For those needing some context on this video, the idea is that RCA's will be the signal out of the head unit run through the vehicle into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run back up to the dash on your own speaker wires and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the vehicle to the door speakers using factory wiring.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring and eliminating the work involved in running your own wires from the amp to each door speaker yourself.
So the amp powered speaker wires needs to be connected to the factory hardness speakers wire and NOT to the aftermarket hardness? What do I do with the aftermarket hardness (speaker wires)? Just seal them off?
This was a way better explanation, I was really confused on why he had two signal outs to an amp, makes sense now lol 😂 I have never installed a system like that, I always ram my own cables from the amp to the aftermarket speakers. Wouldn’t there be a limit of power????
Great tutorial! I was able to successfully wire up my aftermarket amplifier to my stock speaker harness without any issues. Thanks for sharing your expertise and making this process accessible to DIY enthusiasts like myself. Keep up the good work!
When I used to be an electrician, I terminated lots of wiring cabinets and terminal blocks for industrial equipment. I don't remember the brand, but we used a label maker that printed on heat shrinkable sleeves that was designed to slip over the wires. They could be left as is to allow for easier readability or heat shrunk onto the wire.
Been doing this since the advent of factory to aftermarket wiring harnesses. Made life SOOO much easier. Especially when installing aftermarket stereos in leased vehicles. Now, if only they could come up with aftermarket plugs to make bypassing factory amplifiers this simple.....🤔
*The reason why this video has ONE MILLION views is because I (and likely many others) have had to watch this explanation over and over again in order to understand! :-]
Yes this is already my third time watching and I still only stand bits and pieces too much fast talking and not enough simplifying it for beginners but it's still a good video
Great video and great quality work. If someone doesn't understand how to wire it up after watching this video, they probably don't need to be doing it to begin with!
What's missing is other important information.. 1. is your amp built for the gauge size wire coming from the wire harness. 2. Power into the amp can make the difference of the true wattage output. 3. This easy connect method is brilliant if it's applicable to any car amplifier universally without declining performance from the amp.
You are one of the few people ive seen use heat shrink properly (shrink with heat gun) most people use a lighter which is wrong and can damage the heat shrink. You got it right by using the heat gun. CONGRATS!!
So the only thing I was confused on, do you still need to run a power and ground wire to the amp? It may sound dumb, but you didn't show anything about those so I'm just trying to make sure
Thanks for the great detail and time explaining how to manage the wire cutting and splicing. Definitely made me rethink my strategy and taught me how to do this properly and so organized and clean! It raised my expectations of quality, not only when hiring a professional, but with my own work. Beautiful! Thank you!
@@Qualitymobilevideo So if your not hooking the speaker wires directly to the radio anymore and going straight to the ampwith them, Will the radio still be able to "Fade" and "balance" control the speakers?
@@anthonylong5870 Yes. As long as you use separate RCA input cables for the front and back channels, the head unit will be able to fade front-back as well as balance left-right. If you only use one set of RCA input cables and set the amplifier to output on all four speaker outputs (IIRC it's the 2 channel configuration setting), then you will only be able to balance left-right.
this video just saved me a ass load of time not having to wire from the speakers directly to the amp. i can just use the wires already in my truck and run the wires from the factory type adapter to the amp itself. so much easier than running all new speaker wires to the all especially with the pac connectors on each door.. same that was gonna be a real pain in the ass! thanks so much for showing this easier to do shortcut!
Okay am I getting this right. I have to cut the speaker wires coming from my doors to my head unit. Connect the wires coming from my head unit to my amp. Leave the speaker wires coming from door speakers snipped. And plug the RCA's in. How do the speakers get power?
@@fivepointslogisticsinc5239 I figured it out. You need to connect the speaker wires coming from your doors to the amp then the rcas communicate with the headunit. The other way made ZERO sense to me make sense why haha
GREAT VIDEO. This solves a problem I am having with the audio upgrade in my 04 Accord. EXCELLENT attention to detail. Looking forward to your future videos.
Ok I'm confused. I thought speaker wires go from the speakers to the amp and than the rca wires go from the amp to the back of the stereo. Am I missing something
How??? This was probably the best video I’ve seen on how to amp your speakers. If you don’t understand it you should probably just go to an audio professional.
this what i what I was looking for man. Many thanks and bless ya, Everyone try do reviews about amplifier systems long and boring ones where basically they strip off doors, do drilling and new cables wiring . here is so simple,use your car existing wire management and amplifier. Colours matched as mention on your video . All working perfect . You are the star man...subscribed....
So if I’m getting this right say your door speaker connects to the amp by spicing it and connecting it to the prong setup as showing and the RCA cables on the back of the amp connect to the RCAs on the back of the head unit? I think
@@MyDubsack the amp gets the sound signal from the RCA's. Then he's connecting the amps powered speaker wires behind the deck to not have to run new speaker wires
I thought it was looped also, but actually the white harness is an aftermarket factory wiring harness. It connects the black aftermarket radio harness, to your factory car harness which runs to your speakers. 1. Sound from Aftermarket radio to Amp= RCA Preamp outputs 2. Now amplified sound from AMP to Speakers = Spliced Red & Black wires with terminal connectors, to speaker GREY,PURPLE,GREEN ETC. At white harness side. That gets plugged back into factory wiring in Dash. 3. The little black harness comes from radio= Speaker wires cut & blanked off, no longer used for sound.
I was hoping this video was gonna show how to install the speaker wires to the stock wire harness by d-pinning the speaker wire and installing it that way to a factory radio. But if I were to úse a factory radio, I guess I would still need a metra bay harness to connect the speaker wire to a high input connection on an amp and then the amp speaker wire to the harness. Good watching this video!
I had the same point of confusion before about which of the two harnesses you were disconnecting the speaker leads from. I think it was hard to tell which harness was which. You were designating them as aftermarket and Metra. I have to think of it as Aftermarket and Factory or Stock, or it's a little hard to track. Logically, we have to tie the speaker leads to the "stock" harness to get signal to the existing speakers that are all Molexed up and terrifying! As I am just now going to be installing the whole system, head unit, steering wheel control, parking brake disable, aftermarket amp, I will simply follow the logic of not connecting the speaker leads together in the new harness, just clip and heat-shrink the ones from the aftermarket harness and wire the leads into the stock/factory/Metra harness to get the beautiful noise through the existing wiring. Now for the tricky part (hah!). I was able to eBay a factory sub/amp (which my 2005 Focus was not equipped with, though from all the rumors, the wiring exists. If the harness does not really exist, shall i just run one RCA from one of the sub outs of the AVH 1300NEX to the hatch, clip and strip the RCA cable to provide the input. Then T off the remote on and put an inline step-down to keep the amp from popping? All help welcome. I am learning a TON, and gratetful for your work! Hopefully I will only have to do this once. And keep this car forever!
So. 1) Connect the 2 or 4 channel RCA cables from the head-unit to amp. 2) Connect 4 speaker wires, from the amp to the factory harness. 2A) Keep in mind that you have to disconnect the factory harness speaker wires from the Metra harness speaker wires. 2B) You also have to cap (seal) the Metra speaker wires. 2C) Match, then connect the amp speaker wires to the factory harness speaker wires. Connect the other or opposing ends of the speaker wires to the amp. 2D) You’re now “ done “ with the amp to factory speaker wires connection & the head-unit signal to amp connection.
Yes please explain this to me bcuz I have the SCV 3000D... no way in hell that I can run wires from that amp into any factory wires 😝😝😝 what's the wattage limitations please?!?! So only do this with my 4 channel mids and highs amp? Or no bcuz I have the Skar RP 150.4AB ?!?! I'm thinking this won't work either bcuz of too much power. With my equipment I am fricken confused AF 😝😝😝 and pissed at the same time bcuz another day went by with no hook up bcuz I'm not doing anything until I find the right information or video. SUCKS I'M FEININ FO MY BASS LOL ‼️‼️‼️
Excellent video which for me it cleared up the question of do i wire the amp speakers directly to the adaptor or do i splice the factory speaker wires into the Aftermarket adaptor and the speaker wires coming from the amp. I now know this would be the wrong way to wire up the speakers. I just wire the amp speakers directly into the aftermarket speaker wires. Connect 2 RCA plugs into the line in plug of the Subwoofer and take that to the back of my aftermarket radio. Connect the blue send wire. Run the power cable from the battery and ground cable near the amp and wallah the install should be finished and now i can turn on the radio for the 1st time! This is my 1st time doing this kind of installation so im pretty excited!
Awesome video man,thank you. i did have one question,is there any limitations or dos and don'ts when it comes to what kind of amp you can use for this operation? thank you for your time.
This is wonderful I need more videos iam electrician qualified level 3 but I don't how to wiring amplifier thanks sir for this video hellena from Namibia
Man, I just just LOVE the professionalism you put into all your connections! Nothing is coming disconnected from one of YOUR installs! Makes me want to run out and stock up on heat shrink now, and FINALLY learn how to solder at 60 years of age! As for so many viewer comments not really understanding what you just did, I found it quite easy to understand. So I'll try to explain it like an old guy would: If you pull your stereo out of the dash, you will find a plug (some factory decks have 2). If you're lucky enough to have a car with an aftermarket deck (head unit as the pros call them), you're in more luck because they will most like already have a Metra-type (or Scosche or some brand) or harness in between your deck and speakers. You simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash (the end NOT on the side of the harness that go to the deck, and hook the speaker leads from your new amp to those factory wires going up into your dash. What I do on EVERY car audio job I ever do, especially when it's someone else's car, is to FIRST look up the radio wiring diagram (colors) for that specific year, make and model of vehicle FREE on The12Volt's website! I copy them down into my little car audio note book, plus copy them onto a MS Word document to keep on my laptop for future use. So back to this: It's really a simple job! He just made it seem more complicated because he took the time to neatly cut everything (including his fingers a few times I noticed! LOL!), then solder and heat shrink and label everything. I truly believe if he would have just done it like MOST backyard stereo installers, and just crimped wires and connected them a little faster, this video would have been easier to understand. ONE NOTE: when you cut your factory harness wires, make 100% SURE you know exactly which wires are for your speakers before you start cutting! Remember, 1 or more of those wires you could cut will be to constant 12V, another to switched 12V, and another to ground and maybe even illumination/dimmer. So you REALLY need to make sure to cut the correct wires. One way I used to do it, a trick I learned back in the early 80's, was once you narrow down your factory speaker leads but aren't exactly sure which one goes to which speaker? Simply take a C or D battery and strip off a little of the end of each lead. Chances are the wires to each speaker will be CLOSE to the same color, but not always. Anyway, if you take 1 wire and hold it to the bottom of the battery, you can then take each wire one at a time and tap the top of the battery with it. You won't hurt anything, believe me. When you find 2 wires that go the same speaker, you will hear a small pop at one of the speakers and BAM, you found ONE speaker! Tape those 2 leads together and keep doing this until you find the other 4. Sounds cheesy but it works! Especially if you have a wide variety of speaker lead colors like Honda's often do or my current Saturn. OKAY, THAT'S MY 2 CENT COMMENT for now. LOVED this video! But myself, being old and lazy, am going to go a different route to connect my Kenwood KAC-8406 to my factory speakers: I'm going to do the rear-to-front jump trick. Takes less time and less wire. Okay, gotta go read my 2 bibles! s254.photobucket.com/user/Hairball98498/media/Past%20stereo%20stuff/P4080015_zpsb91ddfa1.jpg.html
In the video, he did not "simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash". Instead, he cut and spliced into the Metra adapter (harness) so that the factory speaker wire harness remained intact. When finished the now spliced Metra harness would plug into the factory wire harness.
Of course this help me alot for my 4 chanel amp, When i bought the amp and installation kit yesterday i didn't know where to start so i browse and found this great video and now i know what to do and save me $129.00 at geeksquad so i clear understand how to do this project now than you very much for your great video
What we need to know is how to add an amp to an EXISTING FACTORY STEREO in a modern car/truck. Like the UConnect system in Chrysler cars, they have 6 speakers with two rears and components in the front. Is it as simple as putting an amp between the speakers and head unit, using speaker level inputs, but leaving ALL other connections exactly as they are and thus retaining all functions of the head unit except that the sound is now amplified?
Lmao right it was like a kindergarten class... alright guys copy everything I do and you won’t learn a god dam thing any questions... -billy”I do” -quality mobile “that was a rhetorical question!”
Doesn't matter how many of these types of videos I watch. I continue to learn less and less. No one answers the simple questions that I am looking to have answered.
the idea is to use the wires you already have going to the speakers. i think whats causing the confusion is he doesnt explain that he is wiring from the adapter harness. but just imagine this, when you plug your factory wires into your factory radio with no amp, the radio has an internal amp to weakly power the speakers. so essentially the wires to your speakers already in your car are the outputs to your speakers. in this video, they are teaching us how to leave your factory wires alone, saving you a lot of time and hassle to rerun speaker wires to the speakers in your doors and shit. so, you will need an adapter for your specific vehicle. most of the time you just search your vehichle year and make and youll find the right one, but sometimes you have to find one for the specific model too. now just find a wiring diagram for your cars factory stereo system harness on the internet or better yet, if your adapter harness has instructions its even easier. you plug your adapter into your factory dash harness and now your speaker wires that are already in your car are connected to your adapter harness wires. now just use your wiring diagram or adapter instructions, locate the wires for your speakers, and you can run them straight to your aftermarket amp following the instructions in this video. the idea of this is two benefits: leaving your factory wires alone, and of course, having your speakers powered by a strong amp instead of the weak internal radio amp.
@@AbslutZr I assume you mean from your head unit. well you're amp is gonna need the signal from the head unit so yes. You should be running rcas from your head unit to your amp for the signal or using a hi to low converter if your factory head unit doesn't have rca output. So you will still have all the function the head unit has
@@psyghtseer I have an aftermarket radio with 3 preamp outputs but I only have a mono channel amp. I am not installing a subwoofer but I want to wire 4 speakers to the mono channel amp. No big deal there, but I do want to retain the fade controls so I can kill the back speakers at my leisure. I'm not sure how do this with the components I have on hand. I have this stuff laying around and I'm not in the mood to buy a 2 channel or 4 channel amp.
@@AbslutZr oh I see what you're saying now, my bad. Well with only one channel you won't be able to use the head unit faders. I assume you'd probably be wiring the four speakers in parallel so you might be able to rig some kind of Killswitch on the back speakers...
No, the first thing you need to do is not stand in front of a black background wearing a black tee shirt holding dark/black components. or is it just me.....
@@dantheisen35 Dan, in order to use the fade control from your head unit you will need to have 2 sets of different inputs (2 rca cable pairs) to the amp...one from the front channel outputs of the head unit and one from the rear channel outputs of the head unit.
Factor he just hooked the output from stereo to amp brought the output from amp back up to head unit and hook up to factor wiring harness to speakers. It’s the factor wiring big enough? It should work might be a lot of wires running under dash
So I watched this a few times over and you wired the radios speaker output to amps speaker output????? The radio speaker output should have been the side that was sealed off
i'm thinking the idea is that rca's will be the signal out of the head unit into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run along these wires back up to the dash and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the car to the door speakers.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring..
"Running the amp's output wires to the wires on the adapter harness is how you avoid having to run new speaker wiring throughout the car. That's the bottom side of the triangle in the photo - speaker wires from the amp connect to the speaker wires on the adapter harness. Then that harness plugs into your car." - Crutchfield
@@Keldren. my question is... if you cut the door speaker wires from the headunit and connect the amp to the head unit... how does the specific speaker left snipped know when to function or function at all... through the RCAs?
Still have to run speaker wires. You can either run them from the amp to each individual speak or you have to run them from the amp up into the dash to connect to your factory wires. Either way you still have to run wires espically if the amp is located in the rear of the vehicle. The key is if your going to run 2 sets of rca's to the amp go ahead & add 4 runs of speaker wire with it this way it will be much easier
"How To Without Cutting Factory Wiring" but the first thing you do is cut into the front speaker wiring. I'm lost. Are you cutting into the harness you created? So how do I make that harness? Ugh.
you are right. though typically you would just buy that harness for your specific vehicle. search your vehicle with "stereo wiring harness adapter". in the videos hypothetical harness, he says the white side connects to your car. in your car, when you remove the factory radio, the wires in your cars dash will have a vehicle specific configuration, and your adapter will plug into that. then hopefully your adapter comes with some instructions to make it easier for you, but if not, its okay. you should be able to find wiring diagrams for you cars stereo system online. as long as you can find that, you can match up which wires are going to what on your adapter and then translate the colors. from there, you can follow the videos instructions if youre gonna do it like that. if your car isnt too antique or obscure, you can find adapters like the one in the video that are plug and play without an amp. for my car, the adapter i got plugs into my car and then has a bunch of wires i need to plug into my aftermarket stereo with my own connections and solders.
@@psyghtseer let me get this straight, he basically connects the wires from the amp to the side of the harness that would be plugged into the already existing harness which originally the car speakers and such are connected? And then shrink wrap those that would be protruding from the head unit's side of the harness?
@@wesbank6640 yes. this just enables you to not have to run all new speaker wires to each speaker. it bypasses the speaker outputs from the head unit, but routes the amplified signal from the amp back to the existing speaker wires at the head unit.
@@psyghtseer I greatly appreciate the info bro, seriously, and that's even if I still don't quite understand :- MY ISSUE IS is how do I connect my mid-bass amp to my factory speaker wiring but keep in mind my LC7i LOC is tapped into my factory speaker wires grabbing the signal. Conundrum IMO. I'm so ready to pay someone for the answer,, or.. pay someone to just do it for me already! I've been 8,000 RMS watts of just one powerful sub bass these last 6 months, time to amplify my Skar door speakers if you know what I mean. (Skar DNR w/ Taramps Bass 8K along with another couple grand worth of electrical upgrades in addition to the two-grand I already mentioned), ugh.
I miss the good ole days of the 80's and 90's when you could slap some Rca's in the back of the head unit and lay a run to the trunk and drop a power and ground cable with a remote turn on wire in the trunk and oh yeah some inline fuses and bam...pounding down the block a 1/2 an hour later. These factory radios nowadays have beautiful displays and shitty roll off bass. No RCA's on the back of factory radios totally fricken sucks !!!
I just bought a planet audio it's always two days I still can't figure it out. I even think I burnt a fuse because I didn't unplug the harness so I saw a spark and the radio doesn't turn on .
That's fine and makes sense for the doors but if Im just hooking up my rear deck speakers it would be much faster to go straight from my amp to the speakers so ce they are right there ....right?
02:44 Here you say to cut grey and white near the white connector (on the left) to weld. What I don't understand is, what is happening with the rest of the wires once you weld the ones near the white connector, they must be disabled/not used? This is the part I don't see in the video. Great video btw, helped me a lot!
So the speaker wires going to the amp connects to the speaker wires coming from the factory harness and not the harness that comes the aftermarket head unit?
correct.... Its simple... Think of it like this: instead of hooking up the aftermarket harness adapter(international standard color wires) to your aftermarket radio for it to be powered. You instead hook it up to your 2 or 4 channel amplifier. Basically you can use a product called 9 wire which contains 8 speaker wires(color coded) and 1 turn on wire(blue) which will help you cleanly extend your factory harness to under your seat or to the trunk.
The problem with some new car audio is that the high level signal has bass roll off or even frequency modulation, a built in equalizer, it's something to consider if you're going in this direction. Speaker level is preferable over a LOC but only if the full signal goes thru the wires.
I was confused on the 4ch install you said to cut the wires from the metra harness 2 times. Did you mean cut the actual wires from the vehicles original harness ?
For those needing some context on this video, the idea is that RCA's will be the signal out of the head unit run through the vehicle into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run back up to the dash on your own speaker wires and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the vehicle to the door speakers using factory wiring.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring and eliminating the work involved in running your own wires from the amp to each door speaker yourself.
So the amp powered speaker wires needs to be connected to the factory hardness speakers wire and NOT to the aftermarket hardness? What do I do with the aftermarket hardness (speaker wires)? Just seal them off?
This was a way better explanation, I was really confused on why he had two signal outs to an amp, makes sense now lol 😂 I have never installed a system like that, I always ram my own cables from the amp to the aftermarket speakers. Wouldn’t there be a limit of power????
@@josequezada822 i believe factory speaker wires allow up to 75W per speaker
@@josequezada822 I have the same question unless stock wires don’t limit it enough to matter
@@j.a.3138 So he's actually soldering the wires that goes to the speakers?
Great tutorial! I was able to successfully wire up my aftermarket amplifier to my stock speaker harness without any issues. Thanks for sharing your expertise and making this process accessible to DIY enthusiasts like myself. Keep up the good work!
Glad it helped!
I like the clear heat shrink over the labels idea. Definitely will last longer than bare masking tape.
When I used to be an electrician, I terminated lots of wiring cabinets and terminal blocks for industrial equipment. I don't remember the brand, but we used a label maker that printed on heat shrinkable sleeves that was designed to slip over the wires. They could be left as is to allow for easier readability or heat shrunk onto the wire.
Exactly what I needed when trying how to power my aftermarket speakers with after market amp using OE speaker wire..Awesome 👍🏻👍🏻
Great to hear! 👌
This was the most satisfying wiring video I've ever watched. That was on CLEAN install!
Glad you liked it!
How can I find the amp wiring harness for the Cadillac Escalade EXT 2004 with Bose system
@@timothysheffield1087crutchfield
by far the best tutorial ever ! Manage to save tons of cash running new sets of speaker wire.
Great to hear!
Been doing this since the advent of factory to aftermarket wiring harnesses. Made life SOOO much easier. Especially when installing aftermarket stereos in leased vehicles. Now, if only they could come up with aftermarket plugs to make bypassing factory amplifiers this simple.....🤔
Audiocontrol
Wow...that harness was a masterpiece. 👏🏽
The installers at Best Buy left a shit show behind my radio
Lol sorry to hear
Best informative video I've seen. Very helpful to a beginner such as myself.
Glad it was helpful!
this is the best video on youtube for explaining this. thank you
*The reason why this video has ONE MILLION views is because I (and likely many others) have had to watch this explanation over and over again in order to understand! :-]
facts. a million steps
Yes this is already my third time watching and I still only stand bits and pieces too much fast talking and not enough simplifying it for beginners but it's still a good video
I am a noon at car audio but after this vid I feel pretty knowledgeable. I’ll be installing mine next week
Great video and great quality work. If someone doesn't understand how to wire it up after watching this video, they probably don't need to be doing it to begin with!
Hell Yeah!!
I Love It when it's 'HYPER'thetically setup!!
We have full install videos showing this method. It's easier for people to visualize like this.
What's missing is other important information.. 1. is your amp built for the gauge size wire coming from the wire harness. 2. Power into the amp can make the difference of the true wattage output. 3. This easy connect method is brilliant if it's applicable to any car amplifier universally without declining performance from the amp.
Iam a slow learning dude . You make it simple and fun, and l like that there is no overkill.
👌
Your work is so sharp, so professional!
You are one of the few people ive seen use heat shrink properly (shrink with heat gun) most people use a lighter which is wrong and can damage the heat shrink. You got it right by using the heat gun. CONGRATS!!
Lol thanks!
thanks for making this simple for me.
Stg
So the only thing I was confused on, do you still need to run a power and ground wire to the amp? It may sound dumb, but you didn't show anything about those so I'm just trying to make sure
i used shrink rap for the first time ... I AM A GOD fun to use and very good stuff
I been looking for a video explaining how to do this & you did it so perfectly…. Thank you
Thanks for the great detail and time explaining how to manage the wire cutting and splicing. Definitely made me rethink my strategy and taught me how to do this properly and so organized and clean! It raised my expectations of quality, not only when hiring a professional, but with my own work. Beautiful! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
@@Qualitymobilevideo So if your not hooking the speaker wires directly to the radio anymore and going straight to the ampwith them, Will the radio still be able to "Fade" and "balance" control the speakers?
@@anthonylong5870 No, not at all
@@anthonylong5870 Yes. As long as you use separate RCA input cables for the front and back channels, the head unit will be able to fade front-back as well as balance left-right. If you only use one set of RCA input cables and set the amplifier to output on all four speaker outputs (IIRC it's the 2 channel configuration setting), then you will only be able to balance left-right.
this video just saved me a ass load of time not having to wire from the speakers directly to the amp. i can just use the wires already in my truck and run the wires from the factory type adapter to the amp itself. so much easier than running all new speaker wires to the all especially with the pac connectors on each door.. same that was gonna be a real pain in the ass! thanks so much for showing this easier to do shortcut!
Glad it helped!
Okay am I getting this right.
I have to cut the speaker wires coming from my doors to my head unit.
Connect the wires coming from my head unit to my amp.
Leave the speaker wires coming from door speakers snipped. And plug the RCA's in.
How do the speakers get power?
Right... im guessing u have to also connect the speakers along with the head and amp wires to create a t connection
@@fivepointslogisticsinc5239 I figured it out. You need to connect the speaker wires coming from your doors to the amp then the rcas communicate with the headunit. The other way made ZERO sense to me make sense why haha
@@user-yv3vu1yb2k you basically run the rca, remote wires and that’s it no doors speaker wires to the head unit right?
Took me a couple times to understand. But I get it now. Wasn’t the video just me. Thank you
High quality video and install. Good background music too. ☺️
Yep but I still don't understand lol 😅
Thank you. I saw the clips in the pack and thought this is gonna be annoying to install but good to know I can just chuck them in 👍🏽
5:18 i read in a few places the wire stripe means positive. great.
GREAT VIDEO. This solves a problem I am having with the audio upgrade in my 04 Accord. EXCELLENT attention to detail. Looking forward to your future videos.
Thanks James!
But how much power can the factory speaker wire handle?
Ok I'm confused. I thought speaker wires go from the speakers to the amp and than the rca wires go from the amp to the back of the stereo. Am I missing something
Fine job Lorenz.....Super professional.
Clear and precise information. Just one thing... THE MUSIC IS SO F..ED LOUD! 😂
I literally..... dont know still
I posted an explanation for everyone.
dude same, not one video explains it in easily follow steps
Lmaoo same
Same
How??? This was probably the best video I’ve seen on how to amp your speakers. If you don’t understand it you should probably just go to an audio professional.
this what i what I was looking for man. Many thanks and bless ya, Everyone try do reviews about amplifier systems long and boring ones where basically they strip off doors, do drilling and new cables wiring . here is so simple,use your car existing wire management and amplifier. Colours matched as mention on your video . All working perfect . You are the star man...subscribed....
👌
So if I’m getting this right say your door speaker connects to the amp by spicing it and connecting it to the prong setup as showing and the RCA cables on the back of the amp connect to the RCAs on the back of the head unit? I think
yes that is correct. the rca's from the head unit tell the amp what to play, and the powered amp plays the speakers
give this man a medal. best video on this by far
Thanks Donald!
Why did u go from the amp to the head unit-side from the amp vS going to the side that goes to the actual speaker
because, the point of this video is to avoid running wires to the speakers. you're using the wires already in your cars wiring harness with an adapter
Right,you are not gonna get no sound. I hope he doesn't do installs cause he was wrong
@@MyDubsack the amp gets the sound signal from the RCA's. Then he's connecting the amps powered speaker wires behind the deck to not have to run new speaker wires
Chevydevil9000 but the wires don’t go back to the speakers so he just ran a loop without sound
I thought it was looped also, but actually the white harness is an aftermarket factory wiring harness. It connects the black aftermarket radio harness, to your factory car harness which runs to your speakers.
1. Sound from Aftermarket radio to Amp= RCA Preamp outputs
2. Now amplified sound from AMP to Speakers = Spliced Red & Black wires with terminal connectors, to speaker GREY,PURPLE,GREEN ETC. At white harness side. That gets plugged back into factory wiring in Dash.
3. The little black harness comes from radio= Speaker wires cut & blanked off, no longer used for sound.
I was hoping this video was gonna show how to install the speaker wires to the stock wire harness by d-pinning the speaker wire and installing it that way to a factory radio. But if I were to úse a factory radio, I guess I would still need a metra bay harness to connect the speaker wire to a high input connection on an amp and then the amp speaker wire to the harness. Good watching this video!
I had the same point of confusion before about which of the two harnesses you were disconnecting the speaker leads from. I think it was hard to tell which harness was which. You were designating them as aftermarket and Metra. I have to think of it as Aftermarket and Factory or Stock, or it's a little hard to track. Logically, we have to tie the speaker leads to the "stock" harness to get signal to the existing speakers that are all Molexed up and terrifying! As I am just now going to be installing the whole system, head unit, steering wheel control, parking brake disable, aftermarket amp, I will simply follow the logic of not connecting the speaker leads together in the new harness, just clip and heat-shrink the ones from the aftermarket harness and wire the leads into the stock/factory/Metra harness to get the beautiful noise through the existing wiring. Now for the tricky part (hah!). I was able to eBay a factory sub/amp (which my 2005 Focus was not equipped with, though from all the rumors, the wiring exists. If the harness does not really exist, shall i just run one RCA from one of the sub outs of the AVH 1300NEX to the hatch, clip and strip the RCA cable to provide the input. Then T off the remote on and put an inline step-down to keep the amp from popping? All help welcome. I am learning a TON, and gratetful for your work! Hopefully I will only have to do this once. And keep this car forever!
Tanya Robinson depends on what ohm the sub is and what power output is in comparison to the watts needed to power to sub.
I was confused as well lol stock/ factory would have been better then aftermarket/ metra
So. 1) Connect the 2 or 4 channel RCA cables from the head-unit to amp. 2) Connect 4 speaker wires, from the amp to the factory harness. 2A) Keep in mind that you have to disconnect the factory harness speaker wires from the Metra harness speaker wires. 2B) You also have to cap (seal) the Metra speaker wires. 2C) Match, then connect the amp speaker wires to the factory harness speaker wires. Connect the other or opposing ends of the speaker wires to the amp. 2D) You’re now “ done “ with the amp to factory speaker wires connection & the head-unit signal to amp connection.
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This is the best video on this I have seen. The attention to detail is astonishing. Great job.
Thank you very much
Thank you for this man, I now feel confident enough in tackling this myself saving some money on labour!
Glad it helped! 👌
Very well done. Excellent.
Cool dude. Thanks for the demo. A guy actually told me that for bigger amps not to use the factory wires. That's only for bigger amps
How big is bigger amps?
Yes please explain this to me bcuz I have the SCV 3000D... no way in hell that I can run wires from that amp into any factory wires 😝😝😝 what's the wattage limitations please?!?! So only do this with my 4 channel mids and highs amp? Or no bcuz I have the Skar RP 150.4AB ?!?! I'm thinking this won't work either bcuz of too much power. With my equipment I am fricken confused AF 😝😝😝 and pissed at the same time bcuz another day went by with no hook up bcuz I'm not doing anything until I find the right information or video. SUCKS I'M FEININ FO MY BASS LOL ‼️‼️‼️
@@johnmeek6790long time since but if you are running more than 100w per speaker like doors or 6x9s run new wire.
hey I really bring to understand exactly which harness I am cutting
Excellent video which for me it cleared up the question of do i wire the amp speakers directly to the adaptor or do i splice the factory speaker wires into the Aftermarket adaptor and the speaker wires coming from the amp. I now know this would be the wrong way to wire up the speakers. I just wire the amp speakers directly into the aftermarket speaker wires. Connect 2 RCA plugs into the line in plug of the Subwoofer and take that to the back of my aftermarket radio. Connect the blue send wire. Run the power cable from the battery and ground cable near the amp and wallah the install should be finished and now i can turn on the radio for the 1st time! This is my 1st time doing this kind of installation so im pretty excited!
Awesome video man,thank you. i did have one question,is there any limitations or dos and don'ts when it comes to what kind of amp you can use for this operation? thank you for your time.
Music choice fire. I need a Playlist!
We use epidemic music, you can download the songs there!
You saved your old tape but didn't use it. It probably wasn't worth saving, that second time around usually doesn't stick as good anyways.
This is not the only contradiction in the video.
This is wonderful I need more videos iam electrician qualified level 3 but I don't how to wiring amplifier thanks sir for this video hellena from Namibia
Man, I just just LOVE the professionalism you put into all your connections! Nothing is coming disconnected from one of YOUR installs! Makes me want to run out and stock up on heat shrink now, and FINALLY learn how to solder at 60 years of age! As for so many viewer comments not really understanding what you just did, I found it quite easy to understand. So I'll try to explain it like an old guy would: If you pull your stereo out of the dash, you will find a plug (some factory decks have 2). If you're lucky enough to have a car with an aftermarket deck (head unit as the pros call them), you're in more luck because they will most like already have a Metra-type (or Scosche or some brand) or harness in between your deck and speakers. You simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash (the end NOT on the side of the harness that go to the deck, and hook the speaker leads from your new amp to those factory wires going up into your dash. What I do on EVERY car audio job I ever do, especially when it's someone else's car, is to FIRST look up the radio wiring diagram (colors) for that specific year, make and model of vehicle FREE on The12Volt's website! I copy them down into my little car audio note book, plus copy them onto a MS Word document to keep on my laptop for future use. So back to this: It's really a simple job! He just made it seem more complicated because he took the time to neatly cut everything (including his fingers a few times I noticed! LOL!), then solder and heat shrink and label everything. I truly believe if he would have just done it like MOST backyard stereo installers, and just crimped wires and connected them a little faster, this video would have been easier to understand. ONE NOTE: when you cut your factory harness wires, make 100% SURE you know exactly which wires are for your speakers before you start cutting! Remember, 1 or more of those wires you could cut will be to constant 12V, another to switched 12V, and another to ground and maybe even illumination/dimmer. So you REALLY need to make sure to cut the correct wires. One way I used to do it, a trick I learned back in the early 80's, was once you narrow down your factory speaker leads but aren't exactly sure which one goes to which speaker? Simply take a C or D battery and strip off a little of the end of each lead. Chances are the wires to each speaker will be CLOSE to the same color, but not always. Anyway, if you take 1 wire and hold it to the bottom of the battery, you can then take each wire one at a time and tap the top of the battery with it. You won't hurt anything, believe me. When you find 2 wires that go the same speaker, you will hear a small pop at one of the speakers and BAM, you found ONE speaker! Tape those 2 leads together and keep doing this until you find the other 4. Sounds cheesy but it works! Especially if you have a wide variety of speaker lead colors like Honda's often do or my current Saturn. OKAY, THAT'S MY 2 CENT COMMENT for now. LOVED this video! But myself, being old and lazy, am going to go a different route to connect my Kenwood KAC-8406 to my factory speakers: I'm going to do the rear-to-front jump trick. Takes less time and less wire. Okay, gotta go read my 2 bibles!
s254.photobucket.com/user/Hairball98498/media/Past%20stereo%20stuff/P4080015_zpsb91ddfa1.jpg.html
Thanks Shawn!
Great content, great comment! Thanks Quality Mobile Videos! Thanks Shawn!
In the video, he did not "simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash". Instead, he cut and spliced into the Metra adapter (harness) so that the factory speaker wire harness remained intact. When finished the now spliced Metra harness would plug into the factory wire harness.
Thank you I get what he is doing now. The video ( If never done before ) makes sense.
Of course this help me alot for my 4 chanel amp,
When i bought the amp and installation kit yesterday i didn't know where to start so i browse and found this great video and now i know what to do and save me $129.00 at geeksquad so i clear understand how to do this project now than you very much for your great video
Glad it helped!
Quality Mobile Video yes thank you very much for this helpful video
At first I thought he was connecting the speaker wires from the amp to the HU and leaving the wires to the speaker
Thats exactly what he did, I was wondering "so what goes to the speakers?"
Didn't know I needed this until I seen this
If you go down this route how much power can the factory wires handle before you need to re-wire the whole stereo system?
maybe 200-250 watts max per channel , I'm running a 400w x 4 amp on factory speaker wiring without problems
@@76175256 hi, do you mean 200 - 250 RMS or peak?
@@austinej2785 peak
What we need to know is how to add an amp to an EXISTING FACTORY STEREO in a modern car/truck. Like the UConnect system in Chrysler cars, they have 6 speakers with two rears and components in the front. Is it as simple as putting an amp between the speakers and head unit, using speaker level inputs, but leaving ALL other connections exactly as they are and thus retaining all functions of the head unit except that the sound is now amplified?
Thank you for trying to help me learn, but I leant nothing
I posted an explanation for everyone, hope it helps.
Lol
Me too im sittin here like 😳.
It's called retardation.
Lmao right it was like a kindergarten class... alright guys copy everything I do and you won’t learn a god dam thing any questions...
-billy”I do”
-quality mobile “that was a rhetorical question!”
Nice connection 👌 I'm from India
pliz answer whay dosn'n remote contorl(blue wire) conect to radio
Marko Knežević cuz your too high and sky blues the limit
Good Job... Professional... congratulations.
Thank you very much!
Doesn't matter how many of these types of videos I watch. I continue to learn less and less. No one answers the simple questions that I am looking to have answered.
What question do you need answered?
Could you connect all four speakers to a 2 channel amp?
why do they never show how the wiring goes back to the speakers from the amp? or am i misunderstanding thingS?
the idea is to use the wires you already have going to the speakers. i think whats causing the confusion is he doesnt explain that he is wiring from the adapter harness. but just imagine this, when you plug your factory wires into your factory radio with no amp, the radio has an internal amp to weakly power the speakers. so essentially the wires to your speakers already in your car are the outputs to your speakers. in this video, they are teaching us how to leave your factory wires alone, saving you a lot of time and hassle to rerun speaker wires to the speakers in your doors and shit. so, you will need an adapter for your specific vehicle. most of the time you just search your vehichle year and make and youll find the right one, but sometimes you have to find one for the specific model too. now just find a wiring diagram for your cars factory stereo system harness on the internet or better yet, if your adapter harness has instructions its even easier. you plug your adapter into your factory dash harness and now your speaker wires that are already in your car are connected to your adapter harness wires. now just use your wiring diagram or adapter instructions, locate the wires for your speakers, and you can run them straight to your aftermarket amp following the instructions in this video. the idea of this is two benefits: leaving your factory wires alone, and of course, having your speakers powered by a strong amp instead of the weak internal radio amp.
@@psyghtseer If I wire it that way to a 1 Channel amp will I retain the fade and balance controls?
@@AbslutZr I assume you mean from your head unit. well you're amp is gonna need the signal from the head unit so yes. You should be running rcas from your head unit to your amp for the signal or using a hi to low converter if your factory head unit doesn't have rca output. So you will still have all the function the head unit has
@@psyghtseer I have an aftermarket radio with 3 preamp outputs but I only have a mono channel amp. I am not installing a subwoofer but I want to wire 4 speakers to the mono channel amp. No big deal there, but I do want to retain the fade controls so I can kill the back speakers at my leisure. I'm not sure how do this with the components I have on hand. I have this stuff laying around and I'm not in the mood to buy a 2 channel or 4 channel amp.
@@AbslutZr oh I see what you're saying now, my bad. Well with only one channel you won't be able to use the head unit faders. I assume you'd probably be wiring the four speakers in parallel so you might be able to rig some kind of Killswitch on the back speakers...
Good thing my brother and dad know how to set these things up , I’m lost and confused
Beautiful work!
Do really factory speaker wires can be powered by an 900W amplifier? Would that be a problem of eficiency in the quality of sound? Thanks.
No, the first thing you need to do is not stand in front of a black background wearing a black tee shirt holding dark/black components. or is it just me.....
David T It’s called attention to detail. Great video though.
Table too
lmao blunt but true
I mean… it could of been done better but I think it’s fine. See everything and easy to understand. But my eyes aren’t red and half shut so who knows..
How much magic to make sound come out of amp,,, without sound going in.. do a complete video, jerk.
Excellent soldering and insulating tutorial
:)
I understand a little now. Thanks fo this video !!!!
Great!
Is there a disadvantage in running one set of rca cables to a 4 channel amp when connecting the front and rears?
Yes...you will lose the ability to use the fade control on the head unit.
@@mellowjammer thanks man. Sooo I should just get a rca splitter? Y splitter? Male to two female or vice versa?
@@dantheisen35 Dan, in order to use the fade control from your head unit you will need to have 2 sets of different inputs (2 rca cable pairs) to the amp...one from the front channel outputs of the head unit and one from the rear channel outputs of the head unit.
Idk 🤷🏾♂️ why but this video had me confused and asking so many questions!
Do you connect the speakers to the factor harness or aftermarket harness?
Factor he just hooked the output from stereo to amp brought the output from amp back up to head unit and hook up to factor wiring harness to speakers. It’s the factor wiring big enough? It should work might be a lot of wires running under dash
Clear as mud!!
So I watched this a few times over and you wired the radios speaker output to amps speaker output????? The radio speaker output should have been the side that was sealed off
i'm thinking the idea is that rca's will be the signal out of the head unit into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run along these wires back up to the dash and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the car to the door speakers.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring..
@@Keldren. excellent explanation. Ty
@@Keldren. Bro you just cleared up everything...
"Running the amp's output wires to the wires on the adapter harness is how you avoid having to run new speaker wiring throughout the car. That's the bottom side of the triangle in the photo - speaker wires from the amp connect to the speaker wires on the adapter harness. Then that harness plugs into your car." - Crutchfield
@@Keldren. my question is... if you cut the door speaker wires from the headunit and connect the amp to the head unit... how does the specific speaker left snipped know when to function or function at all... through the RCAs?
This is a great video! I wish there was a high quality video for connecting to an amp to the stock head unit though
Ask and you shall receive! ruclips.net/video/OXn8-8yee5o/видео.html
Very confusing you cut soldered 2 wires where is the other one very frustrated learned nothing
It’s very simple, not confusing at all.
Still have to run speaker wires. You can either run them from the amp to each individual speak or you have to run them from the amp up into the dash to connect to your factory wires. Either way you still have to run wires espically if the amp is located in the rear of the vehicle.
The key is if your going to run 2 sets of rca's to the amp go ahead & add 4 runs of speaker wire with it this way it will be much easier
"How To Without Cutting Factory Wiring" but the first thing you do is cut into the front speaker wiring. I'm lost. Are you cutting into the harness you created? So how do I make that harness? Ugh.
you are right. though typically you would just buy that harness for your specific vehicle. search your vehicle with "stereo wiring harness adapter". in the videos hypothetical harness, he says the white side connects to your car. in your car, when you remove the factory radio, the wires in your cars dash will have a vehicle specific configuration, and your adapter will plug into that. then hopefully your adapter comes with some instructions to make it easier for you, but if not, its okay. you should be able to find wiring diagrams for you cars stereo system online. as long as you can find that, you can match up which wires are going to what on your adapter and then translate the colors. from there, you can follow the videos instructions if youre gonna do it like that. if your car isnt too antique or obscure, you can find adapters like the one in the video that are plug and play without an amp. for my car, the adapter i got plugs into my car and then has a bunch of wires i need to plug into my aftermarket stereo with my own connections and solders.
@@psyghtseer let me get this straight, he basically connects the wires from the amp to the side of the harness that would be plugged into the already existing harness which originally the car speakers and such are connected? And then shrink wrap those that would be protruding from the head unit's side of the harness?
@@wesbank6640 yes. this just enables you to not have to run all new speaker wires to each speaker. it bypasses the speaker outputs from the head unit, but routes the amplified signal from the amp back to the existing speaker wires at the head unit.
@@psyghtseer I greatly appreciate the info bro, seriously, and that's even if I still don't quite understand :- MY ISSUE IS is how do I connect my mid-bass amp to my factory speaker wiring but keep in mind my LC7i LOC is tapped into my factory speaker wires grabbing the signal. Conundrum IMO. I'm so ready to pay someone for the answer,, or.. pay someone to just do it for me already! I've been 8,000 RMS watts of just one powerful sub bass these last 6 months, time to amplify my Skar door speakers if you know what I mean. (Skar DNR w/ Taramps Bass 8K along with another couple grand worth of electrical upgrades in addition to the two-grand I already mentioned), ugh.
@@kyungrix1112 thank you!
I miss the good ole days of the 80's and 90's when you could slap some Rca's in the back of the head unit and lay a run to the trunk and drop a power and ground cable with a remote turn on wire in the trunk and oh yeah some inline fuses and bam...pounding down the block a 1/2 an hour later. These factory radios nowadays have beautiful displays and shitty roll off bass. No RCA's on the back of factory radios totally fricken sucks !!!
How concerned should I be that the existing speaker wires can handle the power?
Everyone knows how to install car audio these days, and everyone have different ideas of how to make a best sound in their cars
All I need to know if if I needed to use rca cables or not since I’ll be hooking up a sub on a separate amp
@@itsjusta2v198 yes u need rca
I just bought a planet audio it's always two days I still can't figure it out. I even think I burnt a fuse because I didn't unplug the harness so I saw a spark and the radio doesn't turn on .
U genius man, university would never teach us this way
just detailed enough to warrant the clip bait, just vague enough so only experts would follow. I like your style Quality Mobile Video. sub'd
Lol thanks!
Awesome video thank you.. ( 4 years later lol)
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Excellent video! Thank you for sharing!
Who the hell has a P touch machine laying around? Looks like I'm gonna have to swipe the one from the office Monday mourning.
Very explanatory video. Top
Suuuuper helpful
Thank you
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Best video I watched
That's fine and makes sense for the doors but if Im just hooking up my rear deck speakers it would be much faster to go straight from my amp to the speakers so ce they are right there ....right?
You do what makes sense to you.
that's was very useful to me, thanks a lot for demonstration.
Good video but saving the tape was the cheapest thing I think ive ever heard in my life 😂😂
😂 why not?
Great video learnt a lot thanks 🙏🏼
Glad it was helpful!
My car doesn't have solid and striped wires in the head unit but just a bunch of random colored ones, how do I figure out what is what
02:44 Here you say to cut grey and white near the white connector (on the left) to weld.
What I don't understand is, what is happening with the rest of the wires once you weld the ones near the white connector, they must be disabled/not used? This is the part I don't see in the video.
Great video btw, helped me a lot!
So the speaker wires going to the amp connects to the speaker wires coming from the factory harness and not the harness that comes the aftermarket head unit?
correct.... Its simple... Think of it like this: instead of hooking up the aftermarket harness adapter(international standard color wires) to your aftermarket radio for it to be powered. You instead hook it up to your 2 or 4 channel amplifier. Basically you can use a product called 9 wire which contains 8 speaker wires(color coded) and 1 turn on wire(blue) which will help you cleanly extend your factory harness to under your seat or to the trunk.
The problem with some new car audio is that the high level signal has bass roll off or even frequency modulation, a built in equalizer, it's something to consider if you're going in this direction. Speaker level is preferable over a LOC but only if the full signal goes thru the wires.
He said as theory.. in real life if you do that you open a can of worms..
I’m having that same problem that you mentioned how can I go about connecting it in a nother way
Now this is how you do a proper install... for the people trying this, I wouldn't try it unless you have some experience. But great video.
Thanks!
I was confused on the 4ch install you said to cut the wires from the metra harness 2 times. Did you mean cut the actual wires from the vehicles original harness ?
What is the time stamp so I can check?