For those needing some context on this video, the idea is that RCA's will be the signal out of the head unit run through the vehicle into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run back up to the dash on your own speaker wires and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the vehicle to the door speakers using factory wiring.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring and eliminating the work involved in running your own wires from the amp to each door speaker yourself.
So the amp powered speaker wires needs to be connected to the factory hardness speakers wire and NOT to the aftermarket hardness? What do I do with the aftermarket hardness (speaker wires)? Just seal them off?
This was a way better explanation, I was really confused on why he had two signal outs to an amp, makes sense now lol 😂 I have never installed a system like that, I always ram my own cables from the amp to the aftermarket speakers. Wouldn’t there be a limit of power????
Man, I just just LOVE the professionalism you put into all your connections! Nothing is coming disconnected from one of YOUR installs! Makes me want to run out and stock up on heat shrink now, and FINALLY learn how to solder at 60 years of age! As for so many viewer comments not really understanding what you just did, I found it quite easy to understand. So I'll try to explain it like an old guy would: If you pull your stereo out of the dash, you will find a plug (some factory decks have 2). If you're lucky enough to have a car with an aftermarket deck (head unit as the pros call them), you're in more luck because they will most like already have a Metra-type (or Scosche or some brand) or harness in between your deck and speakers. You simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash (the end NOT on the side of the harness that go to the deck, and hook the speaker leads from your new amp to those factory wires going up into your dash. What I do on EVERY car audio job I ever do, especially when it's someone else's car, is to FIRST look up the radio wiring diagram (colors) for that specific year, make and model of vehicle FREE on The12Volt's website! I copy them down into my little car audio note book, plus copy them onto a MS Word document to keep on my laptop for future use. So back to this: It's really a simple job! He just made it seem more complicated because he took the time to neatly cut everything (including his fingers a few times I noticed! LOL!), then solder and heat shrink and label everything. I truly believe if he would have just done it like MOST backyard stereo installers, and just crimped wires and connected them a little faster, this video would have been easier to understand. ONE NOTE: when you cut your factory harness wires, make 100% SURE you know exactly which wires are for your speakers before you start cutting! Remember, 1 or more of those wires you could cut will be to constant 12V, another to switched 12V, and another to ground and maybe even illumination/dimmer. So you REALLY need to make sure to cut the correct wires. One way I used to do it, a trick I learned back in the early 80's, was once you narrow down your factory speaker leads but aren't exactly sure which one goes to which speaker? Simply take a C or D battery and strip off a little of the end of each lead. Chances are the wires to each speaker will be CLOSE to the same color, but not always. Anyway, if you take 1 wire and hold it to the bottom of the battery, you can then take each wire one at a time and tap the top of the battery with it. You won't hurt anything, believe me. When you find 2 wires that go the same speaker, you will hear a small pop at one of the speakers and BAM, you found ONE speaker! Tape those 2 leads together and keep doing this until you find the other 4. Sounds cheesy but it works! Especially if you have a wide variety of speaker lead colors like Honda's often do or my current Saturn. OKAY, THAT'S MY 2 CENT COMMENT for now. LOVED this video! But myself, being old and lazy, am going to go a different route to connect my Kenwood KAC-8406 to my factory speakers: I'm going to do the rear-to-front jump trick. Takes less time and less wire. Okay, gotta go read my 2 bibles! s254.photobucket.com/user/Hairball98498/media/Past%20stereo%20stuff/P4080015_zpsb91ddfa1.jpg.html
In the video, he did not "simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash". Instead, he cut and spliced into the Metra adapter (harness) so that the factory speaker wire harness remained intact. When finished the now spliced Metra harness would plug into the factory wire harness.
When I used to be an electrician, I terminated lots of wiring cabinets and terminal blocks for industrial equipment. I don't remember the brand, but we used a label maker that printed on heat shrinkable sleeves that was designed to slip over the wires. They could be left as is to allow for easier readability or heat shrunk onto the wire.
Been doing this since the advent of factory to aftermarket wiring harnesses. Made life SOOO much easier. Especially when installing aftermarket stereos in leased vehicles. Now, if only they could come up with aftermarket plugs to make bypassing factory amplifiers this simple.....🤔
What's missing is other important information.. 1. is your amp built for the gauge size wire coming from the wire harness. 2. Power into the amp can make the difference of the true wattage output. 3. This easy connect method is brilliant if it's applicable to any car amplifier universally without declining performance from the amp.
Okay am I getting this right. I have to cut the speaker wires coming from my doors to my head unit. Connect the wires coming from my head unit to my amp. Leave the speaker wires coming from door speakers snipped. And plug the RCA's in. How do the speakers get power?
@@fivepointslogisticsinc5239 I figured it out. You need to connect the speaker wires coming from your doors to the amp then the rcas communicate with the headunit. The other way made ZERO sense to me make sense why haha
You are one of the few people ive seen use heat shrink properly (shrink with heat gun) most people use a lighter which is wrong and can damage the heat shrink. You got it right by using the heat gun. CONGRATS!!
How??? This was probably the best video I’ve seen on how to amp your speakers. If you don’t understand it you should probably just go to an audio professional.
Excellent video which for me it cleared up the question of do i wire the amp speakers directly to the adaptor or do i splice the factory speaker wires into the Aftermarket adaptor and the speaker wires coming from the amp. I now know this would be the wrong way to wire up the speakers. I just wire the amp speakers directly into the aftermarket speaker wires. Connect 2 RCA plugs into the line in plug of the Subwoofer and take that to the back of my aftermarket radio. Connect the blue send wire. Run the power cable from the battery and ground cable near the amp and wallah the install should be finished and now i can turn on the radio for the 1st time! This is my 1st time doing this kind of installation so im pretty excited!
@@MyDubsack the amp gets the sound signal from the RCA's. Then he's connecting the amps powered speaker wires behind the deck to not have to run new speaker wires
I thought it was looped also, but actually the white harness is an aftermarket factory wiring harness. It connects the black aftermarket radio harness, to your factory car harness which runs to your speakers. 1. Sound from Aftermarket radio to Amp= RCA Preamp outputs 2. Now amplified sound from AMP to Speakers = Spliced Red & Black wires with terminal connectors, to speaker GREY,PURPLE,GREEN ETC. At white harness side. That gets plugged back into factory wiring in Dash. 3. The little black harness comes from radio= Speaker wires cut & blanked off, no longer used for sound.
That's fine and makes sense for the doors but if Im just hooking up my rear deck speakers it would be much faster to go straight from my amp to the speakers so ce they are right there ....right?
So the only thing I was confused on, do you still need to run a power and ground wire to the amp? It may sound dumb, but you didn't show anything about those so I'm just trying to make sure
So if I’m getting this right say your door speaker connects to the amp by spicing it and connecting it to the prong setup as showing and the RCA cables on the back of the amp connect to the RCAs on the back of the head unit? I think
*The reason why this video has ONE MILLION views is because I (and likely many others) have had to watch this explanation over and over again in order to understand! :-]
Yes this is already my third time watching and I still only stand bits and pieces too much fast talking and not enough simplifying it for beginners but it's still a good video
Great video! I hope you have time for a question. I installed 4 new speakers & a Kicker Amp in my 2014 Mustang Base. Keeping the factory am/fm unit. Correctly installed a PAC AOEM-FRD24 Interface Integration so as to run 4 RCA cables to the amp. Wired rear speakers direct and all works. Since I’d prefer not to run new speaker wire through the door molexs; can I utilize the speaker wires in the factory module even it is plugged into the PAC unit ? I’ll be using Posi-Products Speaker Connectors so I will be able to only tap into the wires & not cut. I just don’t want to hurt anything. Thanks for your time.
Very nice work 👌 if i want to install another amp for the rear speakers because i have one but is a 3 channel wich its wired the front speaker and subwoofer the questions is,, can i take +12v from the amp or i should roll another wire from the battery? Forse the second amp thanks
I had the same point of confusion before about which of the two harnesses you were disconnecting the speaker leads from. I think it was hard to tell which harness was which. You were designating them as aftermarket and Metra. I have to think of it as Aftermarket and Factory or Stock, or it's a little hard to track. Logically, we have to tie the speaker leads to the "stock" harness to get signal to the existing speakers that are all Molexed up and terrifying! As I am just now going to be installing the whole system, head unit, steering wheel control, parking brake disable, aftermarket amp, I will simply follow the logic of not connecting the speaker leads together in the new harness, just clip and heat-shrink the ones from the aftermarket harness and wire the leads into the stock/factory/Metra harness to get the beautiful noise through the existing wiring. Now for the tricky part (hah!). I was able to eBay a factory sub/amp (which my 2005 Focus was not equipped with, though from all the rumors, the wiring exists. If the harness does not really exist, shall i just run one RCA from one of the sub outs of the AVH 1300NEX to the hatch, clip and strip the RCA cable to provide the input. Then T off the remote on and put an inline step-down to keep the amp from popping? All help welcome. I am learning a TON, and gratetful for your work! Hopefully I will only have to do this once. And keep this car forever!
It’s going to work only on under 50 rms (watts). But if you have 4 speakers over 50 rms (watts) you need to use 14 gauge wire and 18 gauge wire under 50 rms or from factory wire that came from car.
What we need to know is how to add an amp to an EXISTING FACTORY STEREO in a modern car/truck. Like the UConnect system in Chrysler cars, they have 6 speakers with two rears and components in the front. Is it as simple as putting an amp between the speakers and head unit, using speaker level inputs, but leaving ALL other connections exactly as they are and thus retaining all functions of the head unit except that the sound is now amplified?
Is then possible to do with not running the rca cables? Asking because my radio only has rca's for the sub output. And I'm trying to avoid running all new speaker wire.
Yes, if the head-unit has good full response good sounding outputs and you like it, get yourself a PAC LP7-4. oYou can also do this depending upon your amps, send that high level into the soldered RCA's directly.
No, the first thing you need to do is not stand in front of a black background wearing a black tee shirt holding dark/black components. or is it just me.....
If I have a two-channel head unit, can I use this technique to splice in a couple of extra speakers to the rear? If so, is there anything I need to consider?
@Qualitymobilevideo OK, well my car has a factory fit head unit with tweeters in the dashboard and speakers in the front doors, but nothing in the rear - so maybe it has four channels and I need to add two more if I want rear speakers.
Thanks for the great detail and time explaining how to manage the wire cutting and splicing. Definitely made me rethink my strategy and taught me how to do this properly and so organized and clean! It raised my expectations of quality, not only when hiring a professional, but with my own work. Beautiful! Thank you!
@@Qualitymobilevideo So if your not hooking the speaker wires directly to the radio anymore and going straight to the ampwith them, Will the radio still be able to "Fade" and "balance" control the speakers?
@@anthonylong5870 Yes. As long as you use separate RCA input cables for the front and back channels, the head unit will be able to fade front-back as well as balance left-right. If you only use one set of RCA input cables and set the amplifier to output on all four speaker outputs (IIRC it's the 2 channel configuration setting), then you will only be able to balance left-right.
Trying to amp the speakers in my 14 f150, keeping the stock head unit. Could I use four wires from lf and rf to the amp from the factory wiring harness then use 9 wire from the amp to go back up to the head unit and connect all 4 speakers and then insulate the other 4 wires which would be dangling from the stock harness?
You could use just a two channel LOC and use the 2 channel switch on the amp to run all four inputs. You will need to test the outputs of the factory radio to make sure they are full range.
the idea is to use the wires you already have going to the speakers. i think whats causing the confusion is he doesnt explain that he is wiring from the adapter harness. but just imagine this, when you plug your factory wires into your factory radio with no amp, the radio has an internal amp to weakly power the speakers. so essentially the wires to your speakers already in your car are the outputs to your speakers. in this video, they are teaching us how to leave your factory wires alone, saving you a lot of time and hassle to rerun speaker wires to the speakers in your doors and shit. so, you will need an adapter for your specific vehicle. most of the time you just search your vehichle year and make and youll find the right one, but sometimes you have to find one for the specific model too. now just find a wiring diagram for your cars factory stereo system harness on the internet or better yet, if your adapter harness has instructions its even easier. you plug your adapter into your factory dash harness and now your speaker wires that are already in your car are connected to your adapter harness wires. now just use your wiring diagram or adapter instructions, locate the wires for your speakers, and you can run them straight to your aftermarket amp following the instructions in this video. the idea of this is two benefits: leaving your factory wires alone, and of course, having your speakers powered by a strong amp instead of the weak internal radio amp.
@@AbslutZr I assume you mean from your head unit. well you're amp is gonna need the signal from the head unit so yes. You should be running rcas from your head unit to your amp for the signal or using a hi to low converter if your factory head unit doesn't have rca output. So you will still have all the function the head unit has
@@psyghtseer I have an aftermarket radio with 3 preamp outputs but I only have a mono channel amp. I am not installing a subwoofer but I want to wire 4 speakers to the mono channel amp. No big deal there, but I do want to retain the fade controls so I can kill the back speakers at my leisure. I'm not sure how do this with the components I have on hand. I have this stuff laying around and I'm not in the mood to buy a 2 channel or 4 channel amp.
@@AbslutZr oh I see what you're saying now, my bad. Well with only one channel you won't be able to use the head unit faders. I assume you'd probably be wiring the four speakers in parallel so you might be able to rig some kind of Killswitch on the back speakers...
Thank you for the video!!! my question is do you use anything to put between the radio and input towards the amp? Because you got to run two cables of this nine wires correct? So you caught the speaker wires on the radio get the nine wire to the end and then the output of the amp to the speakers right???... I appreciate your time in advance!!
Great video and great quality work. If someone doesn't understand how to wire it up after watching this video, they probably don't need to be doing it to begin with!
Ok I'm confused. I thought speaker wires go from the speakers to the amp and than the rca wires go from the amp to the back of the stereo. Am I missing something
Awesome video man,thank you. i did have one question,is there any limitations or dos and don'ts when it comes to what kind of amp you can use for this operation? thank you for your time.
I was confused on the 4ch install you said to cut the wires from the metra harness 2 times. Did you mean cut the actual wires from the vehicles original harness ?
this video just saved me a ass load of time not having to wire from the speakers directly to the amp. i can just use the wires already in my truck and run the wires from the factory type adapter to the amp itself. so much easier than running all new speaker wires to the all especially with the pac connectors on each door.. same that was gonna be a real pain in the ass! thanks so much for showing this easier to do shortcut!
Lmao right it was like a kindergarten class... alright guys copy everything I do and you won’t learn a god dam thing any questions... -billy”I do” -quality mobile “that was a rhetorical question!”
RCA's out of the head unit to the amp. Speaker wires out of the amp back to the harness that connects to the vehicles wiring. Then you're using the factory speaker wires from there to each speaker, so you don't have to run new wires through the doors.
Stefan Williams Correct. The whole idea is to drive the speakers with more clean power than the head unit can provide. So you don't even use the head unit's speaker outputs, just the RCAs to get signal to the amp. I've got a small Clarion 4 channel amp (50x4) wired this way and it sounds way better than it did when I had the speakers powered off the head unit.
I feel like I'm missing something. How are the speakers getting any signal from the receiver if we cut them off from the harness and putting it into the amp wires? It's getting power and sending it back to the receiver but then how is it getting to the speakers?
This presumes you are using an aftermarket amp and headunit, you can do this with a stock headunit but you need to run the speaker level signals to the amp instead of RCA's
GREAT VIDEO. This solves a problem I am having with the audio upgrade in my 04 Accord. EXCELLENT attention to detail. Looking forward to your future videos.
@@dantheisen35 Dan, in order to use the fade control from your head unit you will need to have 2 sets of different inputs (2 rca cable pairs) to the amp...one from the front channel outputs of the head unit and one from the rear channel outputs of the head unit.
02:44 Here you say to cut grey and white near the white connector (on the left) to weld. What I don't understand is, what is happening with the rest of the wires once you weld the ones near the white connector, they must be disabled/not used? This is the part I don't see in the video. Great video btw, helped me a lot!
Factor he just hooked the output from stereo to amp brought the output from amp back up to head unit and hook up to factor wiring harness to speakers. It’s the factor wiring big enough? It should work might be a lot of wires running under dash
5 лет назад+2
I'm confused! You wired the speaker output wires from the head unit to the speaker output connections on the amp? Should it have not been, speakers wires out from the head unit to speaker level input on the amp? Then, the speaker output connectors going to the speakers?
He bypassed the speaker outputs from the head unit. The RCA cables supply the signal to the amp which then gets output to the speakers at the car side of the adapter harness.
So basically you just eliminate the head unit speaker wire connections and connect wire from the after market quick connect harness speaker wire outputs, then to the amplifier, correct?
How far away is that Amp supposedly gonna be sitting from the head unit ? About a foot Max ? Great Video but I wish you'd explain that most aftermarket Amps sit pretty far away from the head unit. Like under a seat or whatever. That Amp is a little too big to sit under the dash imo. Am I wrong ?
@@Qualitymobilevideo Most experienced people know that the Amp will be sitting somewhere other than under the dash but somebody giving it a go for the first time in their life would be confused. Especially when they realize just how long some of the wires, RCA jacks, etc. will actually be. Like I said it's a great video and I'm not trying to be an Asshole. I was just stating a fact for the newer, younger Guys or Gals. Either way, it's no big deal.
I don't understand how it goes to the speakers from the Amp, to me it seemed like, Amp to wire harness plug back into deck, or did I miss understand something. Your workmanship is great 👍
The car audio set up with amplifier begins with stereo + amp + speakers..Car amplifiers are built 3 wiring stations. 2 inputs, and 1 output station. Inputs consist of 3 wires to power the amp. Inputs consist commonly 2 - 4 RCA jacks connections from car stereo to the amp. Outputs will be your speaker wires. When adding an amp to your car audio system it usually takes a little planning due to specifications of the amplifier used in audio system.
I noticed that the amp output to the speakers is running back into the head unit which is confusing. Why would the amp output go back into the head unit and not directly to the speakers? I have a head unit with six channels of preamp outputs which I was going to run four RCAs (LF, RF, LR, RR) to the RCA inputs on a four channel amp. I was going to run the amp outputs directly to the speakers, not back into the head unit. Is this not correct?
@@Qualitymobilevideo Okay... I think I have it figured out. My confusion was orienting your example harness. I assume that the large white connector is plugging into the original factory harness and the large black connector is plugging into the aftermarket head unit. Is this correct?
"How To Without Cutting Factory Wiring" but the first thing you do is cut into the front speaker wiring. I'm lost. Are you cutting into the harness you created? So how do I make that harness? Ugh.
you are right. though typically you would just buy that harness for your specific vehicle. search your vehicle with "stereo wiring harness adapter". in the videos hypothetical harness, he says the white side connects to your car. in your car, when you remove the factory radio, the wires in your cars dash will have a vehicle specific configuration, and your adapter will plug into that. then hopefully your adapter comes with some instructions to make it easier for you, but if not, its okay. you should be able to find wiring diagrams for you cars stereo system online. as long as you can find that, you can match up which wires are going to what on your adapter and then translate the colors. from there, you can follow the videos instructions if youre gonna do it like that. if your car isnt too antique or obscure, you can find adapters like the one in the video that are plug and play without an amp. for my car, the adapter i got plugs into my car and then has a bunch of wires i need to plug into my aftermarket stereo with my own connections and solders.
@@psyghtseer let me get this straight, he basically connects the wires from the amp to the side of the harness that would be plugged into the already existing harness which originally the car speakers and such are connected? And then shrink wrap those that would be protruding from the head unit's side of the harness?
@@wesbank6640 yes. this just enables you to not have to run all new speaker wires to each speaker. it bypasses the speaker outputs from the head unit, but routes the amplified signal from the amp back to the existing speaker wires at the head unit.
@@psyghtseer I greatly appreciate the info bro, seriously, and that's even if I still don't quite understand :- MY ISSUE IS is how do I connect my mid-bass amp to my factory speaker wiring but keep in mind my LC7i LOC is tapped into my factory speaker wires grabbing the signal. Conundrum IMO. I'm so ready to pay someone for the answer,, or.. pay someone to just do it for me already! I've been 8,000 RMS watts of just one powerful sub bass these last 6 months, time to amplify my Skar door speakers if you know what I mean. (Skar DNR w/ Taramps Bass 8K along with another couple grand worth of electrical upgrades in addition to the two-grand I already mentioned), ugh.
So I watched this a few times over and you wired the radios speaker output to amps speaker output????? The radio speaker output should have been the side that was sealed off
i'm thinking the idea is that rca's will be the signal out of the head unit into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run along these wires back up to the dash and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the car to the door speakers.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring..
"Running the amp's output wires to the wires on the adapter harness is how you avoid having to run new speaker wiring throughout the car. That's the bottom side of the triangle in the photo - speaker wires from the amp connect to the speaker wires on the adapter harness. Then that harness plugs into your car." - Crutchfield
@@Keldren. my question is... if you cut the door speaker wires from the headunit and connect the amp to the head unit... how does the specific speaker left snipped know when to function or function at all... through the RCAs?
So I already have an amplifier, subwoofer and aftermarket head unit, and I want to Install a second 4 channel amp for all four of my door speakers. I have a few questions about wiring it up. 1. Would it be easier to cut the speaker wires from the radio like you did and run them to the amp. 2. Can I use just one pair or RCA cables to send signal to both front and rear? 3. If yes (from question 2) what amp would have the switch for 4 and 2 channels? 4. Can I make a "T" connection into my existing remote wire to send signal to the second amp. 5. Would simply getting a 2 channel amp and bridging the front and rear be simpler since I'd only have to use one RCA? I'm a beginner with this kind of thing so I'm sorry if I'm difficult to understand. I really just want more oomf in my door speakers since they can handle around 100rms according to the box lol
Dakota 1: in my opinion i like running brand new wire cause i know what im looking at 2: yes you can 3:almost every 4 channel amp can do this, i prefer using the rockford fosgate p400.4 its 100 watts rms per channel at 4ohm 4:if you already have an amp installed just shove a second wire into the screw hole at the first amp or if you dont then make a t connection or if you have an aftermarket deck the deck should have either an amp turn on or a power antenna wire, its the same thing either way 5:NO, this will screw with you impedance get a 4 channel amp, remeber this you can always go bigger and get smaller heres an example: you can get a 4 channel and bridge it down to 2 speakers (if the amp is bridgeable) but DO NOT get a 2 channel amp and hook up 4 speaker unless your amp is rated for a certain ohm rating and is over powered cuz if you get a 200.2 amp your only running 50 watts rms to each speaker with 4 speaker, in hindsight 4 channel is easier and the amps today there almost the same size. Hope this helps
Would there be any interference problem if I lay the amp input wires side by side with the amp speaker output wires and the 12v power wire together? Meaning I bundle them all up.
No bundle up. I would suggest seperating the the power supply wires(+ - rem.) On one side and the audio cables (rca LF RF LR RR) on the other. 2 seperate bundle ups, power and audio
Doesn't matter how many of these types of videos I watch. I continue to learn less and less. No one answers the simple questions that I am looking to have answered.
@qualitymobilevideo I'm a complete beginner and trying to learn. All my speakers went out but the radio is still working (I hooked up an extra speaker directly to the radio and sound came out). I checked fuses and wiring, so I'm assuming it is the amp. My question is this, in this video, are you installing a new amp and creating a new route for the radio signal to go through in order to produce sound in the speakers while also leaving the factory amp in place to handle any other functions it currently does (I think my factory amp has at least the rear brake lights running through it)?
Correct me if I’m wrong and not sure if you mentioned it, but doesn’t the amp need a power source? Shouldn’t there be a power wire running from the battery and a ground wire?
I just bought a planet audio it's always two days I still can't figure it out. I even think I burnt a fuse because I didn't unplug the harness so I saw a spark and the radio doesn't turn on .
I currently have the factory radio harness connected to the aftermarket Metra adapter harness that is connected to my pioneer head unit harness. Now that I want to add the amplifier I am slightly confused as to which harness the speaker output from the amplifier needs to tap into. Factory Harness, Metra Harness, or Pioneer Head Unit Harness? Thank you in advance.
How would you go about doing this if you had to add a line output converter? Also would I need two converters? One for the front two speakers and one for the rear.
Yes please explain this to me bcuz I have the SCV 3000D... no way in hell that I can run wires from that amp into any factory wires 😝😝😝 what's the wattage limitations please?!?! So only do this with my 4 channel mids and highs amp? Or no bcuz I have the Skar RP 150.4AB ?!?! I'm thinking this won't work either bcuz of too much power. With my equipment I am fricken confused AF 😝😝😝 and pissed at the same time bcuz another day went by with no hook up bcuz I'm not doing anything until I find the right information or video. SUCKS I'M FEININ FO MY BASS LOL ‼️‼️‼️
Hey I got a skar dual 12 inch subwoofers 2400 watts and a 2000 watt skar amp what's the best amp wiring kit I should use and do I have to do the big 3 or is there another way to save money watch your channel all the type and would love to hear some feedback from you if you could help me out don't want to buy the wrong thing
Without model number, arbitrary output numbers don’t really mean anything. Rules of thumb on current consumption, Class AB 50-60% efficient, Class D 70-80%. Volt x amps = watts, calculate your true RMS output, wire length with your max current consumption and you can see what wire you need.
So i use this same 2 channel kenwood amp and hook up to 2 6.5 they barely have any volume coming out of them and the bass is higher than words but still with the volume all up and amp up they sound like volume is at a 2. When its at a 30. I have 2 of same 6.5 to head unit and they sound great. Whats the deal. The amp worked great on the sub
What im curious about is isnt the factory amplifier hooked up to the speakers.. and then you hook up an aftermarket amplifier to the speakers as well. Wouldnt that be like sending power out to each amp..
I just have a question when I run eight speaker wires and one amp turn on wire and make the cut am I routing the nine wires the way of the aftermarket head unit or the way of the car factory wires??. And obviously with the amp turn on wire will need need to be made if you have a factory installed amp or power antenna correct which I don't so I will just cut it and heat shrink the other side off.
I thought about getting a Metra female harness and factory male harness from a junk yard. This would allow me to use the factory radio and factory wiring to power an amp and aftermarket door speakers. I'm just trying to decide if I want to keep the factory radio or upgrade to an aftermarket one. I've also got a Mopar subwoofer that hides behind the factory trim panel. I'm also trying to decide if I should get a new subwoofer speaker and run new wiring to the subwoofer. I'm not going for a super loud system that other people can hear at stop lights. I'm just going for something that sounds like a good pair of headphones.
I have a i905 alpine head unit with rca’s running to the R2-A60F 4 channel amplifier and a R2-S653 set of component speakers, do I run all the speaker cables to the cross over , as in just one set of speaker cables from the amp to the cross overs and then wire all the speakers from the crossover, if so do I need to bridge the cables from the amp to the crossover , as it’s a 4 channel amp,if so what size wiring will suit it ,or should I just have the subs from the component speakers wired directly from amp to the speakers and run another speaker to the crossover feeding the mid and the tweeter .Please Help
For those needing some context on this video, the idea is that RCA's will be the signal out of the head unit run through the vehicle into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run back up to the dash on your own speaker wires and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the vehicle to the door speakers using factory wiring.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring and eliminating the work involved in running your own wires from the amp to each door speaker yourself.
So the amp powered speaker wires needs to be connected to the factory hardness speakers wire and NOT to the aftermarket hardness? What do I do with the aftermarket hardness (speaker wires)? Just seal them off?
This was a way better explanation, I was really confused on why he had two signal outs to an amp, makes sense now lol 😂 I have never installed a system like that, I always ram my own cables from the amp to the aftermarket speakers. Wouldn’t there be a limit of power????
@@josequezada822 i believe factory speaker wires allow up to 75W per speaker
@@josequezada822 I have the same question unless stock wires don’t limit it enough to matter
@@j.a.3138 So he's actually soldering the wires that goes to the speakers?
Man, I just just LOVE the professionalism you put into all your connections! Nothing is coming disconnected from one of YOUR installs! Makes me want to run out and stock up on heat shrink now, and FINALLY learn how to solder at 60 years of age! As for so many viewer comments not really understanding what you just did, I found it quite easy to understand. So I'll try to explain it like an old guy would: If you pull your stereo out of the dash, you will find a plug (some factory decks have 2). If you're lucky enough to have a car with an aftermarket deck (head unit as the pros call them), you're in more luck because they will most like already have a Metra-type (or Scosche or some brand) or harness in between your deck and speakers. You simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash (the end NOT on the side of the harness that go to the deck, and hook the speaker leads from your new amp to those factory wires going up into your dash. What I do on EVERY car audio job I ever do, especially when it's someone else's car, is to FIRST look up the radio wiring diagram (colors) for that specific year, make and model of vehicle FREE on The12Volt's website! I copy them down into my little car audio note book, plus copy them onto a MS Word document to keep on my laptop for future use. So back to this: It's really a simple job! He just made it seem more complicated because he took the time to neatly cut everything (including his fingers a few times I noticed! LOL!), then solder and heat shrink and label everything. I truly believe if he would have just done it like MOST backyard stereo installers, and just crimped wires and connected them a little faster, this video would have been easier to understand. ONE NOTE: when you cut your factory harness wires, make 100% SURE you know exactly which wires are for your speakers before you start cutting! Remember, 1 or more of those wires you could cut will be to constant 12V, another to switched 12V, and another to ground and maybe even illumination/dimmer. So you REALLY need to make sure to cut the correct wires. One way I used to do it, a trick I learned back in the early 80's, was once you narrow down your factory speaker leads but aren't exactly sure which one goes to which speaker? Simply take a C or D battery and strip off a little of the end of each lead. Chances are the wires to each speaker will be CLOSE to the same color, but not always. Anyway, if you take 1 wire and hold it to the bottom of the battery, you can then take each wire one at a time and tap the top of the battery with it. You won't hurt anything, believe me. When you find 2 wires that go the same speaker, you will hear a small pop at one of the speakers and BAM, you found ONE speaker! Tape those 2 leads together and keep doing this until you find the other 4. Sounds cheesy but it works! Especially if you have a wide variety of speaker lead colors like Honda's often do or my current Saturn. OKAY, THAT'S MY 2 CENT COMMENT for now. LOVED this video! But myself, being old and lazy, am going to go a different route to connect my Kenwood KAC-8406 to my factory speakers: I'm going to do the rear-to-front jump trick. Takes less time and less wire. Okay, gotta go read my 2 bibles!
s254.photobucket.com/user/Hairball98498/media/Past%20stereo%20stuff/P4080015_zpsb91ddfa1.jpg.html
Thanks Shawn!
Great content, great comment! Thanks Quality Mobile Videos! Thanks Shawn!
In the video, he did not "simply cut the factory speaker wires that go up into your dash". Instead, he cut and spliced into the Metra adapter (harness) so that the factory speaker wire harness remained intact. When finished the now spliced Metra harness would plug into the factory wire harness.
Thank you I get what he is doing now. The video ( If never done before ) makes sense.
I like the clear heat shrink over the labels idea. Definitely will last longer than bare masking tape.
When I used to be an electrician, I terminated lots of wiring cabinets and terminal blocks for industrial equipment. I don't remember the brand, but we used a label maker that printed on heat shrinkable sleeves that was designed to slip over the wires. They could be left as is to allow for easier readability or heat shrunk onto the wire.
Been doing this since the advent of factory to aftermarket wiring harnesses. Made life SOOO much easier. Especially when installing aftermarket stereos in leased vehicles. Now, if only they could come up with aftermarket plugs to make bypassing factory amplifiers this simple.....🤔
Audiocontrol
This was the most satisfying wiring video I've ever watched. That was on CLEAN install!
Glad you liked it!
How can I find the amp wiring harness for the Cadillac Escalade EXT 2004 with Bose system
@@timothysheffield1087crutchfield
Exactly what I needed when trying how to power my aftermarket speakers with after market amp using OE speaker wire..Awesome 👍🏻👍🏻
Great to hear! 👌
What's missing is other important information.. 1. is your amp built for the gauge size wire coming from the wire harness. 2. Power into the amp can make the difference of the true wattage output. 3. This easy connect method is brilliant if it's applicable to any car amplifier universally without declining performance from the amp.
by far the best tutorial ever ! Manage to save tons of cash running new sets of speaker wire.
Great to hear!
Okay am I getting this right.
I have to cut the speaker wires coming from my doors to my head unit.
Connect the wires coming from my head unit to my amp.
Leave the speaker wires coming from door speakers snipped. And plug the RCA's in.
How do the speakers get power?
Right... im guessing u have to also connect the speakers along with the head and amp wires to create a t connection
@@fivepointslogisticsinc5239 I figured it out. You need to connect the speaker wires coming from your doors to the amp then the rcas communicate with the headunit. The other way made ZERO sense to me make sense why haha
@@user-yv3vu1yb2k you basically run the rca, remote wires and that’s it no doors speaker wires to the head unit right?
You are one of the few people ive seen use heat shrink properly (shrink with heat gun) most people use a lighter which is wrong and can damage the heat shrink. You got it right by using the heat gun. CONGRATS!!
Lol thanks!
I literally..... dont know still
I posted an explanation for everyone.
dude same, not one video explains it in easily follow steps
Lmaoo same
Same
How??? This was probably the best video I’ve seen on how to amp your speakers. If you don’t understand it you should probably just go to an audio professional.
Excellent video which for me it cleared up the question of do i wire the amp speakers directly to the adaptor or do i splice the factory speaker wires into the Aftermarket adaptor and the speaker wires coming from the amp. I now know this would be the wrong way to wire up the speakers. I just wire the amp speakers directly into the aftermarket speaker wires. Connect 2 RCA plugs into the line in plug of the Subwoofer and take that to the back of my aftermarket radio. Connect the blue send wire. Run the power cable from the battery and ground cable near the amp and wallah the install should be finished and now i can turn on the radio for the 1st time! This is my 1st time doing this kind of installation so im pretty excited!
Wow...that harness was a masterpiece. 👏🏽
The installers at Best Buy left a shit show behind my radio
Lol sorry to hear
this is the best video on youtube for explaining this. thank you
5:18 i read in a few places the wire stripe means positive. great.
What if the factory radio doesn't have RCA?
Why did u go from the amp to the head unit-side from the amp vS going to the side that goes to the actual speaker
because, the point of this video is to avoid running wires to the speakers. you're using the wires already in your cars wiring harness with an adapter
Right,you are not gonna get no sound. I hope he doesn't do installs cause he was wrong
@@MyDubsack the amp gets the sound signal from the RCA's. Then he's connecting the amps powered speaker wires behind the deck to not have to run new speaker wires
Chevydevil9000 but the wires don’t go back to the speakers so he just ran a loop without sound
I thought it was looped also, but actually the white harness is an aftermarket factory wiring harness. It connects the black aftermarket radio harness, to your factory car harness which runs to your speakers.
1. Sound from Aftermarket radio to Amp= RCA Preamp outputs
2. Now amplified sound from AMP to Speakers = Spliced Red & Black wires with terminal connectors, to speaker GREY,PURPLE,GREEN ETC. At white harness side. That gets plugged back into factory wiring in Dash.
3. The little black harness comes from radio= Speaker wires cut & blanked off, no longer used for sound.
That's fine and makes sense for the doors but if Im just hooking up my rear deck speakers it would be much faster to go straight from my amp to the speakers so ce they are right there ....right?
You do what makes sense to you.
Best informative video I've seen. Very helpful to a beginner such as myself.
Glad it was helpful!
So the only thing I was confused on, do you still need to run a power and ground wire to the amp? It may sound dumb, but you didn't show anything about those so I'm just trying to make sure
So if I’m getting this right say your door speaker connects to the amp by spicing it and connecting it to the prong setup as showing and the RCA cables on the back of the amp connect to the RCAs on the back of the head unit? I think
yes that is correct. the rca's from the head unit tell the amp what to play, and the powered amp plays the speakers
I been looking for a video explaining how to do this & you did it so perfectly…. Thank you
*The reason why this video has ONE MILLION views is because I (and likely many others) have had to watch this explanation over and over again in order to understand! :-]
facts. a million steps
Yes this is already my third time watching and I still only stand bits and pieces too much fast talking and not enough simplifying it for beginners but it's still a good video
Great video! I hope you have time for a question. I installed 4 new speakers & a Kicker Amp in my 2014 Mustang Base. Keeping the factory am/fm unit. Correctly installed a PAC AOEM-FRD24 Interface Integration so as to run 4 RCA cables to the amp. Wired rear speakers direct and all works. Since I’d prefer not to run new speaker wire through the door molexs; can I utilize the speaker wires in the factory module even it is plugged into the PAC unit ? I’ll be using Posi-Products Speaker Connectors so I will be able to only tap into the wires & not cut. I just don’t want to hurt anything. Thanks for your time.
But how much power can the factory speaker wire handle?
Very nice work 👌 if i want to install another amp for the rear speakers because i have one but is a 3 channel wich its wired the front speaker and subwoofer the questions is,, can i take +12v from the amp or i should roll another wire from the battery? Forse the second amp thanks
You will want to run another 12 volt power wire to the 2nd amp or run a larger main cable and do a fuse distribution.
@@Qualitymobilevideo thanks
I had the same point of confusion before about which of the two harnesses you were disconnecting the speaker leads from. I think it was hard to tell which harness was which. You were designating them as aftermarket and Metra. I have to think of it as Aftermarket and Factory or Stock, or it's a little hard to track. Logically, we have to tie the speaker leads to the "stock" harness to get signal to the existing speakers that are all Molexed up and terrifying! As I am just now going to be installing the whole system, head unit, steering wheel control, parking brake disable, aftermarket amp, I will simply follow the logic of not connecting the speaker leads together in the new harness, just clip and heat-shrink the ones from the aftermarket harness and wire the leads into the stock/factory/Metra harness to get the beautiful noise through the existing wiring. Now for the tricky part (hah!). I was able to eBay a factory sub/amp (which my 2005 Focus was not equipped with, though from all the rumors, the wiring exists. If the harness does not really exist, shall i just run one RCA from one of the sub outs of the AVH 1300NEX to the hatch, clip and strip the RCA cable to provide the input. Then T off the remote on and put an inline step-down to keep the amp from popping? All help welcome. I am learning a TON, and gratetful for your work! Hopefully I will only have to do this once. And keep this car forever!
Tanya Robinson depends on what ohm the sub is and what power output is in comparison to the watts needed to power to sub.
I was confused as well lol stock/ factory would have been better then aftermarket/ metra
I am a noon at car audio but after this vid I feel pretty knowledgeable. I’ll be installing mine next week
You saved your old tape but didn't use it. It probably wasn't worth saving, that second time around usually doesn't stick as good anyways.
This is not the only contradiction in the video.
Hell Yeah!!
I Love It when it's 'HYPER'thetically setup!!
We have full install videos showing this method. It's easier for people to visualize like this.
It’s going to work only on under 50 rms (watts). But if you have 4 speakers over 50 rms (watts) you need to use 14 gauge wire and 18 gauge wire under 50 rms or from factory wire that came from car.
What we need to know is how to add an amp to an EXISTING FACTORY STEREO in a modern car/truck. Like the UConnect system in Chrysler cars, they have 6 speakers with two rears and components in the front. Is it as simple as putting an amp between the speakers and head unit, using speaker level inputs, but leaving ALL other connections exactly as they are and thus retaining all functions of the head unit except that the sound is now amplified?
Your work is so sharp, so professional!
Is then possible to do with not running the rca cables? Asking because my radio only has rca's for the sub output. And I'm trying to avoid running all new speaker wire.
Yes, if the head-unit has good full response good sounding outputs and you like it, get yourself a PAC LP7-4. oYou can also do this depending upon your amps, send that high level into the soldered RCA's directly.
No, the first thing you need to do is not stand in front of a black background wearing a black tee shirt holding dark/black components. or is it just me.....
David T It’s called attention to detail. Great video though.
Table too
lmao blunt but true
I mean… it could of been done better but I think it’s fine. See everything and easy to understand. But my eyes aren’t red and half shut so who knows..
How much magic to make sound come out of amp,,, without sound going in.. do a complete video, jerk.
If I have a two-channel head unit, can I use this technique to splice in a couple of extra speakers to the rear? If so, is there anything I need to consider?
I don't know of a two channel headunit.
@Qualitymobilevideo OK, well my car has a factory fit head unit with tweeters in the dashboard and speakers in the front doors, but nothing in the rear - so maybe it has four channels and I need to add two more if I want rear speakers.
Thanks for the great detail and time explaining how to manage the wire cutting and splicing. Definitely made me rethink my strategy and taught me how to do this properly and so organized and clean! It raised my expectations of quality, not only when hiring a professional, but with my own work. Beautiful! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
@@Qualitymobilevideo So if your not hooking the speaker wires directly to the radio anymore and going straight to the ampwith them, Will the radio still be able to "Fade" and "balance" control the speakers?
@@anthonylong5870 No, not at all
@@anthonylong5870 Yes. As long as you use separate RCA input cables for the front and back channels, the head unit will be able to fade front-back as well as balance left-right. If you only use one set of RCA input cables and set the amplifier to output on all four speaker outputs (IIRC it's the 2 channel configuration setting), then you will only be able to balance left-right.
Trying to amp the speakers in my 14 f150, keeping the stock head unit. Could I use four wires from lf and rf to the amp from the factory wiring harness then use 9 wire from the amp to go back up to the head unit and connect all 4 speakers and then insulate the other 4 wires which would be dangling from the stock harness?
Or is it better to run all 8 wires back to the amp or loc and put 2 wires in each side channel?
You could use just a two channel LOC and use the 2 channel switch on the amp to run all four inputs. You will need to test the outputs of the factory radio to make sure they are full range.
why do they never show how the wiring goes back to the speakers from the amp? or am i misunderstanding thingS?
the idea is to use the wires you already have going to the speakers. i think whats causing the confusion is he doesnt explain that he is wiring from the adapter harness. but just imagine this, when you plug your factory wires into your factory radio with no amp, the radio has an internal amp to weakly power the speakers. so essentially the wires to your speakers already in your car are the outputs to your speakers. in this video, they are teaching us how to leave your factory wires alone, saving you a lot of time and hassle to rerun speaker wires to the speakers in your doors and shit. so, you will need an adapter for your specific vehicle. most of the time you just search your vehichle year and make and youll find the right one, but sometimes you have to find one for the specific model too. now just find a wiring diagram for your cars factory stereo system harness on the internet or better yet, if your adapter harness has instructions its even easier. you plug your adapter into your factory dash harness and now your speaker wires that are already in your car are connected to your adapter harness wires. now just use your wiring diagram or adapter instructions, locate the wires for your speakers, and you can run them straight to your aftermarket amp following the instructions in this video. the idea of this is two benefits: leaving your factory wires alone, and of course, having your speakers powered by a strong amp instead of the weak internal radio amp.
@@psyghtseer If I wire it that way to a 1 Channel amp will I retain the fade and balance controls?
@@AbslutZr I assume you mean from your head unit. well you're amp is gonna need the signal from the head unit so yes. You should be running rcas from your head unit to your amp for the signal or using a hi to low converter if your factory head unit doesn't have rca output. So you will still have all the function the head unit has
@@psyghtseer I have an aftermarket radio with 3 preamp outputs but I only have a mono channel amp. I am not installing a subwoofer but I want to wire 4 speakers to the mono channel amp. No big deal there, but I do want to retain the fade controls so I can kill the back speakers at my leisure. I'm not sure how do this with the components I have on hand. I have this stuff laying around and I'm not in the mood to buy a 2 channel or 4 channel amp.
@@AbslutZr oh I see what you're saying now, my bad. Well with only one channel you won't be able to use the head unit faders. I assume you'd probably be wiring the four speakers in parallel so you might be able to rig some kind of Killswitch on the back speakers...
Thank you for the video!!! my question is do you use anything to put between the radio and input towards the amp? Because you got to run two cables of this nine wires correct? So you caught the speaker wires on the radio get the nine wire to the end and then the output of the amp to the speakers right???... I appreciate your time in advance!!
Great video and great quality work. If someone doesn't understand how to wire it up after watching this video, they probably don't need to be doing it to begin with!
How concerned should I be that the existing speaker wires can handle the power?
hey I really bring to understand exactly which harness I am cutting
Ok I'm confused. I thought speaker wires go from the speakers to the amp and than the rca wires go from the amp to the back of the stereo. Am I missing something
Awesome video man,thank you. i did have one question,is there any limitations or dos and don'ts when it comes to what kind of amp you can use for this operation? thank you for your time.
Iam a slow learning dude . You make it simple and fun, and l like that there is no overkill.
👌
pliz answer whay dosn'n remote contorl(blue wire) conect to radio
Marko Knežević cuz your too high and sky blues the limit
The multiple red and black wires that you have, would those be the wires inside a 9 speed wire?
If you go down this route how much power can the factory wires handle before you need to re-wire the whole stereo system?
maybe 200-250 watts max per channel , I'm running a 400w x 4 amp on factory speaker wiring without problems
@@76175256 hi, do you mean 200 - 250 RMS or peak?
@@austinej2785 peak
I was confused on the 4ch install you said to cut the wires from the metra harness 2 times. Did you mean cut the actual wires from the vehicles original harness ?
What is the time stamp so I can check?
High quality video and install. Good background music too. ☺️
Yep but I still don't understand lol 😅
this video just saved me a ass load of time not having to wire from the speakers directly to the amp. i can just use the wires already in my truck and run the wires from the factory type adapter to the amp itself. so much easier than running all new speaker wires to the all especially with the pac connectors on each door.. same that was gonna be a real pain in the ass! thanks so much for showing this easier to do shortcut!
Glad it helped!
Thank you for trying to help me learn, but I leant nothing
I posted an explanation for everyone, hope it helps.
Lol
Me too im sittin here like 😳.
It's called retardation.
Lmao right it was like a kindergarten class... alright guys copy everything I do and you won’t learn a god dam thing any questions...
-billy”I do”
-quality mobile “that was a rhetorical question!”
would appreciate some wisdom concerning the stock wire size. is 75w x 4 too much for stock wires ? '14 subaru forester 2.5
No, you should be fine.
What wires actually go to the speakers? All I've seen you do is connect the hu to the amp.
The Rca runs to the head unit from the amp and the amp runs to the factory harness to complete the circuit to the speakers.
Ezequiel Lopez me too bru
RCA's out of the head unit to the amp. Speaker wires out of the amp back to the harness that connects to the vehicles wiring. Then you're using the factory speaker wires from there to each speaker, so you don't have to run new wires through the doors.
PURESOUND4 so the speakers no longer connect to the head unit?
Stefan Williams Correct. The whole idea is to drive the speakers with more clean power than the head unit can provide. So you don't even use the head unit's speaker outputs, just the RCAs to get signal to the amp. I've got a small Clarion 4 channel amp (50x4) wired this way and it sounds way better than it did when I had the speakers powered off the head unit.
I feel like I'm missing something. How are the speakers getting any signal from the receiver if we cut them off from the harness and putting it into the amp wires? It's getting power and sending it back to the receiver but then how is it getting to the speakers?
This presumes you are using an aftermarket amp and headunit, you can do this with a stock headunit but you need to run the speaker level signals to the amp instead of RCA's
thanks for making this simple for me.
Stg
GREAT VIDEO. This solves a problem I am having with the audio upgrade in my 04 Accord. EXCELLENT attention to detail. Looking forward to your future videos.
Thanks James!
Is there a disadvantage in running one set of rca cables to a 4 channel amp when connecting the front and rears?
Yes...you will lose the ability to use the fade control on the head unit.
@@mellowjammer thanks man. Sooo I should just get a rca splitter? Y splitter? Male to two female or vice versa?
@@dantheisen35 Dan, in order to use the fade control from your head unit you will need to have 2 sets of different inputs (2 rca cable pairs) to the amp...one from the front channel outputs of the head unit and one from the rear channel outputs of the head unit.
02:44 Here you say to cut grey and white near the white connector (on the left) to weld.
What I don't understand is, what is happening with the rest of the wires once you weld the ones near the white connector, they must be disabled/not used? This is the part I don't see in the video.
Great video btw, helped me a lot!
i used shrink rap for the first time ... I AM A GOD fun to use and very good stuff
Could you connect all four speakers to a 2 channel amp?
Do you connect the speakers to the factor harness or aftermarket harness?
Factor he just hooked the output from stereo to amp brought the output from amp back up to head unit and hook up to factor wiring harness to speakers. It’s the factor wiring big enough? It should work might be a lot of wires running under dash
I'm confused! You wired the speaker output wires from the head unit to the speaker output connections on the amp? Should it have not been, speakers wires out from the head unit to speaker level input on the amp? Then, the speaker output connectors going to the speakers?
He bypassed the speaker outputs from the head unit. The RCA cables supply the signal to the amp which then gets output to the speakers at the car side of the adapter harness.
Fine job Lorenz.....Super professional.
So basically you just eliminate the head unit speaker wire connections and connect wire from the after market quick connect harness speaker wire outputs, then to the amplifier, correct?
Very well done. Excellent.
How far away is that Amp supposedly gonna be sitting from the head unit ? About a foot Max ?
Great Video but I wish you'd explain that most aftermarket Amps sit pretty far away from the head unit. Like under a seat or whatever. That Amp is a little too big to sit under the dash imo.
Am I wrong ?
The amp can be anywhere, this was to demonstrate the concept.
@@Qualitymobilevideo
Most experienced people know that the Amp will be sitting somewhere other than under the dash but somebody giving it a go for the first time in their life would be confused. Especially when they realize just how long some of the wires, RCA jacks, etc. will actually be.
Like I said it's a great video and I'm not trying to be an Asshole.
I was just stating a fact for the newer, younger Guys or Gals.
Either way, it's no big deal.
I don't understand how it goes to the speakers from the Amp, to me it seemed like, Amp to wire harness plug back into deck, or did I miss understand something. Your workmanship is great 👍
The car audio set up with amplifier begins with stereo + amp + speakers..Car amplifiers are built 3 wiring stations. 2 inputs, and 1 output station. Inputs consist of 3 wires to power the amp. Inputs consist commonly 2 - 4 RCA jacks connections from car stereo to the amp. Outputs will be your speaker wires. When adding an amp to your car audio system it usually takes a little planning due to specifications of the amplifier used in audio system.
I noticed that the amp output to the speakers is running back into the head unit which is confusing. Why would the amp output go back into the head unit and not directly to the speakers? I have a head unit with six channels of preamp outputs which I was going to run four RCAs (LF, RF, LR, RR) to the RCA inputs on a four channel amp. I was going to run the amp outputs directly to the speakers, not back into the head unit. Is this not correct?
No, the amp power is simply utilizing the factory speaker wires behind the radio so you don't have to run new ones.
@@Qualitymobilevideo Okay... I think I have it figured out. My confusion was orienting your example harness. I assume that the large white connector is plugging into the original factory harness and the large black connector is plugging into the aftermarket head unit. Is this correct?
"How To Without Cutting Factory Wiring" but the first thing you do is cut into the front speaker wiring. I'm lost. Are you cutting into the harness you created? So how do I make that harness? Ugh.
you are right. though typically you would just buy that harness for your specific vehicle. search your vehicle with "stereo wiring harness adapter". in the videos hypothetical harness, he says the white side connects to your car. in your car, when you remove the factory radio, the wires in your cars dash will have a vehicle specific configuration, and your adapter will plug into that. then hopefully your adapter comes with some instructions to make it easier for you, but if not, its okay. you should be able to find wiring diagrams for you cars stereo system online. as long as you can find that, you can match up which wires are going to what on your adapter and then translate the colors. from there, you can follow the videos instructions if youre gonna do it like that. if your car isnt too antique or obscure, you can find adapters like the one in the video that are plug and play without an amp. for my car, the adapter i got plugs into my car and then has a bunch of wires i need to plug into my aftermarket stereo with my own connections and solders.
@@psyghtseer let me get this straight, he basically connects the wires from the amp to the side of the harness that would be plugged into the already existing harness which originally the car speakers and such are connected? And then shrink wrap those that would be protruding from the head unit's side of the harness?
@@wesbank6640 yes. this just enables you to not have to run all new speaker wires to each speaker. it bypasses the speaker outputs from the head unit, but routes the amplified signal from the amp back to the existing speaker wires at the head unit.
@@psyghtseer I greatly appreciate the info bro, seriously, and that's even if I still don't quite understand :- MY ISSUE IS is how do I connect my mid-bass amp to my factory speaker wiring but keep in mind my LC7i LOC is tapped into my factory speaker wires grabbing the signal. Conundrum IMO. I'm so ready to pay someone for the answer,, or.. pay someone to just do it for me already! I've been 8,000 RMS watts of just one powerful sub bass these last 6 months, time to amplify my Skar door speakers if you know what I mean. (Skar DNR w/ Taramps Bass 8K along with another couple grand worth of electrical upgrades in addition to the two-grand I already mentioned), ugh.
@@kyungrix1112 thank you!
Would factory wiring be sufficient to run a 75 watts rms per channel amplifier through to speakers?
Yes, not much more than that though
So I watched this a few times over and you wired the radios speaker output to amps speaker output????? The radio speaker output should have been the side that was sealed off
i'm thinking the idea is that rca's will be the signal out of the head unit into the amp, then the power out of the amp will run along these wires back up to the dash and plug into the factory harness which will then carry the power back throughout the car to the door speakers.. thus completely bypassing the head unit's built in amp and wiring..
@@Keldren. excellent explanation. Ty
@@Keldren. Bro you just cleared up everything...
"Running the amp's output wires to the wires on the adapter harness is how you avoid having to run new speaker wiring throughout the car. That's the bottom side of the triangle in the photo - speaker wires from the amp connect to the speaker wires on the adapter harness. Then that harness plugs into your car." - Crutchfield
@@Keldren. my question is... if you cut the door speaker wires from the headunit and connect the amp to the head unit... how does the specific speaker left snipped know when to function or function at all... through the RCAs?
At first I thought he was connecting the speaker wires from the amp to the HU and leaving the wires to the speaker
Thats exactly what he did, I was wondering "so what goes to the speakers?"
Nice vid! But, what if I don't have any RCA connectors on my factory unit??
So I already have an amplifier, subwoofer and aftermarket head unit, and I want to Install a second 4 channel amp for all four of my door speakers. I have a few questions about wiring it up.
1. Would it be easier to cut the speaker wires from the radio like you did and run them to the amp.
2. Can I use just one pair or RCA cables to send signal to both front and rear?
3. If yes (from question 2) what amp would have the switch for 4 and 2 channels?
4. Can I make a "T" connection into my existing remote wire to send signal to the second amp.
5. Would simply getting a 2 channel amp and bridging the front and rear be simpler since I'd only have to use one RCA?
I'm a beginner with this kind of thing so I'm sorry if I'm difficult to understand. I really just want more oomf in my door speakers since they can handle around 100rms according to the box lol
Dakota 1: in my opinion i like running brand new wire cause i know what im looking at
2: yes you can
3:almost every 4 channel amp can do this, i prefer using the rockford fosgate p400.4 its 100 watts rms per channel at 4ohm
4:if you already have an amp installed just shove a second wire into the screw hole at the first amp or if you dont then make a t connection or if you have an aftermarket deck the deck should have either an amp turn on or a power antenna wire, its the same thing either way
5:NO, this will screw with you impedance get a 4 channel amp, remeber this you can always go bigger and get smaller heres an example: you can get a 4 channel and bridge it down to 2 speakers (if the amp is bridgeable) but DO NOT get a 2 channel amp and hook up 4 speaker unless your amp is rated for a certain ohm rating and is over powered cuz if you get a 200.2 amp your only running 50 watts rms to each speaker with 4 speaker, in hindsight 4 channel is easier and the amps today there almost the same size. Hope this helps
i need the same questions answered Lmfao
Do really factory speaker wires can be powered by an 900W amplifier? Would that be a problem of eficiency in the quality of sound? Thanks.
I like ur job mr..so very neat n details
Would there be any interference problem if I lay the amp input wires side by side with the amp speaker output wires and the 12v power wire together? Meaning I bundle them all up.
No bundle up. I would suggest seperating the the power supply wires(+ - rem.) On one side and the audio cables (rca LF RF LR RR) on the other. 2 seperate bundle ups, power and audio
Very confusing you cut soldered 2 wires where is the other one very frustrated learned nothing
It’s very simple, not confusing at all.
Hello quick question for you does this have to be done to the factory's harness or the after market harness
No, this video creates a plug and play harness to not cut you factory harness.
@@Qualitymobilevideo could a military splice also be done
Doesn't matter how many of these types of videos I watch. I continue to learn less and less. No one answers the simple questions that I am looking to have answered.
What question do you need answered?
@qualitymobilevideo I'm a complete beginner and trying to learn. All my speakers went out but the radio is still working (I hooked up an extra speaker directly to the radio and sound came out). I checked fuses and wiring, so I'm assuming it is the amp. My question is this, in this video, are you installing a new amp and creating a new route for the radio signal to go through in order to produce sound in the speakers while also leaving the factory amp in place to handle any other functions it currently does (I think my factory amp has at least the rear brake lights running through it)?
Beautiful work!
Correct me if I’m wrong and not sure if you mentioned it, but doesn’t the amp need a power source? Shouldn’t there be a power wire running from the battery and a ground wire?
Everyone knows how to install car audio these days, and everyone have different ideas of how to make a best sound in their cars
All I need to know if if I needed to use rca cables or not since I’ll be hooking up a sub on a separate amp
@@itsjusta2v198 yes u need rca
I just bought a planet audio it's always two days I still can't figure it out. I even think I burnt a fuse because I didn't unplug the harness so I saw a spark and the radio doesn't turn on .
U genius man, university would never teach us this way
I currently have the factory radio harness connected to the aftermarket Metra adapter harness that is connected to my pioneer head unit harness. Now that I want to add the amplifier I am slightly confused as to which harness the speaker output from the amplifier needs to tap into. Factory Harness, Metra Harness, or Pioneer Head Unit Harness? Thank you in advance.
Who the hell has a P touch machine laying around? Looks like I'm gonna have to swipe the one from the office Monday mourning.
How would you go about doing this if you had to add a line output converter? Also would I need two converters? One for the front two speakers and one for the rear.
You cant loc is for subs
They make LOCs for highs and mids and woofers too. Lc7i is a 6 channel LOC.
Cool dude. Thanks for the demo. A guy actually told me that for bigger amps not to use the factory wires. That's only for bigger amps
How big is bigger amps?
Yes please explain this to me bcuz I have the SCV 3000D... no way in hell that I can run wires from that amp into any factory wires 😝😝😝 what's the wattage limitations please?!?! So only do this with my 4 channel mids and highs amp? Or no bcuz I have the Skar RP 150.4AB ?!?! I'm thinking this won't work either bcuz of too much power. With my equipment I am fricken confused AF 😝😝😝 and pissed at the same time bcuz another day went by with no hook up bcuz I'm not doing anything until I find the right information or video. SUCKS I'M FEININ FO MY BASS LOL ‼️‼️‼️
@@John2323-b1mlong time since but if you are running more than 100w per speaker like doors or 6x9s run new wire.
Hey I got a skar dual 12 inch subwoofers 2400 watts and a 2000 watt skar amp what's the best amp wiring kit I should use and do I have to do the big 3 or is there another way to save money watch your channel all the type and would love to hear some feedback from you if you could help me out don't want to buy the wrong thing
Without model number, arbitrary output numbers don’t really mean anything. Rules of thumb on current consumption, Class AB 50-60% efficient, Class D 70-80%. Volt x amps = watts, calculate your true RMS output, wire length with your max current consumption and you can see what wire you need.
So can I just cut all the speakers wires and essentially put the amplifier between the head unit and speakers? The factory head unit as well.
What if I’m tapping into speaker wire with a low output converter will this work for the amp to feed all 4 door speakers?
So i use this same 2 channel kenwood amp and hook up to 2 6.5 they barely have any volume coming out of them and the bass is higher than words but still with the volume all up and amp up they sound like volume is at a 2. When its at a 30. I have 2 of same 6.5 to head unit and they sound great. Whats the deal. The amp worked great on the sub
What im curious about is isnt the factory amplifier hooked up to the speakers.. and then you hook up an aftermarket amplifier to the speakers as well. Wouldnt that be like sending power out to each amp..
Ok so you connect the new speaker wire to the factory harness or the new stereo harness?
You will connect it to the factory harness so that you utilize the factory wiring in the doors.
I just have a question when I run eight speaker wires and one amp turn on wire and make the cut am I routing the nine wires the way of the aftermarket head unit or the way of the car factory wires??. And obviously with the amp turn on wire will need need to be made if you have a factory installed amp or power antenna correct which I don't so I will just cut it and heat shrink the other side off.
I thought about getting a Metra female harness and factory male harness from a junk yard. This would allow me to use the factory radio and factory wiring to power an amp and aftermarket door speakers.
I'm just trying to decide if I want to keep the factory radio or upgrade to an aftermarket one. I've also got a Mopar subwoofer that hides behind the factory trim panel. I'm also trying to decide if I should get a new subwoofer speaker and run new wiring to the subwoofer.
I'm not going for a super loud system that other people can hear at stop lights. I'm just going for something that sounds like a good pair of headphones.
I have a i905 alpine head unit with rca’s running to the R2-A60F 4 channel amplifier and a R2-S653 set of component speakers, do I run all the speaker cables to the cross over , as in just one set of speaker cables from the amp to the cross overs and then wire all the speakers from the crossover, if so do I need to bridge the cables from the amp to the crossover , as it’s a 4 channel amp,if so what size wiring will suit it ,or should I just have the subs from the component speakers wired directly from amp to the speakers and run another speaker to the crossover feeding the mid and the tweeter .Please Help
My car doesn't have solid and striped wires in the head unit but just a bunch of random colored ones, how do I figure out what is what