I used the 1014e many years ago with an Anamorphic lens, the Kowa 8Z. It is a beautiful camera, the dissolve function works by stopping the film takeup into the cartridge, as the super 8 cartridge has a special design, the film is bunched up in the cartridge, so it can be rewound to be exposed again on the second run, you are not reccomended to do dissolves at the beggining or end of the roll. Yes it is a heavy camera, Canons for me had the best lenses for super 8, which is at its best when close up.
I'm looking at getting one. I saw a film of the 814 and how smooth the video came out (I think they were shooting at 24fps vs 18). They are getting hard to find in good working condition at reasonable prices these days.
I have owned several 1014 AZE cameras and they are just great! The only down side is that the lubrication dries out if it is left idle for too long and then it has to be sent in for a CLA. I think that the best way to show its potential is to shoot V3 50D.
I love 50D too! I wanted to shoot Ektachrome for this comparison to give the cameras as little room for error as possible. I'd also like to try projecting my film, though I'm still on the hunt for a super 8 projector.
Friend your information is great from what I managed to understand I am waiting for the Canon 814 XLS-S ELETRONIC to arrive..Ma mi hanno detto...the biggest curse on the market are faulty gears break the shutter and claw?...What do you know for real??
im about to get a 1014 and this just made my purchase decision way more confident.. one quick question, when you do the manual zoom can you do quick zooms without it not getting messed up?
What do you mean by messed up? As long as you're not being rough with it, I think you can do pretty quick zooms without fear of breaking the camera. Are you going for that The Office-style documentary type zoom?
I have an 814E, but it doesn't work anymore. The knob for the aperture doesn't work and somehow the aperture got stuck at f/8, plus the trigger sticks so that you have to smack the camera to get it to stop running. If I could find a place to get it fixed, it'd actually be a pretty decent camera. It's one of the few super-8 cameras that can handle every ISO in the Super-8 spec, so you can use the internal meter with Pro8mm films.
My 1014 had a similar issue for a little bit with a sticking trigger, but I shot a little bit of contact cleaner in the switch and triggered it repeatedly. The aperture knob seems like a little bit more involved of a fix though!
Use white lettering on a black background and the titles will be much better. Use manual exposure to achieve a true black otherwise the auto exposure will over expose.
@@madscienti11 Would you please send me a pic of the piece and the LED light? That's an interesting idea. Why didn't you just use the threaded 85 filter cancel button on the top? Thanks, -Jim
@@jimbricky Sure! There are a lot of lights that would work, but here's a link to the light that I have: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YSF3X8K This one is daylight balanced only, but one that does both tungsten and daylight would probably be more versatile. The exact cold shoe listing from eBay that I have is gone, but this is similar: www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Metal-Cold-Shoe-Flash-Stand-Adapter-with-1-4-20-Tripod-Screw-set-of-4/254586260173 I've never used a video light in the CCA filter cancel hole, but the thread is 1/4-20, so it should be pretty easy to rig something up (in fact, you could use the light that I have with a small 1/4-20 stud). The only issue there is that if you were using daylight film, you'd need a daylight balanced light, and if you were using tungsten film you'd need a tungsten balanced light, since I don't think there's a way to turn the CCA filter back on with the light installed. The real answer to your question though: I didn't really think about using the CCA filter hole.
@@madscienti11 Do you have any footage you've shot with the light panel? This is something I've thought of doing in the past but never saw anyone shooting on film actually do so I'm curious to see the results!
Hi, I was wondering how you manually expose the image like how are you meant to know f stop will be good lighting. Also how do you make sure your diopter is focused to ensure focus shots
Hey there! For manual exposure, you'll need some way to meter light: you can either use a dedicated light meter, a phone app, or there's a way to "guess" called sunny 16. (In this case though, since the camera has an auto mode, I'd always use auto mode over guessing). If you change the shutter angle or framerate, you'll change the effective shutter speed, but full open at 18fps is roughly a shutter speed of 1/40 sec. (155 degree shutter angle/360 degrees * 1/18fps) To ensure the diopter is focused, I'll go to a place where I can see something very far away, zoom all the way in, set the lens to infinity and then adjust the diopter until the image is sharp.
@@madscienti11 oh okay thank you! I will be using 24 fps. what will the shutter speed be if I keep it on 24 fps? I will try look for a light meter though.
@@moonrabbitpictures6595 You can use the same math for 18fps as 24fps: 155/360 * 1/24 = ~1/56, or close enough to 1/60 for your meter. Again though, that only works if you have the shutter angle set to fully open. Each stop of the shutter angle setting will increase the effective shutter speed by one stop (so, 1/125 and then 1/250).
Any idea how to check if the rewind function is working? I think I have it set right but when i open the film area the sprockets go in the same direction as when regularly running, so it doesn't seem like it's rewinding.
Hi forrest it looks like my kodak vision 3 film won't roll, like it is stuck. Is there a way to solve this? The motor of my Canon 512xl does spin round though. I hope you can help I have a wedding today all the best from the netherlands Holland.
Hi Johnny, I don't know much about the 512XL model, since I don't have one, but it sounds like your motor isn't making enough torque to turn the film cartridge, or the cartridge is internally jammed. If you manually advance the cartridge with your finger, does it turn freely?
I've never tried a 1218, but from what I've seen online, I don't think the 1218 is worth it over the 1014E. The 1218 has fewer features and requires mercury batteries-and as I mentioned in the video, I really use the wide angle end more than the zoom end, so going all the way to the super high zoom of the 1218 doesn't really have a huge appeal to me.
@@madscienti11 thanks! I’ll try to get a 1014E first. There are certainly many fun features on this one. Canon was thinking about the student or amateur filmmaker opposed to people who only got their cameras out during birthdays, holidays, vacations, ect.
@@oldradiosnphonographs I know a lot of the Beaulieus take batteries that are proprietary and need re-celling to work-the later model Canons are really nice in that they only require AAs.
There are two circular dials, one of them spins indefinitely and allows you to do things in precise frame counts-each notch is 2 frames, iirc. The other dial counts up from 0 to 50, which is the length of one cartridge. You can see what fraction of the cartridge you've used on this dial. One thing though, if you take the cartridge out mid-roll, the 50ft counter will reset, so you'll have to write down or remember how much of the roll you've shot if you're going to be doing partial rolls.
@@madscienti11 Hey thanks! There is a problem tho that when I start shooting the second counter doesn't spin. Does it mean the film didn't click properly or something?
@@DarklordofDOOM57 sounds like either the film isn't moving for some reason or the counter itself is broken. As a test, you can put a little sharpie mark on the film, put the cartridge in the camera, and shoot one frame. If the mark moves, you know the film is advancing.
I really don't think you'd see a difference between footage from these cameras side-by-side set at the same settings. I think the storage/age/wear of the last 40 years probably affects the results a lot more than the minor differences between the lenses. I'd choose between these cameras based on features, weight, and price. Also, quality-wise, it's Super 8, there's only so much you can get onto an 8mm wide piece of film.
@@madscienti11 Only so much you can get but at the same time todays technology is showing us tranfers of 4K and even above for Super 8 so I think if shot right, you can get some amazing quality in post production. Take a look at this... ruclips.net/video/WESlEotbFsA/видео.html Shot on a more high end Super 8 camera to begin with and a lot of the frames are slow motion (hence higher fps), but still, it's super 8.
@@seand5517 Looks beautiful! Though it looks like that camera has been modified with a wider gate as well. I don't think I'm anywhere near this level of production!
Hey, I really wouldn't say that at all! In my mind, the zoom difference is useless/negligible, so that is moot. The 1014 has the crossfade feature, which is fun, but a bit of a gimmick. I like the split prism on the 1014, but if you don't mind the microprism, then the 814 is way lighter and easier to carry! On the other hand, if you're going to shoot on a tripod all the time, maybe you don't care about weight. I still standby my takeaway in the video, which is that you should get the best condition camera you can find, or have one refurbished. Past that, I think anyone could be happy with either.
The 1014E is far more versatile than the 814E, and that all comes down to it having proper manual control of the shutter sector angle as well as the iris. With such a small gate, diffraction losses become apparent at f/8 and smaller, so if you're not out and about with ND filters, the ability to increase the shutter speed per frame is most useful. It also allows much greater control of differential focus, because instead of shooting at f/8 in sunlight it lets you open to f/4, the sweet spot in that beautiful zoom. And as mentioned, the split image rangefinding is far and away better than the vague microprism on the 814.
Just found one "Canon 1014 xls" in my granduncle things. Want to sell it. Someone interested ? (brand new, with microphone, cartridge and everything). Also found "Super 16 Pathé Webo" and a "Kodak EK8 Instant Camera".
Great comparison! You should make a video on how to operate each, especially the 814 :)
I used the 1014e many years ago with an Anamorphic lens, the Kowa 8Z. It is a beautiful camera, the dissolve function works by stopping the film takeup into the cartridge, as the super 8 cartridge has a special design, the film is bunched up in the cartridge, so it can be rewound to be exposed again on the second run, you are not reccomended to do dissolves at the beggining or end of the roll. Yes it is a heavy camera, Canons for me had the best lenses for super 8, which is at its best when close up.
I'm looking at getting one. I saw a film of the 814 and how smooth the video came out (I think they were shooting at 24fps vs 18). They are getting hard to find in good working condition at reasonable prices these days.
I have owned several 1014 AZE cameras and they are just great! The only down side is that the lubrication dries out if it is left idle for too long and then it has to be sent in for a CLA. I think that the best way to show its potential is to shoot V3 50D.
I love 50D too! I wanted to shoot Ektachrome for this comparison to give the cameras as little room for error as possible. I'd also like to try projecting my film, though I'm still on the hunt for a super 8 projector.
@@madscienti11 Eumig is a good quality brand projector
Great video thank you! I just ordered a 1014, really excited to test out the crossfade feature :)
I have a 1014 that is currently inoperable. Going to see about getting it working. It's in fabulous shape otherwise.
Friend your information is great from what I managed to understand I am waiting for the Canon 814 XLS-S ELETRONIC to arrive..Ma mi hanno detto...the biggest curse on the market are faulty gears break the shutter and claw?...What do you know for real??
im about to get a 1014 and this just made my purchase decision way more confident.. one quick question, when you do the manual zoom can you do quick zooms without it not getting messed up?
What do you mean by messed up? As long as you're not being rough with it, I think you can do pretty quick zooms without fear of breaking the camera. Are you going for that The Office-style documentary type zoom?
Is there anything else I need to look out for with this model, or any issues this model ls infamous for? (The 1014)
Very informative. Thankx.
Really nice review! I must consider finding one!
Thanks! They're both great cameras, you can't really go wrong if you get one in good shape.
I have an 814E, but it doesn't work anymore. The knob for the aperture doesn't work and somehow the aperture got stuck at f/8, plus the trigger sticks so that you have to smack the camera to get it to stop running. If I could find a place to get it fixed, it'd actually be a pretty decent camera. It's one of the few super-8 cameras that can handle every ISO in the Super-8 spec, so you can use the internal meter with Pro8mm films.
My 1014 had a similar issue for a little bit with a sticking trigger, but I shot a little bit of contact cleaner in the switch and triggered it repeatedly. The aperture knob seems like a little bit more involved of a fix though!
This was super helpful! Thank you!
Use white lettering on a black background and the titles will be much better. Use manual exposure to achieve a true black otherwise the auto exposure will over expose.
Good video, very accurate. I have both cameras.
What is the thing you have attached to the top of the 814?
Thank you and good question, it's a cold shoe that I hot glued on for holding an LED light panel. Helps a lot for indoor shots!
@@madscienti11 Would you please send me a pic of the piece and the LED light? That's an interesting idea. Why didn't you just use the threaded 85 filter cancel button on the top? Thanks, -Jim
@@jimbricky Sure! There are a lot of lights that would work, but here's a link to the light that I have: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YSF3X8K This one is daylight balanced only, but one that does both tungsten and daylight would probably be more versatile. The exact cold shoe listing from eBay that I have is gone, but this is similar: www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Metal-Cold-Shoe-Flash-Stand-Adapter-with-1-4-20-Tripod-Screw-set-of-4/254586260173
I've never used a video light in the CCA filter cancel hole, but the thread is 1/4-20, so it should be pretty easy to rig something up (in fact, you could use the light that I have with a small 1/4-20 stud). The only issue there is that if you were using daylight film, you'd need a daylight balanced light, and if you were using tungsten film you'd need a tungsten balanced light, since I don't think there's a way to turn the CCA filter back on with the light installed. The real answer to your question though: I didn't really think about using the CCA filter hole.
@@madscienti11 Do you have any footage you've shot with the light panel? This is something I've thought of doing in the past but never saw anyone shooting on film actually do so I'm curious to see the results!
@@stephz8433 FPP did a whole video on it! ruclips.net/video/CyEx2sdfslM/видео.html
Hi, I was wondering how you manually expose the image like how are you meant to know f stop will be good lighting. Also how do you make sure your diopter is focused to ensure focus shots
Hey there! For manual exposure, you'll need some way to meter light: you can either use a dedicated light meter, a phone app, or there's a way to "guess" called sunny 16. (In this case though, since the camera has an auto mode, I'd always use auto mode over guessing). If you change the shutter angle or framerate, you'll change the effective shutter speed, but full open at 18fps is roughly a shutter speed of 1/40 sec. (155 degree shutter angle/360 degrees * 1/18fps)
To ensure the diopter is focused, I'll go to a place where I can see something very far away, zoom all the way in, set the lens to infinity and then adjust the diopter until the image is sharp.
@@madscienti11 oh okay thank you! I will be using 24 fps. what will the shutter speed be if I keep it on 24 fps? I will try look for a light meter though.
@@moonrabbitpictures6595 You can use the same math for 18fps as 24fps: 155/360 * 1/24 = ~1/56, or close enough to 1/60 for your meter.
Again though, that only works if you have the shutter angle set to fully open. Each stop of the shutter angle setting will increase the effective shutter speed by one stop (so, 1/125 and then 1/250).
How do you pull iris or establish an exposure manually? i see a focus and a zoom.....
Very good video!
Thanks!
Any idea how to check if the rewind function is working? I think I have it set right but when i open the film area the sprockets go in the same direction as when regularly running, so it doesn't seem like it's rewinding.
what is the name of that cine lab in ma that you had these films developed and telecinated?
It's called Cinelab 🙂
does anyone still make super 8 film stock with sound?
Sadly no-and I don't think there's anywhere to get it processed either.
Hi forrest it looks like my kodak vision 3 film won't roll, like it is stuck. Is there a way to solve this? The motor of my Canon 512xl does spin round though. I hope you can help I have a wedding today all the best from the netherlands Holland.
Hi Johnny, I don't know much about the 512XL model, since I don't have one, but it sounds like your motor isn't making enough torque to turn the film cartridge, or the cartridge is internally jammed. If you manually advance the cartridge with your finger, does it turn freely?
What about the Canon 1218? I’m interested in that model but is it worth it compared to the 1014?
I've never tried a 1218, but from what I've seen online, I don't think the 1218 is worth it over the 1014E. The 1218 has fewer features and requires mercury batteries-and as I mentioned in the video, I really use the wide angle end more than the zoom end, so going all the way to the super high zoom of the 1218 doesn't really have a huge appeal to me.
@@madscienti11 thanks! I’ll try to get a 1014E first. There are certainly many fun features on this one. Canon was thinking about the student or amateur filmmaker opposed to people who only got their cameras out during birthdays, holidays, vacations, ect.
@@madscienti11 I was also thinking of a Beaulieu 4008ZM but doing my research they seem problematic, so 1014 it is!
@@oldradiosnphonographs I know a lot of the Beaulieus take batteries that are proprietary and need re-celling to work-the later model Canons are really nice in that they only require AAs.
@@madscienti11 welp. I just bought the 1014. It’s the best I can get for my budget. Would like an XLS but I’ll be fine with the AZ E.
I got the Canon Autozoom 1014 and I don't get how to read how much film I have left, can someone help me? Tx!
There are two circular dials, one of them spins indefinitely and allows you to do things in precise frame counts-each notch is 2 frames, iirc. The other dial counts up from 0 to 50, which is the length of one cartridge. You can see what fraction of the cartridge you've used on this dial.
One thing though, if you take the cartridge out mid-roll, the 50ft counter will reset, so you'll have to write down or remember how much of the roll you've shot if you're going to be doing partial rolls.
@@madscienti11 Hey thanks! There is a problem tho that when I start shooting the second counter doesn't spin. Does it mean the film didn't click properly or something?
@@DarklordofDOOM57 sounds like either the film isn't moving for some reason or the counter itself is broken. As a test, you can put a little sharpie mark on the film, put the cartridge in the camera, and shoot one frame. If the mark moves, you know the film is advancing.
Which one has better quality video overall in your opinion?
I really don't think you'd see a difference between footage from these cameras side-by-side set at the same settings. I think the storage/age/wear of the last 40 years probably affects the results a lot more than the minor differences between the lenses. I'd choose between these cameras based on features, weight, and price.
Also, quality-wise, it's Super 8, there's only so much you can get onto an 8mm wide piece of film.
@@madscienti11 Only so much you can get but at the same time todays technology is showing us tranfers of 4K and even above for Super 8 so I think if shot right, you can get some amazing quality in post production. Take a look at this...
ruclips.net/video/WESlEotbFsA/видео.html
Shot on a more high end Super 8 camera to begin with and a lot of the frames are slow motion (hence higher fps), but still, it's super 8.
@@seand5517 Looks beautiful! Though it looks like that camera has been modified with a wider gate as well. I don't think I'm anywhere near this level of production!
so basically 1014 is much better then the 814 right?
Hey, I really wouldn't say that at all! In my mind, the zoom difference is useless/negligible, so that is moot. The 1014 has the crossfade feature, which is fun, but a bit of a gimmick. I like the split prism on the 1014, but if you don't mind the microprism, then the 814 is way lighter and easier to carry! On the other hand, if you're going to shoot on a tripod all the time, maybe you don't care about weight.
I still standby my takeaway in the video, which is that you should get the best condition camera you can find, or have one refurbished. Past that, I think anyone could be happy with either.
The 1014E is far more versatile than the 814E, and that all comes down to it having proper manual control of the shutter sector angle as well as the iris. With such a small gate, diffraction losses become apparent at f/8 and smaller, so if you're not out and about with ND filters, the ability to increase the shutter speed per frame is most useful. It also allows much greater control of differential focus, because instead of shooting at f/8 in sunlight it lets you open to f/4, the sweet spot in that beautiful zoom. And as mentioned, the split image rangefinding is far and away better than the vague microprism on the 814.
what film did you use on this set?
I think I mentioned in the video but I used Ektachrome 100D since it has the least room for error in exposure
Oh no. He is becoming a youtuber ahhhhhhhhhhhhh
Yeah, make sure to use my code on squarespace and audible for a free zero day trial
Only if the website includes some Bourke Original photos :)
Is anyone else finding that the 1014 lens is just too... long?
Just found one "Canon 1014 xls" in my granduncle things. Want to sell it. Someone interested ? (brand new, with microphone, cartridge and everything). Also found "Super 16 Pathé Webo" and a "Kodak EK8 Instant Camera".
I think you'll have much better luck on eBay than you will trying to sell things in youtube comments :)
Did you sell it?
You star in one Hollywood film and think you can just start comparing cameras, huh?