If you're referring to the left wall, that is off. If you're referring to the small rock that the feet go on, then that's on. If there was an eliminate where it was off, I could imagine that being much harder than an 8 for sure
Could be because I'm shorter so controlling the swing out (crux) feels easier than for tall folks ? (It's an interesting tradeoff for this problem though since if you're taller, swing will be harder but you can comfortably get a good kneebar for the left hand bump to the pinch that felt really hard/low percentage without it)
@@rochesterinnyc There's also a slight advantage for taller folks, that they can shift their body closer to their arms before doing the cut. I think getting to the position just before the cut is equally easy for everybody (5'6"-6'1"), at least from the couple of sessions I've spent on this. I haven't held the cut on this problem though so I recognise my opinion isn't so valid :P
@@kockarthur7976 personally, I fell the most on bumping the left hand to the pinch actually, but in my case it was a combination of not being to place the kneebar (was way too outstretched with it) and the shoes I brought (Agros) being too soft in the toebox area to properly do the toecam (I ended up just toehooking which kind of works but doesn't take enough weight off to allow a static bump). I definitely agree about the shifting the body closer though. Taller dude who was working this while I was there was able to basically get his torso near vertical before the cut (so only the legs swing instead of the entire body) + get arms near bent lockoff before the cut.
Completely agree with your thoughts on fixing offensive names. I don't love the trend, though, of renaming old problems whose history has been "discovered." For example, changing Marrakesh Express to Murray's Traverse, or changing The Pearl to the Whale. Those names had existed in the community for decades, and changing them forever makes the name inelegant and confusing. Like, every single time somebody says "I want to do Marrakesh today," someone else will say, "oh, you mean Murray's?," and when we write the problem names we have to write "Marrakesh Express/Murray's Traverse," or "Murray's Traverse/Marrakesh Express." I think the established names should remain, and there should just be a comment in the problem's description about the FAist and/or original "discovered" name.
Ah yeah, I'm honestly not sure how a lot of those new names came about. I agree wholeheartedly though about not renaming old problems. So when you say "established" names, are you referring to the original names or the names that in some cases everyone refers to now?
The old paper bouldering guidebook "Bouldering in the Shawangunks" was first printed in 1997. It listed "Marrakesh Express." That's the name I've known since I started climbing. "Gunks Apps" released their "Trapps Bouldering" in 2016 (nearly 20 years later), they renamed the problem to "Murray's Traverse." This kind of renaming is what I disagree with. From the "History" section of the app: "One climber who perhaps got lost in the shuffle was Bob Murray. Being somewhat of a shy recluse, perhaps that's how he preferred it. However, his abilities on the boulders were too far ahead of his time to go unnoticed, earning him the nickname 'Fingers.' He didn't visit the Gunks much, but it didn't take him long to leave his mark anyway. Though his namesake boulder at the Trapps would be renamed and reFA'd by future climbers, old climbers always referred to it as the Murray boulder, because 'he climbed every freakin' line on it.' This includes what later were named the Marrakesh Express (V6) and Marrakesh Dyno (V7). We have opted to correct this historical omission to give credit where credit is due. Bob moved to the Southwest before long and quickly graced the boulders there with stacks of great problems."
@@MgCO3climbing Oh gotcha. Thanks for the history lesson there. That's definitely confusing/kind of messy. It kind of feels in that case that it's the FAist's responsibility to kind of make sure the history of the FA is documented somewhere? To avoid the case of fellow A FAing something and telling some friends, fellow B later sending it and thinking it's an FA and calling it something that gets popularly/widely known, and then later a random friend of fellow A coming in and saying "fellow A climbed this first/way before and so it's actually called this".
Exactly. If nobody knows a problem had been named in the past, the community still needs a name to use. We used the names "Marrakesh Express" and "The Pearl" because the FAists in the past didn't really make their work known. These have been the names that 99.99+% of all climbers have known these climbs by for 20+ years. I love the idea of paying respect to the original first ascensionists, but it should really have been done with a note in the climbs' descriptions rather than renaming.
Murray did the FA and didn’t name it. The climb was named after him. Renamed in a book. Later renamed in the app to give credit to him. I see no issue.
Goat
Niiice bro! Didn't think you'd get it with that beta!
Thanks man! Hahah that left hand bump move basically became the crux for me. Fell way more times on that than the swing.
Yoo!! Wish i stayed around to see the send nice work!!
Thanks man! And thanks to y'all for the beta!
V7 imo. Definitely agree that V9 is too generous
Let's get this thing downgraded
This is the only video I found online, is the boulder on the left on? Do you think it is a V9 if not use it (for the first few moves)?
If you're referring to the left wall, that is off. If you're referring to the small rock that the feet go on, then that's on. If there was an eliminate where it was off, I could imagine that being much harder than an 8 for sure
@@rochesterinnyc checked this problem today and I had to use the rock on the left, feel like a v8, not a v7 to me...
@@tower4598 I feel like 8 is a fair grade for it, compared to the other climbs at the Powerlinez as well
@@tower4598 Congrats on the send!
I see both GunksApp and MP has this as a 9, seems like you disagree? :)
Felt quite soft for a 9...think it should be downgraded. Spent more time on quite a few hard 8s than this thing
Could be because I'm shorter so controlling the swing out (crux) feels easier than for tall folks ? (It's an interesting tradeoff for this problem though since if you're taller, swing will be harder but you can comfortably get a good kneebar for the left hand bump to the pinch that felt really hard/low percentage without it)
@@rochesterinnyc There's also a slight advantage for taller folks, that they can shift their body closer to their arms before doing the cut. I think getting to the position just before the cut is equally easy for everybody (5'6"-6'1"), at least from the couple of sessions I've spent on this. I haven't held the cut on this problem though so I recognise my opinion isn't so valid :P
@@kockarthur7976 personally, I fell the most on bumping the left hand to the pinch actually, but in my case it was a combination of not being to place the kneebar (was way too outstretched with it) and the shoes I brought (Agros) being too soft in the toebox area to properly do the toecam (I ended up just toehooking which kind of works but doesn't take enough weight off to allow a static bump). I definitely agree about the shifting the body closer though. Taller dude who was working this while I was there was able to basically get his torso near vertical before the cut (so only the legs swing instead of the entire body) + get arms near bent lockoff before the cut.
This thing is consensus, easier than honk, therefore V7 imo. (Gunksapp for the powerlinez also upgraded honk tho cuz linez has to be soft)
Completely agree with your thoughts on fixing offensive names. I don't love the trend, though, of renaming old problems whose history has been "discovered." For example, changing Marrakesh Express to Murray's Traverse, or changing The Pearl to the Whale. Those names had existed in the community for decades, and changing them forever makes the name inelegant and confusing. Like, every single time somebody says "I want to do Marrakesh today," someone else will say, "oh, you mean Murray's?," and when we write the problem names we have to write "Marrakesh Express/Murray's Traverse," or "Murray's Traverse/Marrakesh Express." I think the established names should remain, and there should just be a comment in the problem's description about the FAist and/or original "discovered" name.
Ah yeah, I'm honestly not sure how a lot of those new names came about. I agree wholeheartedly though about not renaming old problems. So when you say "established" names, are you referring to the original names or the names that in some cases everyone refers to now?
The old paper bouldering guidebook "Bouldering in the Shawangunks" was first printed in 1997. It listed "Marrakesh Express." That's the name I've known since I started climbing. "Gunks Apps" released their "Trapps Bouldering" in 2016 (nearly 20 years later), they renamed the problem to "Murray's Traverse." This kind of renaming is what I disagree with. From the "History" section of the app:
"One climber who perhaps got lost in the shuffle was Bob Murray. Being somewhat of a shy recluse, perhaps that's how he preferred it. However, his abilities on the boulders were too far ahead of his time to go unnoticed, earning him the nickname 'Fingers.' He didn't visit the Gunks much, but it didn't take him long to leave his mark anyway. Though his namesake boulder at the Trapps would be renamed and reFA'd by future climbers, old climbers always referred to it as the Murray boulder, because 'he climbed every freakin' line on it.' This includes what later were named the Marrakesh Express (V6) and Marrakesh Dyno (V7). We have opted to correct this historical omission to give credit where credit is due. Bob moved to the Southwest before long and quickly graced the boulders there with stacks of great problems."
@@MgCO3climbing Oh gotcha. Thanks for the history lesson there. That's definitely confusing/kind of messy. It kind of feels in that case that it's the FAist's responsibility to kind of make sure the history of the FA is documented somewhere? To avoid the case of fellow A FAing something and telling some friends, fellow B later sending it and thinking it's an FA and calling it something that gets popularly/widely known, and then later a random friend of fellow A coming in and saying "fellow A climbed this first/way before and so it's actually called this".
Exactly. If nobody knows a problem had been named in the past, the community still needs a name to use. We used the names "Marrakesh Express" and "The Pearl" because the FAists in the past didn't really make their work known. These have been the names that 99.99+% of all climbers have known these climbs by for 20+ years. I love the idea of paying respect to the original first ascensionists, but it should really have been done with a note in the climbs' descriptions rather than renaming.
Murray did the FA and didn’t name it. The climb was named after him. Renamed in a book. Later renamed in the app to give credit to him. I see no issue.
Ez
Hop on that shizz
Renaming climbs is dumb and a sign of the ‘woke times’ too many in the climbing community live within. It’s also disrespectful to the original FA’er.