Mine was a 2011 Honda accord and the intake manifold had an additional mount at the bottom that was difficult to take off but not impossible. Just something to add to the list if you’re working on a 2011
Thanks very much for this video. I just replaced a starter in an 09 Accord LX. The intake manifold on mine had a bracket attached at the bottom right that I had to unbolt from the engine. And the breather was in the way so I unbolted it's mounting bracket from the battery tray and kind of pushed it this way or that way to get it out of the way. Otherwise, it was pretty much the same as you showed. I REALLY appreciated that you included the torque specs. Some surprises: the 12 mm nut dead center of manifold requires a thin wall socket to get to, my craftsman 1/2 drive socket was too fat. I bought an inexpensive set at harbour freight (the colorful ones). The nut on the starter was recessed. I ended up using a 3/8 drive with a 3" extension to get to it. I had a hard time torqueing the 14mm rear starter bolt using my 1/2 harbour freight torque wrench. I think a 3/8 torque wrench would be better. Thanks again.
I took my time and had it done in under 5 hours. That five hours included going to get the tools I needed, taking it apart, driving half an hour away to get the starter, putting it together, cleaning the engine bay, and spending time on the phone. A leisurely project that likely saved me hundreds.
Thank you for the easy to follow instructions and including torque specs. My 2009 also had the additional bolt on the bottom of the manifold. Everything was such a tight fit but my hands and arms should heal in about a week. Lol!
My God… all this just to swap out the starter. On my 1987 Dodge Raider it was a 15-minute job. Reached in, popped it out, popped the new one in. There's got to be a better way to make these jobs accessible to the average Joe.
Silly question but do you have to line up the teeth of the starter motor with the teeth on the flywheel? In other words, do you have to worry about the starter teeth and the flywheel teeth smashing into one another? How do the line up? Thanks
Great instructional! Before my starter went out it would make a "crunch" sound on a cold start. I put in a new OEM starter with this instructional as a guide and I'm still getting the "crunch" sound on cold starts but at least the car is starting up. I'm concerned that there is a) damage to my flywheel, or b) I installed a defective starter (unlikely because it's brand new OEM). Do you have any ideas?
my 08 accord had 2 bolts on the bottom of the intake manifold that were also holding it on. you'll need 3 extensions and a u joint, wasn't fun but it's duable
Great video! Made it easy to get my starter out, but I do have a question. I did not have the steel plate between the manifold and block that comes in the gasket set for the intake. Some on YTube say it's not necessary, some say to replace it. I didn't have one to replace, but one came with the gasket set. Should I put it on?? Thanks!
Hitting the throttle body with that hammer will probably mess up your throttle body so if you have idle issues after doing this that may be the reason. Same thing if the car starts and then shuts off right away.
Can you tell me why after doing this my car would start then shut off like there is a kill switch or something? Starter is working great but it starts then turns off. Everything isn’t totally hooked back up just wondering if you think it’s that or something else?
I installed a new starter from Autozone on my 2010 Honda Accord, 2.4L engine. After about 6 months I started having issues with the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced the sensor and I still have problems. Dealer said I should have installed a Honda starter only! Really, anyone else having this problem?
Oh gee you forgot the really hard bolt at the bottom of the intake manifold. I still haven't been able to get it off. I started this job based on the ease that it appeared in this video and now I'm stuck. This is very misleading. Thanks a lot.
I have a 2009 accord replaced the starter 5 years ago. Car acted like battery was dead I fully charged the battery all lights and electronics work but starter won't do anything. Do I possibly need a new starter?
In Honda accord 2012 Starter failed and I was replacing it . There are 3 wire connections for starter 1 on the top ( screwed ) 1 black connector on the side 1 blue connector going to engine ( this one wire came out) Please advise
I got all the way to the point where I take the intake cover off. It will not budge :( I've taken off every nut and bolt needed (6 total) and it won't move a bit
My daughter had Japanese Auto Repair in Alpharetta, GA replace the starter on her 2008 Accord with the 4cy engine after the original starter slowly began to fail. The failing starter may have had a bad solenoid because during failed attempts to start the engine, I could hear the starter spin but it wasn't engaging with the flywheel. After several tries, the starter would engage with the flywheel, turn the engine over, and the engine started and ran fine. The mechanic at Japanese Auto Repair replaced the bad starter. The new starter turns the engine over normally now but the engine won't start up. She was told she has a bad connecting rod and the engine needs to be replaced. I think that's BS because the engine ran fine right up to the time the old starter completely failed to turn the engine. I want to know what the mechanic could have screwed up along the way that could have allowed the starter to turn over the engine but prevent the engine from firing up and running.
It’s mainly clamps and tubing, getting the old hoses removed. Standard tools but an electric ratchet makes the job 3x faster. Metric sockets 10 & 12 for intake stuff. 14 & 17 starter bolts
Anyone else have engine light come on after the repair? I am guessing the air flow is off and possibly running rich? The car was revving the rpm’s and dropping and repeating. When I drove it a short distance in my neighborhood it acted like it was going to die when I let off the gas
first mistake was removing the positive from the battery first, the Negative comes of first to stop any shorting of the battery and not shorting out any operating systems etc the computers you armature 🤣
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
_ starter for a 2008 Accord Coupe
Perfect video for someone with basic mechanical knowledge. Calmest mechanic on RUclips. No sentence enhancers and loud grumbles. Thank you.
Mine was a 2011 Honda accord and the intake manifold had an additional mount at the bottom that was difficult to take off but not impossible. Just something to add to the list if you’re working on a 2011
Thanks very much for this video. I just replaced a starter in an 09 Accord LX. The intake manifold on mine had a bracket attached at the bottom right that I had to unbolt from the engine. And the breather was in the way so I unbolted it's mounting bracket from the battery tray and kind of pushed it this way or that way to get it out of the way. Otherwise, it was pretty much the same as you showed. I REALLY appreciated that you included the torque specs. Some surprises: the 12 mm nut dead center of manifold requires a thin wall socket to get to, my craftsman 1/2 drive socket was too fat. I bought an inexpensive set at harbour freight (the colorful ones). The nut on the starter was recessed. I ended up using a 3/8 drive with a 3" extension to get to it. I had a hard time torqueing the 14mm rear starter bolt using my 1/2 harbour freight torque wrench. I think a 3/8 torque wrench would be better. Thanks again.
Just finished my 2009 Accord and really appreciate your instructions, works perfect thanks to you
I took my time and had it done in under 5 hours. That five hours included going to get the tools I needed, taking it apart, driving half an hour away to get the starter, putting it together, cleaning the engine bay, and spending time on the phone. A leisurely project that likely saved me hundreds.
Nice video! I appreciate your closeups and detailed explanations. Thanks for putting this together for us do it yourselfers.
0:18 negative comes first. At this moment there is a good chance of wrench shorting positive terminal to the metal battery strap bar
Thank you for the easy to follow instructions and including torque specs. My 2009 also had the additional bolt on the bottom of the manifold. Everything was such a tight fit but my hands and arms should heal in about a week. Lol!
did for my 2009 Honda accord, worked perfectly, thanks!
Great video on replacing the starter. Thanks for the info.
Very simple to follow for a diy weekend mechanic 💪💪💪💪
i like your video stright to the point no extra talking
Thank you so much! Replaced the starter and my car fired right up!
+@KatzMeow1414 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
If that starter isn't oem it will cause misfires on cylinder 2 and 3
estuvo muy perron ese video muy claro y muy sencillo.
gracias por el aporte 👍
Thank for the walkthru! What size bolts are for the intake manifold? Trying to put the bottom bolt in I dropped it and couldn't locate it.
Thank you. Save me at least 200 dlls for labor. Explanation was very detailed and easy to follow.
My God… all this just to swap out the starter. On my 1987 Dodge Raider it was a 15-minute job. Reached in, popped it out, popped the new one in. There's got to be a better way to make these jobs accessible to the average Joe.
+Robert Klose Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Ours was a 2012 and had two on the bottom plus one more on the drivers side 👌
Same issue. Ended up buying a Honda OEM starter to fix the problem.
Thank you. Well instructed. 👍🏼
+asespino Thanks for watching. Buy the part in this video on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Silly question but do you have to line up the teeth of the starter motor with the teeth on the flywheel? In other words, do you have to worry about the starter teeth and the flywheel teeth smashing into one another? How do the line up? Thanks
Very detailed! I appreciate this video!
Thanks for this video, I used this to change the starter on my 2009 accord
Muchas gracias por ese video lo logre gracias a ti bendiciones 🙏💪👍🏻
Looks very easy.
Do I have to buy new throttle body and intake gaskets for this job, or am I ok without?
Great instructional! Before my starter went out it would make a "crunch" sound on a cold start. I put in a new OEM starter with this instructional as a guide and I'm still getting the "crunch" sound on cold starts but at least the car is starting up. I'm concerned that there is a) damage to my flywheel, or b) I installed a defective starter (unlikely because it's brand new OEM). Do you have any ideas?
Hello. Will this part/install be the same for AT and MT for the 4-cldr?
Really good tutorial
my 08 accord had 2 bolts on the bottom of the intake manifold that were also holding it on. you'll need 3 extensions and a u joint, wasn't fun but it's duable
For the 2008 Accord they're two bolts up under the right hand side of the manifold that needs to come off. 5:25
Thank you for this tutorial- removal was easy although I found it unnecessary to remove the throttle assembly. Eliminate an entire step
excellent/ good video.
Great video! Made it easy to get my starter out, but I do have a question. I did not have the steel plate between the manifold and block that comes in the gasket set for the intake. Some on YTube say it's not necessary, some say to replace it. I didn't have one to replace, but one came with the gasket set. Should I put it on??
Thanks!
What was the blue sensor you unplugged that was connected to the engine ?
Hitting the throttle body with that hammer will probably mess up your throttle body so if you have idle issues after doing this that may be the reason. Same thing if the car starts and then shuts off right away.
Can you tell me why after doing this my car would start then shut off like there is a kill switch or something? Starter is working great but it starts then turns off. Everything isn’t totally hooked back up just wondering if you think it’s that or something else?
Excellent efficient video, Always Negative cable first, the video missed the removal of plastic snorkel attached to the top radiator support
Does it have to be torqued to spec with a torque wrench? I don’t have a torque wrench would it still be okay to replace it myself?
no need just make it tight
Yes sirmy name is Larry and iam trying to get the clutch gear off of 2009 acord iam not having any luck can you please help me thanks larry
Can I put an aftermarket intake manifold on it like a skunk 2 or a k series one ??
When I connected the battery the starter automatically engaged what’s that mean?
Question, do I need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket with new one?
Nope, as long as it still looks good you can keep the same one
What size drive is the digital torque your using? Looked like a midsize 1/2..
I installed a new starter from Autozone on my 2010 Honda Accord, 2.4L engine. After about 6 months I started having issues with the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced the sensor and I still have problems. Dealer said I should have installed a Honda starter only! Really, anyone else having this problem?
I've done this job before, just wanted a refresh. Buy OEM or you will be doing it again in about a year.
How long should this job take?
Oh gee you forgot the really hard bolt at the bottom of the intake manifold. I still haven't been able to get it off. I started this job based on the ease that it appeared in this video and now I'm stuck. This is very misleading. Thanks a lot.
coolest calmest instructions on how to go about the job,,,tnx a million,,,,,
Is this the 3.5 or 2.4
2011 Honda accord coupe EX-L 2.4L
I have a 2009 accord replaced the starter 5 years ago. Car acted like battery was dead I fully charged the battery all lights and electronics work but starter won't do anything. Do I possibly need a new starter?
Why didn't you show the removal of the lower nuts on the manifold?
You need to zoom out or show where in the engine bay some of the bolts are
In Honda accord 2012
Starter failed and I was replacing it . There are 3 wire connections for starter
1 on the top ( screwed )
1 black connector on the side
1 blue connector going to engine ( this one wire came out)
Please advise
I got all the way to the point where I take the intake cover off. It will not budge :( I've taken off every nut and bolt needed (6 total) and it won't move a bit
My daughter had Japanese Auto Repair in Alpharetta, GA replace the starter on her 2008 Accord with the 4cy engine after the original starter slowly began to fail. The failing starter may have had a bad solenoid because during failed attempts to start the engine, I could hear the starter spin but it wasn't engaging with the flywheel. After several tries, the starter would engage with the flywheel, turn the engine over, and the engine started and ran fine. The mechanic at Japanese Auto Repair replaced the bad starter. The new starter turns the engine over normally now but the engine won't start up. She was told she has a bad connecting rod and the engine needs to be replaced. I think that's BS because the engine ran fine right up to the time the old starter completely failed to turn the engine. I want to know what the mechanic could have screwed up along the way that could have allowed the starter to turn over the engine but prevent the engine from firing up and running.
Thanks
Great Honda engineers POS design on this, what a waste design, great video though thanks TRQ staff
Dope. The car starts now but it revs up and dies immediately
It’s mainly clamps and tubing, getting the old hoses removed. Standard tools but an electric ratchet makes the job 3x faster. Metric sockets 10 & 12 for intake stuff. 14 & 17 starter bolts
+@JosephHubacek-xy8yg Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Always disconnect negative first
Anyone else have engine light come on after the repair? I am guessing the air flow is off and possibly running rich? The car was revving the rpm’s and dropping and repeating. When I drove it a short distance in my neighborhood it acted like it was going to die when I let off the gas
This is so stupid they put the inside of engine. What a f criminals. Thanks for the video
Couldn’t a mechanic theoretically put the car on a rack and come up from the bottom?
first mistake was removing the positive from the battery first, the Negative comes of first to stop any shorting of the battery and not shorting out any operating systems etc the computers you armature 🤣
Lol the bottom bolt was a beech
Very poor design honda, all this for starter motor, I'll pass honda
Make a video for 06 ford ranger oil pan gasket change!!!!! That could do big numbers, and i need help!