1000-HP HOW TO: SBF TURBO STROKERS
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- FULL BOOSTED DYNO RESULTS. 363 TURBO & 427 TWIN TURBO, HOW TO:
Build a 1,000-hp, single-turbo 363 SBF stroker or a 1,000-hp, Twin-Turbo 427 stroker. It's so easy any more to pump out 1,000 hp. The smaller motors requires more boost, but the big motors takes only 10 psi to make 1,000 hp!
I like all 3 SBF combos. Budget always dictates which route.
Just woke up my woman was waking me up my favorite way and look on the lube tube and a awesome video from Richard holdner on 1000hp small block fords today is going to be a good day
Couldn't agree more. I have a 351 stroked to 408. Carb setup. Single 88 turbi With AFR 225 with extra proting work. solid roller. It made 1088 with only 11 psi. So technically invested in the infrastructure of the engine itself. I can go up to 15-16 if I want. But drivablity matters to me.
Sami Alotaibi Im building a stock block 426 windsor based stroker for my foxbody. I have a set of AFR 220s.. would you mind giving me some guidance on your build. What intake? Carb? Any spacer? I was going to use Bullet and get a custom grind roller. My email is c130Marine@yahoo.com. Im on Fb messenger as DaleMulhern. Thank you. Any input would be appreciated
I like when Richard gives more information about the hot side of the turbo. Not enough people talk about the hot side of the turbo. More turbine specs PLEASE!
Most of the CX racing/on3/Ebay stuff from back in the day had a P-trim turbine wheel. So those 76's would be 7565's, most likely with .68 A/R turbine housings. The Import companies didn't start making 7675 or 7875 clones until the last few years.
there was only 1 76mm from CX available when we did this test
Soooooo, what turbine was it?
@@davidleslie6207 100% it was a P-trim wheel, 65mm. Only Richard knows if it was a .68 or .96. A/R
Big engine, Low boost . . . probably gonna last longer all things being equal.🤔
I agree :)
I dont know many people expecting 1000+hp motors to live a long happy life anyway lol buy the 427s torque would be a blast to drive though.
Thanks Richard! Building a mod motor love the content. Has been helping soo much!
Interesting results! That 363 had really big heads and cam, too bad the induction system seemed to hold it back so much. Took a couple “extra” lbs of boost to make double the NA hp. The bored and stroked 351 was amazing, little heads and little cam to make very respectable NA power. Another great video, lots of info. Thanks Richard! (I still want to see you do a blow through Sniper on a single plane one of these days).
Brian Dugle : The Box R is a T3 Tickford style intake. Normal Showa G52 intakes on the SVT and Lightenings drop out well before 425 hp gross. The Box R needs a few nights veolocity probing with a good SuperFlow flowbench. Radius work on the edges helps. Anyway, the LS has replaced the Winsdosr derived 351 to 427 stokers, but that 363 is shallow and compact in the way a Modular or LS or 427 siamese bore Fraud can never be. 363 with a HOT concept... High Output Turbos! 427= LPT Low Pressure Turbo. But I still like 9.469 to 9.500 inch decks too. Spoiled fer choice, Young Skywalkers...dont waste a shot....
the 363 was also turbo limited
Thanks for the info on the short deck intake. Although I admit to once owning a new ‘89 LX notchback 5.0 (and daughters had a 4-speed 4-bbl 289 ‘66 in high school), I’m really a Chevy guy.
Brian Dugle : I love production cast iron blocks that dont split when making 1000 hp. Ill bet a DZ Small Block Chevy 302 wont. But Im sure a stroked 5.0 will. Richard showed us that awesome TFS headed turbo F150 5.8 truck engine....it was the special low compression engine he did. It ended up making 1000 hp but, ahem, became junk due to rods, maybee not the block. I have pictures of his smiley face at Four Eyed Pride suggesting some stronger rods before his dyno run blew it up. The modern 82 mm throttle intake upgrade happened in 2001 when Ford Australia made a factory 342 stroker with a kind of Box R upper and lower EFi, the 335 hp net and 369 lb ft T3 Pursuit 250 engine. They reverted to GT40 P iron heads after about 1500 aluminum head Y303 or whatever factory 295 hp 5.0 OHV engines were made. Id say Ford were aware of how little extra strength in reserve existed in the factory 5.0 iron block. Even the 289 Le Mans GT40 Mark II' s with quad Webers making 380 hp gross had a few issues surviving. The race 8.2 inch deck 4.125 siamese block is really nice. Unlike GM, Ford didnt like giving 65 pounds of block iron away for free with every engine. Back to Richard. Love this channel.
Thank you for more Ford builds. 427 low boost small cam is the way to go. 👍 Would like to see the 427 with the EFI you had on the 363.👍
Bigger is always better! I'd like to see more 9.5 deck stock block prepped combos! Once again, why would you limit yourself to that weak ass 8.2 deck! By the time you buy a block that won't split at 500hp you'd be much better off to start with a 9.5 block!
I really like your vedios, but that bs bout it's a 302 is not happening! Not a decade ago even! The 351w block is so much better, you go from a weak 8.2" deck block that won't stay together at 500hp for long to a 9.5" deck block with 5.969 " connecting rods right off the bat! The heavy crank and 3" mains are the only negative side. Noone believes it's a 302!! The only reason to use 8.2 block is a 9.5 block won't fit!! Po boys need to stick with what will stay together!
@@markmccarty9793 When your talking 1000 plus HP a stock block is out of the question for me no matter what the deck height.
@@tomhamilton9140 I agree, but the stock 5 liter blocks aren't gonna stay together long at just 600hp, pass after pass shooting gas!! It's your money, but I just don't understand why you people don't just start with a 9.5 block? I like at least a 1.7 rod/stroke ratio. The dope dealers are gonna out run you either way! The stock 8.2 block is a boat anchor! If you're a dope dealer, you're running a Dart block now anyway! I quit that hobby long ago! The really fast stock appearing cars run on crack!!
@@markmccarty9793 My comment was a 363 that is an aftermarket block from the start. 🤔
Turbos always get hotter then a crank driven charger
Bloodviking
Well boost pressure is a measure of resistance, so ideally, an engine that can make more power with less boost is more efficient and less stressful on the engine itself
Boost isn't necessarily a measure of resistance. For example boosted engines generally use more lift in a camshaft to increase airflow. The reason being because boosted engines aren't as efficient when a camshaft using "overlap" is installed. Valve overlap in a N/A motor uses exhaust pulses to scavenge airflow across the cylinder but in a boosted application just allows air to freely flow out the exhaust manifold requiring a bigger turbo or supercharger to acquire the same cylinder pressures as if using a high lift camshaft instead of a camshaft with lots of valve overlap.
@@jeremypike9153 so when you increase the valve duration and lift you're reducing resistance to flow? Thanks :)
@@mjcmustang You most definitely are reducing the resistance to flow if valve overlap is involved in a "boosted" application only. Overlap hangs both the intake and exhaust valves open for a split second relying on the firing order of the engines other cylinders to help pull air into the combustion chamber which increases power in a naturally aspirated engine but not in a boosted application. True boosted camshafts will have very little valve overlap if any. The reason is that the extra pressure coming into the intake from a supercharger or turbocharger you want to stay in the cylinder for the piston to compress yet again. If the exhaust valve has overlap with the intake valve the pressure from boost blows straight out of the exhaust requiring more pressure to over come the "boost leak" that was created by valve overlap. The concept of boost is to "technically raise" atmospheric pressure mechanically of course. The more pressure you have in the cylinder before it compresses the more the air is compressed during the compression stroke.
Most aftermarket camshafts with extra duration & overlap also have extra valve lift which is why they increase power output compared to an OE camshaft but if overlap is eliminated in a boosted application cylinder pressures are increased resulting in more power than a camshaft comparable with extra valve overlap.
Duration as defined is the amount of time the intake valve is opened as a measurement and the amount of time the exhaust valve is opened as a measurement. Valve lift is how far each valve is opened. Overlap is the amount of time each valve is open at the same time. All of these except for lift are measured in degrees of rotation. Lift itself is measured (at the can lobe itself) how far it transmits the valve train. Lift can be changed on an OE camshaft with different ratio rocker arms or the change of the pivot point on the rocker arm. Duration and overlap are not changeable without changing the shape of the camshaft lobe itself. Most of the time an aftermarket camshaft or set of camshafts (depending on the engine) will come with a card explaining the measurements of at least two of these measurements lift and duration overlap can be mathematically figured if not given on a cam card.
Those are some really nice small block builds
Imagine the bigger heads and cam on the 427 that the 363 had
yes, it would make way more power but I think he doesn't want to hurt Chevy's LS fan boy's feelings with the mighty 351.. The 350 simply cant compete in my opinion..
So a fully built aftermarket turbo motor (any brand) will beat an LS (stock, cammed, turbo LS I assume)? I sure hope so!
@@Turbo_Todd he also did it with a junk yard 351w but didnt gap the rings for boosts.
@@P71ScrewHead Yea, I'm sure that's it... couldn't have anything to do with just fitting the criteria of the video. 🙄
P.S. LS is a designation for a group of engines and not one of them is a 350.
@@BrendanCBreen I mentioned the Chevy 350 cuz when I was way younger I had Chevy lovers tell me the 350 was better than the mighty 351W, obviously everyone's gonna favor the brand they love best, a Dodge guy might pop up n say his version on this similar size engines is better, it's never ending..lol Today's youngsters just know LS 4.8-6.0Ls, tend to not know anything about any other engines that aren't in modern muscle cars..
always go bigger engine less boost; typically less turbo lag and more useable power.
There is no replacement for displacement still rings true in a boosted application
Impressive power from the little and no so little small block henry's.
Junkyard 351, GT40p heads, and Explorer upper intake. Cheap, boost ready, small block ready to make 600+whp
I wanna see what you can do with a Barra
Now THAT would be alot of fun to watch!
So what if you just make a stock bottom end 351w with ring gap and good flowing heads, intake, and cam and BOOST👍
He’s already done it, exceeded 1000hp.
1040 something at
High boost #s are no more than a measuring contest. High boost, while capable of making lots of power, is an inverse relationship to how long it’ll last.
Me? I’m a member of the ‘set it and forget it’ club. Strong build and mild boost keeps the wallet parked.
Good dyno run as always .
I'm not a Ford guy at all... But when it comes to boost I'm for it.. A lil bit hahahaha💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾 good work Rich
You keep me thinking, which is good for the brain . Thank you, I really like what you do !
I was just about too go bed I guess not...
lol, ditto.
Was disappointed you didn’t log boost vs back pressure on this one. That is always interesting on the twin kits.
Bring on the high compression ratio 700+ lift cam, 427 windsor!!🔥🔥🏁🏁
I've wondered about the Procomp/speedmaster Windsor blocks for years, even more interesting seeing you used procomp crank & rods, years ago when I saw the blocks I thought surly can't be as bad as anything Procomp is made out to be, got to be stronger then a old factory block,
i drive a grand national and am running 23 psi on the stock bottom end. Has a ported intake and nice cam in it
Totally would be a cool test a 3.8 turbo Buick?
@@jonathanschrader7881 Yes! If he built it right he could make 1000 hp with forged internals and a stud girdle. What would be cooler is him just taking a bone stock bottom end, race gas, ported heads and intake big turbo and see how far ti goes before the crack breaks in half. They'll break around 700 flywheel hp
I’m in the middle I like using stock bottom ends and making them flow good..
I made 607/565 to the tire, uncorrected on a 302 .40 over with a vortec T trim afr heads in my mustang 15 years ago. it held the record on the local dyno for over 2 years with the stock crank and rods
I made 570/535 on a 306 with the V3sci blower, with room to go. Only running 17 degrees of timing tapering down at 6k rpm.
It's all about the combo.
I'll take the Big'un... All Bundy liked Big' uns and so do I!
what if the 427 stroker had all the gear the 363 had, what do yo think the numbers would be? 363 was kind of gold plated whereas the 427 was the poor cousin if you ask me.
Working on my 4 digit 321 cubed 94 mustang.. boss block 321 4.125 bore and 3.00 stroke ported 170 trick flow heads crane came 228/232 track heat stock 9 to 1 compression .
18 lb of boost twin 64's over a thousand , 28 lb of boost 1350 easy
You should go 205 or 225 heads.
@@CanIbeFrank my 170's were ported by Greg killian he flowed them at 290cfm at .600 lift that will be enough to reach my goals . I run a 1.72 ratio rocker and the crane cam is .552 intake and .563 on the exhaust which puts me right at .600 lift.
Hot dang! Love seeing the multiple tests per episode
Bigger , more power less boost, as long as it’s forged you can turn it up on the smaller motor that’s already maxed out on boost.
If I ever win the Powerball I'm going to bank roll Richard to test every classic muscle car motor so we can get REAL numbers. I'm tired of all the hyperbole around those engines. I love muscle cars and own several but as I watch these videos I learn more and more what was truly a killer and what was a lot of marketing hoopla!
I’d love to see you work your magic on some newer ford engines like the Coyote...
New favorite channel!
@1:42 - I like option #3, more N/A power AND lots of boost! 😎
Great video! I would like to see what the 427 SBF would do with more boost as well. Should make really big power at 20 lbs of boost on e85 or race fuel.
I would build it big and put some sweet Cleveland style heads and go from there! I loved your chi headed modifieds!!!
CHI heads FTW
i like any thing windsor block but there both good
Just a few words: Twin-turbo 351 Windsor w/Cleveland Boss heads. ;)
YES, A Cleveland. that would really scare off the LS guys!!!
Why? Factory Cleveland heads cost a small fortune and suck compared to almost every aftermarket casting that exists. Then you add in all the one off pieces, even if they are common today, and what do you get? You can buy a set of Chinese castings ready to bolt on for less than $1000, if your gonna go all Kung Fu swapping to Cleveland valve angles, try to get a Yates head. The factory iron castings are heavy, old and would cost more to buy bare than a complete aluminum set that might not outflow them at 600 lift, but weigh 60lbs less and have way more compatability with factory parts. As opposed to swapping a whole bunch of stuff to get a fifty year old head to work, why wouldn't you just invest half the money to get a Windsor head that outflows it?
@@timothybayliss6680 Why? Cause Cleveland heads are without a doubt the best small block head ever produced. All the fastest small block Fords use Cleveland style heads. If your on a budget the cast iron head will make great power, if your have don't have a budget then yes buy aftermarket heads. For all out max power, any head will cost a fortune, it all comes down to how fast your pocket book is!
@@timothybayliss6680 "Windsor head that outflows it..." Yeah, I would really love to see an inline valve head outflow an equivalent level canted valve head. Whatever inline valve head you choose and whatever you do with it, it's going to face some mountains it can't climb. Mountains named Blue Thunder and T-Rex. I can't recall any inline valve headed Ford winning the focused competition at Engine Masters. I do know Cleveland headed entries won a number of times, that's why Wood Chuck intimated that LS boys would be worried by a canted valve Ford more than they would by the more pedestrian type. Canted valve Fords have made a pretty regular habit of kicking LS ass in EMC, not counting any other venues. I've currently got 1 Cleveland, 1 B302 and 3 Clevors. I admit, it is hard to come up with the intake I prefer for the B302. The others? No parts compatability issues at all. B302 and 1 302 Clevor (2v heads) run 50 year old iron heads, alright, but 351C, 302 Clevor (4V) and 351 Clevor all run aftermarket aluminum heads, priced better or at least competitively with inline valve Ford heads.
Why not run the 225 heads or bigger on the 427? You ran 225 on the 363, then run 205's on a 427 ? Great video love the info.
I would really like to get a first gen Mustang, take a HiPo 289, swap in forged rods and pistons, some big port aftermarket aluminum heads, a roller rocker turbo cam, dual valve springs with titanium retainers, 1.6 roller rockers, a big single plane tunnel ram intake, head studs, some MLS head gaskets, a multi-port fuel injection system with return, a big 100mm throttle body, a set of 2200cc injectors, two GTX3582R Garretts, a full QA1 coilover suspension and tubular control arm upgrade, and not just drag race it, but also road race it because it'll handle.
Bigger and MORE boost! I want all the boosties
I wouldn't want a .700+ lift cam in a street engine, I know that much. But you can never go wrong with more cubic inches.
Keep it mild enough to survive and be drivable... then add whatever amount of boost is required.
I love this stuff man ! I wish I could be there creating too !
High rpm continously, breaks parts
Stock factory parts are never rise.
Cast parts are all on borrowed time.
Bloodviking
Mr. Holdener, what do you think of the Speedmaster blocks???
Really good prices.
we've used a lot of those
@@richardholdener1727 Can they still be purchased?
@@richardholdener1727 if i got a stock cast iron block from the 80s (347 stroker) is 1k hp possible or do i need a dart block
I hate to be a broken record but I’d like to see the smaller engines make power such as the Chevrolet 283 and Ford 289 it would be even cooler to see a Pontiac 301 With boost 283 would be awesome
Wow! Great test Stich(that is your secret street fighter nickname I have for you.) Thank you for your experienced opinions. You have great knowledge amassed. You are a gear head. I know the vast amount of hard work that you do. I appreciate it. You make great videos one after another. Do you have a book?
I wanna see that 427 combo with dual needle and seat fuel bowls on the csu carburetor and some updated bigger turbos. See what kind of horsepower it will make at all boost levels till it blows the gaskets.
I am curious to know how well a single precision 6466 turbo with a devided .85 t4 housing would work on my 331ci? It is a stock block, 8.3 to 1 compression dished forged pistons, H beam connecting rods, scat crank, AFR 205 heads, F303 cam, nascar series 1.7 roller rockers (544 valve lift), polly locks, pushrods and hydrolic roller lifters, main cap girddle, high pressure oil pump, ported victor jr intake, coil on plug ignition, 44lb injectors. 6300rpm redline.
My hope is that it will work well enough to produce at the very least 450hp. I will upgrade to a second 6466 precision turbo if this works when I swap to a Dart block, forged crank, nastier cam and larger injectors. Everything I built except for the crank, cam and injectors should be able to swap over to the Dart block when the time comes. After those upgrades I will be uping the rpm rang of the engine significantly (med to high 7000s maybe more) and hopeing for at least 1100hp..
This is my first engine build, thought I would try on the stock oem block first before I messed with the expensive aftermarket block. I am ready for turbo selection now for the stock block set up and any helpful advise is greatly appreceated. ✌😅 thank you for your time.
When will you reveal the top secret Ford transmission for 1000hp
Ford C4 Build by Protrans in Texas!!
When one is produced lmao
Ford will sell you the same th400 they use in the cobrajet with ford badging
4R70w will work great if set up properly.
I have a 4R70W built to handle 1200 whp behind a turbo Windsor
Richard, have you ever tested a remote turbo system? Something like the STS setup or similar. I know a couple cars really lend themselves to this kind of setup although some people hate on it pretty hard, other guys really like it. Your opinion on this is about as unbiased as you can get and it would be nice to know what you think.
Look up his test of a turbo Gen 3 Hemi, he simulated a pickup truck with the turbo in the bed.
It worked.
@@johnparrish9215 it's pretty hard to compare a brake dyno to real world or even inertia testing. Test I saw ran between 3500-6000. When the dyno loaded it in the engine jumped to 3700 and the brake dragged the engine down to about 3460rpm over more than 3 seconds. That means before the test even started the engine had already been at wot for almost five seconds. All the extra plumbing and issues that maybe come from a remote mount are basically outright ignored with a brake dyno. Even the difference in exhaust pipe charge time is over 0.1 sec when you put longtubes on a car as compared to cast manifolds, you will never see that on an engine dyno but you will probably notice on a road course. I have seen a few videos with guys beating the strip into submission or trolling the streets, i don't trust anyone else's opinion if they put the name of the kit manufacturer in the video title.
Right on
Come on Richard do a turbo 351 Cleveland we're waiting
I'm with you love them both
Love this! How muchbdo these setups cost approximately?
Very impressive! Being a Chevy guy I never followed the 302. Just had a lot of respect for it for obvious reasons. Lately I’ve been hearing that the 302 blocks crack under high hp????if so what is that hp range??? Never heard of this back in the day. Was very surprised.
North of 500 whp , most people switch to aftermarket blocks if they want to make any serious power .
Angelo Vasilikos : Hello Im a Ford oholic. Ive been one for 40 years. Like Clevelands oil galley issues and thinwall bore splitting, the non Boss Mustang Iron 302 "OHV Ford 5.0" had a block cracking issue even in endurance racing at 350 hp non boosted when the 50 ounce unbalance crank was used. Mexican, Windsor, or Cleveland foundary engines, but generally not the Ford racing XE cast blocks. Real and actual 289 or factory 302s have a lot less iron in the middle. Even the first 230 hp 4v ĢT and J code 302's with 28 ounce unbalance cranks in 1968 had a marginal endurance record in 500 mile races. The 302/5.0 block can take flashes of 500 hp, but its def. marginal. The central core webbing of SBC's and the LS engines were never downgraded as much, and dont carry the same crank unbalance. Info. Australian Touring car racing, Production Group A, C and V8 Supercars. (AVESCO).Ford USA supplied neutral balance steel crank aftermarket blocks to every AVESCO 302/5.0 racer from 1993 to 2003. When production 5.0 blocks were used in 1983 to 1987 in the Australian Touring Car Championship Fox Mustangs, every one eventually cracked. In 4bbl engines that dynoed at just 350 to 390 hp at 6800 rpm.
I’d like to see you test a tick performance towmax stage 2 compared to btr truck cams
But how do they hold up??? From what ive seen, if you run 13 psi or more on a small block ford, the blocks break.
I'll take one of each. Thanx
You should do a big bang with the speedmaster block.
its rarely the block that limits power
@@richardholdener1727 I know but the speedmaster blocks are always a big topic in fb groups. Some say they hold good power others say they arent much better then stock.
Oof bro. Even the cheapest speedmaster blocks they rate at 1500+hp. Your looking at getting a crazy expensive bottom end, like one that won't break until 2500hp and giving it enough airflow just to break it. With the thicker cylinder walls and splayed billet caps there is nothing that sticks out as a weakness and as long as the deck is done right you will have to do something incredibly stupid to break the block. Even to get the power to split a Gen1 race block requires splayed valves, methanol and huge boost or aluminum rods and nitro. It's not a billet dry block so if you treat it like a top fuel engine, the block will probably let go first... But why would you want to? Most of the failures on the blocks I've read about are stripped threads in alloy blocks, and to be fair they're not helicoiled and probably should be. The machining is crap and there are numerous issues with deck warping in race applications and sleeves coming loose when at temperature.
Still, how hard do you think you would have to hit it to split the block or push the mains out?
I'm an engine master and I'll tell you guys not all his engines will survive on the street with any used or stock parts. Fatigue life means alot. 1000 is pushing any stock parts.
Bloodviking
Hey Richard, so I’m wondering why did it take 17lbs to get the 363 to 1000? Hear me out, if it made 519 na, then shouldn’t 14.7 lbs of boost doubled that to 1038 hp? Yet it needed 17 lbs, why is that do you think?
MILD TUNE
HEY, RICH?
HOW ABOUT THAT 427 WHEEZER SET UP ON A 454 CLEVOR?
12-1350 HP?
GOD BLESS,
BRIAN.
HEY, RICH-
WHEN YOU WERE discussing the0p NO po 289.
Sometime back in the early/mid 80s i sae a 3 part mag article show casing a (?) 350 horse 289 sporting 2v cleve toppage.
There was also a 302 set up also.
Quite possibly Joe Sherman....
I have a few additional thoughts to pass on if you'd be interested about canted valves on 4" sbf's.
Thanks for the m code cleve build.
Godbless,
Brian.
I'd be pretty happy with the 427 just the way it is.
how do you adjust for windageI know you put less oil than what the pan recommends but how do you figure out how much wind did you have is it like a vacuum gauge or?
we see it on the dyno as a change in the oil pressure curve and a loss in power
Any chance you could do a test with power output difference between throttle bodies? Compare a undersized vs optimal vs oversized for a particular application. I'm more interested in what happens to output if you oversize a TB.
I've seen this done with heads and carbs but not throttle bodies.
there is no loss in power from an over sized throttle body-go as big as the throttle opening in the intake will allow
So for the price of the Dart 363, you can build five 6.0L cam-only junkyard LS engines that make more power with waaay less camshaft.
I'm "back" ! So how much boost did you need to give the junkyard ? Did you ever see if you'd could make it to a 1000 hp with the stock heads ? And when you used junkyard stock block and displacement and better heads, what kind of boost did you need ? "Very curious" 🦧
Huh! Perfect timing. I'm trying to plan out my motor build and deciding what cam has been a massive brain killer.
Did you need to run different push rods and did you need to do anything with the cabs to make them run with boost?
I have heard that the carb will starve of fuel so was thinking about the sniper EFI system.
Thanks for doing these tests btw!!
pushrod length needs to be measured and the carb run on the turbo motor was a dedicated blow-through carb from CVSU
@@richardholdener1727 thanks, so I looked up that cam on comps website and it says it needs to be computer controlled?
On your junkyard 351W which heads and cam did you use? Did you have to fly cut the pistons to clear the valves?
i did notch pistons for valves-afr heads
So, what's the cost difference and maybe fuel economy if you were to drive it ? Yes and someone was thinking durability. Both should be a ton of fun to drive !?
427 twin turbo for me
Richard, what would your opinion be on the Procomp/Speedmaster I-beam rods ? Great value? or stay away?
we used them-they work
Richards says they work but for how long and at what cost? The old adage you get what you pay for applies here. I would NEVER skimp on bottom end parts. Cost of failure is too high.
Sub 600 hp, sub 7000 rpm
I see what you did there with your puns👌. Talking about making a tonne of power with motors spec'd to make 1000BHP...😐
glad someone was paying attention
Also new to turbos I hear that turbo lag is a thing of the past? Or is I just greatly reduced? Building a sport touring car. Not a drag car so I would like it to be as responsive as possible.
Turbos have gotten better but mainly its been the large selection of turbo sizes and additional technology like anti lag and quick spool valves, and multi step boost controllers that reduce lag.
you can size the turbo to come on at any rpm
what compression ratio's on these motors?
A general "add ring gap question". Do you re use the existing rod bearings ?? Might sound like a dumb Q, sorry if so :-).
Dickie me boy you need to take that 351 combo and swap some chi 3v heads on it then double up the 76's >;) Am I evil? No I just like lots of horsepower.
U mean 4v heads
@@kevinjohnson9372 3Vs refers to aftermarket canted valve heads that have port sizes reduced compared to production 4V heads for virtually same same flow rates available but with higher velocity due to the reduction in area. Coined by Aussies, of course, with their inimitable style for nicknames and abbreviations.
You try a inline 4.2 chevy out of a trailblazer
So when you say “add ring gap”, how much ring gap is appropriate? Do you add more ring gap for 20lbs or boost than you would for 10 or 15? And if you are planning to boost the motor eventually, but not right away, how much is the added ring gap going to hurt compression or oil consumption, or anything like that?
Mr richard i love watching you and listening i have a 351 dart block chi cleveland type heads holley fuel injection 13 .5 to 1 compression that dynoed out at 806 hp on pump gas and 1043 hp with 100 shot of nitrous everybody i talk to is surprised that i get that much hp on pump gas whats your thoughts
Did I hear something about bigger turbos and more boost at the end? OK then, do it to it!
I think this is a great informative video as I'm a foxbody owner and enjoy seeing options for more powa, but going 427 is a very pricey option and I've been leaning towards the 351W base and stroke it to the 408 or 416 with boost!! With that being said, Richard what is a safe reliable HP number and Boost pressure to pump out of a stock block 351W while being reliable and having good longevity from this type of setup?(I built a 306 and am planning on running my vortech with about 10-12 PSI and methanol injection for cooling of IATs and reliability BUT this setup is only temporarily until I build a 351 based engine and I want to go turbo and methanol injection with that setup)
you don't need a 408 with boost
@@richardholdener1727 so you're saying I could build reliable 800-1000 on a 351W built around a proper cam with the supporting mods ie. Springs, heads, intake and of course the trusty "ring gap" and a turbo to meet that goal? What turbo or turbos would you suggest? Which cam, heads and intake would you also build the 351 with? Also is the factory 351W bottom end going to support everything or do I need an upgraded cranks, rods etc.??
here is the deal with 1,000hp power 351w is how long will it last even with a great tune, no timming just turn the boost up, show me where someone is running a 351w at a thousand horsepower, stock block 351
no timming?
@@richardholdener1727 my bad i thought timming plus boost things go boom because the cylinder pressure with added timming
About to throw the 408 mopar with Indy MAX heads together. What’s the turbine A/R on the 76’s? Need to figure out what turbos I want for 1000-1200 with keeping exhaust back pressure low. Running ultragate 38’s and a very port. Should I up the gates and should I add another bov?
Are the alloy block LS engines weaker than the iron ones? Big Bang test please.
@Richard Holdener any recommendations on a "off the shelf" solid roller boost cam for a 347?
WHY SOLID?
Rpms brother! Let it sing!
Say you find a junkyard 351, and you refresh it to OE specs on the short block but add ring gap. How should you go on the bottom end? Is it a limit of horsepower or is it a limit of boost?
I don't want to make a 1000hp I want to make 2000!
Do the same test on 90% nitro
hey: self tuning efi vs carb vs your holley efi. on victor jnr or tunnel ram or factory type manifold
Why not run the bigger na motor with 17 lbs of boost and blow by 1000 hp. More power still isnt enough
I don't know why but I always love an underdog, not necessarily a Ford but even a SBF woopin a coyote is sweet. But one of my dream engines is a 7.4L SBC or even a 7.0, spankin LS engines with a SBC would just be sweet where alot of people act like SBC nowadays is a boat anchor, not that it's better than the LS it is one of the best engines ever made and very capable and can go toe to toe with LS engines just needs alot more go fast parts to compete , if it was such trash why would World make a hybrid SBC block to take LS heads and World claims it's superior...? Calm down everyone I didn't say it they did.😉
it is not important that one engine family be better than another-just figure out what power you want-every engine can make make power
Richard Holdener : Yeah yaaaa!
Small block chevy still has the biggest supply of aftermarket parts and stuff is super cheap . Where the LS shine is that they are able to handle big power in stock form . All you need is springs, cam and boost - boom 1000hp .
Single pattern vs dual pattern cam turbo horsepower
Never wise
So earlier I heard you (Richard Holdener) say that "generally" in an engine making more torque than horsepower this is caused by an airflow restriction. My question is does this same logic apply to boosted engines specifically turbocharged engines? My focus st from ford made 252hp & 270ftlbs of torque would this be the cause of an airflow restriction?
I realize any airflow modifications would require a "retune" to take advantage of. Would you recommend a bigger turbo and more fuel/retune or just focusing on airflow improvements and a retune?
I’m here waiting on the 4.7L dodge
Keep waiting haha
I've seen only two built ones and they were strong enough to give any 4.8 Chevy or 4.6 Ford more then they could handle.
They kinda died on the vine. They weren't too popular, but that means there is millions waiting to get swapped into my miata. I don't know how durable the bottom end it but that's why we have big bang tests.
What are the price points for those builds? I'm interested in building one of your setups.