Vanagon Cylinder Head Gasket Removal and Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2024
- After many, many years of wanting to do a video about replacing the heads and gaskets on a VW Vanagon, I finally got this one together. Please enjoy it! Please support us by purchasing your parts for this job from us. Here are the links to the parts you will need:
www.vanagain.com/shop/brand-ne...
www.vanagain.com/shop/complete... 
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Thank you so much for this video got my weekend plans now
Thank you for posting this. This video gave me the visual I needed to make sense of the head install.
As always, thanks for your time. When I need heads, I'll send the order your way.
Thanks for all the informative content on VW work! I have a wasserboxer T3 Westie and it's great to get some guidance on how to do some of the work myself. It's much appreciated!
refreshing to hear this engine referred to by it's real name . most idiots call it a waterboxer .
nice video!
please add to make sure the welded seams of the push rod tubes are facing up!
Excellent 👍🏻 Thank you.
good video help me a lot
Aid in centering push rods in lifters;.. apply grease to push rods when inserting and feel them going into the center of the lifters, the grease will keep them there so they do not fall out prior to installing rocker arms!
hi thanks for this video its just the info i needed. Just one question the spec for the cap nuts is 37ftlb why do you go against the spec and use 40?
If you spend some time looking at the Subaru boxer headgasket problems videos, you see that one solution is to add a closed deck to the top of the water jacket, or to pin the sleeves in the waterjacket. It is interesting to me that the Waterboxer has the sleeves freestanding. It would seem that if this were to promote the sleeves vibrating against the head, this would be a source for corrosion due to micro-cavatation hence failure.
Subaru reference here: Pinned sleeves:www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/2.5motor/someprogress3.jpg
Closed deck: www.outfrontmotorsports.com/engine_blocks.htm
I wonder if anyone has tried either of these with the waterboxer - or even welding the two sleeves together for more rigidity.
In the future can you make a video on rebuilding the engine? Their are no videos on youtube on rebuilding the waterboxer. Thx. Great videos and shop!
+Jordan Scott I would love to do this however I would really need to fund this somehow. I love making videos for the Vanagon community and wish I could do it more but it needs to be funded because, a rebuild video would be several chapters long, and it would take lots of time to do. If someone can suggest a way to fund a video like that, please let me know.
Thanks for the video ! Perhaps once I settle into relocating I work directly with you in restoring my vanagon
Please could you tell me the Victor Reinz sealant name/part number for the cylinder head cup nuts? I’ve purchased a Elring gasket set that doesn’t come with any sealants 😏
And when you install the push rod tubes make sure that the welding seam of the tubes faces up @ 12 O Clock!
+Liberty Patriot Yes. Unless you are using the Collapsible Push Rod Tubes we sell which have no seams.
What happens if they're not at 12 oclock?
I would like to say it is definitely possible to replace the black o-ring at the bottom of the piston cylinder. Gently stretch it around the jug and carefully roll it down toward the center of the case. The jug can be taken out of the block far enough without worry of piston rings popping out of the cylinder but enough to access the o-ring. Then using a variety of picks extract the old o-ring. Proceed to clean the groove as well as possible; continue placing the new black o-ring. A light layer of oil or petroleum jelly added keeps the ring supple.
+Andrew Vinzant Andrew, anything is possible! I am an optimist! However the outside of the cylinders are very rough and usually covered with scale if they have been in there for a while. Oiled up o-rings are super easy to nick or cut and I just don't think the risk is worth the reward. Leave the old o-rings in place which has always worked for me (not one failure in over a hundred jobs) or take the chance of nicking or over stretching a new o-ring just to say I replaced it. It is possible but not something that I do or recommend.
I appreciate the work put into this video. I followed the advise and did not change the lower O-ring and was too timid to pull the sleeves out far enough to inspect them. 3 of the 4 failed and when I added coolant it came out the oil dip stick. Bathing the crank case in coolant. I would highly recommend pulling out the sleeves enough to, at the very least, inspect the lower O-ring before going forward with the head gasket repair. I would also recommend adding coolant to the system first with the oil drain plug out so you know ASAP if there is an issue.
Nice video. I have troubles with mine, the exhaust valve seats have come out of place. I might bring them to a machine shop, or just buy a new head. The engine was new since 2016. Would i just have to replace the bad one (right hand side) or both?
You could just replace the one side head, but I would remove both and have the other side checked at a machine shop. Also new gaskets on both sides.
Great video, just a question about pushrods seating. what would happen if the engine was run without a pushrod seated correctly ? would it cause damage to the valve ? and are all the pushrods identical length as I've seen people number them 1-4 as they remove them.
cheers
Usually if you don't install the push rods centered in the lifters, the engine will not run on that cylinder. If you really mess things up, you could bend the rod. They will normally bend before the valves but I always turn things through by hand after doing work to ensure problems don't happen. All of the pushrods are the same length. No need to number them.
great video, very helpful! unfortunately years of the previous owner running the wrong coolant caused my piston jugs to be seized to the head. I had no choice but to pull them out with the head. any advice on a ring compressor I could use while the engine is in the car to compress them and slide the jug back on without having to take out the Pistons or the engine from the car? seems like it's tricky but possible... thanks for any input
best regards
Cody
+Cody West I have used a wide hose clamp to do this in the past but it is difficult. It is easier to pull the Pistons and use a normal ring compressor.
thanks for the info. easier to take out the pistons with the rods or taking them out via the wrist pin? Thanks again!
+Cody West If you use a swivel you can pull the rods. If it is a 1.9l you could get away with new rod bearings. If it is a 2.1l you should use rebuilt rods too.
Van-Again just wanted to let you know I figured out how to use a compressor on the rings and was fairly easily able to get the sleeves back on without taking the Pistons out! you need the compressor with the C style bands that open up and pliers that freely pivot. I'm so stoked to get it back together! thanks for conversing with me about it, it's great to share info with other vanagon heads!
Thanks for letting me know. I thought about trying to get one of these the last time I was dealing with this, but then I wound up just pulling the rods instead and doing new pistons and cylinder and rings. Glad you got it sorted.
Kenneth,
Can this video apply to both driver side and passenger side cylinder heads?
Yes they are symetrical
Thank you, I get mine from GoWesty. Haven't got a bad one yet from them🙏
Thanks for putting this video up! I am planning on doing this on my cylinder head that's on the passenger side as I am seeing the water jacket gasket has a small build up of fluid. I have a 1988 Vanagon GL and was wondering if this video would be similar to what I would expect when go to do this job? What year is yours?
Yes this video covers all waterboxer engines from 83.5-91.
Can you have the water jacket machined so you have a nice level surface? Or would that cause leaks?
+rubatoguy You can't machine the water jacket. That would change the head clearance and not allow it to seal properly.
I'm not replacing my head gasket but I just want to know why to not use the click type torque wrench,can I use the click type to tight the rocker arm assembly up ????(you k ow for the lifters)thanks
+Κώστας Λεούσης The Bentley manual specifically says not to use that on the head studs. Anything else, you can use it if you want.
Van-Again thanks !!!i wish you a happy new year
At 4:30 in the video you mention how you don't want to pull the cylinder off with the head. So, I did that by accident. Not all the way out but maybe 2 inches. Can I just push it back on? Or???
+banksyjb You should be fine pushing it back. Just wiggle the cylinder a little while pushing and it should go back. If you it won't then you may have a problem. Usually a couple inches isn't enough to come past the rings unless the piston was at the very bottom of it's stroke.
Help, replacing my cylinder heads on my 86 2.1liter vanagon, wondering which rings to use one the cylinder sleeve/ jugs . Green and black came in the kit. Old ones were black. The green ones in the kit are smaller diameter
Green goes on the top and black on the bottom
Thanks for the quick reply, I thought it might have the wrong one used previously
Are head gaskets a couple failure of the water boxer. I just bought a Vanagon and it is blowing steam out the pipe. So my guess is head gasket/gaskets.
1975Kombi1 Yes, that is either a bad head gasket or a cracked head.
Thanks for making this video . I have purchased a 1986 2.1, the motor has sized from sitting for years . I have tried penetration oil in the cylinder heads and filled the block with diesel fuel and let it sit . still wont budge . My next move is to pull the heads and clean up the cylinders and then maybe tap the pistons with a wooden block and a hammer . Am I wasting my time ? any suggestions ? thanks
I would try to pull the heads before you give up on it. Could just be a stuck valve or dropped valve seat.
@@VanAgain Thank you so much for taking the time to help
@@VanAgain So I have the heads off .the motor is clean inside and no ridge around top of barrels . Three of the four barrels wanted to come off with the heads . the forth I broke free from the block and I can rotate it back and forth a bit . So I think the pistons are ok . I still can not rotate it using a big wrench on the pully bolt . So should it not rotate that way ?? I am going to need new heads as the header pipe bosses are rotted and broken off and most of bolts snapped off in the heads .Are they all like this were the steel rots in the aluminum ? Can You ship parts to Canada ?? Thanks for your help
If the cylinders don’t come completely off can you just push back on? And won’t have to pull pistons
Yes. Very little force should be needed. If you have to use force then you probably pulled it out past the rings.
Can you do this while the engine is still in the car?
Yes you can. That is how I usually do it.
Thanks
I have a 1.9 DG WBX that I have owned & serviced for 30 years. It’s done around 130K but now it’s started smoking on overrun going down hill. I’ve changed the breather tower which made no difference. What do you think it could be?
I would check your throttle position switch to be sure it is clicking at closed throttle. That shuts off the injectors when you are over 2000 rpms on deceleration. If the injectors don't shut off then that could cause the smoking. Black smoke is fuel, blue is oil.
@@kennethwilford9616 Hi, thanks for getting back so quickly. This is a carburettor engine. The smoke is blue & a lot of it when the throttle is opened up when back on the flat.
@@iansouch Is it overfilled with oil? If not then you most likely have a ring issue. I usually don't fill the oil above half way on the stick.
@@kennethwilford9616 I always keep the oil halfway up the dipstick. I’ve bought new AMC heads because I was thinking worn valve guides might be causing the overrun oil burning & I think I might have a head gasket problem as I have lots of white smoke on start up sometimes & coolant is being pushed slowly into the overflow tank. When I have removed the heads, what should I look for regarding worn piston rings?
Look for lines on the cylinder walls. Remove cylinders a check for broken or stuck rings. Check ring end gap for tolerance.
what if the cylinders do come up with the head?
You will have to pull the pistons which is a major pain.
@@VanAgainThanks for the response. oh no thats what I was afraid of. the mechanic thats working on my vw said they wobbled when he pulled the head, and he was acting like he might not have to pull the pistons. But you are saying you definitely would?
If the cylinders came off beyond the rings then yes you would have to pull the pistons, compress the rings and reinstall. But if they didn't come out far enough to go past the rings then you can push them back down and be fine.
I don't own one but can you change the head gaskets with the engine still in the van?
jpra64 Yes it is a little easier out of the van on an engine stand but I have done them many times in the van.
Already got a super quick response from Ken, but I just took mine off in my '84 van yesterday. Really not bad at all. Haven't reassembled yet. Seems they use sealant on the head's stud threads. I think that was getting jammed up when I tried to pull the heads off - they didnt slide of the studs easily - lots of wiggling
Okay cool just wondering cause i was looking at a 87 vanagon that needs headgaskets but i think it could of been overheated and possibly needs replacement heads. How were those AMC heads?
how much* its monday :)
+jpra64 The AMC heads are better than OE. They are $475 each plus $149 for the engine gasket set. So a little over $1000 in parts to replace both heads and gaskets. Labor is usually 10 hours. We charge $125 per hour.
I always replace the lifters now when rebuilding a motor. Lifter noise is the most irritating noise on start ups and it's a cheap part to replace.
Just be careful. Not all lifters are created equal. I have seen some with bad heat treating on the bottom and then they wear out and eat into the case and camshaft. I never replace them unless they are being noisy and taking a long time to pump up on start up.
How much would you charge to do this job on my 1986 vanagon 2.1? Thanks
10 hours labor plus parts. Just gaskets, Around $1500 minimum. With new heads around $2500.
Howard much does it cost me to repair a Volkswagen vanagon 1.9 engine 3238758766
Nice clean hands... Building Engines for 15 years and never replace the lower oring?! Guess you never had one bad enough that the head got stuck and had to be removed with the cylinder ;) You should jump to the 21st century with your ancient torque wrench "Mechanic" Btw its not 1/4 turn past 0, i always do 1.5 and never had a problem with valves sticking open
If you are rebuilding the engine or if the cylinders have to come off, of course you will have to replace the lower o-rings. If the cylinders stay in place then you can get away with not doing it. That was my point. The torque wrench can't be the click type (per Bentley). Doing the torque with the engine in the van is tight and it is hard to see the torque value from the side. With the beam type wrench you can see the torque value looking at the handle of the wrench which is the position that you wind up in most of the time if it is in the engine bay. I would have done the video in the engine bay but I wanted better light and position to make the video. That is why I did the replacement out of the van. Usually I do it in the van. Finally, the valve lash is a known issue with the waterboxer engine. It was so much of an issue that the Bentley Manual changed the procedure. So, I am glad you can "always" set it to a certain value and be fine. However that isn't the case all the time. That is why I advocate setting it at less value. Lumpy idle and poor performance in cold weather are the symptoms of improperly adjusted valves. If you live in a warm climate you may not ever experience this. Thanks for your valuable input.
@@VanAgain I use a digital torque wrench for this job. No clicks, just beeps ;-) I go 10, 30, 40, 50 Nm, then 50 again (held a few seconds on the beeper) to make sure they're all nice and even. As for hydro tappets, I always use 2 turns for new KS lifters, and 1.5 for any other brand, or resetting old ones.
I got one of those recently too. Haven't had a chance to use it on the head gasket job yet
worthless wasserboxer engine. the very definition of "boat anchor"
John Dagastino shut up already! why are you looking at these blogs then if you hate em. Negative Nancy, go drive your 2000 corolla out of here.