Cylinder Head & Gasket DIY Procedure - Toyota 5VZ-FE - Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2015
- This 6 part series walks through the very detailed procedure for diagnosing and replacing a cracked cylinder head and head gasket on a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with the 3.4 liter 5VZ-FE V6 engine.
This engine was widely used by Toyota from the mid 1990's through 2004 in the Tacoma, Tundra, T-100, 4Runner, and Land Cruiser. Therefore, this repair procedure should be common to all of those vehicles with the same engine.
Due to the detail presented in this video series, it is also a good reference for doing other repairs such as changing the antifreeze/coolant, timing belt, valve cover gaskets, camshafts, alternator, spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil packs, vacuum hoses, exhaust manifolds, belts, hoses, cooling fan, and various intake gaskets.
Part 1 - Diagnosis & Initial Disassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 2 - Intermediate Disassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 3 - Final Disassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 4 - Cylinder Head Removal, Inspection, & Replacement
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 5 - Initial Reassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 6 - Final Reassembly & Wrap-up
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Here is the tool review for the OTC Universal Pulley Holder that was used in this video series to tighten the camshaft pulley bolts and to install the service bolt in the exhaust camshafts.
• OTC Universal Pulley H...
Here is the my total cost breakdown...
Parts:
$325.00 rebuilt cylinder head (www.ebay.com/str/headsonly)
$138.00 gasket set
$25.00 cylinder head bolts
$23.00 valve shims
$10.00 fuel injector electrical connector
$16.00 antifreeze
$537.00 Parts Total
Tools:
$54.00 OTC universal pulley holder
$80.00 factory service manual
$7.00 oil can
$7.00 blow gun nozzle
$20.00 torque angle gauge (skip this and just make a mark on the bolt heads with a silver Sharpie)
$76.00 machinist's steel straight edge
$34.00 valve adjusting tool
$278.00 Tools Total
$815.00 Grand Total
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With the right tools and some patience, it really is not a very difficult job. 
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I'm amazed you were able to get those exhaust manifold nuts off so easily. They're normally completely rusted & fused into the studs.
Fantastic series. The instructions were clear, the angles were good, the editing was wonderful and the thoroughness was incredible. I now feel confident in working on my pickup. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this so well. One of the best I've ever seen with this amount of detail. Thank you again.
This video is a true blessing and is going to save me a ton of time. I purchased a 2001 Tacoma with the 5VZFE engine and it had a suspected blown head gasket. Well, come to find out, it was a hole in the radiator. But the man I bought it from didn't know that, so he disassembled the entire engine and removed the head from the passenger side and didn't bother to bag and tag or mark any of the bolts, hoses or fittings. So this video is going to help me identify the correct bolts and where they go and the electrical connectors too. Just the small things you took the time to do, like taking the bolts out and holding them in front of the camera will go a long way for me in identifying parts and with putting this thing back together. Thanks for such an informative and well thought out video and taking the time to concentrate on all areas of the disassembly and reassembly. Well done sir...
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. Good luck in getting yours back together. Let us know how it goes.
You are one of the most detailed mechanics I've seen on RUclips, very nice job.
I followed along and successfully changed out the knock sensors. I probably would not have attempted it without your excellent instructional video. No more codes thrown! Thank you!!
Thanks for your kind comments. I really appreciate it. Another DIY victory for the good guys!
Got this recommended by RUclips algorithm from watching valve cover gasket replacements ('02 v6), and decided to learn more. Got to say I'm amazed at your ability to go this far into the engine on your own and be very detailed on each step. Thank you for making this series!
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
You sir are awesome. I have an 04 Tacoma with the same engine. Minor differences but this still helps me a lot! Thank you
Bless you sir! Thank you for the painstakingly detailed steps and great video. You gave me the inspiration to fix my Tacoma.
Did you end up tearing that taco down and making her whole again?
Amazing step-by step instruction yet not tedious. Thank you!!!
Good video, thanks for the time to edit it and keep the work going for the veiwers... I know this takes time and effort. Good job. I also like the colored dots on hoses, etc. You must have an entire paint pen set, haha. Keep up the great videos; subscribed!
You’re the best I’ve seen great detail, keep doing work on this vehicle this is one of the popular engines I own 2 of them, this really helps
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Thank you for the video. I love your dotted color coordination of the hoses which I will be using for the intake gasket removal I will be replacing soon.
Extremely well done sir, spot on with all your details and very quick and to the point. Couldn’t have done it better myself.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Now to part 3!
Great job
Thank you very much,
Removing the cam bolts trick worked for me. You are the man!
Thanks for making these videos! Huge Help!
wow, this is one of the best I've seen
Thanks for your help.
Hey thanks so much for taking the time to document this. Doing the gasket on a 3rd gen 4runner with close to 300k
Be sure to share your experience and let us know how it went as compared to mine.
Great idea using different colors of paint for the hoses!
Thank you ! Great video rebuilt engine from pistons up. Excellent tutorial ! 2004 taco trd 4x4 4 man cab with 280k like new again.
That's great and good work! Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
The best video the best details and great instructor !! Awesome!
FYI everyone out there I bought a tool on amazon that allows you to reset the cam belt tensioner before removing the belt which saves you all the hassle of removing the AC compressor and the tensioner itself. That’s a pain in job if u no what I’m saying. This video is awesome. You know I couldn’t find a shop that wanted to do the job in the first place unbelievable they wanted a few thousand up front then no set price a time and parts job and no guarantee on work. 280k miles still looked new well taken care of truck. Just a blown head gasket and cracked head after removal. I decided to replace both heads new complete, cams and all, then I said might as well do it right. I replaced water pump, belts hoses, injectors, radiator, wires, coils, plugs, throttle body, painted everything pretty and I had a complete rebuild from pistons up. A brand new OEM head I got for 500 clams each from a place in Florida. Great place great service. In close thanks to this guy and his video I did the job myself for a few grand and have my truck running like new again for another few hundred thousand.
You sir are a Top notch mechanic
im mainly watching because how easy your making it look. I’m also here because i want to know how to actually remove the head lol. Ive done everything on my engine except removing the head for future work
Can you remove both heads at same time on a 93 V6 3.0 motor by keeping the front timing cover an back crossover pipe on without removing the cam shafts?
I have to replace head gaskets
This dudes a beast!
What kinda lubricant you use to bust off those exhaust bolts? Those suckers are super tough
impressive video making
Great video. Used this to change knock sensor harness and intake gaskets on my truck last weekend. Quick question tho. Is that an actual sensor or just some type of ground at 19:35?
Good question. Looking back, you're probably right that it was a simple ground connection.
Did u use sharpies to make the color coding so u wouldn't forget whr hoses went. I'm wondering wht to use so I can do this myself as well, plz. Thank you.
I think that paint pens would probably work better than traditional sharpies. I just made colored dots with acrylic craft paint that we had on hand. I also took lots of detailed pictures during disassembly which proved to be the best reference for reassembly. You can also just make simple labels with masking tape and write a letter or number on each mating piece.
Another tip for exhaust and crossover 12mm nuts is using a 1/2 Rachet in the open end of your 12 mm wrench. That helped me get one of those pesky nuts off on My 3vze.
Going to be replacing the Exhaust manifolds on my 03 Tacoma w/ the 5vzfe.(Installing TRD headers) Would you suggest heating them up w/ a torch 1st? I already plan on soaking the bolts in Aerokroil or pB Blaster.
+Qmed Joe After a long soak with PB Blaster, I'd give those exhaust manifold studs a careful go with hand tools first to see if they're going to be stubborn. If so, perhaps go easy with an impact to see if they'll break free. Resort to heat if the former has a serious risk of breaking the studs off. As seen in the video, mine came out pretty easily.
worsethanchiggers Thank you sir! I'll give her a go. Mine look in pretty decent condition so hopefully nothing breaks...me and easy outs don't like each other;)
Job is finally done! I finished two nights ago and had the exhaust shop weld a two bolt flange to the cat. (99's-04's came with three bolt flanges on the y-pipes to cats.) I installed the headers and they sound beautiful! The studs on the engine came right out but the y-pipe not so much, so I cut it with a sawzall on the passenger side and it came right out. Thanks again for your video as it helped me gain the confidence to tackle such a difficult task.
I have been doing auto repair for years and it has never occurred to me to use colored paint to mark my vacuum hose connection.... You learn something new everyday they say.... What kind of paint are u using
Yea, it helps to avoid those "Now where did that go?" moments. :) I just used a cheap set of acrylics from the craft section at Walmart.
very good A++
Recently had gaskets done too . Engine temp gauge not working?? Which plug is it or something else
The gauge is not working at all? Perhaps they didn't plug the electrical connector back into the coolant temperature sensor. Or, if the gauge is working but continues to show cold, it could be that the thermostat is stuck open or reinstalled incorrectly.
thx...do you have 1zz-fe corolla(2003-08)mine 2006 thx
Not I.
Incredible video! Where did you find the cylinder head?
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. I got my cylinder head from a seller called headsonly on ebay.
hoping you will a video to change the timing chain gasket for that model...thx for kindness
I would like to help but the 5VZ-FE engine does not have a timing chain but rather a timing belt. Which gasket are you asking about? Perhaps you mean the valve cover gaskets or the seals on the plastic upper and lower timing belt covers?
jirojoseph esman timing chain gasket wtf are you talking about ....
Can you tell me the diameter, pitch and length of the Exhaust manifold studs and the crossover pipe to exhaust manifold studs? I would like to purchase a tap and die to clean mine up.
I seem to remember they were different sizes. I recommend just getting a full metric tap and die set. I like the quality and value of the sets made by Irwin.
Where is the valve flash video you mention but didnt include in this series?
Valve flash video? Are you referring to the video on adjusting valve clearances?
I had a bitch of a time getting my crankshaft bolt off... finally used an old lawnmower blade with two bolts which fit the crankshaft pulley and used a ratchet strap to hold it solid.. even though not part of this specific top end procedure, when the headgasket went i figured u would change out the timing belt and waterpump while i was in there deep
Awesome videos btw...
Most intense accurate videos available to do this at home... 5 out of 5!!!
These videos are better than the official manual!
Do you need to have the piston on the exhaust stroke before you take off the cams and what not?
On this engine, there are dots on the camshaft gears that must be lined up before removing or installing the camshafts. See part 3 of this video series where I talk about that during disassembly and again in part 4 during reassembly.
worsethanchiggers Okay thanks, I have the timing belt lined up with the cams, I just wasn't sure if it matter what stroke the pistons were on as long as they were top dead center. Great videos btw
Amazing video series! You just blew my mind with technique to loosen the Cam Sprockets without a Specialty Tool.. Very nice!
Any chance of the trick bolt getting damaged in the process?
Not likely if you're careful and have the socket firmly seated.
@@WorseThanChiggers Cool.. By the way, I’m not sure what your FSM mentions in regards to the position of the thermostat valve for your truck, but for the 4Runner, which has the same engine 3.4L V6, it states to place the valve at 6 o’clock instead of 12 o’clock. Even though what you mentioned (of letting air through) made sense. It was well documented that coolant temperature actually drops a good 10-12 degrees with the jiggle valve at the South position. Just wanted to let you know.
@@Mike_44 Indeed you are correct and thanks for clarifying this for the viewers. This has come up before and I installed mine upside down in the video but corrected it per the FSM at a later date. However, despite what the FSM says, there are wide differences of opinion as to how to orient the jiggle valve. I certainly agree with whatever the respective FSM says.
@@WorseThanChiggers No prob. It would be a good idea when ever the part of the video comes up that you’re talking about the thermostat, to simply place some notes on the video at that minute. Just a thought 👍🏻 Btw, I really like how thorough and neatly you worked on that engine. You did a fantastic job! I need to do a valve cover gasket job & T/B service on my 4Runner, I will use your video series for guidance.
hows the gasket going to this point is the engine still running ? how many KMS/miles has it done then and now
It was still running great at 255,000 miles when, sadly, I had to sell it due to the dreaded frame rust problem that plagued early Tacomas. It failed to pass our state's annual safely inspection. RIP, trusty old friend.
I could not remove the camshaft pulleys that way that did not happen the way it did for you. Any other ideas
Get a pulley holder such as this: ruclips.net/video/j_TfAACwJac/видео.html
Hi me again, so I had all Cams and crankshaft TDC and was in the prosses to taking of the sprockets and the R cam got misaligned. So I spinned the cam independently so it can match the markings but they never aligned but eventually go it to stay. My concerned is did misaligned something or bend valves by moving the cam independently. Please help I haven't done this work before but Im trying to learn as I go and you have a ton experince on this thank you!
Keep up the good work. You are doing fine. On some cars, turning the cams independently from the crankshaft can cause damage. But, if you have the same engine as in this video, you do not have to worry. This is a non-interference engine which means that the valves will not touch the pistons and there is no risk of bending valves.
@@WorseThanChiggers thank you partner you give me confidence👍
Crap “ looks like I have a big job coming my way after seeing thick white smoke coming out of my tailpipe today “ FML
Great Video! Helped me find out i needed a new engine lol
I’ve managed to get two exhaust manifold crossover bolts out but the third is killing me. Used penetrating oil, breaker, and every bit of me i can get on it. Anybody got any advice??? Short of towing it to a rack and lifting it up. Thanks in advance!!!
Sounds like it may require some serious heat from an acetylene torch or grinding it off. The latter would require replacing the stud (ugh).
worsethanchiggers got it! May need a video on rebuilding a shoulder but for now I’m moving to the other side! Thanks!
Can you tell me how long was the project and all the additional parts that should be replaced with a new headgasket?
The project took me 3 months. Don't be scared by that. I was in no hurry, did it in 30 minute sessions on some weekends over the dead of winter, all while setting up cameras and lighting to record the whole thing. I think that I could have really done it over a couple of long weekends in better weather with with all the right information and parts in hand. If you're only doing the head gasket, you should only need the full head gasket kit and replacement cylinder head bolts. Definitely take the head to a machine shop to be inspected and resurfaced. You're really asking for trouble if you skip that most important step. But while you're that deep into it, you should also consider replacing the timing belt and water pump if they're anywhere near coming due.
@@WorseThanChiggers Thank you so much for your reply. Should I be concern if the car has overheated before where replacing the headgasket would not help? I don't know if the car has overheated before but it can be driven with some misfiring only on acceleration and not overheat with the cooler temperature. it' a very nice condition, no rust, 2001 4runner with 190k but just with the engine issue. got the price down to $3500.
Are you sure that it has a blown head gasket or is that just speculation due to the misfire? If the car overheated before, it did so for a reason and you should determine why. It could have been from a stuck thermostat, coolant leak, inoperative cooling fan, etc. Likewise if the head gasket failed, it did so for a reason and you again should determine why. Overheating can certainly warp a cylinder head resulting in a head gasket leak. Simply replacing the head gasket without addressing the cause would be foolish and would likely soon lead to another blown head gasket. So, always take the head to a machine shop for inspection and resurfacing. In my case, the cylinder head was cracked and I didn't discover that until the machine shop pointed it out. It is also possible that severe overheating could warp the top of the engine block. Be sure to check that with a precision straight edge as I did. Those are fairly expensive but also a mandatory step. You probably got a good buy on that vehicle. The misfire could be something as simple as a bad plug, wire, coil, or fuel injector. You'll probably be able to pull the misfire code with a code reader and determine which cylinder is affected. If that points you to one particular cylinder, swap parts between that and a good cylinder to see if the code moves. Then you'll know what part is bad. Hopefully it's not caused by low compression on one or more cylinders. That'd be a bigger problem. Good luck!
@@WorseThanChiggers - I'm just assuming that it's a headgasket issue. The seller stated to drop symptoms for me that all lead to headgasket. But no white smoke yet, that's what he says. Going to pickup the car this weekend. He asked 6k, I pointed out headgasket and he accepted my 3.5k offer. The body is in extremely good condition. And he say it should be able to make the 200 mile trip, only issue is slight misfiring, no idle issue, coolants hasn't needed to be topped off, and not running hot. Hope I can make it back. Really appreciate all your insight.
Good luck with the trip and the project. Keep us posted on your findings.
I can't get one of the nuts off the stud that attaches the exhaust manifold to the crossover pipe. I have tried pb and vice grips, but nothing works. Any suggestions?
Oh, man. I feel for you. Rusted/frozen exhaust bolts can be a big pain. If you have the option, air impact tools can often help break free rusty fasteners more successfully than the steady force from hand tools. The pros often resort to using extreme heat from an acetylene torch. They heat up the nut until it is cherry red and then it might come off with a hefty air impact gun. If you're a regular DIY guy like me, you don't have the equipment for that option. I'd try and tackle it in this order of progression. First start by trying to loosen the nut with a breaker bar being careful not to round off the nut. Failing that, I would soak it in PB Blaster overnight and try the breaker bar again the next day. If still no success, you may just have to cut off the nut with a grinder or cut off wheel. If you've resorted to vice grips and have already torn up the nut, this is probably your only remaining option. Then you'll have to extract and replace the remainder of the stud from the exhaust manifold before reassembly. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
worsethanchiggers I have repeatedly soaked the nuts in pb blaster and tried the breaker bar and vice grips as a final resort... i think I will have to cut them off and go from there.
This is probably to late but I have used a nut splitting tool on rusted / stuck nuts on an exhaust with some success.
Thanks! I'll certainly remember that suggestion for future reference.
I cant seem to break the camshaft sprocket bolts loose. Been spraying PB blaster for several days now. Tried heating up bolts. Using cheater bar. Any Suggestions?
You mentioned a cheater bar. Is that a pipe on the handle of a ratchet or a true breaker bar? Also, are you using some type of pulley holder tool on the cam gear? Either way, sounds like you need more leverage or more power. Try using a long pipe on the end of each to give yourself more mechanical advantage. Or, you might resort to using a powerful impact gun.
worsethanchiggers Thanks for the reply. I’m using a homemade pulley holder(8 foot long 2x4 with two heavy duty bolts and a hole in between to fit the socket). I’m not having any issues keeping the pulley stationary. I am using a regular ratchet wrench with a 17mm deep impact socket with a 5 foot pipe on the end. I think i might have broken the ratchet this morning. Also i have just been heating the bolts with a cheap propane torch and never got the bolts red hot. Tried my Dewalt impact drill with no success. Reading your suggestions I’m thinking getting a true breaker bar or maybe some higher temp heat on the bolt? I really don’t want to even consider the option but can those bolts be drilled out?
A true breaker bar might be your best bet, even if you end up using a cheater pipe on the end of that. A ratchet just isn't designed to take that much torque. Don't ask me how I know. :) Whatever you do, you'll get better results by using something with less flex like thick wall plumbing pipe on the breaker bar. Maybe your 2x4 needs to be made out of steel. :) When doing the timing belt on our Honda Odyssey, I couldn't get the crankshaft pulley bolt out. So, I used a jackstand to support a long extension and my breaker bar with an 8 foot pipe on the end. The thing flexed a lot but finally broke loose with lots of excitement. I didn't enjoy that experience very much. Regarding the use of heat... I don't have personal experience with this but my understanding is that you really won't get any benefit by using a typical propane torch. You really need oxy acetylene to get parts cherry red hot. Even so, you want to heat the part that you want to get bigger like an exhaust pipe nut. Heating the bolt may have the opposite effect. Doing so on a camshaft would make me VERY nervous. You'd certainly cook any nearby seals or gaskets and may even warp something.I wouldn't consider trying to drill them. They're hardened steel and if the threads are locked, you'll never get them out by drilling. You'd end up having to buy new camshafts. Keep trying with more leverage on a breaker bar and a rigid holding device. Otherwise consider investing in a big 1/2" air impact with lots of brute and a big compressor. Good luck!
worsethanchiggers Well i went and got a nice long breaker bar and the bolts broke loose quite easily. Thanks for the tips. These videos are a gold mine for me and I don’t think i would even be attempting this job unless i had found these resources. I really appreciate the hard work you did putting all these videos together. Thanks again
Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate it. I hope the rest of your project goes smoothly. Let me know if I can help further.
Chiggers, so you don’t have to remove fuse to relieve pressure on fuel sensor
Hi Char. I'm not sure if I understand that being a question or concern. But as you can see, the battery was removed and there was no power to the system whatsoever. And any residual fuel pressure in the lines would have bled down long before I opened it up.
Looks like it will be easier to just take out the engine
Great video. You need to stop man. Videos like this are eliminating the backyard mechanic. Before you know it everyone will think they can be a certified mechanic. It's not profitable to become a mechanic anymore because of RUclips.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.