Cylinder Head & Gasket DIY Procedure - Toyota 5VZ-FE - Part 5
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- Опубликовано: 16 мар 2015
- This 6 part series walks through the very detailed procedure for diagnosing and replacing a cracked cylinder head and head gasket on a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with the 3.4 liter 5VZ-FE V6 engine.
This engine was widely used by Toyota from the mid 1990's through 2004 in the Tacoma, Tundra, T-100, 4Runner, and Land Cruiser. Therefore, this repair procedure should be common to all of those vehicles with the same engine.
Due to the detail presented in this video series, it is also a good reference for doing other repairs such as changing the antifreeze/coolant, timing belt, valve cover gaskets, camshafts, alternator, spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil packs, vacuum hoses, exhaust manifolds, belts, hoses, cooling fan, and various intake gaskets.
Part 1 - Diagnosis & Initial Disassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 2 - Intermediate Disassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 3 - Final Disassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 4 - Cylinder Head Removal, Inspection, & Replacement
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 5 - Initial Reassembly
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Part 6 - Final Reassembly & Wrap-up
• Cylinder Head & Gasket...
Here is the tool review for the OTC Universal Pulley Holder that was used in this video series to tighten the camshaft pulley bolts and to install the service bolt in the exhaust camshafts.
• OTC Universal Pulley H...
Here is the my total cost breakdown...
Parts:
$325.00 rebuilt cylinder head (www.ebay.com/str/headsonly)
$138.00 gasket set
$25.00 cylinder head bolts
$23.00 valve shims
$10.00 fuel injector electrical connector
$16.00 antifreeze
$537.00 Parts Total
Tools:
$54.00 OTC universal pulley holder
$80.00 factory service manual
$7.00 oil can
$7.00 blow gun nozzle
$20.00 torque angle gauge (skip this and just make a mark on the bolt heads with a silver Sharpie)
$76.00 machinist's steel straight edge
$34.00 valve adjusting tool
$278.00 Tools Total
$815.00 Grand Total
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With the right tools and some patience, it really is not a very difficult job. 
Хобби
Just tackled this job a few months ago. I COULD NOT have finished it properly without your help in these videos. Thank you so much. I have put about 14,000 miles on the the 4runner with absolutely no issues. You helped me bring this truck back to life.
Thanks for sharing your success story and for your kind words. I really appreciate it.
Great 6 part series and thank you. I can't imagine how hard it is to film and do the job at the same time. I cursed so many times during this whole entire job, it was not easy. I spent a lot of time cleaning everything also. Plus I pressure washed by entire engine bay area and under carriage before starting the job so it was mostly clean.
Just got done replacing both of my rebuilt heads( Headsonly in Texas, excellent work, make sure you clean it thoroughly with carb spray, I found bits of metal flakes from head machining on mine) they shimmed all the hydraulic lifters correctly too, and did a complete timing belt job along with a new radiator and hoses.
The hardest part was figuring the best way to install the exhaust headers first onto the heads and then bolting the heads on the block . I highly recommend getting the exhaust manifold on first , don't tighten the exhaust bolts just yet and then mounting the connecting back manifold onto it. Once you have everything on, then tighten all nuts and bolts. Disconnect the 2 bolts from down pipe where it meets the catalytic converter( replace the gasket, O shaped crushed donut type gasket). Move the entire rear exhaust back from it's rubber mounts, This will give you wiggle room for the back manifold.
Regarding the timing belt install, I found that installing the tensioner bearing on last after you have the timing belt all lined up with both cams and crank pulley gear made it much easier way to install the belt. Then install the hydraulic tensioner last.
Fantastic series. The instructions were clear, the angles were good, the editing was wonderful and the thoroughness was incredible. I now feel confident in working on my pickup. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this so well. One of the best I've ever seen with this amount of detail. Thank you again.
THANK YOU I LOVE YOU MAN. YOU ARE GODS GIFT. I’ve been following this series for 3 weeks, I’m 17 years old with my first truck, never touched an engine before and I followed your instructions and you taught me so much about engines. After pressure test, BOTH of my heads were cracked and I replaced my heads on my 99 Tacoma. This was such a headache and a learning experience, now I feel like someone can point at a part into a 1st gen Tacoma and I can tell them exactly what it is. Mechanics were trying to charge me 3,800 just for the head gasket and I only spent about 900 for parts, tools, and fluids. Seriously man, taking your time to do this and help people is so great and I can’t thank you enough. My engine runs better than before AND I finally fixed this misfire. You rock man!!!!!!!!
This video series is outstanding! I've been searching RUclips for Toyota cylinder head and valve repair video, and frankly, RUclips doesn't offer many helpful videos in this area. This is by far the most detailed and descriptive video series that I have watched. I will definitely use these methods and tips for fixing my 96 4runner in the future. Thank you, sir!
Thanks, I really appreciate the kind comments. I, too, failed to find good coverage of this subject when my truck first took ill. But, I really enjoyed the learning process as I dove into this project and I wanted to share my experience to help others with similar issues.
Gonna be doing a 1st time tear down on one of these engines for a buddy, so glad I watched this video! Those timing gears would have thrown me for a loop!
just finished my 97 4runner 5VZ-FE. I did both sides and replaced the whole cooling system. Your videos were awesome! The motor purred like a kitten. Thanks for the great videos couldn't have done it without them.
+Sara Ochs That's the result I like to hear!
This was very helpful. You really fill in the extra steps beyond the service manual.
I successfully did my own following this guide, highly recommended and great video!
Thanks so much for this video. Our's HG driver side blew about 3 months ago, but we're doing both sides. It's been a summer project, but we're starting the assembly (including water pump AND timing belt! :) ). Your video has been most helpful so far. Updates to come..
Good luck with yours and do keep us posted. I enjoy hearing about others' experiences and differences that they encounter.
Just did this same project and I couldn't have done it without these videos . It has been my go to for the whole process. Thank you very very much
I really appreciate the kind comments. Congrats on your success. Well deserved.
What a great video! You did a great job working on it and putting the videos together! Thank you. I enjoyed watching them. Lots of respect!
Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate it.
Excellent job sir , very good explained with very good step by step details. .. I own 96 4runner with the same engine 3.4L 5vz fe .
Your video will help me a lot on the future if I come across with the same situation or problem, thanks for sharing your knowledge to us . .. 👌👍
wow this was the best clearest video..it's applicable to process on any engine type to look at manual and process the sequence
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
I'm about 2/3 of the done with both head gasket replacements and head rebuilds on an 01 4Runner. I wouldn't have attempted this job myself without these videos. The money I saved allowed me to buy other needed parts and some very good and useful tools. Thank You!
Thinking of buying a 99 4runner with a blown head gasket for 300. Never done a job like this.
@@kevinmalpica7663: After doing the entire job, which took me two months for various reasons, I found out my lower end was bad so it was all for nothing. I ended up swapping in a long block. This was my first time doing a head gasket two (both of them). I would recommend taking lots of pictures as you tear it apart so you know where everything goes when you put it back together. I would also recommend checking to make sure your rings are okay. Mine overheated badly so it caused more damage than I thought. If it's just a head gasket that went bad slowly; you should be okay.
Thanks for the advice. I work on cars but never did a head gasket on a 4runner is what I meant to say. Hopefully I don't run into that type of problem. I'm going to tear apart the motor and if I see major issues then I'll get a motor
this is the best 5vzfe engine how to's. You were my point of reference during my engine built. I hope that you got something from youtube for doing this amazing video. You are the best my friend.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. Good job tackling that job yourself!
well after working on this thing on and offcause of the holidays and rain, I am finally done, and with a little prayer and making sure I followed the videos......so I have two new heads, new starter, the alternator is only like a few years old......so I turned the key and IT TURNED ON AS SOON AS GAS HIT THE INJECTORS......COULD NOT HAVE DONE IT WITH OUT THESE VIDEOS, BEST ONES ON UTUBE......I CHECKED THEM ALL TRUST ME........THANKS DUDE....TRUCK RUNS LIKE A CHARM.....
Excellent! Another DIY success story on record for the good guys. Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
This series of videos were a life saver & a Godsend. Thankyou so very much Sir….. much luv from here Downunder Australia 👏👏👌👌👍👍🙏🙏
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
i must say my friend you do an awesome job of making this a paint by number for everybody up against this task. Kudos mate.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Excellent, you are probably one of theToyota engineer that built this engine. I have a similar engine which is 04 Tacoma 3.4 and I’ll probably do the same things if it fails.
Thanks for taking the time making this visual bible. I'm well on my way to getting back on the road but having a tough time getting the exhaust back on. The studs aren't supposed to come out like yours did but it made the reinstall much easier. Thinking about backing them out but I'll keep trying as-is until I get too pissed off. If anyone has any tips, lmk
I forgot to to say thank you because of all the crap that’s going on but man I couldn’t have got it done by my self with out your help my truck runs great Thank You!
That's great! Thanks for sharing your success story.
Who the stupid ones who pressed the dislike? Keep up the good work sir. Well done job.
great vids. educational, accurate, useful. much appreciated.
Eu quero entender bem esse ponto do motor de Tacoma 2002
This is a great video ! Thank you very much !
These are such good videos. Thanks, buddy, these are helpful.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Damn I have a nasty mind. Couldn't help but to laugh when you said "gently insert it into the hole down there" lol
Sir, you have acquired a thumbs up! 👍🏼
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Felicitaciones desde Venezuela
sir: you should be a teacher! thanks the video, have a good day,
Can I pull both heads at same time on a 93 V6 3.0 motor by keeping timing cover plate in front on an crossover pipe in back?, An leave cams in heads up disturbed to change head gaskets, ?
Thank you
having done this once if you ever had to do it again would you pull the motor for easier access?
I wouldn't pull the engine unless there was some bottom-end work to be done, too. Though it would make working on the engine itself somewhat easier, seems to be that pulling the motor would be even more unnecessary work overall.
awesome just one thing though why you didn't replace the right side cam oil seal while you were there?
Thanks for the question. I did replace the cam oil seal on the right side but I didn't show any of that work because it was repetitive to what was done on the left. ruclips.net/video/iQ7-wmjo6PE/видео.html
Great Video. One question. May have already been answered but...what brand gasket kit did you use? I am about to overhaul my 1996 land cruiser but I am not sure as to what brand gaskets to use. Should I use genuine Toyota or what. Any input would be much appreciated.
I found it to be a challenging decision with so many choices out there. I ordered a Beck-Arnley kit from RockAuto, though, the packaging came with a different name on the label. You can see the details of all the kit components in part 4 of the video series starting here... ruclips.net/video/nFYEoWTX0YU/видео.html You could use a genuine Toyota gasket and I'm sure you'd be very happy with that choice. However, I understand that the components come separately and the overall cost is considerably more which is why I went with a comprehensive third-party kit. Good luck with your project and let us know how your experience compares. I've really enjoyed everyone's unique input on this subject.
Thanks for you posting this stuff. Are you pleased with the head gasket kit that you purchased? Is the head gasket still doing OK?
I don't have anything to compare it to but, yes, I was quite satisfied with the gasket kit. It is doing just fine and the truck purrs like a kitten with 247,000 miles on it now. I expect that the rust cancer from winter salt treatments will certainly be its end long before the engine gives up. Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Excellent video , I had issues with overheating due to my water pump leaking , I decided to replace it along with timing belt ,thermostat , but when I filled up my radiator antifreeze/ water then started leaking on the passenger’s side back of engine , I checked my oil , I couldn’t find traces of water , could I have blown my head gasket ??.
Possibly. It could be leaking past the head gasket but not into the oil passages. Also check the coolant lines that go through the throttle body.
Wow.. Amazing.. i think i can do this now😂
Best video for me
Nice job.. YOU MAKE IT LOOK EASY... But I would have did an overhaul on the other head as well while you had the engine apart
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. Indeed that might have been a wise decision, especially if you were paying someone for the labor to do that job while they were already way down in there. I decided not to "fix" what wasn't broken and to avoid potentially causing other undesirable problems to the passenger side. I did check and adjust the valve clearances on that side but I had no reason to remove the cylinder head and disturb the head gasket since the leak down test had passed on that side. Afterwards, the truck ran great for a few more years and never burned a drop of oil. Unfortunately, it succumb to the dreaded frame rust cancer and wouldn't pass the state safety inspection. So I had to sell it. I sure do miss my Taco.
Other than that perfect video !!!!!
We have a t100 that won’t start. We changed fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator. It has spark and compression. We even changed the evap purge and vent solenoids ( before it stopped running we had codes p0441 and p0446). We checked all the fuses. The fuel rail has pressure ( pulled the bolt facing the front because we don’t have a service port on the rail, because the vehicle is old -1997). When we crank it, the engine turns over, but the rpm meter does not move. Not sure why it won’t start.
Do u time the passenger side camshafts by the single dot or double dots
As noted in the video, the dots are not timing marks and are not used for timing the camshafts with the crankshaft. They are simply alignment marks for use when installing the cams to ensure that the intake cam is oriented correctly against the exhaust cam. The actual timing marks are different and are located on the timing belt cover backing plate. When installing the cams, align the single dots on the driver's side and align the two dots on the passenger side.
hey!
Did I miss it or you you forgot to replace spark plug hole O-rings?
Please I want to know,how arbracam toyota tacoma 5vz pointer (tail)?
Great videos I wish I had found this when I started the head gasket repair, I'm just about finished now though. I've got one question though and hopefully somebody has an idea.
When attaching the intake chamber stay, (@22:05 on your video) for some reason i cant get the bolt holes to line up. The hole in the lower plenum is is about a quarter inch too high. I've verified that i'm putting it in the right place using the fsm, your video and pictures i took during disassembly. This is driving me nuts, any thoughts?
+Jon Garner Sorry to hear about your setback. It sounds like your lower plenum is not fully seated down on the intake as though something is touching or getting pinched under there. If that is the case, you'll have a MAJOR vacuum leak. I suppose it is also possible that your valve cover is not down all the way and is touching the under side of the lower plenum. Now that you're almost done, you won't like my suggestion but I think you need to do some disassembly down to the point of removing the lower plenum and ensure everything is correct. Better to do it now while you know there is an issue.
That's what I was thinking, I've pulled that plenum off and on a few times so I don't think it's that. The other thing I think it could is the intake manifold isn't seated right, that I haven't checked yet. I hate to take it back apart but you are absolutely right, I've pretty much stopped once I saw that it didn't fit cause I knew something was off. Thanks for the response.
Jon Garner yep, i had same issue, didnt locate it correctly, then i corrected myself......cause was in a hurry,....lol
did you re align your cams on passenger side? great video!
kauboi Sure did. And, I think I can detect smoother operation now with that corrected on both sides.
Thanks for this question! Upon watching the video, I realized someone was in there before me and both holes were not aligned. And I can tell that the back half of both heads were much dirtier than the front half forward of the cam gear split. I would imagine it will run better and stay cleaner. My motor has 315k and ran fine the whole time😅 Thank you for your videos!
a++ tutorial
I’ve been watching this entire series and you did a most excellent job. My only question is did you fail to put in the spark plug gasket keepers?
No. I did those, too. They were part of the gasket kit.
@@WorseThanChiggers i’m watching part six now. Better than Eric O Sir. For someone who said “I never did a head gasket before“ it was done better than an expert. Maybe I’ll go back to where you put the gaskets on the valve covers but I don’t remember seeing you put them in I was curious how you do it.
I assume you're talking about the 3 round spark plug tube gaskets that go into each valve cover. I don't remember why I didn't include that in the video series but I certainly did it. You can see them clearly here ruclips.net/video/iQ7-wmjo6PE/видео.html and that they each have a little metal tab that must first be bent out of the way. You can then drive them out with a hammer and screwdriver. The new ones go in with a very light coating of grease. I drove them in with a very large socket until flush. There are many other videos out there showing that process. Good luck with yours!
how many hours doid it take you also what head gasket kit did you buy
All told, I worked on it for nearly 3 months but I only put in limited time on weekends and was filming the process which greatly extended the project's duration. It was also over the dead of winter and the garage was too cold on many days to spend more than 30 minutes at a time in there. If I was to do it again knowing the process, I could probably do it over 2 or 3 dedicated weekends, excluding time waiting for parts. The gasket kit at the time was the Beck/Arnley brand ordered from RockAuto. Thanks for the questions!
what size are the little torx endings on the exhaust manifold bolts? i cant find a way to get the stud snug before installing tjhe manifold. thanks!
Search for how to use a jam nut. It's two nuts snugged together that can then be used to tighten a stud.
@@WorseThanChiggers thanks! I ended up doing that. Just got the valve covers and exhaust manifolds on yesterday and today I'm going to do the intake stuff. Great videos, I couldn't do it without them!!
Is it necessary to run a tap through the cylinder head bolt holes?
I wouldn't think so unless you have bigger problems with corrosion down in there or, worst yet, stripped threads.
Great! My favorite part was at 16:30.
Dirt rally started afterwards.
I have a question, when you temporarily install the right hand cam pulley and turn it as to align the timing marks, does that mean your two dots on the cam gears are not lined up facing each other as you initially installed them? I’m kind of stuck there, and also thank you for this series on the Tacoma engine! A real web gem!!
Yes, the dots are initial alignment marks to get the cams in and down tight. They are not timing marks.
WorseThanChiggers Thank you very much, Sir. Your videos are truly helpful!
Im about to attempt this job myself and this has been about the best set of videos on this I could find. And very helpful. But am I missing a video between 4 and 5? Cause you went from putting in the cams and taking out the service bolt at the end of the 4th video to putting on the plenum. There was alot of things I would have liked to see in between the two vids. Like putting the intake back on and the manifolds and those bolts that's are a pain to get to . And all the fuel line stuff. Is there another video that you made that is either somewhere else or did u just leave it out? I don't mean to complain, it's just that I would like to see the complete job without steps left out. Cause it would definitely help. But I probably have a good idea why it might have been left out because of all the cussing and throwing fits from the exhaust bolts and things like that. But if that part of this series is on here please let me know.
Thanks for letting me know. Perhaps there's a bad link somewhere to the 5th video? Indeed, the 4th video wraps up after I reinstalled the cams and the 5th video picks right back up with the next steps of the procedure where I reinstall the valve covers, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, fuel rail, etc. Here's a link to the entire playlist. Please let me know if you still can't find the 5th video. ruclips.net/p/PLUdzuNFw-6nlCcguzhKhFyHgQ6PEud5o1
How I can to put the coils please?
what gasket kit did you use?
I believe that it was a Beck-Arnley kit from RockAuto, though, it was labeled with a different name. You can see the details of all the kit components in part 4 of the video series starting here... ruclips.net/video/nFYEoWTX0YU/видео.html
Hey great video, if you have a minute and haven’t already done it, would you mind posting the cost? A detailed list would be nice but I’m interested in the total cost and difference of purchased head as total would be diff if it were just blown gasket. Thanks Brian 96’ 4Runner possible blown gasket
Hi Brian. Here was my total cost breakdown...
Parts:
$325.00 rebuilt cylinder head
$138.00 gasket set
$25.00 cylinder head bolts
$23.00 valve shims
$10.00 fuel injector electrical connector
$16.00 antifreeze
$537.00 Parts Total
Tools:
$54.00 OTC universal pulley holder
$80.00 factory service manual
$7.00 oil can
$7.00 blow gun nozzle
$20.00 torque angle gauge (skip this and just make a mark on the bolt heads with a silver Sharpie)
$76.00 machinist's steel straight edge
$34.00 valve adjusting tool
$278.00 Tools Total
$815.00 Grand Total
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Great, thank you so much!
This may be a stupid question, but why does it matter which teeth the timing belt sit on? I know the cams have to be right for timing, but why do you mark which teeth of the belt are on which teeth of the cam sprockets? Is this just so you get the correct tension again?
It is just a quick starting short cut to help get the cams and crankshaft lined up again and ensure that the timing is right. You certainly don't have to do it that way and you don't even have the option if you are putting on a new belt that doesn't have the marks from the factory. In either case, you still need to confirm everything is lined up properly before pulling the pin on the tensioner.
Ahh I see, Thanks for the reply and also for taking the time to do this video! I may have to replace the valve seals in my DeLorean and I don't want to use the rope trick, I want to do it properly so this video was very helpful in showing me all the parts I've only seen in diagrams.
DeLorean? Nice! Am I right that they have a Volvo engine? Saw one in a Volvo shop years ago. I'm actually a big fan of the rope trick and, coincidentally, I recently replaced the valve seals on my daughters Highlander V6 using that method. I think you really only have two alternatives. One is to use compressed air to pump up the cylinder during the process to keep the valves from falling in. I'm a do-it-yourselfer and I don't have shop air provided by a large commercial compressor with that kind of volume and reserve. Obviously the other is to remove the cylinder head altogether. Whichever way you go, good luck with it and keep that gem on the road!
Yes, they have a Peugeot, Renault, Volvo (PRV) V6, I've been restoring her the past 2 years and have only just got her running again, albeit idling at 2500rpm and lots of blue smoke.
Thanks for the advice around the rope trick, I was just planning on pulling the heads, but perhaps the rope trick is not such a bad idea after all. I'm hoping the smoke will come right after an oil change, fixing the idle and getting the engine up to temp. The engine hasn't run for 10+ years apart from when I got it idling last year but had to fix all the vacuum/exhaust leaks.
hey worsethanchiggers you should stop making these videos, you make everything look so easy that we will all think we are a certified car technician xD(kidding) ...thanks for an amazing DIY video, really like this kind of projects and yours was awesome and very clear
great video on your semi rebuilding 3.4L but I have to say is the spark plug your using is supposed to have the two gap not the one gap. I'm sure you do know that but if not that what our toyota 3.4l should have. why I say it is because I have it spark plug went out on me before and burn out.
You are correct and very observant. The standard spark plug for this engine does have dual ground electrodes. The plugs that I am using are a valid alternative as noted in the factory service manual.
Question for anyone who can answer! I have the 3VZE and need to replace its head gasket, is the engine assembly almost identical to the 5VZE?
I imagine that there would be many similarities and differences. Definitely purchase a genuine Toyota factory service manual on that engine before taking on the project. I always consider that to be my 1st mandatory tool in my toolbox before diving into such a significant repair. Good luck!
WorseThanChiggers thank you for replying.:)
Hey I have a ? I had my truck service on some ticking noise from my lifters I think that's what they're called so I drove the truck for two day an now it's making a noise loud one at that took it in an they said my exhaust gasket is leaking they did a leak down test an that's what they found . Now do you think they might've done something wrong to make my trucks gasket fail ??
I am curious which exhaust gasket you are talking about. There is a metal gasket between the engine block and the exhaust manifold and a round fiber gasket between the exhaust manifold and the pipe leading down and out of the engine bay. I assume that the original problem with the ticking noise was solved by adjusting your values. That repair would have only involved removing the valve covers and should not have disturbed your exhaust gaskets. I don't understand how a leak down test would have found a leaky exhaust gasket. That test is to determine how much your cylinders are leaking and where the leak is (values, rings, a crack, etc). In any event, my guess is that your leaky exhaust gasket is separate and unrelated to the repair of your ticking valve problem.
Well my toyota is a 2000 tundra v8 they removed the timing belt to get to the lifters and removed the cam aswell .
Ah, that's a different engine than mine. Either way, removing the timing belt and cams should not have disturbed the exhaust gaskets.
worsethanchiggers thanks for the fast reply and great work down to the science..
I slipped a couple teeth on the sprockets and had to realign the timing belt install. Anyway now I have too much tension and can't get the passenger sprocket on so easily like you did or I did before. What's gone wrong? Btw thank you for this tutorial. Yota guys and gals we'll be using this for years and year. God bless
Did you already pulled the pin on the tensioner? If so, you'll have to repeat the process of removing the tensioner, compressing it, and reinstalling the pin.
@@WorseThanChiggers i hadnt put the tensioner on. I was in the process of torqueing the passenger sprocket when I slipped, turned the engine, and had to realign cams and crank. When I tried slipping the belt back on, I'm missing some slack I had previously and can't get the passenger sprocket on. I'm thinking I'll have to take the crank pulley off to see what going on.
@@kyleberlin6990 I don't think there would be a reason to take off the crank pulley. I'd just take the belt and passenger side sprocket completely off and start the process again. Set the crank and drivers side sprocket on their timing marks and proceed. You'll get it with some persistence.
@@WorseThanChiggers we did it. Working in day time much easier than working under light. Thanks again for everything
Hey i am doing the same but in my book says that I have to align the two dots. In the passenger side... which is different then the drivers side (left side) because in the left side says to alight the single dote
Antonio Martin Thanks for confirming that. You are absolutely correct and it is very important to understand the difference. I did not show where I corrected the alignment of my cams on the passenger side but in part 3 of this video series during dissasembly and inspection of the valve train, I did try to explain that difference. Good luck with yours!
worsethanchiggers I just want to thank you for making this video series. You're awesome! I'm doing my cylinder heads and I've found that on both cylinder heads the single dot marks are lined up. On the passenger side (where the 2 dot marks should be aligned) its lined up with the single dots. It looks like that side has been running much hotter as the bearings are a golden color where the drivers side is much cleaner looking. I'm thinking someone in the past has dove into this and put it together wrong. Any thoughts on that?
powerstrokethis03 Rest assured,that's what you should be seeing. When cylinder #1 is set to top dead center, not only should the timing marks be in their right places on the crankshaft and camshafts pulleys but the single dots on the camshaft gears should also line up. That's true on both the driver's and passenger's sides. The one thing to note about the dots is, on the passenger side only, you must first rotate the two camshafts 180 degrees until the 2 dots on each gear are lined up before removing those camshafts. That is the position on that side where the camshafts are not compressing the valve springs. On the driver's side, the single dots need to be lined up before removing the camshafts.
Sorry, I don't have the experience to say why you might be seeing the discoloration on that one side. I don't know if that can be considered normal or the the result of something wrong.
worsethanchiggers Thanks for the reply. I've been doing some research and watching your other videos and im sure everything is correct. It just had me stumped for a few hours. Upon install ill line the 2 dots up and rotate ccw and line up the single dot and everything should go fine. I hope. Lol. Keep on fighting the good fight man
powerstrokethis03 Being a non-interference engine, it is comforting to know that if you really mess up the timing or the alignment marks, you're not going to destroy anything. It just won't run. :)
14:04-14:20 couldnt tell if you got the oil dipstick guide all the way back in.
Actually it starts at 13:55-14:20
It did go all the way back in and the rubber grommet seated properly.
I would change the timing belt full kit and definitely those spark plugs are not ment fore that engine it is highly required to install the double grounded electrode spark plug
I'd almost want to spritz the new head with some used oil so everything matches under the hood lol.
I bought all new Toyota exhaust studs and nuts (Part numbers 90116-10150 and 90080-17187, respectively if anyone wants to get them as well.)
Would you recommend connecting the exhaust manifold to the crossover and then installing the studs through the manifold to the head, or would you prefer to pre-install the studs to the head, and slide the manifold over it?
Thanks!
(You should add a paypal link... I'd love to donate enough to buy you a few beers!)
Hmm, very good question and I'm not sure which approach would be better/easier. I might lean toward installing the studs while the head is on the bench. Do whichever is easier for you to get the torque right when installing the studs into the head.
I really appreciate the kind comments. Your success if by far enough reward for me.
Alex Wilson
Yes....?
So much work just for head gasket...
Toyota wants u to put the lower timing cover and balancer before installing belt onto cam gears but i always do that with no covers so i can see everything. Just has always seemed more practical to me.
The timing belt procedure is way too long and over complicated. Just install the lines on the belt to the marks and clip the belt to the cams with clips and then install the center idler. As it tightens it will tension the belt slightly then pull the pin out of the tensioner. Done deal. No knock pin and BS
Those sparkplugs are the wrong one, need double headed tips.
Please I want to know,how arbracam toyota tacoma 5vz pointer (tail)?
I am very sorry. I wish that I could help but I do not understand your question.