I don't want to be "that guy," but I've found it to be worth the time to indicate the face of the the adapter plate. It is almost always spot on, but I've had to occasionally skim cut the face before mounting the chuck. Also, when concentricity needs to be 0 +/- 0.0, I'm a huge fan of cutting soft jaws in the dedicated machine. TMX is great stuff! Even though I've spent my career in precision machining, I really enjoy your channel, Adam. You've been a great source for alternative ways of looking at things and you seem very genuinely passionate about your trade. Carry on!
25 year old me would have scoffed at the Skyhook. 39 year old me (specifically my back) thinks that's a damn good invention, and if I did this for a living I would absolutely pay $1000 for it. Don't get old, y'all.
@@neilpuckett359 I know the feeling. Born in 1956, and I mounted a electric winch above my Bridgeport. Makes it a lot easier when I have to swap the vice and the rotary table. 👍🇺🇸🇦🇺
Adam, I have nothing but MAD respect and admiration for your pursuit of precision and excellence…and a huge salute to your Granddad and Dad for teaching you your craft and meticulous care & maintenance of your tools & equipment! 👍👍👍👍👊👊👊👊👊
Cześć! Nice to see not only something `Made in Poland`, but actually see it making its way to the other side of the planet. And being of apparently decent quality!
You know Adam, anytime I watch you indicating and adjusting a position like this, I always think I''d be happy to accomplish that in about double or triple the time it takes you. Your years of practice make it look easy.
I have been running that same TMX 10" set tru on my Graziano SAG lathe for about 3 years now. It's been absolutely flawless. The first few months give you arm a workout untill you get the scroll broken in. The chucks are tight, which is good, they are high tolerance fit. Can't say enough good things about them
If you don't like watching someone tool-up a new shop, then don't watch. Some of us enjoy this content, I've never seen a six jaw set tru be installed on a cnc with a crane. It's still interesting 👍👌🇦🇺
Adam I really admire your machining, presentation and business skills. But more than that I admire your ability to ignore all the crap people say in the comments. Your channel continues to grow so keep doing what you are doing. Next time you are in KC I’ll buy you a beer.
IMHO the people that attack him have never done anything in their lives that matter. So, why care about their opinions? When someone attacks him, visit their page. Zero videos. Lol. They are mostly just children with no direction. So again... Why care what they say?
Im not a machinist but I really look forward to your videos. I've dropped stuff off at machine shop and let them work their black magic. Thanks for letting me see behind the curtain.
Ive got an assortment of wrist pins that ive gathered up over the years. Everything from a little Briggs mower to a big ol cat or Detroit diesel. They are harder than woodpecker lips and preciion ground to a tolerance of .003 of a gnats eyebrow. You almost cant put a ding in them. Anyway, go to the place where you bought your tractor and ask foior some wrist pins. They usually wont be more than 10 bucks.
Someone a while ago, I can't recall who, did a test to see if using only one pinion to adjust the chuck, the same one, made a difference and yes you need to always use only one pinion and only that same one for consistent repeatability. I know your habit has always been to go around the chuck and tighten all of them but it seems that that's just fine unless you want the best repeatability. Why can't I remember who that was? Oh, I remember why, I'm 82 and can't remember what I had for breakfast let alone who did that experiment some time ago but I do remember the experiment.
All my chucks are Bison (1) and TMX (3). They were the same people for a long time. The TMX support folks are awesome. I love their chucks on my manual lathes and tool room lathe. My cnc's run something totally different with hydraulic drawbar. Way better than the gator chuck I tied.
❤ Nice 6 jaw. Great job setting it up. Looking forward to seeing you making parts in the future episodes. I have to say I do miss the one offs using the manual machines but I understand the business side of this shop. I think you really want to upgrade your shop's abilities to get more jobs in and possibly just wanted to learn about programming CNC. I enjoyed watching the show and keep em coming.
It would be cool to see the runout testing a few different size pins. If you get it dialed in with a 1/2" rod, do you still get zero runout with a 2" rod? That would show how precisely machined the scroll is.
It's a lot of fun to watch people working with high precision tools and parts. I know that unnecessary precision can waste money, but certainly the world of machining is moving toward higher precision in general. I am glad to hear that you are taking classes in CNC technology, including Fusion360. I've never used it, but after years of work in computer graphics, I am certainly familiar with that kind of computer drafting and modeling tool. Once you get good at it, you can use it to draw simple parts too. Then when Bozo makes his inevitable visits, most of Bozo's messes will show up in the initial drawings, where corrections are easier and less expensive. If you ever run out of interesting shops and labs to visit, I suspect that a lot of your viewers would like to see a tour of a metrology lab.
I enjoyed very much watching this! Looking forward to your attempt on CNC-lathing that part. I believe the CAM part in Fusion is what's most challenging to get right. Designing the shape is actually quite easy as long as you do it frequently.
That's a beautiful piece of tooling you've got there. Thanks for the insights! I learned a lot about Fusion watching Lars Christensen's channel, unfortunately he doesn't produce new content anymore.
Linear shafting is a good option for a material that's hard, round, pretty straight and pretty close to on size. It's usually spec'd to .002" per foot straightness and on size from -.0005" to -.001" and not too expensive either. You can turn one into a cylinder square if you're willing to do a bit of work on the ends. Used for a lot of industrial stuff so short lengths can be had pretty cheap for what you get.
Not sure if you’re getting enough boost without the higher boost and RPM to overcome the gyroscope effect of the engine that’s fighting it. After you pour in more RPM and boost so much more air and are burning it more efficiently it makes a difference. Many people have dump videos where the exhaust lifts ceiling panels above it.
❤I love this channel to pieces. I learned most of what I now know from this channel and I feel very bad for not being able to support your efforts man😢. I hope I am not the only one who appreciates this channel
good video. A good option to check centering accuracy is to use a high-speed steel round bit. They come ground with great precision. I hope that with this change the precision of the lathe and therefore of the parts to be manufactured will improve even more. thanks for sharing your knowledge
I believe that the spring tension from the runout guage, pushing on the bar, while repeating, is causing it to chuck, not straight... maybe try repeating, without that runout guage tension on it ?!
@@kindabluejazz The dial indicator is spring loaded and does exert a small force on whatever it touches. Whether it can push the rod around, I don’t know, maybe the rod moved around from gravity because it was fairly long and was deep inside the lathe giving it leverage.
You know when you get a new vise, chuck, fixture, tool mounted in the machine and it's super close to being perfect off the rip... It's gonna be a good one for ya.
If you want repeatability, try soft jaws. I have a drawer full of various sizes and they grip whatever size stock I use, really well and they're accurate. That TMX is really shiny though.
I wish Skyhook would create a hobbyist-series crane. I’d love to have one, but nearly $1k is 30% the cost of my entire lathe! I could maybe splurge one day, but it’s clear their product is not priced for the hobby level machinist.
You could always get a Harbor freight cherry picker for $270 and have something that you can use for more than just on the chance you need to change your lathe chuck.
On the hobbyist side, the skyhook's application seems like a good project. There's got to be a way to build something like that for less than $1k. The thing is definitely catered for professional machinists.
@GenericAnimeBoy A hand crank boat trailer winch welded to a peice of pipe. If you're any good at finding stuff in the garbage (which you have to be if you're a hobbiest lol), I'm sure you could build it for almost no cost. I actually cannot fathem shelling out that kind of coin for such a simple tool.
Find a vintage 1/4 or 1/2 ton differential chain hoist and make your own boom. A differential hoist is light weight and automatically holds its position. Ya not as compact but would get the job done. I buy any I come across. Got them hanging everywhere 😊
Bison/Buck/TMX are all top notch. I have a Buck 6 jaw that's so beautiful the only problem I have with it is bringing it inside and tucking it into bed every night.
.......G'day Adam, most interesting mate. In all my machining at college or work I had never been shown that technique. I did not even know a "six-jaw" existed and I am eighty-one. Thank you. Cheers and kind regards, Malcolm.
Hermoso plato de 6 garras muy bueno se ve amigo abom me encantaría uno para mi torno cuando lo tenga por cierto Dios te bendiga mi amigo te deseo éxitos en todo lo que haces
abom: there is a 0 stamped on the chuck where you should tighten also abom: starts on 0 and tightens on the other 2 aswell.. Like huh..? its a scroll chuck you only need to do 1... i have never and i mean never done all 3 in my life and i never had any problems...
You may not have had any problems but it has to do with backlash. He probably started doing it when he was turning those large shafts and kept the habit. Not a bad habit to have.
@@nickhale117the marked pinion is there because you get the best repeatability when using the same pinion every time. Even an old clapped out chuck repeats well when using one pinion, and then horribly when using any of them
I have a 50yr old Pratt Bernard 3 jaw, damn that thing is a dog if I tighten it on the 0, I was going to replace it but if I tighten all 3 it is really really true and highly repeatable to within 0.001” which would be pretty good for a new 3 jaw! Oh yeah, my lathe was made in 1957 and came from a shipyard jobbing shop where it was thoroughly abused, crashed and the 1/2 nuts broken! I did lots of servicing and adjusting and now I can turn jobs to within a 0.001” well under the tolerance that is really needed! I was a toolmaker for 14 years before being made redundant and I was taught to do all 3 on the rare occasion that we were using a 3 jaw. We mostly used 4 jaw as we did a lot of irregular shapes.
He mentioned when he first got the one at home that he gets better results with he tightens all the screws. He starts at 0 and then tightens the others. It's just when he wants the absolute best behavior. If they didn't want people using the other screws they wouldn't have put them on the chuck.
Adam, I also continue to learn to use Fusion 360. It's on-going, but I do have a 3D printer and need to model and print a couple of molds for two broken cast iron items from my 1957 DoAll bandsaw that I want Clarke Easterly to cast for me.
That chuck is never going to repeat 100% ever. Really the only way to get a better result is to use soft jaws and machine them for your second opp. work. Even then they won’t repeat 100%
Still, it is likely that the test part that he used was slightly out of round, no matter how hard and shiny it was. Adam has a quality reference cylinder that he plans to use to see how well the chuck repeats on that.
@@justinl.3587 why would you even make a post about it? Adam never mentioned 100% repeatability. So, you’ve got to ask yourself- who’s the real Captain obvious in this equation?
Proper chuck for a CNC lathe would be a Kitagawa air operated three jaw with soft jaws machined to fit the parts to be produced. Air operated chuck with a bar feeder allows constant bar stock feed to make parts which is what cnc machines do best.. produce parts fast with no to little operator intervention as the cnc machine runs..
Years ago i came here for great machining the old fashioned way... Something that did not involve software. Sorry Adam i stayed subbed for a long time but now the time has come. Thanks for a the good stuff
Just how much 'software' was used? So much of the discussion on 6 vs 3 jaw applies to both manual and CNC. This also applies to the tooling and fixturing and a bunch of the techniques.
@@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994 The problem is that the stuff i came for is long gone, the big cilinder repair and that kind of special work. Not just showing new stuff and visiting the supporting companies.
@@yoopersen is was ment as feedback, the departure is not the subject. And cnc is great, but the thing that Adam did was practicing the craft of machining. Cnc gets used in every factory. If i wanted to see that i can find plenty of Chinese guys that can program a cnc.
I have a similar crane. Looks identical, except it is orange and it has a plastic handwheel. On mine, the chain keeps breaking. It is hardened and I keep finding cracked links. I really don't feel safe using it... I've ordered 5 feet of #35 chain for it, to replace the entire thing. Hopefully it will be more reliable and confidence inspiring after...
If you are a subscriber you might know that Adam started to live from monetizing content on his chanel - the New Workshop is a part of "youtube kind'a'staff business plan". Dont know like you are, but I'm also trying to watch longer than 6 seconds (for example on advs where there is 15 sec with possibility to skip), because it gives Adam more money - which honestly he deserves for the content!
Don't know if it's just the camera, but when you turn that shaft in the 'V' block you can see the runout in the shaft without even looking at the indicator.
Long time viewer of your channel, Adam and I thank you for the quality content! If I were to start with one machine would you recommend either a desktop mill or a desktop lathe? Thank you!
If you ever want to work in steels get something heavy and rigid, desktop you'll be limited to aluminum and non ferrous, although it's a good way to learn
The six jaw chuck is a great 👍 addition to your shop , but I am curious , i don’t see any surface grinders or any o d grinders in the shop do you have any plans for any grinders ????
Hey, after 7:40 you can see the T nut has material taken out of it on one side. I would've also wanted to see the error being made 😅. Nice videos man! Really love your channel.
Can you dial it in on a second lathe without the adapter chuck, then without taking the rod out put the adaptor chuck on and dial the adaptor chuck in? Would that make it more repeatable or would that be compounding error?
@@jwdickinson643Don’t know who’s “crying” on this video but if you watch previous videos you’ll find that about one third of the comments are complaints about Adams free content not being exactly what they want.
The Skyhook has a design flaw in the arm that the chuck is mounted on does not rotate. This is necessary for hard to turn spindles. I modified my Skyhook so that it now incorporates this feature by replacing the arm with an arm with bearings on each end and a tubular sleeve between the bearings. This allows for the chuck to be rotated very easily into alignment without trying to turn the machine spindle. It has improved the Skyhook 100%.
@@KJ6EAD I used bearings because I had them, but I don’t see why a sleeve would not work just as well if it had limited center shaft contact. If it didn’t you could always modify to some ball bearings or delrin sleeves on each end if you plan for them if necessary. I am able to rotate a 16” 4 jaw with my modification.
@@firesurfer you don’t need a welder. Bolt 2 pieces of 3/4 x 1 1/4 wide flat stock together at a right angle with two bolts (I’d recommend grade 8). The top leg long enough to come approximately to the center of your largest chuck’s length. Drill and tap that at the end for a lifting eyebolt to attach the Skyhook’s or any lifting crane, hook. On the other leg, which is sized to reach the center of your largest chuck plus an inch for clearance of the chuck when revolved, drill and tap for a length of round rod which will hold your sleeve which holds your bearings, or just a plain sleeve (piece of pipe perhaps?). Boom! You have one. It will take longer for the paint to dry than to make.
I don't want to be "that guy," but I've found it to be worth the time to indicate the face of the the adapter plate. It is almost always spot on, but I've had to occasionally skim cut the face before mounting the chuck. Also, when concentricity needs to be 0 +/- 0.0, I'm a huge fan of cutting soft jaws in the dedicated machine. TMX is great stuff!
Even though I've spent my career in precision machining, I really enjoy your channel, Adam. You've been a great source for alternative ways of looking at things and you seem very genuinely passionate about your trade.
Carry on!
25 year old me would have scoffed at the Skyhook. 39 year old me (specifically my back) thinks that's a damn good invention, and if I did this for a living I would absolutely pay $1000 for it.
Don't get old, y'all.
Wait till you get to 68 lol.
@@neilpuckett359 I'm there.
@@neilpuckett359
I know the feeling. Born in 1956, and I mounted a electric winch above my Bridgeport. Makes it a lot easier when I have to swap the vice and the rotary table. 👍🇺🇸🇦🇺
In my Navy days they used to say "If a test isn't making sense, test your test equipment." I has proved itself many, many times.
Another adage I've relied on is, "If you get flawless results, you need to invest in better gauging!"
Adam, I have nothing but MAD respect and admiration for your pursuit of precision and excellence…and a huge salute to your Granddad and Dad for teaching you your craft and meticulous care & maintenance of your tools & equipment! 👍👍👍👍👊👊👊👊👊
You have in my opinion the best equiped tooling and machines and nicest one man shop anywhere you must be very proud! Ray Stormont
Cześć! Nice to see not only something `Made in Poland`, but actually see it making its way to the other side of the planet. And being of apparently decent quality!
You know Adam, anytime I watch you indicating and adjusting a position like this, I always think I''d be happy to accomplish that in about double or triple the time it takes you. Your years of practice make it look easy.
I have been running that same TMX 10" set tru on my Graziano SAG lathe for about 3 years now. It's been absolutely flawless. The first few months give you arm a workout untill you get the scroll broken in. The chucks are tight, which is good, they are high tolerance fit. Can't say enough good things about them
Thought you might put a dial on the adapter plate after you bolted it on the machine and see how it looked.
got to love a new 6 jaw chuck.
Awesome process Adam, thanks for sharing and taking the time to video it for us all!
That sky-hook tool is sweet and looks very functional.
If you don't like watching someone tool-up a new shop, then don't watch. Some of us enjoy this content, I've never seen a six jaw set tru be installed on a cnc with a crane. It's still interesting 👍👌🇦🇺
Adam I really admire your machining, presentation and business skills. But more than that I admire your ability to ignore all the crap people say in the comments. Your channel continues to grow so keep doing what you are doing. Next time you are in KC I’ll buy you a beer.
IMHO the people that attack him have never done anything in their lives that matter. So, why care about their opinions? When someone attacks him, visit their page. Zero videos. Lol. They are mostly just children with no direction. So again... Why care what they say?
@@eriklarson9137Wow, I couldn’t have said it better!
Im not a machinist but I really look forward to your videos. I've dropped stuff off at machine shop and let them work their black magic. Thanks for letting me see behind the curtain.
And he finishes with that great smile .....thanx Abom !
Adam
Now that you've got an extra 3 jaw, you should fabricate a mount for it's use in the tailstock.
Ive got an assortment of wrist pins that ive gathered up over the years. Everything from a little Briggs mower to a big ol cat or Detroit diesel. They are harder than woodpecker lips and preciion ground to a tolerance of .003 of a gnats eyebrow. You almost cant put a ding in them. Anyway, go to the place where you bought your tractor and ask foior some wrist pins. They usually wont be more than 10 bucks.
You would use something with 0.003” runout as a reference?
Exactly what I need after a long day working! an Abom79 video to sooth my nerves :)
Someone a while ago, I can't recall who, did a test to see if using only one pinion to adjust the chuck, the same one, made a difference and yes you need to always use only one pinion and only that same one for consistent repeatability. I know your habit has always been to go around the chuck and tighten all of them but it seems that that's just fine unless you want the best repeatability. Why can't I remember who that was? Oh, I remember why, I'm 82 and can't remember what I had for breakfast let alone who did that experiment some time ago but I do remember the experiment.
Dudley Toolwright did that test and he consistently had better results tightening only one pinion.
I can relate! I can recall every conversation I've ever had, I just can't recall who I had the conversation with.
It gets worse with age, way worse@@kenhawkins1033
Thanks for sharing. Beautiful chuck. Throw that bar in the scrap bin.
All my chucks are Bison (1) and TMX (3). They were the same people for a long time. The TMX support folks are awesome. I love their chucks on my manual lathes and tool room lathe. My cnc's run something totally different with hydraulic drawbar. Way better than the gator chuck I tied.
❤ Nice 6 jaw. Great job setting it up.
Looking forward to seeing you making parts in the future episodes.
I have to say I do miss the one offs using the manual machines but I understand the business side of this shop.
I think you really want to upgrade your shop's abilities to get more jobs in and possibly just wanted to learn about programming CNC.
I enjoyed watching the show and keep em coming.
I don’t see that happening.
It would be cool to see the runout testing a few different size pins. If you get it dialed in with a 1/2" rod, do you still get zero runout with a 2" rod? That would show how precisely machined the scroll is.
Love the Monachr!!!!!!!!!!! stop with cnc Adam, love too see the old shop
It's a lot of fun to watch people working with high precision tools and parts. I know that unnecessary precision can waste money, but certainly the world of machining is moving toward higher precision in general. I am glad to hear that you are taking classes in CNC technology, including Fusion360. I've never used it, but after years of work in computer graphics, I am certainly familiar with that kind of computer drafting and modeling tool. Once you get good at it, you can use it to draw simple parts too. Then when Bozo makes his inevitable visits, most of Bozo's messes will show up in the initial drawings, where corrections are easier and less expensive.
If you ever run out of interesting shops and labs to visit, I suspect that a lot of your viewers would like to see a tour of a metrology lab.
I enjoyed very much watching this! Looking forward to your attempt on CNC-lathing that part. I believe the CAM part in Fusion is what's most challenging to get right. Designing the shape is actually quite easy as long as you do it frequently.
Very nice. I remember when you got the other one. Thanks for sharing 👍
Great detail and inspection work Adam, great to watch, thank you. Nick - from the seat of the industrial revolution!
Cincinnati?
The Black Country, United Kingdom!
@@nickeva3964 You probably already suspect I am from the American Midwest. I must concur with your claim. Consider my hat tipped in your direction!
That's a beautiful piece of tooling you've got there. Thanks for the insights! I learned a lot about Fusion watching Lars Christensen's channel, unfortunately he doesn't produce new content anymore.
greetings from Poland :)
It seems to me that the threads are wearing in as you tighten it. So as far as I can see I keep loosening and tightening it.
I like how Adam holds off on unwrapping his goodies until he brings us with him…almost like Christmas!!!
Great video and great chuck,Adam.Thank you.
Try useing a torque wrench on the chuck wrench. Thay way mabe it will tighten up the same way each time.
almost irrelevant once you start clamping different diameters
Centerless ground is the best round. C&I drills are done that way. I bought precision rod from the same company.
Work smarter not harder thanks for the video Adam well done 👍❤❤it.
Is it opposite as you are adjudting the backplate and not the jaws?
Linear shafting is a good option for a material that's hard, round, pretty straight and pretty close to on size. It's usually spec'd to .002" per foot straightness and on size from -.0005" to -.001" and not too expensive either. You can turn one into a cylinder square if you're willing to do a bit of work on the ends. Used for a lot of industrial stuff so short lengths can be had pretty cheap for what you get.
i look at it as tightening the adjustment screws pulls the chuck. i work off the low and not the highs
I have a 6 jaw Set Tro on my 10' Sheldon. I treat it like my 4 jaw. Zero it out each time I re-chuck
Not sure if you’re getting enough boost without the higher boost and RPM to overcome the gyroscope effect of the engine that’s fighting it. After you pour in more RPM and boost so much more air and are burning it more efficiently it makes a difference. Many people have dump videos where the exhaust lifts ceiling panels above it.
❤I love this channel to pieces. I learned most of what I now know from this channel and I feel very bad for not being able to support your efforts man😢. I hope I am not the only one who appreciates this channel
Pretty sure a good deal of what he has been able to put together is a direct result of this channel. He's ok.
good video. A good option to check centering accuracy is to use a high-speed steel round bit. They come ground with great precision. I hope that with this change the precision of the lathe and therefore of the parts to be manufactured will improve even more. thanks for sharing your knowledge
Damn! Adam gets all the cool stuff!
Thanks for the show Adam 🍻 🇦🇺
Awesome stuff Adam. Thanks for sharing
That is a real chunk of chuck.
Nice Adam 👍🍺🤗
I believe that the spring tension from the runout guage, pushing on the bar, while repeating, is causing it to chuck, not straight... maybe try repeating, without that runout guage tension on it ?!
That piece did jump each time he re-chucked it. That was from the dial gauge pushing it away.
That dial gauge pin moves IN on changes of 1/10000", and you think it has enough back pressure to move a 75lb chuck? LOL
@@kindabluejazz No, not the chuck, the piece of rod in the chuck.
@@AllenCavedo There's no way the dial indicator can 'push' anything away - it measures by absorbing forces, it doesn't exert forces.
@@kindabluejazz The dial indicator is spring loaded and does exert a small force on whatever it touches. Whether it can push the rod around, I don’t know, maybe the rod moved around from gravity because it was fairly long and was deep inside the lathe giving it leverage.
thanks for the education
I also like how he uses “invests” instead of “buy” or “purchase”
Or mostly gets it for free.
You know when you get a new vise, chuck, fixture, tool mounted in the machine and it's super close to being perfect off the rip... It's gonna be a good one for ya.
did you check jaws to be tight.
Yes, a lot of bolts there he assumed were tight
I simply love indicating a part or tool in...and on the first go you think your indicator is broken.
Not being a machinist, I'm a bit surprised that installation does not require the use of a torque wrench on all of the fasteners.
Not necessary. Would be a waste of time and money.
Just my opinion, but maybe a bridge to tie the two T-slots together and the lift attachment biased away from the chuck for better support.
👍👍
If you want repeatability, try soft jaws. I have a drawer full of various sizes and they grip whatever size stock I use, really well and they're accurate. That TMX is really shiny though.
The one thing I'd hoped to see but didn't was that suspect bar trying to roll on the surface plate.
I wish Skyhook would create a hobbyist-series crane. I’d love to have one, but nearly $1k is 30% the cost of my entire lathe! I could maybe splurge one day, but it’s clear their product is not priced for the hobby level machinist.
You could always get a Harbor freight cherry picker for $270 and have something that you can use for more than just on the chance you need to change your lathe chuck.
On the hobbyist side, the skyhook's application seems like a good project. There's got to be a way to build something like that for less than $1k. The thing is definitely catered for professional machinists.
@GenericAnimeBoy A hand crank boat trailer winch welded to a peice of pipe. If you're any good at finding stuff in the garbage (which you have to be if you're a hobbiest lol), I'm sure you could build it for almost no cost.
I actually cannot fathem shelling out that kind of coin for such a simple tool.
Find a vintage 1/4 or 1/2 ton differential chain hoist and make your own boom. A differential hoist is light weight and automatically holds its position. Ya not as compact but would get the job done. I buy any I come across. Got them hanging everywhere 😊
I had no clue it was that much.
I heard that Bison chucks are made in Poland and are high quality tools, how does TMX compare to Bison? Are they the same company??
Bison/Buck/TMX are all top notch. I have a Buck 6 jaw that's so beautiful the only problem I have with it is bringing it inside and tucking it into bed every night.
.......G'day Adam,
most interesting mate. In all my machining at college or work I had never been shown that technique. I did not even know a "six-jaw" existed and I am eighty-one. Thank you.
Cheers and kind regards,
Malcolm.
> probably beyond 'imagination' - seems he's now got a majority of the expensive, precision items to make a tailstock chuck for the shop tool crib.
Hermoso plato de 6 garras muy bueno se ve amigo abom me encantaría uno para mi torno cuando lo tenga por cierto Dios te bendiga mi amigo te deseo éxitos en todo lo que haces
I know you have gauge blocks, do you also have gauge rods, precision ground to known diameters?
@rollinrat4850 Interesting. Thanks for filling me in.
A torque wrench will help with repeatability.
abom: there is a 0 stamped on the chuck where you should tighten
also abom: starts on 0 and tightens on the other 2 aswell..
Like huh..? its a scroll chuck you only need to do 1... i have never and i mean never done all 3 in my life and i never had any problems...
You may not have had any problems but it has to do with backlash. He probably started doing it when he was turning those large shafts and kept the habit. Not a bad habit to have.
@@nickhale117the marked pinion is there because you get the best repeatability when using the same pinion every time. Even an old clapped out chuck repeats well when using one pinion, and then horribly when using any of them
I have a 50yr old Pratt Bernard 3 jaw, damn that thing is a dog if I tighten it on the 0, I was going to replace it but if I tighten all 3 it is really really true and highly repeatable to within 0.001” which would be pretty good for a new 3 jaw! Oh yeah, my lathe was made in 1957 and came from a shipyard jobbing shop where it was thoroughly abused, crashed and the 1/2 nuts broken! I did lots of servicing and adjusting and now I can turn jobs to within a 0.001” well under the tolerance that is really needed!
I was a toolmaker for 14 years before being made redundant and I was taught to do all 3 on the rare occasion that we were using a 3 jaw. We mostly used 4 jaw as we did a lot of irregular shapes.
He mentioned when he first got the one at home that he gets better results with he tightens all the screws. He starts at 0 and then tightens the others. It's just when he wants the absolute best behavior. If they didn't want people using the other screws they wouldn't have put them on the chuck.
What happened to the spring on the chuck key. 😅
Those are for the production environments where you only have boneheads pushing buttons.
Or wise guys who think they’ll never make a mistake..
I love Advertising Tuesday!
Adam, I also continue to learn to use Fusion 360. It's on-going, but I do have a 3D printer and need to model and print a couple of molds for two broken cast iron items from my 1957 DoAll bandsaw that I want Clarke Easterly to cast for me.
Thank you Adam
Crane lift for your chuck.........heck when we were kids we were lifting heavy 12" 4 jaws chucks by our selves!
great work !
That chuck is never going to repeat 100% ever. Really the only way to get a better result is to use soft jaws and machine them for your second opp. work. Even then they won’t repeat 100%
Still, it is likely that the test part that he used was slightly out of round, no matter how hard and shiny it was. Adam has a quality reference cylinder that he plans to use to see how well the chuck repeats on that.
No chuck, in the history of man and machine tools, has repeated 100%.
@@wolffengineering7038 Thank you captain obvious, I already mentioned that.
@@justinl.3587 why would you even make a post about it? Adam never mentioned 100% repeatability. So, you’ve got to ask yourself- who’s the real Captain obvious in this equation?
Proper chuck for a CNC lathe would be a Kitagawa air operated three jaw with soft jaws machined to fit the parts to be produced. Air operated chuck with a bar feeder allows constant bar stock feed to make parts which is what cnc machines do best.. produce parts fast with no to little operator intervention as the cnc machine runs..
Years ago i came here for great machining the old fashioned way... Something that did not involve software. Sorry Adam i stayed subbed for a long time but now the time has come. Thanks for a the good stuff
Just how much 'software' was used? So much of the discussion on 6 vs 3 jaw applies to both manual and CNC. This also applies to the tooling and fixturing and a bunch of the techniques.
This isn’t an airport. No need to announce your departure. Also CNC is better than manual in every single way
@@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994
The problem is that the stuff i came for is long gone, the big cilinder repair and that kind of special work. Not just showing new stuff and visiting the supporting companies.
@@yoopersen is was ment as feedback, the departure is not the subject. And cnc is great, but the thing that Adam did was practicing the craft of machining. Cnc gets used in every factory. If i wanted to see that i can find plenty of Chinese guys that can program a cnc.
@@joranbrouwer2157 so stop watching
I have a similar crane. Looks identical, except it is orange and it has a plastic handwheel. On mine, the chain keeps breaking. It is hardened and I keep finding cracked links. I really don't feel safe using it...
I've ordered 5 feet of #35 chain for it, to replace the entire thing. Hopefully it will be more reliable and confidence inspiring after...
When I saw the title I figured the Precision Mathews was getting a 6 jaw chuck. I think it is ripe for Set True precision.
If you are a subscriber you might know that Adam started to live from monetizing content on his chanel - the New Workshop is a part of "youtube kind'a'staff business plan". Dont know like you are, but I'm also trying to watch longer than 6 seconds (for example on advs where there is 15 sec with possibility to skip), because it gives Adam more money - which honestly he deserves for the content!
Really? I have no idea how anyone can machine on a cnc without soft jaws, and this is going to make that a nightmare. Straight out of the 1950s.
Don't know if it's just the camera, but when you turn that shaft in the 'V' block you can see the runout in the shaft without even looking at the indicator.
It’s the camera
Long time viewer of your channel, Adam and I thank you for the quality content! If I were to start with one machine would you recommend either a desktop mill or a desktop lathe? Thank you!
Get the lathe, make the mill.
If you ever want to work in steels get something heavy and rigid, desktop you'll be limited to aluminum and non ferrous, although it's a good way to learn
Most excellent.
I'm sold on the TMX chuck and getting me one of them.
The six jaw chuck is a great 👍 addition to your shop , but I am curious , i don’t see any surface grinders or any o d grinders in the shop do you have any plans for any grinders ????
Nice job like always Adam always enjoy the time my friend!!!!
Ps the black hardware came from were?
How can I contact you Adam?
Tel# doesn't work?
Nice
nice chuck adem. looks ferry strong a 6 jaw.
so now meake chips !
Hey, after 7:40 you can see the T nut has material taken out of it on one side. I would've also wanted to see the error being made 😅.
Nice videos man! Really love your channel.
Good video 👍
It looked to me as though the mounted chuck was out of static balance in a couple of the still shots?
Great looking gear though 👍
Robert
Can you dial it in on a second lathe without the adapter chuck, then without taking the rod out put the adaptor chuck on and dial the adaptor chuck in? Would that make it more repeatable or would that be compounding error?
He needs to remove the chuck to get the adapter plate off, you'd have to readjust it afterwards anyway, so no.
Nice CNC mill, I hope he crushed the threads on the tee nut.
Great video and if something not right fix it and you found the problem was the test shaft not the tool
If you must cry, please use a tissue and not the RUclips comments section. Thank You.
No kidding I thought grown adults watched this but apparently I was wrong you took the words out of my mouth/comment
Well said
I musta come late to the comment party…who tf is crying and what are they crying about?
@@jwdickinson643Don’t know who’s “crying” on this video but if you watch previous videos you’ll find that about one third of the comments are complaints about Adams free content not being exactly what they want.
😂
I didn't think the spring on the chuck key would last very long. 😀
Nether did I Lol
One day I will own a quality new chuck lol mortgage first lol
Good job. Thank you 😊
tough getting right
Practice makes perfect.. I love it.. never did have a chance to change or take out a check on the cnc. Remember, there are people like me out there..
So what should he... do... different...
@eriklarson9137 nothing just keeps going long or short. Don't skip a beat.
The Skyhook has a design flaw in the arm that the chuck is mounted on does not rotate. This is necessary for hard to turn spindles. I modified my Skyhook so that it now incorporates this feature by replacing the arm with an arm with bearings on each end and a tubular sleeve between the bearings. This allows for the chuck to be rotated very easily into alignment without trying to turn the machine spindle. It has improved the Skyhook 100%.
Do you really need/want the free movement of bearings or would a friction sleeve work?
@@KJ6EAD I used bearings because I had them, but I don’t see why a sleeve would not work just as well if it had limited center shaft contact. If it didn’t you could always modify to some ball bearings or delrin sleeves on each end if you plan for them if necessary. I am able to rotate a 16” 4 jaw with my modification.
Not having a feature is not a 'flaw'. A flaw is when it doesn't work properly as advertised and designed.
Seems like a nice idea. Now if I only had a welder...and knew how to weld.
@@firesurfer you don’t need a welder. Bolt 2 pieces of 3/4 x 1 1/4 wide flat stock together at a right angle with two bolts (I’d recommend grade 8). The top leg long enough to come approximately to the center of your largest chuck’s length. Drill and tap that at the end for a lifting eyebolt to attach the Skyhook’s or any lifting crane, hook. On the other leg, which is sized to reach the center of your largest chuck plus an inch for clearance of the chuck when revolved, drill and tap for a length of round rod which will hold your sleeve which holds your bearings, or just a plain sleeve (piece of pipe perhaps?). Boom! You have one. It will take longer for the paint to dry than to make.
15:01 Using guide studs would make lining it up easier.
yeah, it looked really hard without studs didn't it?
Good video