For the most part, one commenter puts an input on, say 5% of the whole, the other 95% they do not opine on. Another commenter has an input on something completely different, but often times, just another 5%; or maybe disagrees or reinforces on the same 5% at issue. It is those readers of all the comments who might then deem themselves to know it all, as all the viewpoints have been heard.
Jason at FIREBALL is an absolute ledgend. He got you a "for sale" Taiwanese vise and set you up with a build series on the USA made castings. And supplied drawings so you can complete the first 100% USA made Abom79/Fireball vice. Well done Adam and Jason. Its great to watch. All the set-ups are amazing, we've all learnt a lot.👍👌🇦🇺(I'm also an Adam from '79)
Watching this on a rainy Monday afternoon makes everything better. Thanks for all of the tips and suggestions you make. Knowing when there is no room for compromise and when good enough will do is the sign of a true craftsman. Thanks for another excellent video.
Good move checking the concentricity relative to the dovetail. If that area is off by too much when one loosens the clamps to rotate the vise it will bind in some spots. If the bolt holes were in a centered square pattern rather than rectangular you could have bolted it directly to the chuck or a faceplate. I totally agree with you about using dial indicators on castings. My favorite is the Starrett No 196 'back plunger' indicator. It is simple, easy to read and rugged. I keep the big mushroom head contact point on it most of the time so it can skip over the rough stuff. As always... excellent attention to detail.
I know you enjoy the CNC machine along with all the learning it takes. But it sure is fun to watch you return to the old/manual skills... Good video Thanks
Adam, I can't believe that you used the die grinder without covering the ways. Personally I would have used a tool bit, much cleaner, then cleaned up with some 200 grit every cloth. But to each his own.
I thought I remembered there being a faceplate that came with the Pacemaker lathe. I'd have thought this would be a perfect job for a faceplate. Maybe my memory is wrong, though. In any case, Nice work! --Edit to add: Really great point about using non-precision methods for indicating rounds. "Rubs here, doesn't rub there" absolutely works just fine for rough work like castings. Suit the methods to the work.
A quick way to get it close, before going to the Dial Indicator, is to pin it to the chuck face with a tailstock centre, then bring the jaws in, to just barely touch the sides of the workpiece.
I think using the lathe is easier and will produce a better finish that is flat, compared to using a mill. Using a mill will not be as flat it will leave step over edges. And the center bore even if done on the CNC Mill will take longer to set up and program. For those who commented that they would use a mill think about it.
Hey Adam. I like the look of the Starrett micrometre . Nice to see something a bit different from the standard grey. If you have a set of them, can you maybe show them off on a tool Tuesday for us. Excellent worky man.
When Adam mentioned using the indicator tips on cast and people talking about wearing out the tips, I always thought those indicator tips (at least the good ones) were hardened. That would make them harder than most normal cast iron parts. That means the tip won’t wear, the cast part will instead. Also, it’s not a high speed or long term operation, so the possibility of detrimental wear should be low to non-existent. I’m not a machinist, but I do understand how stuff works.
I enjoyed the alternative centering method with the pointer and height gauge 141/2 minute in. Some nice work Adam. I prefer the manual machining to the CNC stuff.
I realize it's probably already done, but it occurred to me that maybe you could attach the base to a faceplate when you turn it over and use the vise's own lock down bolts/nuts in the dovetail channel to hold it tight against the plate surface?
I watch a bit of Pakistani machining. Almost always they just use a piece of wire to indicate with. They are Abom fast and pretty accurate too. It's great to have all the modern gear, but it's amazing what can be done with basic stuff and experience!
Blondihacks just did something similar, although she flattened the base surface first to create a primary datum. I would have done the same on this swivel base so it sits flat against the lathe chuck face for the next ops.
It's a well known fact that cars go faster when you put stripes on them, and these American-made tools work a lot better if they have patriottic markings.
@@grntitan1 He may not be a machinist, but that was also my first thought too.. These ops could've been done just as easily on the mill with a large-diameter fly-cutter too, if he wanted to be even quicker about it. Adam seems adverse to fly-cutters though, preferring face-mills for pretty much every situation I've ever seen him post.
@@mashrien And then how to do the bore? Installing and setting up a boring head would be 10x the amount of extra work, and requiring reaching out over the cabinet and killing his back to do his indicating. CNC is better for making something from a billet where 100% of the dimensions are defined by the print and offset from an absolute reference.
Could it be done on a mill? Yes. But indicating it in would be much more difficult and the lathe I think is the better option if you have the capacity for a part this size.
I'm interested in why you chose to do that on the lathe rather than the mill. Using the surface indicator took me back many years. In the UK we called the "scratch gauges" for obvious reasons.
Any way we could get a copy of your lathe chart? I’d appreciate a Tool Tuesday where you review your favorite charts, cheat sheets, etc. I certainly enjoy your channel. Thanks!!
As Ron Pratt from Midwest Trucking (truck repair, towing n RUclipsr says there are many ways to get to 10 (multiple ways to accomplish your task) Adam showed you 2, and told you of a third. How you choose to get to 10 is up to you. As you saw, though, aligning that center hole didn't help him as he wanted to measure off of the dove tail, and that was not concentric with the center hole. Now it is, though. That's the trouble with cast parts. You get shrinkage and warping even when treated 110% correct.
The issue is holes in castings are generally made with cores rather than being part of the mold. Picking which surface to make your reference on raw castings is a bit of a crapshoot but using a larger diameter one off the mold like he did is way more sensible.
An important, dare I say, a critical aspect that you are overlooking, is dialing in the bottom of the dovetail. I think you lucked out and it seems it was pretty parallel with the base. But, it could have been fairly out of wack. What this would affect is that the swivel can bind up when rotating. It forces you to open up the clamp screw more than necessary. I've had a cheap chines vise do this. Working with and unwieldy peice trying to line something up only to have to let go of everything because the swivel locked up. The dovetail nut has to follow those angles and if it's cut out of parrallel it won't work smooth.
Awesome setup work. What I noticed is that the outer ring is running out quite a bit, will that be an issue? Indicating on those dovetail surfaces is a little tricky, I bet if you angle the whole piece slightly in the chuck you can get both the inside and outside dovetail surfaces to run mostly true, it's just a question if that effort is wotrth it. I propably wouldn't be able to stop myself trying to machine the dovetail faces so the vise will be a treat to work with when it's finished.
I like that idea. Curtis (or Kurtis) at Cutting Edge Engineering runs big lathes on most of his jobs. He did a whole video on doing exactly that on a new chuck. Found it: How to DRILL & TAP Hard Jaws | Big Lathe Chuck.
For calculating the RPM to use, I'd think you'd want to start at the high end of the recommended range. If you're using your max diameter for the calculation, and you choose the minimum SFM, then as you move into the center, you're just going to drop below the min, no?
Maybe maybe not. On carbide one can certainly go faster than on HSS. But going too fast may trash a new and very expensive cutter especially on a rough casting. As it turned out, going for the low end of the speed, he got excellent results at both diameters with very little risk. He could have shifted to 279 (or even higher) and it would be within range for both the max and min diamters of the cut. I don't know what gear he was in that was noisy. Nothing wrong with playing it safe. On your own lathe with your own tooling you can, of course, make your own decisions.
Great project Adam, the vise parts are looking good. Q. Maybe I missed it but if not, why did you not face off the bore before boring to size? Thanks for sharing.
Could you center the plate more easily using the tail stock to press it into the chuck? I'm sure I've seen conical attachments for the tail stock which would center the work piece when gently seated in the hole for the swivel bolt. I know enough to know I don't know enough, so my questions are from curiosity and not criticism.
Hi Adam, you must be one of the best machinist on RUclips. I love your video's. Lately I found myself that I skip a lot of video going to actual machining. In this specific video it took 14 minutes to setup / explain the high's and low's (which I already saw in 100 of your video's). Honestly I think you can show much more machining with quick reference to what you're doing. Still watching them but skip a lot. I can promise you that you will get much more views. Although this my honest opinion, I still enjoy the video's.
C'mon - you have spent the last few years buying machinery and you don't have anything with enough swing 😮😂😂 And, the only reason I'm still subscribed is that I'm praying that you will do something that I can learn from
Easier... maybe, until you got the center hole. I'm not sure I noticed any excess effort required to do it this way; it seemed pretty straightforward to me. Quicker? Maybe, maybe not. More accurate? I doubt it. Accurate enough, yes, probably. But machining a nice rotating surface on a nice rotating machine, that just makes sense. The mill is goin to leave all those wacky milling marks all pointing the wrong directions. The potential for minor tramming issues to influence the result. The fact that his mill frankly just isn't as beefy as that lathe. That we would have to abandon single-point turning. It just doesn't seem right.
He needs to face off the entire bottom surface. I thought he was going to run it across the old shaper at the home shop. Looks like he maybe trying to setup for a production run though (special fixtures, tooling, measuring).
@@ke5wl804 Just use the clamp wedges and some bolts through the faceplate! With the upper surface already cleaned in the first operation, this gives a perfect register.
Would have been the perfect part for the cnc mill. A SIMPLE operation 1 g02/g03 with a i/k offset and done lol (ofc some g00 to move where you want it but that's obvious)
Not everything has to be CNC. Some people actually enjoy using Manual Machines and learning an actual trade not computer programming. He is in no rush to complete this vise. It is a hobby project.
@@caploader111 i was just giving an example, for training purposes ofc he can use G03. There is definitely a pocket cycle premade in the machine itself to begin with, he could even use that if he wanted to.
@@demonknight7965 I enjoy manual machining as much as anybody else, trust me at work i try to avoid using CNC when possible and still i would have done this on the cnc any day. just because of all the indicating.. Clamp it down 3d probe it, simple program, done.
@@FireGodSpeed There's something great about seeing the Pacemaker doing it's job, rather like an old V8 engine that is slower and less refined than the electric motor but speaks a language of emotion and heritage that the electric motor finds pointless and unnecessary. It's a tough trade off for sure but the knowledge seems important to me. 3D probing and axis correction; truly amazing what can be done. Even the vice Adam is working on might be somewhat old-school these days.
The Pakistani manufacturing RUclipss the machinist use a simple piece of wire to indicate, given how worn the lathes they use are this is plenty good enough.
I don’t think they ever clean or,lubricate those machines either. I guess there is no point,since the dust from the dirt floor would🎉mix with the oil and,make a abrasive paste.
@@jamesdavis8021They do what they need to get the job done as quickly as possible, and still meet the customer specs. They can't afford OCD machinists - that's how they make their stuff 1/10th the cost of USA made.
Mmmm.... dunno. Maybe it locks better without being so smooth? Unnecessary complexity? I'm guessing a full-time vise-making company would probably skip it, too. Just guessing! You gotta know when good enough is good enough. For that smooth rotation, though... it's nice. :-)
My contractor will be here tomorrow to start the dirt work ready for concrete, soon I’ll have a shop and ready for a vice.
"People are here to learn"
except for the ones that are here to show everyone that they know it all. There is no middle ground! 😆
For the most part, one commenter puts an input on, say 5% of the whole, the other 95% they do not opine on. Another commenter has an input on something completely different, but often times, just another 5%; or maybe disagrees or reinforces on the same 5% at issue. It is those readers of all the comments who might then deem themselves to know it all, as all the viewpoints have been heard.
Jason at FIREBALL is an absolute ledgend. He got you a "for sale" Taiwanese vise and set you up with a build series on the USA made castings. And supplied drawings so you can complete the first 100% USA made Abom79/Fireball vice. Well done Adam and Jason. Its great to watch. All the set-ups are amazing, we've all learnt a lot.👍👌🇦🇺(I'm also an Adam from '79)
Your Grandfather and dad would be proud of the things your doing. Be safe
Well said bro
Watching this on a rainy Monday afternoon makes everything better. Thanks for all of the tips and suggestions you make. Knowing when there is no room for compromise and when good enough will do is the sign of a true craftsman. Thanks for another excellent video.
I'm not a machinist. Watching up close to the operation is one of my favorite pastimes. The filming is superb. Thanks!
Adam is a decent, intelligent, and skilled man.
Good move checking the concentricity relative to the dovetail. If that area is off by too much when one loosens the clamps to rotate the vise it will bind in some spots.
If the bolt holes were in a centered square pattern rather than rectangular you could have bolted it directly to the chuck or a faceplate.
I totally agree with you about using dial indicators on castings. My favorite is the Starrett No 196 'back plunger' indicator. It is simple, easy to read and rugged. I keep the big mushroom head contact point on it most of the time so it can skip over the rough stuff.
As always... excellent attention to detail.
The exact thing I like to see after a super massive long day at work, an Abom79 video!
His videos are so relaxing for some reason!
I'm going back to watch rotary table build for the 6 time ,Abom79 the man .... thanks for making a boring day in to a well made movie !!
I know you enjoy the CNC machine along with all the learning it takes.
But it sure is fun to watch you return to the old/manual skills...
Good video Thanks
Hi I'm from Poland. 👍
Adam, I can't believe that you used the die grinder without covering the ways.
Personally I would have used a tool bit, much cleaner, then cleaned up with some 200 grit every cloth. But to each his own.
Those are some good looking castings.
Absolutely love the American Pacemaker in action. Thank you.
I thought I remembered there being a faceplate that came with the Pacemaker lathe. I'd have thought this would be a perfect job for a faceplate. Maybe my memory is wrong, though. In any case, Nice work! --Edit to add: Really great point about using non-precision methods for indicating rounds. "Rubs here, doesn't rub there" absolutely works just fine for rough work like castings. Suit the methods to the work.
12:15 - the mark of a master machinist is knowing the difference between “or so” and “on the nuts”… and knowing when either one matters most! 😅
A quick way to get it close, before going to the Dial Indicator, is to pin it to the chuck face with a tailstock centre, then bring the jaws in, to just barely touch the sides of the workpiece.
I think using the lathe is easier and will produce a better finish that is flat, compared to using a mill. Using a mill will not be as flat it will leave step over edges. And the center bore even if done on the CNC Mill will take longer to set up and program. For those who commented that they would use a mill think about it.
The spin at 7:20 made me swear out loud. That was pure beauty
Hey Adam. I like the look of the Starrett micrometre . Nice to see something a bit different from the standard grey. If you have a set of them, can you maybe show them off on a tool Tuesday for us. Excellent worky man.
An other great video.Thank you Adam for all your hard work.
Now I know I'm lazy. I bring the tailstock center into the hole, hold it up against the chuck, then bring all four jaws into it.
Okay, I just typed this out as a question a moment ago. I was thinking the same thing.
When Adam mentioned using the indicator tips on cast and people talking about wearing out the tips, I always thought those indicator tips (at least the good ones) were hardened. That would make them harder than most normal cast iron parts. That means the tip won’t wear, the cast part will instead. Also, it’s not a high speed or long term operation, so the possibility of detrimental wear should be low to non-existent. I’m not a machinist, but I do understand how stuff works.
Thanks for the discussion of indicating castings!
Every time Adam breaks out the American mic I want it more lol
Since there is a cavity in the bottom for the bolt just bolt the lathe machined surface to the knee mill and run a shell mill across it.
Avon’s vice is vises. I noticed it years ago, Adam has a vise addiction.
I like your music. I like your shop too. I also like how your thought process works. This channel is really fun, relaxing, and educational for me.
I enjoyed the alternative centering method with the pointer and height gauge 141/2 minute in. Some nice work Adam. I prefer the manual machining to the CNC stuff.
I realize it's probably already done, but it occurred to me that maybe you could attach the base to a faceplate when you turn it over and use the vise's own lock down bolts/nuts in the dovetail channel to hold it tight against the plate surface?
What a wonderful play ground you have! Congrats from Lancaster PA.
Time to load one in the Luggage and take it down-under to CEE @CuttingEdgeEngineering
Love that Sterritt maze you’re there with the American eagle stuff on it that is so cool
I go with what ever you say, you know more about this work then me. Nice job.
Good vídeo. Centering the base was perfect with only eyes
I’m definitely here to learn.
I watch a bit of Pakistani machining. Almost always they just use a piece of wire to indicate with. They are Abom fast and pretty accurate too. It's great to have all the modern gear, but it's amazing what can be done with basic stuff and experience!
He said there are multiple ways to to it. Like his dad used to use a tool bit.
Good to see at least one American made machine tool, being used on this American made vise.
Blondihacks just did something similar, although she flattened the base surface first to create
a primary datum. I would have done the same on this swivel base so it sits flat against the
lathe chuck face for the next ops.
That's a fancy looking Micrometer, with the Stars and Stripes on it. 🙂
It's a well known fact that cars go faster when you put stripes on them, and these American-made tools work a lot better if they have patriottic markings.
I’m not a machinist, but it makes sense to do this on a mill, or even the shaper.
You are right, you are not a machinist.
@@grntitan1 He may not be a machinist, but that was also my first thought too.. These ops could've been done just as easily on the mill with a large-diameter fly-cutter too, if he wanted to be even quicker about it. Adam seems adverse to fly-cutters though, preferring face-mills for pretty much every situation I've ever seen him post.
@@mashrien And then how to do the bore? Installing and setting up a boring head would be 10x the amount of extra work, and requiring reaching out over the cabinet and killing his back to do his indicating. CNC is better for making something from a billet where 100% of the dimensions are defined by the print and offset from an absolute reference.
Could it be done on a mill? Yes. But indicating it in would be much more difficult and the lathe I think is the better option if you have the capacity for a part this size.
Yeah a shaper would be way faster and center bore would come out really square. Hehe
Very nice work Adam. Very good. I like.
15:23 this centering technique reminds me of truing a bicycle wheel!
Same. Tried and true technique. (pun intended)
@dave.of.the.forrest Don't you mean tired and true? 😂
It really isnt too different. Some wheel builders will go so far as to use dial indicators but I never felt the need to do that for myself.
Suggestion: grab some unistrut and mount it to the T slots. You can get some 1/2" cone nuts andd make up a quick and dirty fixture
I'm interested in why you chose to do that on the lathe rather than the mill. Using the surface indicator took me back many years. In the UK we called the "scratch gauges" for obvious reasons.
Any way we could get a copy of your lathe chart?
I’d appreciate a Tool Tuesday where you review your favorite charts, cheat sheets, etc.
I certainly enjoy your channel. Thanks!!
20:50 why is the sound so satisfying
I think I would have just put a live center in the tailstock and just centered it up with that and the center whole of the base.
As Ron Pratt from Midwest Trucking (truck repair, towing n RUclipsr says there are many ways to get to 10 (multiple ways to accomplish your task) Adam showed you 2, and told you of a third. How you choose to get to 10 is up to you. As you saw, though, aligning that center hole didn't help him as he wanted to measure off of the dove tail, and that was not concentric with the center hole. Now it is, though. That's the trouble with cast parts. You get shrinkage and warping even when treated 110% correct.
The issue is holes in castings are generally made with cores rather than being part of the mold. Picking which surface to make your reference on raw castings is a bit of a crapshoot but using a larger diameter one off the mold like he did is way more sensible.
An important, dare I say, a critical aspect that you are overlooking, is dialing in the bottom of the dovetail. I think you lucked out and it seems it was pretty parallel with the base. But, it could have been fairly out of wack. What this would affect is that the swivel can bind up when rotating. It forces you to open up the clamp screw more than necessary. I've had a cheap chines vise do this. Working with and unwieldy peice trying to line something up only to have to let go of everything because the swivel locked up. The dovetail nut has to follow those angles and if it's cut out of parrallel it won't work smooth.
Good work, Adam!
I'm surprised you didn't turn the dovetail. That would have improved the turning a lot.
Awesome setup work.
What I noticed is that the outer ring is running out quite a bit, will that be an issue? Indicating on those dovetail surfaces is a little tricky, I bet if you angle the whole piece slightly in the chuck you can get both the inside and outside dovetail surfaces to run mostly true, it's just a question if that effort is wotrth it. I propably wouldn't be able to stop myself trying to machine the dovetail faces so the vise will be a treat to work with when it's finished.
again. thanks for the education
Enjoyed the video, thanks
Adam, have you thought about or considered drilling and tapping the jaws to accept small screws so you can install the soft copper jaw cushions?
I like that idea. Curtis (or Kurtis) at Cutting Edge Engineering runs big lathes on most of his jobs. He did a whole video on doing exactly that on a new chuck. Found it: How to DRILL & TAP Hard Jaws | Big Lathe Chuck.
Most excellent.
awsome i have never seen a surface gauge in use
Really nice video
For calculating the RPM to use, I'd think you'd want to start at the high end of the recommended range. If you're using your max diameter for the calculation, and you choose the minimum SFM, then as you move into the center, you're just going to drop below the min, no?
Maybe maybe not. On carbide one can certainly go faster than on HSS. But going too fast may trash a new and very expensive cutter especially on a rough casting. As it turned out, going for the low end of the speed, he got excellent results at both diameters with very little risk. He could have shifted to 279 (or even higher) and it would be within range for both the max and min diamters of the cut. I don't know what gear he was in that was noisy. Nothing wrong with playing it safe. On your own lathe with your own tooling you can, of course, make your own decisions.
I put my face my hand here 🧐🤓 would that be considered a face palm ??😁😆😅🤣😂
Don't they recommend the first cut be deep enough, to get under the scale in one go?
It's cast iron, not steel.
i WANT AN ABOM-HARDTAIL VISE.
Absolutely a great video!!! 🙂
Good work.
That would’ve been a good flex CNC part
Perfect,good job🤝🤝🙏🙏
You can make the 0.0006" When you remake the pivot bolt.
I know youre a great machinist. But using any kind of powered drill on the chuck of a lathe be it a 4 jaw or a scrollplate would be ill advised.
Nice looking mic.
Seems like it's be easier to clamp the thing down to a mill table after doing the top and fly cutting the bottom...
Love the vid!
Also miss the bbq vids
I havent been tuned into his adventures channel has he not been bbq'%ing over there?
Awesome 😎
Awesome mic
Great project Adam, the vise parts are looking good. Q. Maybe I missed it but if not, why did you not face off the bore before boring to size?
Thanks for sharing.
Make a bar that holds a tool bit to reach out a then face off . Unless the jaw are not long enough to to reach
HI after watching this set up it would have been easy to place on the milling machine with clamps to the feet
Could you center the plate more easily using the tail stock to press it into the chuck? I'm sure I've seen conical attachments for the tail stock which would center the work piece when gently seated in the hole for the swivel bolt.
I know enough to know I don't know enough, so my questions are from curiosity and not criticism.
Hi Adam, you must be one of the best machinist on RUclips. I love your video's. Lately I found myself that I skip a lot of video going to actual machining. In this specific video it took 14 minutes to setup / explain the high's and low's (which I already saw in 100 of your video's). Honestly I think you can show much more machining with quick reference to what you're doing. Still watching them but skip a lot. I can promise you that you will get much more views. Although this my honest opinion, I still enjoy the video's.
C'mon - you have spent the last few years buying machinery and you don't have anything with enough swing 😮😂😂
And, the only reason I'm still subscribed is that I'm praying that you will do something that I can learn from
That lathe sounds like it's going to grenade at any second... whats clanging and banging inside the gearbox?
Amatuer me thinks the mill would be easier, quicker & more accurate?. Still enjoyed. 😊
Easier... maybe, until you got the center hole. I'm not sure I noticed any excess effort required to do it this way; it seemed pretty straightforward to me.
Quicker? Maybe, maybe not.
More accurate? I doubt it. Accurate enough, yes, probably. But machining a nice rotating surface on a nice rotating machine, that just makes sense. The mill is goin to leave all those wacky milling marks all pointing the wrong directions. The potential for minor tramming issues to influence the result. The fact that his mill frankly just isn't as beefy as that lathe. That we would have to abandon single-point turning. It just doesn't seem right.
Use a faceplate and the mounting holes on the vise base.
He needs to face off the entire bottom surface. I thought he was going to run it across the old shaper at the home shop. Looks like he maybe trying to setup for a production run though (special fixtures, tooling, measuring).
@@ke5wl804 Just use the clamp wedges and some bolts through the faceplate!
With the upper surface already cleaned in the first operation, this gives a perfect register.
He's going to do the inside of the dynamic jaw tube on the shaper.
that micrometer only measures in freedom units. :)
Would have been the perfect part for the cnc mill. A SIMPLE operation 1 g02/g03 with a i/k offset and done lol (ofc some g00 to move where you want it but that's obvious)
Using G02 would be a conventional cut. CNC machines do better climb milling
Not everything has to be CNC. Some people actually enjoy using Manual Machines and learning an actual trade not computer programming. He is in no rush to complete this vise. It is a hobby project.
@@caploader111 i was just giving an example, for training purposes ofc he can use G03.
There is definitely a pocket cycle premade in the machine itself to begin with, he could even use that if he wanted to.
@@demonknight7965 I enjoy manual machining as much as anybody else, trust me at work i try to avoid using CNC when possible and still i would have done this on the cnc any day. just because of all the indicating..
Clamp it down 3d probe it, simple program, done.
@@FireGodSpeed There's something great about seeing the Pacemaker doing it's job, rather like an old V8 engine that is slower and less refined than the electric motor but speaks a language of emotion and heritage that the electric motor finds pointless and unnecessary. It's a tough trade off for sure but the knowledge seems important to me.
3D probing and axis correction; truly amazing what can be done. Even the vice Adam is working on might be somewhat old-school these days.
Hello teacher, can you put subtitles in Spanish for your Spanish-speaking followers, I love your videos, it's a shame I don't know English, greetings
Adam, another great video.
Question: What ever became of the radial arm drill press?
I was looking forward to him restoring it
Same thing with the Oliver drill grinder but I'm guessing none of that will happen now. His priorities have changed.
The Pakistani manufacturing RUclipss the machinist use a simple piece of wire to indicate, given how worn the lathes they use are this is plenty good enough.
I don’t think they ever clean or,lubricate those machines either. I guess there is no point,since the dust from the dirt floor would🎉mix with the oil and,make a abrasive paste.
Its called a stylus, you can make it out of a coat hangar. In fact its the best wire for it.
@@jamesdavis8021They do what they need to get the job done as quickly as possible, and still meet the customer specs. They can't afford OCD machinists - that's how they make their stuff 1/10th the cost of USA made.
Adam, could give the specs (model # etc) on the KBC vertical mill that you purchased for your new shop, I'd like to purchase the same unit.
I'm saddened by not getting to see the bottom faced off
Future video im sure
Question. why hasn't he turned the dovetail too?
Thought the inside needed machining too. For the thingies the lock the wise from turnening
Mmmm.... dunno. Maybe it locks better without being so smooth? Unnecessary complexity? I'm guessing a full-time vise-making company would probably skip it, too. Just guessing! You gotta know when good enough is good enough. For that smooth rotation, though... it's nice. :-)
Hi Adam, is there a reason you did not skim the dovetails? The casting on the inside looks pretty rough.
Just wondering, when you do the bottom side, why use the lathe, and not the mill? Is it because of fixturing on the mill?
I wonder if someone could center a workpiece like this with a cone on the slide of the lathe.
If the next Hardtail vice video isn’t a shaper video I’m unsubscribing 😜. In all seriousness I’m really enjoying this series!!!
Hi Adam nice work!!!! How do I get a hold of you thank you Johnny.
Ps your black hardware came from who? thank you adam
Is this Vice going to the space shuttle?
Yes.
Face off with a boring bar that is in front of the carriage and use the chuck.
Surprised you didn't use the shaper for the bottom, just curious.
The shaper seems to have fallen out of fashion these days...