What I Look For In A Quality Fountain Pen
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- Опубликовано: 17 июл 2024
- Here I share some of the things I look for in a well made fountain pen. These of course are my own views, but come from a design and engineering perspective.
Maybe this will help you with your Black Friday and holiday shopping when selecting a pen.
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0:00 Intro
1:25 Metal Pens
2:50 Problems with painted pens
5:10 Plastic Pens
8:20 Pen Assembly
10:45 Examples of poor assembly
13:20 Poor thread examples
17:43 Spinning cap bands
18:47 Good thread examples
21:25 Faber Castel & amazing deal
24:05 Push caps Good & Bad
28:15 Worst Pen of 2021
29:18 Catch ya next time!
The best fountain pen channel for fp users that are not just collectors. Just balanced facts, no bullshit or hype stuff. Keep it up I love it
Happy you enjoy my vids 😁
There were so many good points in this video! I like how you have given us things to think about instead of just suggesting what pens to buy.
Glad you found it helpful. This is how I look at almost everything before I buy. Doesn't mean its what everyone should do, but a few things to be aware of so that problems don't arise.
1. Great vid, thanks. Keep that engineering coming, it is both interesting and useful.
2. After the first couple dozen pens I bought, I zeroed in on minimalistic cylindrical metal pens. I prefer the aesthetic, and I think the simplicity and the metal both will be more problem-free. But then after I bought another half-dozen of those, I discovered the NIB that I feel is best engineered (for me): the German schoolkid nib . Basically they are everything opposite of a flex nib. So now I bought another 9 beginner pens, with my preferred nib, but they are all kid's pens, so they come in cheaply-made plastic, complicated, cheerfully colored ridiculous bodies. I love them. If you accuse me of being a man of extremes, I will not have a comeback. It also appeals to my contrary nature, to prefer inexpensive childish beginner pens to snazzy fancy-material hoity-toity overpriced deluxe pens. Of which I own two. Sorry for the rambling. Oh, and the best is the Pelikan Pelikano jr.
Its good that you know what you like and don't like. Doesnt matter the looks of a pen. If it suits your needs and performs to your liking, mission accomplished. Fountain pens can sort of be like clothes. So many different styles, materials, functionalities, etc.
Great show and most informative. It's a refreshingly practical approach to have someone with an engineering background cast a sharp eye over the pens. Well done and thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thought I would share some of the things I look from an engineers POV
This is/was the single most interesting video on fountain pens that I have ever watched (sorry Goulet). Nice work and I love your enthusiasm and delivery.
Woah thanks buddy!😁 Glad you liked it. Tried to make it shorter but then 30 min later.....
This might be about pens but the information here can be applied to boatloads of manufactured goods. Very informative video indeed!
Great video, very informative.
Seriously loving your channel. I’m learning so much.
Hey good to hear, glad you get something practical out of my vids
Lovely collection!
Excellent video, DB! Most of these things are not even touched on by the vast majority of reviewers, but they are the factors I look for.
Thank you por pointing out all these flaws. I learned a lot. I will definitely start looking more carefully to the manufacturing of pens as I make my future purchases.
Glad you enjoyed
Thank you for this post really great information, I'm not an engineer but I like tinker with my fountain pens.you've just given me more things to look out before buying. Thank you
Hope it helps you out
I learn a lot from this, thank you.
Glad it was helpful
Really good information for the collector.
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic video from the "Master of Gesticulation"! 😉
I started mastering my gesticulation in my teenage years 😝. Lots & lots of practicing
Darn good overview. I think you’ve hit them all. One that I thought of that’s more of a design annoyance than a flaw is the threading on the barrel and section being looser than the cap to the section so you unscrew the top to use the pen but end up with the cap in one hand and the barrel in the other. I have a few pens like that.
I had wondered why Pelikans had high threading to cap but only took 3/4 turn. The multiple start points explains it now. Good eye for detail, DB!
Yeah the unscrewing of the barrel instead of the cap issue is definitely an annoyance. A bad nib can be annoying, but usually can be fixed/swapped/replaced. A bad/flawed design is very difficult to overcome.
Thanks, some great tips here, of the kind we don't see in most fountain pen reviews. I think the nib is always important, though, when the manufacturer's QC is not up to the mark to catch nibs that can't be fixed by the new owner (I'm looking at you, Stipula).
I wonder if you could do a video (or maybe you already have) about the engineering aspects of ink delivery systems, design mistakes that can cause skipping and hard starts, such as converters where the surface tension of the ink tends to keep it from flowing into the feed, or issues with the relationship between nib and feed that would be difficult for amateurs to fix, or whether screw-in nib units are better or worse than friction-fit (and what to watch out for). That would also be a treat.
A video I thought about doing, but feel I should develop some kind of testing to be able to show the differences. Like I did with the Flying With Pens vid. Could test all type of scenarios and pens and see the results.
@@Doodlebud I look forward to it, then, someday.
Yes! This!
Thank you
EXTRAORDINAIRE!!!
Very informative and well thought out. Made me very happy that I bought two Faber Castell E Motion Pure Black as my primary pens. Still need to order a M nib for my Lamy 2000. The F seems to be too picky to write comfortably with. Maybe I just need to adjust it though.
There are so many easy to miss details on the FC Emotion. But on top of that, it's a wonderfully writing pen. There's so many writing styles & preferences it's tricky to know if you'll like how a pen writes for you. That's why I look at bukd quality first so I know there won't be issues with that, then if the nib is off a bit I can adjust it to my likings. Can't adjust design flaws/issues but easy to tweak or even swap a nib.
I really want that Aero !
There's probably some Skookum deals to be had on one somewhere right now!
Very thorough doodlebud. Your channel will be at 100k subs in no time!
At my current growth rate should happen in about 23 years 😳
@@Doodlebud as an engineer, you know it’s a snowball effect. You’ll start hitting multiples in no time! Just remember me when you’re a superstar!
Oh yes, I'm also a financial planner now so compounding is something I explain everyday!
@@Doodlebud I wish I had some finances for you to plan!
Very good video
Thanks buddy!
Nice video!
Thanks!
Couldn't you have given us a warning before showing those ink boogers? You are a quality control specialist when it comes to fountain pens. Are there any fountain pen companies out there listening? Thank you for the video presentation.
You would have looked away if I warned you! People need to see our new ink booger overlords! If you think I notice small details on fountain pens, you should see when I deal with complex precision measurement equipment. There's no room for assembly errors and design flaws with precision or scientific apparatus.
キャップレス万年筆いいよ！
カスタム74も使いやすい！
Excellent presentation. I always look for all these criterias before getting a pen. Though some great looking pens out there, I always avoid getting one with blind caps or with threaded converters. A big NO for me as they will not hold up over time.
PS: Another thing I noticed with Pelikans, they uncap themselves in pen cases. Be careful when you are travelling. Less than a turn is good for uncapping, however, be ready to catch a pen that uncaps itself.
Ive had that with pelikans as well. But one seems to be their pens I have that issue on. Other multi start threads with less than 1 turn seem to work well. Maybe I can spend some time to get to the bottom of it!
@@Doodlebud I have never seen any reviewer talking about this problem. Everyone says, it takes less than a turn to uncap, very good for note taking, etc. I would love to see a video from you on this topic. After having ink leakage in the pen case a couple of times, I avoid taking a Pelikan out though I use them at home frequently. I believe it unturns because of the vibrations while travelling. Thank you. 😊
I think you are missing the point with the ring bands on caps or barrels... those are fidget spinners for pens :).
... also glue is too expensive better to use it sparingly :D ...
Maybe the workers just couldn't stop sniffing the glue so they got rid of it all together
@@Doodlebud I would not be surprised... especially if they work in a factory somewhere in China... overworked and underpaid. Gotta find a way to escape reality.
I've noticed that Platinum is one of the only pen makers using AS Resin to make their gold-nibbed resin pens. Can you speak a little bit to the differences in using AS Resin vs PMMA Resin for fountain pens? Sailor uses PMMA resin, while Platinum uses AS Resin, Lamy 2000/Platinum Preppy uses Polycarbonate, Lamy Safari uses ABS. I'd love to see a breakdown of these materials and their trade-offs for use in pens from an engineering and materials science perspective.
Yeah I'm planning on doing a video about all the different plastics. Plastic gets lumped all into one category but there are so many differences. I don't have much of a knowledge base when it comes to plastics, but will be doing some digging to learn more and come back with some findings.
@@Doodlebud I'd love to see that! Most people in the pen world don't seem to have much info on the plastics, and it would be nice to know more details. A plastics scientist I talked to made the point that there are also different grades within a plastic type, so fillers can affect the properties as well as just the "formula" for the plastic.
@@Doodlebud I have a Pilot 823, which I love, but I'm wondering why I spent over 300 bucks on it. Maybe the materials are that good. It seems to be bulletproof, though.
Great video. I usually a avoid painted pens due to the ease of scratching the surface. Lacquer is better but you have to be careful with handling. Urushi coated pens are the same problem for me. Great appearance but fearful of using them. Solid resin or anodized metal finishes are great for durability.
One other thing. If you have a pen made from celluloid, you have to be aware that the trim will become loose. Over time celluloid shrinks and fittings will become loose. Celluloid left in humid environment will also deteriorate. It crumbles.
Yup, celluloid is cool stuff but has its own issues as well.
Really? Celluloid does that?
Celluloid does have some peculiar properties, but if it’s kept in a cool, dry environment it will last many decades. I have Sheaffer celluloid pens that are 80 years old that have no issues at all.
I looked for only ‘gorgeous looks’ of Cross Wanderlust pen that I just ordered - hope it won’t be a mistake !
Gorgeous can be good too, hope you enjoy your new pen!
I don't have that much of an eye for detail to pick out little flaws like this. I know something is wrong when the cap doesn't screw on correctly ,comes off or is loose, etc.
Thanks for the video! I find the quality of the converter in my Montegrappa Elmo of poor quality. The pen is relatively new, inked less than 5 times. I hope Montegrappa sees your video.
The converter would be better without threading it for sure. One small little decision can create a potential flaw that could impact the long term functioning of the pen.
Use a touch of silicone grease on all threads.
What about the pilot Falcon...its simple and not fancy, yet quality
From what I've seen it's a great pen. Don't personally own one so couldn't give details. The video isn't so much about individual pens but more small details & features I look for
Comment for the algorithm
If you haven’t done a video on pens that can handle rough handling. I’d like to know if can get away from only converters and cartridges personally.
Regarding turned pens; why do some pen bodies seem thinner than others? Is this a cost saving measure? Does it save on material? Some turned pens; usually made by independent makers; are very substantial and good weight while some famous companies are producing very lightweight pens. Do you have any thoughts on that?
Being able to have a thinner wall lets you make more compact designs on your pens. Also its something that requires more expensive machinery to make the pens as well. From a designers or engineers mind, something that has extra unnecessary material is "clunky." There are also cost savings that come into play as well. Sometimes you need the thickness for strength. Pens are pretty light duty instruments so you don't need to have too much thickness to get sufficient strength. Also that can be solved with using a stronger material. If you need more weight you can add that into the pen by deciding where you want to weight to be added to give the desired balance. That can be done by using a different material or adding a sleeve of a heavier material to a lighter one. Just a few random thoughts on the topic
@@Doodlebud thank you so much.
Fountain Pens, are a personal taste....everyone has one..
Some like luxury pens, some are more focused on budget pens , disposable.
Some like gold nibs, others want a pen nib that works (steel)
Some like stiff nibs, others enjoy omni flex, soft nibs.
some like extra fine , fine, medium , stub, italic calligraphy
Some like PLASTIC resin, celluloid, Wood, rare materials or combination of a few etc
Some like custom made pens, others like having factory copy pens.
Some like a particular Brand of pen ex : Pilot , Lamy ,
Some like antique, while others prefer modern
Some like a certain country like Japan, china, germany or taiwan etc.
Some like a pen that is a workhorse, while others like a specialty calligraphy pen
Some like a pen that has a basic filling system like cartridges, or converters,..others like eyedropper, etc.
So many options.
Great overview of all the loves and niggles.
Pens are as temperamental and peculiar as people.
As with Chris rap, I like to lube my threads, ( -- I will NOT allow a thread , male or female, to suffer! ) but prefer using beeswax rather than silicone------- I know! : Before all you science material nerds inform me how deleterious this is for the pen, let's just say we'll all be long dead before then.
I cannot tolerate slip caps and push fits, notwithstanding how well they seal and how erotically charged the sensation is ; a pen should be threaded closed where it will be fully protected, at least until the world ends.
You have a fantastic selection of pens . I will take them and use them all. As this is a purely psychic manoeuvre, you won't even be aware they're missing...😂
A properly designed slip cap can it securely keep it on. I have some threaded caps that seemingly come loose all on their own. Threads should be more secure, but again if not done properly there can be problems.
Honestly one of my favorite EDC pens is the Lamy LX. I like the grip a lot and they look classy. But the anodizing on them is flat-out horrible. It blows my mind because it is supposed to be made in Germany and that should say a lot right there. But this is coming from a big-time Lamy fanboy, their anodizing is bad. It is some of the worst I have ever seen. I have 10-dollar pens that have far superior electro coatings than my LX's and AlStar's. I thought that they must be fake but they actually are not, I have done extensive comparisons on them with LXs that are absolutely 100% legit.
It just really sucks to see that the LX which is supposed to have a superior electro coating than the Alstar scratched off just by being in my backpack pocket with a couple other pens. I have had to switch to carrying an Asvine P36. It is a very good pen IMO, but I do love the grip and the writing feel of the LX. I mean it isn't the end of the world but still. I wish they would do better with their anodizing.
It's interesting that you spent 30 minutes talking about threads, caps, body materials, and sundry trivial minutiae without talking about the most crucial aspect to a pen's quality: how it WRITES. I don't care if a pen is milled out of fossilized unicorn poop to sub-micron precision and coated in adamantium with self-lubricating graphite-vibranium threads, if it doesn't write or doesn't write well out of the box, then it's utterly useless and should be chucked into the garbage can. This is precisely why it's inadvisable to spend money on a Visconti or a Pineider, no matter how pretty they look, how precisely made their bodies are, or how smooth their threads engage. At the end of the day, a pen is a tool, and a tool has to adequately fulfill its most important function.
Yup, a pen absolutely has to write well. The intent of this video was to point out design/manufacturing issues that people can be aware of when looking online. Nearly impossible to look at a pen & know how its going to write. Its super challenging to quantify how well a pen writes since there are so many different preferences when it comes to writing. And even then, there's no guarantee if we both order the same pen they'll will each write to our own preference. Nibs can be tuned, swapped, replaced, but a bad design/construction/coating/etc can ruin a pen that otherwise writes well. The inverse is of course also true, but easier to open or align some tines vs correct a manufacturing/design issue. At least that's my own approach, which is again a personal philosophy, and we all have our own.