great advice and knowledge, thanks mate. FYI you may want to pull pack a bit on your phone when videoing to allow more in your screen as to let your views see clearly what you may be trying to show them> keep ups the great work mate.
Hi, I am in western Pennsylvania install the Daikin about three years ago. First problem when I didn’t have AC they replace the motherboard worked for another year and then it wasn’t heating. Different company came in and replace the entire unit in December 1921. Heating seem to work fine through the winter and in June I went to use AC and it’s not working correctly. I get no drips out of the drain pipes and after a lot of monitoring it went from two units cooling out of four Janelle no units cooling out of four and I did check heating in that seems to work fine. Units that were working would work for hours at a time. Now they shut off in 10 minutes . And now I can’t even get a fault code on the troubleshooting from the remote. I had one company that came out and told me that it was at the time a code that said over under voltage or communication between indoor and outdoor system faulty. I had gotten that on my own and they charge me $380 to tell me that. I don’t know if they use that AC dongle that you had. Any suggestions what I could do at this point. I’d like to call another company but I also don’t want to have to start all over. I don’t even know if you’re still monitoring this post but I’m trying to figure out what to try next.
You really need to get someone who is knowledgeable with Daikin systems, the Daikin systems are far more advanced than the standard type air-conditioner available in the USA. Look for a Daikin authorised repairer/dealer. I think that’s gonna be your best bet, ask them if they have experience with this type of system, Daikin units are not basic and simple but if you have the correct manuals and tools they are definitely not difficult to work out, just need the right technical manual for the system your working on.
Sounds like it could be miss wired or refrigeration leak, there is an auto wiring test button that check the correct pipes and cables are going to the correct indoor unit. The year will auto correct incorrect wiring, but if the power is off for an extended period it will revert back to normal. We would normally run the wiring test, then physically correct the wiring then put it back into test to auto correct back to standard.
A two year service tech here. Been following channel ever since I found it. Very much appreciate your video. Always intimating going to a call with a mini split. Anyway, what was that device you plug into the outdoor unit.
Thanks so much for this video. We have a RZQ160LY1A outdoor unit. Last year it started to hardly heat in winter. Had the tech out but he could not find any fault, though he saw a U0 error code on the controller. He checked the gas and said it was fine but topped up a little in any case, and said the U0 was probably from when it was installed like 7 years before. He concluded that nothing was wrong even though the air temperature was barely 5 deg hotter on the outlets than the inlet. After seeing this video, I found that one of the reasons for the U0 code is a faulty thermistor. So I bought a thermistor set from Daikin and installed it myself - problem fixed. Now heating like it should - 15+ deg temp diff. Last problem I have is how to clear the U0 code on the BRC 8 zone controller (from 2014) - can you help with that? Thankyou!
The biggest problem with the air conditioning industry is underqualified people, electricians can do a two day course and get a cert II in refrigeration, where is all of our staff have done a four year apprenticeship and have a cert III. You just can’t learn in two days what we learn in a 4 year apprenticeship. I am glad I have been able to help you with this, its good that you have solved the problem 👍🏻. One other thing, your system is critically charged and the only way to tell if it short of gas is by removing it and checking the weight of the gas. You just can’t top up. See how your system goes. If it starts playing up I would recommend weighting in a fresh charge of refrigerant gas.
@@bob_mllr I don’t believe so, with the standard controller it allows you to set the date / time, this gives the fault a time / date stamp so you know if it’s new or old. It also keeps a list faults that have occurred.
@@FullyAirconditioned OK, no problem. Thanks again for the video. I would add that if anyone reads this and wants to do this repair themselves, replacing the thermistor set is not a job I would recommend the average person doing unless they are somewhat familiar with industrial equipment and know what they are doing around high voltages. Get a qualified person to do the repair. Cheers!
I had a daikin RZQ250L (24/27kW premium ducted inverter) installed 6 months ago after upgrading to 3 phase. I live in sydney (currently 20 degrees). i live in 220sqm house with 8 zones. when i set aircon to heating 32 degrees the air is only coming out of the vents at 32 degrees (i bought an infrared thermometer) when the room is 20 degrees. I can barely even warm a small room - is this normal - i would have thought the air should be coming out of the vent a lot warmer. my split system in a rumpus room outside the air comes out at 56 degrees by comparison. We had someone out to look at the system and they said everything was working normally!
Not a fan of this big unit, have had a lot of issues. Where do I start. Is it the heating focus unit, if not it’s being held back in heating because the it’s R22 retrofit-able (can use the old refrigerant pipes from R22 units). If it’s a new installation with new pipe work get Daikin out to make some modifications so it’s not held back in head pressure. They Will bridge out the hp circuit and make some adjustments in the outdoors pc board. Also out of the box this unit is set to efficient so is very slow to react there is setting that can be made by the installed to make it respond quicker and heat faster. There is also a setting to make the target indoor coil temp higher. This is all in the installation instructions for the outdoor unit. Had massive problems with this unit (and the two sizes below it) when they 1st came out, had Daikin make the changes above to about 25-30 units. The heating focus unit has the changes done from factory and you must use new pipe work. But still need the quick response set. The other problem with this unit is the coil is now forced draft (old one was induced draft, so better more even heat transfer from the coil). The 2nd problem is the coils refrigeration flow is in the same direction as the air flow, good for cool be not so good for heating, only unit I know that has the refrigerant flow in the opposite direction 🤯. The next big thing is airflow and not enough zones open, this unit is not very good with zoning dew to the counter flow coil and forced draft. Daikin had to up the rated air flow for this unit by an extra 200l/sec, because it didn’t deliver what it said on paper, the problem with the extra air flow is reduced air temp coming out the vents. If you get the above changes done it will 100% better.
@@FullyAirconditioned Just a follow up - daikin came out and made some setting changes and heating now working well thank goodness. Other prob they found was installer put too much refrigerant in it (R410A).
I just installed FDMA100AV1A and RZAV100CV1 with wall controller 63 heating 80 Sq Mt open plan lounge to 23 degrees C take 2 hours at start room temperature was 17 and outside 9 is this normal I used infrared thermometer to check diffuser was blowing 30 C Can you advise installer says that is normal
This is a New Zealand Daikin unit, we don’t have the one to one connection of this system, but do have the VRV indoor unit that is very similar. Set the highest static fan setting and see if that makes any difference, the VRV unit like this doesn’t have a very hight static fan, so it may not be getting enough air flow,. If the coil reaches its desired coil temp, it won’t let the unit speed up any further. I think it should be good for 80m2. You could always check the total current draw to see if it’s drawing current equivalent to what it says it will draw, should be around 12amps running at maximum or higher, if it’s not, then further investigation into what’s holding it back.
Hi, I am not familiar with that outdoor unit, that said I am guessing that its a 5 head multi system with the each heads piping running back to the outdoor unit, have you checked that the heads are wired and pipes to the correct ports. In heating all heads get gas running to them as the tx valve is on the return line once the indoor unit fill up with gas and it condense to a liquid no more gas will flow and heat output drops off. You can run the multi head through an wiring check from the outdoor unit. Once the sets has been done the unit auto corrects the electrical wiring and the LED lights flashing in the connected sequence. You can leave it like this or correct the wiring, If you correct the wiring you will need to put it into test again so it auto corrects. The main reason you would fix the wiring if the power is off for a long time the unit may revert back to factory setting causing the same problem. There is instructions on how to put the unit into wiring test on the back of the outdoor unit cover. Try this 1st
I have a Daikin FTXN18KVJU in a small1 bedroom apartment. Mid december it stopped heating and there is no heat icon even available on the remote. It's like it's stuck in AC mode. We checked the dip switch and that's not it. The service person thinks its the remote gone bad, the A/C and fan works and the green light isn't flashing. Of course the remote is discontinued and he can't find a new one. he's coming out today to try a different universal remote. Just wondering if you have any insight. I'm on a small island in Alaska and we have limited people here that can work on these.
Is it a multi head or VRV system ?? Is there one outdoor unit for each indoor unit?? Some times in apartments they will has a central system with one outdoor unit connected to multiple outdoor units, this would be a VRV system. This system will have a master indoor unit, the master indoor unit dictates what heating cooling functions are availability on all indoor units. If it’s not a VRV system (one outdoor unit connected to one indoor unit) have you tried resetting the power and resetting the remote controller. On the Australian units there is a small hole on the remote that you can put a straighten out paper clip to reset it. You can also try taking the batteries out for 15min, and install fresh batteries. Also try power reset to the system, turn off the power at the switch board and leave it off for 15min. You should be able to order a new remote controller from daikin or a daikin dealership, indoor model No is what they will need to ordered in the correct one.
No it dose not, it main abjectly is to provide heating and cooling, while working with a safe range for the unit. The problem is the fault sensor, the unit will always try to keep running providing some heating and cooling.
Installer set field setting to speed 15 and to stop blowing when temperature reaches it’s blowing fast but 1 degree before set temperature start blowing slow I got 3 speed settings no auto Checked indoor status speed is H Can you advise what to check
To set the fan to cycle off when thermostat is off you need to set the setting 21-2-02, from factory its set to blow low fan speed, default 21-2-01, this is set through the BRC1E63 wall mounted controller. see video on setting up Daikin BRC1E63
This is what mine does. I freeze. I have had multiple people out and they say no issues working fine. I have the heater on 30 and still cold. How do I get someone out to check this. When they come out they don't seem to listen to me
Your unit may be working fine, but when the unit goes into defrost it stop heating for 10min, that 10min it actually steals heat from inside your home. So it’s a double negative now your unit has been running for 1hour but only giving you 40 min of heat. Basically 66% of its original capacity. Then as it’s gets cold outside, there is less heat in the air, so the capacity of the system is less. All units in Australian are rated on heating @ +6 degrees outside air temperature. That’s fine if you live in the warmer areas, but when you live in Canberra or other cold places you really need to be looking at what capacity the system has @-5 outside air temps. A daikin FDYQ160 has a rated capacity of 18kw @+6, this capacity drops to 13.0kw when it’s -5 outside, then add in a defrost and now your 18kw unit is only delivering 8.7kw when it’s -5 out side in a 1hour period. It is very important that the correct size air conditioning system is selected. When living in cold climates like Canberra, we selecting system at there -5 capacity, rating not the +6 capacity that’s is stated in the brochure.
@@FullyAirconditioned my house is large I gave plans to heating business to select correct size unit. They said they have. I live in Ballarat Victoria and is cold like Canberra. How do I know, correct issues. I can't find anyone who might know Daikin well enough to fix issue
@@taniajennings287 let’s say it’s 220m2 of conditioned area, (not including bath laundry and ensuit). You need a capacity of around 24kw, I would have selected a Daikin FDYQ250 to do that area.
Hi, need you advise. Out of 6/7 rooms, my rooms heater/cooler is not working. The air speed has reduced a lot. Just for my room. And another rooms airflow has increased. I thought it may be that flaps have closed but I cannot find the flaps anywhere i can access them. Ive got a daikin central AC with field setting option. Please help as in winter i will freeze without heating.
@@Pranammodi have you checked the simple things first, is the filter clean, has the filter been washed or replaced. How quickly has this reduction in air flow happened. Is there anything else that’s happened around the same time, someone working in the roof.
@@Pranammodi possibly a duct has come off or maybe if the filter was very dirty could have sucked the duct in blocking air flow, but this doesn’t explain the increase in air flow to a few outlets. Could have a crushed duct but someone would have had bee in the roof to crushed it. Could be faulty duct work, I have seen delaminated ducts on the supply air side, where the ducts inner skin balloons out blocking air flow. Don’t think it’s a fan problem as it would be an even reduction in air flow to all vents. You will need to inspect the duct, look at the lay out and work at what branch dose the air flow drop off. Then un-tape that duct and inspect inside to see if it’s crushed or blocked in side.
Dear Sir. I have watched some of your videos looking for the trouble of my machine. It is a Daikin Altherma without AC heating, compact model EBHQ016BB6V3 and room controler arc480a53. No fault code. Daikin techinician dose not find, till nowm the solution. Can I describe you the trouble and let me know your knowhow or solution? Thanks and regards.
@@FullyAirconditioned Many thanks. Description. shutdown the machine has always the sun and pump icons blinking in the interface unit. If I start the machine never starts the compressor neither the fans. No fault code and connecting the bluetooth device dows not responde. Emergency mode runs correctly starting all and heating normally.
@@FullyAirconditioned sorry. 9 years working correctly. In summer (shutdown) suddenly started blinking icons. I did not used since december 2021. In february 2022 electrical company changed the electricity meter.
@@javierrelano5066 if its in fault it should come up with a fault code, is this a wireless controller ?? if so you need to work out where the receiver is and go through the fault cote test procedure, see video ruclips.net/video/sXnDIGLX7RU/видео.html
great advice and knowledge, thanks mate. FYI you may want to pull pack a bit on your phone when videoing to allow more in your screen as to let your views see clearly what you may be trying to show them> keep ups the great work mate.
Thanks for the info, very helpful! For an old fridgy like me😊
Hi, I am in western Pennsylvania install the Daikin about three years ago. First problem when I didn’t have AC they replace the motherboard worked for another year and then it wasn’t heating. Different company came in and replace the entire unit in December 1921. Heating seem to work fine through the winter and in June I went to use AC and it’s not working correctly. I get no drips out of the drain pipes and after a lot of monitoring it went from two units cooling out of four Janelle no units cooling out of four and I did check heating in that seems to work fine. Units that were working would work for hours at a time. Now they shut off in 10 minutes . And now I can’t even get a fault code on the troubleshooting from the remote. I had one company that came out and told me that it was at the time a code that said over under voltage or communication between indoor and outdoor system faulty. I had gotten that on my own and they charge me $380 to tell me that. I don’t know if they use that AC dongle that you had. Any suggestions what I could do at this point. I’d like to call another company but I also don’t want to have to start all over. I don’t even know if you’re still monitoring this post but I’m trying to figure out what to try next.
You really need to get someone who is knowledgeable with Daikin systems, the Daikin systems are far more advanced than the standard type air-conditioner available in the USA. Look for a Daikin authorised repairer/dealer. I think that’s gonna be your best bet, ask them if they have experience with this type of system, Daikin units are not basic and simple but if you have the correct manuals and tools they are definitely not difficult to work out, just need the right technical manual for the system your working on.
Sounds like it could be miss wired or refrigeration leak, there is an auto wiring test button that check the correct pipes and cables are going to the correct indoor unit. The year will auto correct incorrect wiring, but if the power is off for an extended period it will revert back to normal. We would normally run the wiring test, then physically correct the wiring then put it back into test to auto correct back to standard.
A two year service tech here. Been following channel ever since I found it. Very much appreciate your video. Always intimating going to a call with a mini split. Anyway, what was that device you plug into the outdoor unit.
Daikin Dchecker, give you all the data to see what’s not right in the system, it’s only for Daikin units.
Thanks so much for this video. We have a RZQ160LY1A outdoor unit. Last year it started to hardly heat in winter. Had the tech out but he could not find any fault, though he saw a U0 error code on the controller. He checked the gas and said it was fine but topped up a little in any case, and said the U0 was probably from when it was installed like 7 years before. He concluded that nothing was wrong even though the air temperature was barely 5 deg hotter on the outlets than the inlet. After seeing this video, I found that one of the reasons for the U0 code is a faulty thermistor. So I bought a thermistor set from Daikin and installed it myself - problem fixed. Now heating like it should - 15+ deg temp diff. Last problem I have is how to clear the U0 code on the BRC 8 zone controller (from 2014) - can you help with that? Thankyou!
The biggest problem with the air conditioning industry is underqualified people, electricians can do a two day course and get a cert II in refrigeration, where is all of our staff have done a four year apprenticeship and have a cert III. You just can’t learn in two days what we learn in a 4 year apprenticeship. I am glad I have been able to help you with this, its good that you have solved the problem 👍🏻.
One other thing, your system is critically charged and the only way to tell if it short of gas is by removing it and checking the weight of the gas. You just can’t top up. See how your system goes. If it starts playing up I would recommend weighting in a fresh charge of refrigerant gas.
@@FullyAirconditioned OK noted re the gas charge. Can the U0 error be cleared?
@@bob_mllr I don’t believe so, with the standard controller it allows you to set the date / time, this gives the fault a time / date stamp so you know if it’s new or old. It also keeps a list faults that have occurred.
@@FullyAirconditioned OK, no problem. Thanks again for the video. I would add that if anyone reads this and wants to do this repair themselves, replacing the thermistor set is not a job I would recommend the average person doing unless they are somewhat familiar with industrial equipment and know what they are doing around high voltages. Get a qualified person to do the repair. Cheers!
I had a daikin RZQ250L (24/27kW premium ducted inverter) installed 6 months ago after upgrading to 3 phase. I live in sydney (currently 20 degrees). i live in 220sqm house with 8 zones. when i set aircon to heating 32 degrees the air is only coming out of the vents at 32 degrees (i bought an infrared thermometer) when the room is 20 degrees. I can barely even warm a small room - is this normal - i would have thought the air should be coming out of the vent a lot warmer. my split system in a rumpus room outside the air comes out at 56 degrees by comparison. We had someone out to look at the system and they said everything was working normally!
Not a fan of this big unit, have had a lot of issues. Where do I start. Is it the heating focus unit, if not it’s being held back in heating because the it’s R22 retrofit-able (can use the old refrigerant pipes from R22 units). If it’s a new installation with new pipe work get Daikin out to make some modifications so it’s not held back in head pressure. They Will bridge out the hp circuit and make some adjustments in the outdoors pc board. Also out of the box this unit is set to efficient so is very slow to react there is setting that can be made by the installed to make it respond quicker and heat faster. There is also a setting to make the target indoor coil temp higher. This is all in the installation instructions for the outdoor unit. Had massive problems with this unit (and the two sizes below it) when they 1st came out, had Daikin make the changes above to about 25-30 units. The heating focus unit has the changes done from factory and you must use new pipe work. But still need the quick response set. The other problem with this unit is the coil is now forced draft (old one was induced draft, so better more even heat transfer from the coil). The 2nd problem is the coils refrigeration flow is in the same direction as the air flow, good for cool be not so good for heating, only unit I know that has the refrigerant flow in the opposite direction 🤯. The next big thing is airflow and not enough zones open, this unit is not very good with zoning dew to the counter flow coil and forced draft. Daikin had to up the rated air flow for this unit by an extra 200l/sec, because it didn’t deliver what it said on paper, the problem with the extra air flow is reduced air temp coming out the vents. If you get the above changes done it will 100% better.
Have had a number of people contact me about problems with this unit, think I will make a video on it when I get time.
@@FullyAirconditioned Thank you so much for taking the time to respond! legend. I hope this will help 🤞
@@FullyAirconditioned Just a follow up - daikin came out and made some setting changes and heating now working well thank goodness. Other prob they found was installer put too much refrigerant in it (R410A).
@@mannas46 thanks for the update 👍🏻
I just installed FDMA100AV1A and RZAV100CV1 with wall controller 63 heating 80 Sq Mt open plan lounge to 23 degrees C take 2 hours at start room temperature was 17 and outside 9 is this normal
I used infrared thermometer to check diffuser was blowing 30 C
Can you advise installer says that is normal
This is a New Zealand Daikin unit, we don’t have the one to one connection of this system, but do have the VRV indoor unit that is very similar. Set the highest static fan setting and see if that makes any difference, the VRV unit like this doesn’t have a very hight static fan, so it may not be getting enough air flow,. If the coil reaches its desired coil temp, it won’t let the unit speed up any further. I think it should be good for 80m2. You could always check the total current draw to see if it’s drawing current equivalent to what it says it will draw, should be around 12amps running at maximum or higher, if it’s not, then further investigation into what’s holding it back.
I have a 5mxs48tvju do same problem 5 heads first start heat like 90 Fahrenheit and like 30 min later just 60 do you think is same sensor the problem
Hi,
I am not familiar with that outdoor unit, that said I am guessing that its a 5 head multi system with the each heads piping running back to the outdoor unit, have you checked that the heads are wired and pipes to the correct ports. In heating all heads get gas running to them as the tx valve is on the return line once the indoor unit fill up with gas and it condense to a liquid no more gas will flow and heat output drops off. You can run the multi head through an wiring check from the outdoor unit. Once the sets has been done the unit auto corrects the electrical wiring and the LED lights flashing in the connected sequence. You can leave it like this or correct the wiring, If you correct the wiring you will need to put it into test again so it auto corrects. The main reason you would fix the wiring if the power is off for a long time the unit may revert back to factory setting causing the same problem. There is instructions on how to put the unit into wiring test on the back of the outdoor unit cover. Try this 1st
Thanks for you answer I will see tomorrow ,
I have a Daikin FTXN18KVJU in a small1 bedroom apartment. Mid december it stopped heating and there is no heat icon even available on the remote. It's like it's stuck in AC mode. We checked the dip switch and that's not it. The service person thinks its the remote gone bad, the A/C and fan works and the green light isn't flashing. Of course the remote is discontinued and he can't find a new one. he's coming out today to try a different universal remote. Just wondering if you have any insight. I'm on a small island in Alaska and we have limited people here that can work on these.
Is it a multi head or VRV system ??
Is there one outdoor unit for each indoor unit?? Some times in apartments they will has a central system with one outdoor unit connected to multiple outdoor units, this would be a VRV system. This system will have a master indoor unit, the master indoor unit dictates what heating cooling functions are availability on all indoor units. If it’s not a VRV system (one outdoor unit connected to one indoor unit) have you tried resetting the power and resetting the remote controller. On the Australian units there is a small hole on the remote that you can put a straighten out paper clip to reset it. You can also try taking the batteries out for 15min, and install fresh batteries. Also try power reset to the system, turn off the power at the switch board and leave it off for 15min. You should be able to order a new remote controller from daikin or a daikin dealership, indoor model No is what they will need to ordered in the correct one.
Great video. Just a quick question, as the system gets stuck in a repeating logic loop, wouldn’t it time itself out and stop altogether?
No it dose not, it main abjectly is to provide heating and cooling, while working with a safe range for the unit. The problem is the fault sensor, the unit will always try to keep running providing some heating and cooling.
Installer set field setting to speed 15 and to stop blowing when temperature reaches it’s blowing fast but 1 degree before set temperature start blowing slow I got 3 speed settings no auto
Checked indoor status speed is H
Can you advise what to check
To set the fan to cycle off when thermostat is off you need to set the setting 21-2-02, from factory its set to blow low fan speed, default 21-2-01, this is set through the BRC1E63 wall mounted controller. see video on setting up Daikin BRC1E63
This is what mine does. I freeze. I have had multiple people out and they say no issues working fine. I have the heater on 30 and still cold. How do I get someone out to check this. When they come out they don't seem to listen to me
Your unit may be working fine, but when the unit goes into defrost it stop heating for 10min, that 10min it actually steals heat from inside your home. So it’s a double negative now your unit has been running for 1hour but only giving you 40 min of heat. Basically 66% of its original capacity. Then as it’s gets cold outside, there is less heat in the air, so the capacity of the system is less. All units in Australian are rated on heating @ +6 degrees outside air temperature. That’s fine if you live in the warmer areas, but when you live in Canberra or other cold places you really need to be looking at what capacity the system has @-5 outside air temps. A daikin FDYQ160 has a rated capacity of 18kw @+6, this capacity drops to 13.0kw when it’s -5 outside, then add in a defrost and now your 18kw unit is only delivering 8.7kw when it’s -5 out side in a 1hour period. It is very important that the correct size air conditioning system is selected. When living in cold climates like Canberra, we selecting system at there -5 capacity, rating not the +6 capacity that’s is stated in the brochure.
@@FullyAirconditioned my house is large I gave plans to heating business to select correct size unit. They said they have. I live in Ballarat Victoria and is cold like Canberra. How do I know, correct issues. I can't find anyone who might know Daikin well enough to fix issue
@@taniajennings287 if you can tell me how m2 the condition areas is, the ceiling height, I can tell you what system we would have installed.
@@FullyAirconditioned I think house area is about 28m2 and 2.4 ceiling height
@@taniajennings287 let’s say it’s 220m2 of conditioned area, (not including bath laundry and ensuit). You need a capacity of around 24kw, I would have selected a Daikin FDYQ250 to do that area.
Hi, need you advise. Out of 6/7 rooms, my rooms heater/cooler is not working. The air speed has reduced a lot. Just for my room. And another rooms airflow has increased. I thought it may be that flaps have closed but I cannot find the flaps anywhere i can access them. Ive got a daikin central AC with field setting option. Please help as in winter i will freeze without heating.
More information, what’s type of unit is this, a ducted system, multi split system. Where are you located US Australia Canada
@@FullyAirconditioned it is a ducted system, company-daikin(just like the one in your field setting video). I am in Australia.
@@Pranammodi have you checked the simple things first, is the filter clean, has the filter been washed or replaced. How quickly has this reduction in air flow happened. Is there anything else that’s happened around the same time, someone working in the roof.
@@FullyAirconditioned filter has been washed and the change happened in a single day. No work has happened on roof.
@@Pranammodi possibly a duct has come off or maybe if the filter was very dirty could have sucked the duct in blocking air flow, but this doesn’t explain the increase in air flow to a few outlets. Could have a crushed duct but someone would have had bee in the roof to crushed it. Could be faulty duct work, I have seen delaminated ducts on the supply air side, where the ducts inner skin balloons out blocking air flow. Don’t think it’s a fan problem as it would be an even reduction in air flow to all vents. You will need to inspect the duct, look at the lay out and work at what branch dose the air flow drop off. Then un-tape that duct and inspect inside to see if it’s crushed or blocked in side.
Dear Sir. I have watched some of your videos looking for the trouble of my machine. It is a Daikin Altherma without AC heating, compact model EBHQ016BB6V3 and room controler arc480a53. No fault code. Daikin techinician dose not find, till nowm the solution. Can I describe you the trouble and let me know your knowhow or solution? Thanks and regards.
Tell me your problem and I will see off I can help, haven’t done a lot of work on altherma but let’s see how I go 😊
@@FullyAirconditioned Many thanks. Description. shutdown the machine has always the sun and pump icons blinking in the interface unit. If I start the machine never starts the compressor neither the fans. No fault code and connecting the bluetooth device dows not responde. Emergency mode runs correctly starting all and heating normally.
@@javierrelano5066 some back ground please, how long have you had it, was it working before, has anything happen recently.
@@FullyAirconditioned sorry. 9 years working correctly. In summer (shutdown) suddenly started blinking icons. I did not used since december 2021. In february 2022 electrical company changed the electricity meter.
@@javierrelano5066 if its in fault it should come up with a fault code, is this a wireless controller ?? if so you need to work out where the receiver is and go through the fault cote test procedure, see video ruclips.net/video/sXnDIGLX7RU/видео.html
Erreur pj