Thanks so much for this video. Our house came with an old SuperFlame oil heater in the garage. I had never seen one of these before. Took the same approach and just tore into it to get it figured out. Was worried enough about it that I drug it out into the middle of our driveway the first time I fired it up like I was about to light off fireworks. It has since been heating our garage for the last 3 winters with no issue other than I had to run it wide open as the flame would extinguish if I tried to turn it down so the garage would get unbearably hot. Your video has helped me understand how to get the upper and lower flow limits set properly and now the garage stays at a very comfortable temperature and my fuel lasts much longer. It really is a chore trying to find any info on these old heaters. Finding your video was like striking gold! 👍👍👍🍻
Hey, I'm repairing my central heating in my old house. I have a very similar "controller" and needed an exploded view. Your video is very well done and gave me all I needed. The model I have (from a Buderus) is newer, but they actually kept the same functions just adding a few "electronic" on top of this. Many many thanks from Germany 😊👌
I was doing maintenance on my 20 year old Raeburn stove in readiness for Christmas cake and Christmas puddings to be made by my wife, but found that after I had cleaned up the burners and replaced the wicks the oil flow just wasn't there. Now I understand that bit more. Thank you.
did you get to fix your problem? I'm have the same issue with my aga. After watching this I'm going to open up the control box and see if there are any obvious reasons why the flow could be blocked.
@@richard6863 No. Whilst it was good to clean out the encrusted gunge from the inlet pipe to the burner, I now think that the problem stems from a kink in the pipe leading from the oil tank outside. Judging by the gunge, it looks like it might be good idea to replace the oil filter from the tank anyway.
It's always worth checking the pipe leg between the control valve and the burner pan, as this pipe can become blocked due to oil that solidifies (carbonised) within the pipe due to its proximity to the burner pan. Modern low-sulphur kerosene heating oil is more prone to this than the old fuel. Atmospheric stoves like Rayburns and AGAs are prone to this. You can buy additives for your oil tank to reduce the chance of this. When our oil supplier knew that we had a Rayburn, he always poured some additive into our tank at the time of oil delivery.
Thanks man, really helpful. I found a manual for one of these and your description is far more precise/practical. My heater is a 2005 OLMAR model and it used one of these with some extra electronics on top.
We have one of these on our fairly recently made Franco-Belge oil stove. Never a bit of trouble. We live in a rural area prone to power outages, and it's good to know that we'll still have heat when the power is off.
Excellent video. Clear explanation of how this type of valve works. So good to hear the enthusiasm for a mechanical control system. I have this type of valve on a stove bought brand new in 2000. I have installation and user guides but they do not give this level of technical information. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks so much from Wales. I have an oil fired Rayburn stove/water heater. I love it, it’s simple with no electronics, and needs no electricity to work. Just acquired a spare control valve from a junked stove, as a spare, in case the one on my stove needs work. I have the confidence now to check the insides out.
Thank you so much for posting this awesome video. I’m reviving an old siegler today and this video has been extremely helpful. I’m one of the 8 guys that needed info.
I have a couple of these heaters running in my shop and one in my cabin. One i picked up from the dump, my 3rd one I am in search for and oil control valve for. These are great heaters. I love old technology!
Thank you so much for the video. Exactly what I needed, our new house was cold, the wife was mad that I didn’t know how to do start it. fumes,smoke. Saw this video and it works great, warm and toasty!
Thank you, i needed this, we have an old school kerosene heater that i got from my time in the Armed forces. This helped, my filter was dirty and the valve had dirt in it. Cleaned it up and now working.
I run a few of these, they are the best thing for off the grid life, bullet proof units and yes you can still buy these! they are aimed towards arctic living and boats
I got the exact same one on a old heaterola that I restored about a year ago .After a good soaking in carb cleaner I used a stopwatch and a tiny measuring cup to set the high and low settings 5cc/min on low and 35cc/min on high. Took for ever but but works great. I wish this video was out then would've been a big help.lol
Thank you for the great video. I have bought a small farm with a workshop. It have a double diesel burner to heat the workshop. On of the chamber was heating werry poorly. After seeing your video I was able to get it serviced and now both chamers gets a even flow of fuel and heats werry good. Thank you agen.
Thanks for the video. I heat my little shop with one these units. And it was super hard to find any actual info on it when I was trying to to research what it was
In the UK many country homes use an Aga oil fired stove. Nearly all of these Aga's use that sort of oil control valve so this is a useful; video. Thank you from England
Great video, My meter was stuck or blocked until I tapped the side of the unit a few times with a spanner. No need to dismantle :) Worked for me instantly.
Thanks my friend, Im a railroader that works a local switching job in northern Indiana. We still use a caboose that has an oil stove on it that keeps us warm when its cold out. But over the past few years it seems like the stove just doesn't heat up like it use to. All the people that use to work on it or have knowledge of how it works have retired. No one has really showed us younger guys anything so this video helps helps tremendously. I really appreciate it brother. I let you know if we get it working back to full heat again.
I have a Sparks Deluxe from around the 1940s It's been in storage for over 40 years it was used in my families house they built during the great depression. I'm thinking about throwing it back into the house and using it again.
Great video, I have an old fuel oil heater that heats my shop, I pulled it out of my grandparents old house. Still works as good today as it did when it was new!
Thanks so much great video Im running a Stanley Cleopatra drip stove from 1949 in Ireland uses the same feeder it runs perfect and I dont think its ever been serviced apart from the oil fire pan needing replacing 10 years ago...amazing old tech ...nice to see the inside of this main part detailed and very well explained sir
The farm house I grew up in had one of those - I think it was exactly like that one. It was gravity fed by a 500 gallon tank on legs that was about 50 feet from the heater. Thanks 🙂
Another massive thank you from me - had a similar control valve on an AGA that just started playing up after being off for a few months, and your video helped me understand how it should work and where to look. Turned out the flow valve had stuck down shut so wasn’t springing back up when turned on and letting fuel flow - little tap with the lid off and hey presto!
thank you .We are setting up an old oil furnace in my house. This was very informative and helped us make sure this was working properly. I appreciate your effort and knowledge.
We have an almost identical valve on an Aga with oil conversion. It was made in Denmark by BM Controls. Your video may help diagnose why the Aga isn't running hot enough. Thanks from UK
Great video. I love seeing this old stuff still going. Need to keep the classic stuff working man. My night was spent watching your great friggin content (since you asked), peace man.
Thanks for this! We've taken apart a Refleks with a control valve from Holland. Found a load of gunk in it, after the first time of opening it up it did fill up quite quickly from the inflow. But, there still wasn't any diesel in the outflow tube. Second time we took it apart I watched your video and we found that filter in the bottom was filled with gunk too (someone else had told us it was just an alternate place for inflow tube to go, ie left or right... lol). Still haven't got it flowing to the outflow, but we'll give it a rest and hopefully get it going tomorrow 🤞
Thanks for this video. I recognized the heater as the same model my grandparents had in their home when I was a kid (55 + years ago). Always wondered how it worked (dad was a mechanic so I guess it runs in the family). You helped doing something I wanted to do but lacked parts to work on. Keep up the good stuff.
I'm currently running one of these stoves to heat my garage. I've been through that carburetor / control a couple of times over the years. Thing works like a champ!
@@mohdhamza6155 I've never seen a new replacement carburetor like these for sale. Just keep looking on the usual auction sites for a working used one. That would be my advice.
Thanks for the video, very good explanation. I have an oil stove just like that, I think the carburetor is identical! I also have a spare carburetor. The stove is still available new from Refleks in Denmark, but the carburetor is slightly different. I think the secret to the long life of these carburetors is that they are immersed in diesel oil, this prevents corrosion.
I have 2 of these stoves and I found this video was very informative indeed, thanks ever so much for taking the time to educate us on the P’s Q’s of this particular device. 🍻
A control valve like that is currently over $1500 for a Napoleon OS-11 Savoy stove and one of the few parts still available. Thanks for the video. Off to figure out what's stopping the flow.
Thanks for the video. I just got an old Coleman oil stove for free. Not sure what is wrong with it yet but it needs a tank but I now have a start as to what to do with the control valve. Thanks again.
Thanks. I now understand more about how mine works...I'm not sure what's wrong with mine. It's probably just shot like me. lol. I see some oil on the side but no drips. Heater keeps going out and isn't whirling blue properly. I may could check that filter. Didn't know that was filter till I watched this.
Very nice video! My parents still use an oil fournace every day in their kitchen.. my grandfather bought the stove new in the fifties. It has run with no issues since the first installation. Only one time the filter was cleaned out but not much in it because there is a main filter at the tank. These control valves seem to last forever. Same type of carburator as yours only with a different name on it. Greetings from The Netherlands
Thanks, that is great to hear. I'm amazed to hear about how many of these old furnaces are still going out there. It says a lot for their simple reliability.
Awesome explanation, I moved onto a 5 acre property with a torn down barn and found an old heater from sears ! I pulled the oil control valve off and started tinkering. Most oil stove videos I see on youtube use a drip type system which I find dangerous if the drips start filling the pot burner faster then the fire can burn it, I have never seen anyone mention one of these old oil control valves, it's super neat. the way I understand this, if you were to leave the fuel to the stove open and unlit, the oil pot burner would reach a maximum level set by the oil control valve level and not allow an overflow event ? Definitely safer then the drip systems. I wonder how well this would work with waste oil if well filtered. I may have to try some experimenting in the shop.
I believe that is correct, it will fill until the level in the pot reaches the float level in the control unit. I've heard about people leaving the valve on and forgetting to light it, it didn't overflow but the furnace was thumping while it was burning off, lol. The furnace did overflow once when the safety float and needle valve were both compromised. But, that was from someone damaging the on/off switch.
Same here, mine is made by BM. I’m having trouble with oil flow, too slow. The slit in the metering needle is much narrower than in this one but that can’t be the problem as it was working fine
Awesome man! Was kinda expecting a shout out, because I'm one of the very few people on RUclips with videos about these old Coleman heaters. I have a Kenmore that survived the fire, our long used Coleman sadly went up with the fire. The Coleman had an addition to the fuel control, it had a bolt on thermostat. Basically a probably Mercury filled thing that would throttle down the fuel when it got warm. It would work good in an insulated home, but in the RV, it was always cold back where the fuel control was, so it was basically useless. But a cool extra feature.
No shit! Totally missed/forgot about that, I just went back and watched the vids. Probably wouldn't have made this vid if had known there was already a rundown of these valves, haha. I never really paid much attention to or appreciated these style heaters until I had to repair that one last year. After seeing how it worked inside realized how cool it was. That mercury thermostat was awesome, makes sense why the little poppet is there.
@@toocheaptosmoke Haha, nice. Yeah, your breakdown, and explanation of the whole system is so much better then what I did, so it's great you made your video! It will be more useful for people for sure. Really good video man :)
@@tommartyn Thanks man! You wouldn't happen to want the rest of that coleman I have would ya? (its missing the valve) Hate to scrap the thing. Was thinking about trying to rig up a small needle valve with a glass inline fuel filter where you could watch it drip to regulate flow.
Thanks for the video yes I live in Alaska off gird and have a Kuma oil stove trying to adjust the hi low burn I think your video helped me thumbs up thanks again 👍
I HAVE A BM30 OIL CONTROL VALVE ( DUNGS COMBUSTION CONTROLS ) ATTACHED TO MY STOVE. WORKS FINE AS LONG AS YOU DONT FLOOD IT WITH WATER . I HAVE A FUEL FILTER WITH A WATER DRAIN BETWEEN THE FUEL TANK AND THE CONTROL VALVE.
Thank you for the video family has a ranch off grid in Idaho and house out of the old sears & rowbox magazine we have the same carboraiter as you fixed it was alot of help to gather ares running right
That valve is brilliant. I hate that electronics have now taken over so many of these jobs that mechanical devices did in the past. The problem is, the average Joe back then had enough gusto and gumption to repair such things themselves and made it so they didn't need to buy new ones. Nowadays, the average young male thinks you change a flat tire with your phone and watch some dirty guy over 40 come do it for them.
Just picked one of these old heaters up for free. Tharrington 5060. Was wanting to make it burn waste oil. Ever tried burning waste oil in yours? Was wondering if some modifications may need to be made to the oil in through the needle assembly. Or possibly the oil flow out valve may need enlarged? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Great video!
I think you may have trouble getting the stove started when the firebox is cold. You may have to start and warmup with fuel oil, then switch to oil. The oil just wont have the volatility the fuel oil/diesel does. Run some good filters upstream of it!
Awesome was your control valve made in nijmegen NL got nestor martin stove . The stove company came few years back put a koby valve on stove stinks now very little heat .was thinking of putting old one back on .
I have a heater that uses one of these carburetors. 1947 Sears oil burner. Been burning used motor oil through it very well except for the needed cleaning every day or two from the build up and chimney pipe cleaning every couple weeks. Was told to preheat the oil and that would help the soot and chimney build up a a lot. I was thinking of doing a single or double loop of the copper tubing around the stove pipe but can't find any information if the carburetor will be ok with the oil heated to 120-160 deg. Was also trying to find a way to preheat the pipe that goes into the belly, but not having much luck. Not to many people have these types of heaters. We have had this one since 1985. Found the replacement parts at auto store in 1990 that had carburator floats and needle and seats. Other than that have never needed any else at all. Crazy thing keeps working. Any ideas? Thanks Bob
I would be cautious about heating the oil too much prior to entering the valve, if there are heat fluctuations in the oil the metering will change rapidly with the thinner/hotter oil. There's a chance it could "runaway" with the oil getting hotter and metering faster into the furnace. I know on one of the furnaces I worked on the line to the burner is routed through the box to preheat it a bit before burning.
@@toocheaptosmokeI have no problem setting the flow adjustments if needed. Just wasn't sure how hot the carburator can handle. Is there any information on heating it at the pipe that goes into the burner? - That might be an option.
@@toocheaptosmoke I did notice yesterday after we started it for the night, the small tube from the carburator to the inlet tube were both very hot. Could touch the one but not much, and the one that screws into the belly, to hot to touch. Would seem to be it's own preheat. Put a fan under the air intake and the flams were a little more blue, but there was still soot buildup this morning to clean out. Crazy motor oil. Diesel never did this. Might have to consider Transmission fluid if I can find a place that would not have a problem someone collecting it next winter being much thiner. Thanks for all.
Would see first if any filters are clogged, then see if the valve is full of oil or not. If its empty, main needle or shutoff lever may need attention. If it's full, metering valve/notch may be clogged.
Awesome video now I'm trying to find a new one since my filter/inspection valve is frozen (tried PB blaster too wont budge). Does this also have a wick? if so how do i determine the size needed for mine?
Thanks for the information on the fuel regulator. My parents house has one on an AGA. It used to be solid fuel. They concerted it to oil in 1975! Never a problem with it to this day!! I want to service the piece where the wick or oil try is...any information there? Thanks again, good video..
are there any chemical cleaners (sprays) that will help clean the air holes in the burner after a good vacuuming? what about the creasote sprays? this is such a messy job for this type of burner so i want to do my best to keep it burning normally without such future build up. thanks again! Happy New Year:)
I have a kerosene Heater and Stove Collectors group on facebook which has the AP booklet in the Albums section that goes step by step on how to maintain it. Thanks for the video. I personally did it like you there was very little information about oil pot burner heaters these were mainly used in. Any idea where the cover to the screen could be found? We have a member who had a broken one an can't get into the screen.
Cool, never knew there was an actual booklet around online for these. Have been amazed at how many others have been interested in keeping these going, glad to hear. If you're talking about the filter screen in the bottom, I would imaging that with some care and an independent filter directly upstream of the oils flow, you could probably eliminate or bypass it without an excessive risk of debris getting into the valve.
@@toocheaptosmoke No we have a member who needed the cover that you remove to get to the screen.. I noticed after I wrote that another member had two of them so the problem is solved on that point. But the instruction booklet is still worth while.
Do you know of a current manufacturer that makes a replacement? In my research ,I found Toby and Deville make a valve that I believe would work.But,both are out of the U.K.
Man, thank you for sharing this. It's far less intimidating once you get a common sense and practical description of the thing.
Thanks so much for this video. Our house came with an old SuperFlame oil heater in the garage. I had never seen one of these before. Took the same approach and just tore into it to get it figured out. Was worried enough about it that I drug it out into the middle of our driveway the first time I fired it up like I was about to light off fireworks. It has since been heating our garage for the last 3 winters with no issue other than I had to run it wide open as the flame would extinguish if I tried to turn it down so the garage would get unbearably hot. Your video has helped me understand how to get the upper and lower flow limits set properly and now the garage stays at a very comfortable temperature and my fuel lasts much longer. It really is a chore trying to find any info on these old heaters. Finding your video was like striking gold! 👍👍👍🍻
That's great to hear, really glad it's working better for ya.
Hey, I'm repairing my central heating in my old house. I have a very similar "controller" and needed an exploded view. Your video is very well done and gave me all I needed. The model I have (from a Buderus) is newer, but they actually kept the same functions just adding a few "electronic" on top of this. Many many thanks from Germany 😊👌
I was doing maintenance on my 20 year old Raeburn stove in readiness for Christmas cake and Christmas puddings to be made by my wife, but found that after I had cleaned up the burners and replaced the wicks the oil flow just wasn't there. Now I understand that bit more. Thank you.
did you get to fix your problem? I'm have the same issue with my aga. After watching this I'm going to open up the control box and see if there are any obvious reasons why the flow could be blocked.
@@richard6863 No. Whilst it was good to clean out the encrusted gunge from the inlet pipe to the burner, I now think that the problem stems from a kink in the pipe leading from the oil tank outside. Judging by the gunge, it looks like it might be good idea to replace the oil filter from the tank anyway.
It's always worth checking the pipe leg between the control valve and the burner pan, as this pipe can become blocked due to oil that solidifies (carbonised) within the pipe due to its proximity to the burner pan.
Modern low-sulphur kerosene heating oil is more prone to this than the old fuel.
Atmospheric stoves like Rayburns and AGAs are prone to this.
You can buy additives for your oil tank to reduce the chance of this. When our oil supplier knew that we had a Rayburn, he always poured some additive into our tank at the time of oil delivery.
Thanks man, really helpful. I found a manual for one of these and your description is far more precise/practical. My heater is a 2005 OLMAR model and it used one of these with some extra electronics on top.
Cool, glad to hear!
We have one of these on our fairly recently made Franco-Belge oil stove. Never a bit of trouble. We live in a rural area prone to power outages, and it's good to know that we'll still have heat when the power is off.
I also have a franco belge normandie. I'm in the usa! This stove was imported, sold then dissapeared . No parts are available at all!
Excellent video. Clear explanation of how this type of valve works. So good to hear the enthusiasm for a mechanical control system. I have this type of valve on a stove bought brand new in 2000. I have installation and user guides but they do not give this level of technical information. Thanks for posting this.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks!
Thanks so much from Wales. I have an oil fired Rayburn stove/water heater. I love it, it’s simple with no electronics, and needs no electricity to work. Just acquired a spare control valve from a junked stove, as a spare, in case the one on my stove needs work. I have the confidence now to check the insides out.
That's great, glad to hear!
Wales here too! The Major... is that Llantwit Major?
Great video, I just built an oil stove for the farm, I got an identical faucet, I cleaned it, I'm waiting to install it, greetings from Romania
Cool, glad to hear. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for posting this awesome video. I’m reviving an old siegler today and this video has been extremely helpful. I’m one of the 8 guys that needed info.
That's great to hear!
I have a couple of these heaters running in my shop and one in my cabin. One i picked up from the dump, my 3rd one I am in search for and oil control valve for. These are great heaters. I love old technology!
Where can I buy the inner and outer wicks for this model dk8722 please sam
Thank you so much for the video. Exactly what I needed, our new house was cold, the wife was mad that I didn’t know how to do start it. fumes,smoke.
Saw this video and it works great, warm and toasty!
That's great, glad to hear!
Thank you, i needed this, we have an old school kerosene heater that i got from my time in the Armed forces. This helped, my filter was dirty and the valve had dirt in it. Cleaned it up and now working.
Cool, glad to hear.
I run a few of these, they are the best thing for off the grid life, bullet proof units and yes you can still buy these! they are aimed towards arctic living and boats
I got the exact same one on a old heaterola that I restored about a year ago .After a good soaking in carb cleaner I used a stopwatch and a tiny measuring cup to set the high and low settings 5cc/min on low and 35cc/min on high. Took for ever but but works great. I wish this video was out then would've been a big help.lol
Thank you for the great video.
I have bought a small farm with a workshop. It have a double diesel burner to heat the workshop. On of the chamber was heating werry poorly. After seeing your video I was able to get it serviced and now both chamers gets a even flow of fuel and heats werry good. Thank you agen.
Thanks for the video. I heat my little shop with one these units. And it was super hard to find any actual info on it when I was trying to to research what it was
In the UK many country homes use an Aga oil fired stove. Nearly all of these Aga's use that sort of oil control valve so this is a useful; video. Thank you from England
You're welcome, glad to hear!!
Great video, My meter was stuck or blocked until I tapped the side of the unit a few times with a spanner. No need to dismantle :) Worked for me instantly.
Glad to hear, it's great when that fixes it, haha.
Thanks my friend, Im a railroader that works a local switching job in northern Indiana. We still use a caboose that has an oil stove on it that keeps us warm when its cold out. But over the past few years it seems like the stove just doesn't heat up like it use to. All the people that use to work on it or have knowledge of how it works have retired. No one has really showed us younger guys anything so this video helps helps tremendously. I really appreciate it brother. I let you know if we get it working back to full heat again.
That's awesome, hope you get it back in full service!
Lol, my grandad ran this in the old farm house. Its still going, all we've ever done is clean the screen, and flush it. Still going strong.
Nice!
I have a Sparks Deluxe from around the 1940s It's been in storage for over 40 years it was used in my families house they built during the great depression. I'm thinking about throwing it back into the house and using it again.
Use one of these on our stove, to this day. Didn’t know how it worked until now, thanks.
Cool, glad to hear.
Thank you for this video. I have a similar furnace but not sure how to run it.
Great video, I have an old fuel oil heater that heats my shop, I pulled it out of my grandparents old house. Still works as good today as it did when it was new!
I love hearing about these old stoves still working.
Thanks so much great video Im running a Stanley Cleopatra drip stove from 1949 in Ireland uses the same feeder it runs perfect and I dont think its ever been serviced apart from the oil fire pan needing replacing 10 years ago...amazing old tech ...nice to see the inside of this main part detailed and very well explained sir
Appreciate it, glad to help!
The farm house I grew up in had one of those - I think it was exactly like that one. It was gravity fed by a 500 gallon tank on legs that was about 50 feet from the heater. Thanks 🙂
No problem, glad to hear.
Another massive thank you from me - had a similar control valve on an AGA that just started playing up after being off for a few months, and your video helped me understand how it should work and where to look. Turned out the flow valve had stuck down shut so wasn’t springing back up when turned on and letting fuel flow - little tap with the lid off and hey presto!
thank you .We are setting up an old oil furnace in my house. This was very informative and helped us make sure this was working properly.
I appreciate your effort and knowledge.
Great to hear!
What a brilliant and well done video, I have learnt a lot from it.
You have an interesting voice as well which makes the video even better!
Love these old stoves they work great I have 1 in my garage workshop it keeps it really nice an warm.
very cool a toilet bowl for heating oil. love the old stuff. keep em coming
Thanks man!
We have an almost identical valve on an Aga with oil conversion. It was made in Denmark by BM Controls. Your video may help diagnose why the Aga isn't running hot enough. Thanks from UK
Cool, best of luck with it!
Watching your video because I'm trying to get the 1 in the shop going again
Very helpful just got a Findlay oil stove to heat the garage. 60 years and still going.
Cool, glad to hear.
Great video. I love seeing this old stuff still going. Need to keep the classic stuff working man. My night was spent watching your great friggin content (since you asked), peace man.
Haha, thanks man! I know this wasn't some action packed video, but glad to try and help keep old stuff like this going.
Thanks for this! We've taken apart a Refleks with a control valve from Holland. Found a load of gunk in it, after the first time of opening it up it did fill up quite quickly from the inflow. But, there still wasn't any diesel in the outflow tube. Second time we took it apart I watched your video and we found that filter in the bottom was filled with gunk too (someone else had told us it was just an alternate place for inflow tube to go, ie left or right... lol). Still haven't got it flowing to the outflow, but we'll give it a rest and hopefully get it going tomorrow 🤞
Cool, hope it works for ya.
Thanks for this video. I recognized the heater as the same model my grandparents had in their home when I was a kid (55 + years ago). Always wondered how it worked (dad was a mechanic so I guess it runs in the family). You helped doing something I wanted to do but lacked parts to work on.
Keep up the good stuff.
Thanks, glad to hear!
thanks for the play by play, I rebuilt mine using your video and it runs like a charm now
Awesome, glad to hear!
@@toocheaptosmoke which is the slow /low adjustment
I'm currently running one of these stoves to heat my garage. I've been through that carburetor / control a couple of times over the years. Thing works like a champ!
Sweet!
From where we could but these can any one let me know new carbutator
@@mohdhamza6155 I've never seen a new replacement carburetor like these for sale. Just keep looking on the usual auction sites for a working used one. That would be my advice.
I grew up with these, not just on kerosene room heaters but also on kerosene water heaters. They went on for ever!
My old 1920s Rayburn has one of these. I always wondered what was inside so thank you for this brilliant video. x
Cool, glad to hear!
thanks for the clear video ! found the same model here in france rénovating the old grand parents house ..
Thanks for the video, very good explanation. I have an oil stove just like that, I think the carburetor is identical! I also have a spare carburetor.
The stove is still available new from Refleks in Denmark, but the carburetor is slightly different.
I think the secret to the long life of these carburetors is that they are immersed in diesel oil, this prevents corrosion.
That is a good point. Cool to hear they are still made new over there, here the parts are becoming non existent. :(
I have 2 of these stoves and I found this video was very informative indeed, thanks ever so much for taking the time to educate us on the P’s Q’s of this particular device. 🍻
Cool, glad to hear!
Thanks from an Alaska Senior. use these alot.
glad to hear. 👍
A control valve like that is currently over $1500 for a Napoleon OS-11 Savoy stove and one of the few parts still available. Thanks for the video. Off to figure out what's stopping the flow.
Wow, that's a bit steep! Last I looked there wasn't even a new option available at the time.
Thanks for the video. I just got an old Coleman oil stove for free. Not sure what is wrong with it yet but it needs a tank but I now have a start as to what to do with the control valve.
Thanks again.
Glad to hear, good luck with it!
Excellent video. Thanks so much. Basic operation but saved a ton of fiddling.
glad to hear. 👍
thanks for the rundown, I got a R327 I want to go through, gonna need to clean that valve up also I'm sure
Thanks. I now understand more about how mine works...I'm not sure what's wrong with mine. It's probably just shot like me. lol. I see some oil on the side but no drips. Heater keeps going out and isn't whirling blue properly. I may could check that filter. Didn't know that was filter till I watched this.
Very nice video! My parents still use an oil fournace every day in their kitchen.. my grandfather bought the stove new in the fifties. It has run with no issues since the first installation. Only one time the filter was cleaned out but not much in it because there is a main filter at the tank.
These control valves seem to last forever. Same type of carburator as yours only with a different name on it.
Greetings from The Netherlands
Thanks, that is great to hear. I'm amazed to hear about how many of these old furnaces are still going out there. It says a lot for their simple reliability.
Thanks for the great analysis of that carburetor. Great help. I have 2 of them . I'm in Canada, great white north. Thx
Glad to help :)
Awesome explanation, I moved onto a 5 acre property with a torn down barn and found an old heater from sears ! I pulled the oil control valve off and started tinkering. Most oil stove videos I see on youtube use a drip type system which I find dangerous if the drips start filling the pot burner faster then the fire can burn it, I have never seen anyone mention one of these old oil control valves, it's super neat. the way I understand this, if you were to leave the fuel to the stove open and unlit, the oil pot burner would reach a maximum level set by the oil control valve level and not allow an overflow event ? Definitely safer then the drip systems. I wonder how well this would work with waste oil if well filtered. I may have to try some experimenting in the shop.
I believe that is correct, it will fill until the level in the pot reaches the float level in the control unit. I've heard about people leaving the valve on and forgetting to light it, it didn't overflow but the furnace was thumping while it was burning off, lol. The furnace did overflow once when the safety float and needle valve were both compromised. But, that was from someone damaging the on/off switch.
Later ones used a foam float i still use a rayburn that has almost the same oil valve
Same here, mine is made by BM. I’m having trouble with oil flow, too slow. The slit in the metering needle is much narrower than in this one but that can’t be the problem as it was working fine
Thanks trying to get my Jungers running this weekend>
Awesome man! Was kinda expecting a shout out, because I'm one of the very few people on RUclips with videos about these old Coleman heaters. I have a Kenmore that survived the fire, our long used Coleman sadly went up with the fire. The Coleman had an addition to the fuel control, it had a bolt on thermostat. Basically a probably Mercury filled thing that would throttle down the fuel when it got warm. It would work good in an insulated home, but in the RV, it was always cold back where the fuel control was, so it was basically useless. But a cool extra feature.
No shit! Totally missed/forgot about that, I just went back and watched the vids. Probably wouldn't have made this vid if had known there was already a rundown of these valves, haha. I never really paid much attention to or appreciated these style heaters until I had to repair that one last year. After seeing how it worked inside realized how cool it was. That mercury thermostat was awesome, makes sense why the little poppet is there.
@@toocheaptosmoke Haha, nice. Yeah, your breakdown, and explanation of the whole system is so much better then what I did, so it's great you made your video! It will be more useful for people for sure. Really good video man :)
@@tommartyn Thanks man! You wouldn't happen to want the rest of that coleman I have would ya? (its missing the valve) Hate to scrap the thing. Was thinking about trying to rig up a small needle valve with a glass inline fuel filter where you could watch it drip to regulate flow.
Thanks for the video yes I live in Alaska off gird and have a Kuma oil stove trying to adjust the hi low burn I think your video helped me thumbs up thanks again 👍
Cool, glad it helped!!
Thank you soooo much sir ! Old school is the best!
I HAVE A BM30 OIL CONTROL VALVE ( DUNGS COMBUSTION CONTROLS ) ATTACHED TO MY STOVE. WORKS FINE AS LONG AS YOU DONT FLOOD IT WITH WATER . I HAVE A FUEL FILTER WITH A WATER DRAIN BETWEEN THE FUEL TANK AND THE CONTROL VALVE.
thanks man. I bought an old ice fishing shack thats heated with one of these old units. Ive had a hard timefinding info about them.
No problem 👍
A very useful video. Thanks!
Thank you for the video family has a ranch off grid in Idaho and house out of the old sears & rowbox magazine we have the same carboraiter as you fixed it was alot of help to gather ares running right
Cool, glad to hear. 👍
I’ve got the modern refleks one and it’s nice to see the earlier version. Because there is a lot going on in mine :o)
I run the exact same one in my workshop but a different brand (maybe licensed) here in Belgium. great vid
That's cool to hear, never realized how common and widespread these were years back. Thanks for watching!
Thanks, I have one from 1956 in my boat and had no clue how to maintain/ check it befor I would try to light it.
Cool, hope it works for ya.
It so funny... I have almost exactly the same valve... just with USSR stamp on it thanks for explaining how this works!
ha...got one almost identical, sitting in storage for now but it was working fine
Great , I got the AGA going after looking at this , thank you
Awesome, glad to hear. 👍
Thanks that's great reminds me of my grampas old jungers when I was a kid .
This helpped alot I didn't know it was kinda not to crazy inside. Cleaned up but noticed the slit doesn't go wide open at all.
Could be because of the rated capacity of the furnace, some just might not be able to handle full throttle
So I cleaned it up. The oil level doesn't even go up
Maybe 1/4 that's it. The float isn't even all the way up.
I'll keep messing with it. I even cut the filter off.
Cool device possiblity of adaptation for off grid new design inspired by your effort
Haha, nice.
I am one of the eight ,thank you for this video,very very useful info.
Glad to hear!
That valve is brilliant. I hate that electronics have now taken over so many of these jobs that mechanical devices did in the past. The problem is, the average Joe back then had enough gusto and gumption to repair such things themselves and made it so they didn't need to buy new ones. Nowadays, the average young male thinks you change a flat tire with your phone and watch some dirty guy over 40 come do it for them.
I'm one of the eight people still using a heater with one of these oil control valves! 😅👍
Haha, that's good to hear!
Great video, I will take mine apart again now! lol. thanks!
I work at a fly in fishing camp. We have 12 of these stoves with control valves.
Cool to hear they're still going!
You can still got in Refeleks heater made in Demark, I got one of them.
To bring you up to , these units are still in use today dk 8722 is the model made in Denmark.
Just picked one of these old heaters up for free. Tharrington 5060. Was wanting to make it burn waste oil. Ever tried burning waste oil in yours? Was wondering if some modifications may need to be made to the oil in through the needle assembly. Or possibly the oil flow out valve may need enlarged? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Great video!
I think you may have trouble getting the stove started when the firebox is cold. You may have to start and warmup with fuel oil, then switch to oil. The oil just wont have the volatility the fuel oil/diesel does. Run some good filters upstream of it!
I have 2 of those
I actually bought a New Kenmore
That I still have
I used to burn 110 gallons a month
These are found on military tent heaters.
Awesome was your control valve made in nijmegen NL got nestor martin stove . The stove company came few years back put a koby valve on stove stinks now very little heat .was thinking of putting old one back on .
Thanks for this clearly explained video.
Sure thing!
I have a heater that uses one of these carburetors. 1947 Sears oil burner. Been burning used motor oil through it very well except for the needed cleaning every day or two from the build up and chimney pipe cleaning every couple weeks. Was told to preheat the oil and that would help the soot and chimney build up a a lot.
I was thinking of doing a single or double loop of the copper tubing around the stove pipe but can't find any information if the carburetor will be ok with the oil heated to 120-160 deg.
Was also trying to find a way to preheat the pipe that goes into the belly, but not having much luck. Not to many people have these types of heaters. We have had this one since 1985. Found the replacement parts at auto store in 1990 that had carburator floats and needle and seats. Other than that have never needed any else at all. Crazy thing keeps working.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Bob
I would be cautious about heating the oil too much prior to entering the valve, if there are heat fluctuations in the oil the metering will change rapidly with the thinner/hotter oil. There's a chance it could "runaway" with the oil getting hotter and metering faster into the furnace. I know on one of the furnaces I worked on the line to the burner is routed through the box to preheat it a bit before burning.
@@toocheaptosmokeI have no problem setting the flow adjustments if needed. Just wasn't sure how hot the carburator can handle. Is there any information on heating it at the pipe that goes into the burner? - That might be an option.
@@toocheaptosmoke I did notice yesterday after we started it for the night, the small tube from the carburator to the inlet tube were both very hot.
Could touch the one but not much, and the one that screws into the belly, to hot to touch. Would seem to be it's own preheat.
Put a fan under the air intake and the flams were a little more blue, but there was still soot buildup this morning to clean out. Crazy motor oil. Diesel never did this. Might have to consider Transmission fluid if I can find a place that would not have a problem someone collecting it next winter being much thiner.
Thanks for all.
@@toocheaptosmoke One answer I tried to show a link to a photo of the burner we have and youtube must have deleted it.
Sure thing. I think used motor oil is always going to smoke and soot up more, even does that when i run it in my diesel truck too.
Grat video I have a question can you convert it to burn waste oil through that carb
While it may be possible, I think you may have issues with the oil being so much thicker than the diesel/fuel oil.
Wow very cool and informative video
Awesome, I have the exact same one on a oil heater at my cottage!
Nice! Always glad to hear these old valves are still kicking.
Good video forsure I have one of these but the oil won't flow where would I go first.thanks again
Would see first if any filters are clogged, then see if the valve is full of oil or not. If its empty, main needle or shutoff lever may need attention. If it's full, metering valve/notch may be clogged.
Awesome video now I'm trying to find a new one since my filter/inspection valve is frozen (tried PB blaster too wont budge). Does this also have a wick? if so how do i determine the size needed for mine?
To cheap to smoke coming in clutch again while my twenty five year old ass tries to understand a fuel oil furnace 🤣🤣🤣🤣 damn cold in the yoop Der bud.
Thanks for the information on the fuel regulator. My parents house has one on an AGA. It used to be solid fuel. They concerted it to oil in 1975! Never a problem with it to this day!!
I want to service the piece where the wick or oil try is...any information there?
Thanks again, good video..
Not sure on that, the different manufacturers may have each had a slightly different setup.
I have jungers heater with the duel control oil valve just like this.
I picked up a unit. Oil not making its way into chamber
. Hope this helps me
are there any chemical cleaners (sprays) that will help clean the air holes in the burner after a good vacuuming? what about the creasote sprays? this is such a messy job for this type of burner so i want to do my best to keep it burning normally without such future build up. thanks again! Happy New Year:)
I think oven cleaner could be a good thing to try?
@@toocheaptosmoke sounds good. hadnt thought of that. i was thinking maybe engine degreaser or carb cleaner. i will experiment:)
Very good video. Thank you so much.
You are welcome!
I have a kerosene Heater and Stove Collectors group on facebook which has the AP booklet in the Albums section that goes step by step on how to maintain it. Thanks for the video. I personally did it like you there was very little information about oil pot burner heaters these were mainly used in. Any idea where the cover to the screen could be found? We have a member who had a broken one an can't get into the screen.
Cool, never knew there was an actual booklet around online for these. Have been amazed at how many others have been interested in keeping these going, glad to hear. If you're talking about the filter screen in the bottom, I would imaging that with some care and an independent filter directly upstream of the oils flow, you could probably eliminate or bypass it without an excessive risk of debris getting into the valve.
@@toocheaptosmoke No we have a member who needed the cover that you remove to get to the screen.. I noticed after I wrote that another member had two of them so the problem is solved on that point. But the instruction booklet is still worth while.
Do you know of a current manufacturer that makes a replacement? In my research ,I found Toby and Deville make a valve that I believe would work.But,both are out of the U.K.
Fantastic info !!! Thank You !!!
No problem, glad to help!
More reliable than electronic.