Update: Don't use the fertilizer from the video instead use a Starter Fertilizer like this amzn.to/3TjpV7k Grass Seed I Used (Tall Fescue) - thelawnlife.com/pages/blackout-grass-seed?srsltid=AfmBOoo8uYmlqokOYjE62T332UWsAHMNgdUvJq8XM_TZiFIjNLg0vsG7 Save 10% With Promo Code (At Checkout) - ehr10 Irrigreen System - irrigreen.sjv.io/everydayhomerepairs Get one free sprinkler head ($250+ Value) when you use the above link Peat Moss Roller - amzn.to/3ARAaJI Greenworks Detatcher - amzn.to/3MAbV5n DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I love this series... but if you're spraying roundup or any glyphosate, please don't do it in shorts and short sleeves. Long pants, long sleeves, waterproof preferred.
Just one tip... not necessarily needed here as you killed the entire lawn, but it is a best-practice thing to not spray killers in front of you and then walk through that spray or newly sprayed area. Either backward or out to the side as you walk away from it ensuring you are never stepping on killers. I have seen a lot of new landscapers leave dead footprints in lawns unintentionally... digging the channel a lot. Don't need a response.
10:48 The fertilizer you show has a combination of Pendimethalin, 2, 4-D, and Dicamba to kill existing weeds and prevent germination of new broadleaf and grassy weeds. It generally requires a 4 month wait before reseeding. I really hope you didn't mess up your renovation before it even got started.
I'm an experienced gardener although not a grass person but my neighbor is a Green Carpet guy. When he did his lawn he did rototill. That's a huge job but I wonder if some sort disturbance to break up compaction at least in the top couple of inches would help. Not sure how deep your planter went. He also went over it with a roller (half filled with water) to press the seed/starter fertilizer/peat into the soil before watering the first time. The peat still floated a bit so I wonder if a fine compost would work. Peat loves to repel water until it's already wet so I prefer sieved compost for my garden. I understand these comments are after the fact. I use 6oz/gallon of generic glyphosate all the time. I want to kill stuff, not scare it and anything I feel the need to spray is a persistent, hard to kill weed that won't respond to anything else (I'm looking at you, bindweed). But I also have a sprayer that gets a touch more and I add a broadleaf weed killer with a top growth killer. Easy to see in 24 hours if I've missed a spot. That sprayer is labeled 'Napalm'.
I bought an MZK dethatcher on Amazon and it worked great. Why does almost everyone on RUclips have to have a “Sun Joe”? Not sure this man used it, but I sense lemmings here. I’m sure this is a very minor observation but it’s the same as the push reel mowers. Everyone got to have an Earthwise or whatever. I bought an American Lawn Mower mower and it’s great. Man.
Perfect timing. I'm looking into starting my Fall/Winter lawn care and has ZERO clues where to start. For now I'm applying some Weed killer and detacher + core aeration.
Scott, could your share your journey to getting so thorough with all the technicality and terminology and their usage in either electrical or plumbing or carpentry. You mentioned that you are no means no professional but i see you're more skilled than a professional. Please share your experience in learning and application of that learning in a real life situation.
Great channel, plus we are both named Scott. I do all of my own stuff 99% of the time… but Curious about the cost, not including the sprinkler system: but to kill the lawn, buy or rent the equipment used and the seeding. I had a company here in Indiana do something similar and I couldn’t have done it myself for cheaper plus they did it all for me (except for the watering) in about 2-3 weeks to kill the lawn, (twice) core and plant. $1,200 which is a fraction the price of sodding. Otherwise I would have done it myself as my lawn was also a mixture of everything and awful. The total kill, and plant did the trick for me! Just recored and added more seed this year… 3 years later as the ground was getting too compacted. Thanks! PS, they didn’t bother thatching as everything was totally killed and came off when mowing/bagging. They also didn’t mention watering because they killed the lawn and came back two weeks later and saw what was still green and killed that… less effort. Then a week or two later they cored and seeded… also tall fescue
I purchase one of those power rakes from my home depots tool rental center then bought the spring tines assembly for it. My lawn is in very good shape and those blades are very aggressive.
I recommend that you do a watering amount test. Layout a bunch of tuna cans and measure how much water is being put on your lawn. Adjust your watering time so that about 1/2" is laid down and water twice a week.
If yer worried about water (which everyone should be) should've done clover, or some rock/mulch sections. Not some slow growing and thirsty fescue. What happens to the roundup after it kills your grass? Just washes into the drain? That can't be good for whatever is down stream. It's more time, but staking down a bunch of cardboard or tarps doesn't have the environmental impact. Plus it's cheaper. I'm considering fake grass after I found out just how terrible the dirt here is. Not worth fighting to keep grass growing, and already have rocks in the front.
I've never considered killing off all my lawn. We bought our house brand new 30 years ago. The lawn was poorly sodded and poorly watered before we arrived. Horrible looking start. I left what I had until the next spring and applied preemergent herbicide annually and spot sprayed weeds every year. About two years ago, I switched from a store brand weed killer to Tenacity, and the lawn is better than any neighbor's. I've also dethatched and aerated annually in the fall. I also apply insecticide in spring for grub worms. I never water because it is too expensive. My fescue grass has survived and thrived, reawakening after long droughts.
Bro!!! That’s not the right bag of Scott’s fertilizer for seeding. You want to use the blue bag Scott’s Built for Seeding with mesotrione included. What you used with weed and feed which includes Pendimethalin: 1.22% , 2, 4-D: 1.22% , Dicamba: 0.081%. 2,4-D and Dicamba generally require 3-4 weeks before seeding since they affect germination. Pendimethalin is a pre-emergent that lasts 3 months. Sorry to break it to you after all the work you’ve put in.
That fert with pre-emergent will heavily limit germination. You may not get proper germination or really bad spotting. Just want a high N/P starter fert, like 25-25-4. We've had good luck with skipping the seed splitters and putting down 1" of mushroom manure with the seed and starter fert. Keep moist like you said.
@@rojax_the_great Scotts "Triple Action for Seeding" is Mesotrione. The bag in the video is not that, it's Turf Builder Triple Action. This bag is Dicamba, Penimethalin and 2,4-D. I think it'll hinder germination
I didnt quite follow your Roundup application rate. I hear the ounces per gallon, but no the gallons per 1000sf (or ounces of active product per 1000sf). Also which Roundup product did you use (also answered by knowing the ounces of active chemicals per 1000sf).
Not trying to critique your video just offering information in case others want to do a complete renovation. Your better off spraying the grass before you mow. The longer grass blades have more contact area for the roundup, also when the lawn is normal length and less stressed it will take the roundup into the roots easier for a complete kill. Wait at least 7-10 days and reapply the roundup as needed. Once your satified the lawn is dead, mow/scalp the grass as low as you can go, and then dethatch/aerate/seed/starter fert/cover with peat moss and water, water, water..
Some Aussies do inversion tilling which buries the weeds seeds deep enough that they cannot germinate and they eventually lose potency. Soil amendments are then added, and new seed planted into that (or water and roll out sod rolls).
Extraart1 sings a common tune among a certain cohort in our society. Who could argue with such an entreaty, right? Wrong. I would wager that most people singing such a common song use “fracked oil” based products in their everyday lives. The plastics in their Prius and on and on. If we use these chemicals wisely and follow directions the risks are marginalized. Most all chemicals for lawn use warn of allowing runoff to get into drainage. Geesh.
You say Roundup, what is the active ingredient and percentage of the active ingredient? Roundup is just a brand name and has formulas that just kill weeds and also different formulas that kill everything. Even looking at just the nonselective can have different active ingredients. They used to use glyphosate but now they use a bunch of different stuff. Always wear long pants, long sleeves, shoes or boots that completely protect your feet, and chemical protective gloves. If it kills living things it isn’t good for you either. Even if it only kills plants. Always fully read the label. The label is the law. Good luck with germination since you put down a preemergent. Should have read the label on that bag of fertilizer.
Totally, or at least mostly, off topic - but going back to your Homeowners' Insurance question, I wonder what it might take to start a new Insurance company? I know they "play the odds" each year, so that they aren't paying out more than they take in, but I get also that there's a lot of corporate skimming from the intake too. What if that skimming was more controlled?
The only option at this point is to "break" the "barrier" the prodiamine applied. First, wet the soil well. That will release the prodiamine from the fertilizer prill. Let the top layer of the soil dry out and begin to disturb the top 1/2 to 1 inch of soil with a rake. You need to do the entire lawn, maybe do the raking twice with dry ground like I said. You need to do this now because after the seeds germinate and send out the tap root, they will soon die. Good luck. Anytime you apply a product to your lawn, you absolutely must read and UNDERSTAND the label on the package. THE LABEL IS THE LAW.
Maybe I'm naïve, but I don't see why you ever should need to kill your entire lawn in order to make it look nicer. Weeds will get find their way back to the lawn within months regardless unless you're regularly using poison.
Mow high help weeds die, mow low help them grow. No, it's easy to keep weeds out with thick healthy lawn even if all around you are weed seeds. Also a general kill-off works better when way more weeds than grass, and allows using same new grass everywhere.
If you notice at the start of the video, he has a bunch on lime green in his lawn. My guess he has some undesirable grasses he is trying to kill that off before starting fresh.
@@GrassGawd what doe it contain? Surely it ain't orange juice. Per our beloved and truth-telling Wikipedia, it does: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roundup_(herbicide)
Couple of things! 1. Your roundup potency: depends on the %of glyphosate… i assume you used like a 47% or so? 2. I think you’re should wait 2-3 days after mowing before spraying. 3. Definitely need to be careful recommending pre-emergents…. Can hinder seed germination rates!!! Only one I would recommend is tenacity, and that’s if it’s cool season and if you actually read the label! 4. Don’t need peat moss. Ive grown bermuda in the dead heat of summer from seed without it. It help, yes, but don’t NEED it! Fyi, I’m not a pro, just info from what jve experienced and seen first hand!
He said Roundup, he didn’t say Glyphosate. Roundup doesn’t even have Glyphosate in it anymore. Who knows what he used. Poor video with bad information.
I want to tell you I really enjoy your channel, but, why don't you do the Earth a favor and lose the Roundup and other chemicals, herbicides, pesticides, chemical fertilizers (made from fracked oil and gas) that end up in our lakes and rivers and cause algae blooms and other pollution? You could have a much more beautiful yard with flagstone or brick walkways that wind their way through drought resistant native plants and bushes, grasses, flowers, etc. etc. Decorative stone mulch or wood mulch and drip irrigation are maintenance free, and a yard like that is so interesting as opposed to grass.
Because you are living in a goofy fantasy. No one wants to surround their house with habitat for native pests like ticks, mosquitos, mice, voles, ants and dozens of others. We surround our houses with maintained turf grass because it is hostile to pests that are a danger to human health and degrade our shelter. Nature is not your friend, it is constantly trying to kill you thousands of different ways. Mulch beds are not maintenance free.
This is why all the hippies will live in their filth. Glyphosate doesn't go into the soil. It's absorbed into the plant tissue and attacks and kills the root. Anyway, roundup doesn't contain glyphosate, so your fake outrage is annoying.
No matter how much poison you spread or pre-emergent germination chemicals you spread next year, there is a considerable seed bank of weeds, your stripped soil very poor quality with nearly zero topsoil
@@380stroker Yeah, keep at it year after year after year and there should be attrition. But if you're going to be battling weeds fior four years, why not put free cardboard over that grassy area, put 3 inches of free leaf mulch on top, and wait three years, then till and plant the grass seed (if grass is what you want there)? No poison, and the soil will be richer.
Triple action turf builder waste of money since there is no turf to build. Weed killer useless now as you killed it all. If that's pre-emergent crabgrass usually that prevents all seeds from germinating. And not a starter fertilizer either. That's all that was needed. Can also offer to mow/bag neighbors weed free grass & use that as mulch cover - works great.
Update:
Don't use the fertilizer from the video instead use a Starter Fertilizer like this amzn.to/3TjpV7k
Grass Seed I Used (Tall Fescue) - thelawnlife.com/pages/blackout-grass-seed?srsltid=AfmBOoo8uYmlqokOYjE62T332UWsAHMNgdUvJq8XM_TZiFIjNLg0vsG7
Save 10% With Promo Code (At Checkout) - ehr10
Irrigreen System - irrigreen.sjv.io/everydayhomerepairs
Get one free sprinkler head ($250+ Value) when you use the above link
Peat Moss Roller - amzn.to/3ARAaJI
Greenworks Detatcher - amzn.to/3MAbV5n
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
We use core aeration with fescue. Lawn was aerated & seeded this week.
I love this series... but if you're spraying roundup or any glyphosate, please don't do it in shorts and short sleeves. Long pants, long sleeves, waterproof preferred.
Thanks for the feedback.
fixmyproperty AI fixes this. Full lawn renovation as DIY.
Just one tip... not necessarily needed here as you killed the entire lawn, but it is a best-practice thing to not spray killers in front of you and then walk through that spray or newly sprayed area. Either backward or out to the side as you walk away from it ensuring you are never stepping on killers. I have seen a lot of new landscapers leave dead footprints in lawns unintentionally... digging the channel a lot. Don't need a response.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
10:48 The fertilizer you show has a combination of Pendimethalin, 2, 4-D, and Dicamba to kill existing weeds and prevent germination of new broadleaf and grassy weeds. It generally requires a 4 month wait before reseeding. I really hope you didn't mess up your renovation before it even got started.
We will know soon 🤞
Oof. This is why you just use 41%
@@EverydayHomeRepairs any updates?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs update? We need to know for science and for people using your video as a guide
I'm an experienced gardener although not a grass person but my neighbor is a Green Carpet guy. When he did his lawn he did rototill. That's a huge job but I wonder if some sort disturbance to break up compaction at least in the top couple of inches would help. Not sure how deep your planter went. He also went over it with a roller (half filled with water) to press the seed/starter fertilizer/peat into the soil before watering the first time. The peat still floated a bit so I wonder if a fine compost would work. Peat loves to repel water until it's already wet so I prefer sieved compost for my garden. I understand these comments are after the fact.
I use 6oz/gallon of generic glyphosate all the time. I want to kill stuff, not scare it and anything I feel the need to spray is a persistent, hard to kill weed that won't respond to anything else (I'm looking at you, bindweed). But I also have a sprayer that gets a touch more and I add a broadleaf weed killer with a top growth killer. Easy to see in 24 hours if I've missed a spot. That sprayer is labeled 'Napalm'.
Another great video. Thanks for posting & always being positive.
You bet, thanks for the support.
I bought an MZK dethatcher on Amazon and it worked great. Why does almost everyone on RUclips have to have a “Sun Joe”? Not sure this man used it, but I sense lemmings here. I’m sure this is a very minor observation but it’s the same as the push reel mowers. Everyone got to have an Earthwise or whatever. I bought an American Lawn Mower mower and it’s great. Man.
Perfect timing. I'm looking into starting my Fall/Winter lawn care and has ZERO clues where to start. For now I'm applying some Weed killer and detacher + core aeration.
Scott, could your share your journey to getting so thorough with all the technicality and terminology and their usage in either electrical or plumbing or carpentry. You mentioned that you are no means no professional but i see you're more skilled than a professional. Please share your experience in learning and application of that learning in a real life situation.
great video. Can't wait to see the finished lawn
Great channel, plus we are both named Scott. I do all of my own stuff 99% of the time… but Curious about the cost, not including the sprinkler system: but to kill the lawn, buy or rent the equipment used and the seeding. I had a company here in Indiana do something similar and I couldn’t have done it myself for cheaper plus they did it all for me (except for the watering) in about 2-3 weeks to kill the lawn, (twice) core and plant. $1,200 which is a fraction the price of sodding. Otherwise I would have done it myself as my lawn was also a mixture of everything and awful. The total kill, and plant did the trick for me! Just recored and added more seed this year… 3 years later as the ground was getting too compacted. Thanks! PS, they didn’t bother thatching as everything was totally killed and came off when mowing/bagging. They also didn’t mention watering because they killed the lawn and came back two weeks later and saw what was still green and killed that… less effort. Then a week or two later they cored and seeded… also tall fescue
You used the wrong fertilizer, the pre-emergent is not safe for seeding.
Thanks for the feedback, we shall see if anything germinates.
Any grass update?? Wonder if the other herbicide active ingredients prevented germination
A tall fescue is a good grass as it has longer root structure.
Grasses with shallow roots require more water 👍
I use Glyphosate 54% (RoundUp is a brand name with Glyphosate as the base) at a rate of 2 ounces per gallon. Terrific ground-zero effectivity.
I purchase one of those power rakes from my home depots tool rental center then bought the spring tines assembly for it. My lawn is in very good shape and those blades are very aggressive.
“I purchased one of those power rakes from my home depot tool rental center”. You know you’re supposed to return those, right? 😂
@@danilo352 lol 😂 naw not for almost 600.00 I'm dam sure keeping it.
I recommend that you do a watering amount test. Layout a bunch of tuna cans and measure how much water is being put on your lawn. Adjust your watering time so that about 1/2" is laid down and water twice a week.
Thanks for the feedback!
100%, the irrigreen app allows you to set how much water to put down however it's proven to be inconsistent at various distances from the head.
Well done 👍
Is it putting fertilizer with weed killer on new seeds that's not very bright
Interesting as getting ready to do same on small portion of yard, hate the grass and need to do sprinkler upgrade.
If yer worried about water (which everyone should be) should've done clover, or some rock/mulch sections.
Not some slow growing and thirsty fescue.
What happens to the roundup after it kills your grass? Just washes into the drain? That can't be good for whatever is down stream. It's more time, but staking down a bunch of cardboard or tarps doesn't have the environmental impact. Plus it's cheaper.
I'm considering fake grass after I found out just how terrible the dirt here is. Not worth fighting to keep grass growing, and already have rocks in the front.
Isnt it better to use roundup and then cut the grass ?
Becouse it is herbicide used on leafs ?
I've never considered killing off all my lawn. We bought our house brand new 30 years ago. The lawn was poorly sodded and poorly watered before we arrived. Horrible looking start. I left what I had until the next spring and applied preemergent herbicide annually and spot sprayed weeds every year. About two years ago, I switched from a store brand weed killer to Tenacity, and the lawn is better than any neighbor's. I've also dethatched and aerated annually in the fall. I also apply insecticide in spring for grub worms. I never water because it is too expensive. My fescue grass has survived and thrived, reawakening after long droughts.
I've never seen using peetmoss to cover the seed but that is an awesome idea. Helps soil aeration too
Really helps keep the seed moist during germination.
I’m pretty sure that’s what they include in the bags/tubs of lawn patching seed.
I would have used a lawn roller to set the seed. Otherwise good content. Looking forward to seeing the results.
Thanks for the feedback!
Bro!!! That’s not the right bag of Scott’s fertilizer for seeding. You want to use the blue bag Scott’s Built for Seeding with mesotrione included. What you used with weed and feed which includes Pendimethalin: 1.22% , 2, 4-D: 1.22% , Dicamba: 0.081%. 2,4-D and Dicamba generally require 3-4 weeks before seeding since they affect germination. Pendimethalin is a pre-emergent that lasts 3 months. Sorry to break it to you after all the work you’ve put in.
Thanks for the feedback, we will know soon if we get any germination 🙂
if that grass seed germinates with that pre-emergent i will begin seeing pigs fly!!
🙂
That fert with pre-emergent will heavily limit germination. You may not get proper germination or really bad spotting. Just want a high N/P starter fert, like 25-25-4. We've had good luck with skipping the seed splitters and putting down 1" of mushroom manure with the seed and starter fert. Keep moist like you said.
its mesotrione, which is safe for seeding
@@rojax_the_great Scotts "Triple Action for Seeding" is Mesotrione. The bag in the video is not that, it's Turf Builder Triple Action. This bag is Dicamba, Penimethalin and 2,4-D. I think it'll hinder germination
@@Eric-em9qw oh you are right, I just assumed he used the seeding version. I did think it was more yellow than I remember
@@rojax_the_great Interested to see what will happen!
I don’t see the fertilizer application in the video. At what time does he use it? Did he reload to edit that section out?
I didnt quite follow your Roundup application rate. I hear the ounces per gallon, but no the gallons per 1000sf (or ounces of active product per 1000sf). Also which Roundup product did you use (also answered by knowing the ounces of active chemicals per 1000sf).
Since you used a slit seeder, you shouldn’t have any issues with the irrigation system washing anything away.
That is the hope 🤞
Not trying to critique your video just offering information in case others want to do a complete renovation. Your better off spraying the grass before you mow. The longer grass blades have more contact area for the roundup, also when the lawn is normal length and less stressed it will take the roundup into the roots easier for a complete kill. Wait at least 7-10 days and reapply the roundup as needed. Once your satified the lawn is dead, mow/scalp the grass as low as you can go, and then dethatch/aerate/seed/starter fert/cover with peat moss and water, water, water..
Thanks for the feedback!
Pretty much killed my lawn earlier by dethatching so it is on to some aeration, fertilizing, seeding and application of peat.
Flame weeding will give quicker results.
why not pre-germinate the seed? Just wondering, never done it myself but saw it in other videos.
Some Aussies do inversion tilling which buries the weeds seeds deep enough that they cannot germinate and they eventually lose potency. Soil amendments are then added, and new seed planted into that (or water and roll out sod rolls).
Use long sleeve shirts and pants next time when handling glyphosate. Otherwise nice video
And by spring the weeds will be right back.
Extraart1 sings a common tune among a certain cohort in our society. Who could argue with such an entreaty, right? Wrong. I would wager that most people singing such a common song use “fracked oil” based products in their everyday lives. The plastics in their Prius and on and on. If we use these chemicals wisely and follow directions the risks are marginalized. Most all chemicals for lawn use warn of allowing runoff to get into drainage. Geesh.
Interesting video thanks! Some of these comments are downright stupid
You say Roundup, what is the active ingredient and percentage of the active ingredient? Roundup is just a brand name and has formulas that just kill weeds and also different formulas that kill everything. Even looking at just the nonselective can have different active ingredients. They used to use glyphosate but now they use a bunch of different stuff.
Always wear long pants, long sleeves, shoes or boots that completely protect your feet, and chemical protective gloves. If it kills living things it isn’t good for you either. Even if it only kills plants.
Always fully read the label. The label is the law.
Good luck with germination since you put down a preemergent. Should have read the label on that bag of fertilizer.
Great job on the Reno. Now you have to work on the landscaping. Remove those green outdated bushes.
Totally, or at least mostly, off topic - but going back to your Homeowners' Insurance question, I wonder what it might take to start a new Insurance company? I know they "play the odds" each year, so that they aren't paying out more than they take in, but I get also that there's a lot of corporate skimming from the intake too. What if that skimming was more controlled?
It's near impossible to start a new, successful insurance company today.
The only option at this point is to "break" the "barrier" the prodiamine applied. First, wet the soil well. That will release the prodiamine from the fertilizer prill. Let the top layer of the soil dry out and begin to disturb the top 1/2 to 1 inch of soil with a rake. You need to do the entire lawn, maybe do the raking twice with dry ground like I said. You need to do this now because after the seeds germinate and send out the tap root, they will soon die. Good luck. Anytime you apply a product to your lawn, you absolutely must read and UNDERSTAND the label on the package. THE LABEL IS THE LAW.
Really appreciate the feedback! 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs After you break the barrier, you can reapply seed at the full label rate. All you need will be viable seed. Good luck.
Maybe I'm naïve, but I don't see why you ever should need to kill your entire lawn in order to make it look nicer. Weeds will get find their way back to the lawn within months regardless unless you're regularly using poison.
Mow high help weeds die, mow low help them grow. No, it's easy to keep weeds out with thick healthy lawn even if all around you are weed seeds. Also a general kill-off works better when way more weeds than grass, and allows using same new grass everywhere.
Perhaps he wants to switch to a better cultivar or grass type
If you notice at the start of the video, he has a bunch on lime green in his lawn. My guess he has some undesirable grasses he is trying to kill that off before starting fresh.
Would it have been quicker to just till the entire yard?
Great job, but... what was your glyphosate blood level? Ouch!.... :-(
Roundup doesn't contain glyphosate anymore.
@@GrassGawd what doe it contain? Surely it ain't orange juice. Per our beloved and truth-telling Wikipedia, it does: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roundup_(herbicide)
@mp6814 You use Wikipedia as source. No wonder you type idiotic things.
@@380stroker My intelligent, highly educated and respectful friend - do you have anything constructive to say?
@@mp6814 yes, you shouldn't use Wikipedia as a source, otherwise you deserve the pie in the sky. You know how anyone can manipulate that info.
Would you consider a video building artificial turf lawn? And cost breakdown. Thanks
I'll save you some time and money. It's very expensive and no one should do it.
I stopped where you applied pre-emergent. It will prevent your seed from growing a tap root, killing the grass plant. You will have no lawn.
Rip I hope he sees you comment
Couple of things!
1. Your roundup potency: depends on the %of glyphosate… i assume you used like a 47% or so?
2. I think you’re should wait 2-3 days after mowing before spraying.
3. Definitely need to be careful recommending pre-emergents…. Can hinder seed germination rates!!! Only one I would recommend is tenacity, and that’s if it’s cool season and if you actually read the label!
4. Don’t need peat moss. Ive grown bermuda in the dead heat of summer from seed without it. It help, yes, but don’t NEED it!
Fyi, I’m not a pro, just info from what jve experienced and seen first hand!
Thanks for the feedback!
He said Roundup, he didn’t say Glyphosate. Roundup doesn’t even have Glyphosate in it anymore. Who knows what he used. Poor video with bad information.
@@travismorgan9273 roundup tradiotnally had glyphosate. It was an excellent video because it had a lot of information.
Roundup infuses into the sprayers plastic don't use it on anything else
Do you use Weed killer?
Mostly focused on spot spraying dandelions but Crabgrass went crazy this year in our area.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs what state do you live in?
I want to tell you I really enjoy your channel, but, why don't you do the Earth a favor and lose the Roundup and other chemicals, herbicides, pesticides, chemical fertilizers (made from fracked oil and gas) that end up in our lakes and rivers and cause algae blooms and other pollution? You could have a much more beautiful yard with flagstone or brick walkways that wind their way through drought resistant native plants and bushes, grasses, flowers, etc. etc. Decorative stone mulch or wood mulch and drip irrigation are maintenance free, and a yard like that is so interesting as opposed to grass.
Couldn’t agree more. All hail clover! lol.
Roundup should be illegal
Because you are living in a goofy fantasy. No one wants to surround their house with habitat for native pests like ticks, mosquitos, mice, voles, ants and dozens of others. We surround our houses with maintained turf grass because it is hostile to pests that are a danger to human health and degrade our shelter. Nature is not your friend, it is constantly trying to kill you thousands of different ways. Mulch beds are not maintenance free.
@@henryslatt9041 Roundup no longer contains glyphosate
@@GrassGawdwhich sucks
This is ridiculous, wasteful, wrong 😢
What would you have done?
Why?
This is why all the hippies will live in their filth. Glyphosate doesn't go into the soil. It's absorbed into the plant tissue and attacks and kills the root. Anyway, roundup doesn't contain glyphosate, so your fake outrage is annoying.
Wait, you have a cyber truck? 🤮🤮🤮🤮
He lost a lot of credibility when he bought the Cyber truck
I stopped watching when you said Roundup.
Roundup doesn't contain glyphosate anymore.
@@GrassGawd lefties don't care
@@GrassGawdRegardless, there are a few ways to remove grass without using any chemicals.
Same here
No matter how much poison you spread or pre-emergent germination chemicals you spread next year, there is a considerable seed bank of weeds, your stripped soil very poor quality with nearly zero topsoil
Non-issue if pre emergent is applied at appropriate times.
@@380stroker Yeah, keep at it year after year after year and there should be attrition. But if you're going to be battling weeds fior four years, why not put free cardboard over that grassy area, put 3 inches of free leaf mulch on top, and wait three years, then till and plant the grass seed (if grass is what you want there)? No poison, and the soil will be richer.
Triple action turf builder waste of money since there is no turf to build.
Weed killer useless now as you killed it all.
If that's pre-emergent crabgrass usually that prevents all seeds from germinating.
And not a starter fertilizer either. That's all that was needed.
Can also offer to mow/bag neighbors weed free grass & use that as mulch cover - works great.