I did this mod 6 months ago, and regret it for these reasons 1) cab is now filled with diesel fumes every time I turn the heat on 2) it throws a check engine code, you need the suction from the turbo, and some argue without it, you get increased crankcase pressures which can potentially cause premature seal failures (so that argues for gutting your OEM crankcase filter to increase airflow). 3) engine bay is covered in oil residue. I've thrown away the little filter bob and run a heater hose down to the bottom of the truck for now, but I think I'll just order the OEM tube/pipe setup and go back to stock again. Just keep your OEM filter clean with regular changes and you have nothing to worry about here.
you are 100% correct!! i used to do this on all cars but venting to atmos is horrible all around. install a catch can in that line or an air oil separator to keep the turbo happy.
Just maintain regular change intervals for the oem CCV filter and you'll have very clean charge air pipes and no smelly oil under the hood. I have 365k miles on my 6.7 and the intercooler is very clean and the rest of the air system. You only need that filter delete if you're running really high boost with compound turbos.
From 2010 and up the ram trucks have a crank case pressure sensor that will trip when you get on the throttle heavy if you just disconnect ccv tube from turbo intake you need to delete the crank case filter as well so it can breath more freely it’s in valve cover
Would it be better to leave it connected and install oil catch can? That way the intake draw on crankcase will reduce potential positive pressure and condensation buildup whenengine doesn't reach operatingtemperature? Nice simple kit tho. 👍
Before full delete on my 5.0 cummins, I had a Provnet 200 catch can on, and it would catch all kinds of oil and water. After full delete, I installed an atmosheric catch can and only left it on a week, because I couldn't stand the smell coming out of it. I put the Provent 200 back on. I don't get squat anymore, assuming because the egr is gone. I am curious if these smell as bad as my 5.0.
When I’ve seen people do the whole CCV delete, It requires a long hose through the engine bay. Could you do a long hose in this situation instead of a filter?
Ok so I did this and my cab was filled with the fumes, I tried making the hose longer with the filter on end and ran it down by the driver fender well and it still fumed the cab while sitting still. that smell is awefull. I got a really long hose and ran it all the way back to the flat bed. What am I going to screw up with this change? No engine lights have come on but that smell has to go. I'll just consider putting it back like it was. I dont even know what difference it should make with this delete. Looking at all the other comments about gutting the actual filter and why put a filter on a filter and pressure busting seals I need a lil more know how about this procedure.
The right way is with a valve cover swap but I'd at least get one of those vented/filtered oil caps instead of solution. On their own, that little hose and filter aren't big enough to evacuate all of the pressure in crank case. You need vacuum (from the turbo) _or_ a larger opening otherwise the case will over pressure and cause a seal to fail.
Does that mean that the 6.7 have a lot more blow by? The 5.9s always used a 3/4 hose also, in to a puke bottle. A lot of people rerouted it to dump behind the engine, but still 3/4".
@@GRid-yk2ru It more has to do with the valve cover design. The 5.9 cover has more area for the case vapors to escape. That's why the "right" way to do this mod is to swap the valve cover. If you look at the 6.7 cover, not only does it have a filter, but the opening is much smaller. Really it's designed so that the turbo pulls the vapor through the filter and out of the case ('07.5+ EPA requirements). Although the Cummins is a positive crank case engine, it still needs ample room for the vapors to escape. So if you're going to remove the source of vacuum, you need to make the escape path larger so the crank case pressure can be relieved. And the only way to do that is with a valve cover swap or by using the aforementioned oil caps.
Thanks, just learned something new. I guess the 5.9s vented easier also because they were thru the timing chain cover. What is different about the valve cover swap? Is it just gutted or does it have extra vent ports aswell?
@@GRid-yk2ru The CR 5.9 cover has a baffle with an outlet that vents to the atmosphere. Unfortunately the 5.9 valve cover isn't a direct swap to the 6.7. But there's several options available in the aftermarket that are billet and have plenty of provisions to properly relieve pressure. This is especially important if you have a bigger turbo, like a S467, and run the engine at higher RPM.
you still have to change the internal filter though. if it clogs your crank cant vent. engines also perform better with a vacuum pull on the pistons from below. doing this removes that option. you also can now spray that nasty oil residue all over your engine bay. for race cars this is illegal also along with the EPA. why spray oil all over the track when the engine blows and ruin someone elses day? best option is cutting that hose and installing a catch can or air oil separator and draining it every couple thousands miles.
Ccv delete is a bad idea. Better to just keep the filter changed. The engine is designed around having those crankcase gasses sucked through the intake in order to relieve pressure from the front and rear main seals. Better to route a catch can before the intake to collect the excess oil vapor. The reason 24v don't leak as bad as 12v cummins is partly because of the ccv system .
The EPA is the reason the CC gases are sucked into the intake leading to the turbo, not because of the engine design. If there was any benefit to it race teams and engine builders would be routing it into the intake.
@@dc-pr6xt It's not that there's a benefit to venting the crank case vapor into the turbo. It's that without the turbo pulling vapor, the outlet of the 6.7 valve cover isn't big enough to properly vent ccvs which can then cause a seal to fail. If you look at any race truck, you'll find multiple 10 or 12 an lines venting the crank case. Take a look at the hole in a 6.7 cover and the inadequacies will be obvious. Really it's better to leave it alone, if you have the stock turbo _or_ put on an aftermarket valve cover with appropriate ventilation for those with a 2nd gen swap, etc, etc.
@@dc-pr6xt I mean I don't entirely believe that because I've seen some tier 3 and even modern engines that vent crank gasses to atmosphere and some old engines that run a pcv system to the turbo inlet. And I've never really seen it kill a turbo before
why not just disconnect the tube running into the top filter housing and plug it there, then put on your filter? i'm confused why it was necessary to remove the intake tube?
If you dont do the delete do not wait 65000 miles before checking how heavy your filter has gotten. Pull it out at 35000 miles and compare to a new filter. Fleet guard filter is same as mopar.
Horrible idea. The line running from the crankcase to the intake creates a negative pressure, like a vacuum, that aids the positive pressure being created in the crankcase. In my opinion, keep the OEM setup and change the filter every 40k if not tuned, and 20k if tuned. Other options is to keep OEM setup, gut the CCV filter, but run a quality high flow catch between the crankcase and intake. That negative pressure ensures your seals last...
Dark Iron Diesel, what do you think about running a catch can and running the hose back to the turbo after the catch can? So basically trying to capture that oily crap before it gets sucked into intake? Or should I just go with your recommended setup here?
I’ve been wondering about this. Because on the forums people are saying to take the insides out of the crankcase filter before adding this. But this makes sense to do it this way.
Personally I like having the CCV filter in there to catch the oil, if you get rid of it then that little oil filter gets dirty very quickly but that’s just my opinion.
@@darkirondiesel that’s what I was worried about when reading the forums. I’m just going to do the way you did in the video and that keeps the filter to where I can service it normally.
@@carls2210 do yourself a favor and install a catch can, they are cheap and they allow you to gut the filter so you won't build pressure. rear blown seal $$$$ vs catch can $ just saying ...
Question 🙋♂️. I have a stock 2014 ram 2500 tradesman. If I do this small upgrade to save my turbo in the long run will any messages come on my dashboard?.
Personally I do and I replace them when the “perform service” light comes on but you could gut it out if you wanted to. It will just make that little filter oily faster.
@@darkirondiesel I mean, instead of pulling the intake tube then cutting the hose I'll leave it be. Take the hose off from the CCV and plug it there. Then add the filter to the case. Less work same result.
Really, what code did you get? Because you should not get any code doing this, and even on dirty diesel customs website it says “requires no tuning” did you unplug that little sensor where the hose comes out of the valve cover? Because that has to stay plugged in.
Yep thats the same thing happened to me. When I install the filter the engine light came on. My truck is a 2014. So I put the hose back on to the turbo intake. Forgot what the code said too...thx for the video.
@@darkirondiesel i left the sensor in , cant remember the code …. But i did do it before the truck was deleted . Might try it again since i still have the kit sitting in the garage .
Hi I just ordered a 6.7L 2022 Ram. I plan on getting it deleted right away for better mileage and longevity. Do you recommend a aftermarket filtration system? I live in Alberta BTW. Awesome content thank you very much.
Well I’m not sure because there is no emission testing where I live, but I’d assume they put the stock parts back on for the test then remove them again afterwards
@@bigsteve8037 You have to know a guy that does inspection, they have ways for you to pass emissions. They can pass it from a dummy car etc. a lot of places do, you'll have to pay extra of course.
You forgot to cut open and remove the filter material in the stock filter. It's the only way this mod works properly. It will just gum up the stock filter material and not vent properly. Oh, check under your hood here in about 20000 miles or so and tell me if you have oil all over everything. Catch can is the only way to go. If done right not only will it vent into the atmosphere it will vent garbage all over the engine bay.
These trucks have VGT turbo chargers, the vent line tapped into your intake is pulling crank case gases into your turbo (epic EPA fail). The guide vains on your turbo that actuate your variable geometry turbo will eventually gum up to the point of failure. Turbo’s are expensive.. that’s incentive enough for most.
This man is doing the lord's work.
lol lol lol! that was classic what you just said!
This channel has been such a blessing. Got me through my first headgasket job and now this CCV delete!
Glad I could help!
I did this mod 6 months ago, and regret it for these reasons 1) cab is now filled with diesel fumes every time I turn the heat on 2) it throws a check engine code, you need the suction from the turbo, and some argue without it, you get increased crankcase pressures which can potentially cause premature seal failures (so that argues for gutting your OEM crankcase filter to increase airflow). 3) engine bay is covered in oil residue. I've thrown away the little filter bob and run a heater hose down to the bottom of the truck for now, but I think I'll just order the OEM tube/pipe setup and go back to stock again. Just keep your OEM filter clean with regular changes and you have nothing to worry about here.
you are 100% correct!! i used to do this on all cars but venting to atmos is horrible all around. install a catch can in that line or an air oil separator to keep the turbo happy.
ruclips.net/video/j_2XiuwyVS8/видео.htmlsi=TFaYlxuxLhmt-5-6
Love the install videos man! Get right to the point, detailed and informative thanks!
Just maintain regular change intervals for the oem CCV filter and you'll have very clean charge air pipes and no smelly oil under the hood. I have 365k miles on my 6.7 and the intercooler is very clean and the rest of the air system.
You only need that filter delete if you're running really high boost with compound turbos.
That was my next question. Thanks for the info. Wasn't sure if you still had to replace the filter as normal.
Would it hurt to do it anyways??
@@ezequielramon8810 like he said, it'll paint your whole engine with oil
From 2010 and up the ram trucks have a crank case pressure sensor that will trip when you get on the throttle heavy if you just disconnect ccv tube from turbo intake you need to delete the crank case filter as well so it can breath more freely it’s in valve cover
BC Diesel part # P-OBK-6.7C Just picked one up today! Great Video!
Would it be better to leave it connected and install oil catch can? That way the intake draw on crankcase will reduce potential positive pressure and condensation buildup whenengine doesn't reach operatingtemperature? Nice simple kit tho. 👍
You should remove the filter media under the valve cover. It is to restrictive without getting the vacuum from the turbo.
so just let more oil out now to get all over the engine bay? sounds lovely.
Didn’t get all over my engine bay! Just gotta run it out the back of the truck.
@@scottdavis913 that’s fine but the motor pulls more power and is efficient with a vacuum on the pistons
Before full delete on my 5.0 cummins, I had a Provnet 200 catch can on, and it would catch all kinds of oil and water. After full delete, I installed an atmosheric catch can and only left it on a week, because I couldn't stand the smell coming out of it. I put the Provent 200 back on. I don't get squat anymore, assuming because the egr is gone. I am curious if these smell as bad as my 5.0.
Couple extra things to add to this is put a new ccv filter in and clean out the turbo
Can you get rid of the pressure sensor when installing a aftermarket valve cover? Thanks
Nothing like putting a filter on a filter... To much crank pressure might be bad on seals...They sell valve covers that delete it all and vent freely.
Exactly right without deleting the crank case filter your gonna have high crank case pressure.
When I’ve seen people do the whole CCV delete, It requires a long hose through the engine bay. Could you do a long hose in this situation instead of a filter?
Ok so I did this and my cab was filled with the fumes, I tried making the hose longer with the filter on end and ran it down by the driver fender well and it still fumed the cab while sitting still. that smell is awefull. I got a really long hose and ran it all the way back to the flat bed. What am I going to screw up with this change? No engine lights have come on but that smell has to go. I'll just consider putting it back like it was. I dont even know what difference it should make with this delete. Looking at all the other comments about gutting the actual filter and why put a filter on a filter and pressure busting seals I need a lil more know how about this procedure.
The right way is with a valve cover swap but I'd at least get one of those vented/filtered oil caps instead of solution. On their own, that little hose and filter aren't big enough to evacuate all of the pressure in crank case. You need vacuum (from the turbo) _or_ a larger opening otherwise the case will over pressure and cause a seal to fail.
Does that mean that the 6.7 have a lot more blow by? The 5.9s always used a 3/4 hose also, in to a puke bottle. A lot of people rerouted it to dump behind the engine, but still 3/4".
@@GRid-yk2ru It more has to do with the valve cover design. The 5.9 cover has more area for the case vapors to escape. That's why the "right" way to do this mod is to swap the valve cover. If you look at the 6.7 cover, not only does it have a filter, but the opening is much smaller. Really it's designed so that the turbo pulls the vapor through the filter and out of the case ('07.5+ EPA requirements). Although the Cummins is a positive crank case engine, it still needs ample room for the vapors to escape.
So if you're going to remove the source of vacuum, you need to make the escape path larger so the crank case pressure can be relieved. And the only way to do that is with a valve cover swap or by using the aforementioned oil caps.
Thanks, just learned something new.
I guess the 5.9s vented easier also because they were thru the timing chain cover.
What is different about the valve cover swap? Is it just gutted or does it have extra vent ports aswell?
@@GRid-yk2ru The CR 5.9 cover has a baffle with an outlet that vents to the atmosphere. Unfortunately the 5.9 valve cover isn't a direct swap to the 6.7. But there's several options available in the aftermarket that are billet and have plenty of provisions to properly relieve pressure. This is especially important if you have a bigger turbo, like a S467, and run the engine at higher RPM.
@@monsterram6617so with a aftermarket cover they have two lines but where do you route those two lines?
you still have to change the internal filter though. if it clogs your crank cant vent. engines also perform better with a vacuum pull on the pistons from below. doing this removes that option. you also can now spray that nasty oil residue all over your engine bay. for race cars this is illegal also along with the EPA. why spray oil all over the track when the engine blows and ruin someone elses day? best option is cutting that hose and installing a catch can or air oil separator and draining it every couple thousands miles.
Ccv delete is a bad idea. Better to just keep the filter changed. The engine is designed around having those crankcase gasses sucked through the intake in order to relieve pressure from the front and rear main seals. Better to route a catch can before the intake to collect the excess oil vapor. The reason 24v don't leak as bad as 12v cummins is partly because of the ccv system .
The EPA is the reason the CC gases are sucked into the intake leading to the turbo, not because of the engine design. If there was any benefit to it race teams and engine builders would be routing it into the intake.
@@dc-pr6xt It's not that there's a benefit to venting the crank case vapor into the turbo. It's that without the turbo pulling vapor, the outlet of the 6.7 valve cover isn't big enough to properly vent ccvs which can then cause a seal to fail. If you look at any race truck, you'll find multiple 10 or 12 an lines venting the crank case. Take a look at the hole in a 6.7 cover and the inadequacies will be obvious.
Really it's better to leave it alone, if you have the stock turbo _or_ put on an aftermarket valve cover with appropriate ventilation for those with a 2nd gen swap, etc, etc.
@@dc-pr6xt I mean I don't entirely believe that because I've seen some tier 3 and even modern engines that vent crank gasses to atmosphere and some old engines that run a pcv system to the turbo inlet.
And I've never really seen it kill a turbo before
@@monsterram6617Do you think an oil catch can with still connected would be a good compromise?
why not just disconnect the tube running into the top filter housing and plug it there, then put on your filter? i'm confused why it was necessary to remove the intake tube?
Can you do a overview over this truck! Love the custom work
When I check the website it tells me that I need to complete a "Tune" or a "Running" when this is fitted. No mention of that here???
If you dont do the delete do not wait 65000 miles before checking how heavy your filter has gotten. Pull it out at 35000 miles and compare to a new filter.
Fleet guard filter is same as mopar.
Does This make the cab smell like oil inside when using the HVAC?
?
I've been hearing it can throw a engine light, because the sensor won't read the pressure right?
Horrible idea. The line running from the crankcase to the intake creates a negative pressure, like a vacuum, that aids the positive pressure being created in the crankcase. In my opinion, keep the OEM setup and change the filter every 40k if not tuned, and 20k if tuned. Other options is to keep OEM setup, gut the CCV filter, but run a quality high flow catch between the crankcase and intake. That negative pressure ensures your seals last...
i have off topic question how do you put a tune on a 2021 dodge ram 3500 that has a push start button ? my 05 ram 2500 had a key. just wondering
Where is your shop in Saskatchewan, I'm also from Saskatchewan and have a Ram cummins
Dark Iron Diesel, what do you think about running a catch can and running the hose back to the turbo after the catch can? So basically trying to capture that oily crap before it gets sucked into intake? Or should I just go with your recommended setup here?
I gutted my ccv filter (correct way to do it) then you'll want to run the vent to a catch can and then vent the catch can to atmosphere.
Damn Kyle, love your videos.... keep up the amazing work
Thanks buddy
Just checked my 2021 13k miles 2500. the hose is pretty dry and clean....... Should delete next 2 years
Don’t you need to gut the filter now?
I love your content bro keep it up. Should every diesel have a ccv delete? Is it better in terms of performance or does it make it louder?
Umm no
Do you need to remove the cover filter from inside the valve cover?
Can I do this even though I still have the EGR? My truck is still stock. Thanks for all the cool vids and keep them coming 👍🏼
I don’t see why you couldn’t but maybe get a 2nd opinion if you’d like
can you include in a video you using the exhaust brake in a new cummins ram
Do you leave the old filter in OR take it out of there ?
Seems like you could plug the OEM CCV line to the air inlet up higher and avoid removing it?
That’s what I was thinking
Mate, you are a legend! Seriously too nice. Love your site on the coal burners.
How do I get rid of the check engine light after ccv mod
I’ve been wondering about this. Because on the forums people are saying to take the insides out of the crankcase filter before adding this. But this makes sense to do it this way.
Personally I like having the CCV filter in there to catch the oil, if you get rid of it then that little oil filter gets dirty very quickly but that’s just my opinion.
@@darkirondiesel that’s what I was worried about when reading the forums. I’m just going to do the way you did in the video and that keeps the filter to where I can service it normally.
I’m a big fan of rinsing off the engine when washing. Never high pressure to cause troubles but much nicer to work on a clean engine!
Have you done any tune and deletes for the ecodiesels? I’m considering a Jeep and wondering about the 3.0 diesel for it.
@@carls2210 do yourself a favor and install a catch can, they are cheap and they allow you to gut the filter so you won't build pressure. rear blown seal $$$$ vs catch can $ just saying ...
Luis Green
Question 🙋♂️. I have a stock 2014 ram 2500 tradesman. If I do this small upgrade to save my turbo in the long run will any messages come on my dashboard?.
Check engine light
Yea you have to open up the ccv filter and gut it there is filter material in it that gets all clogged up
Ya but I’m saying just replace the filter every 67500 miles like the owners manual says to so it doesn’t get clogged. Just my opinion though
The double filter you essentially added is going to create excess crankcase pressure and you will blow somethin...bet
Do you leave the old CCV filter in or remove and do you still change it?
Why if it’s a CCV delete
That engine bay is begging for a good wash
You need to gut the filter!
Aylin Mountain
Do you just leave the breather element under that cover?
Personally I do and I replace them when the “perform service” light comes on but you could gut it out if you wanted to. It will just make that little filter oily faster.
Are you going to do one one gutting the stock CCV filter?
No I prefer to leave the filter myself. Just change it ever 65k miles when is says
Thanks
Any downside to doing this?
Hmm I might try this. But I'll just plug the hose up top so I don't need to take the intake tube off.
What do you mean??? You need to have that vent up top, you can’t plug it.
@@darkirondiesel
I mean, instead of pulling the intake tube then cutting the hose I'll leave it be. Take the hose off from the CCV and plug it there. Then add the filter to the case. Less work same result.
Ah I see what you mean. Gotchya
@@handtohandcombat3535 if your Lazy …..
@@kevinhounslow1222
Naw I have to smog yearly and put everything back on
I did the same thing and the engine light came on so i put back .
Really, what code did you get? Because you should not get any code doing this, and even on dirty diesel customs website it says “requires no tuning” did you unplug that little sensor where the hose comes out of the valve cover? Because that has to stay plugged in.
Yep thats the same thing happened to me. When I install the filter the engine light came on. My truck is a 2014. So I put the hose back on to the turbo intake. Forgot what the code said too...thx for the video.
@@darkirondiesel i left the sensor in , cant remember the code …. But i did do it before the truck was deleted . Might try it again since i still have the kit sitting in the garage .
I've heard of that happening on stock trucks because there is no longer the evacuation of base pressure and the sensor trips the light.
@@Itsa_Mea aight thanks for the info. 👍
WHY NOT PUT A CATCH CAN ON IT WOULDNT THAT KEEP THE GUNK OUT OF THE INTAKE TO THE TURBO ......
Hi
I just ordered a 6.7L 2022 Ram.
I plan on getting it deleted right away for better mileage and longevity.
Do you recommend a aftermarket filtration system?
I live in Alberta BTW.
Awesome content thank you very much.
I have one too. No tunes available yet
Nice video. How do people with fully deleted trucks pass emission tests?
They don’t
@@darkirondiesel then how do they keep their trucks on the road?
Well I’m not sure because there is no emission testing where I live, but I’d assume they put the stock parts back on for the test then remove them again afterwards
@@darkirondiesel ok. Thanks for taking the time to explain
@@bigsteve8037 You have to know a guy that does inspection, they have ways for you to pass emissions. They can pass it from a dummy car etc. a lot of places do, you'll have to pay extra of course.
Turcotte Junctions
Texas plates in saskabush
Do you need a tune ? For this ?
Nope
Depends on your luck I guess I did this Sunday Monday morning I had code p04DB cleared it couple times just keeps coming back
Truck throw any codes?
Good question, no it won’t throw a code and does not require any tuning.
👍💪
You forgot to cut open and remove the filter material in the stock filter. It's the only way this mod works properly.
It will just gum up the stock filter material and not vent properly.
Oh, check under your hood here in about 20000 miles or so and tell me if you have oil all over everything.
Catch can is the only way to go. If done right not only will it vent into the atmosphere it will vent garbage all over the engine bay.
The most useless delete ever.
These trucks have VGT turbo chargers, the vent line tapped into your intake is pulling crank case gases into your turbo (epic EPA fail). The guide vains on your turbo that actuate your variable geometry turbo will eventually gum up to the point of failure. Turbo’s are expensive.. that’s incentive enough for most.