Adding Gable Vents to Our Corner Attic
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- I have to get better air flow above our kitchen in this section of the attic so I am cutting holes in the house and adding a pair of gable vents.
Hope this helps you out.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks I'm doing this in my parents attic. Helps a lot. 👍
Glad it helped!
Wonderful video! I'm trying to figure out how to replace my built-in gable triangle vent with a prefabricated solution and this has given me ideas. Thank you for the helpful tutorial!
Hey that's great. Very glad i could help. Good luck!
Thank you, sir! That's really helpful!
Glad to hear that!
I moved into an old house that has no roof vents or insulation. I've got my work cut out for me. This was good for my research, thanks.
No problem. Sounds like the same as us. I want to add a solar vent fan in one end of the attic still but i can't tell you what a difference adding the gable vents and insulation and radiant barrier made. 10 inch r30. Fyi. Check out my radiant barrier videos. I put it on the roof line and laid on top of the insulation. Seal som air gaps too at top of the walls. HUGE difference.
Thanks for the video, hope to install two soon.
You're welcome. And good luck.
Great information. I have similar set up being end unit in townhome complex in Denver. Here’s a comment I forwarded to another person but had no response. I’ll be adding radiant barrier to bottom of trusses/rafters and on gable wall attached 1.5” foiled rigid foam board with air gap. Will need deal with HOA approval to cut into gable so thinking of other solutions. There be no eves so need figure efficient way to install some air vents near where eves would have been or other places. The rest is ll in my comment so if you could kindly read it and share your thoughts would really appreciate it. Thanks ! Paul
Hey trying to deal with existing couple louvered box vents in roof. Have 700sq’ attic under insulated being hot as hell due to minimal 4” grey fluff insulation from 40 years ago. No insulation under roof trusses or gable wall. Going to add 1.5”EPS foam board foil faced outward to gable wall 2X6 studs 13”OC. They are sideways allowing for 11/2” reflective air space. Its a townhome so not wanting go through HOA crap to cut hole and install gable exhaust fan. I pulled the meshing from the roof vents also the circular aluminum piece for keeping critters out supposedly for unobstructed airflow.
QUESTION BEING - should I install 1000cfm fan housed directly underneath vents which would end up leaving approx 3-6” from blades to flat top surface of 12” vent. Concerned about high airflow bouncing back and about how much would be escaping through the small louvered slits in the four 3” sidewalls of vent. Sure be better creating unobstructed pathway as in large vents like in operable gable fan vents. Perhaps using fan at slower cfm might work. Or lower fan assembly down lower and utilize flex ducking attached to bottom of vent. There happens to be two vents literally on opposing sides of ridge (which doesn’t have ridge venting.)There be a third vent located approx 8’ over. What if I were to mount fan approx 4-6’ lower than vent/s running air up through flex duct that could have a Y split allowing for the air flow out of two vents simultaneously? For many years I chosen to use my 30” heavy duty fan mounted in the attic cubby hole in upstairs hallway. It mostly seemed useless not cooling attic down at all. After a closer look at the vents prior to just removing the mesh and 3” aluminum band it’s a no wonder hey being so inefficient. Rather than changing vents to something like whirlybirds or better functioning units how could I best jerryrig the existing vents allowing for maximum airflow efficiency. Will most certainly appreciate any advice offered. thanks, Paul Hey trying to deal with existing couple louvered box vents in roof. Have 700sq’ attic under insulated being hot as hell due to minimal 4” grey fluff insulation from 40 years ago. No insulation under roof trusses or gable wall. Going to add 1.5”EPS foam board foil faced outward to gable wall 2X6 studs 13”OC. They are sideways allowing for 11/2” reflective air space. Its a townhome so not wanting go through HOA crap to cut hole and install gable exhaust fan. I pulled the meshing from the roof vents also the circular aluminum piece for keeping critters out supposedly for unobstructed airflow.
QUESTION BEING - should I install 1000cfm fan housed directly underneath vents which would end up leaving approx 3-6” from blades to flat top surface of 12” vent. Concerned about high airflow bouncing back and about how much would be escaping through the small louvered slits in the four 3” sidewalls of vent. Sure be better creating unobstructed pathway as in large vents like in operable gable fan vents. Perhaps using fan at slower cfm might work. Or lower fan assembly down lower and utilize flex ducking attached to bottom of vent. There happens to be two vents literally on opposing sides of ridge (which doesn’t have ridge venting.)There be a third vent located approx 8’ over. What if I were to mount fan approx 4-6’ lower than vent/s running air up through flex duct that could have a Y split allowing for the air flow out of two vents simultaneously? For many years I chosen to use my 30” heavy duty fan mounted in the attic cubby hole in upstairs hallway. It mostly seemed useless not cooling attic down at all. After a closer look at the vents prior to just removing the mesh and 3” aluminum band it’s a no wonder hey being so inefficient. Rather than changing vents to something like whirlybirds or better functioning units how could I best jerryrig the existing vents allowing for maximum airflow efficiency. Will most certainly appreciate any advice offered.
I have a 100 year old house and no ventillation as well. The insulation company recommended to drill holes through the soffit and remove some bricks in the attic but that seems a lot of work.
Someone suggested duraflow(turbine vent). Any suggestions if its better to do gable vents or the duraflow or both? I have a window now in the gable section
I personally think the vents and duraflow turbine would be best. We have noticed an INCREDIBLE difference after insulating and adding the gable vents. I feel like we need more vents though and a turbine or solar powered fan might be what we need
@The Handy Homeowner actually after further research I might get a solar powered temperature controlled power vent for better performance based on the temperature in the attic. I hope that helps. Thanks for th3 video :)
my house also dosent have any soffit vents so im trying to put gable vents.
Would having1 gable vents on the North side and 1 on the corner of the south side be ok enought for air flow?
Im planning to put a exhaust fan on one end and another fan pushing the hot air on the other end.
I'm no expert by any means. If you arent certain perhaps comsult a professional first to see what they say? Or give it a shot and see what happens.
At 3 minutes you say you're going to put more insulation in that open area where the roof rafters are, but you're actually not supposed to do that. It's supposed to be open for the heated air from the roof to flow upward to the uppermost attic and exit naturally out the upper attic vents. There can be a thin layer of insulation but some of it must remain open for heated air to flow upward. That also means you only needed one gable vent, just to serve as an intake, and not two. Both of the ones you installed will act as intakes. I assume the house is similar to a bungalow that has a finished upstairs, giving it 3 attic areas (technically 5 if there is a dormer in the middle of one side). The 2 lower attic areas of the upstairs need some form of venting, either gable or soffit, and those naturally serve as intakes for cooler air, and the air naturally travels upward as the roof heats it, and goes out of the uppermost attic vents. Putting insulation in the area you suggested would block that natural upward airflow that the attic and inside of the roof is supposed to have.
I have a bungalow with a finished upstairs (so technically 3 attics) and a south facing roof in full sun all day with no lower gable vents on the south facing lower attic! I decided to try and figure out why it was getting so hot in the summer. All it took was a few minutes of forum reading after using somewhat specific search engine searches, and I realized how horrifically wrong and terrible my roof ventilation is. The previous owners indicated they replaced the shingles on the south facing side in about 2013. Now I can assume that was due to them being cooked so fast. They look old now even! I can't believe no roofers or handymen who have ever been in this house which is about 75 years old, ever realized the absolutely horrendous error in the airflow design. And here I am a layman homeowner who found the problem in 15 minutes once I decided to dedicate time to it. Too bad it was several years after moving in. There is only 1 tiny lower attic gable vent and it's for the NORTH facing lower roof which is useless! Thankfully my roof isn't leaking yet but the only 10 year old south facing shingles look noticeably worse than they did 4 years ago. How have I up until this point and every past homeowner and professional in this house not found such a glaring problem?! I'm excited to be doing this project in the next few weeks and not having an upstairs hotter than hades this summer. One vent will go on each of the East and West sides of the South facing roof. Thanks for the video, I'll probably use the drop cut technique too and maybe spray foam insulate any gaps on the inside to keep bugs out.
Awesome. I felt the same way. Built in 1935 and until i did this work and insulated and added radiant barrier people cooked in the upstairs all summer and FROZE all winter. Consider adding radiant barrier like i did in a couple videos. It made a big big difference.
Great video! Do you think it would be possible to cut the hole completely from the inside only with Vinyl siding on the outside?
Thanks! yes. As long as you are cutting between studs then i don't see why you would need to do it from outside. Drill a large hole with a spade bit and use a recip saw. Just don't push hard so the teeth don't grab the siding and break it. The problem i had was those shingles of mine will crack easily and are very hard to cut. So i wanted to be sure i wasn't pushing on them from the inside and creating a problem for myself.
Just take it slow and i think you will be ok.
@@thehandyhomeowner9781 thank you!!!
I’m somewhat handy also but I have vinyl siding. Any tips? Thx. Enjoy your vids
It will cut alot easier than mine but may chip if the blade has big teeth. I would probably use a plywood blade which has smaller teeth. Or google ways to cut vinyl siding and see where that leads. All my handiwork usually has alot of research behind it. Looks like yours does too. Good luck.
@@thehandyhomeowner9781 sorry late for getting back. Job was done without a hitch. Thanks for all your info.
@@thehandyhomeowner9781 So you do this stuff for fun rather than to save money? I mean, what's your time worth?
@@thehandyhomeowner9781 26:29
what balde do i use to cut stucco with ?
Possibly a cement board blade? Good question for google! Thanks
thank you ! @@thehandyhomeowner9781
Are you sure you do not have asbestos siding?
Good question. But from all my reaearch on the house, no. It isnt.
@@thehandyhomeowner9781 👍
That is asbestos siding. Lol.
I don't believe it is.
@@thehandyhomeowner9781 hope you don't smoke cigarettes, cause that is almost surely asbestos siding. Pressed fiberboard with wood grain texture and resembles wood shake/shingles, 12x24 inch tiles, house built before the early 1980's. Sure does fit the bill. My mom died from mesothelioma - which is asbestos cancer.
@@tripptunes61 appreciate the comment. something is gonna get me dead in the end.
This video should be called "How to breath in asbestos"