My D&D group loves our new table based on your concept! We have a 58" square table but for legs I made a base with 4x4 legs and 2x4 horizontal braces. Super sturdy. Instead of flooring I used some leftover OSB I had from making a dog house with the kids. I found some cushioned black polyester/spandex fabric at Hobby Lobby that I use for a game topper along with some of that non-slip mat stuff that you talked about in your other video. I screwed the cup holders directly into the 4x4s so the roll-ins weren't needed. Oddly I feel like the table is still a little too small to play D&D with 6 players and a DM, although it's probably all the stuff I used when I DM. I like using crafted terrain and use my laptop for notes so that all takes up a lot. I'm going to make some of the roll-in trays for my players and a large one for me to reduce the table space used. Thanks for being the inspiration for my new awesome gaming table! I can share pics if you want! I'm also planning on integrating a multi-outlet extension cord that my players can plug in their tablets and phones to charge since we use dndbeyond.
Fun to hear what you have done. A 5 foot square is a good size but as long as you don’t have to reach to the other side and just playing in the middle it would work well. That is bigger than anything we have built except for our octagon table that is 60 inches round. I am not yet happy with stability on that table but the sizing is really nice for those large games. Please send us your snail mail addy and we will send you a couple pics. Send it to officialgamegarage@gmail.com. Crafted terrain sounds really fun. Our Cross Roads table is bit over 8 feet in a cross which allows you to feel like you are sitting among the game. Maybe some day we get to share that table.
You are very kind! That is not an act. We decided at the very beginning if we just acted like ourselves that would be much easier than trying to be a character. We have slowly become more comfortable with the cameras but the working together has been going on for a long long time. Thanks for subscribing!!
I like those easy simple solutions. I hope to watch the video soon. The place I’m at has no decent connection … I get to comment on what I have not yet seen … killing me.
Thank you so much for the inspiration on this table build. I just completed mine with 3"x3" black extrusions all the way around (4' x 6' playing area) as well as 3x3 legs. I used the fasteners that you show for attaching legs at the corners as well, so it is extremely solid. Made a few other adjustments as well like instead of using flooring, I used two pieces of 1/2" plywood hung by carage bolts from the underside slots. Ran LEDS in the inside slot, game toppers mat, and finished the top with 1x4 poplar with a clearcoat to cover the snack catchers lol. Gotta be honest, the final build cost came in a substantial amount over your initial videos suggestion, but that's what you get when you go big! Again, thank you so much for your videos, explanation, and all the time and effort you put in. Love your videos, and please keep them coming!!!
Wow! You made several improvements that I’m sure increased the cost but I can see why would want them. 3x3 all around and the legs … impressive! It must be solid! I’ve so curious about the 3x3 but have never worked with it. Did you do anything for the seam of your floor plywood or did you get tongue and groove? Does the 1/2 inch give you good stability on the floor of the vault? We probably need to adjust our thumbnail as it was made many many months ago. Thanks for your comment. If you send us an address we would love to send you a couple game garage stickers. We are always stunned at how folks create, improve, and enjoy building their own masterpiece!
@The-Game-Garage Thank you for your reply and offer for some stickers. I'd love some! I'll send an email with my address. The half-inch plywood for the floor of the vault is extremely sturdy, but there is a seam down the middle that unfortunately I wasn't able to get as tight as I was hoping. It is the one weak point of the vault floor (still plenty strong for playing, though). I may add a thin piece of material on top of the floor and under the game mat just to get the mat to lay perfectly and not see my center seam. The 3x3 is super sturdy, and I like the look of it being a bit beefier. I went with it mostly to get a deeper vault. Little tip for the led in the slot is to put pieces of parchment paper in front of the lights to help difuse the LEDs so they don't blind you across the table. To finish it off, I plan on making plank toppers to cover the vault so the table can function as a dining table when not in game mode. I'm also building side tables to roll in as you showed. We mostly use the table for DnD for now, but I hope that this piece will open up opportunities for more board games in the future.
Thank you 🙏 for the butter and cinnamon on the toast, especially the leg’s. I’m definitely a leg guy 😉. You released this at the perfect time. I have the frame built, the laminate flooring built, and the tape on the flooring. I have not put them together yet. Perfect timing so now I can cut the wood for the legs before I press them together. I’m going to just pre-cut for now, but not use the legs until the have a room to permanently put the table. Again thank you two so much for this beautiful build. Bonus: I was also able to convince my wife that I “needed” a table saw for this project 😝. Keep up the good work gent’s, best content in ages.
Ok … men … pay attention here … Nathan got a two for one. He has a game vault and has used the “money savings” or the “look what I can do with a table saw, honey” and ended up with two tables - Game table and table saw. I am impressed. We must all learn from the master … hahahaha …thank you for your kind words and glad you liked the cinnamon toast!! Looking forward to seeing a pic of the table (with or without the legs)
A story follow-up. The flooring I had cut at Home Depot. Yeah I saved the scrap’s to take home and lay around the garage. When my wife saw all the flooring that “I” cut, she was impressed by this saw and my ability to use it so well. Now she says “I’m going to look at plans and have you build more thing’s, I’m gonna give you project’s”. Well okay 👌, thanks for setting me up for “needing” to buy more woodworking tools. Such a bummer she’s going to send me into the garage (where I obviously hate spending time), to do chores (like woodworking isn’t a true passion of mine), to make her (me) happy. So thanks not only for this table plan, and RUclips content, but also for enabling me to Segway the next chapter of my life.
Bahahahaha! We call that the snowball of a project. One simple little thing and before you know it you will be adding on a master bedroom with a closet the size of a bedroom. Good luck stopping the snowball … not that we really mind … just remember … a very important rule … every new project requires a new tool!! Wisdom from my Dad who we will someday get video of his garage/shop
I've been watching a lot of videos lately about building a gaming table. I don't have tons of tools to work with, and certainly not the space. You guys have presented the perfect fix. I already have lots of ideas for modifying it to meet my needs, and I only just finished watching the videos! I also like the whole "we're going to try this during the video" deal. Gives your videos the character they need to stand out.
We like to call that living on the edge of failure … It is entertaining to watch and is definitely real :). Building your table to fit your needs is probably one of the best parts of this type of table build. Send us a pic when you are done and we would love to send you a game garage sticker!!
I really miss doing stuff with my dad. I'm glad you two have a good hobby you enjoy together. Keep putting out content. Every single interaction and Dad joke just makes us happier!
Love the new tips and tricks for builds like this. The video work is getting better and I get excited when you guys post new content. Keep up the good work and game on!
Thank you! I’ll make sure Bodie sees this comment. He does the video work, lighting work, audio work, and “do that over, that was lame” work. I get to answer technical questions that involve fractions. Thanks for the encouraging words … we do like to improve the communication quality without making a big deal of it. The fact that you notice it is a cool reward.
Been meaning to comment and share - built my own table like yours last week, it came out great! I used a "2x4basics Work Bench" kit for the legs. T-nuts into the rails from the bottom, and some shallow hurricane nuts into the bottom of the planks for extra security. I'll take a quick video and share as soon as I get a chance.
Would love to see the pictures and if you could send us your snail mail addy we can send you a game garage sticker (for the under side of the table :) ). I really like your used of the work bench kit legs … I’m very curious how that looks. Several guys are looking for ideas that don’t include card table (because of size and wieght) and I’m wondering if you leg solution might be the cheapest but still working solution (anybody can set their vault on 5 gallon buckets but that doesn’t mean cheap is always best). Can’t wait to see your creation
@@The-Game-Garage Here's what it looks like! ruclips.net/video/YJxmSLEPA2M/видео.html Honestly not sure if it's cheaper than just getting aluminum extrusion legs hard mounted from the outset. This ran roughly $100-$130 for the legs all in - two of the 2x4basics kits, lumber, hardware, sandpaper, and stain. One advantage I can definitely think of is that they're very detachable if I need to move and fit it into a truck/van. When set up they definitely take up more player leg space than 4 corner posts, but I think look pretty good.
I think we got the legs done for about $75 but I watched your video and commented. They look great and your explanation is enough for others to follow if they like this option. I am amazed how many good ideas are out there on how to make their game table better. Thanks for taking the time to share.
I just built a 3.5x5.5' table with legs and 1/4" oak trim (8' lengths for $19 at Menards) to cap the rails, and it's terrific. Thanks, Sam & Bodie! I'll send pictures.
I've been meaning to message you guys thanking you for your videos. I made a table topper using 80mm x 40mm "C" beam style aluminum extrusion. The nice thing with that measurement was that I was able to order 4 one meter length pieces, which comes out to just over 36" x 36" interior space with the beams open on one end. We really like the 40mm deep play area, the two slots running the length of the sides and the 80mm arm rest which is pretty comfortable. I'll email pictures once I've got some more of the accessories completed!
Would love to see pictures!! Big time! Also if you sent us your snail mail we would love to send you stickers … we just had to order more stickers … lots of people making great looking tables!!
I used your info from your first table and made a 4 x 6’ gifted it to a local game store. Now with all these great ideas I need to make some more tables with legs!!!
Uh-ohhh … if you have a place that will use multiple tables your bank account could be in for a hit. Here at camp we have lots of options and Tabletopia keeps growing and so does our need for tables. I have already ordered legs for the two largest tables we have because finding the right table base is hardest for the biggest of tables. The legs are wonderful.
You may be one of the first people to comment that has watched both video in the same setting. Many people who have watched were hoping for the sequel. I think the combination of these two videos gives a guy lots of options. Thanks for both of your comments.
My dad and I just finished making the table this week for a two halves 3x5 table. We chose to just use two handles to attach the two sides when we are at the table. We were just today trying to figure out how to make the trays and you saved us doing a lot of trial and error!! I will send in some photos soon!!
Outstanding pair of videos you have created for these tables, and they look really cool too! Im researching and idea generating for what i want to do in my studio as i am in need of one and this is food for thought. Thank you both for making these videos :)
You are very welcome! The options are endless and customization is part of what makes it so much fun. We have made several tables and they are never the exact same … swords and brushes … there has to be a story behind that name … i like the sound of it!
Fantastic job and I enjoy the videos. They feel like when I am in the shop tinkering with ideas so Keep them coming. I really like how you take ideas that you might have had but that your viewers have also sent you and actually try them out!
It is quite addicting to keep hearing good ideas that just might be a better solution than the idea we had last week. Always under construction is a very appropriate tagline for our channel. Thanks for the comment.
My fiance and I have been looking to buy a gaming table for months and he found your video. WOW! That is great! We actually want to make it a table that we can also dine on, I hope you can get any ideas for this on the next video! Thanks for sharing your ingenuity!
@@The-Game-Garage I was actually think about something that we can put velcro or magnets on, so that we wouldn't have to use a screwdriver or an allen key to take off. A bit like the next step of your cat proofing... ;) I loved the concept by the way! :)
I could see the velcro working especially if you put the soft side on the game vault and the hook part on the table top. Another option out me making a 2x2 frame just a bit bigger than the vault allowing you to place the table top over the game vault and then on each side put in a dowel or bolt that would go into the t slot on the outside of the game table. This is hard to explain with out showing. I will add this idea to the pile of new ideas and I may work on the concept as we have a table at camp that could use this type of treatment. Interesting concept …
You guys are awesome...I really appreciate you taking the time to share these gems! I've been organizing my plans to build my own and REALLY look forward to it! When going to buy the floor planks, I told the guy at Lowe's I was using it for a table and he said he did that all the time to build tables and then talked about legs--including simple hairpin legs. What do you guys think about adding those to the table? Seems a lot less expensive than extruded aluminum. My concern is where and how to attach them? Any pointers? Thanks!
My biggest concern would be the attachment mechanism but it would be fairly easy to bolt just about anything to the bottom of it as long as you used the slot to bolt down to. I am amazed at the strength and ease of removal and setup that the aluminum legs have. I drag our table all around the shop every time we video because the table is in one spot for games and another spot for video. The legs are build like a tank but I think there would be some other options that are not quite a durable but definitely adequate. Let us know what you learn as you try it out!!
Hi guys. Thanks for this video. I love your design and that you keep it simple. And thanks for the effort you put in the description, I like very much that you detail every parts you're telling us about and even linking them. Most channel don't bother. Keep up the good work. And if anyone from Europe (France even better) knows where to buy those parts, please share. I have to convince my wife but I'd like to try building a table topper.
Love your table videos. In Europe we have companies like „Item“ or „Bosch“ who have a complete sales range of these aluminium profiles. Greets from Germany
Excellent … do you know if any of them have a roll in bracket? That is the one item that everyone in Europe seems to be looking for? If you can send me the right direction we would post it for others to see. Thanks for your comment.
@@The-Game-Garage I don't think they have a roll in bracket like the one you showed in your video. But they have a rebate profile up to 2m lenght which could do the job. Just cut and drill to your needs. Greets
This has opened up a whole new rabbit hole for me when designing tables. How well does the dark metals hold up to wear and tear? If they get scratched does the shiny metal show through easily?
I have been really surprised by how well the black has helped. I believe it is anodized which I don’t pretend to understand what that means. What it feels like though is a color that is not like powder coated on or added on top. I play primarily on a black railed table right now and it is wearing really well.
Hey guys, I’m inspired by your table. Thanks for introducing me to 8020! I went down the 8020 rabbit hole of watching videos. First question - is ordering from 8020 more expensive than Tnuts? Have you tried asking tnuts to Get you whatever you order from 8020? Second - Had an idea I thought I’d run by you. I totally trust the tape… BUT had an idea to use the slots on the inside to put in a bracket (probably not the roll in ones) and then put aluminum slats across like bed frames have. Some of the slats on 8020 are like $.19/ ft. Then the play surface can sit on top of the slats. The reason I wanted to do this over tape was it would work better with an idea I had for adding a leaf. Anyway, would love to hear your thoughts on the downsides to this. Keep making videos!
Tnutz has much less variety. What they do have is cheaper that 8020. I buy whatever I can from tnutz and the rest from 8020. Your idea would work but the depth of the vault would be less and the the tape adds some rigidity to everything. It is a curious thought and if you do it please send some pics of the process. Make sure you watch our second video on the table that deals with the leaf options and ways to connect everything. Our method of adding a leaf has no way to interlock the leaf with the two ends. I would also be tempted to look for a thrift store table with a leaf and then let the table be the base/floor and then just make an aluminum frame for the vault perimeter … so many ideas … so little time …
That washer fix on the roll-in tray is brilliant. It reminds me of the quarter Eddie Van Halen used as a spacer on his original Frankenstein guitar. If it’s good enough for EVH it’s good enough for me.
Have you tried to use the hinges on the legs and the table top together? It could maybe work like a decorators table, legs fold in and then fold in half for storage.
We have not tried that. I would be a little nervous about the ability of the leg to hold the 90 degree lock. The hinge is the easy part but the piece that holds it locked is the hard part. Right now it would be easier to just take the legs off and fold the table (with that special screw driver) than bolt on a 45 bracket going both directions for each leg. Knowing what I know of the hinge system I would not try it but I also know solving the locking 90 part may be solvable in a way I don’t know. There are so many options with this stuff that somebody else could easily come up with a good idea … would love to hear from anybody giving this configuration a whirl.
I’ve just ordered my parts . I’ve actually designed it so I have an 11inch ledge around the whole things to players have space for books and an area to roll dice . I actually have an area for the DM( me ) that is slightly lower than the players
I know I'm a little late to the party but I'm wanting to make one of these for D&D as well! Do you mind sharing which parts you used to create the wider ledge around the table as well as the lower area for DMing?
I ordered the parts, and should be assembling my vault this weekend. I am sad there is no accessible gallery of what people have done so far. I am really looking accessories or combos. Looking for an additional video.
We put together a little store for the future and we put a few of the pics of some of the tables we have built and some of the pictures from others. It think we have the content for another accessories video but it may be a bit light on content. In the comments section we have heard of several ideas that I think would be cool but I have not yet seen pics that would give us proof of concept. I’m curious what you are looking for in a new video. Let us know what you would like to see more of.
@@The-Game-Garage The cupholder has already been demonstrated so thats a plus. I want to see if anybody has modified one end of the table to hold a Dungeon Master Screen, a laptop setup or maybe various uses of the underside t-bolt track for hanging items. I am building my table with the intention of running various RPGs .
Some excellent ideas. That wide tray that we put on the second video has a ton of possibilities. Those roll in brackets seem to be begging for several types of accessories and they charge so much for some of these parts I wonder is a 3D printer small business could get into some accessories that would use the t-slot or the roll in option. I’ll talk with a friend about that. One of the most intriguing ideas that a guy talked with me this summer about was a plexiglass floor to the vault which would allow him to put a TV under the table which would provide for maps etc for that type of gaming. The t slots allow for a ton of flexibility in holding the flat screen snugly to the plexi. Just another idea to get the wheel turning. Let us know if you create something.
We have worked on one and used a bracket that we got from Amazon that in my mind was going to be perfect. We bought an aluminum cutting blade for our chop saw and we use our first version at camp but it has some serious design flaws that revolve around the rigidity of the hex. I think there are a couple of possible fixes that revolve around more connection holes to create more that one bolt on each side of the bracket but we have not taken the time to try to fix it yet. It is on our list but we got distracted with a sliding/retractable tray table … I know … so easily distracted … but thats what we’ve got for now … a whole bunch of “That’s not gonna work”. Let me know if you figure anything out. We are interested!
I have a friend who is always wanting me to add a TV to the design but I am not as familiar with the functionality of how it is used. I need to do a bit of research. the Hexagon table that we have fits nicely on a 60 inch round plastic table. A portion of the corner hangs off and a small portion of the round of the table pokes out of the flat space. This allows the cup holders to work great but you do have a little ledge from the round of the table. It’s not perfectly slick but we have used the hexagon at every big gathering of players because of the 5ft across all around. It is perfect for the biggest of table hogs.
Are you going to do a video showing us the hex table you have? Also I am an electrician and built a tv table (can send picture) with power points I can say the biggest issue you’ll face is cable management, in other words placement of power cables so they don’t interfere with data and HDMI cables for the tv.
We need to do another video on accessories and I think that hex table would be a good one to show. It takes a bit more tools because we use an aluminum blade on a chop saw to make the cuts and most people like our video because they are basically assembling their table and not building it out. We work with sound systems here at the camp so I know what you are talking about with wire management. We have so many videos we would like to make but this is still a hobby that is way down there on our priority list so I’m not sure what we will get done.
Covering the top of the rails with trim molding not only solves the cold metal feel problem but also the crumbs in the groove problem AND the problem of the rails looking odd because each one butts on one side. You can let the rails butt on one side so you still have a way to get sliding attachments in and out but make the molding on top butt on both ends. EDIT: I found a 1/4" thick, 3" wide oak trim at Menards. That's a winner.
I would also love to see the pictures of results from the community. Is there a public album somewhere? Also, where could the discussion about sourcing parts in Europe be found? Thanks for the great ideas. There are so many possibilities :)
BGG has a decent forum of DIY tables that has some reviews that used this plan. I don’t know much about it. Bodie knows more about that. I don’t know of a forum or gathering of info on the European parts search. We have heard in a couple of comments that the UK may have found a supplier. You are right! There are so many possibilities.
For the smaller trays we bought the mouse pad first and then made the tray with a one inch margin. 8x12 is a really nice size. The larger tray is the width of the short side of our table which is 42 inches by 10. We use a short tray and the long one if we are trying to make the table four x four. I am surprised how many times the long tray is used. We love it!!
I think what people were wondering is, what if you took the piece your using now and turn it on edge so the 3 inch dimension is your vault height and the 1.5 is the wall thickness.
Yes you can … I personally dont care for leaning on the 1.5 inch rail but some frame it on the interior to create 3 inch to lean on. I think this is just a personal preference thing.
I'd be interested to see if you've ever made any upgrade to use the top railing? Movable token tray or movable dice tray? It seems that you may favor the flat top to reduce the crumbs getting stuck everywhere? 😅
Sorry for the really late reply. I just made another vault and I used 1.5x1.5 rail with t-slot on three sides which gave me a solid top (for no crumbs) It is really slick. I’m also working on a wood rail 3 inch top and 1.5 inch inner frame giving me a wood feel on top and still have the t slot for the sides. We need to do another video on this design because I have liked it so far. Am still fiddling with some of the ways to attach the top wood railing. Have tried 3 or 4 but am not satisfied with any one design … yet.
have you guys added legs to any long tables? Hows was the "lean sag" in the middle? What I figure these are fine under their own weight, but wondered how much sag you would get on a 5 or 6' table, with a grognard putting some weight on the table towards the middle?
I don’t think you will have any issue with a 6 foot span and several folks leaning on it. I did not look up the actual specs but we have 6 foot tables that I am planning to put the legs on. I have not done it yet but I think it will work great. You also have the option of moving 6 or 12 inches in and putting the leg wherever you choose which would lessen the span. Also if you have an 8ft table and you want a center leg it would be easy to just add 2 more legs to the 4 you would normally have therefore cutting the spans in half.
It is a roll in panel bracket (item number 2488) from 80/20.net They sell it for about $6 in silver and $9 in black. I would order extra. I’m always amazed what I find to attach to them. They are the key component to the flexibility of the t slot aluminum.
8020.net has great diagrams and spec sheets. We are using a 15 series profile and this link will hopefully get you to the specs of a basic 1.5x15 15 series profile. 8020.net/1515.html
No issue at all with the method that we shared. It is really strong and we have drug our table all around the shop. You will be amazed! I have not put one on a 6ft long table but if you were nervous a 5th and 6th leg on on the center of the one rail is an easy add but I really believe just one in each corner will suffice. Let me know what you thing if you do it.
@@The-Game-Garage Glad to hear! The table just needs the plastic strips to cover the gaps on the top as well as the metal pieces from 8020 for the cup holders. I'll send you a pic when it is all completed. Ill play a game and see what everyone thinks about the shake. (My kids like to come up and shake it but in practice during a game no one shakes it 😂.) I have to say im really impressed with the tape. It feels really solid. I did add an extra 1/2 inch piece of the tape on all of the tides just to give it a little extra support. Probably not necessary at all but there was space for it.
We will send some stickers! Kid proof table … we should add that to the description :). Yeah, the tape is the most often asked question and all we can do is share our experience. A new comment that adds weight to the “tape is really good” answer would be cool. You will love the cup holders. I wish someone would just sell those because we get requests to sell those as well. I probably would have added the extra 1/2 inch piece as well. Good call!
Well I got some corner braces and plates to bolster my shaky table. As I was installing all the improvements, I noted that I had installed all the nuts upside down in the t slots where the legs attached to the siderails😂. Well I flipped those nuts and added my extra support (which may have been completely unnecessary). Anyway the table does not shake and looks great. Thanks for the recommendation of how to build a DIY table! It is great. I'm not sure how to send you pics but let me know how and I will.
Any suggestions to mount the table panel to the underside with fasteners rather than adhesive? Some various T slot manufacturers have panel mounting options, but none seem to have the nice under-rail fit that your adhesive option has.
Our first ever table we used a piece of mdf that was very heavy and then drilled 5/16 holes that then we counter sunk a bolt into it and then it connected to a nut in the t-slot. It worked but it was a pain. A friend told me about the tape that they were using on large glass and we that is the last time I have attached the table using bolts. If it was a permanent table then drilling and bolting would work fine but one of our goals was a removeable topper so we never experimented. If I were going to experiment again I would use another piece of rail the length of the short end and with one on each end I could try to manufacture a type of clamp that would hold the floor to the frame of the vault. I think a secondary frame of wood or metal could be built be I have no experience with it.
Just played a 5 person game around the table with the new legs that required a lot of leaning to the middle to get cards. It wasn’t a game of spoons or Dutch blitz but it put the table through its paces. I really like it. Legs are in the absolute corner which with a 3x4 table means that nobody is running into the leg. I actually like the fact that there is not a center column like we have with the dining room table. We reoriented the table by picking up one end and pulling it around. No problem at all with stability. I do think that the 1/4 inch hex driver that looks like a classic screw driver is a must have tool. I did not have one for the video (it came in a day or so late) but using it to tighten things up is really easy and fast. The improvement over the card table is much bigger than I expected. The crew I was playing with noticed it. They have played both ways and they also liked the look of it. I highly recommend it. I believe it will take me about 5 minutes to remove the legs and about 8 minutes to attach them. I’m going to try to loosen both assemblies and then slide them off with the nut still attached. If you have a big table (6ft or longer) I think the four legs make that table amazing.
@@The-Game-Garage awesome thanks for the reply, just what I wanted to hear. I've already got my legs on the way from tnutz. My table topper is 4x4 so I had it on 2 4x2 card tables so the legs were definitely in the way. Love the channel, you guys are awesome!
@@The-Game-Garage have you guys thought of doing a hexagon or octagon shaped table? There's gotta be some kind of 120 or 135 degree angle bracket to help facilitate that.
Ohhh yeah!!! From amazon there is a 135 degree 40 series metal bracket that we have attempted to work with. My first effort was an octagon that sits on a 60 inch round table with a yoga mat as the game mat. It worked for the camp we did and was a well used table. We did a wood insert 1.5 inches and had an aluminum piece 1.5 inches wide. Attaching those together and using the brackets made for a wobbly finished product … not one of our better builds. It has promise but our first prototype will not pass for a finished product. I need to play around with it.
For the tables that are going to have permanent legs, one possibility would be to have sides butt up against the legs themselves. his would add about 1.5 inches to the legs, but the overall look would be much nicer. All I need to do now is to figure out how to do it this way and bottom at the same time. I might have to apply the floor "upside down" to the "top" and once it is set, loosen the legs and slide them to the other end. Now that I am thinking this over, what are the advantages you see for using the 1530 over the 1515? if I do the 1530, I'll have to use 3030 for the legs, or figure out how to butt a 3030 to a 1515 end to end.
Hmmmm … you’ve got some thinking to do. One of my favorite tables was an early model that is built out of 1515 and then has an insert made of wood with the bottom screwed to the wood. It has the 1515 as the outside frame and the wooden one for the inside frame. It is the lightest table I have and one of the first ones I take if my game group is 3 or 4 and it fits on a card table perfect. I honestly had not thought of a side mount for the leg. That is interesting partly because you would have other connection points for accessories or extended legs on one end for DM stuff. The 1515 is plenty strong for any of the leg work. I think the 3030 everywhere would be aesthetically pleasing.
Could you guys please do a follow up about that table at 34:00. I really love this concept but my ideal table would have the 45 degree miter to make the top lines make a continuous square. Is that something the manufacturer can do or is that something you did? How does the fastening system work? Would the light strip on the internal insert still work the same way?
I knew adding that little tidbit would make some one say … ohhhhhh … I like that!. This was a table that we made before knowing about the tape and before we ordered wider rails … it was an early effort. The 45 miter cut is something that tnutz will do on a 1.5x1.5 inch piece of 15 series extrusion. It is at the end of their machining options and you will want to choose the “45 miter cut with counterbore and mounting hardware” for $5 on each end. Then you don’t need any braces. It cost $40 more dollars for all the custom miter on both ends of 4 rails but it is a really clean look. Next we order it with the 1.5x3 inch 15 series rails and they mitered it on the 1.5 side of the rail and not the 3 inch side of the rail. I never called them to see if I could get the miter to look like a frame instead of way it was done. That little snafu made me avoid the 45 miter for the next several vaults but now I am tempted to go back to the counterbore 45 miter. I understand it a bit better now. We can add that table to a part 3 list of details we need to show better. If my memory is correct the hardest part of this set up was the blind connection of the inside wood frame to the outside metal frame. We countersunk a bolt that connected to a t slot nut. You will see the four bolts on the interior of the vault. I highly recommend this type of build if the two tone rail top does not bother you.
@@The-Game-Garage Thank you for the response. My ideal would be having the cut on the 1.5X3 on the 3 inch side that way they double top stripe makes a continuous square and the plastic inserts can be cut to fit to make a decorative double stripe. I will have to get in contact with them to see if that is something they would do. When I play games its usually with 8-10 people so I am trying to think carefully before any purchase because it will be a gaming coffee table, and it will be massive. Would the lighting strip on the interior work the same way or is how the 45 degree miter fastened together get in the way of the corners?
Yes the lighting strip would work best on this style. The inside t slot is totally clear all the way around. And yes I agree with your desire to have the 45 on the 3 inch side but I don’t know if they do that. I would guess an email to them may find out how to ask for that. I would imagine they are capable but I don’t know how to ask for it. I would be interested in anything that you learn about this.
@@The-Game-Garage To follow up I did order the 1.5 x 3 extrusions with the 45 degree miter cuts on the 3 inch side. To do so at check out you need to write in the little box that you want the miter cuts on the 3 inch side. The question I have for you with your table that has the 45 cuts is did the mounting hardware they sent you work to attach the 90 degree corners or did you fasten it with something else? The hardware they sent me seems to be for attaching the 45 degree cut to a t-slot and not for joining the two cuts to make a 90 degree corner.
Ohhhh boy … this was a long time ago. I don’t remember very clearly. It seems that what they sent me was what I used mostly but I seem to vaguely remember having to add a washer or a longer bolt or something. When I look at it now it all looks like standard stuff but I can’t remember what it was. It attaches to the outside corner of the 45 so I don’t think it would matter where it was 1.5 inches wide or 3 inches wide … they would send the same connector … I am very glad to hear how to make the 45 cut. I now need to save pennies to order another set of rails :)
A great question … they are loose right now. There are times where I want to have something that holds them down but they get the brunt of the mess of the table so they are always needed to be be cleaned/replaced/crum removal/etc. Now I treat them like a game mat and they come placed on the table when needed.
We have not finished that project completely. The hardware part worked perfectly but I have not actually put the leaf together with the tape. I have it all set to go in the garage and have seemed to get distracted by too many other priorities. Hopefully will finish it this fall and use it at our camp’s Tabletopia event. I am 95% sure that it will all work. Maybe we can post up some pics when we finish.
That is a concern. I have used my table for the past 3 months in the garage with just the tape holding. It is not as big as the vault and it was installed a year ago but there was no failure but it still concerns me. I’ve thought about a 1x4 that I bolt to the t slot on all four sides but so far it has worked perfectly. That tape has continued to be the surprise of the project. Didn’t think it would perform but so far I am amazed. We should get a sponsorship from them :)
Yes, many people have asked about just setting the floor in the side facing t slot. In our minds not a good idea. The stability of the counterbore assemblies might make me change my mind on the stability issue. The second reason I don’t like the idea is because of how shallow it makes the vault. If you want a shallow vault then you may give this a whirl. If you do this and you don’t like it you have plenty of ability to keep the rails and rework the floor a different way. I wouldn’t be surprised if someone builds on that they really like that doesn’t use our advice (In fact sometimes that is the challenge that some people need to go figure it out and do it). Tape has worked great but I understand everyone’s concern. All I know is my own limited experience. If I were building a puzzle table I am trying to figure out a shallow vault option. Hope that is clear … I think I’m rambling.
We do not know of a supplier other than 80/20. Europe has also been searching. The only thing we have heard of is shipping to a friend who ships to you. And occasionally eBay has roll in that somebody is selling. Let us know if you find anything. We will add link to description
I think the 3030 (3 inches square) would be a really interesting option. If you used custom legs to keep the table height back to normal I think it could work. When we were first doing tables they always sat on top of another table. Put a 4x4 on a table and that will be the basic height of your vault. Put a 2x4 laying flat and that is the height of 15/30 lay8ng flat. If the 1530 is standing vertical then you just have an 1.5 inches to rest your arms on. To simulate that would be like using the 2x4 standing the on short edge. Comfort of tallness and width is why we always laid the 1530 on it side … but a 3030 with shorter legs to account for bigger piece would be very interesting. Make sure your floor is as thick and strong as you can find because it is just placed in the track it is just free floating and is not adding any bracing to to the overall structure. It will be easier for the floor to sag. We’ve never done it partly because the 3030 is a bit more money but it does intrigue me. Let us know if you attempt the build. Would love to hear what you learn.
I cut my material about 3/4 of a inch shorter than each side. That means you don’t see the floor as it does not come flush to the end. I wanted to use the wide flat spot of the rail for the tape but I did not need it to go all the way to the edge. You would have to be down at vault level to see the side of floor edge. I think a fiberglass 1/2 inch quarter round in the trim section of Home Depot would be another way of covering that edge. You would want to make sure that the floor came far enough out that you quarter round had something to glue to. You could also pin nail it to the edge of the floor. I have never done that but it should work.
@@The-Game-Garage thanks that's a good idea! I also found some Series 10 extrusion that is only .75" thick that I think I am going to use as cross bracing for the floor in three areas (play area is going to be 3.5' by 5.5'). Also, did you account for the thickness of the end caps (3/16”) when designing the frame to ensure flush outer edge all the way around?
I used corner brackets that slide in and allowed setting them in any location to allow for flush. I measured exactly the size of the mat and added 3 inches for the rails and then the end cap added about an eighth of an inch which kinda became the margin around the mat on the inside of the table. That is a great question. Soooo … if your are trying to make the mat fit tight then you need to adjust by an 1/8 of an inch.
Why not put the hinge on the bottom of the joint? This might beg for something that fits over it to deal with sharp edges, but that should be doable... And your "roll-in" table, I'd think two of the joint-parts would make it likely much much more stable feeling. Probably not needed, but betting it would work better. As to the "deeper vault" -- rotate the 8020 90 degrees, so it is vertical rather than horizontal. Then put a wooden (possibly with some padding) top onto it to give it "depth" as the place to rest your arms.. Then you have the lower rail opening for anything that needs extra space for the roll-in component. This could also allow you to set-in the board surface into the rail, while still keeping most of the depth... Yes, this is probably more suitable for a fixed table rather than a removable one. ;-)
Several have mention the in slot option for the 3 inch deep vault. I have yet to see a picture of it but I think it is worth trying. You will need to add the extra support at each corner since the tape is not giving any stability to the table. The hinge on the bottom side is a definite possibility. I was after the feeling of briefcase that I could keep mats and accessories inside of but that meant having a seen hinge instead of hidden on the bottom side. Also if on the bottom you have to deal with how flat it is sitting on your table or if it is hanging over enough to not be an issue … so many possibilities!
I have never done it so I am just spitballing here … I would make a a plexiglass floor to the vault and then bolt on two 1.5x1.5 rails to the long end and then a couple of short rails to make a frame that is big enough to hold the TV. The frame would almost act like a nest to hold the TV facing upward and then I would figure out the correct spacers necessary to hold the tv up against the plexiglass and then bolt it up to the vault frame … it seems easy in my head but because I’ve never done it I have no idea what problems I would encounter … would love to hear from you if you try it.
Did you make one that way?? I’d love to see pics. When I did it I had to put them on top because of the floor taped on stuck out to far. I would guess there is a way to get around that but I did not solve that.
This is an interesting dilemma that I did not put much think time into. Ill bet if the spacing were right then placing the hinges on top of the tape and floor would work with a longer bolt. I was so intent on making a briefcase for travel that i did not go down the road you propose. I may try it with one of our already built table …. Hmmmm …
Love your guys' work! My question is now that you have the legs on, there is no card table supporting the bottom of the table. It is just the tape holding up all of the floor planks as well as whatever game and stuff is on the table. Is the tape strong enough? Have you tried adding enough wait to the legged table so that the bottom does fall out?
Excellent question!! The one that we set up for the video has been sitting in the garage since we built it. No issues so far but I do see the concern that you have. Would wonder about a secondary bolt that goes into a nut on the underside t-slot. We have put maybe 8-10 hours of game play on the new leg version table. Really like it. I’ll keep an eye on the floor for separation or issues … so far none.
Wait, why aren't the legs also the corners so you don't have to overlap the extruded aluminum at the corners? Instead of this: | | | | | |==== Like this: | | | | | | [ ]=== where the square bracket is the leg and the end of the leg is flush with the top of the horizontal bars.
My D&D group loves our new table based on your concept!
We have a 58" square table but for legs I made a base with 4x4 legs and 2x4 horizontal braces. Super sturdy. Instead of flooring I used some leftover OSB I had from making a dog house with the kids. I found some cushioned black polyester/spandex fabric at Hobby Lobby that I use for a game topper along with some of that non-slip mat stuff that you talked about in your other video. I screwed the cup holders directly into the 4x4s so the roll-ins weren't needed.
Oddly I feel like the table is still a little too small to play D&D with 6 players and a DM, although it's probably all the stuff I used when I DM. I like using crafted terrain and use my laptop for notes so that all takes up a lot.
I'm going to make some of the roll-in trays for my players and a large one for me to reduce the table space used. Thanks for being the inspiration for my new awesome gaming table! I can share pics if you want!
I'm also planning on integrating a multi-outlet extension cord that my players can plug in their tablets and phones to charge since we use dndbeyond.
Fun to hear what you have done. A 5 foot square is a good size but as long as you don’t have to reach to the other side and just playing in the middle it would work well. That is bigger than anything we have built except for our octagon table that is 60 inches round. I am not yet happy with stability on that table but the sizing is really nice for those large games. Please send us your snail mail addy and we will send you a couple pics. Send it to officialgamegarage@gmail.com. Crafted terrain sounds really fun. Our Cross Roads table is bit over 8 feet in a cross which allows you to feel like you are sitting among the game. Maybe some day we get to share that table.
I subscribed because it is nice to see father and son working together on projects and seeming to enjoy it. Thanks! And keep having fun together!
You are very kind! That is not an act. We decided at the very beginning if we just acted like ourselves that would be much easier than trying to be a character. We have slowly become more comfortable with the cameras but the working together has been going on for a long long time. Thanks for subscribing!!
Thanks for including my table at the end of the video guys! We are loving the design. I'm going to try out the washer trick on the snack tables.
I like those easy simple solutions. I hope to watch the video soon. The place I’m at has no decent connection … I get to comment on what I have not yet seen … killing me.
Great video! Love to see affordable table options that don't require a woodworkers shop to complete
thank you!! It is a fun build!
Thank you so much for the inspiration on this table build. I just completed mine with 3"x3" black extrusions all the way around (4' x 6' playing area) as well as 3x3 legs. I used the fasteners that you show for attaching legs at the corners as well, so it is extremely solid. Made a few other adjustments as well like instead of using flooring, I used two pieces of 1/2" plywood hung by carage bolts from the underside slots. Ran LEDS in the inside slot, game toppers mat, and finished the top with 1x4 poplar with a clearcoat to cover the snack catchers lol. Gotta be honest, the final build cost came in a substantial amount over your initial videos suggestion, but that's what you get when you go big! Again, thank you so much for your videos, explanation, and all the time and effort you put in. Love your videos, and please keep them coming!!!
Wow! You made several improvements that I’m sure increased the cost but I can see why would want them. 3x3 all around and the legs … impressive! It must be solid! I’ve so curious about the 3x3 but have never worked with it. Did you do anything for the seam of your floor plywood or did you get tongue and groove? Does the 1/2 inch give you good stability on the floor of the vault? We probably need to adjust our thumbnail as it was made many many months ago. Thanks for your comment. If you send us an address we would love to send you a couple game garage stickers. We are always stunned at how folks create, improve, and enjoy building their own masterpiece!
@The-Game-Garage Thank you for your reply and offer for some stickers. I'd love some! I'll send an email with my address. The half-inch plywood for the floor of the vault is extremely sturdy, but there is a seam down the middle that unfortunately I wasn't able to get as tight as I was hoping. It is the one weak point of the vault floor (still plenty strong for playing, though). I may add a thin piece of material on top of the floor and under the game mat just to get the mat to lay perfectly and not see my center seam. The 3x3 is super sturdy, and I like the look of it being a bit beefier. I went with it mostly to get a deeper vault. Little tip for the led in the slot is to put pieces of parchment paper in front of the lights to help difuse the LEDs so they don't blind you across the table. To finish it off, I plan on making plank toppers to cover the vault so the table can function as a dining table when not in game mode. I'm also building side tables to roll in as you showed. We mostly use the table for DnD for now, but I hope that this piece will open up opportunities for more board games in the future.
Thank you 🙏 for the butter and cinnamon on the toast, especially the leg’s. I’m definitely a leg guy 😉. You released this at the perfect time. I have the frame built, the laminate flooring built, and the tape on the flooring. I have not put them together yet. Perfect timing so now I can cut the wood for the legs before I press them together. I’m going to just pre-cut for now, but not use the legs until the have a room to permanently put the table. Again thank you two so much for this beautiful build. Bonus: I was also able to convince my wife that I “needed” a table saw for this project 😝. Keep up the good work gent’s, best content in ages.
Ok … men … pay attention here … Nathan got a two for one. He has a game vault and has used the “money savings” or the “look what I can do with a table saw, honey” and ended up with two tables - Game table and table saw. I am impressed. We must all learn from the master … hahahaha …thank you for your kind words and glad you liked the cinnamon toast!! Looking forward to seeing a pic of the table (with or without the legs)
A story follow-up. The flooring I had cut at Home Depot. Yeah I saved the scrap’s to take home and lay around the garage. When my wife saw all the flooring that “I” cut, she was impressed by this saw and my ability to use it so well. Now she says “I’m going to look at plans and have you build more thing’s, I’m gonna give you project’s”. Well okay 👌, thanks for setting me up for “needing” to buy more woodworking tools. Such a bummer she’s going to send me into the garage (where I obviously hate spending time), to do chores (like woodworking isn’t a true passion of mine), to make her (me) happy. So thanks not only for this table plan, and RUclips content, but also for enabling me to Segway the next chapter of my life.
Bahahahaha! We call that the snowball of a project. One simple little thing and before you know it you will be adding on a master bedroom with a closet the size of a bedroom. Good luck stopping the snowball … not that we really mind … just remember … a very important rule … every new project requires a new tool!! Wisdom from my Dad who we will someday get video of his garage/shop
I've been watching a lot of videos lately about building a gaming table. I don't have tons of tools to work with, and certainly not the space. You guys have presented the perfect fix. I already have lots of ideas for modifying it to meet my needs, and I only just finished watching the videos!
I also like the whole "we're going to try this during the video" deal. Gives your videos the character they need to stand out.
We like to call that living on the edge of failure … It is entertaining to watch and is definitely real :). Building your table to fit your needs is probably one of the best parts of this type of table build. Send us a pic when you are done and we would love to send you a game garage sticker!!
I really miss doing stuff with my dad. I'm glad you two have a good hobby you enjoy together. Keep putting out content. Every single interaction and Dad joke just makes us happier!
Kind words! We do enjoy working together!
Love the new tips and tricks for builds like this. The video work is getting better and I get excited when you guys post new content. Keep up the good work and game on!
Thank you! I’ll make sure Bodie sees this comment. He does the video work, lighting work, audio work, and “do that over, that was lame” work. I get to answer technical questions that involve fractions. Thanks for the encouraging words … we do like to improve the communication quality without making a big deal of it. The fact that you notice it is a cool reward.
Been meaning to comment and share - built my own table like yours last week, it came out great! I used a "2x4basics Work Bench" kit for the legs. T-nuts into the rails from the bottom, and some shallow hurricane nuts into the bottom of the planks for extra security. I'll take a quick video and share as soon as I get a chance.
Would love to see the pictures and if you could send us your snail mail addy we can send you a game garage sticker (for the under side of the table :) ). I really like your used of the work bench kit legs … I’m very curious how that looks. Several guys are looking for ideas that don’t include card table (because of size and wieght) and I’m wondering if you leg solution might be the cheapest but still working solution (anybody can set their vault on 5 gallon buckets but that doesn’t mean cheap is always best). Can’t wait to see your creation
@@The-Game-Garage Here's what it looks like! ruclips.net/video/YJxmSLEPA2M/видео.html Honestly not sure if it's cheaper than just getting aluminum extrusion legs hard mounted from the outset. This ran roughly $100-$130 for the legs all in - two of the 2x4basics kits, lumber, hardware, sandpaper, and stain. One advantage I can definitely think of is that they're very detachable if I need to move and fit it into a truck/van. When set up they definitely take up more player leg space than 4 corner posts, but I think look pretty good.
I think we got the legs done for about $75 but I watched your video and commented. They look great and your explanation is enough for others to follow if they like this option. I am amazed how many good ideas are out there on how to make their game table better. Thanks for taking the time to share.
I just built a 3.5x5.5' table with legs and 1/4" oak trim (8' lengths for $19 at Menards) to cap the rails, and it's terrific. Thanks, Sam & Bodie! I'll send pictures.
Can’t wait to see the pictures and I think the cap idea is great. We have not put any on our tables but I think it is a great idea!!
I've been meaning to message you guys thanking you for your videos. I made a table topper using 80mm x 40mm "C" beam style aluminum extrusion. The nice thing with that measurement was that I was able to order 4 one meter length pieces, which comes out to just over 36" x 36" interior space with the beams open on one end. We really like the 40mm deep play area, the two slots running the length of the sides and the 80mm arm rest which is pretty comfortable. I'll email pictures once I've got some more of the accessories completed!
Would love to see pictures!! Big time! Also if you sent us your snail mail we would love to send you stickers … we just had to order more stickers … lots of people making great looking tables!!
You guys are the definition of “we have fun here” 😁
Thank you so much for sharing! ✌️
Thanks, we are glad that comes across. We know on the inside we are having fun but we are glad it is communicated. Thx for the kind words.
Thanks for the update!
I'm hoping to find parts here in the UK one day...
There are many people in Europe wishing they had an option. If anyone figures it out please let us know so we can share with others.
I used your info from your first table and made a 4 x 6’ gifted it to a local game store. Now with all these great ideas I need to make some more tables with legs!!!
Uh-ohhh … if you have a place that will use multiple tables your bank account could be in for a hit. Here at camp we have lots of options and Tabletopia keeps growing and so does our need for tables. I have already ordered legs for the two largest tables we have because finding the right table base is hardest for the biggest of tables. The legs are wonderful.
Great “add-on” video!
You may be one of the first people to comment that has watched both video in the same setting. Many people who have watched were hoping for the sequel. I think the combination of these two videos gives a guy lots of options. Thanks for both of your comments.
Great video! Almost makes me want to build another but with legs...so tempting! Thanks for the update!
We added legs to a pre built table but I also must admit I have a couple more sets ready to be added. Thank you!
“By nut he means bolt.”
Hilarious
Thanks Eric! I definitely had a mind freeze on that one
My dad and I just finished making the table this week for a two halves 3x5 table. We chose to just use two handles to attach the two sides when we are at the table. We were just today trying to figure out how to make the trays and you saved us doing a lot of trial and error!! I will send in some photos soon!!
Can’t wait to see them. We look forward to sending you a sticker!!
you guys are great !! such a pleasure to listen to you ! such a good vibe !!! cheers from Reunion Island !
Thanks a bunch!!!
Thank you! I couldn't locate the roll-in panel mounts on the 80/20 site. Thanks for the part number.
Great!!
Outstanding pair of videos you have created for these tables, and they look really cool too! Im researching and idea generating for what i want to do in my studio as i am in need of one and this is food for thought. Thank you both for making these videos :)
You are very welcome! The options are endless and customization is part of what makes it so much fun. We have made several tables and they are never the exact same … swords and brushes … there has to be a story behind that name … i like the sound of it!
Nice. Moving up to a more substantial table and structure. 🤓💪
Yes, it definitely makes a big difference. I was ok with the card table we had but the new legs are amazing.
Nice work guys! What a great idea!
Thanks a bunch. I like your handle … I’ll bet there is a story behind echo papa
@@The-Game-Garage kind of. I am retired military and my initials are EP which in NATO phonetics is Echo Papa.
I wondered! I like it! Thanks
Fantastic job and I enjoy the videos. They feel like when I am in the shop tinkering with ideas so Keep them coming. I really like how you take ideas that you might have had but that your viewers have also sent you and actually try them out!
It is quite addicting to keep hearing good ideas that just might be a better solution than the idea we had last week. Always under construction is a very appropriate tagline for our channel. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks. It really helped me allot in thinking about designing a table (never mind you two are hilarious).
You are very kind. The adventure of building tables has been a lot of fun … and of course working together is also fun! Thanks!
My fiance and I have been looking to buy a gaming table for months and he found your video. WOW! That is great! We actually want to make it a table that we can also dine on, I hope you can get any ideas for this on the next video! Thanks for sharing your ingenuity!
An interesting idea. I wonder if you could find a table top that could bolt down to the top. Hmmmm…
@@The-Game-Garage I was actually think about something that we can put velcro or magnets on, so that we wouldn't have to use a screwdriver or an allen key to take off. A bit like the next step of your cat proofing... ;) I loved the concept by the way! :)
I could see the velcro working especially if you put the soft side on the game vault and the hook part on the table top. Another option out me making a 2x2 frame just a bit bigger than the vault allowing you to place the table top over the game vault and then on each side put in a dowel or bolt that would go into the t slot on the outside of the game table. This is hard to explain with out showing. I will add this idea to the pile of new ideas and I may work on the concept as we have a table at camp that could use this type of treatment. Interesting concept …
great video. appreciate the update.
Thanks a bunch!!
You guys are awesome...I really appreciate you taking the time to share these gems!
I've been organizing my plans to build my own and REALLY look forward to it! When going to buy the floor planks, I told the guy at Lowe's I was using it for a table and he said he did that all the time to build tables and then talked about legs--including simple hairpin legs. What do you guys think about adding those to the table? Seems a lot less expensive than extruded aluminum. My concern is where and how to attach them? Any pointers? Thanks!
My biggest concern would be the attachment mechanism but it would be fairly easy to bolt just about anything to the bottom of it as long as you used the slot to bolt down to. I am amazed at the strength and ease of removal and setup that the aluminum legs have. I drag our table all around the shop every time we video because the table is in one spot for games and another spot for video. The legs are build like a tank but I think there would be some other options that are not quite a durable but definitely adequate. Let us know what you learn as you try it out!!
Hi guys. Thanks for this video. I love your design and that you keep it simple. And thanks for the effort you put in the description, I like very much that you detail every parts you're telling us about and even linking them. Most channel don't bother. Keep up the good work.
And if anyone from Europe (France even better) knows where to buy those parts, please share. I have to convince my wife but I'd like to try building a table topper.
Thanks a bunch! It is the details that matter. Good luck on the convincing of the wife :)
great video AGAIN!
Thank you … you are kind!
Love your table videos. In Europe we have companies like „Item“ or „Bosch“ who have a complete sales range of these aluminium profiles.
Greets from Germany
Excellent … do you know if any of them have a roll in bracket? That is the one item that everyone in Europe seems to be looking for? If you can send me the right direction we would post it for others to see. Thanks for your comment.
@@The-Game-Garage I don't think they have a roll in bracket like the one you showed in your video. But they have a rebate profile up to 2m lenght which could do the job. Just cut and drill to your needs.
Greets
Vert interesting. Thanks!!
This has opened up a whole new rabbit hole for me when designing tables. How well does the dark metals hold up to wear and tear? If they get scratched does the shiny metal show through easily?
I have been really surprised by how well the black has helped. I believe it is anodized which I don’t pretend to understand what that means. What it feels like though is a color that is not like powder coated on or added on top. I play primarily on a black railed table right now and it is wearing really well.
@@The-Game-Garage I plan on trying to build a dining table this week and am going to test out using the extruded aluminum as the skirt of the table.
Hey guys, I’m inspired by your table. Thanks for introducing me to 8020! I went down the 8020 rabbit hole of watching videos. First question - is ordering from 8020 more expensive than Tnuts? Have you tried asking tnuts to Get you whatever you order from 8020? Second - Had an idea I thought I’d run by you. I totally trust the tape… BUT had an idea to use the slots on the inside to put in a bracket (probably not the roll in ones) and then put aluminum slats across like bed frames have. Some of the slats on 8020 are like $.19/ ft. Then the play surface can sit on top of the slats. The reason I wanted to do this over tape was it would work better with an idea I had for adding a leaf. Anyway, would love to hear your thoughts on the downsides to this. Keep making videos!
Tnutz has much less variety. What they do have is cheaper that 8020. I buy whatever I can from tnutz and the rest from 8020. Your idea would work but the depth of the vault would be less and the the tape adds some rigidity to everything. It is a curious thought and if you do it please send some pics of the process. Make sure you watch our second video on the table that deals with the leaf options and ways to connect everything. Our method of adding a leaf has no way to interlock the leaf with the two ends. I would also be tempted to look for a thrift store table with a leaf and then let the table be the base/floor and then just make an aluminum frame for the vault perimeter … so many ideas … so little time …
That washer fix on the roll-in tray is brilliant. It reminds me of the quarter Eddie Van Halen used as a spacer on his original Frankenstein guitar. If it’s good enough for EVH it’s good enough for me.
It’s the simple fixes that many times work best!
Have you tried to use the hinges on the legs and the table top together? It could maybe work like a decorators table, legs fold in and then fold in half for storage.
We have not tried that. I would be a little nervous about the ability of the leg to hold the 90 degree lock. The hinge is the easy part but the piece that holds it locked is the hard part. Right now it would be easier to just take the legs off and fold the table (with that special screw driver) than bolt on a 45 bracket going both directions for each leg. Knowing what I know of the hinge system I would not try it but I also know solving the locking 90 part may be solvable in a way I don’t know. There are so many options with this stuff that somebody else could easily come up with a good idea … would love to hear from anybody giving this configuration a whirl.
In Europe or wherever AliExpress is your friend. All those T profiles are available with a bunch of accesories.
Good to know!!
I’ve just ordered my parts . I’ve actually designed it so I have an 11inch ledge around the whole things to players have space for books and an area to roll dice . I actually have an area for the DM( me ) that is slightly lower than the players
Oooooohhh … some good variations there that I look forward to seeing in picture form. Send us a pic … would love to see it.
I know I'm a little late to the party but I'm wanting to make one of these for D&D as well! Do you mind sharing which parts you used to create the wider ledge around the table as well as the lower area for DMing?
I ordered the parts, and should be assembling my vault this weekend. I am sad there is no accessible gallery of what people have done so far. I am really looking accessories or combos. Looking for an additional video.
We put together a little store for the future and we put a few of the pics of some of the tables we have built and some of the pictures from others. It think we have the content for another accessories video but it may be a bit light on content. In the comments section we have heard of several ideas that I think would be cool but I have not yet seen pics that would give us proof of concept. I’m curious what you are looking for in a new video. Let us know what you would like to see more of.
@@The-Game-Garage The cupholder has already been demonstrated so thats a plus. I want to see if anybody has modified one end of the table to hold a Dungeon Master Screen, a laptop setup or maybe various uses of the underside t-bolt track for hanging items. I am building my table with the intention of running various RPGs .
Some excellent ideas. That wide tray that we put on the second video has a ton of possibilities. Those roll in brackets seem to be begging for several types of accessories and they charge so much for some of these parts I wonder is a 3D printer small business could get into some accessories that would use the t-slot or the roll in option. I’ll talk with a friend about that. One of the most intriguing ideas that a guy talked with me this summer about was a plexiglass floor to the vault which would allow him to put a TV under the table which would provide for maps etc for that type of gaming. The t slots allow for a ton of flexibility in holding the flat screen snugly to the plexi. Just another idea to get the wheel turning. Let us know if you create something.
Just found both of your videos on building a game table, do you have any advice on making a hexagon table?
We have worked on one and used a bracket that we got from Amazon that in my mind was going to be perfect. We bought an aluminum cutting blade for our chop saw and we use our first version at camp but it has some serious design flaws that revolve around the rigidity of the hex. I think there are a couple of possible fixes that revolve around more connection holes to create more that one bolt on each side of the bracket but we have not taken the time to try to fix it yet. It is on our list but we got distracted with a sliding/retractable tray table … I know … so easily distracted … but thats what we’ve got for now … a whole bunch of “That’s not gonna work”. Let me know if you figure anything out. We are interested!
I would really like to see how you’d go about making a hexagon table with a TV in it to display maps for playing TTRPGs or war games
I have a friend who is always wanting me to add a TV to the design but I am not as familiar with the functionality of how it is used. I need to do a bit of research. the Hexagon table that we have fits nicely on a 60 inch round plastic table. A portion of the corner hangs off and a small portion of the round of the table pokes out of the flat space. This allows the cup holders to work great but you do have a little ledge from the round of the table. It’s not perfectly slick but we have used the hexagon at every big gathering of players because of the 5ft across all around. It is perfect for the biggest of table hogs.
Are you going to do a video showing us the hex table you have?
Also I am an electrician and built a tv table (can send picture) with power points I can say the biggest issue you’ll face is cable management, in other words placement of power cables so they don’t interfere with data and HDMI cables for the tv.
We need to do another video on accessories and I think that hex table would be a good one to show. It takes a bit more tools because we use an aluminum blade on a chop saw to make the cuts and most people like our video because they are basically assembling their table and not building it out. We work with sound systems here at the camp so I know what you are talking about with wire management. We have so many videos we would like to make but this is still a hobby that is way down there on our priority list so I’m not sure what we will get done.
Covering the top of the rails with trim molding not only solves the cold metal feel problem but also the crumbs in the groove problem AND the problem of the rails looking odd because each one butts on one side. You can let the rails butt on one side so you still have a way to get sliding attachments in and out but make the molding on top butt on both ends.
EDIT: I found a 1/4" thick, 3" wide oak trim at Menards. That's a winner.
Of the several tables that we have we do it several different ways. It sounds like you have some good ideas there!
rubbing alcohol will soften the adhesive on your 2 way tape and make it alot easier to remove.
Thanks for the tip … I always resort to WD 40 when in doubt … hahaha
I would also love to see the pictures of results from the community. Is there a public album somewhere?
Also, where could the discussion about sourcing parts in Europe be found?
Thanks for the great ideas. There are so many possibilities :)
BGG has a decent forum of DIY tables that has some reviews that used this plan. I don’t know much about it. Bodie knows more about that. I don’t know of a forum or gathering of info on the European parts search. We have heard in a couple of comments that the UK may have found a supplier. You are right! There are so many possibilities.
Could I ask the dimensions of the add on (larger) tray for rules etc, as well as the smaller personal trays?
For the smaller trays we bought the mouse pad first and then made the tray with a one inch margin. 8x12 is a really nice size. The larger tray is the width of the short side of our table which is 42 inches by 10. We use a short tray and the long one if we are trying to make the table four x four. I am surprised how many times the long tray is used. We love it!!
I think what people were wondering is, what if you took the piece your using now and turn it on edge so the 3 inch dimension is your vault height and the 1.5 is the wall thickness.
Yes you can … I personally dont care for leaning on the 1.5 inch rail but some frame it on the interior to create 3 inch to lean on. I think this is just a personal preference thing.
I'd be interested to see if you've ever made any upgrade to use the top railing? Movable token tray or movable dice tray? It seems that you may favor the flat top to reduce the crumbs getting stuck everywhere? 😅
Sorry for the really late reply. I just made another vault and I used 1.5x1.5 rail with t-slot on three sides which gave me a solid top (for no crumbs) It is really slick. I’m also working on a wood rail 3 inch top and 1.5 inch inner frame giving me a wood feel on top and still have the t slot for the sides. We need to do another video on this design because I have liked it so far. Am still fiddling with some of the ways to attach the top wood railing. Have tried 3 or 4 but am not satisfied with any one design … yet.
have you guys added legs to any long tables? Hows was the "lean sag" in the middle? What I figure these are fine under their own weight, but wondered how much sag you would get on a 5 or 6' table, with a grognard putting some weight on the table towards the middle?
I don’t think you will have any issue with a 6 foot span and several folks leaning on it. I did not look up the actual specs but we have 6 foot tables that I am planning to put the legs on. I have not done it yet but I think it will work great. You also have the option of moving 6 or 12 inches in and putting the leg wherever you choose which would lessen the span. Also if you have an 8ft table and you want a center leg it would be easy to just add 2 more legs to the 4 you would normally have therefore cutting the spans in half.
Where do you find the roll in clips for the most used accessory?
It is a roll in panel bracket (item number 2488) from 80/20.net They sell it for about $6 in silver and $9 in black. I would order extra. I’m always amazed what I find to attach to them. They are the key component to the flexibility of the t slot aluminum.
How wide are the T-slots? I plan on Running LED and want to make sure I get the right strip for the job.
8020.net has great diagrams and spec sheets. We are using a 15 series profile and this link will hopefully get you to the specs of a basic 1.5x15 15 series profile. 8020.net/1515.html
What is the part number for the roll-in adapter that you use for your accessory tray?
2488 in silver and in black. Black is a couple bucks more per. This is from 8020
For the larger tables with legs, do you use any braces or any other supports to limit wobble in the table? Have you found it to be an issue at all?
No issue at all with the method that we shared. It is really strong and we have drug our table all around the shop. You will be amazed! I have not put one on a 6ft long table but if you were nervous a 5th and 6th leg on on the center of the one rail is an easy add but I really believe just one in each corner will suffice. Let me know what you thing if you do it.
@@The-Game-Garage Glad to hear! The table just needs the plastic strips to cover the gaps on the top as well as the metal pieces from 8020 for the cup holders. I'll send you a pic when it is all completed. Ill play a game and see what everyone thinks about the shake. (My kids like to come up and shake it but in practice during a game no one shakes it 😂.) I have to say im really impressed with the tape. It feels really solid. I did add an extra 1/2 inch piece of the tape on all of the tides just to give it a little extra support. Probably not necessary at all but there was space for it.
We will send some stickers! Kid proof table … we should add that to the description :). Yeah, the tape is the most often asked question and all we can do is share our experience. A new comment that adds weight to the “tape is really good” answer would be cool. You will love the cup holders. I wish someone would just sell those because we get requests to sell those as well. I probably would have added the extra 1/2 inch piece as well. Good call!
Well I got some corner braces and plates to bolster my shaky table. As I was installing all the improvements, I noted that I had installed all the nuts upside down in the t slots where the legs attached to the siderails😂. Well I flipped those nuts and added my extra support (which may have been completely unnecessary). Anyway the table does not shake and looks great. Thanks for the recommendation of how to build a DIY table! It is great. I'm not sure how to send you pics but let me know how and I will.
Any suggestions to mount the table panel to the underside with fasteners rather than adhesive? Some various T slot manufacturers have panel mounting options, but none seem to have the nice under-rail fit that your adhesive option has.
Our first ever table we used a piece of mdf that was very heavy and then drilled 5/16 holes that then we counter sunk a bolt into it and then it connected to a nut in the t-slot. It worked but it was a pain. A friend told me about the tape that they were using on large glass and we that is the last time I have attached the table using bolts. If it was a permanent table then drilling and bolting would work fine but one of our goals was a removeable topper so we never experimented. If I were going to experiment again I would use another piece of rail the length of the short end and with one on each end I could try to manufacture a type of clamp that would hold the floor to the frame of the vault. I think a secondary frame of wood or metal could be built be I have no experience with it.
So now that you've had the legs installed for a bit, how do you like them? Noticeable improvement over the card table you were using? Sturdy enough?
Just played a 5 person game around the table with the new legs that required a lot of leaning to the middle to get cards. It wasn’t a game of spoons or Dutch blitz but it put the table through its paces. I really like it. Legs are in the absolute corner which with a 3x4 table means that nobody is running into the leg. I actually like the fact that there is not a center column like we have with the dining room table. We reoriented the table by picking up one end and pulling it around. No problem at all with stability. I do think that the 1/4 inch hex driver that looks like a classic screw driver is a must have tool. I did not have one for the video (it came in a day or so late) but using it to tighten things up is really easy and fast. The improvement over the card table is much bigger than I expected. The crew I was playing with noticed it. They have played both ways and they also liked the look of it. I highly recommend it. I believe it will take me about 5 minutes to remove the legs and about 8 minutes to attach them. I’m going to try to loosen both assemblies and then slide them off with the nut still attached. If you have a big table (6ft or longer) I think the four legs make that table amazing.
@@The-Game-Garage awesome thanks for the reply, just what I wanted to hear. I've already got my legs on the way from tnutz. My table topper is 4x4 so I had it on 2 4x2 card tables so the legs were definitely in the way. Love the channel, you guys are awesome!
Thanks a bunch! Kind words!
@@The-Game-Garage have you guys thought of doing a hexagon or octagon shaped table? There's gotta be some kind of 120 or 135 degree angle bracket to help facilitate that.
Ohhh yeah!!! From amazon there is a 135 degree 40 series metal bracket that we have attempted to work with. My first effort was an octagon that sits on a 60 inch round table with a yoga mat as the game mat. It worked for the camp we did and was a well used table. We did a wood insert 1.5 inches and had an aluminum piece 1.5 inches wide. Attaching those together and using the brackets made for a wobbly finished product … not one of our better builds. It has promise but our first prototype will not pass for a finished product. I need to play around with it.
For the tables that are going to have permanent legs, one possibility would be to have sides butt up against the legs themselves. his would add about 1.5 inches to the legs, but the overall look would be much nicer. All I need to do now is to figure out how to do it this way and bottom at the same time. I might have to apply the floor "upside down" to the "top" and once it is set, loosen the legs and slide them to the other end.
Now that I am thinking this over, what are the advantages you see for using the 1530 over the 1515? if I do the 1530, I'll have to use 3030 for the legs, or figure out how to butt a 3030 to a 1515 end to end.
Hmmmm … you’ve got some thinking to do. One of my favorite tables was an early model that is built out of 1515 and then has an insert made of wood with the bottom screwed to the wood. It has the 1515 as the outside frame and the wooden one for the inside frame. It is the lightest table I have and one of the first ones I take if my game group is 3 or 4 and it fits on a card table perfect.
I honestly had not thought of a side mount for the leg. That is interesting partly because you would have other connection points for accessories or extended legs on one end for DM stuff. The 1515 is plenty strong for any of the leg work. I think the 3030 everywhere would be aesthetically pleasing.
Could you guys please do a follow up about that table at 34:00. I really love this concept but my ideal table would have the 45 degree miter to make the top lines make a continuous square. Is that something the manufacturer can do or is that something you did? How does the fastening system work? Would the light strip on the internal insert still work the same way?
I knew adding that little tidbit would make some one say … ohhhhhh … I like that!. This was a table that we made before knowing about the tape and before we ordered wider rails … it was an early effort. The 45 miter cut is something that tnutz will do on a 1.5x1.5 inch piece of 15 series extrusion. It is at the end of their machining options and you will want to choose the “45 miter cut with counterbore and mounting hardware” for $5 on each end. Then you don’t need any braces. It cost $40 more dollars for all the custom miter on both ends of 4 rails but it is a really clean look. Next we order it with the 1.5x3 inch 15 series rails and they mitered it on the 1.5 side of the rail and not the 3 inch side of the rail. I never called them to see if I could get the miter to look like a frame instead of way it was done. That little snafu made me avoid the 45 miter for the next several vaults but now I am tempted to go back to the counterbore 45 miter. I understand it a bit better now. We can add that table to a part 3 list of details we need to show better. If my memory is correct the hardest part of this set up was the blind connection of the inside wood frame to the outside metal frame. We countersunk a bolt that connected to a t slot nut. You will see the four bolts on the interior of the vault. I highly recommend this type of build if the two tone rail top does not bother you.
@@The-Game-Garage Thank you for the response. My ideal would be having the cut on the 1.5X3 on the 3 inch side that way they double top stripe makes a continuous square and the plastic inserts can be cut to fit to make a decorative double stripe. I will have to get in contact with them to see if that is something they would do. When I play games its usually with 8-10 people so I am trying to think carefully before any purchase because it will be a gaming coffee table, and it will be massive.
Would the lighting strip on the interior work the same way or is how the 45 degree miter fastened together get in the way of the corners?
Yes the lighting strip would work best on this style. The inside t slot is totally clear all the way around. And yes I agree with your desire to have the 45 on the 3 inch side but I don’t know if they do that. I would guess an email to them may find out how to ask for that. I would imagine they are capable but I don’t know how to ask for it. I would be interested in anything that you learn about this.
@@The-Game-Garage To follow up I did order the 1.5 x 3 extrusions with the 45 degree miter cuts on the 3 inch side. To do so at check out you need to write in the little box that you want the miter cuts on the 3 inch side. The question I have for you with your table that has the 45 cuts is did the mounting hardware they sent you work to attach the 90 degree corners or did you fasten it with something else? The hardware they sent me seems to be for attaching the 45 degree cut to a t-slot and not for joining the two cuts to make a 90 degree corner.
Ohhhh boy … this was a long time ago. I don’t remember very clearly. It seems that what they sent me was what I used mostly but I seem to vaguely remember having to add a washer or a longer bolt or something. When I look at it now it all looks like standard stuff but I can’t remember what it was. It attaches to the outside corner of the 45 so I don’t think it would matter where it was 1.5 inches wide or 3 inches wide … they would send the same connector … I am very glad to hear how to make the 45 cut. I now need to save pennies to order another set of rails :)
Do you glue the mouse pads down with contact glue or do you like being able to remove them
A great question … they are loose right now. There are times where I want to have something that holds them down but they get the brunt of the mess of the table so they are always needed to be be cleaned/replaced/crum removal/etc. Now I treat them like a game mat and they come placed on the table when needed.
@@The-Game-Garage that makes a lot of sense thank you for you feedback
You are welcome!
What size plywood did you use on your 3x3?
*thickness
3/8 … so it doesn’t get too heavy
Did you guys make the table with a leaf? If so how did it work?
We have not finished that project completely. The hardware part worked perfectly but I have not actually put the leaf together with the tape. I have it all set to go in the garage and have seemed to get distracted by too many other priorities. Hopefully will finish it this fall and use it at our camp’s Tabletopia event. I am 95% sure that it will all work. Maybe we can post up some pics when we finish.
That would be awesome. I’m wondering how the support for the floor of the vault will be
That is a concern. I have used my table for the past 3 months in the garage with just the tape holding. It is not as big as the vault and it was installed a year ago but there was no failure but it still concerns me. I’ve thought about a 1x4 that I bolt to the t slot on all four sides but so far it has worked perfectly. That tape has continued to be the surprise of the project. Didn’t think it would perform but so far I am amazed. We should get a sponsorship from them :)
How much does a table like this run?
I have not looked at the prices recently … I’m guessing it is getting closer to $450-$500 but I am not sure. Depends on what you get for a mat
Which one exactly was the "Don't do" tip? Putting the floor of the vault in the center rail of the extrusion as opposed to taping it to the bottom?
Yes, many people have asked about just setting the floor in the side facing t slot. In our minds not a good idea. The stability of the counterbore assemblies might make me change my mind on the stability issue. The second reason I don’t like the idea is because of how shallow it makes the vault. If you want a shallow vault then you may give this a whirl. If you do this and you don’t like it you have plenty of ability to keep the rails and rework the floor a different way. I wouldn’t be surprised if someone builds on that they really like that doesn’t use our advice (In fact sometimes that is the challenge that some people need to go figure it out and do it). Tape has worked great but I understand everyone’s concern. All I know is my own limited experience. If I were building a puzzle table I am trying to figure out a shallow vault option. Hope that is clear … I think I’m rambling.
80/20 doesn't ship to Canada. Is there an alternative way to get the Roll in panel mounts? I wasn't able to fnid them so far
We do not know of a supplier other than 80/20. Europe has also been searching. The only thing we have heard of is shipping to a friend who ships to you. And occasionally eBay has roll in that somebody is selling. Let us know if you find anything. We will add link to description
Just spit balling here, for the "Don't Do", what if one would use 3030 or 1530, and used the 2nd slot for the floor?
I think the 3030 (3 inches square) would be a really interesting option. If you used custom legs to keep the table height back to normal I think it could work. When we were first doing tables they always sat on top of another table. Put a 4x4 on a table and that will be the basic height of your vault. Put a 2x4 laying flat and that is the height of 15/30 lay8ng flat. If the 1530 is standing vertical then you just have an 1.5 inches to rest your arms on. To simulate that would be like using the 2x4 standing the on short edge. Comfort of tallness and width is why we always laid the 1530 on it side … but a 3030 with shorter legs to account for bigger piece would be very interesting. Make sure your floor is as thick and strong as you can find because it is just placed in the track it is just free floating and is not adding any bracing to to the overall structure. It will be easier for the floor to sag. We’ve never done it partly because the 3030 is a bit more money but it does intrigue me. Let us know if you attempt the build. Would love to hear what you learn.
Have you determined a way to hide the base/floor material when looking at the table from the side?
I cut my material about 3/4 of a inch shorter than each side. That means you don’t see the floor as it does not come flush to the end. I wanted to use the wide flat spot of the rail for the tape but I did not need it to go all the way to the edge. You would have to be down at vault level to see the side of floor edge. I think a fiberglass 1/2 inch quarter round in the trim section of Home Depot would be another way of covering that edge. You would want to make sure that the floor came far enough out that you quarter round had something to glue to. You could also pin nail it to the edge of the floor. I have never done that but it should work.
@@The-Game-Garage thanks that's a good idea! I also found some Series 10 extrusion that is only .75" thick that I think I am going to use as cross bracing for the floor in three areas (play area is going to be 3.5' by 5.5'). Also, did you account for the thickness of the end caps (3/16”) when designing the frame to ensure flush outer edge all the way around?
I used corner brackets that slide in and allowed setting them in any location to allow for flush. I measured exactly the size of the mat and added 3 inches for the rails and then the end cap added about an eighth of an inch which kinda became the margin around the mat on the inside of the table. That is a great question. Soooo … if your are trying to make the mat fit tight then you need to adjust by an 1/8 of an inch.
What was your typical turnaround on your recent orders from Tnutz?
Why not put the hinge on the bottom of the joint? This might beg for something that fits over it to deal with sharp edges, but that should be doable...
And your "roll-in" table, I'd think two of the joint-parts would make it likely much much more stable feeling. Probably not needed, but betting it would work better.
As to the "deeper vault" -- rotate the 8020 90 degrees, so it is vertical rather than horizontal. Then put a wooden (possibly with some padding) top onto it to give it "depth" as the place to rest your arms.. Then you have the lower rail opening for anything that needs extra space for the roll-in component. This could also allow you to set-in the board surface into the rail, while still keeping most of the depth... Yes, this is probably more suitable for a fixed table rather than a removable one. ;-)
Several have mention the in slot option for the 3 inch deep vault. I have yet to see a picture of it but I think it is worth trying. You will need to add the extra support at each corner since the tape is not giving any stability to the table. The hinge on the bottom side is a definite possibility. I was after the feeling of briefcase that I could keep mats and accessories inside of but that meant having a seen hinge instead of hidden on the bottom side. Also if on the bottom you have to deal with how flat it is sitting on your table or if it is hanging over enough to not be an issue … so many possibilities!
Now how would you add a 40 in tv in the middle??
I have never done it so I am just spitballing here … I would make a a plexiglass floor to the vault and then bolt on two 1.5x1.5 rails to the long end and then a couple of short rails to make a frame that is big enough to hold the TV. The frame would almost act like a nest to hold the TV facing upward and then I would figure out the correct spacers necessary to hold the tv up against the plexiglass and then bolt it up to the vault frame … it seems easy in my head but because I’ve never done it I have no idea what problems I would encounter … would love to hear from you if you try it.
The hinge goes on the underside of the table!
Did you make one that way?? I’d love to see pics. When I did it I had to put them on top because of the floor taped on stuck out to far. I would guess there is a way to get around that but I did not solve that.
@@The-Game-Garage Maybe the tape does not need to put on where the hinge is, kind of like the gap for legs?
This is an interesting dilemma that I did not put much think time into. Ill bet if the spacing were right then placing the hinges on top of the tape and floor would work with a longer bolt. I was so intent on making a briefcase for travel that i did not go down the road you propose. I may try it with one of our already built table …. Hmmmm …
Love your guys' work! My question is now that you have the legs on, there is no card table supporting the bottom of the table. It is just the tape holding up all of the floor planks as well as whatever game and stuff is on the table. Is the tape strong enough? Have you tried adding enough wait to the legged table so that the bottom does fall out?
Excellent question!! The one that we set up for the video has been sitting in the garage since we built it. No issues so far but I do see the concern that you have. Would wonder about a secondary bolt that goes into a nut on the underside t-slot. We have put maybe 8-10 hours of game play on the new leg version table. Really like it. I’ll keep an eye on the floor for separation or issues … so far none.
This dude needed a level for that angle? Ahahahaha
:)
Wait, why aren't the legs also the corners so you don't have to overlap the extruded aluminum at the corners?
Instead of this:
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Like this:
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where the square bracket is the leg and the end of the leg is flush with the top of the horizontal bars.
I think you can do it any way that you get it milled. The milling is the key to get them to put it in the right spot (however you want to attach it.