Take a bar of soap, rub it on the area to be heated. When the soap mark turns black, it's at the correct temperature to be reshaped, without risk of it cracking.
No problem I watch some of your SCMM stuff and Bronco's along with about 15 other people so I know how you can feel like you fall behind. Please don't feel you have to comment on every video I know how busy you can get and I'd hate it to cut into your riding time ;-)
Sorry that happened with the bike...Glad that damage was minimal. Great thing to have a vice at home! And a good solid one like this one! Yep...Oxy...Acetylene torch would cut (melt) this pedal like butter. Awesome job!!!
Thanks the hardest thing to fix was the bar end weight it was bent inside the handle bar and took a lot of different tools and 4 letter words before I could get it out. Surprisingly with them no longer there I don't feel any vibration so I don't know why they were there in the 1st place.
wow bent inside the bar!?! that's odd, I bet it did take a lot of getting out as they are a pain to get out when not all bent up, well done on getting it out! Funny that the vibration has gone now though, I've been playing with the idea of fitting some heavy weights in mine as I get a lot of vibs off of mine :/
The right Bar end clipped the edge of the side walk so very little of the bike was on the ground. The end of it was bent 30 degree and the end screw wouldn't come out. So I had to finally drill the screw out then get some vise grips on the bar end and whack it with a very large hammer to get it off the rest of the screw inside.
On the vibration my RC51 never had any I was just surprised when I was on it this week with out the bar end weights and dampeners there still was no vibration. It makes me wonder what all that crap was doing in there. Its not like my bike needed any extra weight (Some people call RC51's "Thunder Pig" lol)
Wouldnt it be better if you had more distance from the point you are heating to the wise. This way I guess a lot of the heat will dissipate into the wise.
We learned from racing that Japanese motorcycles (Suzuki is the worst) use a lower grade of Aluminum for cast parts, so you have to work it slow or it will crack. The angle from the camera is not the best to show it but The hot part has the Tip of the "blue flame" just touching the part where it has to be bent so most of the heat is going there. The vise will get warm too over time but not enough to effect the heating of the part.
The exact same thing happened to me on my SP2, Now I watch my temp gauge until it reads 97 and even after that I'm wary until I've been moving for a bit.
I had a little spill and bent the pedal inward. I tried to bend it outward but the pedal shaft is too thick. The OEM shop manual says to remove the foot peg bracket assembly but gives no other info not even torque numbers.
I had my RC51 fall off my rear stand this June and it bent the brake pedal in 2 directions so I ordered a new one from Partzilla. As for the Torque numbers, if your go the the front of the book there will be standard numbers for generic nuts and bolts just look up what the spec is for a (8mm if that what size it is) They tend to only list torque numbers for special / important parts. You have to remember is these book were written for bike mechanics who would know most of these number off the top of their heads since the work on bike 5 days a week ;-)
@@DeathsStalkerRVT I called Ron Ayers. They've been my go to parts store for years. They couldn't find torque specs doe the foot peg assembly either. They advised since it holds the peg and does nothing else it won't have torque specs. They said to snug up the Allen bolts and turn 1/8. And to put loc tite blue if I wanted.
Shit man that sucks and glad your ok. I feel your pain dropped mine twice in a season, oil on the road and then my own stupidity. Good thing I work for Honda of Canada....lol. Hey where did you get your pegs?
Thanks I can't remember where I got them from but I just found them on this site. I got them because the would work with the stock mounts etc and came in several colours www.outlawracingproducts.com/ouraspfore.html
is this the same as for aluminum billet??? i dropped my bike on the right side now my father and i are arguing if press alone will do or with heat.. i told him heat will make it easier to work with and avoiding the risk of breaking it.. i hope i was right about that
A press may work but was was shown when I was racing to fix bent parts this way. We did it all the time with levers and brackets. Aluminum one downside is it can be a bit brittle so if it's over worked it can crack and or break.
Take a bar of soap, rub it on the area to be heated.
When the soap mark turns black, it's at the correct temperature to be reshaped, without risk of it cracking.
So glad you're okay & the baby has minimal damage. I haven't had time to comment on everything Deaths ❤️
No problem I watch some of your SCMM stuff and Bronco's along with about 15 other people so I know how you can feel like you fall behind. Please don't feel you have to comment on every video I know how busy you can get and I'd hate it to cut into your riding time ;-)
Sorry that happened with the bike...Glad that damage was minimal.
Great thing to have a vice at home! And a good solid one like this one!
Yep...Oxy...Acetylene torch would cut (melt) this pedal like butter.
Awesome job!!!
It was an unfortunate incident but glad to see she's all fixed up!
Great job. Aluminium alloys can be really difficult, heat is the key and making sure it's hard again with annealing and work hardening etc!
And that's how you do it. I dropped my bike last year, just like you did. I was lucky though, because nothing was bent.
Nice work! A lot easier to fix the bike than to fix you!
Thanks unfortunately I had a lot of practice straightening my Race bike levers and pedals and many, many dirt bike stuff.
Nice job, glad there's not to much damage and your ok 🙂
Thanks the hardest thing to fix was the bar end weight it was bent inside the handle bar and took a lot of different tools and 4 letter words before I could get it out. Surprisingly with them no longer there I don't feel any vibration so I don't know why they were there in the 1st place.
wow bent inside the bar!?! that's odd, I bet it did take a lot of getting out as they are a pain to get out when not all bent up, well done on getting it out! Funny that the vibration has gone now though, I've been playing with the idea of fitting some heavy weights in mine as I get a lot of vibs off of mine :/
The right Bar end clipped the edge of the side walk so very little of the bike was on the ground. The end of it was bent 30 degree and the end screw wouldn't come out. So I had to finally drill the screw out then get some vise grips on the bar end and whack it with a very large hammer to get it off the rest of the screw inside.
On the vibration my RC51 never had any I was just surprised when I was on it this week with out the bar end weights and dampeners there still was no vibration. It makes me wonder what all that crap was doing in there. Its not like my bike needed any extra weight (Some people call RC51's "Thunder Pig" lol)
DeathsStalkerRVT I love my Thunder Pig.
Very well done
Thanks
Wouldnt it be better if you had more distance from the point you are heating to the wise. This way I guess a lot of the heat will dissipate into the wise.
We learned from racing that Japanese motorcycles (Suzuki is the worst) use a lower grade of Aluminum for cast parts, so you have to work it slow or it will crack. The angle from the camera is not the best to show it but The hot part has the Tip of the "blue flame" just touching the part where it has to be bent so most of the heat is going there. The vise will get warm too over time but not enough to effect the heating of the part.
The exact same thing happened to me on my SP2, Now I watch my temp gauge until it reads 97 and even after that I'm wary until I've been moving for a bit.
I had a little spill and bent the pedal inward. I tried to bend it outward but the pedal shaft is too thick.
The OEM shop manual says to remove the foot peg bracket assembly but gives no other info not even torque numbers.
I had my RC51 fall off my rear stand this June and it bent the brake pedal in 2 directions so I ordered a new one from Partzilla. As for the Torque numbers, if your go the the front of the book there will be standard numbers for generic nuts and bolts just look up what the spec is for a (8mm if that what size it is) They tend to only list torque numbers for special / important parts. You have to remember is these book were written for bike mechanics who would know most of these number off the top of their heads since the work on bike 5 days a week ;-)
@@DeathsStalkerRVT I called Ron Ayers. They've been my go to parts store for years. They couldn't find torque specs doe the foot peg assembly either. They advised since it holds the peg and does nothing else it won't have torque specs. They said to snug up the Allen bolts and turn 1/8. And to put loc tite blue if I wanted.
Shit man that sucks and glad your ok. I feel your pain dropped mine twice in a season, oil on the road and then my own stupidity. Good thing I work for Honda of Canada....lol. Hey where did you get your pegs?
Thanks I can't remember where I got them from but I just found them on this site. I got them because the would work with the stock mounts etc and came in several colours
www.outlawracingproducts.com/ouraspfore.html
I liked them because they have a nice flat surface that's not too aggressive
DeathsStalkerRVT Yeah that's my issue sore feet after 4 hour rides 😜
My Sergent seat helps but I'm only good for about 2 hours or 1 tank of fuel. Too many 250GP bike crashes back in the 80's / 90's
is this the same as for aluminum billet??? i dropped my bike on the right side now my father and i are arguing if press alone will do or with heat.. i told him heat will make it easier to work with and avoiding the risk of breaking it.. i hope i was right about that
A press may work but was was shown when I was racing to fix bent parts this way. We did it all the time with levers and brackets. Aluminum one downside is it can be a bit brittle so if it's over worked it can crack and or break.