Good video, While you have the pump off check your backer plate screws too, I had 3 of the 5 loose on mine and it pushed the seal out of the oil pump, the other two were tight and would’t budge, I cleaned all the oil off the threads and put on some blue loctite. I’ve heard of people having the same loose screws and the seal push out or getting low oil pressure from that issue. I’m glad I did that instead of finding out a few miles down the road that I missed something.
Are the backer plate screws the 5 big Phillips head screws on the back of the oil pump itself that are seen at 1:27 in this video? If those are the screws you're referring to, would you also use the blue loctite on a new oil pump? Does a new crank seal come with a new oil pump or does that need to be purchased separately? Last, buying an oil pump from Subaru itself is very expensive. I searched around different genuine Subaru Parts dealers online and even with the lowest price I could find it's more than twice the price of most aftermarket oil pumps. My water pump is shot so when I replace it I'll also be installing a new timing belt kit and I thought I would also replace the oil pump while I have everything apart. I'm choosing an AISEN Timing Belt Kit w Water Pump because my understanding is that AISEN manufactures the OEM parts for Subaru so they are identical to the OEM Subaru branded parts but much less expensive. I learned this from another MrSubaru video. I trust him because I've found his advice to be very dependable over the past few years that I've been watching his videos. I've sent him messages in other videos asking which oil pump the would recommend but he doesn't respond. I'm guessing that he gets so many questions that he doesn't respond to his older videos anymore. Can you recommend an quality aftermarket oil pump that I wont have to replace in two years? All this is for my 2005 Subaru Baja (SOHC).
i found a cool trick. to take the sprocket off easily. I threaded the two holes with an m7x 1.25 no drilling was required. Then I used a slide hammer with a plate bolted to the sprocket and it came off with one light pull
Where do you get the small side seals? I can find genuine kits that have the crank seal and the o-ring, but can't for the life of my find those little side seals. Thank you for these AMAZING videos. Really really helpful.
A few more questions before I can finally button-up the front end of my '11 OB 2.5 CVT : 1.) Should I drain the engine oil out before pulling my oil pump, or just add back any engine oil that was lost when I pulled the pump? 2.) I did my cam seals also. Should I also coat the cam bolts in a thin layer of oil (just like the crank bolt) before re-installing, or is that not necessary? Do these bolts need any Blue LocTite? 3.) When priming the Oil Pump, do you disable the fuel pump by pulling the fuse for it? Regarding the coil packs, just unplug the wiring harness to each of my 4 coil packs where they connect to the plugs? 4.) My radiator is empty now, and I will be adding the Subaru Coolant Conditioner upon filling it up. Since I assume I would be "priming" the oil pump first, will that process negatively affect my ability to subsequently purge the coolant system of air pockets, which I would be doing at first start-up? *** Sorry for all of the rookie questions, I hope this helps someone else, Thanks Again as always for your time, patience, and knowledge :)
1) No need to drain the oil. Minimum amount will be lost. 2) Cam bolts go in dry. No oil. No loctite. 3) Pull the fuel pump fuse and unplug the coil pack connectors. 4) Cranking to prime the oil pump has no affect on the cooling system.
Do you think 180k mileage is an automatic reason to just get a NEW oil pump since I'm already in that deep? I think I've read that they are believed to possibly go over 300k, due to being centrally lubricated like they are (as long as the o-ring is good and screws are tight). ** Thanks for everything !!!!
I think my oil leak is coming from the oil pump seal. I leak oil onto my exhaust and there’s always two little puddles under the engine. I hope it’s not the crank case but I’m pretty sure it isn’t. I changed my pcv valve yesterday and it was clogged with oil as well. Cleaned the gunk out of the lines while I was at it
I’m dealing with that right now, what I found was the screws for the backer plate on the back of the oil pump came loose and pushed the seal out, so while I had the oil pump off I took the loose screws out, cleaned all the oil with solvent, and applied blue loctite to them. I found scouring the forums that it is fairly common, 3 of the 5 were loose
to give an alternate opinion, if you have a high mileage motor, your camshaft sprocket bolts can be extremely difficult to remove, and if they arent leaking, it might not be worth the effort of trying to get the cam sprockets off to replace the seals but yes, like mrsubaru says, it is cheap insurance if you can get those cam gears off!
Just had a question regarding which rtv you used. I've seen you and some other web pages and videos shown to use a red rtv for the oil pump rather than ultra gray. I used ultra gray on my oil pan recently and worked out great. I see in your video for the pump you use it too but just wanted to double check on that. I also didn't use any silicone on my water pump, i just used an oem subaru water pump gasket, do you think that is ok?
Discovered an oil leak today from the bottom of my center timing cover. Do you think it's most likely oil pump seals? Would the entire timing kit need to be replaced or just the belt? Shop did the timing kit 7k miles ago, wish they would have thought to address this while they were in there.
Hey @MrSubaru1387, just wondering if you could share the part number for the side oil pump seals? I was able to find the part number for the crankshaft seal and the interior o-ring but not the side ones. Are they safe to reuse?
They come in the master engine reseal kits. I have no idea on their individual part numbers. Sorry. Best bet is calling your Subaru dealerships parts department.
@MrSubaru1387. do you have to remove the engine to do this repair> I dont have the means to pull an engine ,and cant afford to go to a mechanic shop. and have no mechanic buddys in my town so I have to do it all on my own and learn as I go. my fam. says I should just scrap my 97 impreza out back, but I lke it to much.
@@MrSubaru1387 plus finding parts is hard in Nevada lol and expensive I have the 97' impreza outback sport flat 4 2.2 is there any of its sister models outbacks,foresters,ect that I can scavenge parts from for mine? if so which models and years. =)
Great video, thanks. I've seen /heard other Subaru mechanics suggest that the oil pump Phillips screws be removed and reinstalled with thread locker since they have a tendency to loosen and create a oil leak. What are your thoughts?
I just bought a new pump and put blue threadlocker on the screws. Tomorrow I find out if the ones in my old pump were loose. I'm having a flickering pressure light at idle.
Hey Mr.Subaru, if my motor is still in the vehicle, do I need to "loosen the relief valve plug before removing the oil pump" like the FSM states ? It appears in this video that your motor is already out of the vehicle. Not sure of the reasoning for this (pressurized?) Also, what is the best way to "prime" the oil pump prior to starting the vehicle? Thanks, this is a good video !!
I've never removed the relief valve prior to removing the pump. To prime, disable the fuel pump and coil(s) and crank the engine. Do so for no longer than 10-15 seconds at a time. Crank about 3 times, or until the oil pressure light goes out.
Thanks for always answering mine (and everyone else's) questions so courteously, promptly, and thoroughly. I just sent you some PayPal funds, not much, but wanted to show my gratitude. Thanks again for the quality videos, and the excellent advice in the comments posted !!!
How do you prime one of these?? Is it good on start up when you clear the ECU and it takes about 5 seconds to start? Will that be enough to prime the oil pump??
I disable the fuel and ignition system on new engine builds. I crank the engine several times for about 15 to 20 seconds, until the oil light goes out.
So it like a rebuild or did u get a new pump. I have 189k got it used, and rebuilting the motor now. I see there a high flow one also. Do these pumps give out? The first type of motor for me. Thank u.
Dealer told me I need a new oil pump, because I have a leak. from your video sometimes, it's just the seal that needs to be replaced. How do you know when it's time for a new pump?
Uh oh, looks like my oil pressure light is flickering when I brake. Just replaced the oil and oil pressure sensor. The only other thing to eliminate is a corroded wire, otherwise, it looks like I will have this project on my hands this weekend. I replaced the timing belt/water pump last year, so I am fairly confident and familiar with the removal process. This time I have better tools, so hopefully, it will go faster (Milwaukee ratchet for the cover!) My question is what are the necessary timing components that I will need to remove? I assume, the last pully you put on and the tensioner at minimum. Should I just be ready to remove everything?
You need to pull the tensioner, belt, and the crank sprocket. Yeah, somewhat common issue is that the oil pump screw inside the pump back out over time and allow internal pressure leaks.
@@MrSubaru1387 uh oh... I replaced the oil pump and sensor and the light continues to flicker at low rpm. But then occasionally it doesn't happen. Any other problems with investigating? I'm at my limit with how much more work I want to do on this damn thing...
Thanks for the video, just one thing that I noticed. When you installed the oil pump, the side seals looked like they were missing... Was that intentional? Also, what do those side seals actually do, since it looks like the gasket maker should seal the whole thing...
is it required to put silicone/grey on the 3 left hand bolts, on the threads, you didn't do it here, which makes me believe its not required. enjoy your videos
I just had my shortblock replaced in my 2011 subaru forester xt with 116,000 kms. One day after getting it back the red oil pressure light turned on about 20 seconds after i turned it on and began driving.. I immediately stopped, turned off the vehicle and checked oil levels after it was off for several minutes. Levels were not low at all. I then noticed a small oil leak under the passenger side of the car. Despite the leak a few days later the oil level is still good. I called the shop and cannot get the car back in until next week due to christmas holidays. I am not driving the vehicle at all. It is turned off and parked in my driveway. I am afraid to start it to see if the oil light has turned off. Any ideas or advice? Bad oil pump? Bad sensor?
Do they sell new side seals? I can't find any part numbers. If they don't can rtv be used to seal it up? I think I've lost one of the 2. Do I need to buy a new oil pump that has new side seals? You are great at teaching. Did a timing belt 3 years ago with your help 98 dohc forester. Be well.
Hey mate I'm getting two different part numbers for the o ring at 3:12, can you confirm is it the one you have in the video or the generic blue o ring with no lip?
I had the same problem - it would make it almost off then stick - maybe on the woodruff key? I fussed with it and it suddenly came off easily. Maybe some oil on the woodruff key might have helped. Also, keep any pry tool away from the teeth on the pulley - only pry the solid pieces. I learned they break easily - one little tooth and $38 at the dealer for a new crank pulley.
I have an EJ253 2.5L legacy with 177k, if I let the car sit for 2 or 3 days and crank the engine over I have been getting a rattling sound from the engine sounding like it's dry. After initial start up rattling goes away. I also noticed the oil light flickering at initial start up and then turning off. would these be signs of oil pump going out? I was planning on doing a timing belt replacement and addressing it if necessary. Thanks for any feedback
When I resealed my oil pump about half a year ago I actually put RTV around that entire o ring circle area. Haven’t had any issues so far but I’ve been paranoid about it since I realized everyone else seems to only put RTV along the bottom side of the circle. You think this is going to cause issues?
@@MrSubaru1387 I read this 10 minutes late. Just put it on with no loctite. I was about to say that 58 in-lbs felt too loose but I'm guessing the loctite is very important. Should I let it sit overnight, back out the 7 screws and add loctite?
Hi mate , great video. I would like to ask you a question regarding oil pumps. Can I run a 12mm oil pump on stock ej255 instead of the 10mm? Any steps/tips that I have to take into consideration before install a 12mm pump? Thanks in advance
is it worth it to change the oem oil pump i dont want to spend the money if i don have to i was going to pull it to thread lock the phillips screws but not sure if its worth it to replace im just a ls guy flipping cars
I'm curious why you pulled the woodruff key? What year EJ is this? I've done this job on a 2011 EJ253 and a 1999 and neither required it nor is it called out in the FSMs I have for those cars.
I don't know shit about subaru engines but because pump is mechanical I'm gonna guess your gonna want to pull the fuel pump fuse and letting the car gain a little movement through the starter. Just a guess tho.
Hi Rob, I see a small oil leak coming through timing cover right under crank and oil pump location on my 2001 RS how would I determine if I need a new oil pump or just the crank seals? Don't want to buy an oil pump if all that is needed are seals. Thanks!
Im having trouble separating the pump from the block, I have no prying points to work from like you have in the vid. and its like someone put it on with liquid steel instead of gasket maker
+Scott Bryant from what I'm seeing, the side seals come with the pump. I can find p/n for the bolts, o-ring, and pump, but not the seals either. I bought a master engine seal kit, the side seals where in that kit. The kit comes with all the seals loose in a box, so no p/n unfortunately. Sorry.
+Scott Bryant it should be fine. All the seals on the sides of the pump do are seal the tiny gaps for the timing area. It's such a small gap that leaving them completely out probably wouldn't even have any negative impact.
is it good to put oil on the seal before you tap into place? i was told never go in dry...ha. also can I leave the woodruff key on or does it get in the way. thanks
My woodruff key is stuck... tried to pry it, tap it with a screwdriver, vice grips (started to mar it...). Do you have any suggestions for a stuck woodruff key and how important is it that the key not be marred (in other words, use a new woodruff key makes sense...). Thanks!
Why were you removing it? Yea, you want to replace it with new if it is damaged. I've seen jumped timing and destroyed engines from a damaged keyway. They can break and allow the crank and cams to get out of sync.
It is not damaged much, just a slight mar from the vice grips...just ordered a new woodruff key. It is still in there though. Yours came out pretty easy in this video.
You pried the one out in your video, versus tapping one side of trying to get the half moon shape to rotate out? I may try to heat the crankshaft slightly with a torch to see if that helps. This is on a new engine (replacement) where they did not replace the oil pump after a bearing failure (argh..). It only has 20 miles on it, so not sure why the woodruff key is in there so good -- they had to have pulled it out just recently.
+Nhu Bui times to reseal the oil pump is if you have a leak between the oil pump and block, replace the oil pump would be if you oil pressure is low consistently. To measure oil pressure, you would need to remove the oil pressure sensor and put a test gauge in its place.
This might not get seen but my jdm BH5 wagons year 2000 auto one manual bot have no oil pressure gauge,why this is so important, my manual makes a gargling noise when first started cold goes away pretty fast but sounds like metal on metal was told it's the oil pump on its way out? Thoughts
Is Three Bond 1215 recommended over Permatex 82194 Ultra Gray or vise versa? According to Amazon reviews in May 2018, 8.8oz TB1215 costs $27.58 and only has 3 stars reviews from 11 people, but 3.5oz Ultra Grey costs only $4.78 and has 4.5 stars reviews from 156 people.
Sorry, I should've clarified; I was asking for your professional recommendation. I've watched many of your videos, and I trust your recommendation. Besides, I'd rather not spend that much more for the TB name if it's more or less the same thing as Ultra Grey.
Hi subi lovers, question is: In a original EJ22, 251 or ej253 both SOHC and N/a, what original size of the pump? And If run on the 11m instead of 10mm, the oil volume Will increase +10% Aprox? In this engines, with 5w30 Full sinth oil, there's a pressure drop or no? Thx guys
yo i picked up an 05 sti. the dealership diagnosis shown everything fine. but when i was on my way to work i was going about 50 in 4th gear about ready to shift when my engine shut off, i lost power steering and braking had to pull my e brake to stop and pull over. i checked my timing belt (took the left & right covers off) the timing belt seemed fine. when it first shut off i tried starting it again but it didnt want to kick over. when i got it to my house it started but now was squeaking, which i think was some coolant that got onto the pulleys so i wasnt too worried. but it is making a different idle sound now when i started it. im not driving it now just in case it is something internal, but no check engine light came on just the oil light but it had enough oil, i check the trans oil and it was good. I was just wondering if anyone had the same issue before but figured out what caused it. the battery is fine, the ground are lightly oxidized so maybe i can change those out. i havent checked the sparks. i just want to see if anyone had similar issues so i can narrow it down more. thanks!
Think u forgot to use gasket maker or some sealant as that will just not work without sealing the oil pickup port. Usually recommended to use three bond but everyone has their choice.
@MrSubaru1387 Can I use Toyota FIPG 00295-00103 for the oil pump sealant? Subaru calls for ThreeBond 1217G or equivalent. Why do you use permatex ultra grey? Thanks!
Silly question. Do the screws on the backing plate need to be retorqued on installation or is it already torqued from factory. Co soldering the pump in new from the subaru
bad video, i need to know step by step. from like removing alternator to timing cover and how to properly remove timing belt. marking timing belt, all the videos i've found on yt are all when the engine is out and ofc its easy af if the engine is out and timing belt is off like wtf??
Geez. So hard to search and watch my numerous timing belt videos first.. Oh no, all this free information, that's provided to me on the internet isn't tailored directly to my needs. I better cry about it until someone spoon feeds me everything I want.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Good video, While you have the pump off check your backer plate screws too, I had 3 of the 5 loose on mine and it pushed the seal out of the oil pump, the other two were tight and would’t budge, I cleaned all the oil off the threads and put on some blue loctite. I’ve heard of people having the same loose screws and the seal push out or getting low oil pressure from that issue. I’m glad I did that instead of finding out a few miles down the road that I missed something.
my front seal just blew off today. How can a backer plate screw cause it? I am going to remove the pump tonight
Also had three loose screws, also used blue Loctite 😆
@@yijianggu5203 The screws are known for backing out. It will cause the oil pump to not pump. Resulting in engine failure
Same ! Thankfully ran across a short video showing that exact issue and sure enough 3 of the 5 were loose and causing the seal to push out
Are the backer plate screws the 5 big Phillips head screws on the back of the oil pump itself that are seen at 1:27 in this video?
If those are the screws you're referring to, would you also use the blue loctite on a new oil pump?
Does a new crank seal come with a new oil pump or does that need to be purchased separately?
Last, buying an oil pump from Subaru itself is very expensive. I searched around different genuine Subaru Parts dealers online and even with the lowest price I could find it's more than twice the price of most aftermarket oil pumps.
My water pump is shot so when I replace it I'll also be installing a new timing belt kit and I thought I would also replace the oil pump while I have everything apart.
I'm choosing an AISEN Timing Belt Kit w Water Pump because my understanding is that AISEN manufactures the OEM parts for Subaru so they are identical to the OEM Subaru branded parts but much less expensive. I learned this from another MrSubaru video. I trust him because I've found his advice to be very dependable over the past few years that I've been watching his videos.
I've sent him messages in other videos asking which oil pump the would recommend but he doesn't respond. I'm guessing that he gets so many questions that he doesn't respond to his older videos anymore.
Can you recommend an quality aftermarket oil pump that I wont have to replace in two years?
All this is for my 2005 Subaru Baja (SOHC).
Your videos are very relaxing. thank you for not talking over them.
+William Ellison glad you enjoy them. 👍
Great video. You ought to do a full bore engine build. 4&6 cylinders and timing belt and timing chain. They could be different as far as procedure
i found a cool trick. to take the sprocket off easily. I threaded the two holes with an m7x 1.25 no drilling was required. Then I used a slide hammer with a plate bolted to the sprocket and it came off with one light pull
Where do you get the small side seals? I can find genuine kits that have the crank seal and the o-ring, but can't for the life of my find those little side seals.
Thank you for these AMAZING videos. Really really helpful.
Me too. I just elected to re-use the old ones:/
I just did mine! Also rebuilt the whole engine. LoL
Don't forget to put the heads back on before you put the belt back on!
A few more questions before I can finally button-up the front end of my '11 OB 2.5 CVT :
1.) Should I drain the engine oil out before pulling my oil pump, or just add back any engine oil that was lost when I pulled the pump?
2.) I did my cam seals also. Should I also coat the cam bolts in a thin layer of oil (just like the crank bolt) before re-installing, or is that not necessary? Do these bolts need any Blue LocTite?
3.) When priming the Oil Pump, do you disable the fuel pump by pulling the fuse for it? Regarding the coil packs, just unplug the wiring harness to each of my 4 coil packs where they connect to the plugs?
4.) My radiator is empty now, and I will be adding the Subaru Coolant Conditioner upon filling it up. Since I assume I would be "priming" the oil pump first, will that process negatively affect my ability to subsequently purge the coolant system of air pockets, which I would be doing at first start-up?
*** Sorry for all of the rookie questions, I hope this helps someone else, Thanks Again as always for your time, patience, and knowledge :)
1) No need to drain the oil. Minimum amount will be lost.
2) Cam bolts go in dry. No oil. No loctite.
3) Pull the fuel pump fuse and unplug the coil pack connectors.
4) Cranking to prime the oil pump has no affect on the cooling system.
Do you think 180k mileage is an automatic reason to just get a NEW oil pump since I'm already in that deep? I think I've read that they are believed to possibly go over 300k, due to being centrally lubricated like they are (as long as the o-ring is good and screws are tight).
** Thanks for everything !!!!
@@michellek.5775 I honestly see no reason to replace it.
Just caught this one, always learning…. Thanks for everything Rob. Be well 😊
Do the oil pumps tend to last the life of the car when the engine is properly serviced and the oil pump as well?
Yes, rarely see issue with them, other that leaking with high mileage.
Great instructional video. Thanks.
I think my oil leak is coming from the oil pump seal. I leak oil onto my exhaust and there’s always two little puddles under the engine. I hope it’s not the crank case but I’m pretty sure it isn’t. I changed my pcv valve yesterday and it was clogged with oil as well. Cleaned the gunk out of the lines while I was at it
I’m dealing with that right now, what I found was the screws for the backer plate on the back of the oil pump came loose and pushed the seal out, so while I had the oil pump off I took the loose screws out, cleaned all the oil with solvent, and applied blue loctite to them. I found scouring the forums that it is fairly common, 3 of the 5 were loose
Would you recommend replacing these seals as well as the cam seals when doing a timing belt even if they aren't leaking?
+matches321 yes. It's cheap insurance.
to give an alternate opinion, if you have a high mileage motor, your camshaft sprocket bolts can be extremely difficult to remove, and if they arent leaking, it might not be worth the effort of trying to get the cam sprockets off to replace the seals
but yes, like mrsubaru says, it is cheap insurance if you can get those cam gears off!
What was the problem you were solving here? Leaking pump?
Great video, thanks! The service manual mentions TripleBond on three of the bottoms screws? Do you worry about priming it at all?
Just had a question regarding which rtv you used. I've seen you and some other web pages and videos shown to use a red rtv for the oil pump rather than ultra gray. I used ultra gray on my oil pan recently and worked out great. I see in your video for the pump you use it too but just wanted to double check on that.
I also didn't use any silicone on my water pump, i just used an oem subaru water pump gasket, do you think that is ok?
Ultra Grey or Three bond are the only recommend RTVs. Yes, water pump gasket goes on dry, no RTV.
@@MrSubaru1387 Awesome! thank you!
Sound is superb haha
great video!! is this what it has to be done to oil pump once it reaches around 100,000km/miles??
Great video, how many hours is the job to replace an oil pump on a 2021 2.4 turbo Outback?
Did you install a new oil pump or clean the old one and just install a new seal?
"Yummy" I said it 2 seconds before you put it on the screen :P Lol'd when it came up
Whats the part numbers fir the side seals. I cannot find them anywhere except in full kits
still looking for the seals? Part Number: 15048AA001
Discovered an oil leak today from the bottom of my center timing cover. Do you think it's most likely oil pump seals? Would the entire timing kit need to be replaced or just the belt? Shop did the timing kit 7k miles ago, wish they would have thought to address this while they were in there.
I’m in the same boat rn was it the oil pump ? My Leak was in the bottom of a timing cover 2 months after heads and timing belt
Hey @MrSubaru1387, just wondering if you could share the part number for the side oil pump seals? I was able to find the part number for the crankshaft seal and the interior o-ring but not the side ones. Are they safe to reuse?
They come in the master engine reseal kits. I have no idea on their individual part numbers. Sorry. Best bet is calling your Subaru dealerships parts department.
@@MrSubaru1387 - Thank you so much for your reply, I found the part number from a diagram: 15048AA001
Helpful video as always, thanks 👍
Welcome. 👍🏻
@MrSubaru1387 yo would the torque specs you used in this video work on a ej22 n/a
@MrSubaru1387. do you have to remove the engine to do this repair> I dont have the means to pull an engine ,and cant afford to go to a mechanic shop. and have no mechanic buddys in my town so I have to do it all on my own and learn as I go. my fam. says I should just scrap my 97 impreza out back, but I lke it to much.
No. Just filmed it while engine was out to better show what's involved and the steps.
@@MrSubaru1387 looking down at the engine, it looks like itd have to remove the radiator and cooling fans to get to everything but not sure.
@@MrSubaru1387 plus finding parts is hard in Nevada lol and expensive I have the 97' impreza outback sport flat 4 2.2 is there any of its sister models outbacks,foresters,ect that I can scavenge parts from for mine? if so which models and years. =)
@@sincityrider5894 it would help.
Great video, thanks. I've seen /heard other Subaru mechanics suggest that the oil pump Phillips screws be removed and reinstalled with thread locker since they have a tendency to loosen and create a oil leak. What are your thoughts?
+Robert Ferraro they aren't wrong. The pump screws do have a tendency to back out over time.
I just bought a new pump and put blue threadlocker on the screws. Tomorrow I find out if the ones in my old pump were loose. I'm having a flickering pressure light at idle.
+MrSubaru1387 Torque specs for those 5 screws? Thanks for the awesome video too!
5.4Nm or 4Ft.Lbs.
@@bryede did the screws of your old pump backed out? I'm in between buying a new pump or just the Orings. coz may Crank Seal just pop out
Hey Mr.Subaru, if my motor is still in the vehicle, do I need to "loosen the relief valve plug before removing the oil pump" like the FSM states ? It appears in this video that your motor is already out of the vehicle. Not sure of the reasoning for this (pressurized?) Also, what is the best way to "prime" the oil pump prior to starting the vehicle? Thanks, this is a good video !!
I've never removed the relief valve prior to removing the pump. To prime, disable the fuel pump and coil(s) and crank the engine. Do so for no longer than 10-15 seconds at a time. Crank about 3 times, or until the oil pressure light goes out.
Thanks for always answering mine (and everyone else's) questions so courteously, promptly, and thoroughly. I just sent you some PayPal funds, not much, but wanted to show my gratitude. Thanks again for the quality videos, and the excellent advice in the comments posted !!!
@@michellek.5775 Thank you so much. I greatly appreciate your kindness and generosity.
How do you prime one of these?? Is it good on start up when you clear the ECU and it takes about 5 seconds to start? Will that be enough to prime the oil pump??
I disable the fuel and ignition system on new engine builds. I crank the engine several times for about 15 to 20 seconds, until the oil light goes out.
So it like a rebuild or did u get a new pump. I have 189k got it used, and rebuilting the motor now. I see there a high flow one also. Do these pumps give out? The first type of motor for me. Thank u.
Dealer told me I need a new oil pump, because I have a leak. from your video sometimes, it's just the seal that needs to be replaced. How do you know when it's time for a new pump?
did you say anything about priming the oil pump?
+Rob McGovern no, but hopefully it would be common sense..
When you primed it, did you just disable the fuel and spark plugs, and crank it over?
Yes. Crank it over a few times. While cranking, after a few cycles, the oil pressure light should turn off.
DO you happen to have all the part numbers for the seals as well as the cam seals? Not sure about your engine, but mine is EJ20G. Thank you.
Does the oil pump seal have a retention spring in it? It appears to be missing from my new one and I binned the old one.
Yes it should have a spring.
Uh oh, looks like my oil pressure light is flickering when I brake. Just replaced the oil and oil pressure sensor. The only other thing to eliminate is a corroded wire, otherwise, it looks like I will have this project on my hands this weekend.
I replaced the timing belt/water pump last year, so I am fairly confident and familiar with the removal process. This time I have better tools, so hopefully, it will go faster (Milwaukee ratchet for the cover!)
My question is what are the necessary timing components that I will need to remove? I assume, the last pully you put on and the tensioner at minimum. Should I just be ready to remove everything?
You need to pull the tensioner, belt, and the crank sprocket. Yeah, somewhat common issue is that the oil pump screw inside the pump back out over time and allow internal pressure leaks.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks! Is it crazy if I try to leave the radiator in there?
Pretty much! Lol
@@MrSubaru1387 uh oh... I replaced the oil pump and sensor and the light continues to flicker at low rpm. But then occasionally it doesn't happen. Any other problems with investigating? I'm at my limit with how much more work I want to do on this damn thing...
Time to look at the pump and or pickup tube.
I did not see this asked in the comments but would you recommend resealing the oil pump while the engine is already out just as a service
Thanks for the video, just one thing that I noticed. When you installed the oil pump, the side seals looked like they were missing... Was that intentional? Also, what do those side seals actually do, since it looks like the gasket maker should seal the whole thing...
Side seals seal to the block and timing belt rear covers.
is it required to put silicone/grey on the 3 left hand bolts, on the threads, you didn't do it here, which makes me believe its not required. enjoy your videos
I just had my shortblock replaced in my 2011 subaru forester xt with 116,000 kms. One day after getting it back the red oil pressure light turned on about 20 seconds after i turned it on and began driving.. I immediately stopped, turned off the vehicle and checked oil levels after it was off for several minutes. Levels were not low at all.
I then noticed a small oil leak under the passenger side of the car.
Despite the leak a few days later the oil level is still good.
I called the shop and cannot get the car back in until next week due to christmas holidays.
I am not driving the vehicle at all. It is turned off and parked in my driveway. I am afraid to start it to see if the oil light has turned off.
Any ideas or advice?
Bad oil pump? Bad sensor?
Do you clean both the oil pump and engine gasket mounting area with 800 grit sandpaper? Or just a solvent like turps? Thanks
Do they sell new side seals? I can't find any part numbers. If they don't can rtv be used to seal it up? I think I've lost one of the 2. Do I need to buy a new oil pump that has new side seals? You are great at teaching. Did a timing belt 3 years ago with your help 98 dohc forester. Be well.
There is a p/n for the seals. I do not know it off hand. They come in the engine master seal kit.
@@MrSubaru1387 I finally found them. 15048aa001 if anyone else interested. Love your videos. You have skills man.
Hey mate I'm getting two different part numbers for the o ring at 3:12, can you confirm is it the one you have in the video or the generic blue o ring with no lip?
How tough would it be to replace the pump with the engine still in it?
Just as easy. Will have to remove the crank pulley, timing belt, etc of course.
MrSubaru1387 thank you I was wondering the same thing
Hey, I'm having a really hard time removing the crank timing pulley on a 2007 outback....
Put 2 long screwdrivers or pry sticks one on each side and walk it off
I had the same problem - it would make it almost off then stick - maybe on the woodruff key? I fussed with it and it suddenly came off easily. Maybe some oil on the woodruff key might have helped. Also, keep any pry tool away from the teeth on the pulley - only pry the solid pieces. I learned they break easily - one little tooth and $38 at the dealer for a new crank pulley.
If you ended up taking the pump apart including the machining ports on the bottom of the pump what torque and or sealant/loctite would you use?
Great video
Which is the correct Three Bond sealant for this job?
Excellent video!
Bill Safreed Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
I have an EJ253 2.5L legacy with 177k, if I let the car sit for 2 or 3 days and crank the engine over I have been getting a rattling sound from the engine sounding like it's dry. After initial start up rattling goes away. I also noticed the oil light flickering at initial start up and then turning off. would these be signs of oil pump going out? I was planning on doing a timing belt replacement and addressing it if necessary. Thanks for any feedback
Sounds like low oil pressure at start up for sure. Could be oil pump or oil pickup issues.
@@MrSubaru1387 that’s what I’m thinking, I’ll have to pop the pan and take a look, thanks for the info.
слева, три болтика надо на фиксатор резьбы...или тот же герметик...))
привет из России! читайте мануал))
как субарист субаристу - лайк!
Another great video,!!
Thanks. 👍🏻
Nice work bro
+dehme haidr thanks!
When I resealed my oil pump about half a year ago I actually put RTV around that entire o ring circle area. Haven’t had any issues so far but I’ve been paranoid about it since I realized everyone else seems to only put RTV along the bottom side of the circle. You think this is going to cause issues?
How has your Subaru oil pump failed? I've never seen one fail before. They are a gear pump like on an automatic transmission. Pretty much bulletproof.
The screws on the back plates are known to back out. This is purely a demo, no failure on this pump.
Gotcha... I've never seen that before but will keep that in the back of my mind. Thanks for that info.
@@murphystreeter the seal on the pump can also start leaking, which then makes you need to handle it
im about to pull my 230k shortblock on a budget, do i keep my oem oil pump or should replace it with a cheap one.
Do you typically reseal/tighten those oil pump screws when changing the crankshaft oil seal?
+Robert Ferraro normally, yes. And some loctite on the screws.
@@MrSubaru1387 I read this 10 minutes late. Just put it on with no loctite. I was about to say that 58 in-lbs felt too loose but I'm guessing the loctite is very important. Should I let it sit overnight, back out the 7 screws and add loctite?
The Loctite isn't required, just recommend.
Awesome!
Very good
I'm confused, it looks like you replaced the seals, not the oil pump.
Hi mate , great video. I would like to ask you a question regarding oil pumps. Can I run a 12mm oil pump on stock ej255 instead of the 10mm? Any steps/tips that I have to take into consideration before install a 12mm pump? Thanks in advance
As far as I know, it's a direct bolt-on.
Thanks man, just one more thing , what is called the sensor located on top of the oil pump? I install a 12 mm oil pump but it didn't came whit it.
The sensor on top of the block, near the oil pump, is the oil pressure sensor.
Sorry im refering to the crankshaft position sensor, i found it
Ah. Wasn't even thinking about it.
is it worth it to change the oem oil pump i dont want to spend the money if i don have to i was going to pull it to thread lock the phillips screws but not sure if its worth it to replace im just a ls guy flipping cars
Do you need to Drain the oil for this?
I just took mine off, and only a little bit of oil came out. Most of the oil is in the pan. So I would say NO.
Is outside of the seal supposed to be lubed prior to pressing in if pump & seal are new?
I like to apply a light film of oil to help the seal drive in more smoothly.
is there an aftermarket oil pump brand you'd recommend for an 06 outback 2.5i manual transmission?
I'm curious why you pulled the woodruff key? What year EJ is this? I've done this job on a 2011 EJ253 and a 1999 and neither required it nor is it called out in the FSMs I have for those cars.
To prevent damaging the crank seal.
Ah, fair enough I guess. It's pretty easy to miss it as you put the pump back on, but a worthwhile protection if you just want to be sure.
Do you have any pump priming tips?
I don't know shit about subaru engines but because pump is mechanical I'm gonna guess your gonna want to pull the fuel pump fuse and letting the car gain a little movement through the starter. Just a guess tho.
Not actually moving the car physically I mean just internally.
FB oil pump replacement video please
It's built into the front timing chain cover.
To do that you need to take the emgine out? And timming?
+JAN GONZALEZ can be done in car, timing belt has to be removed.
Hi Rob, I see a small oil leak coming through timing cover right under crank and oil pump location on my 2001 RS how would I determine if I need a new oil pump or just the crank seals? Don't want to buy an oil pump if all that is needed are seals. Thanks!
I would clean the area completely and see if you can more easily pinpoint the source of the leak.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks! Ill check it out, car has 183k miles.
Im having trouble separating the pump from the block, I have no prying points to work from like you have in the vid. and its like someone put it on with liquid steel instead of gasket maker
Use your teeth, works well trying to pry it off
Do you have a part number for the new side seals? Can't find them anywhere without buying a new pump.
+Scott Bryant from what I'm seeing, the side seals come with the pump. I can find p/n for the bolts, o-ring, and pump, but not the seals either. I bought a master engine seal kit, the side seals where in that kit. The kit comes with all the seals loose in a box, so no p/n unfortunately. Sorry.
MrSubaru1387, if I'm just cleaning up the old pump and reusing it, do you think it's okay to reuse the old side seals based on your experience?
+Scott Bryant it should be fine. All the seals on the sides of the pump do are seal the tiny gaps for the timing area. It's such a small gap that leaving them completely out probably wouldn't even have any negative impact.
I know it's way after the fact but I was needing some as well. They're 15048AA020 and 15048AA030.
Would it be fine to unplug the crank sensor to do the priming?
Yes. Do it all the time.
is it good to put oil on the seal before you tap into place? i was told never go in dry...ha. also can I leave the woodruff key on or does it get in the way. thanks
+Dominic Provini I like to put a thin film of oil to help it slide in without bending. The woodruff key needs to come out.
My woodruff key is stuck... tried to pry it, tap it with a screwdriver, vice grips (started to mar it...). Do you have any suggestions for a stuck woodruff key and how important is it that the key not be marred (in other words, use a new woodruff key makes sense...). Thanks!
Why were you removing it? Yea, you want to replace it with new if it is damaged. I've seen jumped timing and destroyed engines from a damaged keyway. They can break and allow the crank and cams to get out of sync.
Removing it for the oil pump, duh, sorry. Didn't look to see which video the comment was on.
It is not damaged much, just a slight mar from the vice grips...just ordered a new woodruff key. It is still in there though. Yours came out pretty easy in this video.
Yea. Most should come out pretty easily, by hand. Just be careful to not damage the crankshaft while trying to remove it.
You pried the one out in your video, versus tapping one side of trying to get the half moon shape to rotate out? I may try to heat the crankshaft slightly with a torch to see if that helps. This is on a new engine (replacement) where they did not replace the oil pump after a bearing failure (argh..). It only has 20 miles on it, so not sure why the woodruff key is in there so good -- they had to have pulled it out just recently.
When i install the crank pulley it doesn’t go on smooth like yours it only goes one by forces so i took it off again any ideas what it could be?
2 years later I hope your engine is back together but sometimes the woodruff key works up a burr, just give it a quick file mebbe
can i have a question. hox do we know the oil pump dead .cause it seal all around all engines block something etc . thanks
+Nhu Bui times to reseal the oil pump is if you have a leak between the oil pump and block, replace the oil pump would be if you oil pressure is low consistently. To measure oil pressure, you would need to remove the oil pressure sensor and put a test gauge in its place.
MrSubaru1387 thanks . you the best on subaru
This might not get seen but my jdm BH5 wagons year 2000 auto one manual bot have no oil pressure gauge,why this is so important, my manual makes a gargling noise when first started cold goes away pretty fast but sounds like metal on metal was told it's the oil pump on its way out? Thoughts
Is Three Bond 1215 recommended over Permatex 82194 Ultra Gray or vise versa? According to Amazon reviews in May 2018, 8.8oz TB1215 costs $27.58 and only has 3 stars reviews from 11 people, but 3.5oz Ultra Grey costs only $4.78 and has 4.5 stars reviews from 156 people.
Subaru recommends three bond. They call for it by name in the FSM.
Sorry, I should've clarified; I was asking for your professional recommendation. I've watched many of your videos, and I trust your recommendation. Besides, I'd rather not spend that much more for the TB name if it's more or less the same thing as Ultra Grey.
Never had an issue with Permatex Ultra Grey. 👍
Permatex ultra black? Better than gray?
Hi subi lovers, question is: In a original EJ22, 251 or ej253 both SOHC and N/a, what original size of the pump? And If run on the 11m instead of 10mm, the oil volume Will increase +10% Aprox? In this engines, with 5w30 Full sinth oil, there's a pressure drop or no? Thx guys
11mm pump would increase the pressure, might help your bearings live longer?
@@Chloepet yep, that's the idea. Easy oil flow and pressures not tooo high than the standart pressures.
yo i picked up an 05 sti. the dealership diagnosis shown everything fine. but when i was on my way to work i was going about 50 in 4th gear about ready to shift when my engine shut off, i lost power steering and braking had to pull my e brake to stop and pull over. i checked my timing belt (took the left & right covers off) the timing belt seemed fine. when it first shut off i tried starting it again but it didnt want to kick over. when i got it to my house it started but now was squeaking, which i think was some coolant that got onto the pulleys so i wasnt too worried. but it is making a different idle sound now when i started it. im not driving it now just in case it is something internal, but no check engine light came on just the oil light but it had enough oil, i check the trans oil and it was good. I was just wondering if anyone had the same issue before but figured out what caused it. the battery is fine, the ground are lightly oxidized so maybe i can change those out. i havent checked the sparks. i just want to see if anyone had similar issues so i can narrow it down more. thanks!
How long ago did you buy it? I'd take it right back to them.
no part numbers. that o-ring at 3:12 is important but try to find some solid info on it............... frustrating!!
For my 2007 Forester 2.5X it's part 10991AA001. Hope that helps.
Why is it so hard to take off the timing gear? I tried for an hour and won't come off
+tom vang on the crank? Should come off by hand.
Yeah on the crank. It's like stuck on there or something
+tom vang weird. Do you see any corrosion? Or discoloration?
A little bit since its a block that's been sitting outside for over a year. I'm a try again tomorrow hopefully this time I can get it off
+tom vang may need to use a puller.
Think u forgot to use gasket maker or some sealant as that will just not work without sealing the oil pickup port. Usually recommended to use three bond but everyone has their choice.
Huh? What are you talking about? Timestamp?
@@MrSubaru1387 when you was replacing the oil pump you didnt put a bead of sealant on the pump.
Yes, I did. It's clearly shown.
@@MrSubaru1387 i think its skipped it on my phone lol sorry
@MrSubaru1387 Can I use Toyota FIPG 00295-00103 for the oil pump sealant? Subaru calls for ThreeBond 1217G or equivalent. Why do you use permatex ultra grey? Thanks!
Permatex Ultra Grey is the equivalent of ThreeBond 1217G. Both are grey formula gasket makers
Silly question. Do the screws on the backing plate need to be retorqued on installation or is it already torqued from factory. Co soldering the pump in new from the subaru
They can loosen with age. Always a good idea to check them. 5.4Nm or 4ft.lbs.
What does 58inlbs convert to ftlbs
58in lbs ÷ 12 = 4.83Ft.Lbs.
Thank you! I'm new to the game of torquing and never knew the math. I figured it was just about 5ftlbs
Just like a regular conversion. 12inches in a foot.
Привет. Могу подсказать как убрать причину стука всех субару
Inch pounds that says inch pounds. RIP my block
Hand snug! Not 51 Inch pounds, I got to about half that and my threads ripped out on a brand new black and brand new pump.
car asmr be like:
No need to remove the woofruff key btw.
bad video, i need to know step by step. from like removing alternator to timing cover and how to properly remove timing belt. marking timing belt, all the videos i've found on yt are all when the engine is out and ofc its easy af if the engine is out and timing belt is off like wtf??
Geez. So hard to search and watch my numerous timing belt videos first.. Oh no, all this free information, that's provided to me on the internet isn't tailored directly to my needs. I better cry about it until someone spoon feeds me everything I want.
take the stick out of your ass lmao
@@MrSubaru1387 XD just tell him you'll come over and hold his hand