@@allywilkeforsenate indeed and temps matter in metallurgy. Steels don’t really change characteristics until the temps are much higher than what would damage paint. I’m no pro but from what I understand the lack of paint flexibility is far more of a threat than metal not moving when left unheated. Not in all cases I’m sure.
@@allywilkeforsenate I have studied metalurgy and the temperatures where the paint will survive are of no consequence to the metal. But... the heating could help clean the contamination off the paint and help the glue stick?
just started with a hail-damaged Honda. What I have found so far is let the glue gun get good and hot. Increased fluidity allows a thinner glue joint, which seems to work better. Clean your pull-pins with the same iso-alcohol, gives better adhesion. Don't be in a hurry, or heavy-handed. The slow subtle approach appears to work better. I find that looking at the reflection on the areas adjacent to the pull area gives a better assessment of the applied force and apply small movements, really small movements. Hold the tension for a few moments and then relax and re-apply. Gradually increase the pull and hold, increase the pull and hold, and try to note the point where the glue fractures. once you get a "feel" for how far you can pull it, stop just short and hold that tension with the adjusting screw on the top of the plier tool and leave for a little time. The increase the tension until the pin pops off. If done properly, the glue film fractures and leaves residue on the dent and the pin. Apply a little more glue on the pin (do not remove the old glue if well adhered) and place the pin a little closer to the edge of the dent and go again to coax the dent out. 4 or 5 tries should produce significant improvement. I got 5 or 6 dents in a little over an hour, so I now understand why the vehicle was totaled. It is very time intensive, only several dozen to go. Now I am beginning to understand why Arthur Tussick appears to take inordinately long on apparently simple repairs, and I am only going for OK and he is going for perfect.
Thanks for this advice. I was scraping the glue off the dent each time the tab broke loose from the glue, but I wondered if gluing to the old glue would also work. It would certainly save some time by not having to get the old glue off of the dent each time.
I purchased a $40 one from amazon in the summer after our hail storm. Yesterday I tried to get the dents out of my Yukon hood. I went through a stick of hot glue with no luck on dents of any size, and I also used my heat gun to warm the area around the dents.
I bought the PDR tools from amazon too when my dodge van was hit by hail and I did get most of the dents out. My Dodge has thicker panels than a chevy truck I helped a friend pull a big dent out with my tools. My insurance paid me thousands for the hail damage and I invested maybe $300 in the tools to fix the damage. I did buy better guns and glue, the glue gun that comes with the kits are cheap, so is the glue. Yes you also have to tap the edges to remove the crown. The most important thing to do is watch videos of professional dent pullers and learn their tricks on pulling dents. This is my new hobby! I also bought a few rods to push the dents from behind if they are too deep. The theory is to relieve the tension of the metal so it will relax and return it's shape. I also noticed after months of pulling the dents, they even look better. It has been a year since I started doing this.
hey bro i bought a car with hail damage from auction. The dents look pretty big but theres not many of them. Probably like 10-12 total. With just tabs, glue and an amazon gun. Do you think its possible to get the dents out or at least make them close to unnoticeable? Can you share which guns and glue you bought 🙏🏻
So i have the kit ordered but some things I noticed were if alcohol realeases the glue then dont clean the surface with it before trying to apply the glue as it might be a residual alcohol in the pours issue instead use a little soapy water then wipe clean. Same with the pieces you are gluing to the car and to the tool, clean with soapy water and wipe dry. If they continue to fail at the tool side then scuff that side a bit with 1000 grit paper. When removing the glue from the car lift a corner and start spraying with the alcohol and it should come off easier as you lift and spray. This is only what I will be trying if it helps anyone else then I have helped in a small way. As with all new jobs it takes time and patience. Not very often you get it right the first time and if you do write it down to use the procedure next time.
@@fastdadd1958 just order the right glue. They send hobby glue with the kits, it’ll never work. Order black plaque glue sticks. They’re about $30 a pack but I assure you that it will be the best $30 spent. Got a little over 22 years in.
I saw those BP glue sticks on Amazon (but the P was for plague so the company may Not be into 80s hits mixes), good reviews but crappy brand name choice. Like we need more negative brand names during an election year. About $30
As noted elsewhere here - the small temperature rise does not affect the steel stiffness or ductility. It might help get a good bond or affect the stress around the dent due to thermal expansion coefficient.
I just bought a set of the heavy duty PDR rods that I’m going to give a shot. On another note some of the PDR guys I’ve watched will try to get the dent to come back a little proud. They will then tap it back down with a hard plastic pointed rod and hammer. Some of the PDR guys are absolutely amazing at what they can do.
My cheap Amazon pdr dent kit has vague instructions, but still allo me to avoid the problems you experienced. Clean dent with isopropyl, warm the dent area, use isopropyl to remove glue from panel instead of dry scraping. My cheap kit works beautifully. I also tap down the crown of the dent. On my Miata aluminum hood, the small dents surprisingly popped out most of the way when I was preheating them, let alone when pulling them.
To much glue, let it cool a little longer, and use light pulls instead of hard instant ones. Also make sure it’s clean with alcohol before glueing the tab. Very little glue is better. Also make sure you’re using the correct glue. (Black Plague PDR Glue Stick) are the best imo.
I used it on 2 of my cars...dents about the size of a dime. I was pleased with the results of removing about 90 percent of the dent. It takes patience and making the process about 3 or 4 times. I did not use the slide. Had to let the glue dry for at least 5 minutes. Also, used the tool very slowly and gradually letting it slowly stretch the metal back into place. The glue came of with a little alcohol and using the plastic scraper and my finger nail. Read the comments of people who have had success there is good suggestions. One thing I was suggest about using a heat gun...it will take longer for the glue to cool if the metal is hot. In the instructions it suggest not working on a hot hood so if your heating a body part with a heat gun the glue will not stick as well. I would not use a heat gun.
Heating the suface, pulling the center, tapping the high spots down carefully till the light patterns straighten out. PDR is a process. A dent puller is one tool used when you can't get access to the back of the panel to push. In the first try I heard "oil canning" which suggest the metal is stretched now
Clean the little adapters that you are using to remove the dent with the hot glue with alcohol first, to remove any oils, or wax. Also before you remove the dents warm up the area with a heating gun first then pull it out
I've been trying to repair a 50 year old motorbike tank with these and been having no luck. Sometimes the glue doesn't stick but there seems to be some good tips here so I can try some of them. Thanks for the tips guys. From reading some of these tips, I might also bbe trying to pull too hard instead of easing the dents out.
Something i noticed, you are using the plug thats the size of the dent. Maybe try a bit larger and smaller ( if possible ), use the soft tap to push the dent back down when you get it up. The goal of the little pullers is to pull the dent back up. The hammer and soft blow is for the new dent you made to make it smooth again. Ofc, using heat while soft tapping the panel should help a bit. Just as a odd tip, I dont use the black glue, it doesn't want to be forgiving comparing to others. But once again, use heat to help you remove the glue. Don't go crazy but it helps to use heat on the glue when removing it. Good luck and keep it up!
I haven’t done paintless dent removal yet but the gloss surface will definitely make it hard for the glue to hold, I plan to try an extremely fine sand paper that can be buffed back to gloss, gives the glue a lot more to hold onto
I got a couple of different kits. None of them work good but each of them sometimes works. It’s worth a try before doing anything that involves paint. base coat clear coat metallic usually doesn’t go well in the driveway.The simplest dent will run about $300 in materials and thats not going for top quality. Not including the equipment. These kits are defiantly worth a try.
I tried cleaning with different solvents and at different temperatures. It’s always the same sometimes it sticks and sometimes it don’t. I even got some aluminum tabs. Sometimes it sticks to the aluminum and sometimes it sticks to the paint. I can’t figure why. When it holds the dent will sometimes come out. With the knocker or with the slow puller, it don’t seem to matter.
@@andersonsgarage2334 They do sell professional glue, which is much better than, what comes in that kit? They also sell professional tabs, that seem to be better built, but aren’t cheap? I got my dent, the best I could, and used the exact paint and clear coat, I ordered off Amazon, because I pulled a chip of paint off, trying to get the dent out. My glue was grey in color, TDX, or TPX, something like that? You really have to spray alcohol, generously to get the glue off? Don’t be shy. Load it up. Next time, I’d definitely order the steel rods, and try to massage it out that way. Good luck👍
After you started cleaning the surface I noticed it would always lose contact at the puller and leave the glue on the car. Try making sure glue gets around the head of the puller towards the back instead of just applying it to the face. This will ensure the part on the vehicle will break firat and you wont have to scrape
There are videos all over the internet from professions, most of them say its very difficult and their are tricks. Id suggests doing some research and then retrying.
I have the same kit. I'm in the process of researching buying a different glue. I don't think the problem is the kit. It's nothing but tools. The tools seem ok. I think the glue and pull tabs is what really matters. It's doing the hard work. There's things to cheap out on and things you can't. I'll let you know how it goes and what I order. I may order a couple nice tabs for the hell of it.
I didn't have that equipment so what I did was tie my car to a lamppost and drove away hoping that the dent would pull out.. Well ...it didn't pull out, but instead the lamppost fell onto the roof of my car and now I have another, larger dent on my car roof and the front windscreen also cracked.
@@andersonsgarage2334 I also forgot to add, that the car then drove into the side of a building which completely fell down, crushing several other cars. Luckily no one was injured.
You also only want the glue connecting at the center of the dent, if it’s holding too much around it you will pull the whole dent out around the dent without removing the dent its self
🤔 It looks to me as though you're pulling on the tool too fast and aggressively. Maybe turn it a quarter turn at a time while letting it rest a few seconds in between turns. That way you don't reach the glue's breaking point so quickly before the metal has a chance to flex back. Also, already mentioned in the comments, apply a little heat with a heat gun. It softens the metal. Or, alternatively, do it outside on a hot summer day.
Exactly what i was thinking! I am waiting for my kit to come and i am analyzing everything and i just started coming to the comments. One of the first things i know to do after machining and welding fabrications, from working in the AF and also working along with sheet metal folks is the fact that, most metal and materials work needs to have some sort of heat to give it better malleability. If the body work is cold then the glue will not stick since it cools too fast. I am excited to get the kit. I doubt the heat pad is going to be enough heat for sharper creases on corners.
I have the kit and had zero success with the slide tool but the two jaw puller works great. I prep the paint and pulling tool with acetone. Heat the glue with a heat gun and get most off with scraping tool, the rest with acetone.
Do not use Acetone on your car! The Acetone will eat the clear coat off your paint. I use Acetone on a daily basis and we avoid getting it on any sort of paint whatsoever
I forgot to buy Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning the surface of three noticeable thumbnail-sized dents on my black car door which would have meant a 40-mile round trip to buy some from town. Still, luckily wifey said to try using some Hand sanitiser which we had because it was 70% alcohol. Amazingly it worked like a charm making the tabs stick well, but, I don't know if it would work as well on larger dents... But if you're stuck for a quick fix it might be worthwhile!
The pros use a torch or mini heat gun to heat up the metal before applying the glue tab. This softens the body metal and makes restructuring the atoms possible. The way you were attempting the job will not work. The pros do have more expensive pullers BTW.
Next, try using a super powerful electromagnet that can LIFT the dent by grabbed to the metal underneath the paint that way. If you get rich trying that, then i get 50%.
That sounds like a good idea in theory but I feel like if magnets would work, there would be kits utilizing them. I don’t think there is enough steel in a body panel to give the magnet enough “bite”.
it's like you're not cleaning the surface with alcohol before applying the glue. I used the system on my Tiguan today and was able to pull out a dent from a parking lot door ding to an acceptable level. It's not perfect but it is much better than it was beforehand. I may try to massage it out later with a heat gun and a few light taps. When removing the glue afterwards I found that it came off easier if you really soak the glue with alcohol by spraying it, not pouring it on.
Apply heat to the area b4 applying the glue. Metal has memory of sorts. Heat expands while cold contracts. Kind of like shaping a knife or sword. We've been using heat to shape metal for thousands of years. Doesn't make sense to stop now. 😉
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 part 2 we used heat. Didn't make any difference. Maybe to soften the paint somewhat but by the time the adhesive cools the panel cools also.
@andersonsgarage2334 I dont believe I saw that in the vid. 🤔 Taking your time when applying outward pressure helps the metal flex. Some have had luck just popping it off as hard as they can, and it seems the logical way given the screw in and/or tac weld puller way to do things. Much like you see people tapping around areas, the vibrations, and flex the metal you see from professionals does have an effect on the metal. So my suggestion for yuh next time is take ur time as you are lifting the metal up and down b4 you pop it.
ruclips.net/video/YtMSSFwhiXw/видео.html part 2 I am not arguing that it can't be done. My point of the videos is, if you think you are gonna get one of these kits from Amazon and pull dents with ease its not gonna happen. Not only are there many more tools involved in PDR but the experience necessary is just as important.
@andersonsgarage2334 can't argue with that. Good portion of professionals have been doing it for a long time. I've dabbled and wish I had known professionals that I could learn from in the past myself. I've been dabbling myself for the last 5 years. It's a process, and you're definitely not going to get perfection as there are so many different metals, plastics, & fiberglass that varies your abilities. Can't argue with that lesson, though. If it was easy, it wouldn't be so costly.
And no I don't do it for A living either myself. It's makes perfect sense when you think about it all. If you tried it one way. Then why not try A different way instead of that way 👍 right until you figure it out.
90% iso will help release the glue. This is basically what I was trying to show in the video. It may be one of those things best left to professionals.
@@andersonsgarage2334 I tried that. It may also be because it's about 100 degrees outside, or because I think I just have a cheap knockoff product. I was trying to save a few hundred dollars by doing it myself. I live in Japan so it's a bit harder to find these products.
The hot glue seems to stick to your car, but not to the tool. You have trouble getting it off. I'd degrease and scuff up the plastic surface of the dent tool.
Dude I really struggled to watch you try and pull the glue off every time. I’m very confused why you weren’t using the alcohol or some sort of release agent like acetone. Whew
I had a rear-ended van taken to a pro body shop, When I got it back, you could not tell it had ever been in a wreck. The job cost the insurance company $4000.00 Let a shop do it unless you know what your doing. IMO
@@andersonsgarage2334 warming the panel to prevent paint cracking is for when using rods from behind pushing dents out. Regarding getting the glue to stick, I never warmed the panel with mine. 75-85°F is an ideal working temp for the glue
I'd go ask A professional that actually does it for A living what you just said about it. And explain to them everything you did. Maybe they'll have information for you that will help you out.,or they just might not tell you anything about it at all instead. One thing about it all though you never know until you try either way on it all. The worst thing that can happen is you're stuck in the same situation as before you started.,or asked someone else how to do it. Instead of trying to do it A little lighter.,or less aggressive when twisting.,or pulling outwards fast with your slider hammer tool. I'd try using less hot glue on the spots that you're working on. And it'll make it less clean up.,an work to pull those out. Cause the bigger spread pattern of glue the less effectiveness it can be sometimes for bigger areas Dents in vehicles. The smaller ones usually need more hot glue instead of less.
Supposé to put alcohol lol did you read how it work stay it 2 min than pop it than alcohol then place à light than push back if it pull out to far or need forming
![How To Flip Cars | FULL PROCESS [14]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mNlurNIddqA/mqdefault.jpg)
You warm the spot first with a heat gun to relax the metal for the pop out should work well
Warming is just for paint preservation unless you are working in the arctic. That amount of heat will do nothing to the metal. Just sayin'
Second is you using hobby glue not car pulling glue that’s the next issue.
@@836dmarwarming metal will make it more malleable.Metallurgy is a science.
@@allywilkeforsenate indeed and temps matter in metallurgy. Steels don’t really change characteristics until the temps are much higher than what would damage paint. I’m no pro but from what I understand the lack of paint flexibility is far more of a threat than metal not moving when left unheated. Not in all cases I’m sure.
@@allywilkeforsenate I have studied metalurgy and the temperatures where the paint will survive are of no consequence to the metal. But... the heating could help clean the contamination off the paint and help the glue stick?
just started with a hail-damaged Honda. What I have found so far is let the glue gun get good and hot. Increased fluidity allows a thinner glue joint, which seems to work better. Clean your pull-pins with the same iso-alcohol, gives better adhesion. Don't be in a hurry, or heavy-handed. The slow subtle approach appears to work better. I find that looking at the reflection on the areas adjacent to the pull area gives a better assessment of the applied force and apply small movements, really small movements. Hold the tension for a few moments and then relax and re-apply. Gradually increase the pull and hold, increase the pull and hold, and try to note the point where the glue fractures. once you get a "feel" for how far you can pull it, stop just short and hold that tension with the adjusting screw on the top of the plier tool and leave for a little time. The increase the tension until the pin pops off. If done properly, the glue film fractures and leaves residue on the dent and the pin. Apply a little more glue on the pin (do not remove the old glue if well adhered) and place the pin a little closer to the edge of the dent and go again to coax the dent out. 4 or 5 tries should produce significant improvement. I got 5 or 6 dents in a little over an hour, so I now understand why the vehicle was totaled. It is very time intensive, only several dozen to go. Now I am beginning to understand why Arthur Tussick appears to take inordinately long on apparently simple repairs, and I am only going for OK and he is going for perfect.
Thanks man I learned more from this comment then I did from this whole video😂
U should consider being an instructions writer
You need car pulling and warm it to 195 degrees and set to 28 degrees then use the tools you deem right.
Thanks for this advice. I was scraping the glue off the dent each time the tab broke loose from the glue, but I wondered if gluing to the old glue would also work. It would certainly save some time by not having to get the old glue off of the dent each time.
This comment is more helpful than the video and you didn’t heated the car surface with heat gum
I purchased a $40 one from amazon in the summer after our hail storm. Yesterday I tried to get the dents out of my Yukon hood. I went through a stick of hot glue with no luck on dents of any size, and I also used my heat gun to warm the area around the dents.
Similar experience here
I bought the PDR tools from amazon too when my dodge van was hit by hail and I did get most of the dents out. My Dodge has thicker panels than a chevy truck I helped a friend pull a big dent out with my tools. My insurance paid me thousands for the hail damage and I invested maybe $300 in the tools to fix the damage. I did buy better guns and glue, the glue gun that comes with the kits are cheap, so is the glue. Yes you also have to tap the edges to remove the crown. The most important thing to do is watch videos of professional dent pullers and learn their tricks on pulling dents. This is my new hobby! I also bought a few rods to push the dents from behind if they are too deep. The theory is to relieve the tension of the metal so it will relax and return it's shape. I also noticed after months of pulling the dents, they even look better. It has been a year since I started doing this.
hey bro i bought a car with hail damage from auction. The dents look pretty big but theres not many of them. Probably like 10-12 total. With just tabs, glue and an amazon gun. Do you think its possible to get the dents out or at least make them close to unnoticeable? Can you share which guns and glue you bought 🙏🏻
So i have the kit ordered but some things I noticed were if alcohol realeases the glue then dont clean the surface with it before trying to apply the glue as it might be a residual alcohol in the pours issue instead use a little soapy water then wipe clean. Same with the pieces you are gluing to the car and to the tool, clean with soapy water and wipe dry. If they continue to fail at the tool side then scuff that side a bit with 1000 grit paper. When removing the glue from the car lift a corner and start spraying with the alcohol and it should come off easier as you lift and spray. This is only what I will be trying if it helps anyone else then I have helped in a small way. As with all new jobs it takes time and patience. Not very often you get it right the first time and if you do write it down to use the procedure next time.
Let us know how it works
@@fastdadd1958 just order the right glue. They send hobby glue with the kits, it’ll never work. Order black plaque glue sticks. They’re about $30 a pack but I assure you that it will be the best $30 spent. Got a little over 22 years in.
Black Plaque glue sticks?
I saw those BP glue sticks on Amazon (but the P was for plague so the company may Not be into 80s hits mixes), good reviews but crappy brand name choice. Like we need more negative brand names during an election year. About $30
I think one important step is to heat up the panel with a Heat gun to make the steel and paint more pliable
Good call. I will try that.
As noted elsewhere here - the small temperature rise does not affect the steel stiffness or ductility. It might help get a good bond or affect the stress around the dent due to thermal expansion coefficient.
I just bought a set of the heavy duty PDR rods that I’m going to give a shot.
On another note some of the PDR guys I’ve watched will try to get the dent to come back a little proud. They will then tap it back down with a hard plastic pointed rod and hammer. Some of the PDR guys are absolutely amazing at what they can do.
My cheap Amazon pdr dent kit has vague instructions, but still allo me to avoid the problems you experienced. Clean dent with isopropyl, warm the dent area, use isopropyl to remove glue from panel instead of dry scraping. My cheap kit works beautifully. I also tap down the crown of the dent. On my Miata aluminum hood, the small dents surprisingly popped out most of the way when I was preheating them, let alone when pulling them.
Try a wood dowel (about 10" long) with hot glue first. Stick it on and give it a yank. CHEAP.
To much glue, let it cool a little longer, and use light pulls instead of hard instant ones. Also make sure it’s clean with alcohol before glueing the tab. Very little glue is better. Also make sure you’re using the correct glue. (Black Plague PDR Glue Stick) are the best imo.
I used it on 2 of my cars...dents about the size of a dime. I was pleased with the results of removing about 90 percent of the dent. It takes patience and making the process about 3 or 4 times. I did not use the slide. Had to let the glue dry for at least 5 minutes. Also, used the tool very slowly and gradually letting it slowly stretch the metal back into place. The glue came of with a little alcohol and using the plastic scraper and my finger nail. Read the comments of people who have had success there is good suggestions. One thing I was suggest about using a heat gun...it will take longer for the glue to cool if the metal is hot. In the instructions it suggest not working on a hot hood so if your heating a body part with a heat gun the glue will not stick as well. I would not use a heat gun.
Amazon ones stick quite well to the paintwork but fail to stick to their tabs. So they always fail
Heating the suface, pulling the center, tapping the high spots down carefully till the light patterns straighten out. PDR is a process. A dent puller is one tool used when you can't get access to the back of the panel to push. In the first try I heard "oil canning" which suggest the metal is stretched now
Clean the little adapters that you are using to remove the dent with the hot glue with alcohol first, to remove any oils, or wax.
Also before you remove the dents warm up the area with a heating gun first then pull it out
I've been trying to repair a 50 year old motorbike tank with these and been having no luck. Sometimes the glue doesn't stick but there seems to be some good tips here so I can try some of them. Thanks for the tips guys. From reading some of these tips, I might also bbe trying to pull too hard instead of easing the dents out.
It's possible. Please report back with your findings
Something i noticed, you are using the plug thats the size of the dent. Maybe try a bit larger and smaller ( if possible ), use the soft tap to push the dent back down when you get it up. The goal of the little pullers is to pull the dent back up. The hammer and soft blow is for the new dent you made to make it smooth again. Ofc, using heat while soft tapping the panel should help a bit.
Just as a odd tip, I dont use the black glue, it doesn't want to be forgiving comparing to others. But once again, use heat to help you remove the glue. Don't go crazy but it helps to use heat on the glue when removing it.
Good luck and keep it up!
I haven’t done paintless dent removal yet but the gloss surface will definitely make it hard for the glue to hold, I plan to try an extremely fine sand paper that can be buffed back to gloss, gives the glue a lot more to hold onto
I got a couple of different kits. None of them work good but each of them sometimes works. It’s worth a try before doing anything that involves paint. base coat clear coat metallic usually doesn’t go well in the driveway.The simplest dent will run about $300 in materials and thats not going for top quality. Not including the equipment. These kits are defiantly worth a try.
I appreciate your feedback. Thank you. It was definitely strange how sometimes the glue stuck and sometimes it didn't.
I tried cleaning with different solvents and at different temperatures. It’s always the same sometimes it sticks and sometimes it don’t. I even got some aluminum tabs. Sometimes it sticks to the aluminum and sometimes it sticks to the paint. I can’t figure why. When it holds the dent will sometimes come out. With the knocker or with the slow puller, it don’t seem to matter.
@@The-Fat-Kid I'm glad I'm not the only one struggling. That's exactly the same experience I had as you saw.
@@andersonsgarage2334 They do sell professional glue, which is much better than, what comes in that kit? They also sell professional tabs, that seem to be better built, but aren’t cheap? I got my dent, the best I could, and used the exact paint and clear coat, I ordered off Amazon, because I pulled a chip of paint off, trying to get the dent out. My glue was grey in color, TDX, or TPX, something like that? You really have to spray alcohol, generously to get the glue off? Don’t be shy. Load it up. Next time, I’d definitely order the steel rods, and try to massage it out that way. Good luck👍
After you started cleaning the surface I noticed it would always lose contact at the puller and leave the glue on the car. Try making sure glue gets around the head of the puller towards the back instead of just applying it to the face. This will ensure the part on the vehicle will break firat and you wont have to scrape
There are videos all over the internet from professions, most of them say its very difficult and their are tricks. Id suggests doing some research and then retrying.
Winded or rubbing alcohol would help with getting the glue off that you seem to really be struggling with.
Correct, I used quite a lot of alcohol.
Try lightly sanding the black glue thing first, giving it a rough service for the glue to stick to, probably has a plastic manufacturing shine to it!
thank god i watched this video i was about to purchase it but my mechanic told me also that it don't work & not to waste my time & money
so he can get your $.
I have the same kit. I'm in the process of researching buying a different glue. I don't think the problem is the kit. It's nothing but tools. The tools seem ok. I think the glue and pull tabs is what really matters. It's doing the hard work. There's things to cheap out on and things you can't. I'll let you know how it goes and what I order. I may order a couple nice tabs for the hell of it.
@@alexduke5402 awesome thanks for your input. Definitely report back on your findings.
I didn't have that equipment so what I did was tie my car to a lamppost and drove away hoping that the dent would pull out..
Well ...it didn't pull out, but instead the lamppost fell onto the roof of my car and now I have another, larger dent on my car roof and the front windscreen also cracked.
Hence the name Bullsheetbob lol. Nice
@@andersonsgarage2334 I also forgot to add, that the car then drove into the side of a building which completely fell down, crushing several other cars. Luckily no one was injured.
I think part of the problem is the glue they send with it. I have had good luck with mine and I used gorilla glue
I agree
How do you remove the gorilla glue?? Same way with alcohol?
squirl urine works great @@kerencardenas7653
What kind of gorilla glue, there are so many types ?
@@edwardonsax9919 I would assume the hot glue sticks they make.
Using cold water spray may make it easier to remove the glue!
Thank you, I was going to try one,,,l just saved some money
I may have made some mistakes, but I genuinely tried to make it work even a little bit. Lots of alcohol to clean the surface.
Nothing works if you don’t know how to use it correctly,it’s a learning experience.
How long did you wait for the glue to dry on the 3rd attempt on the little tiny dent (the time it worked)
You also only want the glue connecting at the center of the dent, if it’s holding too much around it you will pull the whole dent out around the dent without removing the dent its self
🤔 It looks to me as though you're pulling on the tool too fast and aggressively. Maybe turn it a quarter turn at a time while letting it rest a few seconds in between turns. That way you don't reach the glue's breaking point so quickly before the metal has a chance to flex back.
Also, already mentioned in the comments, apply a little heat with a heat gun. It softens the metal. Or, alternatively, do it outside on a hot summer day.
I think you would have had better results if you had heated the surfaces with a heat gun, or hot water(then dried immediately of course)
As in figure out witch way works best for you on using those tools and the hot glue sticks to.
There's no hope for the glue that comes with the kit. I tried all sorts of times and cleaning methods.
9:00 you're supposed to put pressure with this tool and relax metal around with hammer
Heat up the dent with a heat gun before applying glue
Exactly what i was thinking! I am waiting for my kit to come and i am analyzing everything and i just started coming to the comments. One of the first things i know to do after machining and welding fabrications, from working in the AF and also working along with sheet metal folks is the fact that, most metal and materials work needs to have some sort of heat to give it better malleability. If the body work is cold then the glue will not stick since it cools too fast. I am excited to get the kit. I doubt the heat pad is going to be enough heat for sharper creases on corners.
I have the kit and had zero success with the slide tool but the two jaw puller works great. I prep the paint and pulling tool with acetone. Heat the glue with a heat gun and get most off with scraping tool, the rest with acetone.
Do not use Acetone on your car! The Acetone will eat the clear coat off your paint. I use Acetone on a daily basis and we avoid getting it on any sort of paint whatsoever
That’s what the shop used prior to adding ppf on my entire hood - 10 years later the paint still look amazing
I’m guessing they watered it down a bit?
I forgot to buy Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning the surface of three noticeable thumbnail-sized dents on my black car door which would have meant a 40-mile round trip to buy some from town. Still, luckily wifey said to try using some Hand sanitiser which we had because it was 70% alcohol. Amazingly it worked like a charm making the tabs stick well, but, I don't know if it would work as well on larger dents... But if you're stuck for a quick fix it might be worthwhile!
I have worked on two vehicles now, nice for friends to let me practice on turds before I go onto something nicer.
😂
I think I have about the same kit from Amazon. Same experience, couldn't get it to work on almost any size dent.
The pros use a torch or mini heat gun to heat up the metal before applying the glue tab. This softens the body metal and makes restructuring the atoms possible. The way you were attempting the job will not work. The pros do have more expensive pullers BTW.
You got to use the isopropyl alcohol to take the glue off the car
Next, try using a super powerful electromagnet that can LIFT the dent by grabbed to the metal underneath the paint that way.
If you get rich trying that, then i get 50%.
😂😂😂😂😎😎😎
That sounds like a good idea in theory but I feel like if magnets would work, there would be kits utilizing them.
I don’t think there is enough steel in a body panel to give the magnet enough “bite”.
I almost missed this myself, but instructions say to soak the plastic pieces for 3 hrs and to clean the glue with alcohol too
I bought the whole package to remove hail damage on my car and i was not able to remove the glue even with alcohol. Any suggestions?
we are currently working on a part 2 video with more information.
it's like you're not cleaning the surface with alcohol before applying the glue. I used the system on my Tiguan today and was able to pull out a dent from a parking lot door ding to an acceptable level. It's not perfect but it is much better than it was beforehand. I may try to massage it out later with a heat gun and a few light taps. When removing the glue afterwards I found that it came off easier if you really soak the glue with alcohol by spraying it, not pouring it on.
I absolutely cleaned every single spot with 91% iso alcohol
Apply heat to the area b4 applying the glue. Metal has memory of sorts. Heat expands while cold contracts. Kind of like shaping a knife or sword. We've been using heat to shape metal for thousands of years. Doesn't make sense to stop now. 😉
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 part 2 we used heat. Didn't make any difference. Maybe to soften the paint somewhat but by the time the adhesive cools the panel cools also.
@andersonsgarage2334 I dont believe I saw that in the vid. 🤔 Taking your time when applying outward pressure helps the metal flex. Some have had luck just popping it off as hard as they can, and it seems the logical way given the screw in and/or tac weld puller way to do things. Much like you see people tapping around areas, the vibrations, and flex the metal you see from professionals does have an effect on the metal. So my suggestion for yuh next time is take ur time as you are lifting the metal up and down b4 you pop it.
ruclips.net/video/YtMSSFwhiXw/видео.html part 2
I am not arguing that it can't be done. My point of the videos is, if you think you are gonna get one of these kits from Amazon and pull dents with ease its not gonna happen. Not only are there many more tools involved in PDR but the experience necessary is just as important.
@andersonsgarage2334 can't argue with that. Good portion of professionals have been doing it for a long time. I've dabbled and wish I had known professionals that I could learn from in the past myself. I've been dabbling myself for the last 5 years. It's a process, and you're definitely not going to get perfection as there are so many different metals, plastics, & fiberglass that varies your abilities. Can't argue with that lesson, though. If it was easy, it wouldn't be so costly.
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 exactly. I am going to continue to try. Also buying some of the other PDR tools.
the black smooth attachments don't adhere very well try the red attachments that have pockets for air
It says to soke the part in alcohol, you're supposed to clean the glue sticks also
Use acetone finger nail polish remover on a paper towel to remove that hot glue falls off like super easy
I was using 91% iso. Part 2 coming soon.
Even the professional has to glue it again and pull it again
😊
Semper Fi Bro: 0331 in the house
I just made a video about this. It absolutely doesn’t work. None of them will work on small dents.
Use better glue.
And no I don't do it for A living either myself. It's makes perfect sense when you think about it all. If you tried it one way. Then why not try A different way instead of that way 👍 right until you figure it out.
thanks for this video. exactly what i needed to see
Heat then glue then pull
Justin Turner, is that you 😂
Nope lol
Okay, so, I tried this and not only did it not really work, now I have a bunch of black glue stuck on my car that I cant seem to remove. Yay!
90% iso will help release the glue. This is basically what I was trying to show in the video. It may be one of those things best left to professionals.
@@andersonsgarage2334 I tried that. It may also be because it's about 100 degrees outside, or because I think I just have a cheap knockoff product. I was trying to save a few hundred dollars by doing it myself. I live in Japan so it's a bit harder to find these products.
Mate we gonna spend more on glue that try to fixed the damn dent ?
I was going to try a kit
You got to clean the spot where the dent at to get a good stick
Try reading the direction!
Great I just bought one lol.
Report back on your experience please
Man you work so hard, that I gave up watching your strangles, hahaha, hahaha, hahaha!!!
Sorry!
@@andersonsgarage2334Man it was just funny, Chinese crap, hahaha, hahaha, hahaha.
@@celsobarros2229 no doubt. It was definitely a struggle.
I bought the kit too. They suck! You need the rods, or pay a PDR guy.
The hot glue seems to stick to your car, but not to the tool. You have trouble getting it off.
I'd degrease and scuff up the plastic surface of the dent tool.
Use alcohol to remove glue
I did
You can tell right away the glue is the problem or user error not allowing it to set long enough
ruclips.net/video/YtMSSFwhiXw/видео.htmlsi=OAT3BPf5p449PgDG
Part 2 ^
We are having all the same problems. Ugggg 🥺
Dude I really struggled to watch you try and pull the glue off every time. I’m very confused why you weren’t using the alcohol or some sort of release agent like acetone. Whew
You must have skipped that part, I was using 91 % ISO
Acetone eats away at clear coat so definitely not the play.
@@BaileyMxX not when it’s used quickly
Must be down to glue quality
I had a rear-ended van taken to a pro body shop, When I got it back, you could not tell it had ever been in a wreck. The job cost the insurance company $4000.00 Let a shop do it unless you know what your doing. IMO
I agree
The principle behind trying is to learn something not to become a master on the first attempt.
@@TheJcman72 I agree.
I imagine theres a good chance they just replaced the most damaged parts
i think you need to heat up surface
there are different colors of glue...you stayed with black glue
He needs to warm the panel first
@@SmallvilleZ71 part 2 coming soon. What temp would you recommend warming the panel to?
@@andersonsgarage2334 warming the panel to prevent paint cracking is for when using rods from behind pushing dents out. Regarding getting the glue to stick, I never warmed the panel with mine. 75-85°F is an ideal working temp for the glue
I'd go ask A professional that actually does it for A living what you just said about it. And explain to them everything you did. Maybe they'll have information for you that will help you out.,or they just might not tell you anything about it at all instead. One thing about it all though you never know until you try either way on it all. The worst thing that can happen is you're stuck in the same situation as before you started.,or asked someone else how to do it. Instead of trying to do it A little lighter.,or less aggressive when twisting.,or pulling outwards fast with your slider hammer tool. I'd try using less hot glue on the spots that you're working on. And it'll make it less clean up.,an work to pull those out. Cause the bigger spread pattern of glue the less effectiveness it can be sometimes for bigger areas Dents in vehicles. The smaller ones usually need more hot glue instead of less.
Is not u is the fake holder they gives us
I don't even see a dent.did you watch even 1 video before trying the dent removal?
Did you watch the entire video?
Nothing like some good constructive criticism. Lol. Thanks for nothing @steveleston1848
Or maybe you need to learn how to use it. Ex. use isopropyl to remove the glue 😉
@@OnlyFromHere i did use 91% iso as stated in the video. I also said I've never used it before let's see how it works as a novice.
You're using way too much glue
Read instructions maybe
I did
Supposé to put alcohol lol did you read how it work stay it 2 min than pop it than alcohol then place à light than push back if it pull out to far or need forming
Maybe you need another Car😂
Spray alcohol on the glue to remove it. Guess you didn't read the instructions?
Guess you didn't watch the video, I was using 90% alcohol
Ten minute way to long!! Try 1 min
Try making your own 1 minute video
@@andersonsgarage2334 think he was talking about the glue.