Видео

I had a 1992 Ranger with a 3.0L, it had 393K on it when I sold it and it was still running fine. I got it after someone traded it in at 94k with an oil light on the dash and no oil pressure. Someone had replaced the pan gasket and used a half pound of RTV which a good bit of it ended up in the oil pickup screen. My plan was to just stuff a 351w in it but needed to get it home, I pulled the motor, dropped the pan, cleaned out the screen, checked the main caps, they were worse than what your were here but no copper was showing. I put it back together with only the cost of a new pan gasket and fresh 10W30 Mobile 1 oil and fresh filter. It was a bit noisy at first but shut up after a few hundred miles. It gave me no issues after using it for a week so I just kept running it as my beater truck. It never died and it wasn't from me not trying a few times. I'd shift that thing on the rev limiter most of the time, I towed with it like it was a tractor and ran the wheels off it for 15 years, but that time the body was starting to get rough, it needed paint, had nearly 400k on it and needed an ac compressor, door hinges, a windshield, and tires so I sold it to a guy and bought a newer model with less miles. Those 3.0L motors were tough as nails, it wasn't uncommon to see them over 250k and with basic care they'd go seemingly forever. They didn't make big power but would outlast the 2.9/4.0l motors by double without all the cracked head issues.

Ive used almost all the pastes over the years. I dont think doing small squares next to each other works, you just cant see the difference. When you do the whole car, you can really see differences, particularly in the curves, bends etc. Ive noticed The maguiars ultimate has always given the most shine, with a deep wet look that edges out most others. And it lasts pretty good also.

I use the Turtle Wax paste. It has a cleaner in it that will remove very light abrasions and it shines up great. If you apply it lightly it’s easy to remove. Takes about an hour to do each of my SUV’s and I do it about three times a year…no biggie.

My car made that same noise after I blew my EFI 2 fuse however my fuse blew due to short to ground. I’m still working on locating the wire. However I never had the loss of power you described. My car will simply blow the fuse and shut off when going over hard bumps.

Get a good 1/2 impact I recommend milwaukee fuel Put anti sieze on the threads and just use the impact works beatiful everytime I'm a mechanic I've done it like that countless times the way your doing it here manually by hand is no good for the lower ball joints and control arms your stretching everything Another tip is when you can re attach the knuckle to the upper ball joint or strut once you pop the cv axle out that way everything is solid and no flopping around

You had the vice grips upside down for the direction you were turning!

Mr. Anderson; I was trying to do this on a 2004 Sunfire, but the bearing hub (in order to access the torx bolts) only turned about 20 degrees and seemed to be locked on either side, preventing me from accessing the bolts though the hole. Any idea on why the wheel isn't free-spinning for me? Thank you!

I got a 2012 rav4 used with 90k on it. The transmission fluid was very dark, so i had a drain and fill done on it and the fluid is now a light brown. Doing the blot test, the fluid still spreads out over a paper towel. Most transmission shops i called said to not change it until the next interval 120k or right before that, 110k. I was curious of your thoughts. The car shifts fine, no issues.

Great video, I had the same issue, tried your trick and it worked like a charm. The only issue I had was I inadvertently adjusted the contact for the brake lights to where my brake lights didn’t work and therefore my trailer brakes wouldn’t engage when I depressed my brake pedal…so a word to those who end up doing this, be careful not to adjust the brake contact when your adjusting the interlock.

Mickey and Donald diangnostics

Okay, so, I tried this and not only did it not really work, now I have a bunch of black glue stuck on my car that I cant seem to remove. Yay!

How much should this job cost? Like I’m not gonna do it. I’m not a mechanic I’ll destroy my car so how much would it cost to pay someone to do it?

FW1….always.

I used Klasse All in One for years because of its durability and ease of use. You could get by with twice a year on it. It is expensive.

is he more genius than engineers doing all the research for oil company? why would oil companies lie to consumers to sell less oil instead sell more oil if they tell you to change your oil at 5,000 miles instead of 10,000 miles, these have been tested many many times before they put on the market. 10,000 miles synthetic is no problem, i have done it myself many times

THAT MAGNET IS FOR 10MM SOCKETS

I always thought you only had to drill out the hydroboost rod only if it didn’t fit over the brake pedal pin. I’ve had this installed on my truck for almost a year and no issues. Then a few weeks ago it starting getting more difficult to shift out of park, until yesterday I found myself on a date with the fiancé, stuck in a parking lot not able to get out of park at all. With a little wire wiggling, (and a lot of bitching from her about my old pos truck, which is as nice as the one in this video 😂) I was able to get the truck to shift and get home. This fix saved me from having to pull the hydroboost to drill that out! You are a life saver!! Thank you so much.

but zymol smells the best...

The chemical guy seems to be a rip off and then there’s some crap in England that cost $65,000 for container!!

If Americans would do as good of a job as the British or better at maintaining, cleaning and polishing their cars/trucks! Then they used automotive market would be much much better than it is now!! Unite to work together against the cash for clunkers travesty!! We don’t have to make America great again or elect a certain candidate. But we need to unite in taking care of older cars and restoring old cars!

It’s embarrassing!! The British will take very good care of even with some Americans or a lot of Americans call “beaters” It’s stupid!! In the US, we have the opportunity to keep cars on the road that the British are not allowed to keep on the road. Or it’s very expensive for them! It’s time the average American treated every car that works or even has potential with some respect!! If we did that we could flood the market with lots of nice used cars instead of crushing them!! We have a terrible car, culture and cash for clunkers didn’t help! Bring back the culture of taking care of every car!!! Put pride into polishing and cleaning used cars before selling them like the British!! The British have $640 used cars that are better looking than a lot of the $3000 used cars in the US!! Bring back the culture of waxing and polishing everything!!

To much glue, let it cool a little longer, and use light pulls instead of hard instant ones. Also make sure it’s clean with alcohol before glueing the tab. Very little glue is better.

9:00 you're supposed to put pressure with this tool and relax metal around with hammer

My mom's ES330 has the same issue, just saved me a few dollars bro. Much appreciated!

Can you just use the same electric motor and put it on the new rack if its not a motor problem

In the late 60s, we waxed my Dad's Car, a Dodge, the Paint came off a couple of years later. It was the Factory Paint. Because of that and the Pain of doing it, I have Never waxed any of my Cars the past 55 yrs.

I question if the oil was actually changed in these cars that had failures. I feel some shady mechanics don't actually change the oil when they say they do. I've been changing my oil at 10,000 miles with full synthetic since 1993 with not one issue. I have done this with several cars running three them over 300,000 miles. There had to be something else going on with those cars like over heating or running low on oil or something else going on. 3,000 miles is way too soon for a good running engine. I think the sun shined on your dog's ass in the examples you provided rather than the other way around. The one Toyota that failed vs thousands of Toyota's driving around with 10,000 mile oil changes. People abuse their cars and don't check oil that is more detrimental than 10,000 mile oil changes.

thanks for this video. exactly what i needed to see

I just factory ordered a 2024 Miata RF and it was the first car I've waxed in decades. I used Meguiar's carnuaba liquid wax, which I've read gives a great shine and helps bring out the color of the paint, but doesn't provide as much protection as other waxes and therefore needs re-applied more frequently. Thoughts?

I wish I had a big garage that I could work only vehicles in.

Look at Project Farm and see their testing.

Don't use your absolutely most favorite wrench or socket. It can affect the heat treat if you're on there too long.

What kind of oil are we talking about in this video? What kind of oil was in these engines that the master techs are talking about? Oh that's right...nobody actually knows.

Does your jump box not have force start? Mine did. So heres the issue with that Mustang. When your battery is cooked, like its at or below 9 volts under full charge, the control unit doesnt have enough juice to run the sensor circuit. Its like trying to switch a car relay with 5v when its set for 12v. Its just not enough to get that magnet working. And one of the reasons for this is to prevent Derpy McDerpington from jumling something like a 9v battety and starting a fire. In the other direction theres a. overdraw function. If you try to jump a 7L diesle with say a 500 or 750 amp unit, it can cook the unit. Or start a fire that way too. Use the firce start button (i should have a red button...?) For that. You can run a car fully on this without even having a battery. It they have quite a few *strong* jumps stored in them. It also holds power unlike some of my other boxes. They're good units. You may have just got a dud.

I bought the PDR tools from amazon too when my dodge van was hit by hail and I did get most of the dents out. My Dodge has thicker panels than a chevy truck I helped a friend pull a big dent out with my tools. My insurance paid me thousands for the hail damage and I invested maybe $300 in the tools to fix the damage. I did buy better guns and glue, the glue gun that comes with the kits are cheap, so is the glue. Yes you also have to tap the edges to remove the crown. The most important thing to do is watch videos of professional dent pullers and learn their tricks on pulling dents. This is my new hobby! I also bought a few rods to push the dents from behind if they are too deep. The theory is to relieve the tension of the metal so it will relax and return it's shape. I also noticed after months of pulling the dents, they even look better. It has been a year since I started doing this.

Consumer Reports rated Nu Finish as one of the best waxes for longevity (up to a year) But didn’t rate it for the best shine. I have been use this wax once a year on my car, and think it does a very good job. My car is parked out side all year in extreme weather conditions. In Colorado.

You saved me, I had it all back together and wouldn’t go out of park until I found your video, thanks!

After using many waxes throughout the years, Turtle Wax Hardshell seems to last the longest and add the most protection (not including ceramics or graphene).

workshops dont make money in usa? thats like their main source of income in europe. they charge absurd amounts for oil & labour. oil usually is double, of course there are people who bring their own to save money, but they probably still pay 50-150€ in labour.

I just made a video about this. It absolutely doesn’t work. None of them will work on small dents.

Usually there is a happy middle ground to be found... 10k is almost always too long and 3k is usually too short. The answer depends on several factors: short tripping, severe service/usage, driving habits, oil capacity, ambient temps, odometer reading, service history, etc. My factors allow me to change oil every 5000-6000 miles with full synthetic and oversized filter.

the black smooth attachments don't adhere very well try the red attachments that have pockets for air

I'll change your mind on the chemical guys butter wet wax! Try this. Fund a nice old spot of sap dry or sticky, put a few drops on the sap let it sit in the sun for about 2 mins and wipe away! Your welcome 🙏

I have an 02 buick century and I bought an ignition module that wasn't gm original equipment got it for under a hundred bucks and I'm throwing the P0300 code I've changed plugs wires iac tps coils throttle body fuel pump and filter purge valve and maybe this might be my issue I don't know for sure but I hate P0300 it's a freaking headache

Looks fun. For $175 maybe i can just borrow yours 😄

I almost missed this myself, but instructions say to soak the plastic pieces for 3 hrs and to clean the glue with alcohol too

My cheap Amazon pdr dent kit has vague instructions, but still allo me to avoid the problems you experienced. Clean dent with isopropyl, warm the dent area, use isopropyl to remove glue from panel instead of dry scraping. My cheap kit works beautifully. I also tap down the crown of the dent. On my Miata aluminum hood, the small dents surprisingly popped out most of the way when I was preheating them, let alone when pulling them.

Add a little candle wax or paraffin wax to the threads. The wax gets pulled in by capillary action to help loosen and lubricate the threads.

I have always had great luck with the turtle wax hybrid spray. The last application on my wife’s car was rolling water off a year later.

I use Johnson"s Pledge spray wax on my 2022 Corvette Stingray. I have won first prize at car shows , using this product as part of my detailing arsenal. Car wax manufacturers have bamboozled most car owners