Right you are, my friend, but there sometimes comes a point when you'd rather move on to the next issue. This carburetor issue bogged me down for quite a while. Hopefully, this time it's finally fixed.🙄 Regards, John
Well done John. Amazing thing is, a lot of young guys don’t know what a carb is, if you were to put it in front of them. I hope the day doesn’t come, when parts for these cars are impossible to find. Junkyards around here have fewer all the time. I carry full coverage on mine, but, it wouldn’t take much of an accident to not be able to restore it body wise anyway.
Al, During the rest of our lives there's always going to be available parts for these old jalopies. Look at how much stuff (from everything) has been hoarded/saved from the late 1800s until now. It's incredible. Regards, John
Taking off the screw and fast idle lever from the right end of the shaft. Adding an allen cap screw and washer to protect the end of the shaft. Placing a piece of bar shock in a vice to support the allen cap screw and shaft while you balance the carb over it and peen the drivers side end of the shaft is the proper way to fix that loose peened over shaft . If you have a friend balancing the carb on that screw. And you have an pnumatic hammer or even a palm nailer with a ground shaft to fit into it you can peen the drivers end of the shaft with extreme care.
I have a two barrel carb on my 4th gen t-bird because the 390 is out of a different vehicle, but I had a very similar problem as you with the carburetor. Idle speeds were off what they should be. I put an electric choke on it like you, but I eventually had to fiddle with it off and on before it would behave. I don't know exactly what I did to get it acceptable, but I'm OK with it now. I will check on the play between the linkage and the butterflies like you did, though. My issue now is if I drive the car 4o minutes or so I'll get a a slightly rough idle...might be vapor lock related, but I don't know. Like you say...if it isn't one thing it's another.
Good old troubleshooting! Always trust your gut when you see something off like "it shouldn't be like that". Too many people second guess that first knee jerk reaction and chase their tails as a result! Always test those 'What looks wrong' things first, even if the theory is worst case scenario, test for it first anyway if it's easy and quick.
Actually, the only thing left to eyeball was that shaft. The issue had to be on that side of the carburetor, so I got lucky. The best thing to come out of this is me now having a better understanding how an Autolite 4100 carburetor works. Regards, John
Hi John, looks like your idle mixture screws might be a little off. Set mine at about 1 1/2 turns out from closed position. On the video it looks like one is almost closed. Just a guess.
@@joernone i was only mentioning the leak. An old way to tell if your carb is running rich is to pull a small vacuum hose. If the engine speeds up, too rich. If engine struggles to run, lean carb. A lean indication is preferrable. Just sharing info. I sold my 65 bird about two months ago. Had it 20 years. I have a few parts left to sell off cheap.
Well done my friend. Young mechanics today are like people on a diet... No Carbs !! You've given them a lesson if they watch !!! Excellent my friend. Question : Is that JB Weld the High/Extreme Heat type ?
Ron, Extreme heat JB Weld isn't required for that small job. The carburetor, especially in that area, doesn't get extremely hot. What a sucky idea. 😁😁😁😁 Regards, John
Hey John, just seeing this video today, one month after you published it. There is a good lesson to be learned here, with a little patience and investigation, you can discover loads of stuff. Ive had to remove and reinstall carbs a hundred times in some cases to find the problem. In my video where I show how to find the correct carb gasket, we went through the same on, off, on, off routine until we finally realized that certain gaskets work or don't work on different year Autolite 4100, they are not all the same. By the way, your carburetor is not correct for your car, it has that kickdown lever behind the throttle lever. Correct Thunderbird Autolite carbs do not have that kickdown lever. It also looks like a 112 carb, should be a 108 for 66. What does the part number on the left front leg say? That will tell you what it's for. Just sayin'. Its about time you took that tag off the power steering hose. I was going to sneak over there one night and scrape that off. Rookies! Anyway, very informative video. Thanks.
Nick, Yes, my friend, I know it's not exactly the proper carb. It's a frankencarb that has the 1.12 venturi (600 cfm) and that kickdown lever. At the time it was the best I could do to replace the Holley that was on it. But I've recently bought another, a 1.08 (480 cfm) without the lever. I also bought a complete rebuild kit and will be covering that mess in a future video. I'm glad you're happy about that steering hose tag being removed. I can't have my good subs tossing and turning in their sleep at night. 😋 Regards, John
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
This is a project that will never end....
Old car projects never do, my friend. It's the nature of the beast.😎
Regards,
John
Itsa Ford!
Hi John,
I'm glad you got it figured out, there is always something when dealing with these old cars, but we love the challenge! 😊
Right you are, my friend, but there sometimes comes a point when you'd rather move on to the next issue. This carburetor issue bogged me down for quite a while. Hopefully, this time it's finally fixed.🙄
Regards,
John
Good catch. Careful and patient observation has solved many a problem.
A dose of good luck also helps, my friend. 😜
Regards,
John
Your persistence paid off! Nice job!
More like luck, my friend. 😜
Regards,
John
Glad you’re back in the Tube John
Thank you, Ben to the 5th power.😋 It's much appreciated.
Regards,
John
Well done John. Amazing thing is, a lot of young guys don’t know what a carb is, if you were to put it in front of them. I hope the day doesn’t come, when parts for these cars are impossible to find. Junkyards around here have fewer all the time. I carry full coverage on mine, but, it wouldn’t take much of an accident to not be able to restore it body wise anyway.
Al,
During the rest of our lives there's always going to be available parts for these old jalopies. Look at how much stuff (from everything) has been hoarded/saved from the late 1800s until now. It's incredible.
Regards,
John
@@joernone Well, sitting in my living room/museum, it’s hard to deny that point.
Well done John I knew you would get It fixed in the end👍
Pauly,
There was always a plan B, but it was going to be expensive.😮
Regards,
John
@@joernone 💯👍 Thanks
Interesting, I would have never guessed that was it... good one
Brother Mac,
Even a blind hog finds an acorn once in a while.😜
Regards,
John
Nice lil tidbit of information on that carburetor.
Tracy,
Every little bit helps.
Regards,
John
Hello John. I knew you would find it! Now you can go onto the next issue.
George B
George H,
Exactly right, my friend. The never-ending pit. 😁
Regards,
John
Great result John! You should set yourself up as a motor mechanic! Lol!
Gordon,
Yeah, right. At my age it's tough enough to just set up.😂
Regards,
John
Taking off the screw and fast idle lever from the right end of the shaft. Adding an allen cap screw and washer to protect the end of the shaft. Placing a piece of bar shock in a vice to support the allen cap screw and shaft while you balance the carb over it and peen the drivers side end of the shaft is the proper way to fix that loose peened over shaft . If you have a friend balancing the carb on that screw. And you have an pnumatic hammer or even a palm nailer with a ground shaft to fit into it you can peen the drivers end of the shaft with extreme care.
Wayne,
I believe I'll take a pass on that procedure, my friend. If not, the carburetor would be in far worse shape than it is now.🧐
Regards,
John
I have a two barrel carb on my 4th gen t-bird because the 390 is out of a different vehicle, but I had a very similar problem as you with the carburetor. Idle speeds were off what they should be. I put an electric choke on it like you, but I eventually had to fiddle with it off and on before it would behave. I don't know exactly what I did to get it acceptable, but I'm OK with it now. I will check on the play between the linkage and the butterflies like you did, though. My issue now is if I drive the car 4o minutes or so I'll get a a slightly rough idle...might be vapor lock related, but I don't know. Like you say...if it isn't one thing it's another.
Thanks John.
You're welcome, Ian.
Regards,
John
Good find John, that's why they call it troubleshooting. Better get some new rubber so you can remove that blue tape. That tape looks a little sucky.
LOL I have everything I need. It's all in the runk and in various large totes around the garage.
Regards,
John
Good old troubleshooting! Always trust your gut when you see something off like "it shouldn't be like that". Too many people second guess that first knee jerk reaction and chase their tails as a result! Always test those 'What looks wrong' things first, even if the theory is worst case scenario, test for it first anyway if it's easy and quick.
Actually, the only thing left to eyeball was that shaft. The issue had to be on that side of the carburetor, so I got lucky. The best thing to come out of this is me now having a better understanding how an Autolite 4100 carburetor works.
Regards,
John
John, you iz the linkage-meister !
Don,
More like a stroke of luck, my friend. 😋
Regards,
John
Good too see you my friend
Thank you, David.
Regards,
John
Hi John, looks like your idle mixture screws might be a little off. Set mine at about 1 1/2 turns out from closed position. On the video it looks like one is almost closed. Just a guess.
Craig,
Could be, my friend.
Regards,
John
Hello any vidios on removing replacement of radiator John
When you pulled the choke housing off, one of the holes is a vacuum port. You are sucking air in.
True, but as you saw it's not enough to make a 500rpm difference.
Regards,
John
@@joernone i was only mentioning the leak. An old way to tell if your carb is running rich is to pull a small vacuum hose. If the engine speeds up, too rich. If engine struggles to run, lean carb. A lean indication is preferrable. Just sharing info. I sold my 65 bird about two months ago. Had it 20 years. I have a few parts left to sell off cheap.
Well done my friend. Young mechanics today are like people on a diet... No Carbs !! You've given them a lesson if they watch !!! Excellent my friend. Question : Is that JB Weld the High/Extreme Heat type ?
Ron,
Extreme heat JB Weld isn't required for that small job. The carburetor, especially in that area, doesn't get extremely hot. What a sucky idea. 😁😁😁😁
Regards,
John
@@joernone hahahah I Love you man !! too funny
Hey John, just seeing this video today, one month after you published it. There is a good lesson to be learned here, with a little patience and investigation, you can discover loads of stuff. Ive had to remove and reinstall carbs a hundred times in some cases to find the problem. In my video where I show how to find the correct carb gasket, we went through the same on, off, on, off routine until we finally realized that certain gaskets work or don't work on different year Autolite 4100, they are not all the same. By the way, your carburetor is not correct for your car, it has that kickdown lever behind the throttle lever. Correct Thunderbird Autolite carbs do not have that kickdown lever. It also looks like a 112 carb, should be a 108 for 66. What does the part number on the left front leg say? That will tell you what it's for. Just sayin'. Its about time you took that tag off the power steering hose. I was going to sneak over there one night and scrape that off. Rookies! Anyway, very informative video. Thanks.
Nick,
Yes, my friend, I know it's not exactly the proper carb. It's a frankencarb that has the 1.12 venturi (600 cfm) and that kickdown lever. At the time it was the best I could do to replace the Holley that was on it. But I've recently bought another, a 1.08 (480 cfm) without the lever. I also bought a complete rebuild kit and will be covering that mess in a future video.
I'm glad you're happy about that steering hose tag being removed. I can't have my good subs tossing and turning in their sleep at night. 😋
Regards,
John