At the 5:00 minute mark where you removed the jets - is that the only thing you change when re-jetting the carb? I have this carb on my 1964 Ford Galaxie with a 352 and my car pings a lot even with 91 octane in California sea level elevation. Someone recommended going to the next size jet, as he feels my car is running lean. my carb is the 1.12 size, but I can't guarantee it has the original jets.
Followed this video and the instructions that came with your rebuild kit but having trouble removing one of the primary Jets which I tried heating up a little with no luck; which now has a stripped head and was wondering if you might have a suggestions? Thanks for your help!
My secondary butterfly flops are sticking a little bit when they’re closed, would you recommend taking them apart and cleaning them? Or is there something else I should do? Thanks.
thanks Finished rebuilding the carburetor which got the car started good but now I have smoke coming from the oil fill cap and you can hear the engine missing which is in a Ford Thunderbird that’s been sitting for 50 years with a 390 engine in it
I've got the original off my 64 galaxie. It's in relatively good shape but the carb base is warped slightly. What can a guy do to resurface the base and get it flat again?
Hi, thanks for this video! Does this mean your offering 4100 rebuild service again? Ive been wanting to send mine in, for a rebiuld, but the website doesnt list the 4100.
Hey I was wondering, I have an autolite 4300, I just rebuilt it and the new nitrophyl float seems to be too big and it rubs causing the carb to flood over. the parts store told me that they make a brass replacement float that is a little bit smaller. What is your opinion on what I should do? Thanks!
Sir: We have a 1968 Ford Thunderbird 429 V8 with the designation ThunderJet 360 horsepower. Would this Autolite 410 be the THE carb for my muscle car OR should I switch to a Holley 800cfm dual feed double pumper spread bore!? Thank you, sir; YOU are doing GOD's work!! Jo and Captain Dan dba Ppaco Entertainment, Hesperia, CA 92345 usa
L@@KS like this 4100 Autolite has double accelerator pumps front and rear ! Is this a spread bore or sq. bore configuration? AND finally, can it be made to accept electric choke assembly? thank you, brother.
*Note:* This video does not show the removal of the air-cleaner stud. If you don't remove it, the top of the carburetor will not come off, so remove it before you begin the disassembly procedure shown in this video. *Note 2:* Also not shown in this video is a *tiny* check-ball in the secondary diaphragm area -- it's inside a hole that you can see at the top, after you have removed the secondary diaphragm cap. The hole is exactly in the middle between the top two screws that hold the secondary-diaphragm cap on. If you take the secondary diaphragm out and turn the carburetor just right, it *will* fall out, so be careful!! This check ball is *not* included in the kit from carburetor-parts.com (at least, it wasn't included in the kit I received). So don't lose this little tiny check-ball!! It's is *far* smaller than the one in the accelerator pump, and is very easily lost! (Luckily I saw mine fall out, and I saved it -- didn't know where it went until I found another re-assembly video here on RUclips.)
At the 5:00 minute mark where you removed the jets - is that the only thing you change when re-jetting the carb? I have this carb on my 1964 Ford Galaxie with a 352 and my car pings a lot even with 91 octane in California sea level elevation. Someone recommended going to the next size jet, as he feels my car is running lean. my carb is the 1.12 size, but I can't guarantee it has the original jets.
I have a quick question regarding the "equalizer baffles". Both of mine are broke. Do I need them to make it run?
I'm thinking about using 2 these on a tunnel ram for my next project . What is the length front to rear on these?
@@MikesCarburetor thank you
Followed this video and the instructions that came with your rebuild kit but having trouble removing one of the primary Jets which I tried heating up a little with no luck; which now has a stripped head and was wondering if you might have a suggestions? Thanks for your help!
@@MikesCarburetor Thanks I got them out and I ordered new jets from you guys
My secondary butterfly flops are sticking a little bit when they’re closed, would you recommend taking them apart and cleaning them? Or is there something else I should do? Thanks.
@@MikesCarburetor I’m sorry but do you mean by Grind the back of the screw threads down to the shaft?
thanks Finished rebuilding the carburetor which got the car started good but now I have smoke coming from the oil fill cap and you can hear the engine missing which is in a Ford Thunderbird that’s been sitting for 50 years with a 390 engine in it
I've got the original off my 64 galaxie. It's in relatively good shape but the carb base is warped slightly. What can a guy do to resurface the base and get it flat again?
@@MikesCarburetor I wound up dressing it with a flat stone and it wasn't warped as much as I thought. Its pretty flat now.
Hi, thanks for this video! Does this mean your offering 4100 rebuild service again? Ive been wanting to send mine in, for a rebiuld, but the website doesnt list the 4100.
Hey I was wondering, I have an autolite 4300, I just rebuilt it and the new nitrophyl float seems to be too big and it rubs causing the carb to flood over. the parts store told me that they make a brass replacement float that is a little bit smaller. What is your opinion on what I should do? Thanks!
What happened to the assembly video??
how much CFM is that stuff ??
Sir: We have a 1968 Ford Thunderbird 429 V8 with the designation ThunderJet 360 horsepower. Would this Autolite 410 be the THE carb for my muscle car OR should I switch to a Holley 800cfm dual feed double pumper spread bore!? Thank you, sir; YOU are doing GOD's work!! Jo and Captain Dan dba Ppaco Entertainment, Hesperia, CA 92345 usa
L@@KS like this 4100 Autolite has double accelerator pumps front and rear ! Is this a spread bore or sq. bore configuration? AND finally, can it be made to accept electric choke assembly? thank you, brother.
thank you Dave
er, that would be MIKE.
*Note:* This video does not show the removal of the air-cleaner stud. If you don't remove it, the top of the carburetor will not come off, so remove it before you begin the disassembly procedure shown in this video.
*Note 2:* Also not shown in this video is a *tiny* check-ball in the secondary diaphragm area -- it's inside a hole that you can see at the top, after you have removed the secondary diaphragm cap. The hole is exactly in the middle between the top two screws that hold the secondary-diaphragm cap on. If you take the secondary diaphragm out and turn the carburetor just right, it *will* fall out, so be careful!! This check ball is *not* included in the kit from carburetor-parts.com (at least, it wasn't included in the kit I received). So don't lose this little tiny check-ball!! It's is *far* smaller than the one in the accelerator pump, and is very easily lost! (Luckily I saw mine fall out, and I saved it -- didn't know where it went until I found another re-assembly video here on RUclips.)
Yeah, beat the shit out of the soft throttle valve plates with a pair of needle nose pliers. Hacker