The click no start problem explained * update at:
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- My starter clicks, my VW won't start just clicks, Click problem with starter, Clicking problem with starter, replaced starter but did not fix the click problem, my Volkswagen starter just clicks, starter just clicks. my Porsche starter just clicks. how do I fix my starter clicking problem. troubleshooting starter clicking problem.
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THANK YOU! Clicking problem solved.
I just did this on my 1985 Toyota 4Runner that would not start and I had to push start it 50% of the time.
I did this with 10 ga. wire and ran it to the starter solenoid. I use this truck for Home Depot runs and moving stuff etc.
This just make my truck 100% reliable.
Glad to have helped.
I have a John Deere 185 Hydro lawn tractor that had an intermittent "one click, no start" issue. I installed a $16.00 knock off John Deere AM107421 Starter Relay Kit from eBay and it solved the issue exactly as this video said that it would. Great information!
Thanks man!
Just fixed my clicking problem. Turned out bad battery ground cable connection. Simple test: voltmeter applied between battery ground post and engine block should be less than a volt when starter engaged--was getting 12 volts! On inspection found trouble in two spots: 1) Loose ground cable bolt at engine, and 2) Corroded wire at battery terminal (it had aftermarket top post clamps with compression screw termination for wires). Amazed that it hadn't been giving me trouble before now. My first clue was dash indicator lights dimming or going out when key turned to start. BTW, great job on your breakdown/explanation!
That test you performed is called a voltage drop test, and really any battery cable end should have less than .5 volt drop.
This video is mainly about voltage drop in the primary, but the secondary as in your case can mimic a similar problem. Nice job on the fix. Thanks for the post.
Simple and straight to the point. I often get click no crank on my 54 pontiac. Going to focus on the primary. Thank you sir!
If you end up not being able to fix the problem with just changing a wire or two, and decide to stick a relay on it. If you want a more classic look, go with an early horn relay. I had a customer once with a classic car and didn’t like the look of a ford solenoid (Sw3). But accepted the look of an early relay. If My memory serves me, it was one from an early Nova; they are made out of metal, and also will carry the load.
Anyway, good luck.
I added starter relay to my old car and it worked!! Thanks for sharing knowledge
Sure man
I got the new starter relay today, and it worked. My mv agusta rivale was up and running again.. again, tnx much! More power to you!
Glad to hear it, keep the dirty side down.
I have the one click problem .before this it was no crank no Star interment for little while . mechanic didn't know where the starter relay is located and he says the one click is your starter he user a hammer but didn't get it to its a honda CR-V any ideas?
First off, I doubt if there is a starter relay.
Well if it was exclusively a no click that could be the neutral safety switch/clutch switch. It is possible though, this is all from the single click issue this video addresses. How old is the vehicle?
Here’s what I would do on this one. Get yourself a 12 V automotive test light, and during the click issue check if you get 12 volts to the small wire at the starter solenoid.
If 12 volts gets through all the primary wiring to the solenoid during cranking, your problem is most likely what this video addresses. You actually need to install a relay.
If I’m right, a dip-shit mechanic can smack the starter with a hammer till the cows come home, won’t make a difference.
Do what I say and let me know what happened.
@@apolouo it's a Honda CR-V 2012 but 180000 miles I got it used so I don't know if is original starter .and we did smack it many times still no change just that click (apparently coming from starter )and I'm waiting on help to lift car up take cover out since this one is located under the engine block almost impossible to check cables from the top . I'll let you know thanks alot
@@apolouo my 95 ranger don't get no power to the small wire on the solenoid what can it be. The starter and battery are good
Like any RUclips video, this addresses older vehicles. Older and newer vehicles are on a completely different field.
That’s why I said *early model* on the first screen. I have an update to this video by the same name. I’m much clearer on your point in that video. I throw this one up just because, and it started getting hits.
OKAY, all. The solenoid, has two very essential duties. 1) To engage the starter gear, to the 'flywheel' of any engine. 2) To 'switch' off the main battery cable power, WHEN ENGINE STARTS. THERE IS A LARGE 'contactor' on the cable end of the solenoid. Probably two large copper rings; one on the GROUNDED side of the solenoid housing (cable end) and another on the solenoid 'pin' which is driven into the coil, upon the initial key turn, to switch on. Over time and use, these two high-amperage 'contacts' become corroded/oxided/ etc. This, will not fully 'engage' the solenoid pin, moving the starter gear onto the flywheel. CLEAN THESE CONTACTS........VERY SHINY, whatever metal they're made of.
Good luck, ALL...
Hummm, if you supply a different 12 volt source, other than the primary wiring to the solenoid (like I do in the video) and the thing cranks, the problem isn’t the solenoid, silly.
I had this for months. Replaced three burned out starters. And two solenoids. Ckd ignition wire while key was on and had 8 volts . The starter was engaged going down the road.
Then ....click click...replaced starter. Eventually do it again.
So, I wired a push button switch to the solenoid. Works great...
The description of your problem has all the earmarks of a fried ignition switch. The starter engaging while driving, and only eight volts in the primary wire at the solenoid during cranking.
If now after bypassing your ignition switch, around 12 volts has consistently returned to the primary wire during cranking, then a better fix would’ve been replacing the ignition switch versus bypassing it.
i've had this happen in 3x mazda 808 wagons i have owned, i just added a 12v auto relay and my current 808 has been starting happily for 19 years, with such a low switching current for the relay the cars wiring doesn't degrade much as i have discovered.
basically this is due to high current draw in the wiring from the ignition switch to solenoid causing the wire to degrade, hence higher impedance (resistance), this hack works because of the low switching voltage/current for the added relay.
the same problem is why people add relays to drive the headlights instead of having the high current through the headlight switch. this protects against piss poor brightness, and potential fires from the wiring.
Just going through old post and saw this one today. Pretty good description of the problem. I wouldn’t call it a hack though, Ford with their tens of millions of cranking systems wired this way, might take offense to that. :-)
ABSOLUTELY PERFECT VIDEO!!!! easy to understand, GREAT GRAPHICS!!! TY!!!
Glad it helped
That was a very good video. None of the other videos even mention solenoid. 👍
Like I said, lots of poor advice on RUclips on this subject.
Hell ya fixed the problem that I’ve had for a while now on and off.
What year and model vehicle?
@@apolouo 1997 f150 4.2
I don't usually take the time to comment, but, excellent video. Straight forward and thorough. Subbed.
Thanks man
just started having this issue with my 84 cj7 jeep, thought got infected with the bug, checking it ASAP..thanks
This update of mine is a little clearer.
m.ruclips.net/video/qdS1Ru1s6H4/видео.html
Your correct that this is my problem but I really want to thank you for the hard work you did to make the video.
Glad it helped.
Holy shit , what a amazing quality video. Easy to follow and clear! Thank you so much
Going over back posts, sometimes I miss posts, just saw yours. Thanks for the past.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!! This video helped me find the issue. I was able to test starter.....and by pass the safety switch......and found the issue.
Glad it helped. Thanks for the post.
Heck yea.
Thanks.so much
I hope and believe this will fix my1 click.no start
Work is amazing keep it up.
Thanks man.
Had this issue with my 87 4runner . I bypassed the factory starter relay and put in a heavy duty ford bronco relay. No clicking problems anymore
Yeah those cheep Bosch relays (I call them 30-87’s) have no business being in the primary side of a cranking system. Still if you didn’t run new wire after the relay to the starter solenoid, than your problem may have been the resistance causing the click problem was all at the connection point of the wire going to the solenoid from the old Bosch relay. Or the Bosch relay wasn’t allowing the proper current to flow through it. Either way, you spanked it. Sw3 is my pet name for a Ford starter relay.
Thanks for posting.
THANK YOU ....THAT WAS WHAT IT WAS...
Thanks for the post.
You are an absolute genius thank you.
Not really. But I do know my way around cranking systems.
Haha well you saved my day so Thank you
Hi funny enough it worked for my boat, had a relay between key and starter and that failed.
Glad it helped
How can I star a lexus es300 after a short circuit in the vatery
Sorry just saw this post. Are you asking about a shorted battery?
very good video , specific and cool, straight down to busniess . you sir just got a subscriber !!!
Thanks man...
79 f100
One day it started doing the click no start , then I replaced the sw3 along with the electric shiny square thing next to it , new battery alternator and battery, it fired right up , then one day I turned the lights on first , now it cranks but won’t start
Well if the “electronic shiny Square thing” as you put it is about five inches square and about two inches tall, that’s the electric ignition module. It controls the spark to the spark plugs.
If it ran for a while but then stopped staring, and you still have on old electronic ignition module I would stick that one back in and see if it starts. But it’s unlikely that a new module failed, but it is possible. Otherwise you could have a sporadic open in one of the wires in the loom that plugs into the module.
You could also try shaking this loom with the new module on and see if that gets you spark. The early sw3’s have an I and and S on them, The I is for ignition, I believe this should have 12 volts constantly to it, it’s been a long time. But if you just have only a single wire going to the sw3 ignore what I just said.
Nothing you changed probably caused your problem now, but changing the parts you may have moved around a wire that was Close to having an open in it, and now it’s constantly opened.
One more thing, if when you turned your lights on and they don’t work anymore, the electronic module is on the same circuit as your lights, and you just blew a fuse or a fusible link somewhere.
That’s all I got... if with all this you still can’t get it to start post back, I have a buddy who loves old Ford, I hit him up with some questions.
Thanks for the post.
Good work xMech. You might explain why you need the "SW-3" is...? The wire is not easy to replace, thus you need a boost in the line? Or exactly what the SW-3 does? Anyway though I will tell my mechanic about it when I have him work on it.
That’s easy. The wiring that energizes your starter solenoid is broken up. It essentially starts at the battery maybe goes through A fusible link, then the ignition switch, then to the neutral safety switch, then lastly to the starter solenoid.
If your vehicle is an early model the problem causing this issue is resistance somewhere in all that wiring. *What makes the SW3 such a cool fix is* The loss of current in the primary wiring because of the resistance, doesn’t affect the SW3. Unlike the starter solenoid, the lower flow of power in the primary circuit works the SW3 just fine. And the added new 10 gauge wires keeps the problem from ever coming back.
I’ve probably installed 100 of these, never had one customer come back and say it started clicking again.
P.S. if your mechanic tells you I’m high, ignore this. If your vehicle is a early model, and it has a single click problem; this is the fix. Tell your mechanic you’re the one paying the bill, so stick it on.
Just the info i needed, thanks!
Thanks man
What are you talking about here? From what I understand the clicking is the solenoid moving to engage the pinion gear and the contacts, so if you here click and doesn't start then one of two things happened your pinion gear is hitting your fly wheel instead of engaging in the teeth and stopping your solenoid from making the contacts on the opposite end so you just hear click and this is why hitting the starter makes it work, or two your starter clicks but nothing happens even if beat it to death this is either the contacts on your solenoid that are burnt or your motor winding have gone out I've seen both these things happen on starters
Well, I’ve heard this thing about ring gear/Fly wheel being struck, and that’s what the click sound comes from. This Is complete nonsense. I have seen 1000 vehicles with the this issue, and tore up bendix or ring gears never have been a problem.
To your second point. This is real simple, the reason this cheesy CGI video has over 1 million hits is, new starters don’t fix this problem! That’s because the starter (I’m including a solenoid here) isn’t the issue.
Both of your points are easily refuted, people have crawled under their vehicles to see that this bendix arguments is nonsense. And if it was a solenoid or a winding issue causing the problem a new starter would fix that. But that’s not what happened when people get talked into replacing starters for the single click issue. They still have the problem.
Ask yourself this question: Why does jumping the battery cable to the ignition solenoid wire on vehicles with this issue, ALWAYS cranks the starter. This test essentially bypasses The entire primary circuit, humm...maybe the problem there.
Do yourself a favor, I have updated to this video on my site, it has the same name as this one. Watch that video, there’s some good stuff there. You’ll understand my points better, and the next time you run into this issue get yourself a test light and test for yourself. You will see that I’m right.
Don’t feel bad, I have worked with mechanics that have replaced starters over this problem, but when they jump into the vehicle to pull it out of the shop, CLICK! I told them.
If the problem is in the primary wire, why not just replace it instead of getting or doing anything else?
Well, the primary starts at the battery; then maybe a fusible link - ignition switch - neutral safety switch - then to the solenoid. Where do you start?
And it’s a much harder job going into the looms and changing wires, than most people would expect.
I have an 01 Ford f150 lariat 5.4l V8 Triton with about 260,000 miles on it. It doesn't crank but does (sometimes) click once and sometimes it does nothing. My instrument cluster goes haywire, my headlight switch turns off my dome light but headlights don't turn on, and there is intermittent clicking (sometimes in the passenger side dashboard, sometimes in or behind the fuse box, but stops clicking when I push the brake pedal) as well as other electrical issues, ie...door locks, power windows, etc... Could one thing really be causing all these issues or is there separate causes for this? Keep in mind it doesn't always act the same way Everytime I try to start it, but the one thing that's consistent is the no crank no start issue. Any advice?
Your description of the problems, seems to eliminate a ground issue. Going haywire, isn't helpful, but assuming there's no ground hunting going on here, your issue is on the + side.
In this case, it's important to know, the battery and system voltage, at the time of the issue. Do you really have 12 volts getting to these circuits. Clicking relays, can be a sign of low voltage. And yes, to answer your question, a single wire or component that significantly drops the voltage, can be the entire problem.
Start with the thing that would put the most load on a system, the starter. Check for 12 volts on the right side small terminal of the starter solenoid (SW-3) at crank time. This is the wire going back through your neutral safety switch to the ignition switch.
If you get 12 volts at crank time there, but it doesn't crank, take a set of jumper cables, connect one red to your battery +, the other red, just tap the right side large terminal of the SW-3.
If it cranks, your SW-3 has failed, or you have a major voltage drop in the cranking secondary. Which is the large (cables) from the starter back to the battery. (search, how to find a voltage drop)
If this jumper cable trick works, turn the ignition switch to run, and start this freaking truck.
Because this is almost a bulletproof way to start a Ford, I'm assuming it's running.
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Now, if the voltage does drop at the small terminal of the SW-3 @ crank time, say below 11 volts, and doesn't crank, with battery voltage above 12.4-12.5, measured at the terminals not the posts of the battery. Then you have a voltage drop issue, in a main feed, probably the fusible link itself, or something after it.
Get it going and let me know, if you actually do have 12 volts getting to these components.
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When I say jumper cables, I mean actual jumper cables, not jumper leads. If you go from the + battery terminal to the load side of the SW-3 with a (jumper lead) you will burn that lead up!
I turn the key and the dash lights dim... You said then the problem is a secondary issue, what's the secondary path? Thank you!!!
Well in your case l’d start at the secondary source: the battery.
If you have access to a volt meter test the voltage at *the battery posts* not the cable terminals. The surface charge (the battery just sitting there) should be above 12.5. If it fails this test by more than .2 or .3 volts it’s bad or undercharged. During a cranking attempt the battery post voltage shouldn’t fall below 10.5 volts. If it does this also indicates it’s bad or undercharged. In your case both of these tests will probably dump the voltage.
To answer your question, the secondary path starts at the negative cable connection on the block then to that cable’s connection on the battery, goes through the battery, then the positive cable connection on the battery, then assuming it’s not a Ford straight to the starter itself. It’s possible you could have a lose or bad connections at one of these connections (you find those with what’s called a voltage drop test, that’s all over RUclips.) but it’s important to check the battery voltage first.
Have a Kubota RTV 500. Had a clicking noise. Replaced, battery cable, battery cable connetor, battery load and volt tested. Starter rebuilt, no issue found, soliend replace just cause. Now its doing it again, just clicking. Last time after charging the battery, the next morning it just started. ugh...any thoughts??
I gave it a look, it basically has a Chevy type starter. Do this, jump the small wire on the solenoid from the large cable, if that solves your problem (it fixes the click problem) then fix that like I suggests here. I have an update to this video, of the same name of this video on this site. On that update I included a schematic. A sw3 is nothing more than a early Ford starter relay. You should watch that updated video, there’s good stuff in there.
Post back if you can’t figure it out.
1994 Cadillac Fleetwood will not crank and when it does it makes a screeching sound from engine. Car always starts, but than it started dying 20 mins in and the time got shorter. Usually after resting a day it would fire up, now it just makes an awful sound. I've invested over 4grand in this car since running it off road due to tires popping off bead, too far in to turn back now, what could be the issue? Willing to pay for the advice that fixes this issue asap.
Well it could have a bad teeth on the ring gear, it’s really called a flex plate. It could have a busted flex plate, but that usually makes more of a clunk sound. I’ve seen people pull engines for this problem.
Are you 100% sure the screeching noise isn’t coming from the starter?
It also could be just a bad fan belt(s) too.
Make a movie of the sound and send it to xMech@att.net
@@apolouo when I get some time 2 work on it I'll diagnose the issue and send or tell u the outcome. Just cut the flow master exuast system off with cats being deleted, it's all clogged up. Working towards starting issue slowly.
this seems like an advert for an SW3, wich seems just another starter relais. If the primary starterwire builds up to much resistance, why not replace it for a thicker less resistant wire???
Well, for simplicity sake I illustrated only one wire in the primary side, this is of course not how it works.
The primary side starts at the battery travels to the ignition switch then to the neutral safety switch then to the starter. Where would you start.
Anyway, cutting into looms replacing wiring isn’t as easy as it sounds. The comparatively simple SW3 modification will jolt your starter to life every time you crank that key.
You’ll wonder why it wasn’t wired this way from the factory.
yes, it shouldn't be too difficult to rewire that circuit you can route it along the existing cables, no need to insert it...and a lot cheaper than adding another switch in between...
Instead of adding a new circuit with a new relay and additional wiring, why can't the wire with high resistance from overtime use just be replaced?
Reasonable question, but the primary Circuit starts at the battery goes through maybe fuseable link, maybe the fuse box, ignition switch, no start in gear switch, then to the starter solenoid. Where do you start? Have you ever went inside taped looms and replaced wiring, no easy task.
I didn’t represent the full length of this wire in this video, but I did in the update to this video, it’s on the same site with the same name is this one.
Installing these isn’t any big deal. Any commercial truck, ups, FedEx, RV’s, all Grumman Olson, Union City boxes that come with what we’ll a Chevy type cranking Systems, come wired like this from the factory. If you have this issue, you’ll hear Angels sing when you hit your key, if you install this.
There’s a reason this cheesy CGI has this many hits.
@@apolouo With that many items, then I understand why the additional relay is faster and easier. Off hand I'd say that the "wire" having increased resistance is more likely or rather more accurate to say that one or more places have maybe corrosion that increase the roverall esistance to cause this effect, correct?
In a sense, yes. the early model (older the vehicle) it’s more likely that the resistance is distributed throughout the entire primary circuit. The later the model it is, it’s more likely the resistance can be at a single point, like the connections directly at the back of the ignition switch, or at the solenoid itself. These aren’t set in stone, but they are typical.
I don’t recall installing a sw3 on any vehicles newer than probably 10 years, before taking a good at the single connection points typically associated with the single click problem.
What causes the signal wire to stop working like that ??? ... Mine slowly over time ... But what causes that???
Well, time passing is what connects all the vehicles that have this issue. Over time resistance builds up in the wiring. If the “primary” wiring, that from the battery to the starter’s solenoid was 10 gauge and not 12 This issue probably would’ve never happened.
good information. but what if the clicking is non stop and not cranking engine with a brand new fully charged battery? FYI the word effect in your video should be substituted for affect, just saying.
Well typically, if you’re talking about multiple clicking when the key is held on, this is almost always brought on by a bad or under charged battery. A loose battery cable connection would be the next I would check for. High resistance (volt drops in battery cables) won’t cause the multiple clicking sound. But if a cable is loose, or has a bad connection at battery, frame, starter, or whatever. I have seen a few times cause this problem.
Watch my video *Starter clicking problems 101, 102, 103.* It’s all about troubleshooting cranking problems from the sounds the starter makes.
I have also seen this be a neutral safety switch issue, and the clicking... sound isn’t actually coming from the starter. People just make that inference. The sound is coming from a relay associated with the starting, and not the cranking circuit.
Write back if you still can’t find the problem.
I was about to head out and replace the starter motor on my issuzu truck until I found this video..I've the same problem as a person has posted here already...it cold starts perfect but after running and turning off its click nothing,click nothing!I don't have knowledge or equipment to test voltage in out etc but am leaning towards this may be fix I need instead of replacement...can anyone give me any idea or opinion on how solid my assumption is or any advice on what I can do to further back my hunch!
There’s two things, firstly, there is a visual/hearing troubleshooting test in this video, when I talk about seeing if any other loads die or bog down. I did an update to this video (it has the same name as this video) it’s on this site. In that update I was cleaner on the load tests. Those tests are reliable troubleshooting this problem. Just read it and comprehend what’s going on there.
Secondly, there is a kit out there for this fixing this single click issue, it’s called the Suzuki samurai clicking starter fix kit (RUclips it), or something like that. It’s like 20 or 30 bucks. I like this kit for beginners, because it comes with instructions.
So go find my other video and and watch it, and when your vehicle has the click problem do the load tests I suggest.
Post back if you have any problems or still don’t understand.
I have a suzuki gn250 1989. I think this is the issue on mine. All the lights, etc. are fine. Full battery
Yeah, most likely you’re right. There’s a repair kit on the market, it either sold under the title Mitsubishi or Suzuki - cranking (starting) fix problem. Or something similar to that. RUclips has some stuff on it. It’s an all-in-one kit. It has everything you need, including instructions. It’s cheap around $20, as I recall.
What causes multiple click sounds when pressing start?
Multiple clicking almost always comes back to a bad or under charged battery.
Good job! My 302 V8 is giving me a hard time to start. However, problem is slightly different since there is no click sound, nothing. Then after the tenth attempt it cranks and starts normally. What can it be?
302’s are Fords. Fords don’t get the clicking problem. This video is for Chevy type designed starters, very different. Don’t let the fact I used a sw-3 ( ford starter solenoid ) confuse you.
Learn what and how the sw-3 works, your Ford cranking issue could be there.
Also learn how to figure out (bad) neutral safety switches, or clutch pedal switches for standard transmissions. The problem could be there as well.
Mine is a Ford Maverick Grabber, manual transmission. Do you happen to know where the Neutral safety switch is located? Thankss!!
With manual transmissions the neutral safety switch is located on the clutch pedal. But in manual transmissions it’s not called a neutral safety switch.
I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa fe with a clicking problem. Sometimes when I start it I heard the clicking sound and when I repeat it like 10 to 20 times, the engine starts. Other times I could start it one time only and it works. Could it be the wiring on the primary??? Please help
Sure, first it has to be just a single click, nothing else.
In this video I suggest two tests to make sure you have this problem, well in an updated to this video, it has the same name as this video, in that video (it’s in this site) I’m much clearer what to do and look for. So if you car doesn’t dump the loads, meaning if they still operate, than yes you a problem in the primary wiring. Watch the updated video and try the test. Also on that video I put up a schematic to make things easier. There’s also a kit on the market to fix this issue, it’s called the Suzuki samurai clicking starter fix, or something like that, it comes with instructions. Post back if you have problems.
My started developed the classic 'Click no start'', I got the starter out and proceeded with the bench test, TEST 1, Negative to the case and positive to the positive terminal 1 on the starter, Result Solenoid works and motor does not spin, TEST 2, Negative to the case and positive terminal 2 on the starter, Result Starter works perfectly and so does the solenoid when power is supplied to the signal post, What could be the issue ? is it the armature , solenoid, Bendix or the brushes. I was told if the armature is shorted , it would never spin.
I’m a little confused because you never actually called out that you tested *any* terminal / post on the solenoid. For your test 1 you used the word *starter not solenoid.* i’m not being picky here, I try not to assume things, like what you described as “terminal 1”, which is probably the primary post terminal on the solenoid, but I can’t be certain, or certain of the configuration of your starter with its solenoid. So do this.
Negative is always connected to the case below, so I’m not gonna mention it. And you have to use *jumper cables* in these test.
Testing primary, test 1: With the starter out and the positive side of the jumper cables jumped (you can use any small wire for this) to the primary key side terminal/post on the *solenoid,* that’s the one the small wire essentially from your key connects to. If the *starter motor* doesn’t actually spin here, than your solenoid is probably jacked. This can easily be tested, because no voltage will be getting through to the large secondary posts (battery side) on either the solenoid or the starter. You can use a simple test light to prove that, you don’t need a voltmeter. *If your solenoid is working correctly voltage will pass through the solenoid and appear at the large secondary posts, typically spinning the motor.*
Testing secondary test 1: With the positive side of the jumper cables jumped (with a screwdriver or something) *to either* the large (secondary) posts on the solenoid or the starter, and this spins the starter motor, then there isn’t anything wrong with the motor portion itself. And if the Motor were shorted you would just get a bunch of sparks when you made this connection, and it wouldn’t spin.
I think what threw me off the most about your post is, in your test 1 you said the solenoid worked, but the motor didn’t spin. I went into detail here because I can’t be certain for sure from your post if the solenoid actually finished its job or not.
I think you probably have the issue this video addresses, and you’re Over thinking it. So both of these tests will pass, meaning the problem is in the primary wiring of the vehicle.
If you still can’t figure it out, post back, but don’t use “terminal 1 or terminal 2” terminology, use “primary” and “secondary” instead. I have to know exactly what wires you’re talking about.
But If it turns out your solenoid is jacked, you weren’t overthinking it.
Thanks for the post.
@@apolouo Thank you for the quick reply, below I have rephrased my issue, hope this helps.
With the battery negative grounded to case of the starter
Testing primary circuit, test 1:
Positive to the primary post/terminal on the solenoid, and supplying power to the signal post/terminal (ignition) on the solenoid.
Result Solenoid works and the motor does spin occasionally but not always, hence the click sound with no spinning of the motor.
Would this mean that the solenoid is clicking but not completing its function?
TEST 2, Secondary circuit
Secondary circuit is perfect as the motor spins every single time. which would mean the armature is perfect.
I was told it is the armature, had it been the armature, the secondary circuit would not work at all, I guess my issue is in the primary circuit. however I can't pinpoint the issue as the solenoid always clicks in the primary circuit but most of the time the motor does not spin.
Perfect description! Simple, if *every time* the positive side of the jumper cables is jumped to ( you can use any small wire for this) the primary terminal on the solenoid, *and this is important.* voltage always flows through the solenoid (that test light thing I was talking about in my first post) But the Motor *doesn’t spin every time,* then your motor is what’s jacked, but it’s not a short in the motor, it’s a sporadic open In the windings or something.
I can’t stress how important the above test light test is in solving your issue. So on the occasional time the motor doesn’t spin. Check to see if voltage is passing through to the solenoid, i.e. going to the secondary side of the solenoid getting to the motor, *This test is the clincher.* But it is still possible your solenoid is whats jacked, this test is what will determine that.
Most of the time, because starters are typically sold with solenoids, guys just go out and buy a starter, but I guess sometimes solenoids can be purchased separately. Anyway, but it sounds like to me you just really want to know what exactly is causing the problem. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. That’s how I got good.
Thanks for the post.
@@apolouo Thank you! I will perform these, test's and post the results
xMech pls check this video on the starter with the click no start ruclips.net/video/I5OsIMCr0xk/видео.html
Hello xMech, I get all you say, except for the "I" pin left out. Doesn't it stand for IGNITION? Other sources say second small pin is for ground. If it is for Ignition, and the ignition switch wire goes to S (start) on relay, then where does the "I" pin stand in all this? Could you pls clarify this for me, thanks!!
The “I” terminal does stand for Ignition, but It’s an power out terminal unlike the “S” (start) which is an power in terminal.
The “S” terminal is what energizes the solenoid, so that’s the one you’ll want the wire coming from the neutral safety switch going to.
The “l” terminal when cranking supplies 12 volts to I think it was to the coil for extra oomph or something during cranking. So it doesn’t figure into the application here. More about the “I” terminal in a minute.
The reason I modeled this type Ford starter solenoid (Sw3) even though it fits earlier (older) model vehicles is because the mounting bracket supplies it’s ground, so there’s less wiring work to do. All Ford solenoids have to be grounded. And no the “I” terminal definitely isn’t for the a ground wire, wired that way would probably create a short inside the sw3 during cranking. Ignore anyone who tells you to ground that terminal! on this year sw3.
I believe some of the late (newer) model sw3’s do require wiring up a ground. Probably asking for any Ford starter solenoid from 1985-90 back will resemble the one I modeled. And the simple act of mounting it, as long as it’s to metal, grounds it.
Hope this answers your question.
@@apolouo Sure did, thank you so much for clearing that for me.
I have installed everything brand new on a Ford and when I touch the positive cable to the battery with the negative hooked up, the starter engages and spins the motor, even if the ignition is turned off, what could be my trouble?
If both your sw-3 (starter solenoid) and ignition both engage with key out, when you touch the connect the battery, then the problem has to be up stream of the sw-3, in a component that there is a connection with the ignition system and the sw-3. I sure would suspect the ignition switch here.
If that is also new, let me know
xMech yes it's all new
So what your saying is, once you connect the battery, the car starts itself, even if some random homeless guy had your keys?
Year and model of the ford?
This one has my interest, email me at xmech@att.net
Please heeeeeelp,
My car won't start, all lights works great, hear click Everytime I turn the key. I took the starter to AutoZone they checked it, it pass. Checked the battery too, works fine. Replaced the relay, the ignition switch, the neutral switch and ITS STILL WONT START!!! tested the wires all has voltage. I'm thinking the auto zone has bad test machine! Still thinking it's the starter. Please advise. Thanks
Well, you said you replaced the “relay” I’m assuming it’s not a Ford and your car does have a starter relay.
You also said you checked “all” the wires and they have power. If this includes the small solenoid wire going to the solenoid from the ignition switch, and it is the starter that’s clicking, then you probably have the problem I did this video for.
If all the above stuff is true rewatch this video again and at 1:52 into the video make this jump on your own vehicle. Your vehicle will probably crank. If it does crank (starters crank, they don’t start anything) then the problem is resistance in the small solenoid wire, *not a complete open* in the wire. The wire only *seems* to test good, but really isn’t.
In my other video “The A to Z why your starter clicks” there is also another test (running a long wire from your battery + to your solenoid, you call also try. Get back to me and let me know if all my assumptions were correct.
*The important point here is, get 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid from a different source other than the wire that is being used now, and see what happens.*
BYW, Your starter is probably good, leave the guys at Auto Zone alone. :-)
I changed the battery after using it for 6 months only, then tried to start the car after 3-4 times it starts.
I watched the Video, and
I have put the lights on and start the car, it starts normally without any clicks. IT is like there is no fault. But when I turn it off and try to start without the light on it doesn't start, I hear a click. ( I think it might be the wiring, )
I'm guessing you changed the battery because of this problem. I'm also guessing this isn't a Ford.
You said after 3-4 try's it starts, what's happening during these 3-4 no starting attempts? If you're hearing a loud single click, but doesn't crank, you have the single click solenoid issue.
This load test (turning on lights) you used, is only helpful if you use it at the (time of hearing the click.)
It was probably a coincidence, your car cranked during your test. As you said, it does sometimes crank.
Do this, sit in the car turn the key until you hear the click sound, then turn off the key and turn on the heater motor, wipers, and lights. Then turn the key again, if it only clicks (once) and doesn't crank, you need a SW 3.
But if it starts with these loads on, the test is invalid, the problem didn't happen.
Again, you have to apply this load test when the click sound is duplicated.
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I've noticed no one has ever quizzed me on the jumping of the battery cable at the starter to the solenoid wire at the starter. This is actually the final an important part of spanking this cranking problem, that's getting you stuck everywhere.
If I put a meter between the red secondary and the frame shouldn't I get a reading of 12 volts? I don't.
Absolutely you should. The red + battery cable should be hot at the starter. If that’s what you’re talking about.
Tell me the exact issue you’re having.
Interesting but I think my problem is the starter. It started to click and not turn over a couple of weeks ago then it would turn over occasionally but it finally stopped altogether. Before it stopped working it was spinning over great, really fast and with a new battery and alternator the car was never better, but this problem was not happening over a long period of time about two weeks. Well gonna pull it out and check the brushes and the starter is 22 years old so it could be that.
The reason I suggested jumping the solenoid in this video, was so you wouldn’t have to think. If your starter works every time making that jump, it’s not the starter. But on the other hand, if your starter is still jacked after making this jump, you know it’s the starter.
Thanks for posting...
@@apolouo I was gonna try that but the back of the solenoid is covered in a big plastic block with lots of little push in connectors that have rubber covers. I don't know why cause the starter sits on top of the gearbox (front wheel drive car east west motor) so it's not like it needs to be waterproof, anyway I have some nice heavy wire from a busted jumper lead set that should do the trick, here's hoping Sunday brings some nice weather and I don't zap myself. Thanks.
so what if i have a starter that is doing multiple ticks (not exactly ticks but as a mechanic i think you know the noise i'm trying to describe) instead of a single click? battery is good. it's a 95 e450 i believe
This is a Ford right? Fords are troubleshot differently. That’s because, they don’t actually have a starter solenoid. (The thing) that generates the click sound on non-Ford cranking systems. They come pre-wired with a Ford starter solenoid, which is really closer to a relay, than it is closer to a solenoid. And sometimes relays clatter.
Here is what I suggest you do. With one side of a set of *jumper cables* jump the two large terminals on the starter solenoid aka (the sw3.) If your truck cranks every time here, there are three possibilities: there is a problem with the solenoid, it’s ground, or the primary circuit is never actually kicking in. This test essential takes the sw3 out of the cranking circuit. It really is a good test.
But, If you get the same result, multiple clicking, you could have a loose cable connection, or possibly even a bad starter. Everything above assumes your battery is really actually good.
Jump around your SW3 like I suggest, and let me know what happens.
xMech yes ford. thanks. will report back on saturday. busy till the weekend.
I have this issues of my truck not having any power going and coming from the ignition switch won't start, I'm thinking it's a ground issue, or sylender
The elephant in the room here is, no ‘power’ getting to the ignition switch.
If you don’t have 12 volts getting to your ignition switch, most of this video is irrelevant to you.
Saying you don’t have an in and out of 12 volts at the ignition switch through to the solenoid, is a whole different thing than actually having that. It’s been my experience, If there is an open causing a problem, it’s usually a problem between the ignition switch and the solenoid. Or the ignition switch itself.
If you really don’t have power in at the ignition switch your problem is before the ignition switch. Look for openings between your switch and your battery.
Good, clear CGI!
Thanks
Having this problem with my 1966 c10 when it's a cold start I have no issue.. after I run it for a while & turn it off.. I try to start it up it clicks 3 times then starts.. I've tried 2 new starters, plus my old one, I have a new battery.. changed out the cables & ignition switch.. I guess I can try this 🤦♂️
This will fix it. After you do this, your starter will jolt to life on each turn of the key, angles will actually sing when you hear this the first time.
.
Your video doesn't highlight the other click-only, high frequency failure, where the copper conductor at the end of the moving solenoid plunger can't complete the circuit between the primary post and the secondary post, because of 2 common factors; 1, there is too much mechanical resistance (rust or dried up grease) which prevents the plunger from shot-gunning smoothly through the bore of the solenoid, or, 2. because the copper contacts and/or the plunger conductor has worn so much from repetitive impact at each start cycle, it cannot make a sound connection anymore. This is the reason people should TURN OFF ECO-MODE on their vehicles....you are almost guaranteed premature starter failure.
Well, as stated at the beginning of the video, the issue here is one effecting early model vehicles, not late models.
Also, your description of problems wouldn’t reproduce if the starter (always coming with a solenoid) was replaced. But that’s what going on here. New starter - still have the same problem. That tells me the problem isn’t in the starter.
I have an issue with a 2003 explorer so if I can eliminate the starter relay and put this beside because i Start my explorer i opened the relay pushing one side of the relay to power the starter so if i make it from out side of the fuse box could work.
Just going over old post and saw this one for the first time. Not really sure want you’re asking here, but I’d like to help if the problem still exists.
Great video, I have a 2001 pathfinder with just a clicking sound from the solenoids, took the starter out and had it tested and it’s fine, I figured out the small wire that gets plugged into the starter isn’t getting any juice, for now I ran a wire from the small starter wire up by the battery, so when I want to start my truck I have to turn the key on and touch that wire to the battery and it starts. I don’t know what the problem could be between the key and that small wire on the starter. Any help is greatly appreciated.
If your ignition switch wire ( that’s the small wire you’re talking about) isn’t getting ANY juice, then you wouldn’t be getting a click sound from the starter solenoid.
You need to be 100% sure this wire doesn’t have juice at crank time. My experience tells me it probably does, but at a lower current then designed. This video was created to alleviate the problem I just described, by installing a sw-3. (Ford starter solenoid)
If you really don’t have juice at the starter small wire during crank time, the first thing I would check would be the neutral safety switch. If this turns out the neutral safety switch is the problem, then you’re mistaken about the solenoid making a click sound.
xMech you’re right. I didn’t mean the solenoid, I meant I only hear a clicking sound from a couple of different relays under the hood and the dash. I can’t seem to find a starter relay for this vehicle. Also right before I shut the truck off and it never started again I noticed the green lights on the dash that are always lit that show if it’s in 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive weren’t lit anymore and it wouldn’t go into 4 wheel drive. I don’t know if it’s just coincidence or it’s connected. But I’m definitely not getting juice to the solenoid wire. Could it be the neutral/park relay? Thank you very much.
If you checked the small wire for juice when your key (wasn’t) turned to the start position, then that’s your problem. Juice (your word) only flows in the small solenoid wire when the key is turned to the start position.
xMech I had the volt meter hooked up to the neg on the battery then plugged it into the solenoid wire while my brother tried to crank the car and nothing happened, but when I touched the big wire that comes from the battery it showed 12 volts. I am assuming it’s something from the key to the solenoid wire, because it’s starting no problem with the wire I have plugged into the solenoid wire and then touch the pos on the battery. Thank you again.
Ok, so you are 100% sure there is no flow in the starter solenoid wire when the key is in the start position, correct?
If this is the case, you need to check your neutral safety switch. Both standard and automatic have something.
That clicking sound, if it’s coming from relays could be normal, all kinds of electrical things ran by relays turn on when you turn the key. This probably doesn’t mean anything. The reason you’re probably hearing the relays is because you’re starter isn’t cranking in the engine.
Very clear instruction thank you.
Hope it’s helpful
I just did an engine swap and now I am having the ''no crank'' issue. I tested the starter on the car, the solenoid activated and cranks the flywheel/crank and all pulleys. I get in the car, put the key in and turn all the way and just the lights(abs/check engine/battery) come on and a relay clicks but no cranking. WTF. I am stumped and I know it is something simple. Can someone share some info?
Well, you never actually said you have a starter click issue. It could be a starter click issue, but it also could be no power getting to the solenoid from the ignition switch. And the relay sound you’re hearing should be there, you’re just not used to hearing it because the engine cranks.
First determine if you have power at the small wire at the solenoid while cranking.
Relays sounds and solenoid sounds are different.
Why don't you just need to replace the primary wire?
The primary wiring starts at the battery maybe goes to the fuse box, or maybe a fusible link, then to the ignition switch, then to the neutral safety switch, then to the solenoid. Which wires are you going to change? It’s common for the resistance to be across the whole chain of wires. And talking about changing primary wires, is a whole different thing than actually going into looms and replacing them.
In this video for simplicity sake I showed the primary wiring as a single wire, it doesn’t work that way.
I ran into that problem with a 93 Chevy 1500 series 5.7 l once it gets hot it will not start so I added an extra shield to the solenoid problem was solved
Hi, I'm having the same issue. Can you explain in a bit more detail what you mean by solenoid "shield"? Thanks
Yeah heat can cause this problem, but that’s usually on vehicles with headers that aren’t OEM.
I have a 1991nisson300zx and when they replaced the starter they strip a bolt. Now when I start it it makes a clicking sound when it's running sometimes WHAT can it b ???
Are the mounting bolts parallel or perpendicular to the road?
If parallel they may have through bolted your starter in, which means you could have a nut and some and part of a bolt intruding near your Flexplate, and the Flexplate could be hitting the through bolt.
If this is the problem, ask the dude who did the work, if he can spell helicoil.
ON solenoid wich side goes with the wire of the 15 AMP fuse side A or B ?
Your post is a little hard to understand. You have a ford, which comes stock with a SW3 (ford starter solenoid) but it sounds like you want to remove your OEM solenoid and install a different one. Not sure if I understand your point.
The fuse would go on side of the sw3 that’s always hot.
I'm looking for any insight you can give..
We have a 2003 Mercedes Vaneo, last week whilst ticking over at traffic lights the car suddenly stopped, thought it'd stalled and tried to turn it over. There was no click or crank. All lights in the dash were on.. it won't start on a bump and the battery is fine, it's had a new starter a year ago.. but it won't bump at all.. any ideas what could be the issue?
Thanks
+Mellifluous Girl:
You need to see google if your vehicle has fusible links, if it does, the problem will be in fusible link that supplies the ignition and the primary side of the starter.
xMech thank you, someone mentioned something to do with the immobiliser- could this be true. All lights come on- on the dash when the key is in both positions but not even a click..
Also should the car still bump start if this is the issue?
First, do the dash lights dim or go off when the ignition switch is in the starters crank position, probably not. What this means is, you can try to jump (bump) start it all day long, it won't crank. Second, do you really have both an ignition, and a cranking problem, with working dash lights, not that common.
If I were troubleshooting this vehicle, the first thing I would do is, jump the two terminals on the starter, with the ignition switch in the run position. If it starts, you only have a starter primary wiring problem, but if it cranks, but doesn't start, you truly do have an ignition, and cranking problem.
Common areas of these two circuits is the ignition switch, possible fusible links, and the immobilizer, whatever that is. Other than the ignition switch, these two circuits usually don't have much association with each other. This is why you need to eliminate any possibility your engine dying, is unrelated to it not cranking. Understand that not cranking, is a very different thing, than not starting.
Often, troubleshooting is eliminating what's not busted.
Nice try, but... A low battery, a corroded battery terminal, weak alternator or loose connection left un-repaired for weeks or months slowly lowers the current available to the starter which can result in the switch plates inside the Solenoid part of the Starter to oxidize, corrode and arc over leaving carbon deposits on the "high current" switch plates! A click and no spin is the "sign". Even if the battery is good! Jumping with another car can add more amperage to these "coated switch plates" and potentially start your vehicle... but your Solenoid is still shot and is usually attached to the starter and not a separate piece. If you accidentally hook up the Hot wire from the battery to the terminal of the solenoid that is already hooked via a bar to the inside of the Starter Motor, as soon as you replace the last terminal back on the battery, the starter motor will spin with no key on and burn up the starter motor over the next 5 minutes!!! This can be a good way to test the solenoid only and start you car in an emergency even if the Solenoid has failed. The Hot wire from the battery to the starter must be removed as soon as the car starts. (not for the novice) Think of the starting circuit as the only reason you have a battery and keep it clean and secure.
I see you wrote a book, that was probably a mistake. I'm busy right now. Let me go to your logic, and I'll get back to you.
BYW, Bringing the necessity to verify the alternator, is a hobbyist mistake.
The video Indicates when the +battery cable at the solenoid is jumped to starter terminal at the solenoid, if it cranks, your secondary cool.
And your battery is part of your secondary, so It's being charged. This jump in essence verifies your alternator.
Going to alternator after this jump is the wasted step.
You're in the tall weeds here...
xMech Could that wire cause a battery to die overnight?
I have a 2006 Ford Escape with a 3.0 motor that here lately in the morning or even after just a hour it can randomly be so drained that lights still come on & i hear the vehicle trying to turn over. Normally if i jump the vehicle it'll start right of the bat. But I've tried multiple batteries that were checked at a local shop testing good.
I have a idea something is just draining the power even while it is off. Any thoughts would be awesome
Sounds like a drain. If you get yourself a automotive test light and remove the negative cable from your battery, then connect the test light in between the cable and the battery. (Put the clamp side of the test light on the negative post and the pointed end for the tester touch to the end of the loose negative cable) Now if the light lights normally, then it’s picking up a drain. Start removing fuses and relays until the light goes out. Then you’ll know at least what circuit the drain is on.
Most cars courtesy lights go on even with on key in the ignition, so if you have the drivers door open (while pulling fuses) this can mimic a drain on the test light. All you need to do is tape the courtesy switch in the door jam down, like the door isn’t really open.
A drain that can in an hour pretty much kill your battery, is a big drain, shouldn’t be that hard to find.
Something to be said about layman's terms. Good job
Not that hard to get the idea across, been fixing this problem since the mid 80s.
@@apolouo my 1985 buick regal is making no click sound nothing at all when I take starter off it works if I touch the contact with battery cable but not if I install in car please help
The small primary wire connected to the solenoid, check it for power when trying to crank. My guess is there is no power. If you don’t have power there you probably have a bad neutral safety switch, it’s the switch on the transmission that keeps it from cranking in gear. It’s also possible a bad ignition switch is the issue. The power flow of the primary wire is, battery -> ignition switch -> neutral safety switch -> solenoid.
If you do have power there, but it still doesn’t crank, let me know that, I’ll need to ask some questions.
@@apolouo thank you for responding I will check that .
@@apolouo so. I checked the small wire for current with light tester and it came on .I just re installed the engine every thing is better or as it was, the only thing I haven't done is fill the transmission pan with oil might that be the reason???
I will check all of your vids... respect... tnx for the help, it’s for my mv agusta. Same principle with car starter relay.. 👍🏼
Wow, a motorcycle that’s different. If it does end up you need to install a Relays/solenoid because of a single click starter issue. Sears riding lawnmowers have a much smaller version of the sw-3. That’s a badass looking motorcycle, I would install the smallest solution as possible.
Your voice must be something terrific it would have been okay even if you read your signs I was a real good video simple
Terrific means very good
Horrific?
Not dubbing in audio saves time.
Hey guys, I needing some help, I got a 2000 Toyota Tacoma 3.4 liter v6 truck, it's got a new alternator, starter, and battery and when I got the new starter on it just click 1 time but u can hear the start spending but that's it but if I jump it off with another vehicle it cranks up like nothing is wrong. Any ideas on what this could be?
Jumping your truck isn’t going to supply any additional current to your primary side, but if one or both battery cables terminals were loose, that could explain your problem.
If both cables are tight- verify this, your saying when you try to crank your truck you get a single click, well when do you hear the starter spinning? if you keep the key held down?
If you want this problem fixed tell me everything about this spinning starter, and click noise. Starters that spin but don’t spin the engine are usually bad, but that’s obviously not the case with you, because jumping your truck cranks your starter just fine.
Yes, when I turn truck on it just click one time and when I hold the key down, u can hear the starter just a spinning, but I know it's good bc it starts up when I jump it off, the only thing i can c is something somewhere is lose
This would be a bit atypical, so I need to be sure you’re a 100% sure the sound you’re hearing when you’re holding the key down after the Single click (is The starter spinning), and not a fuel pump, relay, etc... noise coming from the engine compartment.
Because your engine hasn’t started but you still have your key held to crank position all sorts of electrical components will be working, and without the sound of a running engine you might be misinterpreting these sounds as a spinning starter.
I went through all that because this is a very important distinction to be made here, in order to fix your problem.
Yes, I'm sure it's the starter bc I went an unplugged it and truck didn't make any sound besides that 1 click. But like I said when I jump it off it cranks right up like nothing was wrong.
If you unplugged the small wire going to the starter and still heard the click, then the clicking sound you’re reporting (you think is coming from the starter) isn’t, it can’t be, your starter wasn’t connected to your ignition switch in order to make the click sound. It’s just a relay or something fooling you.
You reporting a starter single click and also a spinning starter motor, would make this a primary and secondary problem combined, which almost can’t happen. Anyway...
You have a secondary problem. Now on the right path I need to know something before continuing. With the key held in the crank position (starter spinning) is there a loss of electricity to any of the vehicle associated with this. What I mean by this is, does your heater, horn, wipers, head lights, etc... bog down or stop working if you tried them while the starter is spinning, and the key is in the crank position? turn these loads on and find out.
Hi I have a ride on mower which is clicking very fast however is not turning. The lights bog down (turn off completely) when cranking, so this means it's in one of those secondary connections. I have 2 questions:
1) Does the fast clicking mean the starter is working and the problem is likely with the solenoid?
2) My starter solenoid has 2 big poles and two small poles. One small pole is green and one is red. When I unplug the red small pole the fast clicking doesnt happen. Which small pole do I have to bridge with the big one to start the engine?
Thank you.
Riding mowers have what essentially is, a Ford cranking system.
1. Fast clicking (rapid clicking) is a symptom of low battery voltage, a voltage drop, bad starter solenoid, or lastly a bad starter.
Most of the time, low battery voltage is the cause. We'll take them one at a time
The first thing you need to do, is check the battery surface charge. disconnect both cables, and measure the voltage, you should have 12.4-12.6 Volts.
a) If the battery is below 12.3, it's either under charged, or it's bad. Any surface charge below 12.3 volts, before continuing, you have to attempt to recharge the battery.
If after a few hours on a trickle charger, you can't get it above 12.3, the battery is bad.
b) If the surface charge is 12.4 or above, you need to reconnect the cables, and check the voltage at the battery (posts) when it's clicking.
b 1) if the voltage at the battery (posts) falls below 10.5 while clicking, your battery is bad.
b 2) if the battery (posts) voltage stays above 12.3 but still continues the clicking, you ether have a, loose connection at one of the starter cables, bad battery ground, bad sw-3, or possible bad starter, but it's last on the list.
To eliminate the sw-3 (starter solenoid) as a problem, see if both large solenoid terminals react the same way to a voltage reading, or a 12 volt test light test, (while clicking, or cranking for that matter). If they do, the sw-3 is fine.
2. Step back, and look at what you have. The solenoid (sw-3) has two large terminals, one connects it to the battery, the other connects it to the starter.
So if you wanted to bypass all the cables and the sw-3, (to check the starter), you would use actual car jumper cables; connect one red to the + battery, the other red to the large terminal directly on the starter. (sometimes hard to get to)
This jump effectively connects the starter to the battery, so if you get the clicking with this jump made, your starter was the problem the whole time.
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The small red wire you removed to stop the clicking, is the small terminal of the sw-3, the ignition switch uses to trigger the connection of the starter to the battery, through the large terminals.
By removing this wire, you cut off, the solenoid, the starter, all it's cables, from your ignition switch. That's why it stopped clicking.
Wow, I honestly wasn't expecting an informative step-by-step guide. Thank you so much for this. I never have time during the week I'm going to get onto this as soon as I can and I'll keep you posted. Subbed btw.
Just some confusion I'm having with this part "This jump effectively connects the starter to the battery, so if you get the clicking with this jump made, your starter was the problem the whole time."
So if it's still clicking doesnt that mean the starter is working? Is the starter the thing making the fast clicking or is that the ignition?
Thanks again.
Your questions left out an important factor, what's the voltage doing?
If you make this jump, and it just clicks:
a) If the battery post voltage dumps below 10.5, your battery is under charged or bad, you haven't really tested the starter. In a cranking circuit, under 10.5 volts, the power supply has effectively failed. You can't trust a starter test at these voltages.
To answer your question, yes the clicking sound can be coming from the starter, but that doesn't mean it's the problem. Electrical motors do funny things when they don't get enough power supplied.
b) If the battery post voltage doesn't take a hit with the clicking sound, i.e. remains in the mid 12's. You put you clubs back in your toolbox, and sale the customer a new starter. Because, this starter is jacked, it won't allow any flow of current from the existing power supply path, or a new/different power supply path. i.e. the jumper cable.
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If you make this jump, and the starter cranks:
Your battery post voltage probably stayed above 10.5 volts, and now the starter works with this different power supply path. So, You've just whittled it down to a problem in the existing starter power supply path. Because, if your remove the jumper cable, and use the key, it just clicks again, but when you supply a different power supply path, through say a jumper cable, it works!
The above scenario is kind of on the rare end of finds, it gets into loose cables and voltage drops, which is probably not your problem.
Your problem is probably a battery issue, make sure you have a strong battery, and see if it will start, don't be surprised if it does. But, if a known good battery doesn't fix it, then make the battery to starter jump, and work the problem.
Ok so just an update:
The battery read 12.19 V and when cranking it dropped down to 5-6 volts. Just like you said it's most likely the battery. I just charged the battery anyways just to see if it would do anything. It got to 13.9 V however it was still dropped to 6V when cranking. I am going to test a working car battery to see if it will start it now.
95 ford ranger, turned on lights heater fan, radio. lights didn't dim at all but fan and radio bogged down. is it just sw3 bad? (oh and i just hear one click. i guess from the sw3?) also new battery. your opinion?
The test with checking to see if stuff bogs down or quits working is meant for starters with solenoids. Yours is a Ford.
The test is checking for a connection loose enough to stop the flow of juice in the secondary (large battery cables.) And usually the entire system dumps, especially high demand things like the head light.
But you have a Ford. Here’s how to troubleshoot a Ford:
If you have juice at the small terminal of the SW3 while trying to crank, all your primary is cool, move on.
Next, with one side of *actual jumper cables* jump the two large terminals on the sw3, if this cranks your starter, then your sw3 is bad, or it’s has a grounding issue. I’ve found more bad grounds at sw3’s then actually bad sw3’s.
If your starter doesn’t crank, and you hear the click sound with this jump made, you either have a very loose connection on one of the battery cables, or your starter is bad. Here on Fords I would check the connections first.
Let me know if this helps.
plus , what not is mentioned [ well slightly ] is the ground wire that is attached to the fire wall to the ground wire to the battery terminal, that wire itself gets fully corroded. what that does is less'n that current flow and causes the starter to engage again after starting the engine [ yes , the engine will be at idle ] , and it will kill the solenoid on the starter . .
aka . . . damage it to it being non-functional.
to fix that , remove that cable from the terminal and from the firewall.
replace it with a new cable ( 12 gauge [ for current purposes to hold a better ground] ) .
check all the wire connections from the battery to the starter and to the ignition switch [ because dirt flies around inside the cab of the vehicle, and outside, the wire is exposed to the elements ]
sand off the paint from the firewall where the ground cable came from, install new ground cable, tighten screw and spray paint it with transparent paint so you can see the clean metal and the wire connection.
reattach the cable to the negative terminal .
remove the ground cable from the frame of the truck, car, vehicle. clean the wire end, remove the paint or rust from the frame
reinstall the cable to the frame , spray paint it to see the clear connection and to seal off the elements from the weather.
reattach the ground cable to the battery, and you will be ready for the road.
a corroaded grounding cable will make a mess of starters and sw3's .
Will update you. I am going to get a new starter relay later. I tried jumping the starter, it tried to crank the starter up, so probably, the primary of the relay is the culprit.. cheers!
Cool
I have a Honda trx 450er and my quad would make this weird noise and wouldn’t start up.
I took it to the shop paid 500$ for a new starter clutch. But the problem was still there but very little.
I also got a new battery. ANYONE know what it could be ? Please help
I’m not a motorcycle guy but I took a few minutes and watched a couple videos. I assume the shop installed a *kit*, the kits included the transfer gear above the starter clutch, if they just installed the starter clutch, that was a mistake. That transfer gear is two moving parts, a worn one of these could cause a noise on start.
There’s a lot going on inside these engine when starting. There’s a clutch pressure plate that spins, a gear behind that meshes with starter clutch.
What I would do if I were you is buy an automotive stethoscope, they’re cheap. From all the videos out there of the inside of the engines you can see where the location of all these things are in relation to the case. Then with the *ignition disabled* crank the thing and see if you can tell what area of the case the noise is coming from. That’s the best I can do here, good luck.
But what if this click only happens randomly, the it does it once or 7 times in a row and then fires up. The next time works fine again for 4-5 starts then will click once or mayber three times before cranking???
That’s exactly how it works. There’s usually a randomness to the click no crank problem. You have this problem. Just do the load test, and make the jump at the solenoid I suggest in the video. You will see.
That said, you are the first person to bring up the random factor of this problem.
@@apolouo Dealer tried replacing starter, solenoid, ignition switch and wanted to do entire harness next.....So it sounds like after testing I will have to replace the start wire at the switch that runs to the solenoid. Tractor is not that old so not sure if the wiring is just cheap or ?. Having a fuel solenoid shut off problem as well when it gets warm. Found it's contacts at the plug corroded and replacing it now - Again, not that old so not sure what's up.... Thanks for the help and Great videos!!!!
You need to get as far away from those mechanics as possible.
an hour from home, had to buy a new starter cuz original was smoking. also replaced altenator. car started and drove us home 1 hr.
45 mins in, the electronics started dying out until i had no dash lights needles all flat and no power steering. finally pulled in my driveway and parked.
next day, pulled battery out (9 month old battery) fully charged it. put battery back in and all i get is the single click.
radio, lights, wipers all working.
2005 chevy cobalt 2.2 automatic
starter worked day before 10 times after being replaced. now, single clicking. any thoughts xMech?
Your problem now, a signal click, no other loads effected, is a classic starter primary wiring issue, It's why I made this animation. That said, there could be some variables with this vehicle. When did the smoking starter smoke, on crank, or just driving down the road? The answer to this question is important!
~~~~~~~~~~~~
If the starter only smoked on crank, you probably only had a bad starter. And it sounds like the new alternator never worked. If you changed the alternator for a starter that only smoked on crank, that was a mistake.
If this is the case, I would follow what this movie says, jump the two terminals on the solenoid, with ignition on . If you can get it running, pull the NEG. cable of the battery and see if the engine dies. If it does, your alternator was installed wrong, or it was defected new.
If the starter was smoking while driving down the road, be careful with this vehicle. And let me know that this was the case. And have your battery tested.
If you really do have a primary problem after you changed the starter, on what originally was a secondary issue. That could be a little troubling.
Gas golf cart won't go
At 2002 Chevy suburban will not start with the key Getting our to relay but not going to starter
Starting is a very different thing than cranking, starters just crank, they don't start anything. Your English is braking up, and because Chevys don't use a relay in their cranking system (assuming you're not talking about the solenoid), I not sure what your trying to say.
I will be glad to help, but I need to understand exactly what your problem is... Can you find a way to use better English.
The contraction for "they are" is not "their", it is "they're".
I’m dyslexic, thanks tho...
This is vid on starter problems, not an English lesson!
We all understand the message! Except you it seems.
Are you going to comment on his improper use of comma's too? Or just learn about why the starter just clicks but wont turn over the engine like the rest of us.
troll
WOW ! I am glad the grammar police done showed up in here as this is where I go to school to git my ejection from !
Awesome informative video. Thanks! Subbed
Just going over old posts, sometimes I miss some, just saw your post. Thanks man.
I turn the key, no click, no crank, no start.
I turn on the headlights, turn the key, lights don't dim, no click, no crank, no start.
I checked the fuses. All fuses and relay good.
I installed new starter with new solenoid. Same issues. I even bought a new battery at the beginning of this, thinking that my battery was dead.
Any ideas?
First thing you do is jump the two terminals of the solenoid, as seen in this movie, It will probably crank.
Next, check to see if you have 12 volts at the ignition switch terminal of the solenoid, when starter is in the crank position.
You probably won't, if you don't, jiggle the key in the ignition switch when trying to crank, see if that helps.
Your problem is most likely, no voltage in the starters primary wire at crank time:
1.Your starter needs its primary wire connector replaced, sometimes the connector losses contact with the wire.
2. Bad ignition switch.
3.Open wire before or after ignition switch. (which gets back to #1)
But, If you do have 12 volts at the terminal, then make sure your starter is actually grounded.
It sounds to me like you may have a bad neutral safety switch not letting power get to the solenoid. Manual transmissions have it on the clutch pedal. Automatics have it on the side of the transmission. itstillruns.com/test-neutral-safety-switch-7563907.html Some modern cars also have a safety switch on the brake pedal so the brake must be applied while trying to start the engine. If that is bad or misaligned to the pedal it could keep it from starting.
The single click sound is coming from the solenoid! not the neutral safety switch. That means the neutral safety switch is functioning properly. There is never a click sound if the
neutral safety switch remains open.
I would suggest to check for ground using continuity testing, make sure your unit isn’t short to ground
i just installed a new starter on my car with shims and now it wont engage and makes a whirring sound not a clicking sound any thoughts
Did the old starter have shims? Try remove the shims, and see if it cranks the engine.
how do I wire in a (3) pole selenoid?(2 large poles n 1 small)...ty!
The large terminals are for the load, or the stater solenoid in the context of this subject. The small terminal is for the small ignition switch wire, it basically connects the two larger terminals together as long as power is flowing through it.
can u send a diagram of the connections please? TY again!!
Go to 2:06 into this video and look at what’s going on there.
The black wire going to the sw3 (use to connect) to the small terminal on the starter solenoid. You’re just moving it to your new solenoid.
The red 10ga wire supplies power to the new solenoid, it will always be hot.
The brown 10ga wire will engage your starter. This wire is only hot during cranking.
*The black ignition switch wire now triggers the starter through the sw3. The red and brown wires are 10ga upgrades from the sissy ass 12ga black wire that’s causing the click problem.*
I have multiple click. The car doesn't stop to click after I turn the key. It just clicking and it doesn't crank. Audi A8 2008. Pls send help. 😅😅I will go under my car and check the connections between starter solenoid.
First, are you saying your vehicle *continues* clicking after the key is turned off? That doesn’t sound starter related, but rather a problem of low battery voltage. Or some sort of relay program.
Multiple clicking is almost always battery related, usually under charged or bad batteries. This can be determined with a volt meter. If while the clicking is occurring the *battery post* voltage drops below 10.5 the battery is the issue. This assumes you have a good charging system.
But you would almost to have a shorted ignition switch, or a relay stuck on. The latter could also be explained by low batter voltage, too.
One step at a time, you first need to check the *battery post* voltage while the clicking is occurring. If it drops below 10.5 charge or replace the battery.
Let me know what you find out.
@@apolouo thank you man! My car just started lol. I just unplug the battery and plug it back again 😅 but I'm afraid that this will happen again. 😅
How do I measure the battery voltage? Do I just need to put voltmeter on the + and - of the battery? 😅the battery is from 2016
*BATTERY POSTS* not the terminals. Rare but your problem could be a voltage drop between the posts and the terminals. Which is a different thing. But removing the terminal and reinstalling it, could mean that’s what your problem was, a loose cable, i.e. a voltage drop between the post and the terminal.
Still do the test at the *posts* this will tell you if cranking problems are in your future. Oh yeah, if your battery post voltage surface charge, meaning checking your battery post voltage with the car not running, is below 12.5, than the battery is marginal at best.
If a battery fails the surface charge test , below 12.5. And the cranking test, below 10.5 then your battery is a boat anchor.
It's definitely the battery. Now I'm getting a low battery warning on the dashboard. I don't know why I didn't get it earlier. ) I need new battery. Thank you for the fast help man! I'm pretty sure that the alternator is fine.
No start or crank on my Ford expedition...replaced my starter still nothing but clicking noises when I try to start...any suggestions?
Well if your talking about multiple clicking sounds, it all most always come back to a bad or under charged battery.
Your’s is a Ford the problem could also be at the Ford starter relay. If your battery is known good, try jumping the two large terminals on the starter relay with one side of a set of jumper cables. if this starts your car every time, the problem is here, however, I’ve seen many more bad ground problems at these relays, than I’ve actually see bad Ford starter relays.
If the battery is good, and jumping the starter relay as described above, you still here the clicking noise, then there is something wrong with the starter.
@@apolouo yes I will try testing the battery with a multimeter...its pretty old & corroded
@@apolouo I tried swapping batteries with a good one...still wouldn't crank or start 👎
Now use one side of some jumper cables. And jump the two large terminals on the starter relay. See what that does. Let me know
@@apolouo like trying to bypass it? Can I use any 2 wires on the relay to try it out? I'm going to try that tomorrow once I pick up a new battery
FANTASTIC REALLY HELP FULL THANK YOU
Thanks for the post.
So, is this like old Christmas Tree lights in a way or headphones?
The speaker may actually be fine, the connection to it wore down.
If that is true... why not just fix connection instead of replacing the part?
Well, your analogy is a little off. The Christmas lights and headphone thing are caused by opens in a circuit. But the problem here is *resistance* in a circuit, and not an open. And determining where in the primary circuit the resistance is, doesn’t compare to actually going into looms and replacing primary wiring.
Stick a sw3 (Ford starter solenoid) in your Chevy cranking system, and call it good.
thought it was out of gas it went dead and it is not firing still won't start
.
How do I check my solenoid on a 07 Nissan titan my starter is under my intake.
What’s the exact problem your Titan is having?
@@apolouo one click no start and my starters under my intake
I Spent a couple minutes on a RUclips video looking the starter location on this vehicle! On on a V-8, Did they actually really stick the starter at the top of the flex plate? WTF.
This single click problem is bitch, because it gets you stuck. So The easiest solution I can come up with for the vehicle is this.
Find the wiring loom that feed the starter solenoid, it might be accessible under the vehicle. If so Break into it and wire in an SW3. And Instead of supplying the SW3 12 gage from the starter, you could supply them from the battery.
There would be a lot of plumbing gong on here, but it’s doable. I’m not sure if this job is for a hobbyist. But it can be done.
If you don’t understand what I’m saying right me back.
It’s unlikely, the resistance in the primary wire causing this problem, is in the last few feet of the wire that excites the solenoid. So there is a workaround here.
@@apolouo I appreciate your feedback brother. Thanks
@@apolouo I saw that there's a recall on the i.p.d.m. that will cause it to not start also. Ima change that in the morning I found one at a salvage yard.
I have the same problem in my 90 Silverado454. Stock starter will start no problem but randomly after a month it will grind the flex plate. I replaced starter flexplate primary and secondary wires and both ignition switches. New power master will just click,replaced with same power master and still only click. Voltage at SOLONOID wire when cranking is 10.5 is it too low? Reinstalled stock starter and it will start but it made the grinding noise after maybe 5 starts.
If the voltage at the battery is at or above 12.5 when it’s showing 10.5 at the solenoid, then yes, 10.5 at the solenoid is too low, and the two volts difference indicates that primary wiring somewhere from your battery to your solenoid is jacked. You need a sw3. If both, battery post and solenoid drop to 10.5 volts your battery is probably junk.
But the Single click solenoid issue Will not cause grinding. You said you replace The secondary wiring, do you mean, the battery cables?
This could be a combination of needing to increase your voltage i.e. (current) coming from your battery to the solenoid. That’s done by falling this videos. And a grinding issue.
Fixing the grinding: Resistance in the battery cables can cause grinding, tho it’s rare.
On my site I have video called “Dragging starters are a drag” Watch that.
You should always replace the Flexplate and starter as a pair. That way there’s a very low possibility of the grinding continuing, because the starter gear is still jacked a little.
Install an SW3 and get your clicking problem fixed, then Move on to the grinding issue.
Thank s much bro got saint problem my stared change it like 3 time only one year want do Thad can where can got it to buy it got Toyota Corolla sr5 5 speed 1.6 motor coupe thing can work for my car to thank s much you healp wit this
Hey Angle, I think you’re asking for a fix to your problem, read back a few posts on this video for a post from “BEAST” there’s information in that post about a kit Suzuki or somebody put out for this problem. The kit is called the Clicky starter fix or something, the RUclips on this kit is easily found.
Post back of you have any problems.
@@apolouo Yee up Bro hi you doing yee want do sonthing can fit my 1987 corolla coupe sr5 5speed go problem my stared put new one like 2or 5 Mont staring don't want started thing do Thad can fit the problem want to no where can buy it whatt part name I thing can fit my car it you can healp me with thad thank s much healp people thas good bro g bless you all the time
It’s called the “Suzuki Samurai Clicky Starter Fix Kit.”
EBay link: $25 US for the kit
www.ebay.com/i/193512394837?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=193512394837&targetid=915850928613&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032583&poi=&campaignid=10456340362&mkgroupid=101996179165&rlsatarget=pla-915850928613&abcId=2145998&merchantid=119138579&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3s_4BRDPARIsAJsyoLNbhJj0KExLSvLY4h7odulBGaoGeR_stlxHHZ9bRn_TeGu1L2ggd8caAtOSEALw_wcB
Other link: they want $42 US for the kit.
vehicleparties.com/clicky-starter-quick-fix-kit-for-suzuki-starters-with-fuse/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3s_4BRDPARIsAJsyoLNb6zyLFqQylmle9uQ-Cm02PVQAgLQI-qxGZWMcG3cJE5arnOwB8n8aAj_eEALw_wcB
You’ve got some broken English here, but if your Toyota has the same problem this video addresses then this kit above will fix it. It comes with instructions, too.
very clear instruction thank you
Thanks for the post.
I don't speaking english well and I don't know what does it meaning 10ga and SW-3. A switch what have 3 stage?
The 10ga means a *10 gauge wire* The point here is, you what to use a larger gauge wire directly on the ignition switch terminal of the starter solenoid, which come stock with a 12 gauge wire (much smaller than a 10 gauge wire.) A 10 gauge wire will increase the amount of current on the primary side of the starter solenoid.
SW-3 was part of the Ford’s part number back in the 1980’s for their (starter solenoid.) Google a 1980 ford starter solenoid ( you’ll see what i mean.) The later year Fords starter solenoid look a litter different then the one i modeled in the video. But if you tell a parts guy you want a ford starter solenoid for a 1978-88 or so, Ford truck, that one should look very close to the one you see in the video.
About this (stage) thing, I don’t mention the word stage in this video, but I do recall helping someone in a back post who used this word incorrectly. What he meant was (terminals) not stage. The Sw-3 I represented in the video has 4 terminals, but only 3 are used to do this convention. However, some solenoids (including late model Fords, or equivalent solenoids ) may only have three terminals. Which should make these a no-brainer on how to use them to do this conversation.
On the solenoids with 4 terminals usually the small terminal on the LEFT in where you want to connect the wire coming from your ignition switch, (if you get the terminal wrong *it won’t work* just switch your ignition wire to the other small terminal). So after the convention, what you’ll have is, the ignitions wire (that use to connect directly to the solenoid itself) will now connect to a small terminal on the SW-3, which is the triggering terminal for the solenoid. The solenoid will now kick your starter.
And the upgraded 10 gauge wires *will absolutely jolt your starter to life* It’s a done deal, do this conversion correctly, using a Ford, or equivalent solenoid, your clicking problems will be history!
As i said before, on the solenoids with only 3 terminals, you really don’t have any options, there is only one small terminal to switch the ignition switch wire to.
I’ve been fixing this problem for more then 30 years now, pay no mind to anyone who advises this problem is inside the solenoid. Their clueless, it’s a primary wiring issue.
*________•________*
The idea anyone who represents themselves as experienced with cranking systems , and suggests the single click problem has anything to do with the starter solenoid (i.e the starter) hasn’t methodically ran down the actual reason for this chronic problem. And it really does speak to their troubleshooting logic.
wow, it's awesome, thanks a lot!
I’ve watched this twice...what is a SW-3?
It’s a Ford starter solenoid. You can use any relay capable of handling 10 gauge wire on the load side. I suggest the SW3 because it’s simple to figure out the connections, and has mounting brackets that also act as grounds. Less plunging that way.
Mines doing same thing but no click but cross Siloniod with screw driver and it turns ???
If by the same thing you mean your car‘s starter won’t crank, then you probably have a bad neutral safety switch, or clutch pedal switch if it’s a manual transmission.
In other words, there’s *no electricity flow* getting to the starter solenoid in the small wire.
Watch my video called “Starter clicking problems 101, 102, and 103” there’s a section on not hearing a click.
Devs hewitt That would be in your ignition
The ignition switch causing this issue is much less likely then the neutral safety switch, or clutch pedal switch on manual transmissions, being the problem.
I've got a 2000 frontier 3.3L manual transmission . When it's cold it starts fine but when it warms up it won't turn over . After the engine cools abit it'll start . Any ideas .
When it doesn't "turn over" does the starter make any sounds?
xMech
Not really .
Do what the video says, while holding the key in the crank position (at the time of the no start) do other loads on the vehicle Fade or stop working?
What I mean is, are these loads the wipers, heater motor, lights effected at the failed crank?
xMech
I'll give that a try . Thanks .
I have a video up you may find helpful.
It's called "starter clicking problems 101,102, and 103"
Give it a watch.
If I jump the two terminals and it cranks and the engine starts is it OK to leave them jumped while it is running?
xMech Good to know thank you for the response. I have a battery kill switch in the cab already and I made a jump cable with a toggle switch for the starter(which goes into the cab now as well) so I turn on the battery, flip the starter jump switch, turn the key engine starts, then I flip the starter jump switch off and I'm good to go.
The use of the words "cable" and "inside your cab" here, is a point of concern.
If this kill switch in your cab, has access, to basically the positive battery cable, and you're thinking about using that connection, to go directly to the starters + terminal, by way of a "cable", through a switch in your cab. Don't do that!
On a Ford, this would effectively cut the ignition switch out of the circuit, not to mention, maybe catching the toggle switch on fire. Conversely, doing this on a vehicle engineered with an ignition switch solenoid wire, won't change anything, besides just adding an additional cable to your starters + terminal.
If you wanted to add a second level of anti theft, by having your cranking system essentially on an additional kill switch. Use wire to extend the smaller ignition switch to the sw-3 wire (Fords) / ignition switch wire going to the solenoid, through the toggle switch in your cab. This way, your ignition switch will still kick the starter.
xMech cool I will do that thanks again for the info!
What if your starter engages and engine won't crank
Dennis, it's sounds like a bad ring gear, or flywheel. The starters on V-8 engine always hit in one of four spots on the ring gear. Six cylinders always hit on only three spots. This repeated engagement on the same area, can wear the teeth on a ring gear.
This problem usually will have lots of unpleasant sounds associated with it.
every time I change the relay it blows on a 1997 Mazda prazom then the car has no power
Relays don’t blow, I guess they could burn up tho...
What relay are you talking about? are you sure you’re not talking about a fuse?
Where can a SW-3 be purchased?
It’s a Ford starter solenoid. Sw3 was part of the Motorcraft part number back in the 80s. It just stuck with me.
You can use any relay that’s manufactured for 10 gauge wiring on the load side. Like early model horn relays, and stuff like that.
I made an update to this video it has the same name as this video, it’s on my site. It has a schematic on it if you need it. I dropped the SW3 name on this video.
in minute 2:00, when u say jump these two terminals to test for the issue, what do u mean by that ?
The point of my cheesy CGI is to illustrate the cause of the (single click) solenoid problem.
To do that, at 2 minutes In I suggest if you jumped two terminals you could absolutely verify the problem WAS in the primary circuit.
This jump entirely bypasses all primary, and when the starter successful cranks during this jump, it also verifies all your secondary: the starter (including the solenoid), battery, cables, and cable connections, function properly.
So, if this jump cranks the starter consistently, ignore anyone telling you, you need to run tests on any of the above mentioned parts. That would be a waste of time.
This is a problem of insufficient (primary) voltage reaching the solenoid, and not a starter, battery, or cable, issue.
That’s what I meant.
@@apolouo hey, I know this is an old video, but I have an 83 Audi and I'm able to consistently start it by jumping the cables at the solenoid. The Bentley work flow chart says the first thing is to clean the leads. That might be a first solution before going to the trouble of adding a new relay. Just my 2¢
You’re confused about the difference between the primary and secondary. That’s a secondary problem, this video is primarily about a primary problem. But thanks anyway.
@@apolouo Yes, I realize that now. I'm having this problem and I suspect the issue is the wiring is very old and has added a lot of resistance to it (it's original from 1983). The rubber is cracked and flaked off is places and the wiring is exposed and the female lead has a ton of corrosion on it. I can jump the car at the solenoid and if I run a wire directly from the battery. Lights on the dash all work. It has a relay already but I'm probably either going to splice in a new wire to the solenoid or a new universal relay.
You said it already has a relay, is this a Ford?
Please someone help me. Sometimes my car won't start and I heard click..I attempt to start about 4 clicks and sometimes it start.
Sorry but I never saw this post, did you get your starter problem fixed?