Easy method to balance the Toyota hybrid battery (NiMH)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- In this amazing episode we will break many myths related to balancing the hybrid batteries. make sure to pay real attention cause this info will probably change everything you thought about this matter and then of course this info will help you a lot to improve your work when balancing a hybrid battery. enjoy ☝😎
My friend if the dog bite you. You can't bite the dog, just ignore the hater and carry on doing well done.
Be careful when adding batteries to this balancer. Ensure the modules being inserted into the group have a voltage close to the other batteries on the balancer. Otherwise a lot of amps may flow very quickly into/out of the battery being added to the group. You can use a SkyRC charger to charge the group of balanced batteries @ 5.2 amps total, however I recommend charging the modules one module at a time. The reason is each module has different capacities and resistance. When I charged the whole pack up to 8.30 volts, when I discharged some of the modules, their mAh capacity dropped considerably. I used to think it was the electrical connection of the aluminum strips on the balancer. But even when I connected the modules with copper wire using nuts, I had similar strange results. When I charge just two modules together in parallel, the discharge capacity is lower than expected. I think this is because the charge being applied is too low, and somehow the batteries with more capacity will take on more of the charge, and the modules with more resistance will be charged less. I have found that if you want strong discharge amps, you need to charge an individual module with 3.0 amps or 3.2 amps. If you charge the modules when connected in parallel, the charge amps are much lower (per module). When you discharge the modules to test them, some of them will have much fewer mAh than before. I also decided to track the temperature as the modules are being charged. If you have a charger similar to the SkyRC charger, you can buy a temperature probe for about $10. I would cut off the charger at around 82 F. In the summer, you obviously will have a different cut-off temp. I noticed my Prius pack can sometimes get up to 125 F (at a time when the pack was not paired up properly). When pairing modules up for the pack, it is important to pair them up, first on resistance, and then mAh capacity. Do NOT pair weak modules with strong modules (formula for pack failure).
I noticed that when charging a module @ 3.0 amps up to 8.60v, the module got warm (about 82 F) and the module expanded. After doing this, the total capacity went up to about 3000 mAh, and it took a charge of 3236 mAh. Keep in mind the modules I tested were old and were the best of the modules that did not make the cut when I rebuilt my hybrid pack. Over time, I came to the conclusion that charging @ 3.0 amps is safer than 3.2 amps. However, I have found it beneficial to charge a module a few times @ 3.2 amps up to 8.60v to get the module to get it discharge more normally. After a few cycles charging @ 3.2 amps, I will switch back to charging @ 3.0 amps. I tried clamping two boards around the module to prevent it from expanding. This helped reduce the swelling, however this causes the module to get warmer more quickly, so I like charging a single module with a fan on it, and turn off the charging when the temp gets to 82 F. I noticed the module starts getting warm at 8.500v (80 F), gets warmer when the voltage is at 8.550 volts (81 F), and gets warmer when at 8.59v (82 F) (each module will be different and hopefully this improves with each cycle). Note: the voltage I am referring to is the actual module voltage, that my custom Arduino code captures for the one second (every 30 seconds) which is when the SkyRC charger is not charging. The SkyRC charger thinks the voltage is more like 8.70 volts, but when it stops charging, the voltage is closer to 8.59 volts. Note: the max voltage a Prius module can store is about 8.60 volts, and Delta V is triggered at around 8.72 volts (if it gets triggered). The SkyRC charger usually does NOT detect Delta V (which occurs when a module is fully charged).
Great. Dr Prius shows my state of health at 95%. I don't know the history of the car, since I just bought it, its 2014 Camry with 190k miles, so my guess that the battery has already been serviced or replaced. My question is can I use a mechanic balancer on all modules for 48 hours with out using any kind of charger, and will just balancing the modules along be a good source to prolong the battery life? Thank you 👍
I would also like to know if I can rebalance the battery without connecting it to a charger. Is the charger just to insure that the modules are all at max charge before I start rebalancing?
Yes, you can balance a group of modules without a charger. At 11:00 in the video, Jose has two modules connected in parallel (hanging from the aluminum bars). When connected like this, electricity will flow between the modules, and their voltage will become equal (balanced between the hanging modules), without using a charger. When you are inserting another module into the group of modules being balanced, you should check the voltage of the module. If it is less than the group voltage, then I would charge that individual module up to the voltage of the group, before adding it to the group. If the module is at a higher voltage, then I would connect a charger to the module, and discharge it down to match the voltage of the group of modules. However, each of the 28 modules in a Gen 2 Prius contains six cells. The six cells will get balanced (somewhat) when you charge the modules up to 8.40 volts (Jose explains this in another video where he describes the six cells being balanced in a module). Once the modules in the group are at 8.40 volts, you can apply a small trickle charge of 0.5 amps for the pack (or 0.1 amps for a module) @ 8.40 volts for an hour or so (I do not know how long is safe to trickle charge at such a high voltage of 8.40 volts). DO NOT CHARGE HIGHER THAN 8.40 volts!!! If you charge a module @ 8.70 volts for a few hours, there is a good likelihood you will damage that module! The module has a safety feature that kicks in around 8.70 volts causing the voltage to drop suddenly, which indicates the battery is fully charged, and that you should stop charging it. Most chargers do NOT detect this voltage drop. If you charge higher than 8.5 volts, it may use up the chemical that triggers this voltage drop (which is what I mean when I say you may damage the battery). The Prius charging system can detect this, but if you use up the chemical that triggers the voltage drop, then the Prius may charge the battery pack higher than intended. Note: I charged some of my modules higher than 8.70 volts, and I suspect that I damaged them, which would explain why my Prius sometimes charges the modules up to 9.5 volts (when driving). The Dr. Prius app lets you see (and record) the voltages when driving.
@@GaryMarkowski So you can rebalance batteries without a charger but I still need a charger to be able to charge or discharge modules to even out voltages before balancing. So a charger is still needed. What kind of options are there for a charger? A prolong charger is a little bit too expensive for myself. I have noticed some people use an rc charger of sorts, and I understand that a low current charger is what I need. But what are my options? Is there a video or website that could help me make the decision on what kind of charger I need and can afford?
@@YaroGoret I have two SkyRc V2 RC chargers (no fan). They work good, but they do NOT detect when the battery is fully charged (this is a huge problem). So if you buy a RC charger, make sure it works with NiMH batteries AND will automatically stop when the battery if fully charged. I have seen some videos where they charged a single module @ 10 amps. This is huge no no. I have charged some modules @ 5 amps, and some of my modules failed after doing that. I think you can get good results charging @ 3 amps (or 2 amps). You may need to charge at least 2 amps (per module) to reduce the "memory" effect that can occur at lower charge rates. There is very little information out there to tell you exactly how to charge your modules, so it is a big learning experience (trial and error). The Prolong charger used to cost around $450. The nice thing about it is you don't have to learn much, and it will take a LOT less time to charge/discharge the whole pack (effort wise). I would not discharge a single module any faster than 2.5 to 3 amps (one auto headlight). I spent about 120 hours researching this topic. You can save research time by buying the Prolong charger. Maybe other people can share more recent information regarding chargers. 20/20 hindsight, make sure the charger you get can auto detect when the battery is fully charged (which will be around 8.40 volts (or less)). When a module is fully charged, the voltage will drop suddenly (ie. Negative Drop in Voltage - NVD). I find most modules do not take and keep a charge above 8.20 volts. If I charge these modules up to about 8.25 volts (individually), this seems to extend their capacity when testing their discharge. Once charged, some modules will drift down to 8.08 volts, and most will drift down to 7.88 volts. The ones that hold at 8.08 volts usually drop below 8.0 volts within 10 seconds of a headlight being attached.
This is the best method to balance the cells. I also used this method 4 years ago & saved lots of customer money. 👍👍
Did you charge while balancing? Or charge every individual cell and balance them ? Thanks
Have you tried Nissan batteries
I can't tell you how much I appreciated this. Thanks again Jose.
me too
I also can appreciate your sense of humor and free spirit brother. Lately, RUclips is trending towards 20-minute video length, only a suggestion. Thank you for the physics lesson for the folks who don't understand this portion of electronics/electricity.
You are a great sensei! Thank you, for sharing your knowledge. I am a retired tech who never got hybrid training and between you and the Weber State Auto gentleman, I feel confident that I can bring my 2011 Prius back to life.
Glad to help
Bro you're doing great work to educate tech's like myself, who are here to learn from you & admire your efforts in putting this together, huge work👍
As for haters, they will never stop hating people who are helping other's & sharing knowledge
Keep up the great work Bro, Stay Safe & Thanks for sharing👍
Thank you so much Salman ☝😎☝😎
All this knowledge for free. Thank you sir.
Thank you for teaching us I appreciate you ignore the haters cause they do not have followers
Your explanation for bringing it to balance was very understandable.thank you.
Thanks for your simple explanation.😊
@@user-xx1ik4sb6n always glad to help ⚡️⚡️
Hey thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm about to change busbars on a 2010 Prius and balancing hadn't even crossed my mind until I saw this, so going to do it at the same time. Thanks bud! 👍
Did you balance the hybrid
Ingeniously explained. Even I, as a complete layman, understood that. Top!
By the way you don't have to thank us for watching we have to to thank you for those educational videos thank you very much.
Those aluminum bars is a very clever solution for voltage balancing.
Having experience witth LiPo, LiFePo4, lead acid batteries and BMSes (battery management system) I know that same voltage doesn't mean that each cell has the same capacity (often cells are degenerated by heat).
Cells in the middle of a battery pack get hotter, so best practice is to swap them with the cells on the outside. A thermal camera (very affordable these days) can give you insight about the temperature difference between cells and their condition (bad cells tend to get warmer, too).
To recondition, 3 cycles of discharge and charge each cell (with approx. 0.6C - 0.8C and cooling) with 30min rest in between is pretty efficient. Could make a huge difference in capacity. For RC there are great chargers available that aren't expensive.
NiMh doesn't like trickle (slow) charging.
Dude you made me feel smart. If you want my old battery it’s from 2015. I don’t think it’s really bad.
The refurbished one working so far! Great comment! I’d like to read all your comments on RUclips. Live long and prosper
Thank you for sharing your expertise with us. Now I am ready to charge and balance the high voltage battery in my Prius C.
Just come across your videos Jose, thanks for the content and sharing your knowledge. The automotive industry is starting to shift once again and this information will be something all technicians will need to acquire!
Disregard the haters! Great content and delivery! No matter what we do in life there’s always someone with a negative view. Just keep doing you 👍🏻.
Thanks a lot michael 👋😎👋😎
Great channel! Here in Brazil hybrid vehicles are recent, I'm learning in this great channel.
Excellent video. I have duffed and experimented with replacement and balancing of hybrid cells within the hybrid battery pack, and finally arrived at the thinking you present here. Wish I had seen this video when I began my fact finding journey.
Just took out a 2007 battery that was "reconditioned, balanced" 3 months ago by a "Prius Battery Specialist". It was failing because balancing is a waste if the Internal Resistance is high on the modules. I picked the lowest IR batteries from my 3 packs and the car drives like new. Voltage is secondary. IR is the most important parameter for series-connected traction batteries.
You mean capacity my good friend...
Only in the "Capacity" to transfer energy. High IR limits the cell transfer, no matter the capacity. One good test is a long hill. The hesitation or bucking that the car exhibits is high IR in at least one cell in a long series of 168 cells.
@@amazoidal yes but it's not that simple... normal IR is between 18 to 25 milliohms... but ist only affected by temperature...
Men you are the best I'm totally agreed with you thanks to shared all that information
Thank you for your support brother 👋😎
Thank you so much for taking the time to teach us these really neat tricks.
Thank you for watching mike... glad you liked it ☝😎
Thanks 4 teach us
HOWdy H-S-D, ...
Thank YOU
Perfect solution for a RE-BALANCING project
- another channel wrapped mechanics-wire around each
_NEGATIVE- & +POSITIVE post and allowed them to EQUALIZE
but
I believe your RAIL System is more elegant !
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA - USA
...
Great video. Could you provide specs on the balancer or do a video on how to complete and where to get the parts, what size wood board, bolts...etc?
Great demo. It’s very interesting the way you explain it in the simplest layman’s terms. Thank you.
Hi Jose, I stumbled upon your videos and really LOVE them. I’m sure I could figure out the measurements of your balancing mechanism on my own (by measuring one of the cells - I haven’t removed any yet) but I was wondering if you’d mind sharing the materials/dimensions of your brilliantly designed device? Thanks so much!
Sure catherine no problem... however it was made at the prius battery sides... 👋😎
Hey Bro, thanks for sharing your knowledge on Hybrid Systems. You are doing an amazing job. Keep it up.
Nice job Jose. 👍👍👍
Perfect jig for checking charge and balancing. Is it your design?
How long does it usually take for balancing for one, two, or three bad cells?
Shouldn't you be wearing gloves?
Everyone who owns a hybred or full electric should watch this video.
I just subscribed.
Excellent! You have a awesome sense of humor!
Great video, I will be cleaning and inverting the cells as you me tioned on my 2011 prius, I dont have the balancer, can I still install them and let the car charge them? Or is it required to balance them before install? I have the V on prius app. And about 3-4 degrees higher on battery #2 compared to 1 and 3 as seen on other videos that you have explained due to heatstress. If highly recommended I will balance them, is there another alternative to do this other than prolong balancer?
Amazing technic. Thumbs up
Mr jose loved every minute of your video 🙏🙏🙏
Great Video, Can I ask how your balance table is made? Is it just a plywood bottom? Are the bars on the top aluminum?
This method does charge each battery to same voltage. But, if any cell has less capacity (volume of current capacity) when cells are place in series (as they are in auto battery pack) they will fail to provide as much current as needed to keep up with other higher capacity cells in series battery. This method balances for same voltage but does not sort out cells with different storage capacity.
Charging or discharging has nothing to do with the module's capacity... this is just to rebalance the complete battery pack to restore the overall battery pack's capacity the most it can be...
you do that after check capacity and select the ones to continue the work
you must invert the order of the batterys in the pack
he takes too long
Is it possible to trickel charge the cell while they are in parallel on the mechanical cumustomised aluminum balancer device you made? In theory, can you start with balancing all the cells. Once they are all balanced, slowly charge the cells by hooking the charger up on the aluminum rack and slowly charge the cells up. Wouldn't this reduce heat "loss" and the cells would charge more quickly? When the charging is done, then just disconnect the charger and let the balancer rest a few days. Done! Thoughts?
Yes of course and it will work great 👋😎
@@hybridsolutiondiagnostics absolutely not. You cannot charge nickel metal hydride in parallel because when the first cell reaches full it immediately dives in voltage and the other ones are still higher in voltage even though they're at a lower state of charge than the one that's full and they'll all work together to dump massive amounts of amperage into the one that's full causing it to swell up and overheat.
No absolutely not you cannot charge nickel metal hydride in parallel up to the point of being full. See my other comment here.
@@hybridsolutiondiagnostics they need to be very slowly charged in series. The one that reaches full will get warm but a fan will take that heat away. There won't be any other cells dumping power into them when they're in serious. That's why the high voltage charger/balancer was invented in the first place.
@@SiriusSolar see k which charger should i use (brand) and how to set them up safely... If in series maybe them being in the car is fine as well
Great 👍
Definitely learning Experience.
Thank you.
Great video, love your lessons. Thank you and keep your positive attitude!😊
Very imformative video but quick question do you need to fully charge the modules before balancing them ?.
Yes... ☝😎
@@hybridsolutiondiagnostics можно зарядить батарею перед балансировкой на авто".????
I think that this is a good way to balance, but if I am going to go through the trouble to have a battery out, I would want to cycle and load test the batteries, specifically checking capacity variance. Part of how they get imbalanced in the first place is internal resistance and ACTUAL capacity variance between each individual cell. That way I can toss out any weak performing cells and get a better net product.
fantastic idea guy
I was curious if balancing the modules actually improved the modules, so I explored balancing the pack more, and I have a theory of what happens when you balance the modules. After balancing the modules, I charged them individually @ 3 amps up to 8.50 volts, and then tested their discharge time. For some of the modules, their capacity dropped dramatically (to 20% of their previous capacity). However, after cycle charging/discharging them a few times, the capacity came back. What is going on here? I think what may be happening is that when you balance the modules, the electrons flow back and forth much more, causing clumps of material to become dislodged. I think this back and forth action is similar to how water in a swimming pool moves back and forth when someone jumps in the water. I find some older modules have a hare time keeping the voltage at 8.20 volts. A module that cannot be charged higher than 7.2 volts likely has a bad cell, and should be discarded. Charging a balanced pack up to 8.40 volts for 12 hours likely is safe. Doing this step will likely bring the voltage of all 6 cells in each modules up to 1.4 volts each (8.40 volts / 6 cells). Balancing the modules this way is dangerous so BE CAREFUL! Make sure + to + ALWAYS, and also make sure a module's voltage is close to the pack when adding it to the balanced pack.
I have learned a lot from your videos. I have one bothersome question: You show balancing with the Prolong battery Charger in a video, and your mechanical customized balancer in this video. When would you use one or the system, or would you use both for a reconditioning?
Love the rig u made. But it was a rreeeaaaallllyyyy long way to explain what could have been said in about 1 min.
You are a lifesaver you are a golden💪
when you have them all connected in parallel and you measured the V on the aluminum, and you get 7.10 v. You when checking the individual, also will show the same because at every point, you are measuring the overall volts. YOU need to lift a unit UP and test it so it is not touching the aluminum bar - and compare the before and after voltage for it - as you said, they become in balance very very slowly - then you do this wrong and say they are coming in balance very quickly :)
I have my batt all apart right now and have 5 modules that are bad - 3 of them are below 2 volts and one shows 6.32 and the other 7.02vs. All others are within the limits of 7.6v. I also made this "tool" and will leave mine for 48 hours and see if this will truly bring them all to equal voltages - will let you know. I have recorded each cell "present/before voltage so then I can see if it got discharged or charged up in the balancing process".
Charge each module individually up to 7.88 volts, and then disconnect the charger. After doing this, if the voltage drops to less than 7 volts, then it is very likely that module is bad and should certainly be replaced. This is because one of the six cells in the module went bad. Each of the 6 cells has a nominal charge of 1.2 volts (6 * 1.2 volts = 7.20 volts). If you cannot charge a module higher than 7.20 volts (which is the chemically supported voltage), then that module is bad. Most good modules, if you discharge them down to 6.5 volts, they will tend to drift back up to 7.20 volts. If they drift higher than 7.20 volts, then this is a sign the module has a memory effect. You usually can remedy the memory effect by cycling a module between 7.00 volts and 8.20 volts a few times applying a charge of about 3 amps.
It is possible your batteries got damaged inserting them into the aluminum bar balancer. If the voltage of the modules is considerably different between the modules when you insert a module, this could cause a lot of energy to quickly flow through the module being inserted, causing one or more of the the cells in that module to fail. This balancer is safe ONLY if the module being inserted is close in voltage to the other modules being balanced. I am not sure what would happen if you accidentally insert a battery the reverse way (OMG). The more I think about this, I do not think this balancer is safe. If you have one module that is 2 volts and you insert it into the set of modules being balanced, this could have caused other modules to be damaged (due to too much current flowing through the cells). It is very unlikely a module would be below 5 volts. If you have three modules around 2 volts, this is an indication of them being damaged trying to balance them. You could try to slowly trickle charge the bad modules up to 6.2 volts, and then slowly charge them up to 7.2 volts, and then quickly charge them @ 2 amps up to 7.88 volts to see if they recover. Good luck! If after doing this, I would replace all of the modules that cannot keep a charge above 7.2 volts.
Thanks for your vidios very importan for loren alat
Very informative and excellent work again bro👌👍
Instead of charging the complete pack can the batteries be charged individually. For an aqua what is the individual cell voltage and what voltage should they be charged? Thanks for the videos they are great.
Hello, my very simple principal question. Why is such a big deal balancing the modules so closely!? I understand if there's a big difference but what if they are about 0.5 volt different? The other thing is do you load test them before balancing them. How about if they have different capacities under the load even if they have almost the same voltage!? Thanks
I already replace the bad battery cell and measured every battery cell and there all around 7.76 and 2 cells are 7.80. Would you recommend balancing them again and doing the process of discharging and charging them back up
I have a question,,,Those batteries inflate when they get charged or balanced which cause the battery to degrade if they are not packed or hold by any means and ventilated to remove the heat disipated.. That is why they are packed close on the module.Can you comment on that?
Thanks you for all your teach.
Man you are doing a great job
Thank you 👋😎
You are a mad Genius!!
Thanks !!
Jejeje thanks mark, hope this helps 👋😎
Great video! Thank so much for sharing knowledge ans experience!
Thank you... 👋😎
Quick question what would be causing higher temperature reading on Dr Prius on Battery Temp 3 block 10-14
dirty corrosion on wires and buss bars
You could alternatively get another set of bus bars and connect each module pair to its neighboring module pairs. You'd have to remove the orange plastic thingy, but you're doing that anyway to clean the bus bars.
Yes of course but you would still need to take out the modules because of it's polarities are to be connected in series, not in parallel 🤔😖😬😬
@@hybridsolutiondiagnostics Oh I see, duh! That's how the bus bars work to make a high voltage pack. Good thing I didn't try out my theory, lol!
Should I delete my original comment so nobody does anything stupid?
I just want to ask question I am using ultra power up 240ac plus -once recycling three times with 7300mAh they stop over capacitor
Do need recycle again or it’s fully complete
Please give me
Thanks
Lakshman
Its fine... just make sure to balance after ☝😎
My sister's husband died and she left his 2006 prius sitting in the drive for about 5 years in her grief. The main batteries were replaced right before he died. I'm helping her get rid of it now but have no clue if those batteries can be expected to be good. She doesn't want to tow it to a mechanic. I'm just trying to get some ballpark info here to maybe help her get a little money from it. Thanks for any info.
Best. L.
Charge the battery first and give it a try...
@@hybridsolutiondiagnostics Thanks for the response. Well, we jumped it and the thing started up like no time had passed at all. I'm not sure exactly how to charge the battery. We hooked a battery charger up to it and it didn't seem to be acting the way my mechanic friend expected. But he is a bit of an "old boy" and not a prius person. None of us should probably be touching it without more research. Still not sure how to test/charge the main batteries.
Thank you, it was very useful
Great video, thanks for the info
Hi Jose, Great channel. Really appreciate it. I have 2 questions regarding charging. Is a 1 amp NOCO Genius charger sufficiently small to collectively charge a Prius Gen 2 hybrid battery without causing overheating. Secondly, if I make balancing "machine" like yours, will I run the risk of having cells expand if I add charge while they are on the balancer?
As long as you use tma very low current charger and good ventilation it should be fine... but do not charge in the balancer... modules will swell bad... 👋👋😎😎
Awesome work, and very informative!
Thank you Ravin, glad you liked it ☝😎
Hi
Do you have a video on how u made the balancer ?? Can u please post the link
.thank you.
Nice what are the Measurements of your board I’d like to make one
If balancing is so effective to equalize modules then why we need expensive equipment to recondition them: charging/ discharging…?
@@sashaviroviy5065 I think you already know the answer ☝️😂😂😂😂
Los mantenimientos a la hv de la Nissan kicks E-Power se hacen similar como está batería???
What test i much used thanks you.
Where would you recommend I buy the modules from?
What type of metal was used to mount the battery cells on to balance the batteries? I want to make one and just want to make sure I duplicate it as best I can. Looks like metal rails, nuts, bolts and wood support. Thank you!
Aluminum angles 📐 and make sure to put some good rubber base to the columns… and never use it in a metal tabletop…
Thank you sir for sharing this video the balancing of battery was something new just one question sir how would I be able to knw that what module is really bad and has to be thrown and and which one can be revived
Thank you one of the best Video 👍
Thank you 👋😎
Is there a training course we can take for hybrid vehicle systems?
this guys vids
You are a genius
The weak module still stays weak. What you get when you combine them in parallel is the total voltage of the two cell modules in parallel. Same as the ordinary flashlight cells, if the flashlight has two week cells and you replaced only one of them with new, it will have a higher total voltage but the old unreplaced cell will remain weak.
Jose, what is the full voltage on a battery and a white voltage is supposed to charge it. The reason I ask is because I have 20 complete battery pack and I’m planning on using them as a home battery back up system at 48 V a total of 560 modules
8.2v peak, 7.6v+ constant
6.7v- is "dead" for car , but will still work non car use
There are 6 cells in one battery module.
With this method, you only equalize the voltage of the batteries.
However, the 6 cells of the battery can have different charges.
Actually, if you charge one or more modules up to about 8.40 volts, and keep them just under 8.40 volts for about 12 hours, this will equalize the 6 cells within the module. When you have 2 or more modules connected in parallel for 12 hours, and apply a trickle charge, this causes a flow of electrons in and out of the modules, similar to waves in the ocean or ripples in a pond. I find keeping the voltage between 8.35 and 8.40 volts works well to restore capacity in older modules. It helps to restore battery resistance too. I have revived some modules that sat around doing nothing for a year using this technique.
@@GaryMarkowski tqvm
Thank you very much
Does the 5th generation hybrid system with the lithium ion batteries have a self balancing system?
The ioniq has a balance energy system inside or is necessary do the same process? If the answer is no, how often is necessary todo? Thanks and excellent videos
Ioniq has a self balancing system... just clean the battery and fan every 2 years...
@@hybridsolutiondiagnostics fantastic, thanks.
Nice Idea boss welldone
Glad you liked it 😎👍
So, which is better, all-electric or e-power ?
Awesome work
Brooo you from Trinidad??? I heard you mention something about teaching students... So do you have a school or do you do tutoring... We need to get in touch. I'm really interested in learning about the hybrid system.
Sure... follow the instagram for direct contact.
Is it useful to change the order of the slides site to make a balance
can we re insurt the battery to the car without balancing the modules after cleaning the corrusion ?
So
1. Balance
2.recondition
3.test
4Install
With some rests in between?
Awesome, I’m gonna give it a try on my 2007 Prius!
What was the name of that charger?
Do you mean toyota have not installed an active BMS for these batteries? This means their quality is fenomenal and incredibiloid!!!. I have an RX400h with the original battery for almost 15 yrs. Incredible.
I think you should update the title to reflect the type of hybrid battery NiMH (Nickle Metal Hydrate). I believe the method shown on this video won't work for Lithium Ion hybrid batteries.
@@jonathanvillalba3214 great idea 💡
I have one fresh out of my 2015 if anyone needs it. Probably just needs serviced. The refurbished one is working for now. 760.
Hey I have a question so I do a load test on the hybrid battery pack with some light bulbs and the cells that discharge faster I replace with other cells that hold better and the ones that discharge faster I throw away does this mean the cells are not bad they are just unbalanced
not perfect but will still start car toyota
The way I did it, is I discharged and then charged, measured the Mah, and only put ones that where 7000mah and up.
I agree to that but its not that simple... a new master class is coming soon about that by the way...
Ain’t these modules rated at 6400/6500 mah? Can a module with a capacity of 3000mah and above still be usable?
@@slayryt3533 waste of time... too weak...
Would laying a metal coat hanger that you straighten out do the same thing as building a balancer?
Sure… just be careful
Ive made the same setup for balance battery
How long it take time?
Great video. One question, are you familiar with the EnnoCar batteries with the green cells? Are those as good as the original toyota battery packs?
Thank you kyle... those are chinese cheap batteries... they claim a long warranty for the pack but so far had a few customers with some issues... but they will never be like the original Panasonic from japan ☝😎 in quality.
@@hybridsolutiondiagnostics thank you for the response. Are they able to be reconditioned/balanced in the similar way you are highlighting?
I am the owner of one and would be interested in doing a reconditioning
@@kyleVmaraj the very same principal... those chinese really need rebalance way much more often...
Hello! Thanks, very useful.
Like you video...! Hey Bro... Question if a module when you remove it has 6.7v and you charge it individually with an 8v charger for two days and after that the module returns to 6.7v is it already considered defective? Oh is it possible to revive it with the parallel load as you show here?
as itself its to dead to work in a toyota, i belive the start volts is 7.4+, you can by cells one at a time
Simple and amazing