Helpful tips if you have poor heating from the HVAC system, especially in colder climates, these steps can save you money. Applies to BMW 3 Series from 02-05.
2003 E46 320i. So, for about a week the low coolant level warning light was coming on intermitently, yet everytime I checked it the level was correct. The engine temperature was showing normal and the heater worked fine. At the end of the week, the day after returning from a drive a drive of around 280km, the heater started blowing only cold air, not even slightly warm. I watched this video and because I did not have the necessary tools to hand to strip away the air box, I decided to jump straight to bleeding the collant system, following the instruction in the video, as it was easy to do and required only a screwdriver and a big jug of coolant. For around five minutes I gradually added coolant to the reservoir and watched as lots of air bubbles came out of the bleed screw hole. When there were no more bubbles coming through, only coolant, I screwed down the bleed screw, siphoned excess coolant from the reservoir to achieve the correct lervel and replaced ther pressure cap. Within a minute of starting the engine, hot air was coming from the heater, and there has been no recurrence of the low coolant level warning light. Thanks Pete!
Great explanation of the coolant and heater system interaction! I totally replaced every component in the coolant system in 2020. But I didn’t replace the heater control valve and I believe it’s stuck open. My reasoning is that no matter what, the blower blows hot air. It’s the opposite of most ppls problems - where they have not heat. Your video was great context and information about it all. I look forward to following the system bleed video when I get to that point. Thanks!
Great stuff, I wish all how to videos could be so clear. I´ve been struggling with an E83 X3 since I bought it to get any heat, tried bleeding numerous times and switched the heater control valve. Now I think I know the issue so will try this tomorrow! Thank you.
Trying to diagnose this today. Coolant Expansion tank cracked, replaced it, bled (ton of air), then stable coolant level. Still no heat. Will try again tomorrow. Great Video!
Pete, great video. I had the opposite problem, no cool air b/c I think the valve was stuck closed, and it kept breaking the fuse. I swapped out the control valve, and now I don't have heat! I didn't correctly bleed the coolant, this is the first thing I'll check. Thanks again.
@@KoolAidSquirt really weird thing is happening, it started to drain the battery overnight so I unplugged the fuse. Now I'm back to square one. Since it's close to Winter I'm not concerned about not having cold air. Warm airs coming in great. Might be the controller itself, not really sure.
I changed the heater control valve to a new one (had another guy to see if it worked properly before installing and it did) i removed both hoses from the heater core and did a reverse flush and it was good flow with clean water, i bled the coolant system and still no heat, any tips?
Quick question 🙋♂️ I have a 2000 bmw 328ci with 84k miles. So I was driving to work and had the heater on while I was driving I heard a noise in the vents that turn off and turn back on but this time it was not blowing hot air. It was blowing cold air when I had the temperature at 73. The seat warmers working but no heat from the vents
This was super helpful. I just replaced my entire cooling system and have no circulation. The buoy from the last tank that busted came out in pieces so I’m hoping I don’t need to fully flush everything. But I had circulation after replacing the water pump and after replacing radiator (last component) it stopped circulating. I admit though I didn’t have my car parked on an incline or jacked, and I haven’t heard of bleeding while running the car before. I’m going to try both and see if that gets it. If no dice then I’ll try this method you suggested. Thank you !
I have hot air coming from the windshield vents and from the feet but when i put it on vent it comes out cold.. is it the same problem or is it something else
In my case, I believe the heater core is getting hot, but no air is moved on "heat" settings on my 02 E46. AC Blows nice and cool, but on "heat" settings, the blower is working but no air from any of the outlets. Oh, and E46 started in 1997 and went to 2006.
Great information I tried to flush and bleed the system but still I got no warm .. I supposed it could be the sensor sitting inside where the radio are behind that
01 330ci, both heater core lines are hot behind the valve. Only getting heat after giving throttle. It's warm unless I lay onto the throttle. Letting off gets cold. It's set to heat on the vent adjuster too. Pretty stumped honestly.
@Pete_Tech_ coolants full, had the cooling system rebuild long enough now, no air. Have already checked for bad head. Coolant level seems spot on I have not had too add since I smacked a deer in November and rebuilt the front end and other stuff. Heat worked perfectly until last week.
Been wracking my brain on why, when recirculating is off, the damn passenger center vent doesn't blow as hot as all other vents. Push the old recirculating button and that vent blows equally as hot. In general though, the cabin heat is quite intense and will make you sweat if kept at 91. There's nothing significantly wrong with the system, but not knowing is killing me. I've lately noticed the good old hvac system, especially on the passenger floorboard duct is spitting out small chunks of foam. Would the deterioration of this foam on certain places on the heater core allow outside/cold air to leak past the core and into the passenger vent? This would make sense because when recirculating is on, I'm just heating the already hot cabin air and no outside air is leaking past the core.
Wow, that was the best explaination for the valve. Thank you. In my case i let the car warm up for 15mins. I turn the heat temp to what like 97 or all the way high and the blower setting to high. I get a little warm air coming out of the vents. Then in my dash guage for temp. I noticed that the needle sits right about before the middle. And when i start driving it slowly goes down a bit. Is that mean my thermostat is stuck open?
This worked great for me. Took a while to bleed all the air out of the hvac system (as expected) but it fixed the issue at least for now. is this a sign that my heater core is on it's way out?
my interior doesn't give me air at all any idea why? i tried everything regarding electrical parts, even took out the vent motors that are under the windshield outside nothing seems out of ordinary. to explain my situation, 1 month ago i went on a trip, i came back 2 days later AC was blowing hot and cold air perfectly fine. left car in parked in my yard for 1 day and snow started coming but not enough to frost just bellow 0 a little bit... 2 days later i go to town no AC ... prior to this everything worked fine.. i checked relays, spiked thingy under glovebox, AC blower motor, the outside relays inside relays everything is fine. the controller unit works fine opens closes vents just motor doesn't spin to push in air... im confused now cause motor i took it out and tested on a car battery and runs perfectly fine.. im out of ideas what it can be... is there like a safety cpu thing that might block the air motor to spin?
heyy what do you think flushing from the outlet towards the inlet, that would be back flush isn't it? good elaborate explanation because not everyone is a smart ass like some in comments and may need every basic info!
Forgive me I know you get all kind of Jack leg advice but could you not use two hose pinch off pliers for the two hoses at the heater core disconnect them and just blow the heater core itself out? Thanks for the video though brother!
Broooo i have problem with no heat i have just cold air. I will try tomorrow to check the valve because intake is hot that goes inlet its hot, so its probably valve not opening. Also i have refiled my coolant 2 days ago it was empty. Beecause i ahve leaks :D Now will try to check the valve and i am gonna let you know did i fix it. I checked inside electro motors that opens the inside those thing i dont know how to say it i have digital airconditioner. I have E46 316i from 2000.
How would you flush a heater core for a 95 E38 740i? It has 3 hoses going into the firewall and I'm having a hard time figuring how to route how to flush the heater core. Thanks!
The first thing you’re gonna wanna do is start the engine and get the engine hot. Then you’re gonna wanna feel for whichever hose is the hottest. That is your heater core feed hose. Next remove the hose closest to it (most likely the return, if unsure remove both). Then use a light amounts of compressed air through the inlet side that was the hardest and feel where the air rushes out that is your return. Then you’re gonna want to flush from the return side to the side that was the hottest.
Dear dude I have change the coolant heater valve, change the sensor inside Cabin, blow both hoses and could see dirty cooler water,but still no heat in my vent. Both inlet and outlet hoses are hot. I can’t understand why I have still no heat! Please help Iam freezing in -10 C degree
What about if both hoses to the heater valve are cold? I have tried swapping thermostats. Weird thing is i got this problem after doing a engine swap. No stop leak in cooling
Both hoses are cold? That would be indicative of a flow issue or potential blockage in the heater core. (No flow through the core if it’s plugged solid). I’d start with seeing if the water pump is flowing properly. Squeeze the upper hose together and have someone rev it up hard, you should feel a surge.
@@Pete_Tech_ i disconnected the top hose at the heater valve and coolant was flowing out both sides. Flushed and reversed flush with good floe. And couldnt feel a surge. New metal water pump aswell.
First I would verify the cooling system itself is building block temperature properly. If the cooling system gets to operating temp and there is no blockage in the feed hose, there would have to be no flow, which would be nearly impossible if the water pump is working correctly. Take the hoses off and verify there is no blockage on the feed or return. You can contact me on insta @ Pete_Tech_
Heater core is hot hot on both inlet and outlet? If the heater core itself is getting very hot, then there is an issue with the HVAC mode operation inside the dash, but typically it’s just hot on the inlet side of the heater core, not the outlet, indicating the core is plugged.
Hey friend. I don't have coolant in the feed pipe from the block. I disconnected the hoses fom the heater valve to check everything and i found that there is no coolant coming from the engine block. I filled up the coolant to max level and started the car with the pipes off from the heater valve as well, but still no coolant coming from the feed hose from engine. Please help 🙏
Can it be the plastic piece from the engine bloc blocked which connects the two pipes ) one fat pipe which goes to the coolant reservoir and the other to the electrical pump ?? One pipe which goes to the has coolant réservoir has circulation of coolant but the pipe which goes to the electrical pump has no coolant circulation. Both pipe are connected to that plastic piece on the engine bloc. Please help 🙏
Hello. aujourd'hui j'ai retiré la electrovanne de chauffage pour tester. J'ai fixé un tuyau enbas de electrovanne (entré de liquide) et un tuyau en haut de electrovanne (sortie de liquide). J'ai allumé le chauffage de ma voiture (bmw e46 320d 150cv de l'année 2004) pour que la electrovanne commence à marcher et j'ai ajouté liquide avec un bouteille dans le tuyau de rentrer (le tuyau de electrovanne enbas). Liquide sort bien au sortie (tuyau en haut de electrovanne). Ça vais dire electrovanne marche très bien. Mais il y a toujours pas de liquide dans le tuyau de bloc moteur (le tuyau fine que entre dans electrovanne (enbas). Est ce que ça peux être l'aire bloqué dans c'est tuyau ? Comment je peux débouché ce tuyau svp ? Pour purger j'ai ouvrir le bouchon de réservoir, les 4 vis plastique de purge (primier sur le gros tuyau à côté réservoir, 2eme sur le tuyau de retour thermostat, 3eme sur le thermostat de egr et le 4ème sur le tuyau de entrer chauffage. Après j'ai ajouté le liquide de refroidissement. Liquide sort bien de 1. Vis de gros tuyau à côté de réservoir 2. Vis de tuyau de retour de thermostat Mais liquide sort pas de vis de thermostat de egr et de vis de tuyau de chauffage. Normalement quand vous ajouté liquide de refroidissement ça droit sort de 4 vis de purge ? Vous pouvez ma aidez svp ?
Okay I’ve been doing this for almost a year lol, I have a 02 x5 e53. The rear heat work great but the problem is the front vents, it gets warm through defrost and footwell but barely warm through front vents (doesn’t get 90 degrees hot). I’ve replaced the control panel, heater control valves, bled the cooling system (holds coolant). Would the heater core be stopped up if the rear heat works? Im at a complete lose and really don’t feel like going to the dealership.
Im with you..It definately would so that should be disconnected at the tank so whatever is blocking the coolant comes out before going back in the system
It will push the “gunk” into the surge tank. That’s where the return hose routes to. Then the surge tank gets drained by disconnecting that same hose which connects to the bottom of the tank, hence abs easy cleaning. All 3 and 5 series in the year with the I6s are set up this way.
@@Pete_Tech_ So I pushed air through the inlet side of the core, there seemed to be a blockage. gets warm but at 2500-3000 RPMs only.. then cools when the engine is at idle..? BTW where is the blend door on the X3's any idea?
While I appreciate your effort it would have been better to demonstrate all these as opposed to just talking about it. I mean, when I disconnect the top hose to blow through it, do I have to have my reservoir cap open of closed? because remember the gunk from the heater core gotta go somewhere right? and if it makes its way into the reservoir with the caps on, won't it just recycle itself back into the system creating a vicious cycle of problems?
Generally speaking, no. unless its a t-stat issue. if the cooling system is working but your heater core is blocked etc. the engine will be cool but you'll have no heat.
Omg shut up So much needless information all we need to know is how to get heat back in the car. See how it has a little slot in it why do we need to know that great it takes a flat head screwdriver.good vid otherwise
2003 E46 320i. So, for about a week the low coolant level warning light was coming on intermitently, yet everytime I checked it the level was correct. The engine temperature was showing normal and the heater worked fine. At the end of the week, the day after returning from a drive a drive of around 280km, the heater started blowing only cold air, not even slightly warm. I watched this video and because I did not have the necessary tools to hand to strip away the air box, I decided to jump straight to bleeding the collant system, following the instruction in the video, as it was easy to do and required only a screwdriver and a big jug of coolant. For around five minutes I gradually added coolant to the reservoir and watched as lots of air bubbles came out of the bleed screw hole. When there were no more bubbles coming through, only coolant, I screwed down the bleed screw, siphoned excess coolant from the reservoir to achieve the correct lervel and replaced ther pressure cap. Within a minute of starting the engine, hot air was coming from the heater, and there has been no recurrence of the low coolant level warning light. Thanks Pete!
Awesome!! Glad to hear!!
Exactly the problem I’m having on my 5speed 05’ 325i. Coolant level goes on and off every now and then.
U have to change the coolent level sensor
Great explanation of the coolant and heater system interaction! I totally replaced every component in the coolant system in 2020. But I didn’t replace the heater control valve and I believe it’s stuck open. My reasoning is that no matter what, the blower blows hot air. It’s the opposite of most ppls problems - where they have not heat. Your video was great context and information about it all. I look forward to following the system bleed video when I get to that point. Thanks!
I appreciate the compliments!
I have a 2002 325ci, did you do the entire coolant system at once?
I used water hose through the top hose instead of the air blower.....
....and it did the job .....
You are literally a life saviour!!! I replaced all the cooling system hoses and pipes and i didn’t had any heat coming through. Now i understand why
Thanks you helped a guy out with a old BMW winter beater also!
Great stuff, I wish all how to videos could be so clear. I´ve been struggling with an E83 X3 since I bought it to get any heat, tried bleeding numerous times and switched the heater control valve. Now I think I know the issue so will try this tomorrow! Thank you.
Trying to diagnose this today. Coolant Expansion tank cracked, replaced it, bled (ton of air), then stable coolant level. Still no heat. Will try again tomorrow. Great Video!
Thanks for the knowledge! Hoping this fixes my no heat issue in my ‘02. Hoping to get it into the shop next week
great vid. just replaced my expansion tank today and discovered I now have no heat.
Spot on !! Really helped me out it's working !!
Thanks !!
Anytime!
Seems simple enough going to try tomorrow hopefully it works really informative and helpful video tho!
Very good education video, good audio and video quality.
Thank you!!
Extremely helpful to me. Many thanks!
Pete, great video. I had the opposite problem, no cool air b/c I think the valve was stuck closed, and it kept breaking the fuse. I swapped out the control valve, and now I don't have heat! I didn't correctly bleed the coolant, this is the first thing I'll check. Thanks again.
Did you figure out the problem?
@@KoolAidSquirt really weird thing is happening, it started to drain the battery overnight so I unplugged the fuse. Now I'm back to square one. Since it's close to Winter I'm not concerned about not having cold air. Warm airs coming in great. Might be the controller itself, not really sure.
@@gsdubz9931 I see
I changed the heater control valve to a new one (had another guy to see if it worked properly before installing and it did) i removed both hoses from the heater core and did a reverse flush and it was good flow with clean water, i bled the coolant system and still no heat, any tips?
I need to figure this out today. I'll try to use this video to help.
It worked! thanks!
Quick question 🙋♂️ I have a 2000 bmw 328ci with 84k miles. So I was driving to work and had the heater on while I was driving I heard a noise in the vents that turn off and turn back on but this time it was not blowing hot air. It was blowing cold air when I had the temperature at 73. The seat warmers working but no heat from the vents
This was super helpful. I just replaced my entire cooling system and have no circulation. The buoy from the last tank that busted came out in pieces so I’m hoping I don’t need to fully flush everything. But I had circulation after replacing the water pump and after replacing radiator (last component) it stopped circulating. I admit though I didn’t have my car parked on an incline or jacked, and I haven’t heard of bleeding while running the car before. I’m going to try both and see if that gets it. If no dice then I’ll try this method you suggested. Thank you !
Thx, man for your video l mean the best video you save me to pay 800 hundred bucks, l love you, and keep going
You the best!!!
I have hot air coming from the windshield vents and from the feet but when i put it on vent it comes out cold.. is it the same problem or is it something else
If you remove the heater hoses at the heater control valve and want to plug them while working on the HCV, wine corks fit perfectly.
Good idea!
you can buy proper plastic pipe clamps for a few bucks
Here's me just draining the expansion tank multiple times haha.
In my case, I believe the heater core is getting hot, but no air is moved on "heat" settings on my 02 E46. AC Blows nice and cool, but on "heat" settings, the blower is working but no air from any of the outlets. Oh, and E46 started in 1997 and went to 2006.
I knew he said the wrong years... I'm just glad someone else noticed.
The hoses that go to the control valve are not hot what could be the problem?
If the heater core is clogged/blocked should not the engine overheat as the coolant cant circulate?
Great information
I tried to flush and bleed the system but still I got no warm .. I supposed it could be the sensor sitting inside where the radio are behind that
01 330ci, both heater core lines are hot behind the valve. Only getting heat after giving throttle. It's warm unless I lay onto the throttle. Letting off gets cold. It's set to heat on the vent adjuster too. Pretty stumped honestly.
Low coolant, air in the system, or bad head gasket.
@Pete_Tech_ coolants full, had the cooling system rebuild long enough now, no air.
Have already checked for bad head.
Coolant level seems spot on I have not had too add since I smacked a deer in November and rebuilt the front end and other stuff. Heat worked perfectly until last week.
good job Pete! thanks for saving me $$$.
Great information..thank you...
Hello I did blow inner and outlet pipe form heater valve so 1 air can pass ND other one no functioning like its block or is it normal
Been wracking my brain on why, when recirculating is off, the damn passenger center vent doesn't blow as hot as all other vents.
Push the old recirculating button and that vent blows equally as hot. In general though, the cabin heat is quite intense and will make you sweat if kept at 91. There's nothing significantly wrong with the system, but not knowing is killing me.
I've lately noticed the good old hvac system, especially on the passenger floorboard duct is spitting out small chunks of foam. Would the deterioration of this foam on certain places on the heater core allow outside/cold air to leak past the core and into the passenger vent? This would make sense because when recirculating is on, I'm just heating the already hot cabin air and no outside air is leaking past the core.
YES! I believe you nailed it!
Wow, that was the best explaination for the valve. Thank you. In my case i let the car warm up for 15mins. I turn the heat temp to what like 97 or all the way high and the blower setting to high. I get a little warm air coming out of the vents. Then in my dash guage for temp. I noticed that the needle sits right about before the middle. And when i start driving it slowly goes down a bit. Is that mean my thermostat is stuck open?
That’s exactly what that sounds like. Hope that helps!
But in the summer tho it stays on the middle and doesn’t move. Only happen in the winter.
Thank you for educating me.
My pleasure!
I have a 2002 330xi I have heat when I drive but not at idle. What would cause that.
This worked great for me. Took a while to bleed all the air out of the hvac system (as expected) but it fixed the issue at least for now. is this a sign that my heater core is on it's way out?
Eh,maybe. Just monitor it!
I have a 325i doesnt blow heat warm air only blows cold ac only blow warm or close to hot air when it overheats
I don't have coolant coming from the bottom hose of the heater valve. Can you help please ?
my interior doesn't give me air at all any idea why? i tried everything regarding electrical parts, even took out the vent motors that are under the windshield outside nothing seems out of ordinary.
to explain my situation, 1 month ago i went on a trip, i came back 2 days later AC was blowing hot and cold air perfectly fine. left car in parked in my yard for 1 day and snow started coming but not enough to frost just bellow 0 a little bit... 2 days later i go to town no AC ... prior to this everything worked fine.. i checked relays, spiked thingy under glovebox, AC blower motor, the outside relays inside relays everything is fine. the controller unit works fine opens closes vents just motor doesn't spin to push in air... im confused now cause motor i took it out and tested on a car battery and runs perfectly fine.. im out of ideas what it can be... is there like a safety cpu thing that might block the air motor to spin?
heyy what do you think flushing from the outlet towards the inlet, that would be back flush isn't it? good elaborate explanation because not everyone is a smart ass like some in comments and may need every basic info!
Forgive me I know you get all kind of Jack leg advice but could you not use two hose pinch off pliers for the two hoses at the heater core disconnect them and just blow the heater core itself out? Thanks for the video though brother!
Do you find the heater valve goes bad very often? I have a BMW where the heat wont turn off.
Well that could be a number of things. Definitely could be a blend door actuator as well! Those issues can be harder to pin-point
Broooo i have problem with no heat i have just cold air. I will try tomorrow to check the valve because intake is hot that goes inlet its hot, so its probably valve not opening. Also i have refiled my coolant 2 days ago it was empty. Beecause i ahve leaks :D
Now will try to check the valve and i am gonna let you know did i fix it.
I checked inside electro motors that opens the inside those thing i dont know how to say it i have digital airconditioner. I have E46 316i from 2000.
How would you flush a heater core for a 95 E38 740i? It has 3 hoses going into the firewall and I'm having a hard time figuring how to route how to flush the heater core. Thanks!
The first thing you’re gonna wanna do is start the engine and get the engine hot. Then you’re gonna wanna feel for whichever hose is the hottest. That is your heater core feed hose. Next remove the hose closest to it (most likely the return, if unsure remove both). Then use a light amounts of compressed air through the inlet side that was the hardest and feel where the air rushes out that is your return. Then you’re gonna want to flush from the return side to the side that was the hottest.
Both of my hoses to the heater control valve are just warm, with the engine fully hot. No heat at all. Any suggestions? E83 X3, M54 engine.
Blend door on the inside not fully going hot? That would be a guess.
Hi 🙋🏻♂️ good video thank you. But Can you make a video of how to uncap the heater hoses please?
Thanks for the help man!
Dear dude
I have change the coolant heater valve, change the sensor inside Cabin, blow both hoses and could see dirty cooler water,but still no heat in my vent. Both inlet and outlet hoses are hot. I can’t understand why I have still no heat!
Please help Iam freezing in -10 C degree
Heater core has to be plugged at that point!
What about if both hoses to the heater valve are cold? I have tried swapping thermostats. Weird thing is i got this problem after doing a engine swap. No stop leak in cooling
Both hoses are cold? That would be indicative of a flow issue or potential blockage in the heater core. (No flow through the core if it’s plugged solid). I’d start with seeing if the water pump is flowing properly. Squeeze the upper hose together and have someone rev it up hard, you should feel a surge.
@@Pete_Tech_ i disconnected the top hose at the heater valve and coolant was flowing out both sides. Flushed and reversed flush with good floe. And couldnt feel a surge. New metal water pump aswell.
First I would verify the cooling system itself is building block temperature properly. If the cooling system gets to operating temp and there is no blockage in the feed hose, there would have to be no flow, which would be nearly impossible if the water pump is working correctly. Take the hoses off and verify there is no blockage on the feed or return. You can contact me on insta @ Pete_Tech_
How much coolant did you let fall in the intake???
Only half a gallon
@@Pete_Tech_ lol
And if your heater core is hot but you still get cold air, then what?
Heater core is hot hot on both inlet and outlet? If the heater core itself is getting very hot, then there is an issue with the HVAC mode operation inside the dash, but typically it’s just hot on the inlet side of the heater core, not the outlet, indicating the core is plugged.
good video
My e46 only blows hot air when the car is in drive
Hey friend. I don't have coolant in the feed pipe from the block. I disconnected the hoses fom the heater valve to check everything and i found that there is no coolant coming from the engine block. I filled up the coolant to max level and started the car with the pipes off from the heater valve as well, but still no coolant coming from the feed hose from engine. Please help 🙏
Can it be the plastic piece from the engine bloc blocked which connects the two pipes ) one fat pipe which goes to the coolant reservoir and the other to the electrical pump ?? One pipe which goes to the has coolant réservoir has circulation of coolant but the pipe which goes to the electrical pump has no coolant circulation. Both pipe are connected to that plastic piece on the engine bloc. Please help 🙏
Hello. aujourd'hui j'ai retiré la electrovanne de chauffage pour tester. J'ai fixé un tuyau enbas de electrovanne (entré de liquide) et un tuyau en haut de electrovanne (sortie de liquide). J'ai allumé le chauffage de ma voiture (bmw e46 320d 150cv de l'année 2004) pour que la electrovanne commence à marcher et j'ai ajouté liquide avec un bouteille dans le tuyau de rentrer (le tuyau de electrovanne enbas). Liquide sort bien au sortie (tuyau en haut de electrovanne). Ça vais dire electrovanne marche très bien. Mais il y a toujours pas de liquide dans le tuyau de bloc moteur (le tuyau fine que entre dans electrovanne (enbas). Est ce que ça peux être l'aire bloqué dans c'est tuyau ? Comment je peux débouché ce tuyau svp ?
Pour purger j'ai ouvrir le bouchon de réservoir, les 4 vis plastique de purge (primier sur le gros tuyau à côté réservoir, 2eme sur le tuyau de retour thermostat, 3eme sur le thermostat de egr et le 4ème sur le tuyau de entrer chauffage. Après j'ai ajouté le liquide de refroidissement. Liquide sort bien de
1. Vis de gros tuyau à côté de réservoir
2. Vis de tuyau de retour de thermostat
Mais liquide sort pas de vis de thermostat de egr et de vis de tuyau de chauffage. Normalement quand vous ajouté liquide de refroidissement ça droit sort de 4 vis de purge ?
Vous pouvez ma aidez svp ?
Okay I’ve been doing this for almost a year lol, I have a 02 x5 e53. The rear heat work great but the problem is the front vents, it gets warm through defrost and footwell but barely warm through front vents (doesn’t get 90 degrees hot). I’ve replaced the control panel, heater control valves, bled the cooling system (holds coolant). Would the heater core be stopped up if the rear heat works? Im at a complete lose and really don’t feel like going to the dealership.
curious to know what you eventually had to do
Yeah and any update?
But wouldn't this just push the "gunk" out into the cooling system again?
Im with you..It definately would so that should be disconnected at the tank so whatever is blocking the coolant comes out before going back in the system
It will push the “gunk” into the surge tank. That’s where the return hose routes to. Then the surge tank gets drained by disconnecting that same hose which connects to the bottom of the tank, hence abs easy cleaning. All 3 and 5 series in the year with the I6s are set up this way.
What if both of the heater valves hoses remain cool even when the car has ran for 10 minutes.?
Low coolant, bad thermostat, or the core is plugged solid. I would check on coolant level and thermostat first.
@@Pete_Tech_ So I pushed air through the inlet side of the core, there seemed to be a blockage. gets warm but at 2500-3000 RPMs only.. then cools when the engine is at idle..? BTW where is the blend door on the X3's any idea?
While I appreciate your effort it would have been better to demonstrate all these as opposed to just talking about it. I mean, when I disconnect the top hose to blow through it, do I have to have my reservoir cap open of closed? because remember the gunk from the heater core gotta go somewhere right? and if it makes its way into the reservoir with the caps on, won't it just recycle itself back into the system creating a vicious cycle of problems?
Will your car over heat if the heat isn't working?
Generally speaking, no. unless its a t-stat issue. if the cooling system is working but your heater core is blocked etc. the engine will be cool but you'll have no heat.
E46 started in 99 fyi
FYI, he was speaking about lci
"It get cold like Minnesota"
You should talk slower. It will help from the slow talking you already have.
Yo he talks too much. Get to the point
This channel may not be for you. It’s for people
who like to learn, not find easy answers 🙃
Omg shut up So much needless information all we need to know is how to get heat back in the car. See how it has a little slot in it why do we need to know that great it takes a flat head screwdriver.good vid otherwise
Don´t be rude, the guys is trying to help you out, didn´t your mother teach you any manners?
Note to self 3:13