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Since this is the 3.5 HR. As far as torque sequence and specs its the same exact thing on the 3.7 VHR correct? I just want to be triple sure

Boy you certainly did a lot of scratching in there and didn’t necessarily get all the carbon!

There is an easy and actually "right" way to disconnect the electric connetions. It's the "push/pull'" method. A screwdriver will damage the connectors. You can find a video here how to do it right:ruclips.net/video/MVVGtGzp9WI/видео.htmlsi=YbrAURpIjsjAarDh

This can only diagnose Insanity! never seen anything as reckless and dangerous as this method....please remove this video immediately! you will not be happy if somone tried your genius method and lived miserably after with one arm!

You're supposed to also bleed it from the heater core bleeder screw as well

I have a Yukon 5.3l with these same codes and I checked the dipstick and had a strong smell of gas from the oil. I just purchased this vehicle a few days ago and Im worried the pumps been leaking for some time and reducing viscosity of the oil. Im going to drain the oil and hope I dont see any metallic shavings. You this failure is common on gm ls engines. Have you seen engine damage from contaminated oil from a leaking fuel pump?

Great video. The cog I replaced with the wood drift key I ended up doing was taking a rubber malt to hammer the cog on the supercharger kit 😅. My question is, how and what are the torque specs on the bolt you put in the cog belt. Thank you.

Amazon? Nah, RockAuto.

Oookayyy, Mmmkayyy

does anyone have a part no. for the 2010 sho? I am getting mixed results.

Nice finger nails

I changed the heater control valve to a new one (had another guy to see if it worked properly before installing and it did) i removed both hoses from the heater core and did a reverse flush and it was good flow with clean water, i bled the coolant system and still no heat, any tips?

Some mechanics say not to turn AC or heater on and they say to keep rpm at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes or so. Others like you say to turn AC / heater on. Which method is true?

Just turn the tire by hand geez.... you will feel it in the coil anyhow....

might try this tomorrow 😭

I’ve been a tech 15 years. Marking the belt is actually my preferred method over buying every manufacturers specific tool, or trying to get the timing marks just right and having to decide one rib in front of it or one rib behind it. Nice job. About to tackle the boss’ car, wanted an idea of what I’m in for. Thank you.

Thanks for the video. Obviously proceed at your own risk. As mentioned by others using a yard stick/wood stick is much safer for the average DIYer. BTW nice lift and helper. I didn't turn off the stabilizer and car on front jacks would not go above 7 MPH. Car sounds like airplane above 40 MPH worse with slight right turns. Suspect driver side wheel bearing. Both front tires have zero play. Tires rotated with no change.

do you absolutely have to count the links after you rotate/spin the engine?? i made sure i was on timing(100% sure). and put timing right back on tdc after i spun it around several times.

Good stuff Pete, congrats!

Hell yeah

Sounds nice

"we're not gonna wait, we're gonna get right into it" then it's over..? Is there a part 2 or what? If so why not post a link to it in your description?

Thanks for sharing

This is wrong

This younger generation has to be the most ridiculous with the slang and Abbreviations . Half the time you can’t understand what he saying , sounds like he’s got a cock in his mouth. This gen loves sounding like mumbling idiots. Probably why trash mumble rap is thriving. If cancel culture needs to cancel something , I wish they’d cancel mumble rap and everyone who speaks this way.

GREAT JOB VERY WELL EXPLAIN LOVE IT.

Super informative vid, clear reasoning, keep em coming.

Dude wear some safety glasses when you use that rotary wire brush, you don’t need a stray wire coming off and into your eyeball!!

Didn't see nothing no bleed

Do you have down pipe ?

Can I get the name of the song in the background?the one playing at like min 6.30 in the video

I just opened up my timing cover on my vq37hr and one of the phasers lines up perfect while the other is off it’s near it but off by maybe a tooth or 2 and j was getting codes p0011 and p0021 with a horrible idle would idle at .4 rpm at cold start and wouldn’t rev past 1rpm and even to start I had to hold the gas about halfway the gallery gasket is torn in only 1 spot aswell do you think I should save it I already have the timing kit water pump gallery gaskets or just motor swap

Exactly what I was looking for, the fear of inching the cams to compensate for the chain’s sprocket engagement was a bit frightening until I watched your video. Thank you for this explanation and tomorrow when I receive the new chain I’ll know exactly how to engage it on the tooth.

How's the cog holding up so far? No belt tearing issues?

that was super good. very easy to follow and understand. thanks for that one its probably one of the more important ones i have watched. thanks for that one.

You forgot to tell us that the chain guide on the right has to be put on before the phaser😢 Now I’m off to buy another set of bolts

Yup I’m out, not doing this water pump job. Too much could go wrong. Freaking Engineers

how can I just make sure my car feels like it has pressure because below a half tank the car feeks sluggish every time I add more gas over that half tank it feels like it's faster. it feels so sluggish when it's getting low. I really dont want to do everything in this video. I just want to make sure it feels normal and nit weak with 1/4 tank.

How do you remove the rad cap housing in order to remove cover , Is it threaded ??

Jesus your voice is anoying

Brass putty knifes are your friend for this job. 6 minimum to avoid any damage from prying.

🔥🔥🔥

There any reason to upgrade to it?

I’m having a 5v reference code also a high pressure voltage high code…. Any idea?

I have a noise that sound like this but not 100% sure. I did the shakedown but no play. I will try to use a stethoscope and run. I agree on the comments about being under the car while doing this test is dangerous in the USA. Not really from a 3rd world country when then do this all the time. You’re a legend man

gracias

Thats not "Balancing the rotating assembly" all you are doing is static balancing the rods and pistons. If you send the assembly to a machine shop to be balanced they would start of with the cranking on a rotating machine that spins it up to 400 rpm they would then balance the small end firts then the side with the clutch then add the clutch ect ect. If it came back being to grams out then you are going to the wrong machine shop. That is the only way to balance a rotating assembly

what happens if chunks got into engine with the GDI cleaner?

Excellent video on how to botch a timing belt job on a modern TDI

Thanks for this. The manual calls for removing the oil pan, but I'm glad that's not required. If I decide to do this myself, it will be my first time removing a transmission.