This was the best tutorial I could find on RUclips. It helped my job to go easier than I thought it would. I found that a 1 1/2" galvanized pipe cap (about $7 at Home Depot) fits over the bushings perfectly and give you something solid to hammer on. That combined with putting the bushings and the freezer for an hour or so allowed me to get each of them completely seated in about 30 seconds. I cut the rubber out of the old bushings. It seemed like that made the metal part of the bushing easier to remove.
Did mine yesterday with a hammer and a chisel . First i ran my sawzall and cut a slot in the rubber . Then a couple good hits with a hammer and they popped right out . Found a galvanized pipe reducer in the garage that fit perfectly around the bushing and hammered them home . So yes , you can do them without an air chisel . Was easy .
Just did the same job in my driveway, cleaned out all the rubber and cut the race with a Sawzall twice front to back and it popped right out. I also took front tires off and came at it from the side. Your video was like turning the lights on,thanks!
not saying you wrong and that dose work. ther is a peace of flat bar with holes in it that's a puller helps get those out and in.mines old and I chalk it with wood. secondly and most importantly. " try freezing that bushing before install", just in the freezer in your fridge at home. Don't use dry ice directly could take from the bushings life time.
Thanks for this! After watching your video I did this today on my 98 E250. I cut the rubber out first and the bushing seemed to fold up easier and came out without too much trouble.
the best tutorial I could find on this hands down. i replaced with polyurethane bushings using a bolt and washers from lowes, but I would not have attempted the job without your help. great video!!!
I did this job on my 2000 e350 back in 2006 or so. I used a heavy piece of angle iron with a hole bored in the bend, all thread, big washers and nuts. At the time, I did it with a 1/2 inch ratchet but would recommend an impact gun. It pressed in and out flawlessly albeit exhaustingly slow with the tools I had available at the time. I still have the angle iron in my toolbox JIC!
Thanks for the video and information. Since this is just for me, not a customer, I'm going to try jamming a piece of rubber in the oblong hole to make it round.
Dude you’re the man. Excellent video helped me big time, links and everything! This kind of stuff will be monetized better in the future bc you deserve more than 99%of the filth on here. Keep it up🤘
Thanks for the video I think I will do this on my E-150 tomorrow Whenever you are driving on the highway at high speed and for some reason you have to stop hard, the van moves terrible bad from one side to the other
I have replaced those bushings and now you can go at 80 miles or more and brake hard and stays extremely stable 😎👍🏼 Now I need to replace the sock absorbers and I think this problem will be resolved 100%
That will make a big difference. I just got another van in this week, needs sway bar bushings and lots of other stuff. More vids to come soon. Be sure to check the shock E series video I have, those lower bolts tend to snap.
Just had my 2005-E250 truck in for state inspection- failed for a bad sway bar end bushing. Wanted about 180 for the work. I have compressor and many air tools (incl air hammer) and mostly do all my own auto work. Bought 2 bushings from local auto supply shop for 19.00 although only one is bad- thanks for the video as I will be replacing them shortly! So, my labor, pleasure to know it will be done right and a major cost savings! Thanks again!
Just got a 2005 econoline and driver side sway bushing can see light through. Hopefully that helps solve the wandering. Thanks for the video and wish me luck on the repair!
For those attempting this, I found the loaner ball joint press tool from AutoZone makes this press in and out pretty easily with an old air gun, though also doable with a ratchet. I also used an old bearing race that almost matched the OD to get old bushing out.
I did a set today. From the rear of the bushing once rubber removed I took a fairly Long chisel and caved in one edge of the bushing then once there was enough material folded inward I just set the chisel on that ledge of material and drive out the bushing very quickly. I did spray some PB blaster before hand. Going back in with the bushing I was able to use a ball joint press cup adapter that perfectly fit around the rubber of the bushing and into the ledge of the cup ….took about 20 seconds to pound the bushing in. I also did the radius arm bushings, new coil springs and shocks. The hardest part of the job was tightening the top nut on the new drivers side shock…..very limited space. I used the original nut and washer from the original shock and held that top nut with a 15mm flex head ratcheting wrench. I turned the shock with a 16mm open end wrench but had to grind the wrench thin on my bench grinder to be able to fit on the embossed hex nut on top of the upper shock dome.
Rides like a new van. I have a video on the shock replacement. The drivers side is not fun. Some models have an access hole in the drivers side floor pan.
@@ozzstars_cars Mine had a hole with I believe was the parking brake cable and a grommet there but didn’t mess with that. My van rode pretty good but I need new tires and an alignment but I do have some side to side play in the front steering while moving the wheels back and forth with tires off the ground. Everything seems tight except it seems the play is coming from slop in my steering box.
This is exactly what's wrong with my Ford E-250 06 model. I was washing the van yesterday and noticed the passenger side sway bar bushing wasn't even in the hole at all. So I don't have air tools but its gotta be done fast before I leave for work tomorrow.
I have 08 E250 Van - it does not have any bushing in those holes. The sway bar is connected to link pins on each side - is this updated design or what?
Well done, Glenn. Not sure if i remember but i think too much lube is used. The last of the great Ford vans. Congrats on 10 k subs. You deserve many more than that.
Do you have any suggestions on removing the radiator support bushings for a 2002 ford e350 xlt? Can’t find any info. Are these bushings position 1 for part replacement?
You are right about big nasty but the closest one I could borrow was about a 10 hour round trip drive away. I need to update my air hammer. There is a Corvette video coming up but the preventative maintenance can be applied to any vehicle. Winter sucks. :-( Take care man.
Hey there, love the video! I need to do this on my e450 super duty asap and it looks like it has the same part. When I go check the link you have it doesn't look like these come with the metal sleeve. I know yours did so just checking. And is it necessary to replace the sleeve instead of just the rubber? First time with this. Thanks again!
@@ozzstars_cars ah I see. So the ones you put the link for come with the sleeve? And then if I went with poly, I would remove the old ones sleeves and all, and just put in the poly?
Great Video, Thanks. I think I'm convinced now to go after-market Sway bar like a Hellwig. The bushing design seems poor and does not seem to last long enough, my E450 are worn out at 50kmiles. Also looks like a tough job and a lot of work for a old man with bad shoulders. maybe some poly bushing could be better if they make them.
Appreciate the video brother. It's just a shame that I'm just now seeing this video because the past 2 days I've been fighting my bushing but I finally got it in after going to buy some galvanized pipe. And yes it is amazing the difference that the van handles now it's almost like I got a front end alignment and new tires, the works LOL anyway I just want to say thank you for the video
Hey Ozz I have a 1997 E 250 van my bracket that holds my shocks on in the rear cracked. Where can I buy one of them, and or do you have a video on how you replace it? It doesn’t seem that hard. Just have to un install the shocks. Thanks Brother! Your videos are great!
@@ozzstars_cars well thanks for getting back to me! I appreciate it. My van is old but in great shape. It has rust on the bottom. I’ll have to replace the sway bar assembly it’s rusted bubbled up rust. It has some play in the Steering. Your video will help me out a lot with that. I’ve had some brake line issues! Had to replace part of the back where the differential is because it was leaking brake fluid when I stopped hard I lost a lot of it so I had to get it fixed but they put a Band-Aid on it replaced part of it. But it looks like I’m gonna have to replace the whole thing in the future and I know that’s gonna be a big deal. A lot of time to do it. But hey man keep the videos Rocking my friend! Tazz Out!!!
@@ozzstars_cars cool thanks brother. I like your videos because you’re a regular candy dude and it shows in your videos I’m actually a Baltimore Maryland guy raised in Maryland. But now I live in Clearwater Florida that’s a big change. But yeah brother I’ll check them out so help me out a lot thanks appreciate it
Great video thanks brother. Looks like time for a new air hammer. Great job on the bushings and congrats on the 10k. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
Best way to remove them bushings. Put a 38mm sockets in front. So the bushing can clear the inside. Then use a seal driver adapter on the back. That is just a little bigger. Then put a bolt and nut through them. Then tighten.. They press right out..
@@derfiemcgoo9673Just remove the sway bar. And a bearing seal driver has holes on them. As they fit on a driver. Just use the right size from the kit. Get a long bolt and nut that fits all the way through. tighten till it comes out..Install in reverse order.
Hi. It all makes sense with one exception. Compared to my E-350, I'm wondering how you got any space to work on the _back_ _side_ of the main (round) sway bar bushings? I plan to use a ball joint press, but when I looked on the back side, some other structural component is so close to the bushing that I don't even think I can get the press in the crack. No way I could hammer it out because I couldn't even hit it. Did you remove something else from the back side to give you room to work before taking out the bushing?
I need to change these out on my E-350 and I was thinking, would it be possible to configure a ball joint press to get these in and out? Seems like it would work..
I service a lot of fedex trucks and I’ve replaced a lot of those next time just put the hammer on one side and bend it towards the center and then drive it straight out from the back
I have a e250 and I notice my front driver side tire I hear a rattle when I drive over bumps. I was thinking of replacing the shocks ...has anyone had that problem before. Its a 2002 E250
I'm trying this now and don't know how your sway bar came out so easily. Do you have the van jacked up or anything? My driver's side won't come out. It keeps hitting the tie rod
I have a 98 E-150 V6 "Commercial". My van doesn't look like it came with a sway bar. Can anyone confirm? Getting ready to do ball joints, tie rod ends, rotors and breaks. Was thinking about doing this while I have everything torn apart. Thanks!
@@ozzstars_cars polys appear to be an easier part to remove/Install. The hardest part of the job is removing the old stock sleeved bushing. A reciprocating saw worked perfect.
@@mattharris2398 Thx man, just tracked one down on Jegs, it’s a 1.25” Addco-548…I think it’s the same one Sumit has, do you remember what you paid delivered?
are the rubber ones just easier to work w/? i got the polyurethane bushings, and i can't push the bar ends in to them to save my life. i can't even beat them in w/ a sledge. they fit fine before i squished them in to the frame.
@@ozzstars_cars got it. one side required sitting on the ground, holding the bumper and shoving it in w/ my feet. other side required a tourniquet. apparently, my van is pretty lop-sided. then i discovered the bracket holes were never tapped, so that's awesome
@@ozzstars_cars I have a question. Same job on a 94 e150. The new bushings I bought are rubber with no metal sleeve. Do I need to remove the metal sleeve from the I beam? Have already pressed the new ones in without removing the metal sleeve and Im having a difficult time pushing the sway bar back in.
@@thehappening411 you may want to contact the company you purchased those from. 92-02 all used metal sleeve with rubber bushing bonded. Only the polyurethane sway bar bushings don't have a metal sleeve and go in without a sleeve. I don't use the polys ever. Moog is what I use: amzn.to/2xLBYji
This was the best tutorial I could find on RUclips. It helped my job to go easier than I thought it would.
I found that a 1 1/2" galvanized pipe cap (about $7 at Home Depot) fits over the bushings perfectly and give you something solid to hammer on. That combined with putting the bushings and the freezer for an hour or so allowed me to get each of them completely seated in about 30 seconds. I cut the rubber out of the old bushings. It seemed like that made the metal part of the bushing easier to remove.
I like the pipe cap tip. 👍
This worked so well. Thank you so much.
Did mine yesterday with a hammer and a chisel . First i ran my sawzall and cut a slot in the rubber . Then a couple good hits with a hammer and they popped right out . Found a galvanized pipe reducer in the garage that fit perfectly around the bushing and hammered them home . So yes , you can do them without an air chisel . Was easy .
Good way to get the job done!
Just did the same job in my driveway, cleaned out all the rubber and cut the race with a Sawzall twice front to back and it popped right out.
I also took front tires off and came at it from the side.
Your video was like turning the lights on,thanks!
Good news John!
I made two cuts with my Sawzall as well. It worked. Sure does handle better already.
Nice video, simple, good audio, good camera angles and lighting. Exactly what people will want when they come searching.
Thanks Dave, as you know it takes extra effort to make it like that but it's worth the energy to have a quality product.
It’s good that you’re tapping it around the edges and not smacking the center! 👌🏽
That's how I work my foreplay magic! 😜
@@ozzstars_cars lol.
not saying you wrong and that dose work. ther is a peace of flat bar with holes in it that's a puller helps get those out and in.mines old and I chalk it with wood. secondly and most importantly. " try freezing that bushing before install", just in the freezer in your fridge at home. Don't use dry ice directly could take from the bushings life time.
Thanks! That was a really a big help. Appreciate you sharing. Good man.
You're welcome Franklin!
Thanks for this! After watching your video I did this today on my 98 E250. I cut the rubber out first and the bushing seemed to fold up easier and came out without too much trouble.
All fixed, nice!
the best tutorial I could find on this hands down. i replaced with polyurethane bushings using a bolt and washers from lowes, but I would not have attempted the job without your help. great video!!!
That's good news, thanks for the comment!
Thank you Sir! I am a sole proprietor and depend on my 2005 E150 for field type electronics service. You're video is a God send.
You're welcome Russ
I did this job on my 2000 e350 back in 2006 or so. I used a heavy piece of angle iron with a hole bored in the bend, all thread, big washers and nuts. At the time, I did it with a 1/2 inch ratchet but would recommend an impact gun. It pressed in and out flawlessly albeit exhaustingly slow with the tools I had available at the time. I still have the angle iron in my toolbox JIC!
Whatever works best is the way to go. Thanks for the comment
Oh so good! Thanks so. I now got the clue to why my newly acquired bus sways. Thanks buddy!!
Thanks for the video and information. Since this is just for me, not a customer, I'm going to try jamming a piece of rubber in the oblong hole to make it round.
This will make my day I have to change the sway bar bushing for a 98 e150 van thanks for the video ✌️✌️
Great video. Exactly what I was looking for and you’re a good teacher. Thanks! 👍
You're welcome Kenneth, thanks for the comment! -Ozz
You made my life a lot more enjoyable . Thanks for sharing your expertise knowledge as I'm all set to attack thee impossible ! 🤠
You can do it!
Dang, this is awesome how to video! Its like having my dad next to me and telling me what to do...without the yelling and screaming!
LoL
Your a good teacher brother. Blessings
Thanks Jason!
Dude you’re the man. Excellent video helped me big time, links and everything! This kind of stuff will be monetized better in the future bc you deserve more than 99%of the filth on here. Keep it up🤘
Glad to hear, thanks Austin.
I changed rims from stock to les swab specials and the offset helped a lot on sway
LLP LLP LLP 0
I have the same problem with my Ford van, this saved me a lot of time thank you so much
Thanks for the video
I think I will do this on my E-150 tomorrow
Whenever you are driving on the highway at high speed and for some reason you have to stop hard, the van moves terrible bad from one side to the other
Thanks ozzstar, this vídeo help me to change the bushing On the sway bar of My Ford Econoline 350 1999, salutes from Navojoa sonora, Mexico
That's great news! 👍
I have replaced those bushings and now you can go at 80 miles or more and brake hard and stays extremely stable 😎👍🏼
Now I need to replace the sock absorbers and I think this problem will be resolved 100%
That will make a big difference. I just got another van in this week, needs sway bar bushings and lots of other stuff. More vids to come soon. Be sure to check the shock E series video I have, those lower bolts tend to snap.
Just had my 2005-E250 truck in for state inspection- failed for a bad sway bar end bushing. Wanted about 180 for the work. I have compressor and many air tools (incl air hammer) and mostly do all my own auto work. Bought 2 bushings from local auto supply shop for 19.00 although only one is bad- thanks for the video as I will be replacing them shortly! So, my labor, pleasure to know it will be done right and a major cost savings! Thanks again!
Knowing it's done right and saving money! Way to go.
@@ozzstars_cars also, thanks for mentioning bolt size! Made it even easier!!
@@estynusca4006I try to keep it 100. You're welcome.
Just got a 2005 econoline and driver side sway bushing can see light through. Hopefully that helps solve the wandering. Thanks for the video and wish me luck on the repair!
Replacement will make a big difference John. Good luck!
Nicely completed. You had fun referencing backdoor and lubing rubbers.
I'm semi-pro when it comes to that kind of stuff. lol
Nice job Glen, will make a big difference.
Thanks Lloyd.
Thanks for video, I am going to replace these on my van as soon as the parts arrive from RockAuto!!!
Good luck Slim.
For those attempting this, I found the loaner ball joint press tool from AutoZone makes this press in and out pretty easily with an old air gun, though also doable with a ratchet. I also used an old bearing race that almost matched the OD to get old bushing out.
Whatever it takes to get the job done right. Thanks for the info.
I did a set today.
From the rear of the bushing once rubber removed I took a fairly
Long chisel and caved in one edge of the bushing then once there was enough material folded inward I just set the chisel on that ledge of material and drive out the bushing very quickly.
I did spray some PB blaster before hand.
Going back in with the bushing I was able to use a ball joint press cup adapter that perfectly fit around the rubber of the bushing and into the ledge of the cup ….took about 20 seconds to pound the bushing in.
I also did the radius arm bushings, new coil springs and shocks.
The hardest part of the job was tightening the top nut on the new drivers side shock…..very limited space.
I used the original nut and washer from the original shock and held that top nut with a 15mm flex head ratcheting wrench.
I turned the shock with a 16mm open end wrench but had to grind the wrench thin on my bench grinder to be able to fit on the embossed hex nut on top of the upper shock dome.
Rides like a new van. I have a video on the shock replacement. The drivers side is not fun. Some models have an access hole in the drivers side floor pan.
@@ozzstars_cars
Mine had a hole with I believe was the parking brake cable and a grommet there but didn’t mess with that.
My van rode pretty good but I need new tires and an alignment but I do have some side to side play in the front steering while moving the wheels back and forth with tires off the ground.
Everything seems tight except it seems the play is coming from slop in my steering box.
This is exactly what's wrong with my Ford E-250 06 model. I was washing the van yesterday and noticed the passenger side sway bar bushing wasn't even in the hole at all. So I don't have air tools but its gotta be done fast before I leave for work tomorrow.
You know any tricks on changing glow plugs on an 2006 E350 6.0 turbo diesel. There in a tight spot.
No I have never worked on one of those.
All kinds of humorous references. Nice job pal
Thanks Corey. I was actually censoring myself and holding back, I'm not sure why. :-) Smelled any popcorn lately? haha
Congratulations 10K! And thanks for the great tip! Lube it up before you put it in!😉
I knew you could use some good advice Dan. lol Thanks.
Sway cool!
Sure is. haha
I have 08 E250 Van - it does not have any bushing in those holes. The sway bar is connected to link pins on each side - is this updated design or what?
Awesome vid. We just purchased a 1992 Ford van conversion. The front end is a but sketchy and wobbly will this fix it . Thx much.
Check out my other Ford front end repairs. Ball joints, tie rod ends and shocks are common worn out components.
What sway bar should i get for a 1992 ford falcon rv van ?
Awesome explanation 👏
Thank you bro God bless you 🙏
Well done, Glenn. Not sure if i remember but i think too much lube is used. The last of the great Ford vans. Congrats on 10 k subs. You deserve many more than that.
Thanks so much buddy, I appreciate your long term support!
Great job
@@alexsellsrocks4076 thanks Alex!
Thanks for your video, exactly what I was looking for. 🤘😝
You got it Max!
Off the topic but I have a 2007 ford E150 cargo van and my front tires lean in how can I adjust it. Camber
Do you have any suggestions on removing the radiator support bushings for a 2002 ford e350 xlt? Can’t find any info. Are these bushings position 1 for part replacement?
The two bushings at the bottom? Usually an easy swap out when the radiator is removed.
what is the part numbers or where did you pick them up
The link is pinned in the top comment section and in the description.👍
Very helpful! Thanks for the video.
How is the bottom of that spring mount ? It looks sort of loose
Big nasty would have made short work of that bushing! Any Corvette videos coming up? Almost winterizing time. Ugh.
You are right about big nasty but the closest one I could borrow was about a 10 hour round trip drive away. I need to update my air hammer. There is a Corvette video coming up but the preventative maintenance can be applied to any vehicle. Winter sucks. :-( Take care man.
This is awesome! Thanks!
Glad it helped you Mike!
What exactly does the van wonder about as it is wondering?
When to breakdown next. lol
Wouldn't a bushing sleeve press removal tool make it easier?
Van will wander when swaybar bushings are worn?
The radius arm is in the way for a press, not much clearance.
Always entertaining, Glen!! Great job!!
Appreciate that sir, trying to keep the boredom down to a minimum. Take care man
I have a e350 1990 and it sways and want to fix it it has a over cab box with lift gate low miles
Thank you very much for your great work!
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment. 👍
what is the part number for that bushing, i have a 2004 e350 xlt with a twin beam suspension
Sway Bar Bushing Moog: amzn.to/2xLBYji
Hey there, love the video! I need to do this on my e450 super duty asap and it looks like it has the same part. When I go check the link you have it doesn't look like these come with the metal sleeve. I know yours did so just checking. And is it necessary to replace the sleeve instead of just the rubber? First time with this. Thanks again!
@@acolburn23 the rubber is molded to the steel. If you use polyurethane bushings then no sleeve is necessary.
@@ozzstars_cars ah I see. So the ones you put the link for come with the sleeve? And then if I went with poly, I would remove the old ones sleeves and all, and just put in the poly?
@@acolburn23 that's right. 👍
What tools are used? Where can I buy it?
**Sway Bar Bushing Moog: amzn.to/2xLBYji
**Silicone Grease Lubricant: amzn.to/3cInUdJ
**Ingersoll Rand Air Hammer: amzn.to/2NvsCCZ
Ozzstar's Cars thanks ✌🏻
Great video brother!
Thanks
Great Video, Thanks. I think I'm convinced now to go after-market Sway bar like a Hellwig. The bushing design seems poor and does not seem to last long enough, my E450 are worn out at 50kmiles. Also looks like a tough job and a lot of work for a old man with bad shoulders. maybe some poly bushing could be better if they make them.
Polyurethane bushings are available for this application. An extra hand and it's a gravy job. 👍
Whoa... congrats bud! 10K!! Wooohooo.
Thank you for being such a long time subscriber! I truly appreciate it.
Appreciate the video brother. It's just a shame that I'm just now seeing this video because the past 2 days I've been fighting my bushing but I finally got it in after going to buy some galvanized pipe. And yes it is amazing the difference that the van handles now it's almost like I got a front end alignment and new tires, the works LOL anyway I just want to say thank you for the video
Glad it worked out Travis. Makes driving that beast so much better! Take it easy
THANKS FOR THE INFO 🙏🙏🙏
How many miles did you get on those bushings before they became egg shape?
I don't recall how many miles were on this van but over 100k
Hey Ozz I have a 1997 E 250 van my bracket that holds my shocks on in the rear cracked. Where can I buy one of them, and or do you have a video on how you replace it? It doesn’t seem that hard. Just have to un install the shocks. Thanks Brother! Your videos are great!
Sorry I don't have a video on that.
@@ozzstars_cars well thanks for getting back to me! I appreciate it. My van is old but in great shape. It has rust on the bottom. I’ll have to replace the sway bar assembly it’s rusted bubbled up rust. It has some play in the Steering. Your video will help me out a lot with that. I’ve had some brake line issues! Had to replace part of the back where the differential is because it was leaking brake fluid when I stopped hard I lost a lot of it so I had to get it fixed but they put a Band-Aid on it replaced part of it. But it looks like I’m gonna have to replace the whole thing in the future and I know that’s gonna be a big deal. A lot of time to do it. But hey man keep the videos Rocking my friend!
Tazz Out!!!
@@rightsideoffreedom8004 I have brake line repair videos and Ford van front end repair vids too. Reminds me to out them in a playlist. Thanks
@@ozzstars_cars cool thanks brother. I like your videos because you’re a regular candy dude and it shows in your videos I’m actually a Baltimore Maryland guy raised in Maryland. But now I live in Clearwater Florida that’s a big change. But yeah brother I’ll check them out so help me out a lot thanks appreciate it
@@rightsideoffreedom8004 from blue crabs to sun and surf and bikinis. 😜👍
Good one Glen congratulations on 10000 subscribers !!
Thanks Norman I appreciate all of your long term support!
You're a beautiful man don't let anybody else tell you otherwise. I have an e150 in need of this
Thank you Miguel for your comment.
I have that harbor freight ratchet also love it works amazing
I really like that tool. It's worked great. Did you see the review vid I did on it a while back?
@@ozzstars_cars yes I did see that video that reminds me I have to do a video review
Does the rachet have impact mechanism?
I had one of those, didn't last long. Maybe 4 months.
Congrats on the big One-O! Lots of one liners lol 😆 good work Glen 💪
Thanks Mario I'm preparing for open mic night?
Ozzstar haha yeah we're all waiting 😄
Well done Glen . Imagine back in the day they were an option .😅😅
You mean when the pilgrims came here. I didn't realize you were that young Steve. lol
Ozzstar The pilgrims of the 1970's and 80's eh 😂
Good video Glen. Get a better air hammer. Nice to meet you at Kirkwood highway cruise. Conrad
I am certainly putting that tool on my list to buy. It's time for something more serious. Good catching up Conrad. Take care.
Great video thanks brother. Looks like time for a new air hammer. Great job on the bushings and congrats on the 10k. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
Thanks Scott. A new air hammer is due. Take care and appreciate you stopping by the channel.
Just the tip and plenty of lube. Great advice 😃 congrats on the 10k
Absolutely. It's the right thing to do. hahaha
Good video !
Thanks!
Best way to remove them bushings. Put a 38mm sockets in front. So the bushing can clear the inside. Then use a seal driver adapter on the back. That is just a little bigger. Then put a bolt and nut through them. Then tighten.. They press right out..
Whatever works.👍
@@derfiemcgoo9673Just remove the sway bar.
And a bearing seal driver has holes on them. As they fit on a driver. Just use the right size from the kit. Get a long bolt and nut that fits all the way through. tighten till it comes out..Install in reverse order.
Hi. It all makes sense with one exception. Compared to my E-350, I'm wondering how you got any space to work on the _back_ _side_ of the main (round) sway bar bushings? I plan to use a ball joint press, but when I looked on the back side, some other structural component is so close to the bushing that I don't even think I can get the press in the crack. No way I could hammer it out because I couldn't even hit it. Did you remove something else from the back side to give you room to work before taking out the bushing?
The labor is to involved to remove the radius arm. I replaced a pair of sway bushings yesterday on an '05 E150, took 35 minutes for both.
Nice video, thanks!
it looked good even using that punch glenn get a new air hammer!
Yes. During this job I kept thinking to myself the entire time "I need a new air hammer"!! It's in my future. Take care
I need to change these out on my E-350 and I was thinking, would it be possible to configure a ball joint press to get these in and out? Seems like it would work..
No room for the tool.
Very Helpful! Thanks!
Your welcome.
Hi. I love your videos. I have a 2013 ford e450 that I want to replace some suspension pats. What company do you recommend?
For the money I would go with Moog. Online search.
And for quality?
Great video!!!
Thank you 👍
Great video bro
Thanks Antonio.
Great Video thanks for saving me some money !!!
You're welcome. Take it easy-Glen
I service a lot of fedex trucks and I’ve replaced a lot of those next time just put the hammer on one side and bend it towards the center and then drive it straight out from the back
Plenty of ways. Another that works good is sawzall the metal bushing, comes out even easier.
Alright!... Now i just need to save up for some air tools and a resevoir.
where is your mechanic shop I want to do that in my Ford van
The first state Delaware, USA.
really excellent channel! how'd you get the tie rod end out of the way? did you have to completely remove it?
Removed the cotter pin and nut. Beat on the spindle with a 3lb hammer where the tie rod end connects. Pops right out. Thanks for stopping by Lake.
I have a e250 and I notice my front driver side tire I hear a rattle when I drive over bumps. I was thinking of replacing the shocks ...has anyone had that problem before. Its a 2002 E250
Check all components, especially upper and lower ball joints.
Is there a video on that
ruclips.net/video/SsiBE6MghHM/видео.html
I'm trying this now and don't know how your sway bar came out so easily. Do you have the van jacked up or anything? My driver's side won't come out. It keeps hitting the tie rod
With this setup both wheels can be on the ground during removal and installation. Twist and wiggle raise and lower.
Great video!! What do you guys think about cutting the old bushing in four quadrants with a sawsall and chiseling it the rest of the way out?
That works too.
Y can’t u just use a handheld press or a bolt and washer with a nut and rite size washer would that work ?
Like u would with a ball joint
Great job Glen and as you said there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Congrats on getting 10K subs! 😀👍
Appreciate that Terry. Hope you got home safe. At least you don't have work tomorrow. :-) Take care.
I have a 98 E-150 V6 "Commercial". My van doesn't look like it came with a sway bar. Can anyone confirm? Getting ready to do ball joints, tie rod ends, rotors and breaks. Was thinking about doing this while I have everything torn apart. Thanks!
It better have a sway bar or you'll be wondering all over the road. I have suspension videos on the E series Ford vans. ;-)
Or get a large C clamp a block of wood and a hole saw for your drill and build you a jig
I know I've already said it but congratulations on the 10k
Thanks Leon!
Could it be possible the owner before me took it off ?
My 98 Ford e250 don't have a sway bar
Can a bushing without the metal sleeve be a replacement part?
If an aftermarket polyurethane bushing is used.
@@ozzstars_cars polys appear to be an easier part to remove/Install.
The hardest part of the job is removing the old stock sleeved bushing.
A reciprocating saw worked perfect.
@@ronhawkins7408 I always replace them with Moog rubber bushing like the link in the description.
What aftermarket sway bar should i get for a 1992 Ford falcon Class B RV ? The stock one is too small
I need the same bar thats in this video
@@mattharris2398 Me too, did you ever find one? If so, where. Thx
@@herbyvonderby1849 hello friend, oddly enough sumit racing.
@@mattharris2398 Thx man, just tracked one down on Jegs, it’s a 1.25” Addco-548…I think it’s the same one Sumit has, do you remember what you paid delivered?
👍👍
Pretty sure you can rent or buy a bushing press
The press i have won't fit in that small space.
are the rubber ones just easier to work w/? i got the polyurethane bushings, and i can't push the bar ends in to them to save my life. i can't even beat them in w/ a sledge. they fit fine before i squished them in to the frame.
You did remove the original metal sleeves that the original rubber bushings are molded into?
@@ozzstars_cars there were no sleeves, never had a sway bar installed before. i just pulled one off another van and bought new bushings
@@ozzstars_cars got it. one side required sitting on the ground, holding the bumper and shoving it in w/ my feet. other side required a tourniquet. apparently, my van is pretty lop-sided. then i discovered the bracket holes were never tapped, so that's awesome
@@ozzstars_cars I have a question. Same job on a 94 e150. The new bushings I bought are rubber with no metal sleeve. Do I need to remove the metal sleeve from the I beam? Have already pressed the new ones in without removing the metal sleeve and Im having a difficult time pushing the sway bar back in.
@@thehappening411 you may want to contact the company you purchased those from. 92-02 all used metal sleeve with rubber bushing bonded. Only the polyurethane sway bar bushings don't have a metal sleeve and go in without a sleeve. I don't use the polys ever. Moog is what I use: amzn.to/2xLBYji