I have a question Matt that I don't seem to be able to find an answer to. I'm having a lot of "bounce" in my right hand D key when releasing the key to move up the stack. I feel it hitting my ring finger often. This is a Selmer Mark VI I'm dealing with. I've tried with my repairman with felts and corks to nullify this. Any idea of a solution?
You can help this condition with judicious use of adjustment materials and with the *angle* of force of the spring. If you have giant heavy oversized custom solid (insert magical metal here) resonators that are adding a lot of mass to the key, that can be an unsolvable problem. But otherwise, you can eliminate it with the two things I mention above. I'll probably do a video on the spring thing eventually. But what you need to think of is that as the key moves, it describes an arc through space. The spring pushes against the spring cradle in one direction. If you look at the spring cradle and the spring and make it so that the spring is pushing a little bit down in addition to out/up when the D is fully open (no finger pressure) that can reduce the amount of force the spring is exerting on the key at that angle and reduce bounce.
***** thanks so much for responding Matt. Nah not a heavy resonator. I used the standard sized flat brass Resotechs. I look forward to your video on this. I'm going to link your comment to my repairman. This has definitely been a pain lol
Good video Matt, oh and I had a question, I bought a vintage tenor sax to fix up on my own. It's made in Itally it's serial number is 9XXX. It says Rene Duval on the bell from what I researched it was a stencil made by Orsi. But I can't find anything about the horn online and well the local instrument didn't know. Would you know anything about it? It's my first tenor I'm going to play, been playing alto, well once I fix it up.
I 'thumbed-up' your video Matt, but I do have a criticism: By using the dent balls, you've just modified (arguably) the most critical part of the neck, if not the whole tube. That interior cone, in my humble opinion, should stay the same. Plating? Yes. If not, I'd hard solder an insert into the tuning slide receiver (copper pipe, for example), bore and then ream and lap to fit. Good vid though (as usual).
+David Smart That is a valid point, thank you for pointing that out. I edited the description to say: **NOTE** In the video, I talk about how I fixed the leak on the tuner joint on this horn using dent balls, which I think is a good fix for a joint that is damaged and out of round like this one was (indeed you don't have a lot of choice, and doing it inside the sleeve should put the taper back to as close as original as possible) but If the tube seems undamaged and straight and the leak is from plain old wear or just a poor fit from the factory, brass plating to build up the outer tube or the inner surface of the sleeve receiver is probably the way to go to eliminate the possibility of changing and otherwise perfect bore.
***** Oh, no doubt it's a difficult repair and I think you've done well: the inner taper is just something I would have avoided at all costs. I've never actually done the repair as I suggested (I silver plated the interior of the reciver ~ my boss had a kitten), and now, in hindsight, I think it would be extremely difficult to hold the receiver in the lathe to machine it at all without removing those guides...no thanks. Forget that suggestion. All my repairs are from a time when it wasn't fashionable (or possible) to share in the same way as now. I have a few photos of other repairs, but not that particular one.
I have a question Matt that I don't seem to be able to find an answer to. I'm having a lot of "bounce" in my right hand D key when releasing the key to move up the stack. I feel it hitting my ring finger often. This is a Selmer Mark VI I'm dealing with. I've tried with my repairman with felts and corks to nullify this. Any idea of a solution?
You can help this condition with judicious use of adjustment materials and with the *angle* of force of the spring. If you have giant heavy oversized custom solid (insert magical metal here) resonators that are adding a lot of mass to the key, that can be an unsolvable problem. But otherwise, you can eliminate it with the two things I mention above.
I'll probably do a video on the spring thing eventually. But what you need to think of is that as the key moves, it describes an arc through space. The spring pushes against the spring cradle in one direction. If you look at the spring cradle and the spring and make it so that the spring is pushing a little bit down in addition to out/up when the D is fully open (no finger pressure) that can reduce the amount of force the spring is exerting on the key at that angle and reduce bounce.
***** thanks so much for responding Matt. Nah not a heavy resonator. I used the standard sized flat brass Resotechs. I look forward to your video on this. I'm going to link your comment to my repairman. This has definitely been a pain lol
Good video Matt, oh and I had a question, I bought a vintage tenor sax to fix up on my own. It's made in Itally it's serial number is 9XXX. It says Rene Duval on the bell from what I researched it was a stencil made by Orsi. But I can't find anything about the horn online and well the local instrument didn't know. Would you know anything about it? It's my first tenor I'm going to play, been playing alto, well once I fix it up.
Thanks for the video Matt, do you know if the size the micro tuner for the C melody is the same as the Alto?
I 'thumbed-up' your video Matt, but I do have a criticism: By using the dent balls, you've just modified (arguably) the most critical part of the neck, if not the whole tube.
That interior cone, in my humble opinion, should stay the same.
Plating? Yes.
If not, I'd hard solder an insert into the tuning slide receiver (copper pipe, for example), bore and then ream and lap to fit.
Good vid though (as usual).
+David Smart That is a valid point, thank you for pointing that out. I edited the description to say:
**NOTE** In the video, I talk about how I fixed the leak on the tuner joint on this horn using dent balls, which I think is a good fix for a joint that is damaged and out of round like this one was (indeed you don't have a lot of choice, and doing it inside the sleeve should put the taper back to as close as original as possible) but If the tube seems undamaged and straight and the leak is from plain old wear or just a poor fit from the factory, brass plating to build up the outer tube or the inner surface of the sleeve receiver is probably the way to go to eliminate the possibility of changing and otherwise perfect bore.
*****
Oh, no doubt it's a difficult repair and I think you've done well: the inner taper is just something I would have avoided at all costs.
I've never actually done the repair as I suggested (I silver plated the interior of the reciver ~ my boss had a kitten), and now, in hindsight, I think it would be extremely difficult to hold the receiver in the lathe to machine it at all without removing those guides...no thanks. Forget that suggestion.
All my repairs are from a time when it wasn't fashionable (or possible) to share in the same way as now. I have a few photos of other repairs, but not that particular one.