I like the idea of the microtuner, but I think the reality is they're not worth the trouble over time. But I love your diagnosis and recommendation. Keep the videos coming, you're really great.
Thank you! And yeah, its hard to argue for something that mechanically complex vs. just a tube over a timespan of like 100 years! But in my opinion, they *can* be made right just like any other mechanical aspect of the saxophone. If you are or have access to someone who is a decent repairer, I wouldn't let it scare you off of the truly great saxophones that have them like the New Wonder Series II and the 6M. In fact, because they are so often under-repaired (including the double socket neck leaks on most 6Ms) the horns have a less stellar reputation than they deserve, and therefore still represent a great value pricewise in vintage horns when repaired well, IMHO.
My best Dunning Kruger speculation: Cut a shim from plastic bottle the same dimension as the retaining ring, and lube up the retained collar with mouthpiece cork grease or lanolin (grease removed from recently sheared wool) to reduce wobble and air leakage when loose if retaining ring hole is lined up with set screw. Bicycle speak for tool used for retaining rings is Pin Spanner. I will probably grind the pins on a adjustable pin spanner to use on a Conn microtuner if it is too stuck for shop made dinner fork pin spanner. My take-away: Every Microtuner saxophone instrument case should have a screwdriver for the setscrew and a (bicycle toolspeak) PIN SPANNER to fit the pin slots on the microtuner's RETAINING RING. Yearly or quarterly cleaning and lubing using lanolin or mouthpiece cork grease of the microtuner collar to minimize air leakage. Efficient use speculation. Check and note limits of microtuner and set it in the middle mark the middle location. Tune the saxophone by installation depth of mouthpiece and remember or mark mouthpiece location. Routinely install mouthpiece to marked or recalled depth, and tune using microtuner. If you're over 40 have a headband magnifier for control of the flea size screw and other tiny things that are close
Hello, I understand that the rolled tonehole and straight tonehole 10m are essentially the same aside from the tone hole. Then came those with "naked lady" engraving but with microtuner (before 1960) - are these still as good as the earlier ones?
It is widely agreed that the later ones are not as good as the earlier ones, although they can sometimes represent a good bargain if they are in good shape and overhauled well.
@@StohrerMusic I see, the ones without microtuners are better I'll look for them. Rolled tone holes one are too expensive and difficult to find in good condition. Are these later (but pre 1960) ones as picky on mouthpiece? What sort of mouthpiece can be a good match for the 10m?
I have a Conn 6M transitional alto from around 1933, and I’ve noticed that my high notes (G and up) get progressively harder to play. They require much more air and sound thin. Is this an air tightness problem?
Difficult question, but how well can one of these seal ideally, and how much of a leak is tolerable in your opinion? I have one that has almost no play in the mechanism at all, but reads at 0.4 on a magnahelic machine (arbitrary I know, as settings vary). Cause for concern you think?
In my opinion, they shouldn't leak at all. A temporary (how temporary varies - could last for years) fix is to use some rather thick grease in the sliding portion.
@@StohrerMusic awesome, thank you so much. I thought I was home free seeing as it was mechanically sound, but oh well. I’ll pull it back apart and see if I can improve it at all - probably will try some grease first as it is easy to try
I like the idea of the microtuner, but I think the reality is they're not worth the trouble over time.
But I love your diagnosis and recommendation. Keep the videos coming, you're really great.
Thank you! And yeah, its hard to argue for something that mechanically complex vs. just a tube over a timespan of like 100 years! But in my opinion, they *can* be made right just like any other mechanical aspect of the saxophone. If you are or have access to someone who is a decent repairer, I wouldn't let it scare you off of the truly great saxophones that have them like the New Wonder Series II and the 6M. In fact, because they are so often under-repaired (including the double socket neck leaks on most 6Ms) the horns have a less stellar reputation than they deserve, and therefore still represent a great value pricewise in vintage horns when repaired well, IMHO.
Quick and informative. Thanks for the video Matt!
My best Dunning Kruger speculation:
Cut a shim from plastic bottle the same dimension as the retaining ring, and lube up the retained collar with mouthpiece cork grease or lanolin (grease removed from recently sheared wool) to reduce wobble and air leakage when loose if retaining ring hole is lined up with set screw. Bicycle speak for tool used for retaining rings is Pin Spanner. I will probably grind the pins on a adjustable pin spanner to use on a Conn microtuner if it is too stuck for shop made dinner fork pin spanner.
My take-away: Every Microtuner saxophone instrument case should have a screwdriver for the setscrew and a (bicycle toolspeak) PIN SPANNER to fit the pin slots on the microtuner's RETAINING RING. Yearly or quarterly cleaning and lubing using lanolin or mouthpiece cork grease of the microtuner collar to minimize air leakage. Efficient use speculation. Check and note limits of microtuner and set it in the middle mark the middle location. Tune the saxophone by installation depth of mouthpiece and remember or mark mouthpiece location. Routinely install mouthpiece to marked or recalled depth, and tune using microtuner. If you're over 40 have a headband magnifier for control of the flea size screw and other tiny things that are close
Hello, I understand that the rolled tonehole and straight tonehole 10m are essentially the same aside from the tone hole.
Then came those with "naked lady" engraving but with microtuner (before 1960) - are these still as good as the earlier ones?
It is widely agreed that the later ones are not as good as the earlier ones, although they can sometimes represent a good bargain if they are in good shape and overhauled well.
@@StohrerMusic I see, the ones without microtuners are better I'll look for them.
Rolled tone holes one are too expensive and difficult to find in good condition.
Are these later (but pre 1960) ones as picky on mouthpiece?
What sort of mouthpiece can be a good match for the 10m?
I have a Conn 6M transitional alto from around 1933, and I’ve noticed that my high notes (G and up) get progressively harder to play. They require much more air and sound thin. Is this an air tightness problem?
Difficult question, but how well can one of these seal ideally, and how much of a leak is tolerable in your opinion? I have one that has almost no play in the mechanism at all, but reads at 0.4 on a magnahelic machine (arbitrary I know, as settings vary). Cause for concern you think?
In my opinion, they shouldn't leak at all. A temporary (how temporary varies - could last for years) fix is to use some rather thick grease in the sliding portion.
@@StohrerMusic awesome, thank you so much. I thought I was home free seeing as it was mechanically sound, but oh well. I’ll pull it back apart and see if I can improve it at all - probably will try some grease first as it is easy to try
Hey Matt. Who was the guy we can get that microtuner removal tool. I had his name and info and can’t find it now.
Send me an email and I can give you his contact info.