Custom 3D Printed Mold for Plaster to Slip Cast a Bowl!

Поделиться
HTML-код
  • Опубликовано: 24 ноя 2024

Комментарии • 39

  • @bottlepro3252
    @bottlepro3252 5 месяцев назад +1

    This is awesome and should make it so much easier to prototype clay items with more exact details. Thanks for the video. Can't wait to try this on our mugs.

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад

      Yes you can really dial in your form this way!

  • @LouisMcE
    @LouisMcE 2 месяца назад

    Got added to the beta yesterday and almost done with my first assembly. Some things that could be cool features:
    1) Printable gaskets for people that can print with TPU
    2) less useful, but a printable removal plate instead of having to cut cardboard
    Thanks! This is a really cool project

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  2 месяца назад

      Thanks and great!. TPU has been suggested but a lot of Shape Cast users can't print TPU so it hasn't been a high priority. I do want to revisit the flanges though. In line with the second, some people have also asked for an insert to go into the soft clay so it doesn't deform. Forms the right size for plaster mixing and displacement dip glazing also seem like possible accessories. But next up is more handles!

  • @tomashallengren
    @tomashallengren 2 месяца назад

    Try printing the bowl upside down. If the inside does not matter. Have your supports fill up the inside.

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  2 месяца назад

      That is the orientation it is printed in (in some of my videos you can see I don't even remove the supports). When you use Shape Cast, the parts are in that orientation already.

  • @anonim1133
    @anonim1133 5 месяцев назад

    You should check adaptive layer height - this will help to save you time in places that dont need that low layer height.

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад

      Thanks. I have and for the inner mold it doesn't make much different. The outer mold can be printed on draft settings.

  • @mrfochs
    @mrfochs 5 месяцев назад +1

    With using the Bambu Printer, you can use the setting for "Scarf Joint Seam" to help reduce the appearance (and feel) of the layer start/stop point.

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад

      Thanks! Yes I recently saw they added that feature - I'm going to play around with it

    • @Seaofjitsu
      @Seaofjitsu 5 месяцев назад +1

      All printers can use scarf seam! The function was actually not developed by bambu. Bambu just imported it into thier slicer. The team at Orca Slicer which is an open-source resource is responsible for that nifty trick and they work for free.. There always is a tech idea hanshake going on. I highly recommend Orca Slicer it's taken my prints past bambu specs. Bambu is like the ultimate hobby printer but if your doing something more than bambu got to go Orca/klipper and individualy love the practice like you and your pot channel leading the way as everyone follows. Thanks so much for the wonderful channel. If you ever need a tip in the 3d world I'll put an email link on my channel. Thanks for helping the community 🙏 I will be watching many more of your vids 😀

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад +1

      @Seaofjitsu Yes indeed it is a slicer feature! And the open source nature of the slicers means everyone is copying features which is as intended. The nice thing about the Bambu printers (and the ones that followed) is they've finally turned 3d printing into an appliance so you don't need to be an expert to use them. (And can focus on the pots!)

    • @Seaofjitsu
      @Seaofjitsu 5 месяцев назад

      @@PotterybyKent Agreed on that one . 100% Bambu has really helped many people enjoy 3d printing.
      With so many 3d printers having low chinese quality control for many years it has frustrated many people.
      If learning robotics is your thing the other cheaper machines are great. I really have learned a lot because of it.
      Ironically I hopefully just helped a Bambu X1C owner that had multiple feed issues on a new type of filament that I can run but only special settings. (Small production stuff) Make sure to stay in the Bambu ecosystem. Its a happy place for many but never stray lol
      I am going to use PETG for my molds when I get around to it. I think it would be better than PLA for this mold task. Sanding PETG is easier. Sanding and not using a smoother such as spray or thinned wood filler etc would speed up production time.
      Elegoo rapid PLA + white for some reason is a little magical due to the plasticizers. That would be a great middle of the road option.
      pla
      elegoo white pla +
      petg
      Also printing an o ring style gasket from TPU and designing a groove for it to fit would be trick
      So many screws also...... I will have to think about how to stream line that. very labor intense. I Love your vids super positive. Thanks 🙏

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад +1

      @@Seaofjitsu I usually use my prints straight off the printer but people always ask, so I primed them here. And most people dont have multi-filament printers hence no TPU. As far as attaching the molds with inserts and bolts, it is a bit tedious but actually rather fast - especially compared to most other parts of the pottery process. Or dealing with plaster disasters! However, I am also thinking about ways it could be better.

  • @malcolm7436
    @malcolm7436 5 месяцев назад

    This is actually amazing. I have no 3D printing facilities so am not able to do this sort of thing myself. An obvious extension would be if you could draw any profile (even with undercuts) and it could do a two-piece mould.

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад

      There are places where you can have 3D prints done for you, so don't let that hold you back! Yes, I've done some experiments with 2 part molds - I have a sphere form on my channel I made but that isn't fully supported in the software just yet.

  • @321ReadysSetG0
    @321ReadysSetG0 5 месяцев назад

    I'm not a mold process potter but have been curious about it as a few project would be easier if I had a mold. I recently took a semester class - digital fabrication - where we used adobe illustrator ( huge learning curve for me and by no means did I successfully learn anything more than just what I need to 😏). Anyway - I was successful at accomplishing the assignments using a laser cutter and 3D printer. It opened me to thinking about all kinds of things I could make for myself to use in the pottery studio. I came away from watching this with excitement and going to look at Inkscape as well as shape cast -- they look more user friendly than the overwhelming adobe illustrator. Thank you for sharing your process and info -😃

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад

      Glad it was useful! Illustrator and Inkscape are similar. Actually Illustrator might actually be a bit easier but it depends on what you need to do. For some simple lines which Shape Cast needs, Inkscape is more than good enough. And yes, digital fabrication does open so many options!

  • @JudsonSwets
    @JudsonSwets 5 месяцев назад

    Thank you! I will do this with a class!

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад

      That's great to hear! Let me know how it goes.

  • @jeromedormoy3932
    @jeromedormoy3932 4 месяца назад

    Great stuff! Why not print the mold directly and cast the slip directly onto the 3d printed mold?

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  4 месяца назад

      Thanks! Because the slip isn't absorbed into the 3d print. Pottery plaster does that and in turn forms the pot.

  • @BeleagueredWriter
    @BeleagueredWriter Месяц назад

    Is there a way to add a design to the outside of a bowl? Add details or a pattern? I know...I ask for the impossible (btw: I really, really appreciate your excellent videos!)

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  Месяц назад

      Thanks! In shape cast directly, no not yet. However this is pretty easy to do with the leather hard clay. Either carving or applying more slip. It's been awhile since I've done this but I do have older videos showing some of those techniques.

  • @PODBlueprint
    @PODBlueprint 5 месяцев назад

    Wow!! This is amazing ❤❤❤

  • @ScenterSquare
    @ScenterSquare 5 месяцев назад

    Brilliant. Thank you for sharing the entire process. I had no idea where to begin.
    Would your programs and printer be useful to make profile ribs for throwing? I’m looking to make a few jigger/jolly forms for repeatable small forms.

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад

      Happy to share! I have thought a bit about custom ribs, but haven't done anything yet. The general approach I'm taking should extend that way. If you want, send me an email and we can chat more.

  • @Heartwing37
    @Heartwing37 5 месяцев назад

    This is really an exciting way to make new molds. I don’t know if I missed it or not but can you give some details/specs on the printer you use? Thank you for your videos!

    • @PotterybyKent
      @PotterybyKent  5 месяцев назад

      I'm using a Bambu P1P. It's fast and just works however I think that is true of most modern printers. I started off using my ancient Ender 3 (it just took more babysitting). So pretty much any printer should work!

  • @نورالدينعبدالرحمن-خ5ب
    @نورالدينعبدالرحمن-خ5ب 5 месяцев назад

    Very good.

  • @kenardysuyadi4314
    @kenardysuyadi4314 5 месяцев назад

    ahhh i need this thinggg

  • @ne_salon
    @ne_salon 5 месяцев назад

    hello. tell me, is it possible to make tiles for walls and floors in this way?