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Now I'm running my slip through 60 mesh

I print it "upside down" with respect to the pot as I mention. So yes, the inner mold uses supports (you can see them not fully removed). This way any supports don't touch the surface which transfer into the plaster (and in tuen the pot). I use the tree/organic supports on a stock Bambu P1P with default settings and profiles. Shape Cast automatically creates the thickness of the molds - if I remember correctly it is 2.4mm.

Yes, it wasn't possible until now. And having step files does open the door for people to modify the 3d models themselves.

@@PotterybyKent my biggest hope is to add in some small text on the outside wall so I can cast the product name onto the mold for easier organization of molds. Thanks again for all the work and great videos!

Yes, that would be possible now! If you want to try it out before it is integrated, feel free to reach out.

Yes, the water/isopropyl alcohol makes things sooo much easier! That actually arrived from some discussions here on RUclips as I was building Shape Cast. As far as ChatGPT - I have a PhD in computer science and a career in research so I've been using it for years already!

@@PotterybyKent I saw you had your PhD, I'm also in research. Looking forward to giving this a test run in a few months. Muti-piece molds will really be great, looking forward to it.

Great that you're in research as well! I'm also looking forward to multi-part molds!

Thanks!

I'd love to see your approach work. However in doing this a fair bit now I don't see you being able to get the plaster out of the print for any one piece mold, which is what Shape Cast does. So the pieces are for 2 reasons. One is demolding the plaster, as mentioned. The other is to overcome print bed limitations. Between clay shrinkage and the space needed for plaster, things scale up quickly.

@@PotterybyKent Thank you for the answer! I can understand that mold release could be an issue. If shrinking the inner mold with cold helps it release maybe heating the outer could help? If your print bed is square (as most are) you would get a very marginal size increase by splitting a circle in two. Using your technique to split it in four would however double the size which could be useful. It is just my opinion that it would be more beneficial to gain diameter by trying to decrease the rim size and make the inner and bottom molds into one piece for ease of use. Great project either way, looking forward to see future iterations!

This was done on a regular glaze firing cycle (cone 6). I don't think it would work well on a vase as there is no place for the broken glass to sit or for it to pool while molten.

Thanks. It is plastic, but that would make sense.

Nope. Regular PLA. For the underglaze stamp pad, TPU is likely a good idea. When stamping into leather hard clay, PLA or the like works well.

Already did! It's the first link in the description.

@@PotterybyKent Thanks again now I see it .. helps to click on the more link.

RUclips does hide it!

That does seem like a good use of TPU

Good catch!

The print speed was already pretty slow for this printer. As far as changes - yes make whatever changes you want for your own design!

You're welcome!

Glad you enjoyed it

I don't see why you'd do fiberglass. If you need to go into production making plaster molds, you'd likely fabricate them out of metal. For smaller scale production potters, the 3d prints should last plenty long.

@ its actually quite common to use fiberglass as material for mold making. my concern with 3d printed mold is that it will take some time to print and the amount of the filament needed, will it still be worthed despite the cost. thanks for sharing!

I'd love to see examples of fiberglass molds for making plaster slip casting molds. As far as cost, I'm sure resin is way more expensive than PLA and doing a fiberglass layup is not fast from what I've seen.

Thanks! I do have handles up on Shape Cast - they are attached after being slip cast separately (and I have videos on that process). Designing the handle into the mug mold itself has some drawbacks so I havent gone that way yet.

It is fun!

I suspect most of those are actually too high of a frequency. I've done several videos on bubbles, and even have a shaker table (however most beginners do not!) I've found the biggest impact of bubble is actually from technique around mixing.

Glad to hear it worked! I hoping the new version that uses binder clips will be ready soon!

I did not! It was a mistake I caught some time later.

You are so welcome

Thanks! The crimson is @oldforgecreations First 5 recipe with the amounts of mason stain and zirconium added. I havent found a good online source recipe for the hare's fur yet.

Thanks! Those glazes are nice because you don't need a bunch of random things for each new recipe! You just need to add the colorants.

@PotterybyKent That sounds like the beautiful part of it! Thanks again!

You're welcome!

Unfortunately it doesn't work that way! If we could 3d print a plaster like substance with all of the right properties, then maybe!

Can you explain the difference in this context?

Thanks a lot!

Thanks! Yes, I could imagine sanding would show more. I guess in a similar vein, you might be able to reveal more using a sponge on greenware.

Thanks! The handle models are for sale on the web page (under handles). I use USG No. 1 Pottery Plaster. It should be available from your pottery supply store. Likewise ask them which casting slip is available (Laguna makes one for example). I use one from my local pottery shop.

@@PotterybyKent Great. Thank you!

You're welcome!

That is great to hear!

They work well, but take some effort. (Practice helps like with most things). However I'm still working on the software so hopefully I'll be able to roll out this version. It is quicker for sure!

Go for it!

I don't know the first two specifically, but having use mold soap I don't think it does too much with plaster. Or if it does, there are other factors much more important like for draft angle on the form, the slight growth of plaster, etc. I think this is why the ice and alcohol method works so well is that it is actually shrinking the part to get it to release.

Thanks for watching!

That's interesting, I've not seen that!

Interesting idea! I've had enough plaster disasters that I'm being rather risk adverse on that front - making sure things really don't leak. However I do suspect there are other approaches. Let me know how it works out!

@@PotterybyKent i already did a cast and it worked with no leakage at all. So yeah, when the prints look good, it works fine. but i did it with a single outer-shell (like a tube with a flange to the inside) and i had to cut it open since i didn't use mold release. next try i'm gonna make 2 outer shells with flanges, already printed. about the prints - i run as well a bambulab without distortions, even on high prints. Maybe it is the room it's sitting in why on the top is bending in your case (cold air movement?)

Cool, good to know. I'm not sure mold release does too much for plaster in 3d prints. My Bambu is in the bottom of a closet with the door open, so it's not an issue with ambient air. Usually it is just fine so I think it is something about this particular model.

It does not. You need to special characteristics of plaster, and even then pottery plaster.

Glad you enjoy them!

There are competing requirements in making the 3d model for printing, plaster and the slip as I discuss in the video. Ideally yes, but in practice there are tradeoffs.

Thanks. I understand what they are

This only works if you know a priori where the problems are. In this case the geometry was the same, so you would not have known.

The software automatically generates 3d models from a 2d pot profile with no CAD knowledge. It lets slip casters make new plaster molds without learning CAD. Modeling one mold could be done with any CAD software. Automating the process is much more complicated since I don't know the starting profile.

That would require knowing where it warps ahead of time. As I said, the other one I printed at the exact same time had no issues (and the rest of the one I showed was fine as well). Having said that, I think the test that prevents the grooves from being considered "outside" for the brims might be helpful.

@@PotterybyKent Generally on corners after long straights is more likely to warp. That is where the shrinkage in the layes is the most. Bed adhesion is very surface clenliness dependant as well. So some contamination or residue from the last print can help or hurt that. Not sure how to implement brim. Maybe some weird sections that print subpixel colloums that break up the step file, but generate a cleaner brim. Sounds like a lot of effort.

The geometry is the same, so that is unlikely to be the root cause. I'm pretty sure it's unevenness in print bed temperature. As far as the brim, in theory it just needs a very thin wall at the end of the groove - in practice it'll take some work as it will likely be slicer dependent.

I've started using FreeCAD which uses OpenCascade under the hood. So I'm doing just that now and working with solid geometry and the failures I'm encountering and need to work around come from it.

Glad it was helpful!

I have several videos showing it. Take the clay powder, add darvan 7, the right amount of water and mix.

I use powdered clay meant from slip casting from my local pottery supplier. Check yours (and for beginners I suggest buying liquid casting slip).

Nope, no issues so far. The plaster isn't warm for that long, and by the time the exothermic reaction is fully going, the plaster is also solid (so there's not really any force against the print).

No idea about that mold. Often foam is used to help hold irregular shaped pottery pieces when working on them. It might also need to stiffen up more in the mold.

@@PotterybyKent THANK YOU!!..u replied today, Im so excited.. HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!

Sure thing

I already have a few different sizes, but wanted to do this test to make sure everything went like it should! I'm not sure when I'll get it on to the web page, but feel free to email me to get it sooner.