Case Head Separation...A REAL Danger
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- Опубликовано: 16 янв 2024
- VIEW MY PLAYLISTS BELOW!! Hi Everyone! Thought I'd get a bit in the weeds here and talk about Case Head Separation, which can adversely affect your match! Enjoy!
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When I first started out, did the die setup by the instructions. I knew about the paper clip trick and used it, discovered separation grooves after 3rd load,.Then I learned about how to properly setup a die, not sure if the Stoney Point tool was even avail then, 45 yrs ago. Used a cutdown case to fit the shoulder datum as a measuring tool, no more issues with that ring, unless I acquired a really short batch of brass to start with, and it could happen again with hotter loads in that brass, probably just because of that initial stretch. Neck sizing works too, but, not for comps, or hunting, and still has to be FLS'd every few rds anyway. The only way to avoid it in the long run, is by not ever sizing the cases, in which you can get a couple of hundred shots out of them, before the body hardens up, only way to do that, is with breech seating the bullet, can't do that with jacketed bullets..
Great info, and always a bad deal. Crazy 1300 views and only 93 likes..come on people.
Great video! I couldn't agree more with everything you have shown. I load 50 rounds at at time and on each box lable I write how many times this box has been fired. I also do a load sheet on each box that shows everything I have done to this box of ammo. I keep this information in a 3 ring folder along with some of tha targets I have shot for that box of ammo. I have a 3 rihg binder for each rifle I own. The first page of the binder shows rifle info for each bullet I shoot, distance to lands and date, scope height, number of rounds through the barrel and much more. THANKS again for the great videos!
Thanks William! Sounds like you're more detailed than I am, but it's the only way to be when dealing with this type of hobby. Thanks for watching my friend!
The real danger is a CHS in a semi auto... more specifically a battle rifle with a floating firing pin is very aggressive on the brass and generally only get two reloads even with LC NATO. Inspect each piece carefully for a shiny ring just above the head and run a pick inside the case feeling for a notch or the pick hanging inside. Any indication, immediately retire the brass and/or the lot if any indication is observed. Also, retire brass after two(2) RL's as a matter of policy. Never, ever take any RL's to a match or live field work. Your face, your hands, your bystanders and your rifle will greatly appreciate.
Hi Paul! Great advice! I was focused on a bolt gun here, but am planning on shooting Gas Gun division a bit this year and will certainly take your advice into consideration. So far, my Alpha brass in my 6.5 CM gas gun has stood up pretty well, but at any sign of neck, mouth, or head damage, I throw that case out. Thanks for watching my friend!
@@The4GunGuy True that, didn't mean to hijack the thread, only to emphasize that there is a real danger in the craft, especially for those long time reloaders that finally embark on High Power MBR game. I am the opposite and only began precision work recently. You gained a sub!
@@paullink9319 No hikacking done here, just great input! Thanks for the sub!
This happened to me with a 1911. The case had been reloaded three times. I then dumped all cases of that make, and never bought them again.
Hi George! Yeah, as Paul mentioned below, CHS is particularly bad in semi-automatic weapons because now you have a real mess on your hands and a potentially dangerous situation! Glad you didn't get hurt and good call on dumping the cases and moving on...It's just not worth the gamble. Thanks for watching my friend!
Have also seen necks separate from guys that neck turn and get down into the shoulder too far. Way harder to feel than a head separation, and ive seen more than a few necks get shot through the barrel before the guys noticed necks missing off fired brass.
Hi Longrnge! An even scarier scenario when you have that obstruction DOWN the barrel and fail to notice the missing neck! Thanks for the comment and input, and for watching my friend!
Interesting video sir - I also had a batch of brand new Hornady 25-06 brass where 30% was separating on the first firing - no other pressure signs and the load was well below max - I just binned all 200 rounds and bought Norma brass instead and have not had a problem since!
Hi Mad! Was that a custom barrel or production? Just curious. On the brass topic, I've found that Hornady brass is good for maybe three firings for my 6.5 Creedmoor, but I won't go beyond that. My Alpha brass has given me 15+ firings and still going strong. Glad you got it sorted out and thanks for watching my friend!
@@The4GunGuy It was a Production rifle (hunting rifle) - yeah I won't be buying Hornady brass again, normally use Lapua or Norma for hunting and for my 408, 308 and 6.5/47 I use Peterson exclusively - I find I can reload Lapua or Norma at least 8 times, my peterson is still quite new but I'm annealing between each firing All the best Clive
Awesome information.!!
What would cause vertical racks in the neck?
Hi William! Sounds like you have brass that has galled to the sizing die, usually due to lack of enough lubrication on the case. Depending on the lube you use (I use the Alcohol/Lanolin mixture and have had no issues with galling) you may need to use a bit more to ensure a good, slick run through the die. You'll also need to clean the die itself to get rid of the brass that has attached itself to the wall of the die. I've heard of many solutions here, from 0000 steel wool, to Flitz, to sand paper. I would recommend you research this further and decide what you'd prefer to use to get rid of the brass buildup in the die. Hope this helps and thanks for watching my friend!
I get loose primer pocket before I get chs. I don't keep track of firing I check primer pockets with a gauge
Great video. I switched gunsmiths when my chamber sizing wasn’t consistent to each barrel and to a go gauge. Now I use SAC and their dies. Sized down -003 is right to the go gauge. I also write everything down and only use Lapua and Alpha brass. I wish someone had explained to me how long it takes for brass to fully formed to the chamber before I started reloading. Wasted so much brass and time not knowing my chamber dimensions and bumping back the shoulder incorrectly in the beginning. Luckily it was all on not premium brass but boy what a PIA that was not understanding why I couldn’t size consistently. The barrel I learned from MPA (Mathew’s) did not help either - way oversized.
Hi SF! Yeah, I may just do a video on fire forming because, as you mentioned, it's not just shoot once and it's formed...And then if you do what I did (sounds like you might have done this too), and bump the shoulder back after the first firing, you may be actually increasing the head space and that can lead to the topic of this video. Thanks for watching another one my friend!
That is exactly what I did. Had no idea what I was doing. A video like that would be great for newbies!
I had my head separation from pushing shoulder to much back , for some reason everything was set to 2k shoulder bump and some of the brass was pushed 13k back !! With same settings , ,i notice something for off when i stsrted getting light primer strikes , thsn when round go off after chanbering again i got head case separated, I think over annealing is the problem with my case , shoulders were soft.
Hi Vik! Over annealing could be the cause for sure. If you're using a flame annealer, try some Tempilaq to check your annealing temp...It's not perfect, but it helps. Thanks for watching my friend!
The Ring of Death. Not good.😎
Indeed! Thanks for watching my friend!