Revolver Barrel Removal
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- Опубликовано: 12 июл 2014
- In this video I remove my Colt 1917 D.A. revolver smooth barrel, by using home made tools.
The reason I decided to move forward with fixing the issue with barrel face, forcing cone, etc. is that I was turned away by a local gunsmith, and because at some point I would like to become a professional gunsmith.
This is not a tutorial, but a video describing what I did, and the tools I made. Simply showing that it can be done.
I will not be responsible for any damages or injuries as result of amateur gunsmithing. If you decide to follow this video, the responsibility is on you. 
Хобби
This guy is the BEST gunsmithing instructor on RUclips.
You are too kind. Thank you for the compliment
Don't unscrew the barrel from the frame...Unscrew the frame from the barrel. Never really thought about it that way. Great video.
Thank you very much.
Every time I view one of your videos I get more impressed with your problem solving skills. You are a great teacher. Keep making your videos. Thank you!
Thank you very much. I will do my best. Have been very busy ar work lately so I dont have time to make more videos this year. As soon as I get more time I will start making them once again.
Wow. Best u tube how to video i have found yet. Well thought out process and easy to follow. You just saved me a ton of head scratching on my Colt repair project. Thanks.
My pleasure. Good luck with your project.
Great job. Your mind works incredibly well. You are a problem solver... an engineer. Well done dude!
Thank you very much.
Great job! It was very creative of you to come up with the barrel wrench you designed. Now if I ever have to do that job I'm sure I won't bend the frame. Thanks.
Thank you very much. I am glad you liked the idea. It was very doable.
Congratulations 👏 little victories like this are a big deal to us self taught gunsmiths.
Indeed. This was a very good feeling.
I’m pleased to see your plan was a success and neither part sustained damage to their beautiful new finish. Awesome !
Thank you. At first I was thinking I was just going to stop with the refinish, so yes, should have done this first. But as you noticed I lucked out - no finish damage.
You've taken snub-nose to the next level.
With really "fine and high twist" rifling.
Awesome that you used your problem-solving skills to do a job that your local gunsmith didn't want to try. I'd also like to become a professional gunsmith someday...seems like a dying trade, at least in my neck of the woods. From what I've seen in your other videos, I'm convinced you'd be an awesome gunsmith - good combination of 'outside of the box' thinking, precision, and attention to detail. Thanks for sharing your video!
+AKJeeper Thank you very much. I do hope to get actual education when possible, but for now, I will tinker as much as I can to learn what I can.
If I was born about 30 years earlier I'd go to gunsmithing school, but it's not fun to sit and constantly see your profession destroyed piece by piece by politicians. I work in the coal industry and that's bad enough...worrying that one more law or regulation will be enough to close us down.
@@Toolness1, Liability insurance is expensive and very few firms will issue policies for those in the firearms industry. You're spot on regarding the politicians backdoor infringing upon the 2nd A. and the rights of American citizens.
It fun to gunsmith but unless you have some bucks and a reputation, you will stare. Polymer gun and the para-military guns are mostly parts changers, and dominate the market. But to do it as a hobby, go for it. Just be prepared that you will ruin guns as you learn. Have fun I do. Oh and I don't worry about ruining a gun. Done it lots of time, I've gotten rather good at it.
Very cool. Love in ingenuity!
Thank you.
Sir, you should become a gunsmith! Nice job. I wish I had your talent, I love working on this stuff.
Thank you very much.
Good show, video, and you among a few people said that after fitting the barrel, you "cut a new forcing cone". Great job, I believe all revolvers need a forcing cone cut, especially a .22 rimfire. Great vid, subscribed, more!?!
08221944 thank you. there is a video of me cutting the face and forcing cone as well. if you can't see it in the list of next suggestions, go into my channel and take a look at my playlists. then under Colt 1917.
This video saved me a lot of money, replaced the barrel on a .22 magnum thanks to you, kind regards, subbed.
Thank you. I am glad I could help and hopefully you will not be disappointed with the other videos on my channel.
Grate work my man!
Thanks for the idea! I'm as surprised as you are with that barrel unscrewing.
Jordan/Shyadow my pleasure. Glad it all worked out.
Great job sir! Want to see the repairs now. 👏👏👏
Thank you very much. The repair videos are all in my Colt 1917 playlist. Check them out. It turned out really decent.
Good stuff, thanks!
Needed this!
My pleasure
There is 2 kinds of people, them who can and them who wished they could, count your self as a can who don't except can't as an answer. Bravo
Marvin Jones thank you. I certainly don't let things stop me too much.
Congratulations !!! Nice Job !!!
Thank you
Great job! Thank you so much for sharing. I have found that revolvers need to be tuned. I have owned more than one that needed barrel tweeking for them to shoot straight.
Thank you. I have a few as well, and for the most part I have been lucky.
ha! the joy of having your shop in the family room.
Thankfully not for long.
Excellent work.. thank you
Thank you. I was just happy that it worked out. Every local smith I talked to at the time said they wouldn't work on it.
That was a great idea for a frame/barrel wrench.
Thank you. It worked pretty well.
Excellent work!
Thank you very much.
excellent tip useing epoxy and wax !!
Parabéns!!! Trabalho inteligente. Abraços.
Muito obrigado.
A lot of times, if you tighten first, just a little, you will hear it break loose...then it will come off easily. Old Refrigeration Tech, trick.
Great learning videos!
Thank you MosinVirus!
I am doing a complete restore, for a friend on the same model....but in 32-20 WCF
A'Ho
Christ Bless!
Thank you. I tried tightening but it wouldn't budge.
You are the best bro just I’m looking same like your video thanks a lot 🙏
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you very much.
If you look at a product made by 3M for autobody repair called panel bond. You can grease your barrel and frame, then use tape to make molds and pump the panel bond into the molds one side at a time and let them cure. THEN, you have perfectly formed barrel and frame blocks. Wood is a lousy medium for barrel and frame blocks.....
I've used this method many times and it works perfectly..... I also use a vise, BUT, I clamp the frame with the barrel facing upright and clamp my "action wrench" to the barrel. (for a straight barrel I generally use aluminum barrel blocks machined to the correct diameter, then I cut it in half)
shovelwrench thank you for a great advice. I will certainly take a look.
Nicely done. O. R.
Thank you.
Thanks for the Video and Wow what a simple solution .... If I had to it I could have damaged the barrel using the usual sentry tools :)
B Bobby Thank you.
The best revolver ever made.
I will try to make frames for a couple of S&W revolvers in the future.
nice work !
Park Chris thank you.
WELL DONE!!!!
556 man thank you very much
Good job
Thank you
Very good removal and no damage to the frame. Very technical. Keep the good work.
Thank you very much
Hey.
I know this is a 4 year old video but I just ran across it.
Brownells makes a tool to fix that in the frame.
Its a long rod with a carbide cutter that rotates and cuts the fce of the forcing cone to make it flat again.
No need to go through all the effort of removing and reinstalling the barrel.
Actually, that would produce an excessive cylinder gap. If you watch other videos following this one in the playlist you will see how I addressed the problem.
I would recommend AGI course on Colt SA, you will understand what causes the barrel problem and understand the gas gap of cylinders. now you have your barrel out you ream the end and go to shoot it. it's going to do the same thing. Colts cylinders are extremely hard. so you can replace it , have it stretched, get a stretcher yourself add a gas ring or all of the above. your Gunsmith should have known that if he does and revolvers at all.
again, not sure why you believe it is a cylinder problem.
not sure if anyone here said it already but heating joint up, barrel and frame, with heat hun or hair dryer might help if there was a loc tight added when assembled
Thank you. Although, wouldn't firing the gun produce enough heat to nullify loctite?
Excellent.
Thank you.
You should’ve stuck a brass rod inside the barrel to prevent it from collapsing in, you can actually squeeze diameter down by a couple of thousands of an inch after it’s released from the clamping in the area that was clamped
Great suggestion. Will do that next time
Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be much money in gunsmithing by doing general repair work. I do gunsmithing as a hobby business, and it's a good thing I don't depend on the money. Most manufacturers offer lifetime warranty on their guns. The only repair work it seems is heirlooms not covered under warranty and people not wanting to deal with the warranty hassles.
For your revolver, I imagine the gunsmith was seeing the liability if he damaged the finish or frame and didn't want to take the risk. I like your frame wrench. I made one as well, heavier steel, but no accommodation for using frame inserts. Breaking the barrel loose requires the most torque and, even using a frame insert, there is a risk of bending the frame and putting the gun out of range. If the barrel is not salvageable (cracked or shot out) the best method would be to bore out the threaded portion of the barrel. This drastically reduces the amount of torque required to break it free.
Thank you. I imagine you are correct about the reason why the smith wasn't interested.
Good job.
Thank you.
great feeling winning one
It certainly does feel great.
Its too bad your local gunsmith wouldn't tackle this gun. Unfortunately, some gunsmiths try to "specialize" and leave the world of guns a less fortunate place.
Personally, I think anyone who wishes to call themselves a gunsmith should be willing to tackle any gun because they are supposedly the trained individual.
P.S - your homemade barrel wrench and vice blocks were exactly right. You could have spent a couple of hundred on gunsmith tools that work exactly that way.
Thank you. I agree, and I was surprised when I was turned away. I think the Smith's just had too many experiences where the frames cracked and that is why they didnt want to take the liability of breaking an old gun on themselves.
Nice
Very cool, you wouldn't happen to know the threads per inch on that barrel?
Sorry, never measured.
good job
I might try this with the addition of painters tape on the barrel.
one question, how do you re-tighten it to ensure it's aligned correctly?
Painters tape will slip. You have to use Rosin powder to make it grab. I used the same process to bring the barrel back into alignment. There is a flat spot on tbe bottom that helps to see if you are on the right plane, plus i looked at the verticality of the front sight when the frame was perfectly vertical.
@@MosinVirus thanks
I mentioned painters tape b/c once I had an OIL FILTER (for a truck) that was cooked on and even with a oil filter wrench was not budging until I cleaned it with brake cleaner, dried, added tape and then the filter wrench took hold and was able to remove it.
Considering I've never done anything on a revolver (except clean it) I have no idea but I want a longer barrel for accuracy.
I am proud of you
Thank you
👍
You didnt make a mark on the barrel and the housing. How you gonna get the pistol to its true point of aim?
You are absolutely right. Making a mark would have been easier. There is a flat on the bottom of the barrel that lines up with the flat in the frame. I used that.
You lined up the flats, no need for a mark.
A key to properly lining up a new barrel will be taking a micrometer, measuring from the barrel 'bulge' that would contact the frame to the flat of the forcing cone. That gives an overall insertion depth of the original setup. Would have advised using a feeler guage prior to removal as to ascertaining the cylinder/ forcing cone gap in calculating a correction for proper gap measurement so as to not have a too tight or excessive gap occur with a new barrel installed.n Please let us know how you dealt with that issue plus how the project panned out.
@@jalan8171 Hello. I did make further videos on this project. Check out the entire playlist here: ruclips.net/p/PLlh83TBEJW-Nb7HsGr2tixJudOYs6WJjO specifically the videos where I set the barrel back and recut the forcing cone and face.
I have a colt detective special that the barrel appears to have been tightened past the center line...front sight centers too far to the right.
I wonder if I can unscrew mine and reinstall...stopping at the correct spot and still torqued properly?
Washer?
@@ThePete1891 holy shit Pete, I don't recall watching this video one year ago, and certainly don't recall commenting on it. But I know that is our old account, and this is us from the future, surprised as hell to come upon your comment. Strange days indeed.
Use oak blocks with the grain perpendicular to the barrel.
Good suggestion. I just used what I had.
Because you did not make the chamfer barrel in the cone of forcing at this time that was easier? Thanks for you response.
I was just surprised that it worked. Chamfering the damaged area would have been better.
Thanks Mosin!
I have a Colt Police Positive .32 from 1919 that has a bad barrel and I need to replace it. I can't do it myself, and the one place around me that could do it, said they won't. Do you know what I could do?
Well, you could try contacting Colt. Or finding a non-local smith experienced with colts and willing to take this on.
planejet42 did you find anyone to do it for u, I am also looking for someone to do the same thing
I've not looked, but are replacement barrels even available? You might need someone that could take a barrel blank and machine it. The other issue is the finish. A replacement or newly made barrel won't match the worn finish of the pistol. Also the bluing agents of the early 20th century are not really used anymore...too toxic and bad for the environment. To match, the gun would need to be totally refinished. This would destroy collector value but would also give you a shootable piece. Depends on what you value most.
Dust the inside of the barrel mold with powdered rosin. This will give a better grip and won't mar the barrel.
That is what I did.
End tera yarr santy star sangtiwala
Nice!
Thank you.
@@MosinVirus you're welcome!
when u install it how do u make it align right with the sight and distance from the drum?
I have other videos showing that exactly. Look through my Colt 1917 playlist.
Then you put a new barrel and what about iron sights how to make them in Line?
I have all the videos for this revolver in a playlist. Check them out.
That's a weird divot. It looks like something that happened at the factory. What did you do to fix the gun? File it down and then file down the shoulder?
It was a lot more involved to fix it correctly. Welding could have been an option if I could weld, but I elected to go with material removal. You can see the video in my Colt 1917 playlist on my channel.
I’ve got a 1858 pietta Remington new model army that I would like to replace the barrel on. Last year a buddy and I were firing it and had a squib load that destroyed the rifling in the barrel. $330 to $400 for a new revolver or around $75 for the barrel. (I think you know which route I’m thinking)
Both? ;)
So how'd did you fix the divot?
I have a couple of videos on how I moved the shoulder back and then recut the face and forcing cone.
A little late, but why not a strap wrench for the barrel?
Not sure it would work on that shape
Put 2 spots of welding and rub them will be okay.
Thank you, but I decided to go another way.
Словянин. Русский. Акцент характерный. Но шпариш зачетно)
Лайк! Интересная приспособа!
Спасибо. Простенько но работает.
MosinVirus 😃👍Подписка с колокольчиком))
Благодарю! Только у меня сейчас на видео времени нет. Планов куча а времени ноль
MosinVirus
Авансом))) для своих не жалко:)
Крепкого здоровья тебе и удачи в делах!!
Could you tell me what thread the threads on the barrel are??? Thanks
Unfortunately I can't. I never measured the threads when I removed the barrel
@@MosinVirus thanks, I appreciate you responding so fast. Id love to see a video turning a ramset into a gun also!!
Colt the best
Agreed
I watched an old time gunsmith remove the barrel of a colt d/a. He put the barrel into a padded vise and took a wooden handle from a hammer and twisted it right off. He had to install a new barrel as the owner had a squib and continued putting 5 more rounds stuck in the barrel which bulged it. It was a .38 special.
yeah, I have heard of that technique, and believe that is a good way to twist the frame. I don't have enough experience to say how frequently that happens, I am sure he knows better.
if you have to face it and the cylinder gap is too large then you will need to set the shoulder back but indexing the sight is now a problem...
The cylinder gap was definitely not even on my revolver. Once I took out the barrel, it was very easy to see with just a naked eye that there was all sorts of unevenness going on with the barrel face. I was planning on setting the barrel back 1 turn, refacing the barrel, and re-cutting the forcing cone. I am still waiting for the chamfering set to be re-stocked by Brownells. I already got the barrel set back fixture master set and the .45 plug gauge. Can you provide more information on indexing the sight?
Thank you
what i meant by that is if you turn the shoulder back to adjust for what you took off from the face.. the front sight could end up canted...
indexing the sight to top dead center when you torque the barrel on is a pain in the fanny..
you may have to take more off the face than you anticipated so that the barrel will index and the cylinder gap is in spec..
you could get lucky and the cylinder gap will be ok but from the depth of that ding you may face it beyond spec and then of course you face the need of turning the shoulder and having to take off a thread to index the sight..
i get redundant sorry... good luck
carryit around Thank you for the info. What I was planning to do is the following:
1. Refinish the face to produce a uniform surface and to eliminate the damaged area.
2. Measure the gap resulted from re-facing. This will be super easy because the barrel can be hand tightened to its original position at this point.
3. Measure the setback gained from taking in the shoulder for 1 additional turn of the barrel.
4. Set the barrel shoulder back so that the barrel can be hand tightened to 1/8 turn left to proper position (I assume sight index).
5. Cut the crush ring (or whatever it is called) into the shoulder face.
5. Test fit the cylinder and produce a normal gap that allows the cylinder to close.
6. Complete the barrel turn to index the sight and finish the cylinder gap within spec
7. Recut forcing cone.
disclaimer i'm not a pistol guy,, i do rifles, but comment 5 makes no sense to me... for me a crush fit is the amount the threads crush when you tighten the barrel to the frame, you have to allow a thou or two depending on your torque amount especially if indexing... since i have a lathe i might turn the cylinder face to assure its in perfect flat, then turn the barrel face on the lathe again to assure its perpendicular to the bore then assemble the gun, measure the cylinder gap and figure how much shoulder and or barrel face i need to cut to index the front sight... if the front sight is pinned in a slot.. well good luck on your math... you will have to chase the index... if you don't have a lathe... this is mute, imho this facing cylinder and barrel, setting the shoulder back while indexing the front sight is not for a kitchen gunsmith... there are machine tips math formulas for indexing on youtube somewhere..
there is a reason that your gunsmiths don't want to do the job... its an old gun that has been kitchen renovated... the time it would take to do all this work is 'lots' AND they don't want the liability for the work you have already done...
you want to be a gunsmith,, i spent most of my life working on guns as a pastime and i did not consider myself a true gunsmith but an armorer... i stepped up to gunsmithing/riflesmithing when i took courses on machining and machine shop... bought my equipment and love it... with youtube, courses from agi, you can literaly do what you want... i have fixed up plenty of my old childhood guns even when the naysayers say why?why?why? and offer no practical help...you are already a good armorer, i suggest you take the next step
I would have taken the barrel to a laser welder. Built up the steel then file it back
Yes, that is also an option.
How did you fix the divet
Chad Chadman I show it in my barrel set back video. the shoulder had to be taken it to move the barrel back one turn of the thread. then I faced the barrel, cutting off the divet and cut a new forcing cone.
u should have left it with the front sight down and tripped the heck out of some people out at the range. ..lol jk good video man...ur a smart dude
oscar rodriguez thank you. Front sight upside down would be interesting. lol
My Grandfather designed tools for aircrafts before there were tools for aircrafts, l must say for a first time toolmaker, pretty awesome, l too made tool's to work on My Harley's, l did make My own clutch compressor, because Harley Davidson tools are expensive, it only cost Me 40$ to make it.
I completely agree. There is no need to buy some tools if they can be made.
Does the barrel have reverse threads?.... It would seem the barrel came out clockwise, or do I have that reversed?
Maybe just confusing to see the frame turning. But no, the thread is right-hand, the barrel was turning counterclockwise if looking at it from the barrel side.
@@MosinVirus Correct sir!.... What made you think of the cornstarch as a gripping compound???
@@thefleaflop I used Rosin powder. I think it is made from Pine tar resin.
@@MosinVirus thats right, sorry, its the same stuff violin players use to coat their bow.... same question. what made you think of using that? violin players use it in solid form, its amber very light and sticky....
Can you just use a strap wrench on the barrel?
Maybe, but I never tried.
Top de mais
Sorry, not sure what this means.
Can I remove the barrel from any revolver in this way? I have a smith & wesson 1937 cal .38 and it seems to me that the guide of the extractor rod is misaligned with the barrel.
Some barrels are pinned. Especially the S&W ones. Check to make sure there isn't a pin securing the barrel first. If it is there, it has to be removed, and then the barrel can be removed in a similar way.
good job...allways a worry
magillasviews Thank you.
Do a cz build
What kind of a build are we talkin'?
do you know revolver alpha proj 3541s stainless 357magnum construction czech republic opinion thanks in advance
Sorry, not familiar, but I will look it up.
@@MosinVirus ok grazie
@@MosinVirus thanks 👍
check this out.... Revolver Cylinder Gap, How To
and this Revolver Forcing Cone Tools
Very good videos. I am actually waiting for the chamfering tool set to be restocked at Brownells. My cylinder gap was excessive on one side, so I will absolutely have to set the barrel back.
having the same problem and its driving me fucking nuts. think a strap wrench will work? going to buy one tomorrow and give it a try. i dont have the patience to try your method, though it is genius
Hi. I don't know is that wrench will work. You shouldn't hurry and possibly bend or crack the frame. I know there are plenty of methods to get the job done, but some May result in catastrophic results. They way I did it wasn't too long. For example, I could have used more epoxy and less filing to create the wrench and barrel vise inserts. That would have mad edit even faster to make the tools.
I finally got it. I used a pipe wrench. It scarred the barrel a bit which sucks but I am replacing the barrel anyway which is why I wanted it off. later on I will probably reblue this one though in case I ever decide to swap it back.
The video was awesome though and I wish I had taken the time to do it this way because in the end I saved myself no time because now I have to touch up the bluing.
Merry Christmas sir.
chris serpico Merry Christmas to you as well. Glad you got it figured out. Good luck with the rest of the project. Hope it goes well.
your cylinder was out of spec, you should have stretched the cylinder, or added a gas ring. this is a consistent problem on old pistols
hi. sorry, I am not sure why you think that the cylinder was out of spec, when the barrel forcing cone and face were simply damaged. have you seen my other videos where I fixed the issue?
It's why gunsmith like me, 35 years of experience with these. It's a notorious problem. And a cylinder stretching fixes it. You don't have to thru all that trouble just saying
PS. It hardened very hard and that's why you have to stretch it. If you pinned around the barrel front , filed it and stretched the cylinder, and or gasket the cylinder. You. Will fix it for a long time and not short life on the barrel fix. If that was a solution Colt would have done it long ago.
BOB DUNLAP explained this long ago, aka AGI. He worked for colt and I have done several times. Rugars are soft and easy. My name is Michael Sharpe. Sharpeguns@gmail.com. being repect full and helpfull that's all. These texts don't always reflect that
+Michael Sharpe I am not arguing, just trying to find out for my own personal knowledge. the gunsmith refused to work on an old COLT, so I did it myself. can you point out what your perception of the problem is? as in, why do you believe the cylinder is out of spec? what tells you that the cylinder is out of spec? How could the cylinder produce a really well defined rectangular ding on the side of the barrel face?
New barrel?
Not exactly.
Trebam cijev za Nagant Revolver .
MGW parts ili gunpartscorp moze bit pomoc
Pinged forcing cone
Garvey McNeill Thank you for watching.
Mst
Not sure what you are saying.
here is another link and comment.."The advice to hand file the barrel shoulder to align the barrel and to file the end of the barrel to provide the barrel/cylinder gap always ruins the barrel, since it’s near impossible to keep the surfaces perfectly square.
The result is tilted barrels due to uneven shoulders, and the end of the barrel not square with the cylinder."... smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/99388-how-revolver-barrel-installed.html
Thank you. I will be honest and admit that at one point for a few minutes I was planning to use the file to hand cut the new shoulder. But having had a lot of experience with files, and knowing how difficult it would be to work on that small of area, not to mention the importance of keeping the shoulder straight and flat, I decided to get a special shoulder set back fixture from Brownells. It is a fixture that holds a cutter and the barrel is piloted so the shoulder "should" be done well. I know there is nothing like having a lathe, having worked with them for a while in the past, but the fixture should do just fine. I also will finish the face with that special chamfering kit when it is back in stock. Though I am planning to pre-file it so that the cutter doesn't hit the "step" of that damaged area.
Here is the link to the barrel set back fixture
www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/alignment-tools/barrel-alignment-tools/master-set-sku080762000-854-3211.aspx
And here is a link to the tools I am waiting for:
www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/barrel-tools/chamfering-tools/complete-38-45-kit-sku080481000-26157-2197.aspx
very very cool, i think you are getting your bases covered,, i had know idea there was a tool like that... thanks...
also it may be possible to make some sort of jig to hold the barrel perpendicular to a granite block with sandpaper on it for the barrel face and maybe even the cylinder... good luck
carryit around Thank you for all your help and comments. I hope it goes well. I will post another video this weekend with barrel set-back
carryit around I was very happy to find it because I have no access to a lathe and it should do fine.
WAOOOOOOOOOOOO
ахаха))) наш человек!
Ну да. Я буду так-же делать инструмент для Ли Энфилд пересадки ствола.
Why does all these kind of video doesn't show when it actually twisted off instead show when it's lose u had to do something else for it to loosen up
You assume that I had to do something else to loosen it up. The only thing I did is reset it with new rosin powder and more clamping pressure of the vise. Nothing different was done, otherwise I would have shown it. I removed the chunk of video where I am just redoing everything shown earlier, because that was all the same. But it is good to know that viewers can take it as me tricking them. I don't do any tricking on this channel, just showing that stuff can be done with simpler tools.
@@MosinVirus sure I think u took it to the shop and made it look like u gotten it lose to get views so why not post the part where u gotten it off 🤔
@@thorocks you are free to believe whatever you want. If you watch my other videos you may realize that I am not that kind of a person/content maker. But, you do you.
You could’ve just adjusted the cylinder push hand and timed it up that way instead of taking the barrel off is it
And made a wooden dowel for a ranger ride
I wasnt addressing the timing. I was addressing damage on the barrel face.
Does this work for a single action
i dont know if those barrels were pinned or not.
good job but this is why I bought Dan Wesson revolvers much easier.
Thank you. I got this one for history and as a project gun.
Most gunsmiths won't touch a Colt revolver.
the reason why I had to do it myself.
+351WINCHESTER WHY???
Colts aren't so bad. The mechanics of the pistol are almost completely different from the others. When you need to make an adjustment, it affects the way the other parts work. So, you make the adjustment and then go through the entire timing adjustment process. S&W revolvers are a bit more forgiving, often you only need to verify that timing is still good.
Leave it the hell alone , Fire is going to come out the side.thats how revolvers work...I can’t watch anymore.
Ok, sorry for wasting your time.
The problem here I see is what you going to do now a good
gunsmith that spends a lot of money on tools to fix this and do it right find a good gunsmith.
I actually reached out to a couple of smiths and they all declined due to the age of the revolver. If you watch other videos I made after this one you will see that I fixed the major issues.
This is the most racist video I've ever seen.
That is a first. How so?
just being a dink. actually enjoyed the vid
LOL. I went over it looking for something that could have been possibly interpreted as racism. :)