How to Lighten & Smooth the Trigger Pull on a Smith and Wesson | Smith & Wesson Revolver Project
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- Опубликовано: 12 июл 2024
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Improving the single-action trigger pull on a Smith & Wesson revolver can be a safe and easy job if you have the right tools. Watch along as Larry Potterfield, Founder and CEO of MidwayUSA, explains the process to improve the single-action trigger pull on a Smith & Wesson revolver using a Power Custom Sear Stoning Fixture. He begins by disassembling the revolver and removing the trigger. Once the trigger is clamped to the fixture and the unit is adjusted for the proper angle, a polishing stone is used to true up the sear surfaces. A bit of Dykem is applied to the sear during this process so that progress can be monitored. The final step is to check the trigger pull with a pull gauge. 
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I love how he explains it as if it's that easy and anyone can do it, before busting out tools I've never even seen or heard of.
lol Good video all the same.
so true
He is just selling tools. There is so much more that can go into smoothing out any revolver. Jigs and fixtures? Make your own.
Seth B
He sells them because some people want them.
It often costs more to make your own than to buy
@@merlinious01 and you know the surfaces will be in plain and true when you use correct tooling.
@@merlinious01 Sometimes, the tools required, and the learning curve pushes a project to the point that it's easier/cheaper to pay someone to do it, even if you could do it yourself because they have the tools already.
It's nice to know whats done by the gunsmith. I don't have the skill, tools or confidence to attempt this myself but found it very interesting.
It's a real shame that the guns leave the factory without this already being done.
Especially for the price that they are.
Mo money...
Taylor (makers of single action "Cowboy Guns" offers "Taylor Tuning" as an option from the factory.
I don't remember what they charge for it but it made a HUGE difference.
I dry fired some of their guns at the NRA convention.
The Taylor Tuned guns were way lighter and smoother.
Made me wish they made double action guns as well.
Only the Performance Center ones are. My stock 686 has to be 15 pounds at least.
@@michaelbaker8284 you probably know this but you can buy a Wilson Combat spring kit for about $11. Takes about 10 minutes to install and significantly improves the action and lightens the trigger pull.
I'm a retired Engineer and now an Amature Gunsmith. I work on my Firearms and those of my my Family. I do pay attention to my limitations. However, I love Gunsmithing Tools and I must have the tool you're using.
I would like you to do this trigger job on my Taurus 856
Dry firing will not only smooth SOME things out, but will strengthen your finger so that what you THOUGHT was a heavy trigger is not much easier because you have a finger of steel now.
Very true. Dry firing and shooting makes the metal parts smooth themselves out. Some of my OLD 1960-1980 S&W revolvers are really smooth now, but the stainless crap needs work after extensive use. The locking lugs get knackered up and the cylinder will not lock up as tight as it should and that starts to create timing problems if not addressed. That little lug pin allows the cylinder to have .025-.035" of slop on the frame. A new lug usually fixes that. If not a new lug and a new ejector rod will solve the problem. Do it BEFORE you have timing problems, or you will need a new hand fitted hand, and possibly some extensive hand dressing on a new ejector's timing lugs.
@@Satchmoeddie I have heard good things about s&w performing repairs like that for their costumers especially those who have been shooting an older handgun for a wile
Well if you contact S&W for parts they’ll talk down to you and try to get you to send the gun to them to let them repair it. They don’t want us in our own guns at all. Needed a trigger guard for a Bodyguard38 and it was irritating. I wasn’t asking for a free one just some way to buy one from them. Finally they mailed me one “warranty repair” so free but I knew I bought it used and was willing to buy it but they tried 2 or 3 times to get me to mail it to them so they could charge shipping plus parts and labor at whatever their rate is for a maintenance part.
When I do a trigger job on a Smith I also polish the rebound slide wherever it contacts the frame and the safety lump on the bottom of the hammer, and polish the inside of the frame where any parts contact it. You just have to NOT increase any clearances - just polish, don't remove appreciable metal.
Hello Mr. Potterfield; Thanks for another great video! I just bought a brand new 617 S&W. when it came the double action trigger pull was 15+ lbs and felt like it had dirt in it, a Wolf spring kit, your video and a couple hours on Sunday afternoon solved the problem, thanks! Kindest regards and best wishes to you and yours, thanks again! Pink.
Very helpful video! I greatly improved a Smith and Wesson 1917 trigger and a Model 10 trigger. Thank you Larry!
This fella makes the best videos on guns , hands down ..
I know just enough about gunsmithing to know I should not attempt this.
The difference between "cleaned it up a little bit" and "fires if dropped" are subtle enough I don't want to go there.
We had a customer transfer in a 66-5 the other day that had the smoothest trigger I've ever seen. Hopefully there is a video for whatever they did to the cylinder too.
The most important tool is Jerry Kuhnhausen’s “The Smith & Wesson Revolvers, a Shop Manual”. Don’t loosen those screws without it!
There is so much you can do to smooth out a revolver’s action before ever touching the engagement surfaces.
Thank You Larry,
Your videos were already the best out there, but with high def. and a much more detailed instructional tutorial, you have just made me a permanent customer at Midway. Larry... you ARE the man!
Larry, you're a hero
you are making so good videos, i love that
Very cool to watch...a master's touch!
Very helpful information
Thanks,
Pete R.
Very useful information.
I am an old wheel gun fanatic. When "slicking" up an action I also polish the sides of the parts and the interior of the frames.
Me too. I even get inside the frame with rottenstone and rouge and polish that out too, and if I need them, I will grind my own shims from stainless steel feeler gauge stock. I usually buy .015", .020", and .022" to make lockpicks and guitar repair stuff anyway, so ordering out .0005" to .010" is no big deal, and I save on shipping by adding it to my lock pick stock orders. The 6" pieces already have a 3/16" hole in one end. They are 300 stainless steel, smooth, tough, and just work really great for so many different things. www.easterngage.com/products/feeler-gage-blades-stainless-steel-us-inch-sizes/
An added step that I find useful is to shim the hammer, hammer dog, etc with pieces of feeler gauge, after measuring and math happens.
** Pros and cons: It fine tunes the action that little bit extra, but it's more time consuming to perform a detail strip/reassembly
We love all of our blink cameras!
I've never thought about the frame/sideplate, good point! I polished the bottom of the rebound slide, that's it - Ah yeah, I removed that stupid S&W lock ;) Crappy reset was there before though. It doesn't bother me THAT much, the trigger pull itself is glass smooth.
very helpfull....thanks
LARRY makes everything look easy! he is NORM ABERAMS of guns.
Great video. Thank you.
If working with a blued S&W, owners need to be cautioned. The case-hardened surface of the trigger and hammer is very thin and if stoned too deeply, the softer metal below will be exposed. When this happens, the sear contacts will rapidly wear away.
Good video.
Thank you so much, I just completed the job and I love my new trigger on my 642. There are few mechanical differences and I had to adapt. But mostly happy that I did screw up the gun🙂
You are happy you screwed up the gun?
You are a strange man.
Great video. Things like this has kept me in job security for a while. People there are tolerances you do not know about and it will always be best for a gunsmith to do this job.
I'm no dentist, but I'd say unqualified tinkering with the trigger mechanism is a good way to get a foot blown off.
Boa tarde Excelente agora aprendi obrigado mestre
son increíbles que buenos trabajos enhorabuenapor favor podría hacer un video explicativo de como bajar la presión del gatillo de un revolver 686muchas graciassigan asi
Thank you..
Legendary institution.
Is there a hand loading tool for 357 magnums?
I am referring to that plier like multi tool, that deprimes, and primes, has a powder charger, a casing and crimping tool, and is an all in one hand loading tool.
I think Lyman used to make them?
I can't recall, it's been so long since I've seen one.
Adendum.
It's called an ideal no.4.
I wonder if I can get one for 357 magnum loads. That, would be so sweet.
good.job...
POTTERFIELD!!!
I was surprised by how little change there was at the readings. However, Larry did say that the object was to affect the smoothness of the action more than anything.
Very nice explanation. Now I need MORE tools... LOL. Thanks for the video!
Can the same be done on my Taurus revolvers?. I have a model 80-5, 66, tracker 44c? I understand them to be similar to smiths
thats awsome video
i got a tip for reloading with and without speed loaders
the blunt edge catches casings when loading
take a hand drill and bit small enough doesnt hit timing rotator and give it 1/8th inch
bevel on holes on cylinder and reloading is three times faster
no binding about 30 seconds each with drill might evan hit it with sand paper
my 624 didnt need it
the gun makers shouldve done that deburring the hole when they drilled it
reloading fast can save your life and loved ones
spread the word to wheel gun packing freinds please
its the american way
accuracy on all guns out of box was measured from a fixed vice and a computer. Not free hand. Each company has their own tolerance, but are also aware of the competition's tolerance. So for the most part, you can say they almost all shoot the same in terms of "accuracy" as it comes to a vice head gun. Now how accurate YOU are with each gun always plays a part because they all feel different. Trigger pull weight and gun weight can make them all shoot different in hand.
He never really covers the armorers review in his S&W series, but looking for burrs, and rub marks on the trigger and/or hammer with corresponding marks on the frame. Make the sure the sides of the hand and the rebound slide are smooth as well. Some things are obvious but and can be stoned but if you think there frame rubbing and assuming no damage then you can usually shim the problem area.
I opened my sideplate and found a TON of rub marks on my Taurus 94 9-shot .22. Hand polishing with a stone every part that rubbed against another, plus the trigger & sear, greatly smoothed and even lightened the horrible DA trigger pull. My crappy Taurus POS revolver now feels as good or better than a Smith!
I’m not a gunsmith and I try not to touch the sears. What I polish are the bearing surfaces and the rebound block. My S&W revolvers came through with, what I would call excessive tool marks inside the actions. By buffing out the tool marks made my actions a lot smoother.
Yes! The sides of the hand and the window it moves through in the recoil plate also need some polishing on many S&W revolvers. I’ve also had a couple with excessive side-to-side slop in either the hammer or the trigger. C&S makes shims specifically for those parts.
Its very safe to say any modern handgun at standard target ranges is always more accurate than you are.
Is there a channel somewhere that displays as much expertise but with 10,000% less custom tools? I have a garage, a vice, and some polishing stones.
I get great tips often from these videos, but it would be nice to know how to do a relatively simple job with relatively simple tools as opposed to several thousands of dollars worth of tools that were custom made by several thousands of dollars worth of other tools.
Ive heard that cleaning the internals and adding toothpaste or mothers mag polish and the dry firing the heck out of the gun can smooth the action out. Ymmv
It will. Just like running in an engine with low quality oil to make it settle piston rings and cylinder surfaces. Just takes a bit more time and perhaps not with the same controlled outcome.
It usually would be, but this is an excerpt from their DVD series. He only says that on videos made for RUclips/their site. And that's the way it is.
Lol I have a TRR8 and I love the gun. Please don't get the wrong idea. I really think S&W revolvers are the most well built mainstream production revolvers out there. With that said, this gun came with a Performance Center turned trigger. The single action is great but the double action on my new model Colt Cobra is wayyy smoother. The double action on my $200 Rock Island M206 Colt knockoff is also wayyy smoother.
If you don't have Dycum...use a sharpie.
Hello how are you doing..? I also did that work on my S&W .38 spl Cgt. of 1894/03/27, and if I did it in a single sanding direction, how the scissors are sharpened so it has a perfect finish. The thread of the 4 "pipe was also turned, two fillets to run the pipe backwards and adjust the Gap, it remained at 0.002" and the gauge does not fit, since 0.0078 "was removed from the drum in the front with the lathe, what surprises me is that this revolver model does not have a forcing cone, it is an excellent weapon, if I would like to know how they did to leave a perfect finish on the chrome or was it mirror polished nickel ...? There was triphasic power, yes continuous power, secret manufacturing procedures for these emblematic weapons, cordial greetings from Argentina, hugs for everyone.
On a revolver if you have one cylinder that sticks in double action shooting what is the likely cause?
You use a stone to smooth the sear and get a nice result. When sharpening a knife I start with stones but finish with a strop to get a much smoother result. There are strops that can be loaded with emulsions down to a tenth of a micron which will give a mirror finish. Wouldn't that easy extra step give you an even smoother result or is there a problem with the sear being too smooth?
+Herb Klitzner Where can i get them?
+Connor Keegan Go to KME Sharpening systems web site. One section is about CBN emulsions and kangaroo strops. the 4 micron is probably all you need. There are also diamond sprays and emulsions that come in all grades. these products can give a mirror finish. In general just google strops or knife sharpening.
Cool thanks
Does this apply to a Windicator 38 special? I heard they are just S&W copies?
I am new to revolvers and firearms in general. Why should you never touch the sear surface on the hammer? And does that mean physically touch it with our hands or touch it meaning remove material?
He simply means not to grind any material from the sear, as it can cause the sear to not engage correctly on the hammer and you can get misfires.
Because you can get what’s known as hammer push off which is simply when the gun is cocked in single action you can just push the hammer with your thumb and it will drop without the trigger being pulled
Hence the phrase, " going off half cocked".
As thermal expansion occurs from shooting, one of my 6 cylinders develops increasingly hard trigger pull while the other cylinders remain easy enough. Problem is not nearly as prevalent when cylinders are cold. I've cleaned it multiple times without success at fixing this problem. Larry, can you suggest any pointers what subcomponents or surfaces to check?
I would guess the cylinder has a bur/dent, deformation that is causing it to drag the forcing cone or top of the window or same situation on the yoke/cylinder assembly. I doubt it is an internal problem if the others work fine. Disassemble the main components and inspect.
You might have a little bend in your yoke tube or a high spot on your cylinder face. Find a good machinist gunsmith and start with measuring the cylinder gap for each charge hole.
Great video. I wonder if anyone knows a great gunsmith in San Diego who could do this for me. It's not something I would undertake.
Do u sell .32 s&w long hammer? I got broken one😓 im really need it. How much it is?
I got a colt trooper mk3 and I swear the double action pull is less than a pound I swear a feather could make the trigger go off
Larry dun did gain
I just would like to know the name of the tool and where to buy?
Midway, can you comment about "out of the box accuracy" of S&W revolvers, versus Taurus and Ruger revolvers ? (and any others for that matter)
I think this process used to be called sweetening.... Or something like that.
What's with a rough trigger reset? Mine creeps back after every trigger pull like there was a sandbox in there..
Get somebody to polish your rebound slide and the nest where it lives and see if that helps.
Why isn’t that done at the factory when the gun was built? I bet sometime in the past, it was!
Well it genuinely adds to the price point. Remember Smith and Wesson has to reasonably compete with Rossi, Taurus and everybody else. Secondly, an awful lot of guns spend decades in a drawer or closet maybe having never been fired by the owner. Lastly, you could say that about anything mass produced-it could be better, more refined, finer tolerances, better finish quality etc. A lot of things I built or rebuilt as a mechanic/machinist were honestly better than factory. Details
@@shotforshot5983 Another part of the problem is lawyers.
Lighter trigger pulls give blood sucking lawyers something else to go after gun makers with.
"You built this death trap with a hair trigger and that is why the person who pulled the trigger isn't responsible. Now pay up!"
You have it "bassakwards" . The newer S&W 's are the ones that need the work , not the older pistols . That is true , for the most part , for all types of pistols, rifles and shotguns . S&W has not been worth a "warm pitcher of spit" since the British bought them out a couple decades ago .
I just got a Rossi model 68 and the trigger pull must be like fucking 12 pounds at least. It's really really hard. Any tips that don't require diss-assembly/gunsmith?
Buy 12 snap caps (2 cylinders worth, I'm assume that's six, I'm not familiar with that model) and practice reloading the revolver while firing it a LOT. That smooths the trigger out the hard way, but its also the easiest way. I say snap caps just so you're not realy dry firing, and reload practice never hurts.
eyeorderchaos No. Either dry firing or live fire actually does smooth out most revolvers somewhat as the parts wear against each other...especially on new guns.
No, because any comment about the accuracy of certain guns would be sweeping generalizations. All factory guns are not equally accurate. Tolerances differ from company to company and for different styles of revolvers. Even with a machine rest, revolvers produced on the same assembly line will shoot group sizes that differ by several inches at 25 yards. Even with CNC machining, there are many variables involved. Note that most factories do not test fire every gun for accuracy, only function.
what's that purple stuff you use? how do you spell it?
dykem
scrapmetal100
thank you. I guess it's used like what the dentist uses with crowns, to see the high and low spots, to see what areas still need to be removed
Dykem or layout fluid.
I have seen many guns ruined by trigger jobs, I learned this the hard way even a self proclaimed expert like me. Hammers triggers and sears are expensive to replace and are never as good as original. lightning the trigger spring often causes miss fires especially when using hard magnum primers. LEAVE IT STOCK.
I agree ! The biggest problem I've ever had with used revolvers I've bought or traded for, is misfires caused from "trigger job's. Anytime someone is selling a revolver and tells me it has a "trigger job'- I run. No thank you. I'll keep my revolvers actions factory.
I have a Smith and Wesson 686 stainless 4 inch barrel with wooden grips. IT was made in 80s l wonder how much it's worth.
Andrew Villanueva I’ll buy it for 600
whats the sw model name?
it's a model 67.
*_What Can't Larry Do?_*
Can any one tell me what revolver this is
samuel rodriguez s&w 686
thank you
It's not a model 686. it's a model 67.
You get the same results, more or less, by simply shooting in the gun. 500 rounds or more. Buy some snap caps and practice. Smith’s polish themselves very well!
Rename to: Florida Man’s Guide to Instant ND
This video triggered me.
I'm pretty sure that it was supposed to do that.
You're going to have to find your safe space. Contact Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (1-800-LAME-CNT) for locations near you.
Dong Nippano 😆
Yet another project I won't be taking on.......
I’d rather have it stock.
cant you just polish with a dremel and a felt polishing tip?
You better not stone the ones with mim parts.
DAMN ALL THAT UNNECESSARY BACKGROUND NOISE!!!!
But...is That the way it is?!?!?....
I like my method. Shoot the gun 5000-10,000 x and it smooths itself right out. Why is the honing mark not quite square when using that $400+ jig?? And if that's a fine stone, I'd hate to see the coarse one. Break out a translucent Arkansas or a fine black surgical stone on that sucker and make it smoother than glass. When that procedure is done take a piece of leather bonded to a flat piece of steel and go even finer with some
All you need vice and files little bit of sand paper and hands growing from right place 🙈😂😂
Or you could watch Jerry Miculek video on how to change two springs and be done.
So basically, I can't do this at home
40 mins on the phone customer service suck!
Thanks, Dork
my 686 is now broken
Hindi mein batao Baba kya angreji Mein Ghanta
Thanks. You made it look so easy. NOT 😂
This guy is such a goofy looking man
Should say at the bottom do not do this yourself. Clearly this is work to be done by an older gun smith . Not some new kid off the block. Talk about leaving a few gray areas. Sad