Real Estate Photog Basics, Part 2: ISO Settings
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- Why do I shoot at ISO 320 so often for interiors? In this video I show examples and explain why, and then I take it all an extra step and do a few variations on some of my post processing techniques. I also have additional details on this in my real estate photography series at amzn.to/3mFoznx
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Love the details of your tutorials. Very easy to understand and very complete. Thank you for all your effort.
I just wanted to say Thank you for posting your videos. They are helping me so very much. Great work and very much appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to do these videos. I've been enjoying Photography for years but I can see that I have a lot to learn to perfect my RE Photography. Thanks again!
Hi Nathan, I just stumbled across your channel this afternoon and I'm so happy I did. I can't believe how much I've already learned and I've only watched a few of your videos. Thanks so much for posting your tutorials, I look forward to watching them all.
A big thanks Nathan, for your intuitive and helpful videos.
keep up the great work.
Nathan,
you are killing it! Found your channel 1 day ago and blown away by your work! Thanks for explaning this hard stuff so good :)
I'm starting in real estate photography and I just found your channel. Excellent instruction, can't wait to try these techniques out.
Dude, I was the same way. I practiced a lot on my own house and later ventured out and became a known real estate photographer in my city. Keep watching tutorials and you'll be great as well.
Thank you for the explanation. I've been shooting at ISO 320 (Mainly because of Rich Baum recommendations) for all of my shots other than window pulls because I am also using YN560. I had someone ask what were my settings on a shot I did I said "f8 (to get everything in focus) whatever the shutter speed needs to be, and IOS 320." They asked, "why not just do ISO 100 it's on a tripod right?" I didn't have a good reason other than "Well that's how Rich does it" This helped out a lot I really appreciate it.
This is incredibly helpful. Really appreciated. I basically binge watched your channel today. I am starting to gain a lot of MLS clients, and have never used a flash. My flash is on the way, and I can't wait to get started doing the flambient thing.
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation on this tutorial. Great video!!!
Thank you, now I can take professional looking photos for my clients.
Excellent and so easy to follow as well.. Just following these along with the book, and its a great help
Thank you Nathan that was very helpful! Loved the window pulls, much better natural look than HDR blend.
wow, great information!! very easy to digest and pleasant to watch!! thank you so much! Saludos from Mexico!
great tutorial!! absolutely necessary for professional work
Excellent tutorial Nathan - thank you.
These videos are invaluable.
Thank you!
Great video. It helped me understand the many different levels to consider. Thanks for posting
Thank you much. You're an awesome instructor.
Brilliant! Far better than my HDR pics. Thanks!
Seriously, HDR is so horrible, yet it was pretty quick to do. This is by far much better though.
Thanks for this tutorial, explained very well...I appreciate it very much. SAVED
He did it again, that's his signature... "Excuse the mess" ... Only a soap bottle on the sink. This guy is as smooth as Mobil 1 Synthetic
Right. I'm like thanks Nathan. Now I feel like an absolute slob lmao.
Thank you so much for your videos! I just bought your book on Amazon.
Absolutely great video
Great tips and process, thanks
Thanks a lot for the tips Nathan!
thanks for this 2 part video!!!! ughhh wish I had a standing flash for my first shoot tomorrow 😭😭😭
Nice job Nathan!
Awesome video! So helpful
Thanks for the great video Nathan. I got your book from Amazon Unlimited. Can't wait to read it.
Thanks Tanika! Hope you like it!
Your window pull looks great. I shoot my HDR with flash, but cant get as nice looking window pulls as you do. I wish there was a quicker procedure to great looking window pulls. thanks for the great video
Thank you! Great tips. My D3100 only has ISO 100, 200, 400, 800 and so on. I'll experiment with 200 and 400 but I suspect 400 will be a little noisy. However it may be a good compromise because I don't have a very powerful flash. Thanks again for the tips 😉
Luv this stuff!
Brilliant!! Thank you!
wow so much better than trying to merge to HDR, I will try this next in LR and PS then back to LR
You are Awesome!!! Thank you so much 😊
Thank you for sharing.
You are a great man...!
Thank you maaster :)
Hi Nathan, I watch your videos almost everyday while on my treadmill. Great stuff! I’m using a Nikon D780 with an Irix 15mm lens. Question about Active D Lighting. I saw your video on video lighting where you talk about using this enhancement for video. Do you ever use Active D on stills? Would love to see a video about this someday.
Thank you! Great showing of why a higher ISO is a good idea. One question: Where do you focus to get all the parts sharp at f8? Thanks!
Hi Sylvia, focusing depends on the room and subject. I use three different techniques depending on what I'm up against. I show all of those in a separate chapter in my new e-book, with examples: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Excellent explanations as always!!! One question in reguards to you remote triggering setup. I heard you say Yongnuo, but do you have the trigger mounted to the camera and a receiver on the flash and another trigger clipped to the belt? Or two receivers on the camera and flash transmitter in your hand. Thanks ahead of time. I am tired of using the 2 second timer.
YNs are just the flashes, I use Cactus triggers for everything, flashes and remote triggers.
Very well explained Nathan. Your tutorials are awesome. My querie is, do you use evaluative exposure metering for the ambient shot?. Is your flash mode on Manual or TTL? Thanks in advance !!!
I never use TTL, and I expose manually, making sure my histogram is just right of center...be a great tutorial!
Great video, thx a lot :) wish my kitchen was that messy :-D
Right! I said the same thing lol
Great videos. I have two questions somewhat related. How are you remotely shooting your yn's and second is your white balance auto or do you use custom, they appear pretty well on. Thanks
Thanks! I get into all of that in great detail in the interiors book at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
so cool~~~
Hi Nathan Great Videos. What lens do you use? I am looking at the TOKINA AT-X 116 PRO DX AF 11-16MM F/2.8 II.
I use full frame cameras, so the Tokina 16-28mm f/2.8
Mr. Cool, I wanted to thank you for your videos.
I'm getting together my gear to start shooting real estate in my hometown (Munich, Germany). I have a question regarding the cactus triggers. In this video, how many are you using? 1 on top of your camera, 1 below every flash you want to use, another as a shutter release connected to your camera? What do you have in your pants pocket then? Do they all act as receivers/transmitter? I want to know how many triggers to buy. Thanks in advance!
I have a cactus trigger on a visor clip on my pocket set to one channel (usually channel 4) in tx mode, which is the same channel for the cactus trigger acting as my shutter release (in rx mode). I then have a cactus trigger in my hot-shoe at a different channel (3) in tx mode, and all of my lights have cactus triggers on that channel (3) in rx mode. I'll make a tutorial soon on my gear, in the meantime I show some of it in this video: ruclips.net/video/M8tIUU9unos/видео.html
Hi Nathan, really great information. I’ll be picking up your e-book today. Quick question, I noticed you don’t have any of the recessed lighting turned on, is this normal process for your workflow?
Hi David, it depends on the agent, the room, and if it adds or detracts from it.
Great video, thank you. What kind/brand tripod are you using in this video? ...Looks like a nice one. Cheers!
Feisol. I break all of that down in my interiors book with links to that, the head, camera, lenses, triggers, etc. www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
nathan you are cool ! haha
what lens are you using?
I just picked up the sigma 10-20 and love it !
thanks for these videos they are going to help me so much
Tokina 16-28mm f/2.8 on D610...love it, and the price ;)
Great videos Nathan. Thank you. You talk about ISO and f-stop, but never say what you WB is set. Can you tell me what this is usually? Thanks.
Thanks! Auto WB indoors and 5600K exterior. I also grey card each paint color in a house (normally).
Hi Nathan, LOVE your videos, they have helped me sooooooooo much!!! quick question for ya, when you export out of lightroom, do you export at high resolution, say 300? Or do you export low resolution around 72? Do you also export at a certain ppi? if mls requires 1200×800 do you let lightroom do that as you export?
300 dpi. Our MLS allows high-res images up to 15MB, so I have that set as the limit. For other MLSs that can't take that big of a file, I have a PS action that takes care of that, which I show in ruclips.net/video/xiEp42bYImc/видео.html
Nathan Cool Photo wonderful! thank you so very much! 😊
I guess the trick is to not have anything in front of the windows when shooting a window pull? When I paint in the mask, plant leaves, lamp pennant, sink handles get the darker mask. I also get a blue cast... but still with practice, your techniques are spot on. Thanks!
Nope, you can have tons of stuff in front of the windows. As long as you overexpose the interior and expose for the exteriors, you'll be good. I show this, btw, in my new ebook, and in some of my other tutorials: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Can you please explain why you set the blending mode to "darken" for the window pulls?
In Darken mode, anything overexposed isn't used, so you overexpose the window frame and you can paint it in. Try it, you'll like it ;)
Hi Nathan, love your videos. Learned a lot, may I ask, are you using TTL on this shoot or manual? Thanks again for sharing amazing content
Hi Mickeal, I do manual everything, always, never TTL for any of my work, real estate, portraits, etc. I find TTL can vary from frame to frame, so I like to control everything at all times.
Thanks Nathan, I also use manual... But I feel myself sometimes taking longer for some types of room. Practices makes almost perfect... Need to keep shooting :)
Hello Nathan, i am watching your tutorials for the past week and there is something that i dont understand with your technique. What is the difference for "window pull" between using the flash and just simply using a repair photo (low exposure) ? Thank you for your fine work and great tutorials.
The darken-mode window pull is necessary to ensure you get an accurate separation between the window glass and the window frame, as well as other obstacles around the window (like plants, lamps, etc.). This is done quickly and doesn't require any special "cutting in" of the window. A repair layer can't get that accurate to the edges, so instead it's only used for repairing portions within the already defined window from the darken-mode window pull. For more info on window pulls, please see my interiors e-book at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Hello Nathan. well about the time I thought i had a breakthrough it seems not. Question sir,. which of your E books is best for this exact video. IE taking the correct shots with a speed light ( at this point) and then taking them thru the LR to PS transition. I am missing something ( so I've been told). I know one of your books will put me where i need to be to launch the RE photo business.
Unlike Star Wars, my books are best started at episode #1 :) Here ya go: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Hi Nathan, thank you for your fantastic tutorial, I have watched it time and time again but when I try and do my window pulls with the brush its not just working on the over exposed areas, its also revealing the other parts of the image I don't want altered. Im clearly doing something wrong, can you please shed come light on my error. Cheers
Hi Tracy, it sounds like you may not be turning the window pull layer into Darken blending mode. I have step by step instructions that may help in my interiors book, and worse case I offer 1-on-1 remote training...but I think the interiors book will get you squared away on this: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Thank you Nathan, yes I had already changed the blend mode to darken, I will purchase your book. Thanks again for your time.
I've been following you for a while and can't tell you how much I've learned. I'm hoping you can answer one question. When I am doing an ambient shot I can only use ISO 400 (Canon T3i) or higher for darker rooms, this produces a lot of noise. I don't know if the problem is the camera or the lens (Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 Canon Mount (APS-C). If I am going to spend money to fix this problem, which do I start with?
Not familiar with Cannon cameras, so can't speak to the T3i :(
Great video. I can't overstate how helpful theses are. Would you still recommend iso 320 on a Canon 60d (aps-c)?
My other observation is that you're flying through the process at a rate thats hard to absorb from a rookie perspective. A bit slower might help teach this old dog some new tricks.Keep em coming.
For ISO, depends on where your camera starts picking up noise.
Hi James. My advice is to watch his videos in chronological order. Some concepts that are mentioned here quickly are better explained in previous videos.
Hey Nathan. Curious what light stands are you using here? Looking for something light and compact for both small flashes and AD200's.
For speedlights I use cheapo Cowboy studio stands, but for anything else I use heavier duty stands.
im using a canon t3i which does not have 320 as an iso setting. can i just use 400 instead?
hey Nathan Big thanks for your videos very helpful.. do you know if I can access to some french subtitles with your video? thanks in advance for your answer
Sorry, no subtitles at the moment :(
@@NathanCoolPhoto thanks 🙏 I have a real problem to understand clearly why do you choose iso 320 instead of iso 100 ...
For my part I always shoot at iso 100 but really interested in understanding the big difference between each !
I explain it further in my interiors book as well: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Nathan, when you say (at 10:44) you will "just bump this up a full stop" in Lightroom, what do you mean? How do you do that?
LR exposure slider
Nathan do you use apeture priority, shutter priority or manual?
Almost everything is manual, I describe this in detail, step by step with the various options in the interiors e-book, here's a link to the REP series, book #1 is what you want: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
Question for you. Do you explain in any of your tutorials what you are looking for when you take your ambient photos? I understand the steps you are taking to create them, I just wonder how you personally decide what exposure to make your ambient photos?
Hi Bret, I explain that in detail in my e-book, what settings to use, how to expose, the goal for each frame, and more: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Great, then it looks like I will be buying your E-book. Thanks for the reply!
What color space do you use? Adobe 1998 or sRGB
Shooting in RAW it doesn't matter, and it depends on how you have your environment setup. I cover that in detail with recommendations in my advanced editing book, see www.amazon.com/dp/B0779PCVWC
Do you always keep your aperture at f/8 for interiors?
That or f/6.3 if I'm really pushing the lights hard, but almost always f/8.
I've been at ISO 100 since I started real estate photography 4 months ago....sheesh. No more!
What is the purpose of aiming the flash at the windows when you do the window pulls?
It's so that you can easily do what's known as a darken-mode window pull. This video shows that a bit more in-depth: ruclips.net/video/iBiSkTcDLBs/видео.html
Have you ever run into a situation where your iso is at 100 and your shutter is at the camera sync speed and your window is still over exposed? Maybe I should do a window pull as my first shot so I don't have to adjust my aperture and risk blurriness?
Never had that happen...ever. If it did, I'd likely take just an ambient shot and mask it in. Another option is to go lower ISO (D610s have LO1 and LO2 which can get me down to around ISO 50). But never had that happen yet.
What WB did you use for each photo?
It varies if shooting outdoors or indoors, but typically interiors are AWB with correction. I talk about that in my interiors book at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
what software do you recommend.
Thanks
Lightroom and Photoshop
At 5:40 You mentioned that you need to go down to ISO 100 "to get a good window pull". Why is that?
Exposing for the outdoors, using flash, with sync speed limitations. I have some new info coming soon on that...stay tuned...
Why can you use only 1/60 sec for the window pulls? Can't you go to 1/250 if your camera supports up to that sync speed?
I use 1/160 sec. A sync speed of 1/200 (on my Nikons) can have a lag with radio transmitters, so I tend to play it safe at 1/160. If I need a lower exposure I lower the ISO (can go down to ISO 50 if need-be).
Hi Nathan excellent video I've learned a lot If you ever put something together I would buy it thanks mate Im in Australia chat soon.
How do you handle long rooms?
Compositing. I show some examples in my e-book, and also in the compositing video on this channel: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Hi i cant find my previous comment so I will ask here: I still dont understand by increasing iso you get more from your speed light , i get it , but you could make another shot with even longer open shutter . It wouldn't be the same?
Nope, wouldn't be the same. Flashed light is not affected (much) by shutter speed; instead, shutter speed is the main factor for ambient light. I explain it in more detail in my e-book, which should help, also, try it yourself and you'll see: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Nathan Cool Photo Thanks
I think i get it now, basically ambient is the same but you gaining more power from your flash . I have job in airport terminal tomorrow, i will try and use some of yours technics to accomplish my job. Thanks for all your videos and all your help.
hi so the problem I am having, I am not able to adjust the shutter when my wireless x1 is turned on, so I do not know how to shoot at differen shutter with a flash
Change shutter speed on your camera.
thx I figured it out, I do not know why it wasnt working before, I also bough a light meter, so I will be testing using a light meter, with a flash , thx
Following all steps but when it comes to brushing and you say it only brushes out the over exposed part, mine just brushes out everything
Hi Taylor, sounds like you are missing a step. I assume you are talking about window pulls? If you are, and you are seeing it brush in everything, then either you didn't turn the layer blending mode into Darken, and/or you did not overexpose the interior with flash. I have step-by-step instructions in other videos, and also in my e-book at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
So what aspect ratio do you deliver?
SOOC
Wow -my people need 4x3 for mls so you deliver the default 3x2 then - interesting as I see Canon offers 4x3 in live view for framing while Nikon does not seem to. It must depend on the local or agency. I had one client who wanted the normal 3x2 and then 4x3 both. wild eh!
I don't have a 320 setting, only 100, 200, 400, 800 & 1600, what do I do?
400
@@NathanCoolPhoto Thank you!
What happens when you only have a iso of either 200 or 400?
Use either. ISO 400 will put less stress on your lights.
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