Window Pull and Flambient Examples, #1
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2017
- In-depth examples of cases where various flavors of window pulls and flash-ambient blending were used. I also have additional details in my real estate photography series at amzn.to/3mFoznx
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This definitely takes a lot of practice to master the basic fundamentals! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!
I can't express enough how much your videos have helped me!
Thank you to you and Rich. Natural teachers!
Really enjoying these videos and I have watched some of them three times to catch up on my PS lack of knowledge. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this lesson. TONS of useable knowledge.
You're a great teacher Nathan, thank you from here in the UK.
Best window pull tutorial I've seen
Extremely detailed thank you for showing us the hard situation that we deal with as well. Also, I appreciate that you stayed focus on the topic. You're very articulate and clear and precise about what you're saying. Thank you again keep the videos coming....
Thank you so much Nathan, I really enjoyed this video.
Thank you Nathan! I was stuck in my editing process. Now I got a lot of new knowledge and opportunities to get on with my work. ** Very happy :-) **
Thanks Nathan. Excellent video
Perfect and well produced, thank you very much
I just bought the e-book. Excellent work, thank you for your clear explanations and processing steps.
Absolutely AWESOME content! Took me a few days of watching the same videos over and over again but now figuring it out. Also, I have photoshop elements from 2008 so little challenging to adapt.
Thank you very much Nathan . I learned a lot from him. he is a very good teacher. hope you will release more useful videos. Thank you so much
thank you so much Nathan.
From New Zealand, cheers for the insights Nathan
Thank you for your videos, very helpful!
Thanks Nathan. That Darken layer mode is what I have been searching for. I feel like my editing process is now a Voltron with all 5 lions instead of 4. Keep up the great work and holler if you are ever in Central Texas.
Nathan , thanks a lot, it's really helpful.
Thank you for sharing this.
Really appreciate your invaluable understandable step by step lessons for beginners!!! thank you :-)
Love this, helped me a ton ! Thanks !
This helped me IMMENSELY!
Thank you! Very helpful!!!
Thank you!
great video, definitely helped with getting correct window pull. thanks. Btw. when you are in quick mask mode, instead of using your eraser tool to undo your brush, just press "x" and you will be able to undo/erase with exact same settings.
Yep, hitting X -- which I do occasionally in other videos, for example when using gradients -- switches the foreground and background colors, so when editing a mask it changes the selected colors from white to black (btw, I don't use quick mask, just masks). It's all preference, and I prefer to use E and B keys to switch between eraser and brush, that way I can leave settings on one that don't affect the other; for instance, when doing a window pull I set my brush to 100% flow, but my eraser, if I need it on the pull, is rarely at 100% (so I can have less flow to erase lightly dark portions).
This was so helpful! Thank you! also... I'm glad you said something about that mermaid mirror! ..so weird :)))
Muito Obrigado!
Cool!
Hi Nathan, I love your videos, very informative and easy to follow, so thank you..! I have been using a HDR/Flambient blending method and am having success with that. I can see that flambient without HDR looks even better though, especially for more natural colours.
I am wondering if you have done any tutorials on the best (and simplest) workflow for importing your photos into Lightroom and the best way to basically set it all up from the beginning - especially using external HD's. I work on a Mac laptop and am sure there is an easier way than what I'm doing. Thanks again and keep up the great videos!
Sounds like a great tutorial...I'll definitely put it on my todo list.
Who are the 19 ignorant people who disliked this amazing video?
Nathan - fast becoming a fan of your tutorials...you're offering some good stuff - I'm somewhat new to photography (especially using flash and/or ambient shots) - there always seems to one point in your tutorials where I loose the flow - i.e. a "flash" shot vs. a "lit" shot . . . what's the difference? I love your end-results and would like to understand more clearly your terminology so I could "follow along", as it where - I see we have the same issues and you've done a nice job overcoming - I've been using HDR for almost 3 years but your "Flambient" process is far more accurate in color -do you have a specific tutorial where you march step-by-step? . . . thanks!
Seems like this wasn't answered but from what I can gather lit shot is a flash shot, but it is not on full power, and the flash is not pointing straight at the scene. Please correct me if I am wrong Nathan, and thanks for the videos.
Can you give us the link for your Auto align layer acitons video that you mentioned? Thank you Nathan
I have been watching a ton of your videos. I love how you break down steps and explain things calmly. If your in a situation with sheer curtians over the windows what would you do? Not sure if you have a video on that or not.
If you are hiding the view with shear curtains then it's likely that you don't want to show the view, so you would not pull.
Nathan Cool Photo if you walked in and the curtains were closed would you open them up or keep them closed? I guess that's the better way to ask lol.
This is a circular question :) If there is a view, open them. If there is a view, then pull. There are though various other situations, and I'm thinking a tutorial showing examples might help. I put it on my todo list :)
Nathan Cool Photo I guess that kind of answers the question. Wether to open the curtians or decide that the Lister decided it was a good idea to have them show the curtians
Hey Nathan your videos have been a big help. I have a question on focus. When you get your camera all set up composition wise and go to focus for your first shot, what do you do after achieving focus for the remaining shots that you take, with flash and for the window pull for example? Do you lock focus after the first shot? Do you turn autofocus off after you set you focus initially? I'm just always concerned my camera is going to change focus for some reason every time I trigger it for the subsequent shots. Thanks!
This is exactly what I needed to learn. Been struggling with using brushes on windows and having window frames become darker. What is the Rove light that you use? Im struggling to get enough light with my Canon 600 speedlight.
www.adorama.com/fplfrl600.html
Nathan, Thank you for your great videos! In the beginning of the video you said the flash caused a lot of color cast then instead, you took a "lit shot"(4:32 min) . What did you mean by that? Thabks🙏
Useful to see variations and diff scenarios. I think I need to look pay more attention to color casts. Seems difficult to notice at the moment. So for the flashed shot you decided to use, the flash power was lowered and shutter was slowed down, correct?
Hi great videos! Quick question, how do you avoid seeing the flash in the window when you're shooting a window pull? I've been noticing it in some of mine.
Use less light and angle it
This is an amazing tutorial! One question, why do you "flatten image" in photoshop before you save it? I've saved it without flattening the image and it looks the same in light room.
Size and file management, which depends on what all I may save. I explain that in more detail, along with other options in the "Photoshop Integration" section in my advanced editing book: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779PCVWC/ref=series_dp_rw_ca_2
Hey Nathan, great videos! I have a flash question; regarding output, do you go manual on the flash, or do you expose for window pulls and TTL the flash and ride the compensation?
Manual always. I cover how to adjust/expose for all of the frames (ambient, flash, window pull) in my e-book: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
thanks for the video. i am struggling with light bloom when shooting toward bright windows in the ambient shot like you do in this photo. do you have any tips on how to avoid the bloom or flare?
You need to expose properly to reduce ambient artifacts like that. I talk about the in more detail in the interiors book, not sure if you have a copy, here's a link just in case: amzn.to/2NcGenL
Hi Nathan. Thank you so much for your tutorials! How can I avoid or remove reflections of my flash in the window when doing a window pull? Greetings, Tim!
Take multiple pulls. I talk about this in my advanced editing book, see www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779PCVWC/
Thank you for your reply Nathan Cool!
How do you use thus method when the view of the window is not clean? For example: there are semi-opaque white curtains hanging in the front of the window?
Same way. If there are curtains, then there is little sense in a pull, but it's the same technique.
Hello Nathan. Totally use your videos to sharpen my real estate photography skills. Thanks for some very useful tutorials and sharing your experience! I got to looking to purchase your entire collection of books and only see the Kindle version in the package. As a "formal" studied photographer, I have kept every photography, lighting, etc, (hardcover) book I every had in college and would like to add your books to my library. Can you offer all of the hardcover books in one package? Thanks!
All of my books come in paperback as well, here's a link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=dbs_dp_rwt_sb_tpbk&binding=paperback I do though recommend the e-book version as it can be read on any device using the free Kindle app, graphics are much clearer when following screen shots and examples, and they cost less as well.
For some reason the darken mode is not working for me. The brush is not staying within the window. What am I doing wrong?
Is there a way to adjust the darken mode to make it even darker or is this done by taking a darker exposed shot outside before processing?
Thanks
If you overexposed the shot enough, then you can just lower the exposure on the window pull shot in LR before editing as layers in PS. Also, you can play around with dehaze in LR before sending to PS.
Hey Nathan! For some reason no matter what I do, darken mode for a window pull won’t work for me. I have the window pull shot on top, create the layer mask, select darken mode, and when I go to brush over the window nothing happens. Am I missing something? I’ve checked flow and opacity of the brush and everything seems to be where it needs to be. Super confused! Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
If nothing happens when you use a brush on a mask, it could be that your colors are inverted (black, instead of white as your foreground color).
Do you have a video that explains why you use the layer>mask>hide technique vs just a regular layer mask like Rich Baum uses? I still can’t get my head around these multiple layer layer masks and what I’m seeing when I paint on them.
My e-book on advanced editing goes through step by step the concepts of layers and masks, and that with the interiors e-book will provide you with step-by-step instructions for the editing process, You can check them out at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
Hey Nathan. Great video. Just had a quick question. When you auto-alligned the layers i noticed that it seemed to snap to the image after it was cropped? I usually have a bit of white transparency on the outside and have to crop back in. Is there a way to do this? Would make my workflow a lot quicker. Thanks!
Hi Jimmy, you could make a PS action for that.
In my PS, next to flow, I have another parameter called 'smoothing', but I don't see that on your PS. Why do I see this extra parameter in my PS??
Thanks Nathan. Nice technique. I have a question though about the window pull. What do you do if the window frames are not light colored so they blow out easily with your window pull? If The window frames are dark wood or painted won’t they get too dark when you’re doing your mask to reveal the outside? Seems like you would a get dark edge where the brush overlaps onto the frame. You need to be much more precise and outlining the windows.
Doesn't matter, just overexpose the interior no matter what material surrounds the window. I have more on this in the interiors e-book at www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Hey question, Do you white balance for every room and how do you balance your flash temperature with your ambient temperature? Thank you Nathan
I AWB, and I also gray card each paint color. The more flash I can use with a higher shutter speed, the less ambient I'll get. Ambient color though is part of life ;)
I love your videos! Is there one book out of the several on amazon that give most of this information in extreme detail? I’m still not very understanding if the photoshop aspect of light painting and window pulls and painting flambient etc.
I have three that are available as ebooks or paperback. Interiors book is likely what you're after. See www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0791GL8RD?ref=series_rw_dp_labf
Is it possible to pay you directly for the PDF for all the books?
Sorry, no.
Great video, as usual, thank you very much! Do you usually shoot windows with the blinds down or how do you make this determination?
Thanks! Depends on the view, and also if the blinds are shot or not...hate to have them up if they are gonna sag or look like crud. Mostly though it depends on the view. btw, I usually leave blind adjustments to the client...hate to break those things.
Great, thanks for the help!
Hello Nathan
I have a question about white balance.
When doing daytime interior flambient photos, do you as a rule set the white balance manually after the exterior ambient light for BOTH the ambient and the flash shots? I guess ambient and flash should always be the same color temperature?
Thanks
Lasse
Hi Lasse, this video I did may help answer that: ruclips.net/video/PVLZJF3OCDc/видео.html
Ok, saw that tutorial earlier - great help :-) Of course - I'll get my green card... sorry grey card tomorrow :-)
Lasse
I always notice how these tutorials show nice neutral decor. How about demonstrating a complex room with dark decor and heavy shadows and contrast with tiny windows and mixed lighting temperatures please.
Like an old victorian house that we have here in UK. LOL.
Hi Rick, I show how to shoot dark rooms in other videos (like this one ruclips.net/video/6iu7tvP1erU/видео.html ) and I have chapters dedicated to shooting dark and wood rooms (a worse case) in my Lighting Guide. Basically you just change the light modifier for bouncing or shoot-throughs, but here's a link to my lighting guide in the UK if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Z9KKGCS/ref=series_dp_rw_ca_6
@@NathanCoolPhoto nice one. I will check it out. Many thanks for reply. 🙂
Hi Nathan, I’m hoping you can help me real quick. I’m trying to practice with window pulls and I’m following all the camera settings you talked about in your interiors book, but for some reason the outside is wayyyy too underexposed. It looks like it’s nighttime outside. I’ve moved the settings all over the place and they all seem the same. How could I resolve this to get a nice window pull? Also, it’s kinda cloudy out today if that makes a difference. Thanks!
I'd have to see what you're doing and review it with you. This would require a remote coaching session with me, email me for more info at Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com
I've tried this on several of my photos and just can't get it to work.... I'm really not sure what I'm doing wrong....
Hi Nathan, thanks for all the great informative videos. I had a quick question about something I've noticed regarding your window pulls. Now, this is just my opinion, but I feel like it looks slightly unnatural how the windows look so perfectly exposed from an interior perspective, almost like they're a bit *too* dark. What are your feelings on lowering the opacity of the window pull layer a little bit to bring back a little bit of that overexposure? Is that going to look less professional or is it just a matter of taste? Thanks!
I provide what my market requires/wants, and that's what you'll see in my work ;)
Hi Nathan, Just stumbled on your videos and glad I did. You really know your stuff and incredible quick work flow. I can learn a lot from your work, I subscribed. I am going to try and watch all your videos but quick question. Would it not be just as quick to bracket? I have not watched but two so far so I am assuming that will come up in one of your videos. Great job I'm impressed because you really retain a more natural look while refining the dynamics. Locally the editing in Homes magazines just look fake and people even comment to the Relator it looks fake.
Hi Dion, oftentimes I can pull off one ambient shot, and if not, I don't want to waste my time with a bracket of shots that may all be way off. I used to shoot interiors with brackets but found it slowed down my shooting and processing time with way more images than I needed to deal with. btw, I always shoot brackets for exteriors, during the day ISO 100, f/8, 1/320, +/- 1 stop bracket of 3, then I step the speed down to 1/160 or less for more shadowy/darker scenes and bracket again.
I'm a little confused on your answer. You mentioned that bracketing creates to many images to deal with but it seems from this example your are dealing with at least 11 exposures. Isn't this more than what you would get with bracketing? Is there a reason you don't just use a meter? I'm just curious. Thank you for your videos.
Hey Nathan - I have another question. Is there any reason you wouldn't ever use the ambient layer as the base layer and brush in the flash exposure in certain parts vs. using flash and brushing in ambient? I am asking because I did a room today and the ambient shot was really nice due to variables for the room. So, I felt like I would be pulling in more ambient exposure if my flash was my base vs. the other way around.
The only rule is, use whatever works for each shot. For me, I know the colors are likely more accurate using flash (WB tends to be more accurate), and I can control shadows better. But, I've seen various conditions where even an ambient shot works ok, and a window pull is added. All depends on what the situation calls for...feel free to break the rules...be a rebel :D
Good point re: colors. While an ambient may look good, it may not accurately portray the colors.
Thanks!
- The Rebel
When you work the window pull why do you move it to the top? Can't you just work it in place? New to Ps & still learning. Great videos thanks for sharing have learned a lot.
Nope, needs to be on top to override exposures underneath it.
Ok I see Thanks
Do you suggest aiming the strobe straight at the window Nathan? Or do you just hit the roof again?
It's angled. My latest tutorial talks about that as well: ruclips.net/video/iBiSkTcDLBs/видео.html
Hi Nathan, I learnt a lot from your videos and they are really helpful. So thank you! I got a question about window pull. With the same ISO, shutter speed and aperture to make window scene look right (blue sky and trees etc.), what is the difference between with and without flash apart from the window frame get over exposed?
Thanks! It's to make life easier in editing using the Darken mode technique. More on that in my latest book: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Thanks Nathan and I will check out your ebook.
Can you explain what you mean by "window pull"? I understand layering as well as masking and how to do it in PS.
Ah, a separate exposure for the outside light... okay, got it. Thanks, and I will watch the video!
Hi, what metering are you using and where in the scene are u focusing? Best, William
Lots to cover on that, but I have all the details in my e-book, which talks about how to meter using histograms, and the various focal points for different rooms/situations/compositions: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Nathan, I have seen others use eraser tool in blending? Why not just hit "X" and take some back off, Then brush size and flow stay the same?
It's a matter of speed and accuracy. I address this issue in books #1 and #2 in my real estate photography series: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FF9HSR5?ref=series_rw_dp_labf
Hi Nathan! I just opened my 3 images from Lightroom (Export images as Layers into Photoshop)-(to carry out a Window pull) into Photoshop and I noticed the 3 images don't line-up properly. Any idea why?
You might have bumped your tripod, or your setup isn't steady. Do an auto-align in Photoshop with all layers.
I shoot all my real estate HDR with a -2 EVA that I can isolate window views in Channels. Using your method, I have been hit or miss with my 400-600 watt Quantum Qpaq flash. With complicated windows, do you expose with flash exactly as you would if you wanted just a flash exposure? I find there must be a balance there because when I over expose the window moldings, sometimes the window pull outside view is way too dark and unusable.
For window pulls, I expose for the outside and overexpose the window frame for use in darken mode. Not sure if I answered your question?
Hey Nathan. I'm really interested in real estate photography but I'm a newby to all of this. A few days ago I bought all of your e-book series. I finished the "interior" one (minus the post processing") and am currently reading the "exterior" one. I even went outside and tried to photograph the front of a random house following your guidelines. The only thing missing is feedback. I'm actually a teacher and one of the things I need is some type of feedback so that I know if I'm on the right path or not. Do you offer a class online? An online discussion forum? This would be very beneficial to me. Also, what school/certificate program would you recommend for real estate photography?
Hi Sterling, I provide remote photography coaching sessions. Email me for more info: Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com
I've seen several tutorials on this, but it's not working for me. I'm reasonably proficient with PS CS6, but my brush always affects all layers no matter how I try this. So as I'm trying to get the exposed window to come through, if I hit the pane or anything it's revealed as well. I've googled the hell out of this and reset all my tools to no avail. What am I missing? Help please!
Two things: first, you may want to look through books #1 and #2 if you're not as familiar with LR and PS, and/or have a remote private session with me to see what you are doing (you can email me for more on that). Here though is a link to the REP series: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NLRKNM?ref_=series_rw_dp_labf
slightly off topic Nathan, but do you have baseline or go-to (preset) adjustments for noise reduction + sharpening with these raw ISO 320 ambient shots in your videos that you are running through Lightroom?
I don't do any noise reduction, I shoot with D610s and don't have any noise issues at ISO 320. For sharpening, I do up that a bit, but with a mask. I'll cover more of that in another video about specific presets soon.
hmm, interesting. are you batch running the raw files through a proprietary Nikon raw processing program first before hitting Lightroom? i apologize, i am only familiar with Sony. i find that i definitely need to run a Lr preset that i made for noise reduction when going from camera into Lr. so i am trying to figure out why the .nefs you have are seemingly less noisy compared to .arw if all else is equal, including relatively low ISO numbers.
naturally i will stay tuned for your upcoming videos. thanks!
Sounds like you need a better camera ;) The D610 has no visible noise at ISO 320, in fact, I can shoot up to ISO 800 a lot of times with little to no noise. It's one reason I use a higher end, full frame camera...it costs a bit more, but you can save time in post (low noise, high ISOs, and high dynamic range). btw, for real estate I don't use any OEM pre processing software, however, because OEMs (like Nikon) keep their RAW/sensor info proprietary leaving Adobe (and others) to make best-guesses, I do use OEM software for other work, here's a video I did on that: ruclips.net/video/ADked2s0A9w/видео.html
What version of Lightroom are you using?
This is an old video so it's using an older version of LR. I update my Adobe programs once a year, so I'm using CC 2020 now for PS and LR.
Nathan, is there a reason for you using iso 320 instead of 100?
Yep, watch this one: ruclips.net/video/cl8QXeH2hac/видео.html
Thank you!
I shoot a lot of real estate and do my own editing. I rely on Photomatix to process well over 100 photo brackets (-2,0,+1,+2) per day so I really do not have the time to do custom edits as you do, but I do use your method for pulling windows with Lightroom and Photoshop where I have them. Early in the morning and in the evening, my pulls look good. However when there is a huge difference between overpowering light from the window and the interiors, my window views are coming out dark green and almost unusable. I have plenty of light power to blow out everything. I have tried shooting directly at the windows from 45 degrees, shooting at the ceilings, bare bulb, shooting the wall behind me etc. Usually I succeed in creating reflections from the interior items onto the windows. In terms of flash exposure or light intensity / direction, can you help me?
Hi Brent, I have additional information on what you're talking about in my recent book on interior photography, which I think will help: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
Nathan, are you pointing your big flash directly at the window or bouncing it?
Neither. I show that in more detail in this video ruclips.net/video/iBiSkTcDLBs/видео.html
Could you just expose for the outside, no flash, and then just paint the windows into the final shot without having done a true window pull with over exposed door/window frames, etc.?
That would be very, very difficult. Doing a flash-dark-mode window pull takes a couple seconds, and doesn't require you to cut out door frames. In darken mode, your brush can overlap the interior and it won't matter. More on that in my interior photography book: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
When I shoot for window view and overexposing around windows I can see all the reflections in the glass :x
No way to put filter on my lens.
Some advice?
See newer tutorial, and watch both examples at ruclips.net/video/1Xmwr92n3GA/видео.html
@@NathanCoolPhoto Thanks for your answer.
But in this video of yours you have just a few reflections, in my case it's a lot of reflections. It's almost everything in the room - like bed, table, lamps, chairs...
For now I just use noflash photo exposed for outside view, but it's much more work in postproduction to blend it with ambient/flash shot of interior.
That's because I'm not over flashing. If you use too much flash you will introduce reflections. So if you are seeing so many reflections, of everything in the room, then you are very likely using way too much flash power. Practice with different flash powers at home and see the results. If that doesn't help, then the next step would be to have me review your work with you. You can email me at Nathan@NathanCoolPhoto.com for pricing and availability on my remote photography coaching.
Hi! I have a question. What do you do if the window frame is in a different color like brown or black?
Doesn't matter...overexposure is overexposure, no matter the color. Just always make sure to flash enough light at the window/frame to overexpose the interior.
okey! It was really hard to get it right overxposed when i tried, but someone went fine. The hardes one was those with window that also had freming on the window (dont know English word). Many of the shots came out with lot of white flash casting in the window becuse I had to overexpose a lot, and the repair layer with no flash was hard to use becuase of the "exposure" difference. Is there something you can then do so the repair layer, and the flash layer can be used togetter any way, or get rid of the white flash casting on the window? :) Thank you so much for responding! Have read all three of your books and they have helped me a lot :)
Hi Mari, I cover some of this in the interiors book, and the advanced editing book as a section dedicated to advanced window pulls that covers much of what you're talking about: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FF9HSR5?ref=series_rw_dp_labf
what is that trigger set you are using
Cactus. I show how I set it up for shutter and lights in my interior book: www.amazon.com/dp/B0755KXSL4
thank you, great videos!