How can you show us, all your incredible work and not take the car for a drive, to see if you notice any hp gain? Abyway great video, very thorough and helpful. Much appreciated!!! 👍
Thanks for showing in RUclips, I learned a lot from you. I am working on swap the carburetor on 66 mustang to weber.I run to the same sit back,linkage and air cleaner.
Reminds me of the 68 stang I had in the late 80's. I put the Offenhauser 3 singles on it with Hooker duel exhaust Mallory duel point and the biggest cam that Iskey made for it. The thing sounded so mean. Not very fast but it sure did make everyone guess what was under the hood. Good times.
Thank you so much for the video. I am about to do the same carb switch and I really appreciate all of the information here, especially the air filter height concerns using this carb and adapters.
Thanks i got same 66 mustang and pricing everything together i was going to go with the Duraspark 2 distributor set up which require a ignition module and some mod to the harness I did not know about that HEI distributor which is way cheaper option and easier set up...if you ever get time do a follow up video on how you tune the carb?
AutoRays Garage glad my video helped, some of the distributors out there are over $300. As for timing the carb, I just went by the instructions that came with it. I really haven’t gotten into tuning jets and stuff.
Thanks for the info. Wondering about the transmission vacuum line? Did not see it hooked up. Transmission vacuum line transports vacuum to seamlessly shift gears when needed/ I think it goes to the vaccum modulator. The line goes over the top of the trans, attached to a manifold vacuum source. If you have a port on the intake manifold, that would be a place to attach it. I also have a 66 200cc l6 A/T
J C after the car was at running temperature, I had to set the idle spreed and idle mixture screw. The next morning when it was cold, I set the idle speed for the choke. The carburetor came with instructions to do all of it very simple
Jason, thank you so much for the video. Is the air cleaner clearance issue a problem because you used the adapter vice milling the head for the 1v/2v conversion?
If I would have found this kit while I was rebuilding my motor, I would have found someone to mill the intake. But you have to use the adapter if you don’t mill it. That’s why I had to use a small air filter so it wouldn’t hit my hood when closed.
So I should be done my install today, I have one line I am not sure where it goes. Its on the driver's side behind the valve cover and goes underneath the car towards the transmission on vacuum modulator i think
Great video Jason - thanks! Now that it has been a few years, how is everything working? Anything you would do different? I am tired of fussing with the 1100 so will most likely do this conversion soon.
Only thing I would have done different was have the intake milled out so the adapter plate sat lower when I had the engine rebuilt. Other than that it works great, have not had to touch it since I put it in.
Great video, I really like how it turned out. I am going to get a carburator for my car as well, but I wanted to know how to install the distributor. can you give me some pointers? Ive never done this. Thanks in advance...
Con Fran Aprenderan I didn’t think about doing the video until after I already installed the distributor, wish I would have. Take your #1 spark plug out and turn your crank to TDS on compression side. Once that is done you can take your distributor cap off and look at where your rotor is positioned. Pull the old one out, and install the new one distributor and make sure the new rotor is pointing in the same position. Put the bolt back in but don’t tighten it up. Start the car and adjust your timing then tighten up the bolt. Good to go. Lots of videos on RUclips to help you out. Good luck.
Hey, Jason. I just bought the kit, but the link for the distributor doesn't yield any results. Do you happen to have a part number I could reference? Thank you and thanks the video too. Very informative. I appreciate your time.
Question when u put the new distributor on, how did u identify the order of the plugs?. I have the point of tbe distributor pointing at cylinder 1 but not sure what 2,3,4,5,6 are on the distributor cap
How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire. Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)
@@argaknot I just put the Dui in along with the Weber 32/36 swap. It was a pain to get that dizzy to drop in buy finally got it. I think its always the sloppy oil pump shaft that makes it difficult. Rebuilt thr 200 with 1.5& 1.75 intake/exhaust valves. 264/274 Clay Cam. Bored. 030 over with flat top pistons. Took .090 off of head for more compression. She runs and sounds great with the dual open headers but still not putting out enough power. You mentioned providing the CORRECT JETTING to get the Weber to run better. DO YOU HAVE THAT INFO ?? Great video. Need to order the air filter for the Weber. And were does the line go from the PVC valve hose ?? Does it hook up to thr carb ??
Hey there my name is Nick from California, your video was helpful. I have a 1961 Ford Ranchero 144 in-line six. When you get the two barrel carburetor kit from Vintageinlines does it come with the spacers and adapters in the kit or do I have to buy that separately?
Hey, where did you run the tach wire from the HEI distributor? Running the hot wire from the old coil to the HEI "Bat" makes sense, but my 1966 mustang does not have a tach in the dash. Thanks.
@@argaknot thank you. So I have the carb, regulator and the hei distributor hooked up like you have the in video. Pretty sure everything is hooked up. Ran the e choke wire from the old hot for the relay. Tried running the hot wire from multiple places for the hei dizzy. Heater blower, relay near battery, a few wires I traced from ignition switch. First few times I tried to fire it up sounded like it wanted to now just turning engine over and no start. Even had little bit of smoke out of carb like combustion was happening. Maybe no spark now? I in line fuel filter near the carb is getting fuel. Maybe the firing order?
Check for firing order or of your distributor I 180° out. Take your #1 spark plug out and turn it over until you are a TDS on the compression stroke. Then make sure the rotor is at you #1 spark plug wire
@@argaknot thanks. I don’t have a timing gun so I took out #1 plug and stuck a ball of paper near the hole. Tried to turn it over and when the paper ball shot out I marked the rotor position for #1. Replaced the cap keeping #1 plug wire at that location and replace the others in the firing order. Still not turning over. I have the HEI dizzy wired to a key on hot wire coming from the firewall.
Goodstuff Betterstuff I definitely have more power with the 2v carb, but if I wasn’t having so many issues with my 1v carb I probably wouldn’t have spent the money on the carb but upgraded the brakes.
Jason Bouteiller I did the front disc swap from a Torino. I recommend that upgrade. I also did a split header with an X pipe through quiet mufflers. Car runs fine for now so I’ll sleep on the carb for now. Keep up the good work, Thanks for the reply.
How does the performance and economy compare to the old set up,I currently have the single barrel strongburg, would like to do this on a 67 falcon ute Australian version
I have a lot more power, and runs much smoother. I was having so manny issues with the 1v carb that it was a must. As for fuel economy it almost the same. I did put air conditioning in and that takes more fuel to run but with temperatures over 100° here its worth it..
Dennis first, make sure you have spark, you can do this by pulling your #1 spark plug out plug your wire back in and turn the car over you should see good spark. If you have spark, bring your timing to too dead center (TDS) and take off your distributor cap where your roster is pointing is your #1 should be and then follow your firing order in the direction the rotor turns when cranking the envy over, I think it’s clockwise and it should start. Then it’s just a matter of timing it.
@@ralphmccormick1940 The Pertronix is good, I have it... But running that setup on manifold vacuum instead of port made all the difference in the world on my car. Night & Day...lost a few of MPG, but ran like a Swiss watch.
I'm looking to do the same swap with a Holley 2v and wanted to know will the adapter work with the spacer that runs with the heater line? If not what is the issue that prevents that from working?
Spencer Harris this is the one I have, set up was super simple. www.classicautoair.com/product-category/complete-ac-systems/ford-ac-systems/mustang-ac-systems/
Just changing the distributor was a big improvement. I have zero hesitation when I take off now and when I open up the 2 barrel you can definitely feel a different.
How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire. Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)
Is there a reason no one ever seems to take their head to a machine shop and have the intake cut and welded for a 2 barrel instead of using the stupid 2-into-1 adapter?
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
How can you show us, all your incredible work and not take the car for a drive, to see if you notice any hp gain? Abyway great video, very thorough and helpful. Much appreciated!!! 👍
Thank you for the video, you made it look so easy and your explanations and descriptions were great!
Denis Gauthier thank you sir!
Thanks for showing in RUclips, I learned a lot from you. I am working on swap the carburetor on 66 mustang to weber.I run to the same sit back,linkage and air cleaner.
Great video. Makes me remember the fun I had with my 65 Mustang with an i6.
Reminds me of the 68 stang I had in the late 80's. I put the Offenhauser 3 singles on it with Hooker duel exhaust Mallory duel point and the biggest cam that Iskey made for it. The thing sounded so mean. Not very fast but it sure did make everyone guess what was under the hood. Good times.
Excellent work! I wish I knew about those parts when I had my 6cyl Mustang.
Thanks so much man. This helps a lot. I’m doing the same thing for my mustang
Great info. I will be doing the same conversion soon. Imo the old six is cool to see. Like the old station wagons we hated but can’t find any longer.
Thanks for your help, I finally got it to fire and run, I gotta hook my vacuum Advance hose up so it won't stall when I let off the gas.
Thank you so much for the video. I am about to do the same carb switch and I really appreciate all of the information here, especially the air filter height concerns using this carb and adapters.
Thanks i got same 66 mustang and pricing everything together i was going to go with the Duraspark 2 distributor set up which require a ignition module and some mod to the harness I did not know about that HEI distributor which is way cheaper option and easier set up...if you ever get time do a follow up video on how you tune the carb?
AutoRays Garage glad my video helped, some of the distributors out there are over $300. As for timing the carb, I just went by the instructions that came with it. I really haven’t gotten into tuning jets and stuff.
Dude this helps so much
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the info. Wondering about the transmission vacuum line? Did not see it hooked up. Transmission vacuum line transports vacuum to seamlessly shift gears when needed/ I think it goes to the vaccum modulator. The line goes over the top of the trans, attached to a manifold vacuum source. If you have a port on the intake manifold, that would be a place to attach it. I also have a 66 200cc l6 A/T
I have a manual transmission on mine, but you can still have vacuum on the intake manifold.
Thanks for the info
Jason, great video. Very helpful. Can you tell me if you had to make adjustments to the carburetor, or did it run well as it was installed. Thanks
J C after the car was at running temperature, I had to set the idle spreed and idle mixture screw. The next morning when it was cold, I set the idle speed for the choke. The carburetor came with instructions to do all of it very simple
Jason, thank you so much for the video. Is the air cleaner clearance issue a problem because you used the adapter vice milling the head for the 1v/2v conversion?
If I would have found this kit while I was rebuilding my motor, I would have found someone to mill the intake. But you have to use the adapter if you don’t mill it. That’s why I had to use a small air filter so it wouldn’t hit my hood when closed.
So I should be done my install today, I have one line I am not sure where it goes. Its on the driver's side behind the valve cover and goes underneath the car towards the transmission on vacuum modulator i think
Dennis Valora only like I can think you referring to was the vacuum advance line, I just replaced it with a new rubber one.
Great video!
What kind of mpg can be expected from the 200 with automatic trans in first gen Stang?
I have a 3 speed, and I get 17mpg with this conversion in the summer running my A/C
I want to put that in my 61 Comet , I have 68 200 in it and T5.
Great video Jason - thanks! Now that it has been a few years, how is everything working? Anything you would do different? I am tired of fussing with the 1100 so will most likely do this conversion soon.
Only thing I would have done different was have the intake
milled out so the adapter plate sat lower when I had the engine rebuilt. Other than that it works great, have not had to touch it since I put it in.
could have went to the stator wire on the alternator. so when the key is on engine off choke wont heat up till engine is started
U think I would still have to change the distributor if I have the electric petronix ignitor in there already?
How did that work for you? Are you satisfied with the results? I'm in the same position.
Nice set up, Jason! What jets are you running and at what altitude? Thanks for sharing that info if you can.
The paperwork that comes with the carb tells me which ones, but I never looked because it ran good from the beginning
Great video, I really like how it turned out. I am going to get a carburator for my car as well, but I wanted to know how to install the distributor. can you give me some pointers? Ive never done this. Thanks in advance...
Con Fran Aprenderan I didn’t think about doing the video until after I already installed the distributor, wish I would have. Take your #1 spark plug out and turn your crank to TDS on compression side. Once that is done you can take your distributor cap off and look at where your rotor is positioned. Pull the old one out, and install the new one distributor and make sure the new rotor is pointing in the same position. Put the bolt back in but don’t tighten it up. Start the car and adjust your timing then tighten up the bolt. Good to go. Lots of videos on RUclips to help you out. Good luck.
Were there power gains or loss of fuel economy. Just wondering if you're better off?
Hey, Jason. I just bought the kit, but the link for the distributor doesn't yield any results. Do you happen to have a part number I could reference? Thank you and thanks the video too. Very informative. I appreciate your time.
I did this 2 years ago, looks like they discontinued it. Maybe try and give them a call Monday.
Question when u put the new distributor on, how did u identify the order of the plugs?. I have the point of tbe distributor pointing at cylinder 1 but not sure what 2,3,4,5,6 are on the distributor cap
Firing order on a 200 CID is 1-5-3-6-2-4.
How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)
@@argaknot
I just put the Dui in along with the Weber 32/36 swap. It was a pain to get that dizzy to drop in buy finally got it. I think its always the sloppy oil pump shaft that makes it difficult. Rebuilt thr 200 with 1.5& 1.75 intake/exhaust valves. 264/274 Clay Cam. Bored. 030 over with flat top pistons. Took .090 off of head for more compression. She runs and sounds great with the dual open headers but still not putting out enough power. You mentioned providing the CORRECT JETTING to get the Weber to run better. DO YOU HAVE THAT INFO ??
Great video. Need to order the air filter for the Weber. And were does the line go from the PVC valve hose ?? Does it hook up to thr carb ??
What jetting to use on a l28 engine
Hey there my name is Nick from California, your video was helpful. I have a 1961 Ford Ranchero 144 in-line six. When you get the two barrel carburetor kit from Vintageinlines does it come with the spacers and adapters in the kit or do I have to buy that separately?
Comes with everything but the air cleaner
Ok cool thanks for the response and info!
Hey, where did you run the tach wire from the HEI distributor? Running the hot wire from the old coil to the HEI "Bat" makes sense, but my 1966 mustang does not have a tach in the dash. Thanks.
I don’t have a tach in my car, so no wire is attached, Just power.
@@argaknot thank you. So I have the carb, regulator and the hei distributor hooked up like you have the in video. Pretty sure everything is hooked up. Ran the e choke wire from the old hot for the relay. Tried running the hot wire from multiple places for the hei dizzy. Heater blower, relay near battery, a few wires I traced from ignition switch. First few times I tried to fire it up sounded like it wanted to now just turning engine over and no start. Even had little bit of smoke out of carb like combustion was happening. Maybe no spark now? I in line fuel filter near the carb is getting fuel. Maybe the firing order?
Check for firing order or of your distributor I 180° out. Take your #1 spark plug out and turn it over until you are a TDS on the compression stroke. Then make sure the rotor is at you #1 spark plug wire
@@argaknot thanks. I don’t have a timing gun so I took out #1 plug and stuck a ball of paper near the hole. Tried to turn it over and when the paper ball shot out I marked the rotor position for #1. Replaced the cap keeping #1 plug wire at that location and replace the others in the firing order. Still not turning over. I have the HEI dizzy wired to a key on hot wire coming from the firewall.
@@argaknot what do you mean by 180 degrees out?
Where did you plug the c4 transmission vacuum lineup up too?
I have a 3 speed manual transmission
What length is the rod from the carb bracket to the original gas pedal rod. It looks about 6 inches?
32/36 weber is progressive linkage carb??
Bought the kit and I can’t even figure it out
Would you say the time and money spent makes the 6 a better driver/performer?
Goodstuff Betterstuff I definitely have more power with the 2v carb, but if I wasn’t having so many issues with my 1v carb I probably wouldn’t have spent the money on the carb but upgraded the brakes.
Jason Bouteiller I did the front disc swap from a Torino. I recommend that upgrade. I also did a split header with an X pipe through quiet mufflers. Car runs fine for now so I’ll sleep on the carb for now. Keep up the good work, Thanks for the reply.
How does the performance and economy compare to the old set up,I currently have the single barrel strongburg, would like to do this on a 67 falcon ute Australian version
I have a lot more power, and runs much smoother. I was having so manny issues with the 1v carb that it was a must. As for fuel economy it almost the same. I did put air conditioning in and that takes more fuel to run but with temperatures over 100° here its worth it..
Quick question I did everything u did in the install but I can't get it to fire. The distributor didn't come marked what 1 through 6. Any tips
Dennis first, make sure you have spark, you can do this by pulling your #1 spark plug out plug your wire back in and turn the car over you should see good spark. If you have spark, bring your timing to too dead center (TDS) and take off your distributor cap where your roster is pointing is your #1 should be and then follow your firing order in the direction the rotor turns when cranking the envy over, I think it’s clockwise and it should start. Then it’s just a matter of timing it.
Hey Jason is that a small log or a large log you have?
Mine was a small
What spacer size did you with for the adapter i notice theres two of them on vintage inlines theres a 1.50 and 1.75
Depends on your car. Take your carburetor off and measure the intake hole, that will let you know what size you need to order.
on the distributor could you use a pertronix kit or hot spark instead of changing it out?
ralph mccormick I’m pretty sure Matt at vintage inline said yes you could. Call or email him to be sure. +1 (586) 663-1966
@@argaknot thanks i will
@@ralphmccormick1940
The Pertronix is good, I have it...
But running that setup on manifold vacuum instead of port made all the difference in the world on my car.
Night & Day...lost a few of MPG, but ran like a Swiss watch.
I'm looking to do the same swap with a Holley 2v and wanted to know will the adapter work with the spacer that runs with the heater line? If not what is the issue that prevents that from working?
Thomas Westphalen I’m not familiar with Holley carbs, best thing to do is contact Matt at vintage inline. 586-663-1966
Which AC setup do you have? I tried finding where you said it but no luck. Do you have a link to the model?
Spencer Harris this is the one I have, set up was super simple.
www.classicautoair.com/product-category/complete-ac-systems/ford-ac-systems/mustang-ac-systems/
Hi, how much performance enhancement did these changes give you?
Just changing the distributor was a big improvement. I have zero hesitation when I take off now and when I open up the 2 barrel you can definitely feel a different.
What size of cj pony air cleaner?
www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-air-cleaner-without-logo-oval-black-mustang-2v-4v-1965-1973/p/AC15/
Just curious, why does changing to this carb require a different distributor?
Keith Mouser fordsix.com/archive/www.classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.html
Can you tell me the spark plug order from hei to engine thanks
153624 clockwise , it doesn’t change.
How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)
@@argaknot thanks 🙏 I fig it out but that is for getting back to me
Get rid of the Fram filter.
Where is your fuel filter?
Just behind my carb, between the fuel regulator and carb. You can see in the end of the video
What parts did u use for this project
Complete parts list with links is in the description of the video.
So I should be done my install today, however what did you do with the line on the passenger side coming from underneath the car?
I t looks like it go to trans
what was the size of your studs?
2 inch
Is there a reason no one ever seems to take their head to a machine shop and have the intake cut and welded for a 2 barrel instead of using the stupid 2-into-1 adapter?
You are better off slicing of the old intake manifold and welding on an adaptor plate