I did a Holley 390 cfm 4 barrel upgrade with a dual Offenhauser intake. It made a world of difference in the power.Gas mileage went up about 1 to 2 miles per gallon.1979 Ford F100 Custom 4.9 big .6. 3 on the tree.A real screamer now.
I've always wondered how the Weber would do on a 300. The 32/36 is a progressive, so most throttle is on the first barrel, saving torque and fuel economy, with the second kicking in once the throttle is pressed down far enough.
update- 8/24/22. The bronco is still running strong with the 2 barrel. It has since been retired from a daily driver to a weekend cruiser. It now has a lift kit and 33 inch tires. So unfortunately, I was never able to get any real data on fuel mileage. From what I can tell though through the butt dyno, it seems to have lost some low end torque but gained some power at higher rpm. As mentioned in the video, the restrictive stock intake is going to eliminate most if any improvement the 2 barrel would offer. Next mod is to update the intake.
@@crissy7976 the carb changed the power range. The bigger the cfm typically the higher the rpm is for peak power. For example. Putting a 750 Holley on your small block will get you power at 3/4 throttle or more but you can barely let out on the clutch without killing it Putting a 500-550 cfm gives you all the low end torque but reaches peak power at a lower rpm. That's what the 2 barrel essentially did here.
I wonder if the cap screws holding down the adapter are messing with mixture distribution at low rpm but more than that the exit hole from the adapter is hard edged , its not radiused and that is gona create turbulence , u can ether cut a 45* on there (like a 2 angle v/v seat ) or radius it , i would def try that , also i think 1" spacer between carb and adaptor would help too but mainly radius that inlet...
I'm currently running a 1 barrel aftermarket carburator ( Daytona CHV) From Daytona Auto Parts Co..... And though ive been told " It isn't recommended for such a new vehicle " it works well enough ..... Thank God I live in Georgia = No Yearly Emissions test for vehicles that are 25 years old and older
I had an 86 F150 with a one barrel carb I6 and would always be thinking of a 2 barrel Holley conversion for better tuneability. The original carb on the I6 was a stubborn starting sombitch, even after rebuilding it, it would still take a million cranks to get her going. Once it fired up it ran great and would start better when warm.
I have found that unfortunately it just isn't worth rebuilding old carbs unless they are rare or in good shape to start. When you start dealing with worn throttle bushings, corrosion, missing parts or clogged passages, etc. You'll be chasing your tail trying to figure out why it still runs bad after a rebuild. As wrong as it sounds, I've had better luck with cheap amazon carburetors right out of the box than I have with carefully rebuilt originals. I would love to try out one of the holley efi systems in the future and compare how it stacks up against the 2 barrel upgrade.
My 81 econoline i6 had the same issue, hard start cold but fired right up when warm. Ended up being compression issue. I ended up swapping the inline 6 with a mercedes om617 turbo diesel and man what a difference. I’m working on the gearing because I’d like to not be screaming going down the freeway at 70mph. But the 3 on the tree is great. I still have my inline 6 and it’s on the engine stand getting overhauled
@@mikecorleone6797 i just picked up a n '82 Ford E-150 with an 4.9L i6 with a C6 transmission. I am looking at doing a complete overhaul to motor and tranny. I was hoping to figure out a way to do a body lift (possibly with a Gantry Lift, maybe) so that way i could go over frame/prime paint, but to also hoping to simplify access removing motor/tranny. How did you remove motor from your project?....through grill removal or interior or ??
@@lynchcreekmuzzy5759 it’s very easy to remove from the grill. I’ve done vans like that before where we lift the body.. it’s way more effort than it’s worth. But if you absolutely want to do it that way the easiest way without a lift is build a double A frame out of 4x4 wood so you can lift the front and rear of the van body evenly.. then roll the frame out from under it.. but keep in mind realigning the body to the frame is a pain in the ass if you don’t know what you’re doing…
I would like to see the EFI intake with a carburetor on the dyno top please. That EFI intake has great looking long runners. Ought to make great midrange,.
Nice bronco thank you for the video I'm working on my 1975 f250 I paid 50 for the title got the truck for free and told the guy seeing how it's a running truck I would give him 50 for the title he didn't want the money
Sorry to change the subject but you mentioned upgrading your Bronco 4spd to 5spd. Mind sharing what trans you went with and was it direct bolt in? I have an 87 Bronco 4.9L, 4spd that could benefit greatly from this upgrade. Was hoping either the M5OD or ZF were direct swap?
I have done both swaps. The m5od into the bronco and a zf5 into a 91 f150. You can’t beat the reliability of the zf but the m5od was much easier to install. I might have a video further back on the channel that discusses what I did. Basically I had to drill new holes in the frame further back for the cross member since the m5 and zf are longer. I Used a front driveshaft out of the truck I got the trans from and I had a local shop shorten and balance the rear driveshaft in the bronco and used a compatible driveshaft for the f150. I reused the 4x4 shifter from the 4 speed to work with the original bronco transfer case with some slight modification to make it work. Otherwise, it’s a direct bolt in. The swap took a day to complete, excluding the driveshaft. If you have any further questions. I could do a walk around video explaining the swap process sometime
Not sure if you noticed it but... There's a 3rd hole in your intake manifold(towards front of truck) that the spacer did not cover or line up with. Easily seen in the video. It is the exhaust feed to the old EGR. That's why it has black exhaust crud in it. If it is sitting there, half-exposed, do you not now have an active exhaust leak blowing out from under you carb spacer? I tapped mine and screwed an iron pipe plug into it to block off the exhaust when I deleted my EGR. Could this be some of the cause of your low-end torque loss? Just a thought.
If you could make a video talking about how you did the tranny swap in the Branco that’d be sweet. I got a 82 f150 with the 300 and wanna put in a 5 speed
I don't have a list per say but all major components can be found with a quick Amazon or eBay search. Everything was sourced cheaply to prove the concept works
Do you feel with this change (original carb to motorcraft 2 barrel) that the car run faster, run with more hp and torque or What would be the benefit you felt when making this change? thanks
In all honesty we did this to see if we could. Also we weren't having any luck finding a reliable aftermarket 1 barrel carb however I did have good luck with the 2100's in the past. It also made it that much easier to swap on a 2 barrel intake in the future for real power gains if we ever save up the money for it.
Everything used was purchased off of Amazon or eBay. You may have to go to a hardware store for bolts. I’m my case I have a garage and keep well stocked with assortments so I didn’t need to in my case.
I like your thinking on the whole conversion. Especially useing the two taped pair of holes you used to bolt down the accel. linkage. One not so like...the motor is form here...which makes it 300 Cubic Inches. The foreign jibberish #'s...that is for foreigners. Why spoil your otherwise excellrnt vid ??
@@petersipp5247 these engines are referred to by both 4.9 litre and 300 cubic inch. I just included both. You'll find earlier 80's and the 70's models were called 300's but from the mid 80's onward through the end of the run even Ford themselves seems to call them 4.9's. Yes Ford is an American manufacturer but let's face it. They have been using metric hardware for nearly 40 years now in one application or another. Whether we like it or not, the days of a vehicle being developed, assembled and distributed in the same country are pretty much gone.
The first tank revealed a less than impressive 10 mpg. However, this was with towing a loaded car trailer, driving 60-65 and mostly hills. Hoping we can get some normal driving in and see those numbers improve.
Actually I'm not sure what a choke pull down does...... But I do not have one on my 1980 300 motor at this time.... I finally found the accelerator kick down and adjusted it way too far out.... It doesn't kick down anymore
I don't recall any computer on our 85. However, we did remove all emissions equipment and wire up the hei. Plugging any vacuum ports on the factory carburetor we could.
from amazon: copy and paste these names into the search bar -Mota Performance A40220 Carburetor Adapter Kit -NENKUTEN 2 Barrel Carburetor 2100 -Chrome Air Cleaner, 10 Inch, 4 Barrel Carb. these might not be the exact brands I bought when I did this swap, it has been awhile and I can't remember, but they should work to get your swap complete. I would suggest not going with the cheapest components if money isn't an issue. You will be much happier in the long run with higher quality parts doing this swap. The rest of the materials you need such as electrical connectors and wires for the choke and metal to make the throttle linkage bracket can be sourced at most local hardware stores.
Any issues with your carb I’ve been having some high idle sticking and not coming on when u set the choke or not coming all the way off of high idle and also do the efi manifolds help any
I’ve run into issues with the choke sticking on multiple occasions. It comes down to the poor build quality of these cheap carbs. I’ve found getting a higher dollar example usually solves most of the intermittent issues I run across.
We ended up having to do a couple additional steps that I think may help. We were running into bogging and stalling issues. It kept acting like it was running lean. After opening it up we found that the jets included in the new carb were too small. Way too small. Stepped them up with the smallest drill bit I had and it ran 100x’s better. Much more power and smoother running. One a separate vehicle I purchased one of these carbs and it ran terrible. Opening it up and the float Level was off. So badly that there was hardly any fuel in the bowl. Adjusted it and it ran fine after. Just a couple of things to check. They are cheap carbs and unfortunately aren’t ready to go out of the box often.
We purchased the cheapest hei we could find for a 300 6 off of Amazon. Looking back I would have spent the extra money and gone with a name brand unit.
Easiest ignition system out there to wire. All you need is to find a wire in your harness that has 12 Volts With the key on. Connect that to the power on the hei and you’re done. Literally takes one wire to run it. You can use the stock power wire for your original coil as long as it does not have a built in resistor. But again the voltage at the wire will tell you that
If you’re talking about the kick down cable or rod, this doesn’t have one since I have a manual transmission. If you have an auto that’s another obstacle you’ll have to tackle
I believe I just advanced it until it pinged under acceleration then back it off slightly. Tested again. If it has difficulty cranking then back it off a few more. If it starts easily then leave it. Not correct but gets you down the road. I also run my vacuum advance off of the ported vacuum source.
I did a Holley 390 cfm 4
barrel upgrade with a dual Offenhauser intake. It made a world of difference in the power.Gas mileage went up about 1 to 2 miles per gallon.1979 Ford F100 Custom 4.9 big .6. 3 on the tree.A real screamer now.
Thanks for sharing
I've always wondered how the Weber would do on a 300. The 32/36 is a progressive, so most throttle is on the first barrel, saving torque and fuel economy, with the second kicking in once the throttle is pressed down far enough.
There is a guy who offers this Weber in Rustenburg ,South Africa. De Wet Momberg is his name. Gets great results.
update- 8/24/22. The bronco is still running strong with the 2 barrel. It has since been retired from a daily driver to a weekend cruiser. It now has a lift kit and 33 inch tires. So unfortunately, I was never able to get any real data on fuel mileage. From what I can tell though through the butt dyno, it seems to have lost some low end torque but gained some power at higher rpm.
As mentioned in the video, the restrictive stock intake is going to eliminate most if any improvement the 2 barrel would offer. Next mod is to update the intake.
Hey man I really need your help I got everything else but what was the part number on the adapter plate you got
@@com180 don't remember the exact one I got but I'm pretty sure its was the Trans-Dapt 2044 adapter. sells on amazon.
i wonder on what (upgrade) it actually lost the bottom end ? Exhaust, Hei or Carb ?
@@crissy7976 the carb changed the power range. The bigger the cfm typically the higher the rpm is for peak power.
For example. Putting a 750 Holley on your small block will get you power at 3/4 throttle or more but you can barely let out on the clutch without killing it
Putting a 500-550 cfm gives you all the low end torque but reaches peak power at a lower rpm.
That's what
the 2 barrel essentially did here.
I wonder if the cap screws holding down the adapter are messing with mixture distribution at low rpm but more than that the exit hole from the adapter is hard edged , its not radiused and that is gona create turbulence , u can ether cut a 45* on there (like a 2 angle v/v seat ) or radius it , i would def try that , also i think 1" spacer between carb and adaptor would help too but mainly radius that inlet...
I'm currently running a 1 barrel aftermarket carburator ( Daytona CHV) From Daytona Auto Parts Co..... And though ive been told " It isn't recommended for such a new vehicle " it works well enough ..... Thank God I live in Georgia = No Yearly Emissions test for vehicles that are 25 years old and older
Nice installation
Thanks!
Another improvement would be to add an air intake tube to have cooler air to the carb.
I had an 86 F150 with a one barrel carb I6 and would always be thinking of a 2 barrel Holley conversion for better tuneability. The original carb on the I6 was a stubborn starting sombitch, even after rebuilding it, it would still take a million cranks to get her going. Once it fired up it ran great and would start better when warm.
I have found that unfortunately it just isn't worth rebuilding old carbs unless they are rare or in good shape to start. When you start dealing with worn throttle bushings, corrosion, missing parts or clogged passages, etc. You'll be chasing your tail trying to figure out why it still runs bad after a rebuild.
As wrong as it sounds, I've had better luck with cheap amazon carburetors right out of the box than I have with carefully rebuilt originals.
I would love to try out one of the holley efi systems in the future and compare how it stacks up against the 2 barrel upgrade.
My 81 econoline i6 had the same issue, hard start cold but fired right up when warm. Ended up being compression issue. I ended up swapping the inline 6 with a mercedes om617 turbo diesel and man what a difference. I’m working on the gearing because I’d like to not be screaming going down the freeway at 70mph. But the 3 on the tree is great. I still have my inline 6 and it’s on the engine stand getting overhauled
@@mikecorleone6797 i just picked up a n '82 Ford E-150 with an 4.9L i6 with a C6 transmission. I am looking at doing a complete overhaul to motor and tranny. I was hoping to figure out a way to do a body lift (possibly with a Gantry Lift, maybe) so that way i could go over frame/prime paint, but to also hoping to simplify access removing motor/tranny.
How did you remove motor from your project?....through grill removal or interior or ??
@@lynchcreekmuzzy5759 it’s very easy to remove from the grill. I’ve done vans like that before where we lift the body.. it’s way more effort than it’s worth. But if you absolutely want to do it that way the easiest way without a lift is build a double A frame out of 4x4 wood so you can lift the front and rear of the van body evenly.. then roll the frame out from under it.. but keep in mind realigning the body to the frame is a pain in the ass if you don’t know what you’re doing…
@@mikecorleone6797 I have a om617 hooked to a overdrive five speed if you know anyone interested
I would like to see the EFI intake with a carburetor on the dyno top please. That EFI intake has great looking long runners. Ought to make great midrange,.
Nice bronco thank you for the video I'm working on my 1975 f250 I paid 50 for the title got the truck for free and told the guy seeing how it's a running truck I would give him 50 for the title he didn't want the money
Sorry to change the subject but you mentioned upgrading your Bronco 4spd to 5spd. Mind sharing what trans you went with and was it direct bolt in? I have an 87 Bronco 4.9L, 4spd that could benefit greatly from this upgrade. Was hoping either the M5OD or ZF were direct swap?
I have done both swaps. The m5od into the bronco and a zf5 into a 91 f150. You can’t beat the reliability of the zf but the m5od was much easier to install. I might have a video further back on the channel that discusses what I did. Basically I had to drill new holes in the frame further back for the cross member since the m5 and zf are longer. I Used a front driveshaft out of the truck I got the trans from and I had a local shop shorten and balance the rear driveshaft in the bronco and used a compatible driveshaft for the f150. I reused the 4x4 shifter from the 4 speed to work with the original bronco transfer case with some slight modification to make it work. Otherwise, it’s a direct bolt in. The swap took a day to complete, excluding the driveshaft.
If you have any further questions. I could do a walk around video explaining the swap process sometime
@@junkinjames6345 Thanks very much for this.
Not sure if you noticed it but... There's a 3rd hole in your intake manifold(towards front of truck) that the spacer did not cover or line up with. Easily seen in the video. It is the exhaust feed to the old EGR. That's why it has black exhaust crud in it. If it is sitting there, half-exposed, do you not now have an active exhaust leak blowing out from under you carb spacer? I tapped mine and screwed an iron pipe plug into it to block off the exhaust when I deleted my EGR. Could this be some of the cause of your low-end torque loss? Just a thought.
We had previously deleted the EGR. There is no exhaust leak from that location nor vacuum leak.
Try adjusting the timing a few degrees.
I advanced the timing some from the stock specs and it helped to a certain degree.
If you could make a video talking about how you did the tranny swap in the Branco that’d be sweet. I got a 82 f150 with the 300 and wanna put in a 5 speed
sure thing. I'll get it made!
Do you have a list of parts you installed???and absolutely beautiful work!!!
I don't have a list per say but all major components can be found with a quick Amazon or eBay search. Everything was sourced cheaply to prove the concept works
Did you use T45 transmission?
SOO that bronco came stock with a 1 barrel carb in 1985?
hard to believe
Yes oddly enough. The v8s went to efi already but the online 6 stayed carbureted until 86 I believe
Sure thing working on a 85 f150 1 barrel carb
Thanks for the information, do you have a source for the thick gasket. I can only find a thinner felt gasket.
Did you upgrade the module in your Hei or are you running the module it came with?
@@frankhall1383 just the cheapie module that came in it.
Still using that carb? I just got mine today hoping it will last till i fix my holley 4412
Yep, still running the cheap 2 barrel
Do you feel with this change (original carb to motorcraft 2 barrel) that the car run faster, run with more hp and torque or What would be the benefit you felt when making this change? thanks
In all honesty we did this to see if we could. Also we weren't having any luck finding a reliable aftermarket 1 barrel carb however I did have good luck with the 2100's in the past. It also made it that much easier to swap on a 2 barrel intake in the future for real power gains if we ever save up the money for it.
Great Job .... Where should I buy those parts ?
Everything used was purchased off of Amazon or eBay. You may have to go to a hardware store for bolts. I’m my case I have a garage and keep well stocked with assortments so I didn’t need to in my case.
Thanks a Bunch !!!
Nice
I like your thinking on the whole conversion. Especially useing the two taped pair of holes you used to bolt down the accel. linkage. One not so like...the motor is form here...which makes it 300 Cubic Inches.
The foreign jibberish #'s...that is for foreigners. Why spoil your otherwise excellrnt vid ??
@@petersipp5247 these engines are referred to by both 4.9 litre and 300 cubic inch. I just included both. You'll find earlier 80's and the 70's models were called 300's but from the mid 80's onward through the end of the run even Ford themselves seems to call them 4.9's.
Yes Ford is an American manufacturer but let's face it. They have been using metric hardware for nearly 40 years now in one application or another. Whether we like it or not, the days of a vehicle being developed, assembled and distributed in the same country are pretty much gone.
Any changes in fuel economy
The first tank revealed a less than impressive 10 mpg. However, this was with towing a loaded car trailer, driving 60-65 and mostly hills. Hoping we can get some normal driving in and see those numbers improve.
How important is a choke pull down ? My 1 barrel doesnt even have one
Choke pull down? Do you mean kicking it down off high idle?
Actually I'm not sure what a choke pull down does...... But I do not have one on my 1980 300 motor at this time.... I finally found the accelerator kick down and adjusted it way too far out.... It doesn't kick down anymore
Did you get rid of the EEC-4 computer when you originally swapped distributors and back to a non feed back carb?
I don't recall any computer on our 85. However, we did remove all emissions equipment and wire up the hei. Plugging any vacuum ports on the factory carburetor we could.
Outstanding videos could You leave a link onthe purchaseof partes,carburator,adaptar & spacer thanks ,Joe.
from amazon:
copy and paste these names into the search bar
-Mota Performance A40220 Carburetor Adapter Kit
-NENKUTEN 2 Barrel Carburetor 2100
-Chrome Air Cleaner, 10 Inch, 4 Barrel Carb.
these might not be the exact brands I bought when I did this swap, it has been awhile and I can't remember, but they should work to get your swap complete.
I would suggest not going with the cheapest components if money isn't an issue. You will be much happier in the long run with higher quality parts doing this swap. The rest of the materials you need such as electrical connectors and wires for the choke and metal to make the throttle linkage bracket can be sourced at most local hardware stores.
Any issues with your carb I’ve been having some high idle sticking and not coming on when u set the choke or not coming all the way off of high idle and also do the efi manifolds help any
I’ve run into issues with the choke sticking on multiple occasions. It comes down to the poor build quality of these cheap carbs. I’ve found getting a higher dollar example usually solves most of the intermittent issues I run across.
And yes the efi split header made a big difference in my case
Can you put a link to the adapter plate? I ended up with the wrong one
Look up (a40220 adapter) on Google. IT should take you right to it.
@JunkinJames thanks man. the intake side bolt holes on the one I had were too close together. It looks exactly like the adapter you have though
Id put loctite on the two spacer bolts
@@nathandevine552 several years of daily use and they have yet to back out.
@@junkinjames6345 just a suggestion as I've seen a few engine failures from injested hardware
@@nathandevine552 I will agree with you that it's good extra protection.
Just did this same swap on my '84 f150, and hei as well. Can't get the carb tuned for shit. Seeing how smooth yours is I'm thinking I got a lemon.
We ended up having to do a couple additional steps that I think may help. We were running into bogging and stalling issues. It kept acting like it was running lean. After opening it up we found that the jets included in the new carb were too small. Way too small. Stepped them up with the smallest drill bit I had and it ran 100x’s better. Much more power and smoother running.
One a separate vehicle I purchased one of these carbs and it ran terrible. Opening it up and the float Level was off. So badly that there was hardly any fuel in the bowl. Adjusted it and it ran fine after.
Just a couple of things to check. They are cheap carbs and unfortunately aren’t ready to go out of the box often.
That could be. Had a 77 LTD II 351 that I converted to 600 CFM Holley. Fourth one finally tested positive. This was almost 50 years ago
Could be a vacuum leak. I had one around my carb and it would barely respond to the idle screw.
Also what hei did you go with? Looking to do this on my 86 f150 to eliminate the feedback system
We purchased the cheapest hei we could find for a 300 6 off of Amazon. Looking back I would have spent the extra money and gone with a name brand unit.
Is the GM HEI a easy install ? I mean how would I wire it up ?
Easiest ignition system out there to wire. All you need is to find a wire in your harness that has 12 Volts With the key on. Connect that to the power on the hei and you’re done. Literally takes one wire to run it. You can use the stock power wire for your original coil as long as it does not have a built in resistor. But again the voltage at the wire will tell you that
Saw a choke pull down on other people's carbs..... Guess You haven't encountered those
If you’re talking about the kick down cable or rod, this doesn’t have one since I have a manual transmission. If you have an auto that’s another obstacle you’ll have to tackle
Junk.
Finding a Motorcraft 2100 is difficult locally. 😰
That’s odd. I’ve ordered dozens of the Amazon versions. Had them in less than a week.
What is your base timing you are running
I believe I just advanced it until it pinged under acceleration then back it off slightly. Tested again. If it has difficulty cranking then back it off a few more. If it starts easily then leave it.
Not correct but gets you down the road.
I also run my vacuum advance off of the ported vacuum source.
@@junkinjames6345 oh ok I’ve got mine set to the factory 10 btdc with a light but I don’t know if that is enough or to much with the hei
About 14° they start super easy and idles excellent. 36° total mechanical
Meanwhile ... Did You buy Your 2 barrel on Amazon or Ebay ???? And price please
I ordered the same carb but a different adapter plate. The carb was on Amazon and it was around $80 to $100
Where did you get the adapter plate?
amazon
@@junkinjames6345 what are the part numbers For everything you got so I get the same exact thing