I remember the IDI's when they first appeared in our early medics and grass trucks. Incredible difference when the technology was improved and turbos were added.
I had 2 7.3L IDIs, a 93' and a 94'. Both were solid engines. I could achieve 22 mpg with one of them. I replaced the injectors and glow plugs in both with my poor mechanical skills. I had serpentine belt issues with both. It seemed like I had to replace a serpentine belt every 15,000 miles. Tensioner pulleys were also a problem. I have scars on my right hand to prove it. I loved my 7.3s. They cranked every time, the hauled me around the country, and they did it with low fuel cost and low maintenance cost. If I could own a 3rd vehicle now for fun, it'd be a 7.3L.
That’s not low cost My tdi swapped 1981 vw rabbit pickup makes as much power as your 7.3 Except it weighs less than half. It gets 75mpg And is twice as fast. THAT is a cheap trip around the country. 22mpg I coulda done every drive you did 3 times and still have lots of money left over.
Remember boys, when people say: "I'd rather be cummin than power-stroking", say: "She ain't a power-stroke, and at least I can last longer." These trucks are pretty rare and are basically bulletproof, 200K and pulling strong and all stock.
ShadowKnight7171 2 million never rebuilt all original 1983 6.9 idi... automatic used and abused its whole life 😉 replace the injectors and glow plugs every 100k miles
I'm looking at an 89 7.3 for 2500.. it has some issues but runs and very little rust. Would u buy it for 2500? How expensive are they to have worked on
I wish I would’ve found this right when I got my van. Every single thing you said I had a problem with Ben had an extensive learning. About these engines with each of those problems. I would’ve watched this in the beginning I would’ve known all of it, thank you for the great video
Thanks for the introduction to this particular vehicle. I just bought one for 1900. Runs and drives great. The shifting is a little sloppy- hoping I can tighten it up a little. Ordered a tech manual first off. It will be here Monday. Oil is black. Not sure it's ever been changed. 68500 on it. Wiring has been molested by amateurs installing sound system as well as trying to repair things. Tanks won't switch- may be it's just the dash switch. Could be a wire knocked loose. I will be watching more of your videos. You definitely are knowledgeable. Great info source! Thank you very much for taking the time to share with others. That's what life's about.
Black oil is normal ... new oil will turn black almost instantly in these trucks. On the side rail frame just back from drivers door is the Tank selector valve ... box with tank lines going in I had a spring jam inside the box not allowing it to open. There is also an electric plug to the box. If you need a new box I've got one I removed... still working.
1983-84 6.9s used the exact same direct-drive starter motor, the Delco-Remy 27MT, as the 1982-88 Chevrolet/GMC C/K trucks equipped with the 6.2 diesel.
Yeah, I check my oil about once every 2-3wks. It does use a little oil, but there’s very little to no blowby at all, so it either evaporates it through the CCV, or it just uses a tad bit, I will say that she starts well at 30 degrees/freezing & she started on diesel down here in Texas during the big freeze no ether at all, just my manual 10second glowplug controller bypass. She started, but since there was no gell addative it took some time to get her to start, but once the IP was warm she idled well until it lost fuel pressure from the tank, so she wouldn’t run after that until everything thawed out. I have an under truck on frame 110GPH electric HolleyBlue fuel pump, been using em for a while & they’re great.
6.9/7.3 liter fords are the best motors on the road. i have a 86 f350 with 640k miles and still pull 10-15k lbs daily. just put a banks sidewinder on my 89 f350, amazing difference. sounds like a semi with the 4 inch pipes. my 84 f250 does have a blown head gasket but no big deal, fix it and go for another 300k. im trying to break a million on my 86. Change your oil every 2500 miles whether or not you think you should, it wont hurt anything, only help you rack up high and happy miles
I’ll have to check out R&D....I have an ‘87 6.9 non turbo, I’m planning on getting it “bulletproofed” with head bolts and adding a turbo. I’m going to try to learn about the performance options out there, and see how many I can use
Don't forget the dual mass flywheel on manual transmission idis they go out at about 80-90000 miles, mine is going out. As for the aftermarket turbo kits I wouldn't go over 7 psi max boost because the NA motors have 21:1 compression and will have problems with too much boost, the factory turbo 7.3 idi have 17:1 compression and stronger rods and rings to deal with the extra cylinder pressure.
I was just trying to cover some of the more beginner information so to speak I know I couldn't cover everything. as for the turbo thou alot of guys have went well beyond 7 on a na motor and the rods hold up quite well ; it's just head studs become a must the higher you go. Thx for the comment
My clutch is fine but the dual mass flywheel is going out. The engine is a Jasper reman with 90000 miles. So either they reused the old flywheel, if they did it probably has about 212,000 miles or it was replaced with the engine then it has 90000 miles on it and is going out. Will be replacing it with another dual mass flywheel.
Great vid. Concise and direct. The only other thing i would have added is that the IP Pumps tend to start getting weak over 200k miles and you need to run a Quality #Diesel specific oil because they hold up to the high ash content generated by diesel engines. Also an oil sample sent to Blackstone labs for analysis will tell you more about the engine then you could hope to know.
One sample is kind of useless for trying to determine some of the wear metals , you need 2 or more to see if anything is going on. If you've got 25ppm of a wear metal on the first test ,and 50ppm on the second you better start looking. But if it's tracking 50ppm over a few samples that might not be any at all, you're looking for percentage increases
I know, I replaced mine when I bought the truck with what was in it, it was also what it called for but I tested them with a 12v battery and they blew, replaced them with motorcraft 12v and that fixed it
I just got my hands on an 86’ 6.9 f250 crank no start project truck, I can get it started on ether but it dies almost instantly so I’m going to watch all your vids and go over the fuel system
1987 was the last year for the 6.9, it had 1/2 diameter head bolts where as 1983 to 1986 had 7/16ths and also in 1987 the 6.9 had a bigger better flowing heads than the previous years and ford Contiued to use the same heads on the 7.3
The heads on the 7.3 IDI were different even from the 1987. Valves were different (harder and it had enlarged valve stem shields) the precombustion chamber is larger on the 7.3 IDI heads. The block was the same, just bored 0.011” over with same stroke achieving the 444 cubic inch displacement from the 6.9L’s 420. Front cover had revisions, they were prone to seepage on the 6.9.
I got really lucky with mine. The older that had my F250 before me loved that truck! He even waxed the door jambs. 1991 F250 lariat. If it had 4wd Id still have it. Great truck.
Thank you for posting this! My uncle ALWAYS rocked these Diesel trucks in the 80's & 90's. 2000's, he went to the newer ones BUT I remember how cool the 1st gen series was. I'm trying to learn all I can about them because I've just purchased my 1st Diesel which is also my 1st 4x4. Is 1987 still considered part of the "1st gen" series...???
@@kevinm.n.5158 it was great. Hard to find parts though. And you best pray nothing in the charging system goes out because all the replacement parts are garbage
We're brothers lol my grandpa's truck engine replacement was from an ambulance also the original engine went out at 94,000 and the engine that was in it originally had a banks turbo but when he got the one out of the ambulance it did not have a turbo on it of course. Still does have it but he kept the turbo in Storage. My air leak in our truck is coming from the tank switch that connects the two of them when you switch them and around the fuel filter it is also leaking.
great video, thanks! what air filter are you using on that engine? good info on the crank case pressure relief. never good to go without what's designed into the engine (at least my thinking). What constitutes a bad fuel injector? Re: fuel pump (gear driven) warnings - THANK YOU. I've made the bone head maneuver of yanking out a idler shaft driven water pump without timing chain on and it was a nightmare getting everything aligned. (not this engine tho). It's my understanding the IDI 7.3L compression is about 25:1 which is why IH/Fordidn't put turbos on this engine - it cause premature wear/failure and some unhappy piston rods. Very happy to hear your reccomendation on the brand/type of glow plug. These are the pearls the laymen can't get anymore by hanging at the shop. (back in the day, i practically grew up in the auto shop, so have at least some horse sense.]Thanks again man! What air filter do you use? I understand the 7.3L has such high compression (25:1 or some insanity). Winds up burning up valves and/or breaking piston rods. Fuel pump removal warning - THANK YOU! I guess, in other words, don't put an aftermarket Turbo kit on the 7.3L. (as I understand it) . Which oil do you use? After researching synthetic oil, i'm sold on synthetic for any IC engine. There are good scientific reasons for this. In short, synthetic guarantees all the oil (oil molecules) have the same properties for multi-vis oils. Distilled dino-oil has a broad range. this is why synthetic "lasts longer".
Thanks for the info, I just purchased a 1988 F250 with the IDI 7.3 diesel non-turbo. I plan on using it as "knock around" truck for household work. It's my first diesel truck. It does have an issue with glow plugs. The glow plugs are not coming on and the dash light indicator is not showing "wait to start" (I know the indicator has power and I took a test light to the glow plug wires to test for power with the key in the start position, none) when I turn the key, I hear a click and it does have a new glow plug relay and new glow plugs. Where should I look to solve the problem? She's old, but since she's not my daily driver and a virtually rust free truck from Nevada, I plan on keeping her a very very long time. Any advice would be great, thanks again for the video info keep up the great work.
@Marshall Davis any 7.3 idi is pretty much worth $2500 if its under 230k miles, look the frame over REAL well, try to spin the drive shafts back and forth, feel the transmission when you drive it, make sure the core support isn't rusted, smell the oil, look at the color of the exhaust.
Mike, nice video. I have a 94 250 IDI turbo. Recently I did some work on my gauge cluster. LEDs and such. I removed the green film on the back of the gauge faces. In doing all of this I had to remove all the indicator needles on the gauges. I was told to take a picture of the gauge locations before dismounting the cluster in order to set them back to where they should be. I did that, except It didn't dawn on me to take a picture of the RMP gauge at idol in order to replace the tach needle where it should be. So my question is, is there any possible way to measure or detect the RPM's from any device under the hood? I know the RPM sending unit is mounted on the timing wheel housing, where it feeds to the tach on the dash, but no one seems to know how to read the RPM's from under the hood. These have no computers like later 7.3 have and everyone is stumped. Sorry for the long explanation but everyone wonders why I would want to verify the RPMs from under the hood. Got any ideas on this? I had to have the tach working to reinstall the dash cluster so guessed at the idol RPMS at about 600. I really would love to know exactly what the true number really is. Thanks so much for any info you can offer.
Well the rpm gauge in and of itself is a simple swappable gauge. Beyond that I know there is aftermarket tach kits I'm sure one could be used as meter so to speak. Very interesting question I haven't encountered that before
@@groundtogreen1140 So far I haven't found a single mechanic that can figure out how to do it. Diesel's not having a distributor I guess makes it impossible to do. In these older rigs, they didn't have the same computer as the later power strokes so to recalibrate the Tach one just has to guess and readjust the tach needle in the gauge and hope for the best. You would think the sending unit placed on the timing gear housing that feeds the tach would send some kind of impulse that could be read on some other kind of device. Do you know what normal warm idol RPM speed is on these engines?
@@johnnyohness6610 late reply but 650-750 rpm roughly is what they run at once warmed up and the high idle solenoid is disengaged. i’d just start it up with the gauge cluster plugged in and with the needle removed and then push the needle onto the shaft of the gauge motor with it pointing to the RPM markers and ball park it. I made the same mistake when doing the cluster on my Expedition but thankfully there i had an OBD scan tool and was able to read it off there.
I don't remember what brand they are, but I do have an aftermarket see of glow plugs in my 6.9 that have been in there for over 10 years now that are far superior to the OEM ones. The oem ones have a very short burn time and even just cycling them a couple times can burn them up, but before my dad passed the truck down to me, he put in some aftermarket set and bypassed the glow plug relay and just wired them to a toggle switch, and you can let them burn for 5-10 minutes without worrying about them burning up. If I can find the brand and part number I'll put it up.
got one of these. 370k miles 5 speed ZF transmission, and the glow plug system and wiring are completely shot. something to throw out there about giving ether to these engines. DO NOT DO IT... unless you have completely disabled the glow plug system. I have to give mine a small shot every morning. and that is all you need. don't spray for more than a split second.
Ether will destroy your engine eventually. Its soooo bad to use on a diesel. You said your wireing for glow plugs was bad. Do you mean the wires are actually bad or that glow plug system just doesn't respond? My glow plug control module gave out, and left the glow plug system completely dead. Rather than spending $200 on a new one, I just wired in a bypass across the glow plug solenoid to a toggle switch in the cab. Even on the coldest days I can hit the toggle for 5 seconds and it fires right up. Just a thought, if you didnt actually mean the wires were chewed up by mice or something.
Hi looking to buy my first diesel I have a chance to buy a 1985 f350 6.9l for 1500 bucks says 67k miles but it’s a company truck so I’m sure it’s rolled over so 167k or 267k maybe? Also it doesn’t have a bed I was going to build a wood deck won’t be hauling anything heavy
Hey Mike your videos are a lot of help I'm having an issue with my IDI overheating after a short drive I've done head gasket and even did the timing for the fuel injection pump and water pump still over heats :(
In my experience the 3 things that cause em to overheat is a clogged rad, a bad fan clutch, or a bad thermostat. If ya do the thermostat go to a dealer get a motorcraft only one. other than that make sure you've what Ive always called bubbling out the rad to release any trapped air pockets
The comment about the coolant isn't entirely true, not all ELC's, or extended life coolants, have an SCA precharge additive that is required for these engines. Most don't come with an SCA precharge so make sure the coolant you select has it unless you just add the additive separately.
I change my coolant quite often in my trucks (particularly the 7.3's) to help battle the cavitation issues. About every 30K, which believe me in tow trucks is OFTEN. They also idle quite a bit, but still, my DD is a 6.9 and it gets changed at 35K or every year, whichever comes first. I've never had a problem with cav.
Have a question... I have a chance at buying a 1987 with 140k and a 7.3 with 77k, no problems, starts right up and seems pretty nice beside the two tone poop color paint job. He wants 2000$, is it a descent price?
I’m looking at buying a 1994 f250 I’m not a ford guy but I’ve only ever heard good things about 7.3idi only has 168k on it said it needs injections for 5800$
I just bought a 1984 f250 with a 6.9 it ran fine when i bought and now it looks like irs starving of fuel, it has fuel on both tanks i think when it swap tanks to see how much i had i most have let some dirt on the line or on that transfer pump, can you show a video on changing fuel lines and tanks would great
Mine is a 85 F-350 W / A 7.3 IDI (used to B 6.9) and she's not getting fuel.. ALOT of "Hands " have been envolved with the motor change.... also my glow plug cabin light no longer shines! I'm lost?
I have an '86 F250 as my Daily. Have had it for about 15 years now. I assume it's a manual tranny (T19 4-speed like mine). BULLET PROOF but not fast because of low gearing (and diesel!). You're pulling a car trailer anyway. Have fun with her and I hope you make lot's of mone! Be safe and welcome to the brotherhood!
the company I work for had a 1987 Ford F 350 stake bed with 7.3 diesel auto trans and lift gate when they junked the vehicle it had 310,000 miles it gave great service.
I just picked up a 89 7.3 idi motorhome, after 2 days and and many readings with multi meter, got the glow system back online still doesnt wanna fire, i have air fuel and compression what am i missing ?
I have one of those cold air intakes that draws air from the front of the engine compartment, but the intake nozzle is tiny, like 1" by 4". The truck is sluggish on towing and I wonder if that is a contributing factor, and if any special care needs to be taken to upgrade to an intake like yours, or if I would risk bogging down the engine or something else unforeseen.
more air definitely might help; one of the biggest power robbers is air restriction on diesels. My uncles 24v actually had lower boost numbers when his filter was clogged.
Cool vid. Great engines. Probably one of the best engines for a SHTF, apocalypse situation. I was thinking of doing a 444 idi for a military hummer. what kinda power and rpm redline are they good for (turbo & non turbo )? If you don't boost to high, are the naturally aspirated pistons a good compression ratio?
7-8 psi is what i would go on a fully stock engine with injector pump mods. u can spent a few grand to get over 30 psi easily. a stock 7.3 no turbo makes 170 ish hp with around 2x torque, they rev pretty good aswel
what is your take on GP relay bypass ??? some say they heat plugs for nothing when engine is warm so a bypass will extend GP life but others say that the relay heats the plugs to prevent build up in combustion chambers.. so is it better to bypass or replace the controller ?? if bypass is the better option what would be the best way to do it ?? is there another relay available ??
i have the 7.3 idi with a problem. when its cold it starts with no problems after the engine warms up and shut the engine off for few minutes and crank it again it shakes really bad with blue smoke coming out, i push the throttle and goes away. someone told me that it might be air getting into the fuel system. any thoughts??? much appreciate i need to fix this problem
89 350 7.3 E40D been having a strange trouble with the tach not working and the transmission not wanting to start 1st speed when starting up having to pull it down to 1st speed and get moving than bring it to Drive after a wile it will come back and start shifting right . It seem like wen something is loose or warms up it comes back. The odd thing is the tach and the shifting circuit must be together. And is dropping out .
So I have a quick question I bought a 6.9 idi 87 ford and it has issues starting warm once the engine starts if I start it again it fired right up ive changed everything you mentioned on the video except the oil cooler because it didn't have a leak. The truck had 1 leak when I bought it and that was the liquid gasket for the Transfer Case was bad and slowly leaking. Could I have messed up a glow plug or something. (PS first deisel I have ever own so sorry if I seem like I dont know much because I dont really 😅) Thank you
Hope you can help me. I have a 1994 7.3 IDI f250 been trying to solve this problem for over a year. Originally the truck ran fine but in time it would stall out all the time. Having to restart in the middle of an intersection was a bitch. After seeing numerous videos (me a complete layman) I checked for air intrusion. My fuel filter would be only 1/2 full when I would remove and inspect it. I removed the fuel heater plug on the filter and saw it needed a new O ring. That seemed to help, but still had problems. I replaced the fuel lines under the hood to trace air bubbles in the lines. There were air bubbles. I replaced the lift pump but that didn't help. So I decided to remove the fuel source from the tanks to the lift pump and mounted a canister to the front of the truck and put a fuel source directly from the canister to the lift pump cutting the tank sources off. It then ran great again even under a load, so it seems the problem is somewhere beyond the lift pump leading back to the tanks. I don't seem to have any problem with switching the front to the rear, but now I'm stumped. got any good advice? I sure do need some. Thanks in advance.
So I had a similar troubleshooting issue when I first got my older 85. Because there's so many variables like rub points, bad seals, and more I replaced the entire feed line on my 94 f250 that you've seen in my most recent videos. I wanted to do a sump kit but I never got around to it. I did hose clamp high quality diesel safe rubber line from my tank all the way to my electric lift pump and added insulators on wherever I routed it there was a potential rub point. I also capped off my return line port on the filter housing that goes to the injector caps. It's been a few years now without issues. I don't daily drive the truck anymore but when I do she don't skip a beat
any of the turbo kits out there will provide a noticeable improvement over a naturally aspirated configuration. Banks are alright kits if you can get it for a deal I would jump on it.
the best turbo kit used to get imo is the factory ats 093 kit because it's most common to find and R+D turbo upgrades parts will bolt right on so you can reuse your turbo piping. Hypermax is ok but not as good however to my knowledge hypermax is the only company left manufacturing new turbo kits for IDIs
I like the ATS 093, I recently has type4 (russ) rebuild and modify my 093 ATS along with his high torque cam shaft and running Justin's (R&D) upgraded turbo outlet and injectors and injection pump. motor rebuilt and .030 over. great strong running motor.
you could blow head gaskets with a turbo..plus the IDI NA is not built as strong as a IDI turbo. Look up the ford diesel coffee table books online. They have one covering the IDI turbo.
Where is the fuel/water separator on a 1993 F350 Dually?? I can not find anything online that points that out. My “Water in Fuel” light is on and the truck won’t start. Thanks
@@judgedread9639 I appreciate your time and response. It is a standard transmisson but j believe the issue to be something to do with the clutch position relay so im going to check that out
Hi mike I have a new tcm for my auto tranny. The tac won’t work right away takes a couple minutes to jump in. Without the tac working tranny won’t shift. Any ideas ?
Hey buddy liked the viedos so far, have a question about my 7.3 idi, I notice she has clear blue smoke dumping out the exhaust and it's drinking oil like crazy. I've been told it's my O rings, would that be from injectors or more serious?
Mike Grn hey yes it was definitely the piston rings. Thank you for the information provided. Very helpful. I was listening to your viedo and I will be swapping out to another 7.3 idi motor and I will add what you were saying about putting new Injectors in there too.
Mike Grn one more question? Is it hard to add a turbo to the non trubo engine? I would like to add one to my 93. Or would it be better to get the later 93 motor with the factory turbo.
Did you delete the factory glow plug relay ? Mines gone out and I’m thinking about going to a in cab push button, but this is a 93 and the relay looks oem So it has lasted a long time , Indiana diesel has the factory type for 76.00 I went with motor craft glow plugs
Mine went out, rather than spending $200 to get a new one, I just wired a bypass across the glow plug solenoid to a toggle switch on the dash. Works as good as new. Just remember, it only takes about five seconds for glow plugs to be ready. Leave them on much longer and you could seriously damage your glow plugs.
Hello, I'm wondering IF ANYBODY can tell me What size the Rubber Return Line is that is going off of the Engine and down to the Tank's? I'm guessing 1/4", 5/16", 3/8"???? I have to go and get a truck and the line is bad right off the Engine and down to the line going back to the tank(s). PLEASE HELP THIS OL' MAN ON THIS. THANKS in advance.
Hey Mike I just picked up a 85 f250 with a 86 6.9 idi. I work on a lot of gasoline cars, but never had a diesel. Excited to work on this one, but curious of the best way to clean up the fuel system.
@@groundtogreen1140 Hey Mike I also found some of the injectors were wet. They operate correctly would it be best to just put new seals as long as they’re operating efficiently
@@Celicabryce it's really up to you if they are working as intended. I normally do em on a fresh truck (buy from a reputable source; accurate diesel, Russ repair, R+d idi performance) are my suggestions. I also normally get a spare injection pump rebuilt or set money aside because on my first truck the pump was dead from the start, on the second it only lasted about a year into owning it. The second one thou I think is because the previous owner let diesel sit in it for way too long then ran it through it like 6 years or something.
@@groundtogreen1140 Ahh yeah this one was sitting since 2015, just parked as a new truck was purchased. Runs great, but your probably right don't want to be in there again for a stuck injector. I appreciate you taking the time to give me some pointers. Maybe I'll post a video of the truck, would be fun.
Maybe a stupid question, but what do you call that air intake style? I'd like to upgrade my truck to one like that from the full housing and tiny hose intake that it came with, but I have no idea what its called. Thx in advance for the help
Technically it's not really an upgrade without hood vents as your not getting fresh cold air but any parts store carries em in their "hot rod section" . It was put on by the PO and I just left it.
I have a 1990 IDI motor none turbo 7.3, and wanted remanded to O.E.M.. It has 185,000 miles on. My question is how do I know if there is any cavitation pitting in the block , are should I just have refined , it .
Mike, silly question but what air cleaner do you have on there? What would the diameter of the opening in the bottom piece be? I like the looks plus I had the same thing on my Dakota. And what size exhaust do you recommend? I probably won't put a turbo on it, so, short story, air cleaner and exhaust size. Thanks.
this one's a K&N air filter cleaner that came with the truck but the edelbrock ones that go on the carbed gas trucks are the same diameter you just have to wollar out the top hole for the intake bolt . messed around any part store to find a tall filter that was compatible I have to look for the part number later. as for the exhaust I have been told 4 inch and larger is the same performance wise just sounds different with bigger obviously
Mike Grn thanks for the info. Got the truck for $500 but needs some tlc. Probably do glow plugs next. I would imagine everything is original. Switched to a Wix fuel filter and using a powerstroke oil filter for the extra quart. Fuel tanks need new pick ups, might just replace entire unit. Fixing stuff as I find it.
I am looking at this 85 6.9 idi and the guy says he thinks he is getting air in the fuel system because it blows some white smoke when he touches the throttle? And help please?
Question. If you thought your tach was not reading properly....what device, or what method would you use to get an accurate read on your 7.3 IDI RPM's from the engine and under the hood? I know the sending unit is located on the timing gear housing but is there any possible way to check the RPM's from the engine directly?
Your forgetting about the 6.4.. it was the very last international and maxforce combo double turbo. Later years 2010 and later 6.7 came, the bs aluminum motors
MY 6.9 wont even bump start after sitting for a few months, any suggestions? it was hard to start before, and batteries are either bad or dont get charged.
What is the plastic tank below the left battery for in a 6.9 1986 engine ? Looks like some air-intake tank. Saw it while replacing the heater-core unit..
Hello I'm looking for a dip stick for a 7.3l diesel engine. I can't seem to find one anywhere great videos by the way I'm learning a lot about this motor I do not have very much power and a turbo sounds like the right option but first I need a dipstick for this motor please help me locate one thanks
I have a 1984 F-250 that someone put a old 7.3 in it last winter. I got in a wreck day after Thanksgiving this year. I ran into a tree that took the cab off my truck. I'm having to change out the cab with a gas powered truck and I'm trying to figure out the wires to run the diesel engine in it.
1984 is a solid harness from inside the cab into the firewall all the way forward; it's all one piece. No quick disconnect connectors like the newer years.It's a pain in the butt to swap it. Your body lights will all be the same and if I remember right the speedo is a cable so no worry there but if you want all the individual engine dash sensors, glow plug wiring, etc to work you gotta swap the harness over. There is no new 83-86 diesel harnesses being produced either that I know of. If it was me and my truck I wouldn't worry about the oem sensors and I'd install aftermarket ones, run a push button for the glow plugs, splice in a hot lead for the injection pump fuel shut off solenoid , and high idle solenoid wiring and then finally tie in an internally regulated alternator (several options there). The other option is ; which my buddy did. Snag a universal wiring harness offline and if you or a friend is good with electrical build yourself a better than factory harness with actual fuses vs all the fusible link headaches. If you go the quick route thankfully these engines only need a couple key things to run.
Hello Mr. Green, I came across a 90 ford f250 diesel xlt lariat 7.3. the owner says it needs some work. I've never owned a diesel, so my question is how expensive is it to maintain and repair. this truck will not be a daily driver. mainly HD runs and to the city dump, more than likely taking friends and family to run errands...lol! at the moment I'm that person, which is why I want a truck. I always hear great things about diesel's but i know nothing about them.
An idi is relatively cheap to repair and maintain but the big problem is most shops are clueless about em so you gotta learn alot of self maintenance at least that's been my experience.
Could be air but weird only when ya stop. Definitely would take some trouble shooting. Check all your electrical too like a loose connection that could kill power
Hey Mike I was wondering about your k&n air filter set up. Is there somewhere specific that sells that same set up you got and do you need an adapter to fit it or can you just get it from your local parts store? Thanks for your time.
johnathan booth I have long since deleted this because I changed my turbo but the parts store edelbrock lids work just need to get a taller filter and expand top hole for intake bolt to.fit
I have a 1989 7.3 IDI and my tach sensor I think is bad it works but at idle it registers zero so would you think the sensor is no good or are there other problems the motor runs fine
Why is Ben Shapiro teaching me about trucks?
Thats funny.
Haha
😂😂😂😂
Hey when your phones space is almost full and the video kept cutting out for the 3rd time you gotta speak quick lol
These trucks don’t care about your feelings. 😂
I remember the IDI's when they first appeared in our early medics and grass trucks. Incredible difference when the technology was improved and turbos were added.
I had 2 7.3L IDIs, a 93' and a 94'. Both were solid engines. I could achieve 22 mpg with one of them.
I replaced the injectors and glow plugs in both with my poor mechanical skills. I had serpentine belt issues with both. It seemed like I had to replace a serpentine belt every 15,000 miles. Tensioner pulleys were also a problem. I have scars on my right hand to prove it.
I loved my 7.3s. They cranked every time, the hauled me around the country, and they did it with low fuel cost and low maintenance cost. If I could own a 3rd vehicle now for fun, it'd be a 7.3L.
That’s not low cost
My tdi swapped 1981 vw rabbit pickup makes as much power as your 7.3
Except it weighs less than half.
It gets 75mpg
And is twice as fast.
THAT is a cheap trip around the country.
22mpg I coulda done every drive you did 3 times and still have lots of money left over.
Thanks a ton for this video. I just picked up an '85 with a 6.9 and I'm looking forward to getting it going.
thank you for the quick video, it answered several of my questions without wasting my time. I greatly appreciate this.
I have an 89 F-250 7.3l idi I love my truck engine is strong replaced front leafs for beefer ones. Love the way growls when running.
Remember boys, when people say: "I'd rather be cummin than power-stroking", say: "She ain't a power-stroke, and at least I can last longer." These trucks are pretty rare and are basically bulletproof, 200K and pulling strong and all stock.
ShadowKnight7171 325k buddy
ShadowKnight7171 2 million never rebuilt all original
1983 6.9 idi... automatic used and abused its whole life 😉 replace the injectors and glow plugs every 100k miles
im at 400k in mine now. all stock
I'm looking at an 89 7.3 for 2500.. it has some issues but runs and very little rust. Would u buy it for 2500? How expensive are they to have worked on
each1teachonetruth dirt cheap for a diesel to work on and 2500 thats a good price just make sure the guy has used the correct coolent.
I wish I would’ve found this right when I got my van. Every single thing you said I had a problem with Ben had an extensive learning. About these engines with each of those problems. I would’ve watched this in the beginning I would’ve known all of it, thank you for the great video
I have a 1986 Ford F-250 6.9 idi best damn truck I ever owned!!!!!!! Bulletproof!!!!!!
Same truck I have. I've only had her about a month but so far I love it
Just got my first diesel. 1993 7.3 IDI in a Ford 350 dually. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the introduction to this particular vehicle. I just bought one for 1900. Runs and drives great. The shifting is a little sloppy- hoping I can tighten it up a little. Ordered a tech manual first off. It will be here Monday. Oil is black. Not sure it's ever been changed. 68500 on it. Wiring has been molested by amateurs installing sound system as well as trying to repair things. Tanks won't switch- may be it's just the dash switch. Could be a wire knocked loose. I will be watching more of your videos. You definitely are knowledgeable. Great info source!
Thank you very much for taking the time to share with others. That's what life's about.
Black oil is normal ... new oil will turn black almost instantly in these trucks. On the side rail frame just back from drivers door is the Tank selector valve ... box with tank lines going in I had a spring jam inside the box not allowing it to open. There is also an electric plug to the box. If you need a new box I've got one I removed... still working.
What tranny do you have?
Oil is black.. Haha. Change the oil, start it up and run for 5 mins = black oil.
It’s likely not the switch in the dash for the fuel tanks but the unit itself ; it’s a common fail.
1983-84 6.9s used the exact same direct-drive starter motor, the Delco-Remy 27MT, as the 1982-88 Chevrolet/GMC C/K trucks equipped with the 6.2 diesel.
Yeah, I check my oil about once every 2-3wks. It does use a little oil, but there’s very little to no blowby at all, so it either evaporates it through the CCV, or it just uses a tad bit, I will say that she starts well at 30 degrees/freezing & she started on diesel down here in Texas during the big freeze no ether at all, just my manual 10second glowplug controller bypass. She started, but since there was no gell addative it took some time to get her to start, but once the IP was warm she idled well until it lost fuel pressure from the tank, so she wouldn’t run after that until everything thawed out. I have an under truck on frame 110GPH electric HolleyBlue fuel pump, been using em for a while & they’re great.
6.9/7.3 liter fords are the best motors on the road. i have a 86 f350 with 640k miles and still pull 10-15k lbs daily. just put a banks sidewinder on my 89 f350, amazing difference. sounds like a semi with the 4 inch pipes. my 84 f250 does have a blown head gasket but no big deal, fix it and go for another 300k. im trying to break a million on my 86. Change your oil every 2500 miles whether or not you think you should, it wont hurt anything, only help you rack up high and happy miles
Wish my 1983 6.9L had a turbo while younger. Today she has a little over 450,000 miles and a turbo would likely be her end.
The 6.9 has thicker jackets and you'll need to replace the pistons, rings, rods, and more, anyway. Do it!
Just bought an 85 f350 dually with a 6.9l first diesel i love it glad i found you
I’ll have to check out R&D....I have an ‘87 6.9 non turbo, I’m planning on getting it “bulletproofed” with head bolts and adding a turbo.
I’m going to try to learn about the performance options out there, and see how many I can use
my 6,9s make 170 hp i forget thepowergrid. max rpm is 3,3oo . i love these diesels. i have a few of them.
A FEW OF THEM??? No wonder i can't find one....
@@shortieaustin5211 haa I like ur comment ! :)
@Marshall Davis it isnt alot by today but does well .
Don't forget the dual mass flywheel on manual transmission idis they go out at about 80-90000 miles, mine is going out. As for the aftermarket turbo kits I wouldn't go over 7 psi max boost because the NA motors have 21:1 compression and will have problems with too much boost, the factory turbo 7.3 idi have 17:1 compression and stronger rods and rings to deal with the extra cylinder pressure.
I was just trying to cover some of the more beginner information so to speak I know I couldn't cover everything. as for the turbo thou alot of guys have went well beyond 7 on a na motor and the rods hold up quite well ; it's just head studs become a must the higher you go. Thx for the comment
still on the stock clutch at 289,000 miles
My clutch is fine but the dual mass flywheel is going out. The engine is a Jasper reman with 90000 miles. So either they reused the old flywheel, if they did it probably has about 212,000 miles or it was replaced with the engine then it has 90000 miles on it and is going out. Will be replacing it with another dual mass flywheel.
+7.3 IDI Diesel I would go single mass man. much stronger IMO
+IDITURBO I can't really speak from experience since both my trucks are Auto but I have heard the same thing that the single masses a lot stronger
Can you do an in depth video on fuel line replacement? I just got a 1990 F250, and needs new fuel lines. This is my first diesel.
Great vid. Concise and direct. The only other thing i would have added is that the IP Pumps tend to start getting weak over 200k miles and you need to run a Quality #Diesel specific oil because they hold up to the high ash content generated by diesel engines.
Also an oil sample sent to Blackstone labs for analysis will tell you more about the engine then you could hope to know.
Kinda like a urine sample 🤣
One sample is kind of useless for trying to determine some of the wear metals , you need 2 or more to see if anything is going on.
If you've got 25ppm of a wear metal on the first test ,and 50ppm on the second you better start looking.
But if it's tracking 50ppm over a few samples that might not be any at all, you're looking for percentage increases
Wish I'd known about them damn autolites before I put em in. Lasted two whole months and now I need to get an extractor. Fml
The glow plugs are 12 volt not 5.5, it should say on the plugs, thats the reason they blow, its not the brand its the volt difference.
@@jamescrawford8292 I bought what it called for, thats all I know..
I know, I replaced mine when I bought the truck with what was in it, it was also what it called for but I tested them with a 12v battery and they blew, replaced them with motorcraft 12v and that fixed it
@@jamescrawford8292 Yeah, Ive heard to only put Motorcraft glow plugs in, too late now of course..lol
just bought a 1986 f250 xlt supercab 6.9 idi and god i love her
good deal man be sure to sub Ive got plenty of helpful videos for first time idi owners
500$ wouldnt start bomb started it drover home changed the glow plugs starts right up and purrs like a kitten
I paid 700 for my 93 and 500 for the new 84
nice tough old trucks
spence brooks how much you paid for your? I just got a f350 4 door flat bed, runs very good, for $1900.
thanks good video . I just bought my first idi, and trying to get ad much info as possible.
definitely go through my channel then lots of very informative helpful videos and more to come
I just got my hands on an 86’ 6.9 f250 crank no start project truck, I can get it started on ether but it dies almost instantly so I’m going to watch all your vids and go over the fuel system
1987 was the last year for the 6.9, it had 1/2 diameter head bolts where as 1983 to 1986 had 7/16ths and also in 1987 the 6.9 had a bigger better flowing heads than the previous years and ford Contiued to use the same heads on the 7.3
Robert Slade Jr sweet
The heads on the 7.3 IDI were different even from the 1987. Valves were different (harder and it had enlarged valve stem shields) the precombustion chamber is larger on the 7.3 IDI heads.
The block was the same, just bored 0.011” over with same stroke achieving the 444 cubic inch displacement from the 6.9L’s 420. Front cover had revisions, they were prone to seepage on the 6.9.
Thanks a lot for the info upload!!! I'm new to these beasts.
Edited to add that I Subscribe to your channel.
I got really lucky with mine. The older that had my F250 before me loved that truck! He even waxed the door jambs. 1991 F250 lariat. If it had 4wd Id still have it. Great truck.
4x4 swap it
@@zachparker778 he got rid of it. Laughable too. He sold it because no 4wd even though it's so easily done
Thank you for posting this! My uncle ALWAYS rocked these Diesel trucks in the 80's & 90's. 2000's, he went to the newer ones BUT I remember how cool the 1st gen series was. I'm trying to learn all I can about them because I've just purchased my 1st Diesel which is also my 1st 4x4. Is 1987 still considered part of the "1st gen" series...???
interesting, thank you for the information. new 7.3l owner
Just got an 85 6.9. Thanks for the info.
So how is/was your 6.9? Asking for a friend looking to buy...
@@kevinm.n.5158 it was great. Hard to find parts though. And you best pray nothing in the charging system goes out because all the replacement parts are garbage
Short and lots of info, thanks. Now looking for your air intrusion videos.
We're brothers lol my grandpa's truck engine replacement was from an ambulance also the original engine went out at 94,000 and the engine that was in it originally had a banks turbo but when he got the one out of the ambulance it did not have a turbo on it of course. Still does have it but he kept the turbo in Storage. My air leak in our truck is coming from the tank switch that connects the two of them when you switch them and around the fuel filter it is also leaking.
great video, thanks! what air filter are you using on that engine? good info on the crank case pressure relief. never good to go without what's designed into the engine (at least my thinking). What constitutes a bad fuel injector? Re: fuel pump (gear driven) warnings - THANK YOU. I've made the bone head maneuver of yanking out a idler shaft driven water pump without timing chain on and it was a nightmare getting everything aligned. (not this engine tho). It's my understanding the IDI 7.3L compression is about 25:1 which is why IH/Fordidn't put turbos on this engine - it cause premature wear/failure and some unhappy piston rods. Very happy to hear your reccomendation on the brand/type of glow plug. These are the pearls the laymen can't get anymore by hanging at the shop. (back in the day, i practically grew up in the auto shop, so have at least some horse sense.]Thanks again man!
What air filter do you use? I understand the 7.3L has such high compression (25:1 or some insanity). Winds up burning up valves and/or breaking piston rods. Fuel pump removal warning - THANK YOU! I guess, in other words, don't put an aftermarket Turbo kit on the 7.3L. (as I understand it) . Which oil do you use? After researching synthetic oil, i'm sold on synthetic for any IC engine. There are good scientific reasons for this. In short, synthetic guarantees all the oil (oil molecules) have the same properties for multi-vis oils. Distilled
dino-oil has a broad range. this is why synthetic "lasts longer".
Thanks Mike, great information and you explain it all very well.
was going to subscribe, but I already did. thanks for the content
Mike thank u sir I like your channel very helpful information
Thanks for the info, I just purchased a 1988 F250 with the IDI 7.3 diesel non-turbo. I plan on using it as "knock around" truck for household work. It's my first diesel truck. It does have an issue with glow plugs. The glow plugs are not coming on and the dash light indicator is not showing "wait to start" (I know the indicator has power and I took a test light to the glow plug wires to test for power with the key in the start position, none) when I turn the key, I hear a click and it does have a new glow plug relay and new glow plugs. Where should I look to solve the problem? She's old, but since she's not my daily driver and a virtually rust free truck from Nevada, I plan on keeping her a very very long time. Any advice would be great, thanks again for the video info keep up the great work.
My grandpa built the B 52 bombers in the military. He rebuild my 7.3 idi
Hey just thought id comment saying i jist bought one of these its a 85 with 34k on it and it cost me $300
Josh Waters lucky son b!&$?
Does it have a 6 digit odometer?
@@texanbalaban6777 334k probably :)
My friend just bought one with 22,000miles onnit
@Marshall Davis any 7.3 idi is pretty much worth $2500 if its under 230k miles, look the frame over REAL well, try to spin the drive shafts back and forth, feel the transmission when you drive it, make sure the core support isn't rusted, smell the oil, look at the color of the exhaust.
Mike, nice video. I have a 94 250 IDI turbo. Recently I did some work on my gauge cluster. LEDs and such. I removed the green film on the back of the gauge faces. In doing all of this I had to remove all the indicator needles on the gauges. I was told to take a picture of the gauge locations before dismounting the cluster in order to set them back to where they should be. I did that, except It didn't dawn on me to take a picture of the RMP gauge at idol in order to replace the tach needle where it should be. So my question is, is there any possible way to measure or detect the RPM's from any device under the hood? I know the RPM sending unit is mounted on the timing wheel housing, where it feeds to the tach on the dash, but no one seems to know how to read the RPM's from under the hood. These have no computers like later 7.3 have and everyone is stumped. Sorry for the long explanation but everyone wonders why I would want to verify the RPMs from under the hood. Got any ideas on this? I had to have the tach working to reinstall the dash cluster so guessed at the idol RPMS at about 600. I really would love to know exactly what the true number really is. Thanks so much for any info you can offer.
Well the rpm gauge in and of itself is a simple swappable gauge. Beyond that I know there is aftermarket tach kits I'm sure one could be used as meter so to speak. Very interesting question I haven't encountered that before
@@groundtogreen1140 So far I haven't found a single mechanic that can figure out how to do it. Diesel's not having a distributor I guess makes it impossible to do. In these older rigs, they didn't have the same computer as the later power strokes so to recalibrate the Tach one just has to guess and readjust the tach needle in the gauge and hope for the best. You would think the sending unit placed on the timing gear housing that feeds the tach would send some kind of impulse that could be read on some other kind of device. Do you know what normal warm idol RPM speed is on these engines?
@@johnnyohness6610 late reply but 650-750 rpm roughly is what they run at once warmed up and the high idle solenoid is disengaged. i’d just start it up with the gauge cluster plugged in and with the needle removed and then push the needle onto the shaft of the gauge motor with it pointing to the RPM markers and ball park it. I made the same mistake when doing the cluster on my Expedition but thankfully there i had an OBD scan tool and was able to read it off there.
I don't remember what brand they are, but I do have an aftermarket see of glow plugs in my 6.9 that have been in there for over 10 years now that are far superior to the OEM ones. The oem ones have a very short burn time and even just cycling them a couple times can burn them up, but before my dad passed the truck down to me, he put in some aftermarket set and bypassed the glow plug relay and just wired them to a toggle switch, and you can let them burn for 5-10 minutes without worrying about them burning up. If I can find the brand and part number I'll put it up.
Hey! Let me know on the brand. Thank you!
You ever find it
got one of these. 370k miles 5 speed ZF transmission, and the glow plug system and wiring are completely shot. something to throw out there about giving ether to these engines. DO NOT DO IT... unless you have completely disabled the glow plug system. I have to give mine a small shot every morning. and that is all you need. don't spray for more than a split second.
Ether will destroy your engine eventually. Its soooo bad to use on a diesel. You said your wireing for glow plugs was bad. Do you mean the wires are actually bad or that glow plug system just doesn't respond? My glow plug control module gave out, and left the glow plug system completely dead. Rather than spending $200 on a new one, I just wired in a bypass across the glow plug solenoid to a toggle switch in the cab. Even on the coldest days I can hit the toggle for 5 seconds and it fires right up. Just a thought, if you didnt actually mean the wires were chewed up by mice or something.
Hi looking to buy my first diesel I have a chance to buy a 1985 f350 6.9l for 1500 bucks says 67k miles but it’s a company truck so I’m sure it’s rolled over so 167k or 267k maybe? Also it doesn’t have a bed I was going to build a wood deck won’t be hauling anything heavy
All 7.3s were made by International Motors, not judt the IDIs. The PowerStrokes were just badged with the PowerStroke badges and branded by Ford
So if I’m correct you’re telling me I can drop a 7.3 in a 1985 F250 6.9 Frame?
Derek Rudkin yes you can. I have an 85 with a 7.3 idi in it
You can also swap out that 4 speed with a zf5 or zf6 with some light mods..
My 1984 f-250 came from the factory with a 6.9 I did an engine swap, and the 7.3 fits just as well as the 6.9 did. No cutting firewalls or anything
Derek Rudkin does a 6.9 idi fit in a 1981 f100
The 7.3 is just a bored 6.9. Physically they're almost identical in size
Hey Mike your videos are a lot of help I'm having an issue with my IDI overheating after a short drive I've done head gasket and even did the timing for the fuel injection pump and water pump still over heats :(
You hot any videos that would help me out
In my experience the 3 things that cause em to overheat is a clogged rad, a bad fan clutch, or a bad thermostat. If ya do the thermostat go to a dealer get a motorcraft only one. other than that make sure you've what Ive always called bubbling out the rad to release any trapped air pockets
The comment about the coolant isn't entirely true, not all ELC's, or extended life coolants, have an SCA precharge additive that is required for these engines. Most don't come with an SCA precharge so make sure the coolant you select has it unless you just add the additive separately.
I change my coolant quite often in my trucks (particularly the 7.3's) to help battle the cavitation issues. About every 30K, which believe me in tow trucks is OFTEN. They also idle quite a bit, but still, my DD is a 6.9 and it gets changed at 35K or every year, whichever comes first. I've never had a problem with cav.
Have a question... I have a chance at buying a 1987 with 140k and a 7.3 with 77k, no problems, starts right up and seems pretty nice beside the two tone poop color paint job. He wants 2000$, is it a descent price?
Beau B yea better deal than I got for 85
Anyone ever swap a1991 7.3 E-350 To a 12 valve Cummings Diesel?
International/Navistar made the diesel engines for Ford all the way up to 2010, 2011 (6.7) was their first in-house motor
Samuel Gibson he knows we’re talking about the IDI motor bud👌🏼🤙🏻
I got a banks sidewinder turbo i love it spools nice
I’m looking at buying a 1994 f250 I’m not a ford guy but I’ve only ever heard good things about 7.3idi only has 168k on it said it needs injections for 5800$
I just bought a 1984 f250 with a 6.9 it ran fine when i bought and now it looks like irs starving of fuel, it has fuel on both tanks i think when it swap tanks to see how much i had i most have let some dirt on the line or on that transfer pump, can you show a video on changing fuel lines and tanks would great
Mine is a 85 F-350 W / A 7.3 IDI (used to B 6.9) and she's not getting fuel.. ALOT of "Hands " have been envolved with the motor change.... also my glow plug cabin light no longer shines! I'm lost?
Check out some of my other videos but more hands usually means more problems
It's a 86 Ford f250 6.9 it's my first diesel I've always wanted one to start my car transport business I can't afford a new one this one is only 2000
RamVan Bobby very good as a first starter one a new one. These days is ridiculous
I have an '86 F250 as my Daily. Have had it for about 15 years now. I assume it's a manual tranny (T19 4-speed like mine). BULLET PROOF but not fast because of low gearing (and diesel!). You're pulling a car trailer anyway. Have fun with her and I hope you make lot's of mone! Be safe and welcome to the brotherhood!
the company I work for had a 1987 Ford F 350 stake bed with 7.3 diesel auto trans and lift gate when they junked the vehicle it had 310,000 miles it gave great service.
I just picked up a 89 7.3 idi motorhome, after 2 days and and many readings with multi meter, got the glow system back online still doesnt wanna fire, i have air fuel and compression what am i missing ?
Thank you! A very informative video!!
I have one of those cold air intakes that draws air from the front of the engine compartment, but the intake nozzle is tiny, like 1" by 4". The truck is sluggish on towing and I wonder if that is a contributing factor, and if any special care needs to be taken to upgrade to an intake like yours, or if I would risk bogging down the engine or something else unforeseen.
more air definitely might help; one of the biggest power robbers is air restriction on diesels. My uncles 24v actually had lower boost numbers when his filter was clogged.
Cool vid. Great engines. Probably one of the best engines for a SHTF, apocalypse situation. I was thinking of doing a 444 idi for a military hummer. what kinda power and rpm redline are they good for (turbo & non turbo )? If you don't boost to high, are the naturally aspirated pistons a good compression ratio?
7-8 psi is what i would go on a fully stock engine with injector pump mods. u can spent a few grand to get over 30 psi easily. a stock 7.3 no turbo makes 170 ish hp with around 2x torque, they rev pretty good aswel
what is your take on GP relay bypass ??? some say they heat plugs for nothing when engine is warm so a bypass will extend GP life but others say that the relay heats the plugs to prevent build up in combustion chambers.. so is it better to bypass or replace the controller ?? if bypass is the better option what would be the best way to do it ?? is there another relay available ??
91 7.3. Trans pump is out. But it's a bad ass truck
Awesome Video thanks a lot man
i have the 7.3 idi with a problem. when its cold it starts with no problems after the engine warms up and shut the engine off for few minutes and crank it again it shakes really bad with blue smoke coming out, i push the throttle and goes away. someone told me that it might be air getting into the fuel system. any thoughts??? much appreciate i need to fix this problem
Hi Mike, i bought the facet 9.5 - 11 psi for my non turbo 6.9l you have one on your 90's truck so my question is have you had any problem with it
Appreciate you.
89 350 7.3 E40D been having a strange trouble with the tach not working and the transmission not wanting to start 1st speed when starting up having to pull it down to 1st speed and get moving than bring it to Drive after a wile it will come back and start shifting right . It seem like wen something is loose or warms up it comes back. The odd thing is the tach and the shifting circuit must be together. And is dropping out .
I tapped into my fill cap with a hose which I put into the exhaust back by the rear wheel. I know it's pulling air because the oil in the hose
So I have a quick question I bought a 6.9 idi 87 ford and it has issues starting warm once the engine starts if I start it again it fired right up ive changed everything you mentioned on the video except the oil cooler because it didn't have a leak. The truck had 1 leak when I bought it and that was the liquid gasket for the Transfer Case was bad and slowly leaking. Could I have messed up a glow plug or something. (PS first deisel I have ever own so sorry if I seem like I dont know much because I dont really 😅) Thank you
Hope you can help me. I have a 1994 7.3 IDI f250 been trying to solve this problem for over a year. Originally the truck ran fine but in time it would stall out all the time. Having to restart in the middle of an intersection was a bitch. After seeing numerous videos (me a complete layman) I checked for air intrusion. My fuel filter would be only 1/2 full when I would remove and inspect it.
I removed the fuel heater plug on the filter and saw it needed a new O ring. That seemed to help, but still had problems. I replaced the fuel lines under the hood to trace air bubbles in the lines. There were air bubbles. I replaced the lift pump but that didn't help.
So I decided to remove the fuel source from the tanks to the lift pump and mounted a canister to the front of the truck and put a fuel source directly from the canister to the lift pump cutting the tank sources off. It then ran great again even under a load, so it seems the problem is somewhere beyond the lift pump leading back to the tanks. I don't seem to have any problem with switching the front to the rear, but now I'm stumped. got any good advice? I sure do need some. Thanks in advance.
So I had a similar troubleshooting issue when I first got my older 85. Because there's so many variables like rub points, bad seals, and more I replaced the entire feed line on my 94 f250 that you've seen in my most recent videos. I wanted to do a sump kit but I never got around to it. I did hose clamp high quality diesel safe rubber line from my tank all the way to my electric lift pump and added insulators on wherever I routed it there was a potential rub point. I also capped off my return line port on the filter housing that goes to the injector caps. It's been a few years now without issues. I don't daily drive the truck anymore but when I do she don't skip a beat
I have a 1991 F250 7.3 IDI. My question is: Is it worth putting a banks turbo kit into my truck?
any of the turbo kits out there will provide a noticeable improvement over a naturally aspirated configuration. Banks are alright kits if you can get it for a deal I would jump on it.
Which turbo kit would you recommend?
the best turbo kit used to get imo is the factory ats 093 kit because it's most common to find and R+D turbo upgrades parts will bolt right on so you can reuse your turbo piping. Hypermax is ok but not as good however to my knowledge hypermax is the only company left manufacturing new turbo kits for IDIs
I like the ATS 093, I recently has type4 (russ) rebuild and modify my 093 ATS along with his high torque cam shaft and running Justin's (R&D) upgraded turbo outlet and injectors and injection pump. motor rebuilt and .030 over. great strong running motor.
you could blow head gaskets with a turbo..plus the IDI NA is not built as strong as a IDI turbo. Look up the ford diesel coffee table books online. They have one covering the IDI turbo.
Here because of zip ties and bias plies. Fuckin Mint 7.3 ya got there
What is the sensor located next to the oil fill?
Where is the fuel/water separator on a 1993 F350 Dually?? I can not find anything online that points that out. My “Water in Fuel” light is on and the truck won’t start. Thanks
Dream Big in the later models its part of your fuel filter right on the bottom
Did u ever figure this out I have the same issue
Bonsai King the light also indicates that it might just be out of gear- trying to start out of park, and neutra,l trips the light-
@@judgedread9639 I appreciate your time and response. It is a standard transmisson but j believe the issue to be something to do with the clutch position relay so im going to check that out
My 97 powerstroke had a international emblem on the side of the block i believe international Made 7.3’s till 99
International still partnered with Ford actually all the way up to the 6.0 until they had to fall out from all the lawsuits
How do I tell the difference between 6.9/7.3 to what I have in my truck?
Hi mike
I have a new tcm for my auto tranny. The tac won’t work right away takes a couple minutes to jump in. Without the tac working tranny won’t shift. Any ideas ?
good video
Hey buddy liked the viedos so far, have a question about my 7.3 idi, I notice she has clear blue smoke dumping out the exhaust and it's drinking oil like crazy. I've been told it's my O rings, would that be from injectors or more serious?
Christopher Barnes o rings shouldn't cause that problem but piston rings might be worn. You sure it's using it not leaking it
Mike Grn hey yes it was definitely the piston rings. Thank you for the information provided. Very helpful. I was listening to your viedo and I will be swapping out to another 7.3 idi motor and I will add what you were saying about putting new Injectors in there too.
Christopher Barnes no problem
Mike Grn one more question? Is it hard to add a turbo to the non trubo engine? I would like to add one to my 93. Or would it be better to get the later 93 motor with the factory turbo.
Christopher Barnes not hard at all and definitely worth it I have a couple videos on that as well
Did you delete the factory glow plug relay ? Mines gone out and I’m thinking about going to a in cab push button, but this is a 93 and the relay looks oem
So it has lasted a long time , Indiana diesel has the factory type for 76.00 I went with motor craft glow plugs
I did not but had my friend help me wire in a 7.3 harness
Mine went out, rather than spending $200 to get a new one, I just wired a bypass across the glow plug solenoid to a toggle switch on the dash. Works as good as new. Just remember, it only takes about five seconds for glow plugs to be ready. Leave them on much longer and you could seriously damage your glow plugs.
New to channel and looking at a 6.9 IDI 85 F250. Do you recommend the 6.9? Great video
yea they are almost the same as a 7.3 minus a couple of differences. If it runs good yea I'd maybe snag it
Thanks for the info dude
Hello, I'm wondering IF ANYBODY can tell me What size the Rubber Return Line is that is going off of the Engine and down to the Tank's? I'm guessing 1/4", 5/16", 3/8"???? I have to go and get a truck and the line is bad right off the Engine and down to the line going back to the tank(s). PLEASE HELP THIS OL' MAN ON THIS. THANKS in advance.
Hey Mike I just picked up a 85 f250 with a 86 6.9 idi. I work on a lot of gasoline cars, but never had a diesel. Excited to work on this one, but curious of the best way to clean up the fuel system.
To pretty much redo it. First thing I do on all my old idis. There's several wear seals and just potential headaches
@@groundtogreen1140 Hey Mike I also found some of the injectors were wet. They operate correctly would it be best to just put new seals as long as they’re operating efficiently
@@Celicabryce it's really up to you if they are working as intended. I normally do em on a fresh truck (buy from a reputable source; accurate diesel, Russ repair, R+d idi performance) are my suggestions. I also normally get a spare injection pump rebuilt or set money aside because on my first truck the pump was dead from the start, on the second it only lasted about a year into owning it. The second one thou I think is because the previous owner let diesel sit in it for way too long then ran it through it like 6 years or something.
@@groundtogreen1140 Ahh yeah this one was sitting since 2015, just parked as a new truck was purchased. Runs great, but your probably right don't want to be in there again for a stuck injector. I appreciate you taking the time to give me some pointers. Maybe I'll post a video of the truck, would be fun.
Maybe a stupid question, but what do you call that air intake style? I'd like to upgrade my truck to one like that from the full housing and tiny hose intake that it came with, but I have no idea what its called. Thx in advance for the help
Technically it's not really an upgrade without hood vents as your not getting fresh cold air but any parts store carries em in their "hot rod section" . It was put on by the PO and I just left it.
I have a 1990 IDI motor none turbo 7.3, and wanted remanded to O.E.M.. It has 185,000 miles on. My question is how do I know if there is any cavitation pitting in the block , are should I just have refined , it .
Really no way to know without tearing it down
Mike, silly question but what air cleaner do you have on there? What would the diameter of the opening in the bottom piece be? I like the looks plus I had the same thing on my Dakota. And what size exhaust do you recommend? I probably won't put a turbo on it, so, short story, air cleaner and exhaust size. Thanks.
this one's a K&N air filter cleaner that came with the truck but the edelbrock ones that go on the carbed gas trucks are the same diameter you just have to wollar out the top hole for the intake bolt . messed around any part store to find a tall filter that was compatible I have to look for the part number later. as for the exhaust I have been told 4 inch and larger is the same performance wise just sounds different with bigger obviously
Mike Grn thanks for the info. Got the truck for $500 but needs some tlc. Probably do glow plugs next. I would imagine everything is original. Switched to a Wix fuel filter and using a powerstroke oil filter for the extra quart. Fuel tanks need new pick ups, might just replace entire unit. Fixing stuff as I find it.
I am looking at this 85 6.9 idi and the guy says he thinks he is getting air in the fuel system because it blows some white smoke when he touches the throttle? And help please?
Potentially but could just need a fuel tune-up. Air will usually cause surging while running
Question. If you thought your tach was not reading properly....what device, or what method would you use to get an accurate read on your 7.3 IDI RPM's from the engine and under the hood? I know the sending unit is located on the timing gear housing but is there any possible way to check the RPM's from the engine directly?
There probably is I know some of the aftermarket kits read off of a different external pulley if I remember right but I've never personally tried it.
Your forgetting about the 6.4.. it was the very last international and maxforce combo double turbo. Later years 2010 and later 6.7 came, the bs aluminum motors
Wasn't IDI though.
Hey Mike I have a 93 f350 idi with 124k on it,it runs great,good oil psi..i wana at a turbo any tips or advice would be great.
check out my other vid
MY 6.9 wont even bump start after sitting for a few months, any suggestions? it was hard to start before, and batteries are either bad or dont get charged.
Watch my winter tips video
What is the plastic tank below the left battery for in a 6.9 1986 engine ? Looks like some air-intake tank. Saw it while replacing the heater-core unit..
Gunnar Jensen I'd have to see a pic not sure what your describing
Hello I'm looking for a dip stick for a 7.3l diesel engine. I can't seem to find one anywhere great videos by the way I'm learning a lot about this motor I do not have very much power and a turbo sounds like the right option but first I need a dipstick for this motor please help me locate one thanks
I'm out atm if you have fb hit up john clugston
I have a 1984 F-250 that someone put a old 7.3 in it last winter. I got in a wreck day after Thanksgiving this year. I ran into a tree that took the cab off my truck. I'm having to change out the cab with a gas powered truck and I'm trying to figure out the wires to run the diesel engine in it.
1984 is a solid harness from inside the cab into the firewall all the way forward; it's all one piece. No quick disconnect connectors like the newer years.It's a pain in the butt to swap it. Your body lights will all be the same and if I remember right the speedo is a cable so no worry there but if you want all the individual engine dash sensors, glow plug wiring, etc to work you gotta swap the harness over. There is no new 83-86 diesel harnesses being produced either that I know of. If it was me and my truck I wouldn't worry about the oem sensors and I'd install aftermarket ones, run a push button for the glow plugs, splice in a hot lead for the injection pump fuel shut off solenoid , and high idle solenoid wiring and then finally tie in an internally regulated alternator (several options there). The other option is ; which my buddy did. Snag a universal wiring harness offline and if you or a friend is good with electrical build yourself a better than factory harness with actual fuses vs all the fusible link headaches. If you go the quick route thankfully these engines only need a couple key things to run.
Why are you running two fuel filters and filter heads?
Hello Mr. Green, I came across a 90 ford f250 diesel xlt lariat 7.3. the owner says it needs some work. I've never owned a diesel, so my question is how expensive is it to maintain and repair. this truck will not be a daily driver. mainly HD runs and to the city dump, more than likely taking friends and family to run errands...lol!
at the moment I'm that person, which is why I want a truck. I always hear great things about diesel's but i know nothing about them.
An idi is relatively cheap to repair and maintain but the big problem is most shops are clueless about em so you gotta learn alot of self maintenance at least that's been my experience.
Fleetgaurd SCA prechareged is the coolant to run
Only necessary for the 7.3. If you have the 6.9, you can run regular coolant.
My truck is a 1992 and when I come to a stop it stalls but will run all day in park. Will run the highway but in town it wants to stall. Any help?
Could be air but weird only when ya stop. Definitely would take some trouble shooting. Check all your electrical too like a loose connection that could kill power
Hey Mike I was wondering about your k&n air filter set up. Is there somewhere specific that sells that same set up you got and do you need an adapter to fit it or can you just get it from your local parts store? Thanks for your time.
johnathan booth I have long since deleted this because I changed my turbo but the parts store edelbrock lids work just need to get a taller filter and expand top hole for intake bolt to.fit
Mike Grn Thanks for letting me know. I like the way yours was set up so I asked haha was it worth having it on there at the time?
johnathan booth yes it was very convenient to take on and off and the filters at O'Reilly's were cheap
I have a 1989 7.3 IDI and my tach sensor I think is bad it works but at idle it registers zero so would you think the sensor is no good or are there other problems the motor runs fine
if the motor runs good it'd be the tach sensor or potentially the cluster my 85 tach is off too
Mike Grn hey man I appreciate it
Probably the whole cluster, the wiring isn't that fresh, I imagine.