You are the only vid that i have found in weeks of research on ls1 camaros with this great quality. Thank you. I am going to hopefully be buying one this weekend
Really glad to hear the feedback and I'm glad it was helpful. I sure wish I found something like this when I was in your seat, so I just wanted to give back.
I did the heads, cam, long tube headers, slp loudmouth exhaust, stahl converter , intake manifold, throttle body. Had it tuned and i’m pushing 450 rwhp
Wish the internet had been around when I was a kid over fifty years ago. I did a lot of damage before I could say I was a builder. I was a mechanic of that time but not a builder and headers were something I built myself. Good old JC Whitney catalogs laid all over my garage an out house. I made some very nice looking loud not as fast as thought engines and cars/trucks. Very well put and honest
I can appreciate someone taking the time to make a video that goes through the usual build options and gives some realistic expectations, but there are some major problems with some of this information. The whole section about camshafts is just wrong, and comes from a shallow understanding of what the cam specs are and how they correlate to each other. That’s an extremely complex topic, and anyone seriously researching a cam swap needs to either learn what all of the numbers mean and what they do for performance, or they need to talk with one of the shops that regularly spec cams out for customers. The explanation of LSA numbers is the biggest offense here. That number really has very little to do with how much a cam “chops” at idle. The spec that really tells how rough the idle will be is total valve overlap. There are plenty of smaller cams with a 110 degree LSA that sound almost stock, and there are plenty of monster cams that have a 116 degree LSA that will barely hold an idle. It’s also extremely important to tune the car AFTER the cam and head swap. Tuning before you install those parts is an absolute waste of money, as all of your VE tables and idle parameters will be far different for a stock cam and heads compared to aftermarket parts. Overall, the advice in the video will give some of the newer guys to the LSX platform a good starting point, but please research things before you finalize your plans. This is just one fairly inexperienced LSX enthusiast giving advice out without a solid grasp of why the ideas are good or bad.
I'm late but I agree since I was 15 I've been Gm 1st car ever was a at 15 year old it was a 85 z28 305 ho. 7 more 3-5th gen Camaros 2 lt1 5 ls based cars. I've got one of the fastest 2000 ls based 28 tire true stock suspensions cars in my city an the south region. The things I hear about ls based cars are some of the most false leading information ever told on RUclips an the internet. An some of these guys never own or wk on one single ls car. Its cam heads arp head studs a ls6 intake rt gap piston rings on a stock ls rod rod crank will make a 1000hp by mistake on a stock bottom end small 5.3 motor. So until a person has built own race any motor they have no clue on what they talking bout an leading people wrong.
I can appreciate everything said in this comment, thanks for taking the time to write it, truly. I think your words describes the video well and also points people in the right direction once they have a basic understanding of the topics covered. I'm definitely no pro and admit camshafts numbers are confusing to me, but what I can say is, from trolling RUclips videos and endless ls1tech forums for years and documenting my findings, I found that the general feedback from those owners match what I explained in the video in regards to sound, chop, HP gains and overall drive-ability. I definitely suggest people do their own research. Since I started out knowing nothingggg about modifying an engine, I figured I'd help someone that was in my similar situation with understanding where to start and what to expect. There is still a lottt more to know than what's covered in this video! Again thanks for the feedback man!
I have same camshaft 216 224 .600 lift intake .598 exhaust 112lsa with heads cleaned, relaped valves Manley double valve springs. 25% under driven balancer triy headers with twin 2.5 exhaust no cats. Made 384hp at the wheels. Added a 3k convertor and 3.91 lsd. Car drives awesome.
Wish I would have seen this before building my Camaro! Tons of good info I wish I knew before hand! Live and learn. I'm running 2 1/2 BBK headers cattless Y pile Ls6 intake completely built valve terrain, and a big Ole cam from Texas speed the 5.7 Chop monster. Fully built auto trans with a 3200 stall to go with the cam. And some bigger injectors. It has some issues at the moment but slowly working on it. But when it's at 100 percent that dude rips up the street!
Thankyou for taking your time and efforts by way of informing people how-to and what to expect in gaining more hp from the LS1. I have done 70% of what you've told us with great results equal to what you have explained. You channel is one that i will frequent for updates and info. Again thanks. James.
Thank you so much, I’m in the learning curve of engines and I learned a SHIT TON of information here. Exactly what to do first for best performance on my 02 vette. I will definitely recommend this video for anyone wanting to learn more on their LS1
Hi I just have to agree with all you said, I wish I have seen this video last year! I have a blazer k5 1978 which I consider a family member. The k5 original engine was a small block 350, which is hard to modify as I live in Saudi Arabia so it's hard to get all the parts I need if I want the small block. I went and swaped the engine with a LS1. After sometime I did my research and decided to go for an upgrade: 1- LS3 oil pump 2- Camshaft Kit (223/233 629/629 117 lsa), that includes lifters and timing chain 3- injectors (Fast 36lb) 4- spark plugs (V Power TR6) 5- headers (y pipe without cats) bad idea I agree with you 6- LS3 heads 7- LS3 intake 8- K&N filter 9- Bigger radiator + LS3 fans 10- AEM high flow fuel pump I chose this cam because I want it to be comfortable and not very noisy also I was targeting more torque. I think you were very realistic and I agree with all you mentioned.
Great information brother! I know the base of my next engine build but I’m literally making a list of what options I’m weighing out! This was a HUGE HELP! 🙏🏻
I have a 02 ws6 anniversary and love the car. I started with the drivetrain first. Waiting on the engine work last. New magnum trans and twin disc clutch. Still stock rear end. I did put on a full Kooks long tubes and full exhaust. And also a SLP cold air intake. And 100% agree because one mod follows another which make a weak link in another part. It’s almost endless. But the damn car is fun to drive. I snapped a screen shot of the part list so thank you.
Bro you just saved me , im rebuildin my first project 98 z28 has no motor no trans an ive been doing my homework on how an what to do yo.. an this just helped alot alot an ima be very patient with this build after seeing how much money I need to invest in it so thank u bro
CalypsoNotch408 Driving style? You must be talking about part throttle; timing/fuel tables that aren’t full throttle. Yeah, street tuning is necessary for drivability, but won’t yield the best results for full throttle tunes. A butt dyno is vague and inaccurate for actual full throttle performance numbers. Trap speeds are best for actual real world performance, but is more costly and time consuming. A chassis dyno is the most cost effective method for wringing the most out of a tune... and there’s numbers to back up the gains.
This was a good insightful video. I am still debating of what to actually do to the car. Ls3 heads would be nice , but I have read that you need a 4.00" bore minimum, it may take less effort to just put in an ls3 and build from there. I like the way he did the video. It had many answers to the questions I had in my head. Albeit some info was misconstrued. All and all a decent video.
Head number243. LS1 LS6. Or stuck with your 241 LS1 heads if porting. Once ported there is no difference between 241 & 243. If just planing to bolt on, go with the 243. I have not done, but this is what I've learned while investigating the build myself for my own. Could plane the 241 to raise compression, as the 243 has smaller bowl by 3cc
Just get a full complete exhaust from 🥶 Cold intake all the way to the tail pipes. Meaning: Cold air intake, Ported TB, Ported intake manifold, Cylinder heads, Headers, Flow free cats and full exhaust. And after all of that get a good performance tune. That’s for a daily driver without even cracking the valve covers.
Just got home from wakeboarding, And thought I might have a look to see what it’s going to be like modifying my LS1, Great vid, So much info, Was just kinda distracting with the wake boards in the back haha, But truly thanks, Very very informative
I appreciate your time doing this. I just bought a 1999 SS SLP with 27,000 miles. My first mod is going to be the SLP cold air kit. Next is headers and Y pipe.
@@correywho4299 yes, not all ss and ws6 cars came with slp equipment. And yes but it's extremely restrictive. And people typically choose a y pipe due to clearance. Me on the other hand like to be different so I have an xpipe with a axle dump exhaust. With bullet mufflers. Better performance than a y pipe but less clearance.
@@silverpandaws6230 SLP equipment is basically nothing anyway. They don't put long tubes on those factory "SLP" cars. All it consists of is like an airbox, different wheels, and maybe an Auburn posi 3.42. To the OP don't buy SLP headers they hang too low, there's so many better parts/headers out there then SLP.
I dont reccomend a tune for the first or even second mod. Start with an intake and exhaust. The normal small mods first. Do heads/cam, valve train etc AND THEN do a tune...
I’ve owned 7 3-4th gens my 1st at age 15. My current is my ls base grudge car. The 1st performance mod is opening up the air lid free hp mods exhaust. 2nd heads cam but make sure you have all your bolt ons. Then gears stall drag radios or slicks then suspension an it goes on an on till you are broke
An if you on a budget ls6 intake the stock bottom end holds well. So with a good nos tune 200 wet shot yull be in the 700 to 800hp range . An if a 9inch to much money find a 8.8 it will hold just as grate l. I don’t recommen an x pipe for ls motors y pipe or true dules no cats. An suspension tieing up the chassis due to it being a sub frame car. Adj tq arm solid trans mount stop trans mount braking. An a lot may not agree but if you balling on a budget I’ll go with a max effort cam if you a ls man we all know ls cars love max big cams if you not spending a lot of money on aftermarket heads. I say this couse I’ve done 3 cam swops listening to guys that use to building old school 350s small block motors but the ls based motor are completely different from old old school sbc. If you don’t believe me call talk to rpm vengeance any big ls builder an your mind will be open an changed on what you think an ls motor likes an don’t like
@@johnsalary5188 if you're on a budget you can't do a nos tune or full on diff swaps. Also try to segment your comment when you want to type longer stuff.
Crazy I’m also in Tampa and I’m about to start building my 2000 camaro I’m doing PRC 2.5 Heads, BTR Stage 4 wit springs and pushrods, Slp lid, LS2 Dorman Intake, 92mm Tb, 60LBS injectors, Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump, AN6 fuel lines, jegs fuel rail, long tube headers and speed engineering True dual exhaust Hoping for 450whp or maybe more
I have ported 243s, a ported ls6 intake and a custom grind comp cam and I’m making 430/380 to the wheels. I feel like the price of the PRCs isn’t worth it but that’s just me.
First let me just say this is a superb video. It really is what I believe is the essence of you tube; and that is cataloging and sharing useful knowledge. That is coming from a guy with over 40 years of working on cars. Sometimes I feel like the horse power police because, as you mention in the video guys make claims all the time about horse power. All I can say is; the dyno doesn't lie. When I press these claims of 1600 hp etc. It invariably comes back well er, uh that is an estimate. None of what you say in this video is news to me. Putting it in a format that breaks it down as to how things work together and the compromises that come up is the key. In other words, what works best for your application. For example, do you want to run 8's in the quarter or just make driving to work everyday a bit more fun (by far the vast majority or end users). Having a car that barely idles sucks for everyday use and wouldn't even be legal in many states, especially mine (commiefornia). Building a motor runs into more money than most people think. My brother builds motors for a living and just sent me a picture of a motor he built for a guy and the price tag was $45k and yeah that one really does make 1300hp. It went in a sand car that will never see the pavement and will probably only be used a few times a year. His comment, people are dumb, laughing all the way to the bank. Anyway well done and VERY GOOD ADVICE for anybody thinking about this. One last thought, the 4l60e transmission and the 7.5 in rear axle are not super strong components. They do well because of the light weight of the car. You can modify the trans (most shops won't) but the rear axle is weak, period. The type of build you described, won't overtax these components horribly. My axle started howling at 75k miles and my Camaro is bone stock. So what you mentioned is probably just the luck of the draw and nothing to do with the build. If you told me you broke the ring gear that's another story. The 4l60e may well be your next video. Finally just let me just say A+ on the effort. I don't usually care much for videos that just have some guy talking, yours is definitely the exception, well done!
Excellent info,aim building my 97 Z,it's bone stock,going with a 406 sbc,I'm doing 12 bolt rearend,BMR suspension,and bigger brakes on front,slotted all around.was going to get a 98-02,but I just pay off z,only had two years.and can build a solid, street strip car.you convince me to keep it, instead of going to ls1., Keep videos coming I be following.
Having my engine rebuilt decided to get some long tube headers might as well since the block is out. The 98 Camaro SS it mostly stock but I do plan to change a lot about the car. I appreciate the vid really good info especially since I’ve been working on the car for a year now much love for help 🙌🏻
I got 380 hp on my 06 GTO just with a tune shorty headers, Yella Terra 1.7 roller rockers, Ported throttle body, MSD intake manifold, volant air box, hi flow cats and magnaflow exhaust.
WOW man what a fantastic breakdown..the best yet for the beginners who are trying to get answers..kudos to you sir! For many, (myself included who recently had my 70k perfectly running 98 TA hydrolock and destroy the sleeve on number 7), sadly as of this date June 2019, LS1 and LS6 blocks are not in production and the few that are around still are either super high mileage or worn out due to age or poor maintenance...my first move if doing an ls build "today" would be unless youve got a block and head with under a 100k miles...grab up a stock replacement ATK lq9 long block, switch over the entire ls accessory drive system, cam/spring it, bolt on a fitech ultimate ls, and some nice longtubes, a ls6 valley conversion to lose all the ugly pcv hoses, lose the AIR system completely, ditch the factory ecu and let the fitech learn your personal driving style and adjust..leaving out the sketchy or damaging tunes...but by all means keep that slp lid..the factory thing looks like a 1940s air filter from a dodge truck..lol..cheers from Largo!
i did forged pistons and rods, rocker arms, valve springs, pushrods, lifters, stage 2 pro ls cam, fi-tech intake, stock heads stock crankshaft Aces fuel injection jackpot plug in play kit. pushin about 750hp naturally aspirated. go big or go home😅
Wow $5 grand, please look up crate engines, I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video, I did learn a few things, thanks cheers from Canada.
Great video!! I will add a little bit to what “might” need attention. Fuel pump. Not sure how much HP the stock fuel pump can handle, but I think it’s somewhere in the 450hp range. With 380RWHP, you are close to the limit for both the injectors and pump. Chassis. The stock chassis is not up to the task of extra stress. The unibody design is crap, but it can be strengthened with sub-frames. Highly recommended. I want to do all these mods, but unfortunately, to many’s things have to be done in tandem for everything to work right, without breaking. I’m sick of A-holes in ST Ford Explorers, thinking they are sports cars. Those things are quick! The thing with these F-body’s is the platform is very limited. You would have to replace nearly every part in the drivetrain to support the extra HP once you get close to 400. It seems that 450hp, or 390ish rear wheel HP is about the max limit for everything.
I just got a quote from a shop in Tampa for 3300 cash on a Silverado 5.3 cam , lifters, oil pump, timing chain, springs, 160° thermostat, btr trunion upgrade, pushed and tune. That's everything including labor. that's a lot of money u spent.
Thanks dude this was awesome a lot of help to me I am gonna do annals swapping a 94 GMC short bed with a 6litre and your video was very helpful thanks I be on the watch for your channel
Stumbled across your video and love your content. Trying to so all the same mods on my Silverado SS and this was a big help. Also, Go Bolts, and Go Blues in Game 7
Awesome video!!! I really appreciate the way you laid out all of the information. I am in the market for a 2002 trans am. Now I know what I am getting myself into. Thanks a million brother!!!! I am going start saving now!!!!! Lol
My apologies to Mr Wood. I didn't see your post. I bought a 2001 Trans Am WS6 last November. Paid $11,400 out of Illinois. That's with shipping. My next project is tinting the windows
I have a 2002 Trans Am WS6 Convertible Auto (last year made) with 140,000 miles as it is a 18 yr old car. Since its a WS6 Convertible with a more rare color combo NBM with Tan interior that I can enter in local car shows, and Id like to keep it mostly stock and /or easy to convert back to bone stock. But I also enjoy red light to red light and sometimes local 1/8th grudge runs at the local drag strip, tho this car has not been on it yet. So far all I have is Hypertech Power Programmer (allows change to timing, shift points, gear ratio, tire size, top end mph, ect) and a SLP lid with SLP Smooth Bellow and k&n filter, Tho I like the look of the blue dual snorkel split cone air filters sitting in a open air box from Volant because it looks cool with hood open at car shows (Have not done the cutting of the air box free mod and wont unless I run across another because i want my car to be able to be stock for sale later) Also was thinking about the MAF they make now in colors without the honey comb screens and the slightly bigger 92mm throttle body since my car already came with the LS6 intake manifold. Also plan to add the throttle body coolant bypass as Im in the lower east coast they say it can give you a few HP and its $12...Anyways I think the mods I have or plan to have will add to the looks and give me some HP? (with just what I spoke of what wud you guess?) The other things I plan to do is long tube SS headers into a split cat back exhaust. I currently have a GU6 3:42 trans am non trac control rear end in storage I cud swap and swap back to keep it stock with its current 3:23 but not sure if it will make enough of what Im looking for...Though if my fuel pump goes out I may do the swap since im not cutting the trap door on this car its too nice...Now the Cam...I know nothing about a cam swap and since my car is old with 140 k miles I guess it wudnt just be a easy job since it will need lifters and springs and possible roller rockers, Im sure I can find some used better flowing heads or some port and polish but money is huge factor since im disabled with titanium hips. You spoke of just the work that you did to just give you close to 100 hp being 3K so thats out of my league, I just want a lil bit more power for some street cred from red light to red light..What shud I do?
Yea. Guy up the road from me had an Ls1 Camaro. I slowly stole parts off of it until it wouldnt run anymore. He got pissed and put it in his yard for sale for 2 grand. Offered him 1500 for it and he sold it ... so I got all my parts for 1500$ lol
If I can ask, would getting a bigger torque converter make a big cam more suited for a daily driver? I ask because the chop of a BTR Stage 3 paired with an LS1, is just such a heavenly sound.
I think that the misleading part is not explaining the hp rating. Most manufacturers are listing flywheel Hp rating. A certain amount is lost through the drivetrain, up to 60 hp! So if you really want to know your gain you need to get it run on a dyno first, then do your mods and get it dyno tuned and you'll know for sure what your gain is. Right now I'm running 335 rwhp with my best time of 12.8 in the quarter on stock tires. My mods are slp box slp long tube headers and maf. Also important for hooking up is the addition of subframe connectors, a better torque arm, trailing arms and panhard rod. Then you add the bullit proof rear end of your choice with an upgraded clutch and flywheel.
Yea, I'll just stick to a carburetor setup on my 69 Chevelle. I am totally grateful for this video, and thank you for it. I also respect LS swaps.. but to each their own. If it ain't broke, don't fix. I'm good! :)
Assuming you haven't done a tune post mods, you could probably double that with a good tune, and chip. But, that would probably cost as much as the labor for the mods.
i think that the "big cams have poor driveablity" thing is mainly auto guys that dont have a good torque converter., and not at all a thing for manual guys. I have an Ls2 stock bottom end, stock 243 heads, .660springs, Msd Airforce intake manifold, holley 102mm tb, and 4 inch intake elbow, Long tubes, and a big BTR stage 4 cam (235/242). Running through a T-56 Magnum 6 speed manual. And it literally drives like butter through the city, and everywhere really. It has really smooth power curve, and it made 490wph on a dynojet (so like 430 on a mustang dyno?) also, i have a catless y pipe that just dumps after the trans, and i never smell like gas. i drive it quite often, and so far its been nothing short of awesome and easy!
Thanks for the info, I am considering doing this to my 02 z28. I love the car but it has 100k miles on it. I really want a Dodge challenger 392, but i can not see spending 38k on a vehicle.
If the cylinder head is built to flow the maximum amount of air for that combustion chamber, what good is a port and polish and larger valves do. Unless you increase the chamber size to fit the extra air then there is no point a forced induction is a better option than spending thousands on a ported head
I want you to know that you're helping me out a lot right now and I need more. I have a 1999 Firebird TransAm. It has 147000 miles on it. Had to replace the water pump and fuel pump to get it to run. But started right up, with a jump. But been running great since. But haven't driving it on the road yet because I don't have my license back yet. Just driven it around the trailer park. But it quite until you push the gas, not chopping though. But want it to be faster than what the stock is. Yes it still has the LS1. And don't have a lot of money but I have a year to get it ready. It's going to be a every day car but want to make it beat my home boys charger, yea again I know. That's a lot to do. He has a now one and he can hit like 100 in 4 or 5 seconds. Am I just going to be out guned or what? Let me know what you think if you have the time. If not thanks for the video anyways.
my 350 LT-1 stock 1970 engine is 11-1 compression 485 lift and its a daily driver not radicle at all running solids a little noisy but really great to drive , never over heats mild tune up every year , I guess extreme is diferent for diferent people
Mauricio đ. Great old school engine but you can’t compare it to what he is speaking about at all. Apples to oranges only things they share are that they are chevys and small blocks.
Mauricio đ. Ls1 comes with 500 lift from the factory high lift for ls1 is 600 and up can’t ever run that much lift on the old stuff with out spending a bunch of money can’t compare old stuff to ls stuff
Utah county Picazo's page in reality I believe the lobe lift is very similar between sbc and ls, however the 1.7 rocker ratio plays a big role in the .600+ valve lift numbers on ls cams. Also the larger cam core allows for more gentle ramps allowing better valve train reliability with longer duration cams
Mauricio, you can't compare old blocks to new ones. Ls1 cam stock has more lift than your engine. The same with Torque converters. Back in the 60s an 70s, you put a 3600 stall in and you're not going to daily drive it. It's completely different now, with the technology of the converter and the tuning.
Great video... it’s gonna help me a lot as I try to decide what I want to end up doing to my ls1. Have you looked into boosting an ls1 supercharger prochager turbo? Would like to learn about that I’m sure it would in-tale a complete engine build I just wonder if my aluminum block I have can handle boost
Ls1 with stock heads a 338/242 110 lsa cam at 50° or any cam similar ls7 lifters double valve springs some 7.400 one piece push rod l67 injectors any reasonable otr any reasonable exhaust and a tune you will make over 395 whp all day long
at 5:10 you speak of HP difference in the 1998-2000 ls1 intake. vs the ls6 2001 and 2002 intake but yet they were all rated 305 and only the pre 2000 ws6 vs 2001+ws6 with only 5hp difference at 320 and 325. I thought the 25 hp difference was only for non WS6 ls1 swapping up to the ls6 intake. Where im going with this is if a say 2000 ws6 rated at 320 hp shud not the 2001+ws6 have 345?
You are the only vid that i have found in weeks of research on ls1 camaros with this great quality. Thank you. I am going to hopefully be buying one this weekend
Really glad to hear the feedback and I'm glad it was helpful. I sure wish I found something like this when I was in your seat, so I just wanted to give back.
Bet you broke didn't get it
@@sellinsizzurp most likely
@Echo Drive lame. Lacks character
Sorry but you're an idiot if you listen to this guy
I did the heads, cam, long tube headers, slp loudmouth exhaust, stahl converter , intake manifold, throttle body. Had it tuned and i’m pushing 450 rwhp
What heads
Wish the internet had been around when I was a kid over fifty years ago. I did a lot of damage before I could say I was a builder. I was a mechanic of that time but not a builder and headers were something I built myself. Good old JC Whitney catalogs laid all over my garage an out house. I made some very nice looking loud not as fast as thought engines and cars/trucks. Very well put and honest
Things sure have changed! Thanks for the comment.
I can appreciate someone taking the time to make a video that goes through the usual build options and gives some realistic expectations, but there are some major problems with some of this information.
The whole section about camshafts is just wrong, and comes from a shallow understanding of what the cam specs are and how they correlate to each other. That’s an extremely complex topic, and anyone seriously researching a cam swap needs to either learn what all of the numbers mean and what they do for performance, or they need to talk with one of the shops that regularly spec cams out for customers. The explanation of LSA numbers is the biggest offense here. That number really has very little to do with how much a cam “chops” at idle. The spec that really tells how rough the idle will be is total valve overlap. There are plenty of smaller cams with a 110 degree LSA that sound almost stock, and there are plenty of monster cams that have a 116 degree LSA that will barely hold an idle.
It’s also extremely important to tune the car AFTER the cam and head swap. Tuning before you install those parts is an absolute waste of money, as all of your VE tables and idle parameters will be far different for a stock cam and heads compared to aftermarket parts.
Overall, the advice in the video will give some of the newer guys to the LSX platform a good starting point, but please research things before you finalize your plans. This is just one fairly inexperienced LSX enthusiast giving advice out without a solid grasp of why the ideas are good or bad.
I'm late but I agree since I was 15 I've been Gm 1st car ever was a at 15 year old it was a 85 z28 305 ho. 7 more 3-5th gen Camaros 2 lt1 5 ls based cars. I've got one of the fastest 2000 ls based 28 tire true stock suspensions cars in my city an the south region. The things I hear about ls based cars are some of the most false leading information ever told on RUclips an the internet. An some of these guys never own or wk on one single ls car. Its cam heads arp head studs a ls6 intake rt gap piston rings on a stock ls rod rod crank will make a 1000hp by mistake on a stock bottom end small 5.3 motor. So until a person has built own race any motor they have no clue on what they talking bout an leading people wrong.
I can appreciate everything said in this comment, thanks for taking the time to write it, truly.
I think your words describes the video well and also points people in the right direction once they have a basic understanding of the topics covered.
I'm definitely no pro and admit camshafts numbers are confusing to me, but what I can say is, from trolling RUclips videos and endless ls1tech forums for years and documenting my findings, I found that the general feedback from those owners match what I explained in the video in regards to sound, chop, HP gains and overall drive-ability.
I definitely suggest people do their own research. Since I started out knowing nothingggg about modifying an engine, I figured I'd help someone that was in my similar situation with understanding where to start and what to expect. There is still a lottt more to know than what's covered in this video!
Again thanks for the feedback man!
I have same camshaft 216 224 .600 lift intake .598 exhaust 112lsa with heads cleaned, relaped valves Manley double valve springs. 25% under driven balancer triy headers with twin 2.5 exhaust no cats. Made 384hp at the wheels. Added a 3k convertor and 3.91 lsd. Car drives awesome.
Wish I would have seen this before building my Camaro! Tons of good info I wish I knew before hand! Live and learn. I'm running 2 1/2 BBK headers cattless Y pile Ls6 intake completely built valve terrain, and a big Ole cam from Texas speed the 5.7 Chop monster. Fully built auto trans with a 3200 stall to go with the cam. And some bigger injectors. It has some issues at the moment but slowly working on it. But when it's at 100 percent that dude rips up the street!
Thanks for making this video bro it's not to many up to date video's on the LS1 👍💯
Thankyou for taking your time and efforts by way of informing people how-to and what to expect in gaining more hp from the LS1.
I have done 70% of what you've told us with great results equal to what you have explained.
You channel is one that i will frequent for updates and info.
Again thanks.
James.
I appreciate the feedback, and I'm glad it helped!
@@tampabaybuilds6825 Your kindly welcome, look forward to more of your informative posts.
Thank you so much, I’m in the learning curve of engines and I learned a SHIT TON of information here. Exactly what to do first for best performance on my 02 vette. I will definitely recommend this video for anyone wanting to learn more on their LS1
Hi
I just have to agree with all you said, I wish I have seen this video last year!
I have a blazer k5 1978 which I consider a family member. The k5 original engine was a small block 350, which is hard to modify as I live in Saudi Arabia so it's hard to get all the parts I need if I want the small block. I went and swaped the engine with a LS1. After sometime I did my research and decided to go for an upgrade:
1- LS3 oil pump
2- Camshaft Kit (223/233 629/629 117 lsa), that includes lifters and timing chain
3- injectors (Fast 36lb)
4- spark plugs (V Power TR6)
5- headers (y pipe without cats) bad idea I agree with you
6- LS3 heads
7- LS3 intake
8- K&N filter
9- Bigger radiator + LS3 fans
10- AEM high flow fuel pump
I chose this cam because I want it to be comfortable and not very noisy also I was targeting more torque.
I think you were very realistic and I agree with all you mentioned.
Thanks for the feedback!
Great information brother! I know the base of my next engine build but I’m literally making a list of what options I’m weighing out! This was a HUGE HELP! 🙏🏻
I have a 02 ws6 anniversary and love the car. I started with the drivetrain first. Waiting on the engine work last. New magnum trans and twin disc clutch. Still stock rear end. I did put on a full Kooks long tubes and full exhaust. And also a SLP cold air intake. And 100% agree because one mod follows another which make a weak link in another part. It’s almost endless. But the damn car is fun to drive. I snapped a screen shot of the part list so thank you.
Mechanics around the world thank you .
21:31 for list of parts and cost
Kyle Noel hero’s don’t always wear capes
Great video for new F-body owners like myself, very understandable.
Thanks for your info. I hear too much bs that I never get good answers. The cam part really helps.
Bro you just saved me , im rebuildin my first project 98 z28 has no motor no trans an ive been doing my homework on how an what to do yo.. an this just helped alot alot an ima be very patient with this build after seeing how much money I need to invest in it so thank u bro
Very welcome!
Thanks for doing this, nice to get a consumer daily driver perspective, great details!
A tune is most effective after mods are done. A dyno tune from a reputable tuner will always make more power than a mail in or generic.
CalypsoNotch408
Driving style? You must be talking about part throttle; timing/fuel tables that aren’t full throttle. Yeah, street tuning is necessary for drivability, but won’t yield the best results for full throttle tunes.
A butt dyno is vague and inaccurate for actual full throttle performance numbers. Trap speeds are best for actual real world performance, but is more costly and time consuming. A chassis dyno is the most cost effective method for wringing the most out of a tune... and there’s numbers to back up the gains.
This was a good insightful video. I am still debating of what to actually do to the car. Ls3 heads would be nice , but I have read that you need a 4.00" bore minimum, it may take less effort to just put in an ls3 and build from there. I like the way he did the video. It had many answers to the questions I had in my head. Albeit some info was misconstrued. All and all a decent video.
Head number243. LS1 LS6. Or stuck with your 241 LS1 heads if porting. Once ported there is no difference between 241 & 243. If just planing to bolt on, go with the 243. I have not done, but this is what I've learned while investigating the build myself for my own. Could plane the 241 to raise compression, as the 243 has smaller bowl by 3cc
Just get a full complete exhaust from 🥶 Cold intake all the way to the tail pipes. Meaning: Cold air intake, Ported TB, Ported intake manifold, Cylinder heads, Headers, Flow free cats and full exhaust. And after all of that get a good performance tune.
That’s for a daily driver without even cracking the valve covers.
Just got home from wakeboarding, And thought I might have a look to see what it’s going to be like modifying my LS1, Great vid, So much info, Was just kinda distracting with the wake boards in the back haha,
But truly thanks, Very very informative
Did you ever end up modding it?
Also you still wakeboarding?
I appreciate your time doing this. I just bought a 1999 SS SLP with 27,000 miles. My first mod is going to be the SLP cold air kit. Next is headers and Y pipe.
Awesome stuff! Enjoy and happy modding :)
G4 Off road if it’s an SLP Car doesn’t it already have that? And the cars come Stock with a Y pipe don’t they?
@@correywho4299 yes, not all ss and ws6 cars came with slp equipment. And yes but it's extremely restrictive. And people typically choose a y pipe due to clearance. Me on the other hand like to be different so I have an xpipe with a axle dump exhaust. With bullet mufflers. Better performance than a y pipe but less clearance.
@@silverpandaws6230 SLP equipment is basically nothing anyway. They don't put long tubes on those factory "SLP" cars. All it consists of is like an airbox, different wheels, and maybe an Auburn posi 3.42. To the OP don't buy SLP headers they hang too low, there's so many better parts/headers out there then SLP.
I dont reccomend a tune for the first or even second mod. Start with an intake and exhaust. The normal small mods first. Do heads/cam, valve train etc AND THEN do a tune...
yes, tune very very last.
you should do the tune and the cam at the same time.
I’ve owned 7 3-4th gens my 1st at age 15. My current is my ls base grudge car. The 1st performance mod is opening up the air lid free hp mods exhaust. 2nd heads cam but make sure you have all your bolt ons. Then gears stall drag radios or slicks then suspension an it goes on an on till you are broke
An if you on a budget ls6 intake the stock bottom end holds well. So with a good nos tune 200 wet shot yull be in the 700 to 800hp range . An if a 9inch to much money find a 8.8 it will hold just as grate l. I don’t recommen an x pipe for ls motors y pipe or true dules no cats. An suspension tieing up the chassis due to it being a sub frame car. Adj tq arm solid trans mount stop trans mount braking. An a lot may not agree but if you balling on a budget I’ll go with a max effort cam if you a ls man we all know ls cars love max big cams if you not spending a lot of money on aftermarket heads. I say this couse I’ve done 3 cam swops listening to guys that use to building old school 350s small block motors but the ls based motor are completely different from old old school sbc. If you don’t believe me call talk to rpm vengeance any big ls builder an your mind will be open an changed on what you think an ls motor likes an don’t like
@@johnsalary5188 if you're on a budget you can't do a nos tune or full on diff swaps.
Also try to segment your comment when you want to type longer stuff.
Good video. It’s hard to find true information nowadays. Thank you for putting this out.
Crazy I’m also in Tampa and I’m about to start building my 2000 camaro I’m doing PRC 2.5 Heads, BTR Stage 4 wit springs and pushrods, Slp lid, LS2 Dorman Intake, 92mm Tb, 60LBS injectors, Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump, AN6 fuel lines, jegs fuel rail, long tube headers and speed engineering True dual exhaust
Hoping for 450whp or maybe more
I have ported 243s, a ported ls6 intake and a custom grind comp cam and I’m making 430/380 to the wheels. I feel like the price of the PRCs isn’t worth it but that’s just me.
Great vid, I like how you covered parts ,price ,& reason!
First let me just say this is a superb video. It really is what I believe is the essence of you tube; and that is cataloging and sharing useful knowledge. That is coming from a guy with over 40 years of working on cars. Sometimes I feel like the horse power police because, as you mention in the video guys make claims all the time about horse power. All I can say is; the dyno doesn't lie. When I press these claims of 1600 hp etc. It invariably comes back well er, uh that is an estimate. None of what you say in this video is news to me. Putting it in a format that breaks it down as to how things work together and the compromises that come up is the key. In other words, what works best for your application. For example, do you want to run 8's in the quarter or just make driving to work everyday a bit more fun (by far the vast majority or end users). Having a car that barely idles sucks for everyday use and wouldn't even be legal in many states, especially mine (commiefornia). Building a motor runs into more money than most people think. My brother builds motors for a living and just sent me a picture of a motor he built for a guy and the price tag was $45k and yeah that one really does make 1300hp. It went in a sand car that will never see the pavement and will probably only be used a few times a year. His comment, people are dumb, laughing all the way to the bank. Anyway well done and VERY GOOD ADVICE for anybody thinking about this. One last thought, the 4l60e transmission and the 7.5 in rear axle are not super strong components. They do well because of the light weight of the car. You can modify the trans (most shops won't) but the rear axle is weak, period. The type of build you described, won't overtax these components horribly. My axle started howling at 75k miles and my Camaro is bone stock. So what you mentioned is probably just the luck of the draw and nothing to do with the build. If you told me you broke the ring gear that's another story. The 4l60e may well be your next video. Finally just let me just say A+ on the effort. I don't usually care much for videos that just have some guy talking, yours is definitely the exception, well done!
I really appreciate the feedback!
Wow this is perfect, I just bought an LS1 Camaro recently and i need this
Some ppl do videos this was ah class bro..💪🏿💪🏿 I’m looking to ls swap my Malibu wagon... 🔥🔥🔥
Thinking about picking up a C5, so this video is very helpful
Dope video. You built yours exactly how I plan to build mine. Thank you for some guidance!
Great info, I’ve looked into the exact same upgrades for my 99 and you did confirm much of what I’ve read and also learned a bit so ty
Excellent info,aim building my 97 Z,it's bone stock,going with a 406 sbc,I'm doing 12 bolt rearend,BMR suspension,and bigger brakes on front,slotted all around.was going to get a 98-02,but I just pay off z,only had two years.and can build a solid, street strip car.you convince me to keep it, instead of going to ls1., Keep videos coming I be following.
Sounds like its gonna be a beast! Good luck with the build.
Thanks for watching!
I think I’ve already told you before, but this was and is a great video man. Really helping me.
Having my engine rebuilt decided to get some long tube headers might as well since the block is out. The 98 Camaro SS it mostly stock but I do plan to change a lot about the car. I appreciate the vid really good info especially since I’ve been working on the car for a year now much love for help 🙌🏻
I got 380 hp on my 06 GTO just with a tune shorty headers, Yella Terra 1.7 roller rockers, Ported throttle body, MSD intake manifold, volant air box, hi flow cats and magnaflow exhaust.
Vert informative, especially for a new LS1 owner
Maybe someone has already pointed it out,but you have forgotten the SLP Lit.
On summit it is about 400 bucks.
Great video,lots of useful informations.
Now that’s how u give out info .great job bro I’m sucking all this info up like a sponge
Great video! Truly filled in the blanks for me. Thanks again!
I've never had a "gas smell" with any O/R setup I've owned. I think some people on the forums are a bit sensitive.
Thanx dude..have a ls1 slp sitting in the garage for four years now..time to get it out.. ss with slp bty
Thanks for the advice . This video is the best i have seen on ls1 mod .
good video..i to live in tampa bay..and have one sweet 04 corvette with a large cam 3500 stall all the mods..it's one hot LS1..stay safe out there...
Travis Hearon it's puting 428 rwhp
Very informative and easy to understand thanks you have a new subscriber
Would like to see a discussion on how to maximize reliability.
Yo what happened to this channel?? Think I’ve watched this one video about 8 times now with my ls1 build. Cheers for all the help mate 🇦🇺
And def shoulda went 1 3/4 on the LTs and prob a step colder on the plugs. And used dollar copper ones at that.
Ls swapping a 3rd gen Camaro. took some usefull notes thanks
WOW man what a fantastic breakdown..the best yet for the beginners who are trying to get answers..kudos to you sir! For many, (myself included who recently had my 70k perfectly running 98 TA hydrolock and destroy the sleeve on number 7), sadly as of this date June 2019, LS1 and LS6 blocks are not in production and the few that are around still are either super high mileage or worn out due to age or poor maintenance...my first move if doing an ls build "today" would be unless youve got a block and head with under a 100k miles...grab up a stock replacement ATK lq9 long block, switch over the entire ls accessory drive system, cam/spring it, bolt on a fitech ultimate ls, and some nice longtubes, a ls6 valley conversion to lose all the ugly pcv hoses, lose the AIR system completely, ditch the factory ecu and let the fitech learn your personal driving style and adjust..leaving out the sketchy or damaging tunes...but by all means keep that slp lid..the factory thing looks like a 1940s air filter from a dodge truck..lol..cheers from Largo!
i did forged pistons and rods, rocker arms, valve springs, pushrods, lifters, stage 2 pro ls cam, fi-tech intake, stock heads stock crankshaft Aces fuel injection jackpot plug in play kit. pushin about 750hp naturally aspirated. go big or go home😅
Great job explaining!
I have an LS1, I hear replacing the heads with LS3 heads is a good way to go. With proper intake and exhaust of course
Ls3 heads don’t fit ls1’s
Wow $5 grand, please look up crate engines, I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video, I did learn a few things, thanks cheers from Canada.
Definitely A Great Informative Video Anwsered Alot of Questions
Great video!! I will add a little bit to what “might” need attention.
Fuel pump. Not sure how much HP the stock fuel pump can handle, but I think it’s somewhere in the 450hp range. With 380RWHP, you are close to the limit for both the injectors and pump.
Chassis. The stock chassis is not up to the task of extra stress. The unibody design is crap, but it can be strengthened with sub-frames. Highly recommended.
I want to do all these mods, but unfortunately, to many’s things have to be done in tandem for everything to work right, without breaking.
I’m sick of A-holes in ST Ford Explorers, thinking they are sports cars. Those things are quick!
The thing with these F-body’s is the platform is very limited. You would have to replace nearly every part in the drivetrain to support the extra HP once you get close to 400. It seems that 450hp, or 390ish rear wheel HP is about the max limit for everything.
It’s a 25 year old car wat do expect lol , when it come down to power,looks,price,and reliability nothings really doing it better than the f-body
I just got a quote from a shop in Tampa for 3300 cash on a Silverado 5.3 cam , lifters, oil pump, timing chain, springs, 160° thermostat, btr trunion upgrade, pushed and tune. That's everything including labor. that's a lot of money u spent.
he did head, headers, and exhaust also still a lot tho
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Lovin the shirt. I live in Orlando, i try to make 3 games a year. But covid has things shut down. Nice Camaro. Stay healthy
Easy way to explain is get as much air in as fast as you can and get exhaust out even faster. 👍
Thanks dude this was awesome a lot of help to me I am gonna do annals swapping a 94 GMC short bed with a 6litre and your video was very helpful thanks I be on the watch for your channel
Make the same video for Transmission & Rear End costs!
I just might do that. Thanks for the suggestion! In the meantime, if you have any questions about the cost I'm happy to help out.
Stumbled across your video and love your content. Trying to so all the same mods on my Silverado SS and this was a big help. Also, Go Bolts, and Go Blues in Game 7
great video!!! i know what to do to my ls1 now
Awesome video!!! I really appreciate the way you laid out all of the information. I am in the market for a 2002 trans am. Now I know what I am getting myself into. Thanks a million brother!!!! I am going start saving now!!!!! Lol
I have a 2002 Firehawk for sell, already has longtubes full 3" duel exhaust, never drive it, on a scale of 10 it's a 8 . $16,000
I have a bone stock ws6 t/a how much have you saved?
My apologies to Mr Wood. I didn't see your post. I bought a 2001 Trans Am WS6 last November. Paid $11,400 out of Illinois. That's with shipping. My next project is tinting the windows
@@martiniusetihw where you located in IL. im in IN.
@@martiniusetihw my bad you had it shipped.
I have a 2002 Trans Am WS6 Convertible Auto (last year made) with 140,000 miles as it is a 18 yr old car. Since its a WS6 Convertible with a more rare color combo NBM with Tan interior that I can enter in local car shows, and Id like to keep it mostly stock and /or easy to convert back to bone stock. But I also enjoy red light to red light and sometimes local 1/8th grudge runs at the local drag strip, tho this car has not been on it yet. So far all I have is Hypertech Power Programmer (allows change to timing, shift points, gear ratio, tire size, top end mph, ect) and a SLP lid with SLP Smooth Bellow and k&n filter, Tho I like the look of the blue dual snorkel split cone air filters sitting in a open air box from Volant because it looks cool with hood open at car shows (Have not done the cutting of the air box free mod and wont unless I run across another because i want my car to be able to be stock for sale later) Also was thinking about the MAF they make now in colors without the honey comb screens and the slightly bigger 92mm throttle body since my car already came with the LS6 intake manifold. Also plan to add the throttle body coolant bypass as Im in the lower east coast they say it can give you a few HP and its $12...Anyways I think the mods I have or plan to have will add to the looks and give me some HP? (with just what I spoke of what wud you guess?) The other things I plan to do is long tube SS headers into a split cat back exhaust. I currently have a GU6 3:42 trans am non trac control rear end in storage I cud swap and swap back to keep it stock with its current 3:23 but not sure if it will make enough of what Im looking for...Though if my fuel pump goes out I may do the swap since im not cutting the trap door on this car its too nice...Now the Cam...I know nothing about a cam swap and since my car is old with 140 k miles I guess it wudnt just be a easy job since it will need lifters and springs and possible roller rockers, Im sure I can find some used better flowing heads or some port and polish but money is huge factor since im disabled with titanium hips. You spoke of just the work that you did to just give you close to 100 hp being 3K so thats out of my league, I just want a lil bit more power for some street cred from red light to red light..What shud I do?
If I spent $5500 and only got 80 hp I would be PISSED
Kevin Clement that’s why I stole all my parts
@@thedragon356 LOL, I hear ya :)
@@drumguy1960 that's why you go the Sloppy Mechanics way
Yea. Guy up the road from me had an Ls1 Camaro. I slowly stole parts off of it until it wouldnt run anymore. He got pissed and put it in his yard for sale for 2 grand. Offered him 1500 for it and he sold it ... so I got all my parts for 1500$ lol
@@hoyt_arms if you really done that your a piece of trash scum bag
If I can ask, would getting a bigger torque converter make a big cam more suited for a daily driver? I ask because the chop of a BTR Stage 3 paired with an LS1, is just such a heavenly sound.
I appreciate your time! Thank you!
I think that the misleading part is not explaining the hp rating. Most manufacturers are listing flywheel
Hp rating. A certain amount is lost
through the drivetrain, up to 60 hp!
So if you really want to know your gain you need to get it run on a dyno first, then do your mods and get it dyno tuned and you'll know for sure what your gain is. Right now I'm running 335 rwhp with my best time of 12.8 in the quarter on stock tires. My mods are slp box slp long tube headers and maf. Also important for hooking up is the addition of subframe connectors, a better torque arm, trailing arms and panhard rod. Then you add the bullit proof rear end of your choice with an upgraded clutch and flywheel.
Thank for honest info , and no bs👍
If you aren't running a turbo or supermarket you may want to change your pistons for more compression.
This tutorial is quite helpfull, It has grand value as a bad example.
You're from my city that's good.
Awesome video bro, thank you very much.
Bought an Atk, HP 97, went way up in horse power and TORQUE. 385 pluse and 390 plus torque. 3189.00
wow. Maybe I won't upgrade my Vette then until I'm ready to do the whole thing.
Very good info man, thumbs up!!!
Great true honest advice! But I think he got beat over the head in labor tho.😅
Yea, I'll just stick to a carburetor setup on my 69 Chevelle. I am totally grateful for this video, and thank you for it. I also respect LS swaps.. but to each their own. If it ain't broke, don't fix. I'm good! :)
ok boomer keep your carb lmao
@@chadrichards8930 I'm not against LS1's, I am just a period correct kind of guy.
Assuming you haven't done a tune post mods, you could probably double that with a good tune, and chip. But, that would probably cost as much as the labor for the mods.
Chip? Really? These are not the ecms that you have the "chips" replaced, you have them tuned.
i think that the "big cams have poor driveablity" thing is mainly auto guys that dont have a good torque converter., and not at all a thing for manual guys. I have an Ls2 stock bottom end, stock 243 heads, .660springs, Msd Airforce intake manifold, holley 102mm tb, and 4 inch intake elbow, Long tubes, and a big BTR stage 4 cam (235/242). Running through a T-56 Magnum 6 speed manual. And it literally drives like butter through the city, and everywhere really. It has really smooth power curve, and it made 490wph on a dynojet (so like 430 on a mustang dyno?) also, i have a catless y pipe that just dumps after the trans, and i never smell like gas.
i drive it quite often, and so far its been nothing short of awesome and easy!
Throw a wang tang spinny thang on it and call it a day
Thanks for the info, I am considering doing this to my 02 z28. I love the car but it has 100k miles on it. I really want a Dodge challenger 392, but i can not see spending 38k on a vehicle.
What transmission is on the z28?
100k miles is nothing man, make mood to et
K&N. Funniest part of the video.
Honestly for me if it’s a daily, exhaust, intake, cam, some gears
If the cylinder head is built to flow the maximum amount of air for that combustion chamber, what good is a port and polish and larger valves do. Unless you increase the chamber size to fit the extra air then there is no point a forced induction is a better option than spending thousands on a ported head
I want you to know that you're helping me out a lot right now and I need more. I have a 1999 Firebird TransAm. It has 147000 miles on it. Had to replace the water pump and fuel pump to get it to run. But started right up, with a jump. But been running great since. But haven't driving it on the road yet because I don't have my license back yet. Just driven it around the trailer park. But it quite until you push the gas, not chopping though. But want it to be faster than what the stock is. Yes it still has the LS1. And don't have a lot of money but I have a year to get it ready. It's going to be a every day car but want to make it beat my home boys charger, yea again I know. That's a lot to do. He has a now one and he can hit like 100 in 4 or 5 seconds. Am I just going to be out guned or what? Let me know what you think if you have the time. If not thanks for the video anyways.
48 likes 0 dislikes...this must know his shit. Will watch his video now.
my 350 LT-1 stock 1970 engine is 11-1 compression 485 lift and its a daily driver
not radicle at all running solids a little noisy but really great to drive ,
never over heats mild tune up every year , I guess extreme is diferent for diferent people
Mauricio đ. Great old school engine but you can’t compare it to what he is speaking about at all. Apples to oranges only things they share are that they are chevys and small blocks.
Mauricio đ. Ls1 comes with 500 lift from the factory high lift for ls1 is 600 and up can’t ever run that much lift on the old stuff with out spending a bunch of money can’t compare old stuff to ls stuff
Utah county Picazo's page in reality I believe the lobe lift is very similar between sbc and ls, however the 1.7 rocker ratio plays a big role in the .600+ valve lift numbers on ls cams. Also the larger cam core allows for more gentle ramps allowing better valve train reliability with longer duration cams
Mauricio, you can't compare old blocks to new ones. Ls1 cam stock has more lift than your engine. The same with Torque converters. Back in the 60s an 70s, you put a 3600 stall in and you're not going to daily drive it. It's completely different now, with the technology of the converter and the tuning.
Thank you this is helpful!
Also 92mm throddle body might help breathing. Non the less good stuff.
Great video... it’s gonna help me a lot as I try to decide what I want to end up doing to my ls1. Have you looked into boosting an ls1 supercharger prochager turbo? Would like to learn about that I’m sure it would in-tale a complete engine build I just wonder if my aluminum block I have can handle boost
I will attest. I have an off road Y pipe and the gas smell is stong af
Ls1 with stock heads a 338/242 110 lsa cam at 50° or any cam similar ls7 lifters double valve springs some 7.400 one piece push rod l67 injectors any reasonable otr any reasonable exhaust and a tune you will make over 395 whp all day long
Thanks for the Great Information Bro
at 5:10 you speak of HP difference in the 1998-2000 ls1 intake. vs the ls6 2001 and 2002 intake but yet they were all rated 305 and only the pre 2000 ws6 vs 2001+ws6 with only 5hp difference at 320 and 325. I thought the 25 hp difference was only for non WS6 ls1 swapping up to the ls6 intake. Where im going with this is if a say 2000 ws6 rated at 320 hp shud not the 2001+ws6 have 345?
WATCH!! My heads and Fti cam! On my 4th gen Camaro I smoked a newer bolt on 5.0 by a couple cars!!!
Dope video left with good knowledge