Just changed mine. No need to pull the pulley and all the other radiator parts it you have the pulley with the holes in it like you do. Just rotate the pulley until the hole lines up with the bolt. Use a short ratchet extension. Takes less than 30 minutes R&R. Hope this helps.
No, it's not possible to do it the way you mentioned. The pulley has an interference fit with the brackets and prevents the pump from being removed. If it was that easy, I would have done that instead.
so i have a 1988 power ram same set i am replacing rt nw. just wish i could see more seeing ya take it actually off but i knw its hard to do with a camera in hand but its helping thanks for video
If you have a 239 v6, it's not terribly difficult once you get the pulley off. There are two bolts holding the rear bracket on that need to be loosened (but not removed unless you want a massive oil leak), and then you'll just need to remove the bolts holding the pump to the brackets and the hoses; At which point the whole pump will slide down towards the driver side tire. On some vehicles, there is a third bracket present that goes from the bottom of the drivers side cylinder head to the power steering pump, but mine didn't have that (though the mounting holes did exist for it.) You'll not want to mess with the front bracket because some of the bolt holes around the water pump have coolant running by them and you could end up contaminating your engine oil with coolant. If you did loosen these, I highly recommend doing an oil change before starting the engine because you could end up with massive engine damage. Yeah apologies for the junk video, I don't have a great camera and was a bit preoccupied trying to clean up the power steering fluid mess because the pump fell out of the bracket when I was trying to juggle the camera. You may notice the pavement is wet later in the video because I had to hose down the driveway.
8:30. You seem to have the same hose as I do on my '87. two metal rings with the o-ring after the 2nd metal ring. The replacement part has just 1 ring and is 5mm shorter. Does not seem like it would make a seal. I could just give the new part a try, but I'd struggle to get the other half off, and I'm afraid to round the nut. I've done a couple days of wd40 and whacking and scrubbing, but it won't budge. Curious. Did you ever have to replace that hose? If I knew the new part would work I could cut the old and use a socket on it. Thanks!
You need a special tool, commonly called a "crows foot" to get at the nut on the fitting going into the rack. I had to replace my high pressure hose a few months ago because the rubber line split at the crimp where it meets the metal line. I don't remember what size it was, so you'll just have to buy a kit of them. They're relatively cheap on Amazon. Getting any sort of normal wrench in there is impossible in my experience, without damaging something.
Yeah the first gen Dakotas were crappy designs, but I've come to love mine despite her being an expensive troublesome mistress. If you need help with any other system in your truck, I've torn mine apart end to end and worked on basically every system and know just about everything that can go wrong with them. I'll be happy to help if you need it.
Cool thanks... replacing the water pump and thermo stat. First vehicle I've had to completely dismantle to get to the pump. If you got any suggestions or anything to look out for or replace while I'm in there I would appreciate it. Just got the other units dismantled and will be looking for the remaining bracket bolts tonight.
@@michaelfagerland8391 If you're replacing the pump, it's not that much farther to replace the timing chain, I'd do that as well and use a double roller chain, the stock Mopar chain looks like something off a bicycle. I'd also recommend replacing all of the long bolts with new grade 8 bolts because some of them are directly exposed to coolant and tend to get corroded. Getting the correct length bolts can be a bit of a pain, I had to use slightly longer bolts in places and a stack of washers to make up the length. When you sandwich the pump and timing chain cover back together, be absolutely sure everything is 100% sealed. Scrape all of the old gaskets off of the mating surfaces and the front of the engine block and ensure everything is flat. If the timing chain cover is warped or pitted, replace it. If you have a coolant leak, it's very possible that it will end up in the engine oil and you can kiss your crank bearings goodbye. And absolutely do not crank down on the bolts holding the timing chain cover and water pump or you risk rupturing the gasket and causing a coolant leak. Only use hand ratchets and tighten them by hand to be an even firmness. The book says something like 30 lb/f but in my experience, you'll waste the gasket long before then. When I did that job, I did everything by hand and it lasted for years until the oil pump failed on the freeway and trashed the lower end.
Here with an update. Manages to get everything ripped out till I got to the bolts holding the thermostat in place. Barely got the first bolt out (combination of cast and die set along with an extractor socket) felt accomplished till the second bolt clean broke off... finally got to the thermostat so can put everything back but will have to cut and die the thermostat cover. Still under $150 for tools and replacement parts so I'm hoping I can coax that bolts shaft out and get back on the road with this old beast for under $200 wish me luck cause it's going to the junkyard otherwise =D ( not worth the investment for what I paid for it originally) cheers!
@@michaelfagerland8391 hah, I had that happen the first time I took the thermostat housing off, it took me a week to get that damn thing out, but I didn't have access to a welder back then. What I recommend that will save you a whole lot of trouble is to weld a nut to the end of the bolt, wait until it cools off or shock cool it with water so the bolt loosens up in the threads and then carefully twist it out. Rock it back and forth gently until it frees up and then bathe it in your favorite lube and gently turn it out the rest of the way. Make sure you fill the nut up with weld to get as good of a bite on the broken bolt as possible. A flux wire welder works fine, not sure if a stick welder would also work. Walmart sells a cheap shitty stick welder that works in a pinch for around $100. When installing new bolts, use anti-seize and you'll never have the problem again.
Sir whats the thing looks like an ac pump its just above the power steering pump? I picked up a 1988 dakota and it doesnt have a belt to it my heat, ac, and stuff works curious what that ones for
It's an air pump for emissions. It blows air into a Y pipe at the back of the engine which connects to a small port on the rear of each exhaust header. Another pipe goes around the engine and back to the catalytic converter. If the air pump is missing, make sure the ports on the exhaust header are plugged, as well as the catalytic converter to avoid exhaust leaks into the cab.
You managed to edit out about 90% of the important parts. Lol. Bracket configuration, removal, instillation, whether to use threadlocker on bracket bolts, etc etc.
@@MrCoolkylebeans Loosen up the bolts and slide the power steering pump towards the timing cover. Without looking, I can't remember if the top or bottom bolt is a swing adjustment, but it will swing towards the cover enough where you can get the belt loose. You can get the belt off and on without taking the fan off, you just have to guide it around the blades.
@@nobody_j5112 If you have V belts like mine, the alternator is held in by two bolts, you'll need to loosen but not take them off. Once you have the bolts loose, there's a long tensioning bolt above the alternator pointing to the A/C compressor threaded through an eye on the top of the alternator. You'll want to mark the position of the bolt with a silver sharpie or white paint, and then start loosening the bolt from the side. It's either a 1/2" or 13mm head. Once you loosen the tensioning bolt up enough, you'll be able to slide the V belts off. Now that you have the belts off, you can unscrew the wires from the back of the alternator, slide those off and then undo the two bolts on the front the rest of the way to pull the alternator off. One gotcha you may have is that one of the ears on the alternator will have a guide pin to keep the proper tension between the front accessory bracket and the back. The new alternator will almost certainly have this in the wrong place, so you'll have to use a vise and hammer to adjust it. Just be sure you support the ear when pressing the guide or you'll snap the ear off. I opened the vise large enough for the pin to drop in and supported the ear on both sides when I set mine. Measure the old pin before you turn it in for the core charge to get the new one in the right place.
You did the really hard way to remove that.under do the two bolts and one nut the bottom one doesn't go all the way through. Loosen the top bolt of the back of bracketdo not take it all the way out leave at most of an otherwise you will be adding antifreeze. take the bottom back bracket bolt all the way out pull up on it slide out the power steering pump take off the pulley reverse the procedure
As I have already stated, the pulley has an interference fit with the front bracket, it is not possible to slide it out without removing it, at least on my truck. I tried to do that before having to go through all of this trouble. There is also a real danger of contaminating the engine oil with coolant if the bolts on the timing cover are loosened too much, and I didn't want to have to deal with that nightmare.
@@GGigabiteM that's why I mentioned you undo the back bracket from the engine because my truck is exactly the same as yours but if you undo the back bracket you slide the bracket and slide the pump out past the front you have to pull the back do that otherwise you're absolutely right you have to go the way you did it
@@stevenbeacham6004 The pulley has an interference fit with the front bracket, what part of this did you miss? It doesn't matter if you completely remove the back bracket, the pulley won't allow the power steering pump to be removed because the back side of the pulley is concave and the front bracket protrudes into that space. What works on your truck does not work on mine.
Just changed mine. No need to pull the pulley and all the other radiator parts it you have the pulley with the holes in it like you do. Just rotate the pulley until the hole lines up with the bolt. Use a short ratchet extension. Takes less than 30 minutes R&R. Hope this helps.
No, it's not possible to do it the way you mentioned. The pulley has an interference fit with the brackets and prevents the pump from being removed. If it was that easy, I would have done that instead.
Awesome video 💪🏽
so i have a 1988 power ram same set i am replacing rt nw. just wish i could see more seeing ya take it actually off but i knw its hard to do with a camera in hand but its helping thanks for video
If you have a 239 v6, it's not terribly difficult once you get the pulley off. There are two bolts holding the rear bracket on that need to be loosened (but not removed unless you want a massive oil leak), and then you'll just need to remove the bolts holding the pump to the brackets and the hoses; At which point the whole pump will slide down towards the driver side tire.
On some vehicles, there is a third bracket present that goes from the bottom of the drivers side cylinder head to the power steering pump, but mine didn't have that (though the mounting holes did exist for it.)
You'll not want to mess with the front bracket because some of the bolt holes around the water pump have coolant running by them and you could end up contaminating your engine oil with coolant. If you did loosen these, I highly recommend doing an oil change before starting the engine because you could end up with massive engine damage.
Yeah apologies for the junk video, I don't have a great camera and was a bit preoccupied trying to clean up the power steering fluid mess because the pump fell out of the bracket when I was trying to juggle the camera. You may notice the pavement is wet later in the video because I had to hose down the driveway.
A gentleman and a scholar. Thank you
8:30. You seem to have the same hose as I do on my '87. two metal rings with the o-ring after the 2nd metal ring. The replacement part has just 1 ring and is 5mm shorter. Does not seem like it would make a seal. I could just give the new part a try, but I'd struggle to get the other half off, and I'm afraid to round the nut. I've done a couple days of wd40 and whacking and scrubbing, but it won't budge.
Curious. Did you ever have to replace that hose? If I knew the new part would work I could cut the old and use a socket on it. Thanks!
You need a special tool, commonly called a "crows foot" to get at the nut on the fitting going into the rack. I had to replace my high pressure hose a few months ago because the rubber line split at the crimp where it meets the metal line.
I don't remember what size it was, so you'll just have to buy a kit of them. They're relatively cheap on Amazon.
Getting any sort of normal wrench in there is impossible in my experience, without damaging something.
@@GGigabiteM Yeah I need an 18mm flare end crowsfoot. those look great.
Good work!
Saved my ass with this video only one I could find that navigates the trash design of this vehicle thanks for the awesome how to
Yeah the first gen Dakotas were crappy designs, but I've come to love mine despite her being an expensive troublesome mistress.
If you need help with any other system in your truck, I've torn mine apart end to end and worked on basically every system and know just about everything that can go wrong with them. I'll be happy to help if you need it.
Cool thanks... replacing the water pump and thermo stat. First vehicle I've had to completely dismantle to get to the pump. If you got any suggestions or anything to look out for or replace while I'm in there I would appreciate it. Just got the other units dismantled and will be looking for the remaining bracket bolts tonight.
@@michaelfagerland8391 If you're replacing the pump, it's not that much farther to replace the timing chain, I'd do that as well and use a double roller chain, the stock Mopar chain looks like something off a bicycle.
I'd also recommend replacing all of the long bolts with new grade 8 bolts because some of them are directly exposed to coolant and tend to get corroded. Getting the correct length bolts can be a bit of a pain, I had to use slightly longer bolts in places and a stack of washers to make up the length.
When you sandwich the pump and timing chain cover back together, be absolutely sure everything is 100% sealed. Scrape all of the old gaskets off of the mating surfaces and the front of the engine block and ensure everything is flat. If the timing chain cover is warped or pitted, replace it.
If you have a coolant leak, it's very possible that it will end up in the engine oil and you can kiss your crank bearings goodbye.
And absolutely do not crank down on the bolts holding the timing chain cover and water pump or you risk rupturing the gasket and causing a coolant leak. Only use hand ratchets and tighten them by hand to be an even firmness. The book says something like 30 lb/f but in my experience, you'll waste the gasket long before then.
When I did that job, I did everything by hand and it lasted for years until the oil pump failed on the freeway and trashed the lower end.
Here with an update. Manages to get everything ripped out till I got to the bolts holding the thermostat in place. Barely got the first bolt out (combination of cast and die set along with an extractor socket) felt accomplished till the second bolt clean broke off... finally got to the thermostat so can put everything back but will have to cut and die the thermostat cover. Still under $150 for tools and replacement parts so I'm hoping I can coax that bolts shaft out and get back on the road with this old beast for under $200 wish me luck cause it's going to the junkyard otherwise =D ( not worth the investment for what I paid for it originally) cheers!
@@michaelfagerland8391 hah, I had that happen the first time I took the thermostat housing off, it took me a week to get that damn thing out, but I didn't have access to a welder back then.
What I recommend that will save you a whole lot of trouble is to weld a nut to the end of the bolt, wait until it cools off or shock cool it with water so the bolt loosens up in the threads and then carefully twist it out. Rock it back and forth gently until it frees up and then bathe it in your favorite lube and gently turn it out the rest of the way.
Make sure you fill the nut up with weld to get as good of a bite on the broken bolt as possible. A flux wire welder works fine, not sure if a stick welder would also work. Walmart sells a cheap shitty stick welder that works in a pinch for around $100.
When installing new bolts, use anti-seize and you'll never have the problem again.
Sir whats the thing looks like an ac pump its just above the power steering pump? I picked up a 1988 dakota and it doesnt have a belt to it my heat, ac, and stuff works curious what that ones for
It's an air pump for emissions. It blows air into a Y pipe at the back of the engine which connects to a small port on the rear of each exhaust header. Another pipe goes around the engine and back to the catalytic converter.
If the air pump is missing, make sure the ports on the exhaust header are plugged, as well as the catalytic converter to avoid exhaust leaks into the cab.
You managed to edit out about 90% of the important parts. Lol. Bracket configuration, removal, instillation, whether to use threadlocker on bracket bolts, etc etc.
I didn't edit out anything, what you see is what was filmed.
If you want to be an asshole, you can figure it out yourself.
@@GGigabiteM well how did you remove the belt lol
@@MrCoolkylebeans Loosen up the bolts and slide the power steering pump towards the timing cover. Without looking, I can't remember if the top or bottom bolt is a swing adjustment, but it will swing towards the cover enough where you can get the belt loose.
You can get the belt off and on without taking the fan off, you just have to guide it around the blades.
How do you take the belt off to replace the alternator I have a 1990 Dakota
@@nobody_j5112 If you have V belts like mine, the alternator is held in by two bolts, you'll need to loosen but not take them off.
Once you have the bolts loose, there's a long tensioning bolt above the alternator pointing to the A/C compressor threaded through an eye on the top of the alternator. You'll want to mark the position of the bolt with a silver sharpie or white paint, and then start loosening the bolt from the side. It's either a 1/2" or 13mm head.
Once you loosen the tensioning bolt up enough, you'll be able to slide the V belts off. Now that you have the belts off, you can unscrew the wires from the back of the alternator, slide those off and then undo the two bolts on the front the rest of the way to pull the alternator off.
One gotcha you may have is that one of the ears on the alternator will have a guide pin to keep the proper tension between the front accessory bracket and the back. The new alternator will almost certainly have this in the wrong place, so you'll have to use a vise and hammer to adjust it. Just be sure you support the ear when pressing the guide or you'll snap the ear off. I opened the vise large enough for the pin to drop in and supported the ear on both sides when I set mine. Measure the old pin before you turn it in for the core charge to get the new one in the right place.
You did the really hard way to remove that.under do the two bolts and one nut the bottom one doesn't go all the way through.
Loosen the top bolt of the back of bracketdo not take it all the way out leave at most of an otherwise you will be adding antifreeze.
take the bottom back bracket bolt all the way out pull up on it slide out the power steering pump take off the pulley reverse the procedure
As I have already stated, the pulley has an interference fit with the front bracket, it is not possible to slide it out without removing it, at least on my truck. I tried to do that before having to go through all of this trouble.
There is also a real danger of contaminating the engine oil with coolant if the bolts on the timing cover are loosened too much, and I didn't want to have to deal with that nightmare.
@@GGigabiteM that's why I mentioned you undo the back bracket from the engine because my truck is exactly the same as yours but if you undo the back bracket you slide the bracket and slide the pump out past the front you have to pull the back do that otherwise you're absolutely right you have to go the way you did it
@@stevenbeacham6004 The pulley has an interference fit with the front bracket, what part of this did you miss?
It doesn't matter if you completely remove the back bracket, the pulley won't allow the power steering pump to be removed because the back side of the pulley is concave and the front bracket protrudes into that space.
What works on your truck does not work on mine.
@@GGigabiteM I guess your 88 Dakota is completely different than my 88 Dakota
@@stevenbeacham6004 Yeah, you probably don't have an engine bay layout from an 89 and a 8.25 rear end from a 95.