I use bushings in my router table all the time. It is a great way to make a shallow tray. The wood is supported by the entire table so no rocking with the bit on unsupported templates. Also there is no wood shavings because my dust collection box around the router deal with the shavings. Thanks Colin, good content.
WWW, your page is such an inspiration! I used to post a lot of how to videos on my page before I went deaf. Because of creators like you i recently decided to start uploading content again even though my audio may not be up to par like it used to be. Just like you I love to teach people new things! Thank you!
Great info as always Colin! Bushings are indeed a nice addition for any router. Varing the depth of cut is also important when doing any type of routing & I am sure that you have or will discuss this in your next video.................... :)
I'm here because I've just got my first router. To go with it, I also bought a half inch 15 piece bit kit, with various bits from 4.8mm to 38mm. I was pleased to see that the shanks were marked, not only showing the depth for inserting into the collet but also the maximum rpm for the bit. I do have one question, though. Why, in God's name, can't manufacturers decide which system of measurement they want to use. 1/2" shank; mm diameters? It reminds me of conversations we had when UK went metric :- Customer : I need some 4x2 please. Supplier : We're metric now. D'you mean 100x50? Customer : Yes! 100mmx50mm (sigh) Supplier : D'you want 6ft or 8ft lengths? Customer : Do you mean 1.800m or 2.400m? Supplier : No! We only sell 6ft or 8ft lengths of 100x50. Cutomer : ??????????????
Yea another awesome video from you Sir. My 0l' Craftman Router is almost as old as I am, he-he. It just has an 0N - 0FF switch on it. Its been a good one for shore.....I bought it and a Metal Router Table altogether for it.
Colin, couple of things. I bought a Porter Cable dovetail jig. I have trouble with the supplied bushings coming loose during routing. Per some other suggestions seen elsewhere, I now use teflon plumber's tape to keep them secure. As to router speed, if you buy Whiteside bits, the envelope they come in has suggested speeds depending on the diameter of the bit's cutting head.
Excellent video Colin. What's your experience on Tracksaw blade finish v's Router Straight Bit cutter finish? Have you did a video on this yet? The quality and power of the machines? Quality of the saw blades and amount of teeth? V's Quality of router cutters and how many passes on the materials to get through.. Say 12mm or half inch MDF or other materials? The setting up of the machine times to make the same cut? Any tare out or not? And how much tare out if any? I asked another chanel the same question on RUclips ("Peter Millard" 10 minute workshop) He uses MDF a lot and festool tracksaw and does a pretty good finish. Haven't heard any feedback on this yet. Would be interesting to see a demo Head to Head time motion & quality. I've never had the need for a tracksaw I've always used routers to get that quality finish. If I thought a saw blade could replicate the finish you get with a straight bit kitchen cutter on the router I'd have bought a tracksaw a long long time ago. I don't own a tracksaw and never used one but I have got plenty of routers and router bits and no need to dress the cut edges with sandpaper or a planer.
Good tips I would like to say for router bits from my understanding the bigger bits are extended farther from the 1/4 1/2 shaft so basically the further away the bit extends from the shaft the faster its actual spinning.
Yup! say that the router with the round-over bit (assume 1") is spinning at 20k rpm, the raised panel bit, maybe 3", at the same router speed setting of 20k rpm would have a leading edge traveling at 3x the speed of the round-over bit. (Circumference is 2*pi*r or just pi*d, the ratio of the diameters of the bits would similarly give the ratio of their speeds). [Also, sorry for bumping an old comment!]
The makers of the larger diameter bits (sold as sets usually) recommend certain router speeds because the speed at the outer edge vs the speed at the inner edge of the bit causes problems. Always read the specifications provided by the maker is my rule of thumb.
To determine best speed you can always test on scrap piece of same wood type before using it on final piece to see if it burns or has tear out. Once you find the best result on scrap then use that speed on final piece.
I can't say I have ever really found a use for them. I just use a bit with a top mounted bearing. Is there a time where that wouldn't work and a bushing would?
You may want to consider a centering bit/cone to adjust for any looseness in the router base plate or the bushing holder. The cutting bit needs to be dead center in the bushing opening.
So glad I caught you talking about the speed of the routers. Need your help or maybe from others that had this trouble. Got some beautiful wood from Rockler, called ROSEWOOD. Also got two new bits, but as soon as the blade starts in, it will start to burn the wood. Turn it as low as I can or turn it all the way up, and I get burns. Been using routers for many years, but never had this type of trouble. This is the first I ever used ROSEWOOOD, is there something I need to use on the wood or blades before using a router? Please, can you help.
Router bit suggested speed is determined by the rim speed of the router bit. At the same speed a small diameter bit will have a slower rim speed that a larger diameter bit. The cutting speed of a router bit is determined in inches per second travel of the furthermost cutting edge of the bit. For example a 7.25" saw blade will have a slower rim speed than a 10" saw blade both turning at 5000 RPM. There is also the matter of dealing with leverage: small diameter blades/bits exert less leverage against the motor than larger blades/bits do. This is why some weak table saws will cut better with a smaller blade.
Reply to Ed Waggoner’s comment about tip speed: For drilling carbon steel in a drill press that number is 6” / second, do you know what the number is for router bits?
Collin, Thank you for your time and the education. That is a an excellent video version of those familiar books titled " The Idiots Guide to Whatever " in this case, it was wood router bushings and router speeds. No offense meant thats a compliment. It was simplistically brilliant explanation for a laymen like myself. I learned a-lot. Thank you again. However I have a question. when using a bushing. don't I have to compensate for the gap / distance of the actual gap between the wall of the bushing and the actual point of contact with the material of the bit. Does my question make sense. it appears there will be a very slight difference because of that minute distance. Do you always need a bushing ? when do you want to use one
I am new to routering as a friend gave me a Sears router and bits and my question is that I want to make picture frames and the groove for the backing. What bit do you use to make the groove ?
What you call a butterfly or a bowtie is commonly referred to as a dutchman. And I agree with the other commenters who would rather see you do it, as opposed to talk about it. Good info though, and a topic that isn't discussed enough.
I feel dumb asking but much of my router bits of average size do not go deep enough to even use the guide bushing. Otherwise my collet hits the bushing. A collet extension is too large for it to fit through largest size guide bushing. It's been quite frustrating to say the least. I keep buying bits I can't use for this purpose. When I'm using a template, I also to have to make sure to clear the template as well, so not thicker than 1/4 inch. I'm trying to make bowls. Thanks.
Hi Colin,very informative video. why wouldn't one use a bit with a bearing for guidance instead of a bit with a bushing. It seems like adding the bearings in the mix just complicates things.
So where cutting out a worktop for a sink, for instance, you wouldn't make a template from the sink & use the plunge on your router in conjunction with a bush then travelling along the inside of the template? How does that work with a bearing?
I noticed that the bowtie you made is smaller than your template. Can you flush trim a template using bushings? I think bearings are designed to flush trim, not bushings.
Must be me, I still don't see what they're for! Cutting smaller things than your template? I haven't found one video on here that explains what you would use them for. I'm probably missing something obvious. Any explanation appreciated.
You've got the right idea. It makes a slightly smaller version of whatever your template is. It allows you to trace along a template to make as many reproductions of a particular shape as you would like and they will all be exactly the same, as opposed to trying to make the shapes freehand.
My first time i had a terrible time making my cut turn outright, that is when i found out there were rules to using those, i almost threw them away, glad i didn`t
Simplest way is to think about bushing like its bearing on bit. You put template over wood, select right bushing, and there you go. It let you use any bit like bearing guided bit
@@befmx31 it'll make the hole or cut smaller than the template by the size of the gap between the bushing and the bit, you just take that distance into account when making the template. Another option if you want them exactly the same as the template is to put the template below what you want to cut, then use a flush cut bit with a bearing on the end and run around the template
Nice video. Dovetails are useless and a complete waste of time. If you have bits with ballbearings you pretty much never need bushings. 1/2" bits make no sense since the advantage they offer is not necessary in a router: torque. You need rpm, not torque and that's why I think 8mm bits are the best ones.
I use bushings in my router table all the time. It is a great way to make a shallow tray. The wood is supported by the entire table so no rocking with the bit on unsupported templates. Also there is no wood shavings because my dust collection box around the router deal with the shavings. Thanks Colin, good content.
Colin can't thank you enough for sharing your woodworking knowledge and skill. You're a great teacher and your videos are most appreciated.
WWW, your page is such an inspiration! I used to post a lot of how to videos on my page before I went deaf. Because of creators like you i recently decided to start uploading content again even though my audio may not be up to par like it used to be. Just like you I love to teach people new things! Thank you!
Thanks Colin for this video I finally learned something that I find useful regarding the bushings!
Thank you Colin! Very informative and helpful!
Thanks for the video. Your info helped me clarify and under stand the idea behind using a template bit.
fantastic explanation, thank you Colin
Colin Never fails to teach us all something, Many heartfelt thanks from the 🇬🇧 Colin my friend,👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
You're welcome, David! Thanks for watching.
Wow I've never seen different colored Router bits before. Those look cool!! The ones that we have at school are basically Scarlet.
Good video Colin! Thank you for sharing it with us.👍😎JP
Nicely explained, thank you.
Your explanations are never presumptive. Excellent simple explanations, great for novices like me, thanks
Thank you! You answered several questions I always wondered about.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Very useful information -- thank you!
Thank you Colin. I think the router is a fantastic tool. As I’m novice that’s good information.
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Thanks Colin I just subscribed love how you go into detail making it simple for us to understand. Merry Christmas GOD bless you & this chanel.
Good advice 👍
Thank you for yrs teaching , i learned 👍🏼👍🏼
Tnx soo much for this..i’m just starting woodworking and i had been watching most of your informative and detailed video..more power to you sir..
Great info as always Colin! Bushings are indeed a nice addition for any router. Varing the depth of cut is also important when doing any type of routing & I am sure that you have or will discuss this in your next video.................... :)
Yup, that will be sometime in the near future. Thanks for watching!
Good explaining, I got it from your vdo. thankss..
As ever Colin great tips easily explained. Cheers, Huw
Thank You!
I'm here because I've just got my first router. To go with it, I also bought a half inch 15 piece bit kit, with various bits from 4.8mm to 38mm. I was pleased to see that the shanks were marked, not only showing the depth for inserting into the collet but also the maximum rpm for the bit.
I do have one question, though. Why, in God's name, can't manufacturers decide which system of measurement they want to use. 1/2" shank; mm diameters?
It reminds me of conversations we had when UK went metric :-
Customer : I need some 4x2 please.
Supplier : We're metric now. D'you mean 100x50?
Customer : Yes! 100mmx50mm (sigh)
Supplier : D'you want 6ft or 8ft lengths?
Customer : Do you mean 1.800m or 2.400m?
Supplier : No! We only sell 6ft or 8ft lengths of 100x50.
Cutomer : ??????????????
Great upload....you explained it very well sir, thank you !
You're Welcome!
Thanks Colin .....
You're Welcome!
Yea another awesome video from you Sir. My 0l' Craftman Router is almost as old as I am, he-he.
It just has an 0N - 0FF switch on it. Its been a good one for shore.....I bought it and a Metal Router Table altogether for it.
They sure don't make them like they used to! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for another great video full of good information! Best regards from Florianopolis, Brazil!
Thanks for watching!
COOL!
Thank You!
Very Cool router bushings Sir an thanks for the knowledge. I need to get me a set of thesis bushings for my router.
Snap.
Thanks for watching!
Nice job with the video.
Thank You!
Colin, couple of things. I bought a Porter Cable dovetail jig. I have trouble with the supplied bushings coming loose during routing. Per some other suggestions seen elsewhere, I now use teflon plumber's tape to keep them secure. As to router speed, if you buy Whiteside bits, the envelope they come in has suggested speeds depending on the diameter of the bit's cutting head.
Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching!
Thanks
You're Welcome!
Excellent video Colin.
What's your experience on Tracksaw blade finish
v's
Router Straight Bit cutter finish?
Have you did a video on this yet?
The quality and power of the machines?
Quality of the saw blades and amount of teeth?
V's
Quality of router cutters and how many passes on the materials to get through.. Say 12mm or half inch MDF or other materials?
The setting up of the machine times to make the same cut?
Any tare out or not? And how much tare out if any?
I asked another chanel the same question on RUclips
("Peter Millard" 10 minute workshop)
He uses MDF a lot and festool tracksaw and does a pretty good finish.
Haven't heard any feedback on this yet.
Would be interesting to see a demo Head to Head time motion & quality.
I've never had the need for a tracksaw I've always used routers to get that quality finish.
If I thought a saw blade could replicate the finish you get with a straight bit kitchen cutter on the router I'd have bought a tracksaw a long long time ago.
I don't own a tracksaw and never used one but I have got plenty of routers and router bits and no need to dress the cut edges with sandpaper or a planer.
Good tips I would like to say for router bits from my understanding the bigger bits are extended farther from the 1/4 1/2 shaft so basically the further away the bit extends from the shaft the faster its actual spinning.
Yup! say that the router with the round-over bit (assume 1") is spinning at 20k rpm, the raised panel bit, maybe 3", at the same router speed setting of 20k rpm would have a leading edge traveling at 3x the speed of the round-over bit. (Circumference is 2*pi*r or just pi*d, the ratio of the diameters of the bits would similarly give the ratio of their speeds). [Also, sorry for bumping an old comment!]
The makers of the larger diameter bits (sold as sets usually) recommend certain router speeds because the speed at the outer edge vs the speed at the inner edge of the bit causes problems. Always read the specifications provided by the maker is my rule of thumb.
Yes, details are sometimes on the package. Thanks for watching!
@@knecht105 the tip of a 3" bit will be doing over 200mph at full speed - scary!
Great stuff. Will need to get some bushings.
Thanks for watching!
I use my plunge router with them bushings :)
Hey Colin great video. Can you point me in the right direction to make a router plate for templates? I have an old craftsmen. Thanks
To determine best speed you can always test on scrap piece of same wood type before using it on final piece to see if it burns or has tear out. Once you find the best result on scrap then use that speed on final piece.
I can't say I have ever really found a use for them. I just use a bit with a top mounted bearing. Is there a time where that wouldn't work and a bushing would?
Woodworkers Guild of America (WWGOA) published a PDF file entitled, "Speed Chart - Router Table Essentials". Very useful and informative.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Although some of them, we have Kreg Router bits (I think).
You may want to consider a centering bit/cone to adjust for any looseness in the router base plate or the bushing holder. The cutting bit needs to be dead center in the bushing opening.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
👍👍👍
So glad I caught you talking about the speed of the routers. Need your help or maybe from others that had this trouble. Got some beautiful wood from Rockler, called ROSEWOOD. Also got two new bits, but as soon as the blade starts in, it will start to burn the wood. Turn it as low as I can or turn it all the way up, and I get burns. Been using routers for many years, but never had this type of trouble. This is the first I ever used ROSEWOOOD, is there something I need to use on the wood or blades before using a router? Please, can you help.
👍
Router bit suggested speed is determined by the rim speed of the router bit. At the same speed a small diameter bit will have a slower rim speed that a larger diameter bit. The cutting speed of a router bit is determined in inches per second travel of the furthermost cutting edge of the bit. For example a 7.25" saw blade will have a slower rim speed than a 10" saw blade both turning at 5000 RPM. There is also the matter of dealing with leverage: small diameter blades/bits exert less leverage against the motor than larger blades/bits do. This is why some weak table saws will cut better with a smaller blade.
I like your watch
Thank You!
Can you tell us about your watch it is cool
Should I use a 1/4 inch upcut spiral bit wit a 1/4" ID guide bushing? There seems to be clearance, and it doesn't rub
Reply to Ed Waggoner’s comment about tip speed: For drilling carbon steel in a drill press that number is 6” / second, do you know what the number is for router bits?
Collin, Thank you for your time and the education. That is a an excellent video version of those familiar books titled " The Idiots Guide to Whatever " in this case, it was wood router bushings and router speeds. No offense meant thats a compliment. It was simplistically brilliant explanation for a laymen like myself. I learned a-lot. Thank you again. However I have a question. when using a bushing. don't I have to compensate for the gap / distance of the actual gap between the wall of the bushing and the actual point of contact with the material of the bit. Does my question make sense. it appears there will be a very slight difference because of that minute distance. Do you always need a bushing ? when do you want to use one
I am new to routering as a friend gave me a Sears router and bits and my question is that I want to make picture frames and the groove for the backing. What bit do you use to make the groove ?
What you call a butterfly or a bowtie is commonly referred to as a dutchman. And I agree with the other commenters who would rather see you do it, as opposed to talk about it. Good info though, and a topic that isn't discussed enough.
Thanks for watching!
I feel dumb asking but much of my router bits of average size do not go deep enough to even use the guide bushing. Otherwise my collet hits the bushing. A collet extension is too large for it to fit through largest size guide bushing. It's been quite frustrating to say the least. I keep buying bits I can't use for this purpose. When I'm using a template, I also to have to make sure to clear the template as well, so not thicker than 1/4 inch. I'm trying to make bowls. Thanks.
Hi Colin,very informative video. why wouldn't one use a bit with a bearing for guidance instead of a bit with a bushing. It seems like adding the bearings in the mix just complicates things.
So where cutting out a worktop for a sink, for instance, you wouldn't make a template from the sink & use the plunge on your router in conjunction with a bush then travelling along the inside of the template? How does that work with a bearing?
Is one or six the fastest speed?
I noticed that the bowtie you made is smaller than your template. Can you flush trim a template using bushings? I think bearings are designed to flush trim, not bushings.
I'm sure that's good advice but my expensive Triton router doesn't have variable speed.
My router bits keep destroying the guide surrounding it. What am I doing wrong?
Must be me, I still don't see what they're for! Cutting smaller things than your template? I haven't found one video on here that explains what you would use them for. I'm probably missing something obvious. Any explanation appreciated.
You've got the right idea. It makes a slightly smaller version of whatever your template is. It allows you to trace along a template to make as many reproductions of a particular shape as you would like and they will all be exactly the same, as opposed to trying to make the shapes freehand.
My first time i had a terrible time making my cut turn outright, that is when i found out there were rules to using those, i almost threw them away, glad i didn`t
Yes, they can take a bit to learn. But, once you get used to them, they work great.
I'm confused by bushings, a short demo would have been useful. I know you said you will go into more detail in another video.
I agree
Simplest way is to think about bushing like its bearing on bit. You put template over wood, select right bushing, and there you go. It let you use any bit like bearing guided bit
@@gritz8927 but the bushing only allows you to make a copy of something BIGGER than the template. Is that correct?
@@befmx31 it'll make the hole or cut smaller than the template by the size of the gap between the bushing and the bit, you just take that distance into account when making the template. Another option if you want them exactly the same as the template is to put the template below what you want to cut, then use a flush cut bit with a bearing on the end and run around the template
Demo's to come in a future video. There was just too much content for just one video. Thanks for watching!
My router goes to 11 !!!
:-D
"Basically" = drink
Nice video.
Dovetails are useless and a complete waste of time.
If you have bits with ballbearings you pretty much never need bushings.
1/2" bits make no sense since the advantage they offer is not necessary in a router: torque. You need rpm, not torque and that's why I think 8mm bits are the best ones.
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