Lug nuts? We were riding down a main thoroughfare in my mom's 1954 Hudson Wasp, when the front wheel falls off and rolls to the other side of the street, before finally falling to a stop. My dad, who had worked on the car that morning, apparently just "snuggled the lug nuts a little bit" (possibly accidentally on purpose) as you suggested was all they'd need. Lug nuts need tightening.
Thanks for the tutorial. I was looking for something just like this and you delivered. I just got a 2.25 hp dewalt router with plunge base package for my birthday, and I’ve never used a router before, so seeing all the stuff in the package was a little overwhelming. Things make A LOT more sense now. Sincerely appreciate this video. It goes over the very basics in a very clear and helpful way. Perfect for us newbies.
Thanks for the video, this is an important step for setting up your router for using certain jigs. You might get even better results if you lock the router height before tightening the sub-base screws. That way nothing can shift. Thanks again for posting.
@@liambaker1597 On my centering cone, it will slide up and down on the 1/2" shank. So if you get the height of the router close and lock it, you can still press the cone against the sub base. Then just tighten the screws. Centering cones aren't my favorite, but they do work if you're careful. Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Oh I see, tbh I prefer adjusting the router than moving the cone up and down. And btw, which centering cone do you use? I was looking at these Dewalt and Bosch centering cones but both of their cones are made of plastic and some reviews say after several uses the plastic becomes wobbly
@@liambaker1597 I use a centering mandrel that fits inside a specific guide bushing. Similar items come with inlay bushing kits. I just find centering cones unreliable in general. If I had a turned brass one, I might trust it more. My plastic cone has never become loose, but since it's molded plastic and not turned metal, I don't think it's totally accurate. Thanks
Thanks, i have a 30mm template for MFT holes (20mm) , i have a Bosch POF 1400 with that click bush system from out factory, not centered at all, so i printed a plate with a 30 mm OD bush in one plate and centered it with a cone and it came out precise with some tweaks (screws), so thanks for your knowledge and great explanation.
Thank you!. I had been thru a few routers before I made it to these. These suit me well for my work. I could go bigger to a 3+ hp if I wanted to do bigger work. But, I'm not making cabinetry.
Thanks for this informative demo. I think it’s fair to point out that your centering pin is from the Jasper base kit intended for fill-size routers but happens to work in the 1/4” collet of the DeWalt compact router. DeWalt sells a different centering cone that you use to center the base hole, without the bushing installed. I guess the presumption is that if the base is centered, the bushing will be, too. Would like to see you demo this configuration.
Wow! Thank you so much! Now I can make Lexan templates on my small CNC, then use them to make wooden gears, octagons, etc. out of wood. Duh... why didn't I think of this before?! My little Makita router can now make near-CNC quality wood parts!
Gary - love your channel - one add to this video that might help someone. Maybe your German Festool-using viewers won't have the issue I'm describing, but I'm willing to bet any adjustable base (fixed or plunge) on the big-box Chinese throw-away routers most of us use will benefit. I own 'one of each' brand and they all have this issue. What I've learned the hard way is you'd better lock whatever clamp locks your depth before finalizing your centering (I noticed on the video you left yours unlocked on the little DeWalt). On my routers at least, locking that clamp DOES change the orientation of the motor relative to the base... on mine its >.010-.015" which is plenty enough to wreck the cut, or to make an otherwise "tight enough" joint not go together properly. It also makes a difference if your base is almost all the way out when you're "centering" but much closer to the collet when running. So - in addition to locking the base before finalizing the position of the base plate, it also helps to do the centering as close to the depth you'll actually be using to make the cut (if you can - on my trim router there's no room so I have to have it extended way farther than it will be when running) Anyway hope that helps someone. You can get cheap tools to produce good work, but it takes a little extra fiddling. Glad to see you back in action - here's to a great 2019 !
I was going to mention the fact that by locking the base first you do get final locked position for centering but Tioga Fretworks worded that so very well and I agree with his explanation 100%. I think failure to first lock base first before tightening screws would not give you as accurate results. Thanks for your great video.
Hi Gary. Thanks for the useful video. I have these same two routers so this was helpful. Question: does the same process work for the plunge base on the Dewalt? Also, are you using the original base plate for your Dewalt fixed base? Mine is not round like yours, but D-shaped instead.
I too have the same Dewalt router. I followed your instructions, but I have a Powertec Brass Router Bushing set. It doesn't come with a centering pin. Anyway, I have a question, I want to do an inlay, but if I put the 3/4" straight router bit in the router, the bottom of the bit is a fixed distance from the base plate, 1 1/2", I can't figure out what to do, since my inlay is only 1/4".
Thank you! I have not done inlay before. I use guide bushings mostly for making signs. See if I understand your question correctly. Can you adjust the depth of your router bit if you're trying to get a 1/4" deep cut? Nost base plates will let you adjust depth. You may put your bit in deeper in the collett but not seated all the way in. That would make it hard to get out and it wouldn't set straight or could come loose due to the shoulder on the bit.
Thank you! I would suggest searching any of the major woodworking vendors, such as Rockler, Woodcraft, etc. If you don't find what you are looking for, send them an email inquiry. They can usually point you in the right direction.
@@jaimegenovajr3257 Thanks. It says on the package near the top that it fits the Porter Cable bushing. ". . . to use Porter Cable style guide bushings." Use the link in the video description to see that.
Thank you! The DeWalt base comes with that router. My instruction/user guide doesn't give a parts list. The guide bushings are at this link Woodriver 10 Piece Brass Router Bushing Set With Case Porter*Cable compatible amzn.to/2HWDRx0
Thank you! Sometimes we change the base plate to use other types for different purposes such as: circle jigs, pattern trimming (similar to template cutting but the bearing on the bit follows the pattern whereas the bit on a bushing doesn't use bearings), in a router table we typically use bearing bits too, and other specialty jigs we sometimes use. Thanks!
I have followed your steps on my Ryobi router and have difficulty, I have blown out 4 bushings and am left with just the hole , no collar. I did center, and used a 1/4 bit in a 1/4 collar with a 5/16 outer dia. . Is is the operator or the machine at fault ? thanks
Thank you! Are your bushing guides coming loose? If so, take a look at this video for getting them tight easily. ruclips.net/video/Fy-Cpogkv8E/видео.html
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts bit and bushing are tight, but it appears my sliders for the plunge have a little sway/play in them.Could I be going sideways to hard? 5/8 deep in spruce 2x4
If you're hogging out 5/8" depth in one pass, that is probably too much. I would suggest no less than 3 passes of 3/16" per pass. Or 2 passes at 1/4" deep and the 3rd of 1/8" deep. Thanks!
@@suspensefulness Thanks. I'm not familiar with the Powertec guide bushings. But if they are compatible with the Porter*Cable bushings, it should work. From what I see online, it should work.
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts All links should be coloured BLUE to indicate that they are functioning links. Read down through your text and you will notice that MOST of your references to other sites are not blue and so, do not work. Alternatively, I notice that I cannot copy any of the text either in order to do a copy and paste into my browser.
@@Tinker1950 Thanks for your suggestions. I notice some links are in blue and some are not. Perhaps that's a good indicator for me to find broken links. I will look into that on all my videos. I appreciate letting me know of broken links. 👍
Thank you! The cuts were in my early videos. I do better in later videos. I address that to viewers in my channel intro so new people will know. Thanks.
Thank you! I understand that these things with routers can be quite confusing. It took me a while to understand some things. I found that watching some videos over and over helped. Also, experimenting in the shop to see how and what works. Thanks!
Thanks for watching. Obviously you are an advanced woodworker. Many of my viewers do appreciate the details and slower pace as they are in the early learning process. That is why I list this channel as educational, not entertainment. Thanks for the comment! 👍
Lug nuts? We were riding down a main thoroughfare in my mom's 1954 Hudson Wasp, when the front wheel falls off and rolls to the other side of the street, before finally falling to a stop. My dad, who had worked on the car that morning, apparently just "snuggled the lug nuts a little bit" (possibly accidentally on purpose) as you suggested was all they'd need. Lug nuts need tightening.
Thanks for the tutorial. I was looking for something just like this and you delivered. I just got a 2.25 hp dewalt router with plunge base package for my birthday, and I’ve never used a router before, so seeing all the stuff in the package was a little overwhelming. Things make A LOT more sense now. Sincerely appreciate this video. It goes over the very basics in a very clear and helpful way. Perfect for us newbies.
Thank you! Glad it helped!
Thanks for this video. Without it I likely would’ve taken this universal plate back thinking it would not fit!
Thank you! Glad it helped and saved some frustration. 👍
Very, very informative!!!!! Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!!!!
Thanks for watching! Glad it helped. 👍
Thanks for the video, this is an important step for setting up your router for using certain jigs. You might get even better results if you lock the router height before tightening the sub-base screws. That way nothing can shift. Thanks again for posting.
Thank you! Good point! Thanks for sharing the tip. 👍
If you lock the router height, how are you gonna align your collet with the centering pin?
@@liambaker1597 On my centering cone, it will slide up and down on the 1/2" shank. So if you get the height of the router close and lock it, you can still press the cone against the sub base. Then just tighten the screws. Centering cones aren't my favorite, but they do work if you're careful.
Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Oh I see, tbh I prefer adjusting the router than moving the cone up and down. And btw, which centering cone do you use? I was looking at these Dewalt and Bosch centering cones but both of their cones are made of plastic and some reviews say after several uses the plastic becomes wobbly
@@liambaker1597 I use a centering mandrel that fits inside a specific guide bushing. Similar items come with inlay bushing kits. I just find centering cones unreliable in general. If I had a turned brass one, I might trust it more. My plastic cone has never become loose, but since it's molded plastic and not turned metal, I don't think it's totally accurate.
Thanks
As a newbie, your video was very helpful!
Thanks, i have a 30mm template for MFT holes (20mm) , i have a Bosch POF 1400 with that click bush system from out factory, not centered at all, so i printed a plate with a 30 mm OD bush in one plate and centered it with a cone and it came out precise with some tweaks (screws), so thanks for your knowledge and great explanation.
Thank you! Glad it helped. 👍
Big help! Thank you, Gary!
I need to get another router. Great Episode Gary!
Thank you!. I had been thru a few routers before I made it to these. These suit me well for my work. I could go bigger to a 3+ hp if I wanted to do bigger work. But, I'm not making cabinetry.
Thanks for this informative demo. I think it’s fair to point out that your centering pin is from the Jasper base kit intended for fill-size routers but happens to work in the 1/4” collet of the DeWalt compact router. DeWalt sells a different centering cone that you use to center the base hole, without the bushing installed. I guess the presumption is that if the base is centered, the bushing will be, too. Would like to see you demo this configuration.
Thank you! I will look into doing that. Thanks for the tip! 👍
Wow! Thank you so much! Now I can make Lexan templates on my small CNC, then use them to make wooden gears, octagons, etc. out of wood. Duh... why didn't I think of this before?! My little Makita router can now make near-CNC quality wood parts!
Thanks! Great idea. Glad that helped. 👍
Nicely done Gary. Thank you
Thank you!
Gary - love your channel - one add to this video that might help someone. Maybe your German Festool-using viewers won't have the issue I'm describing, but I'm willing to bet any adjustable base (fixed or plunge) on the big-box Chinese throw-away routers most of us use will benefit. I own 'one of each' brand and they all have this issue. What I've learned the hard way is you'd better lock whatever clamp locks your depth before finalizing your centering (I noticed on the video you left yours unlocked on the little DeWalt). On my routers at least, locking that clamp DOES change the orientation of the motor relative to the base... on mine its >.010-.015" which is plenty enough to wreck the cut, or to make an otherwise "tight enough" joint not go together properly. It also makes a difference if your base is almost all the way out when you're "centering" but much closer to the collet when running. So - in addition to locking the base before finalizing the position of the base plate, it also helps to do the centering as close to the depth you'll actually be using to make the cut (if you can - on my trim router there's no room so I have to have it extended way farther than it will be when running) Anyway hope that helps someone. You can get cheap tools to produce good work, but it takes a little extra fiddling. Glad to see you back in action - here's to a great 2019 !
Thank you for that tip!
I was going to mention the fact that by locking the base first you do get final locked position for centering but Tioga Fretworks worded that so very well and I agree with his explanation 100%. I think failure to first lock base first before tightening screws would not give you as accurate results. Thanks for your great video.
Great video; great information. Thank you.
Thank you!
Hi Gary. Thanks for the useful video. I have these same two routers so this was helpful. Question: does the same process work for the plunge base on the Dewalt?
Also, are you using the original base plate for your Dewalt fixed base? Mine is not round like yours, but D-shaped instead.
Thank you
I too have the same Dewalt router. I followed your instructions, but I have a Powertec Brass Router Bushing set. It doesn't come with a centering pin. Anyway, I have a question, I want to do an inlay, but if I put the 3/4" straight router bit in the router, the bottom of the bit is a fixed distance from the base plate, 1 1/2", I can't figure out what to do, since my inlay is only 1/4".
Thank you! I have not done inlay before. I use guide bushings mostly for making signs. See if I understand your question correctly. Can you adjust the depth of your router bit if you're trying to get a 1/4" deep cut? Nost base plates will let you adjust depth. You may put your bit in deeper in the collett but not seated all the way in. That would make it hard to get out and it wouldn't set straight or could come loose due to the shoulder on the bit.
I just purchased a dwp611 and it comes with the D shaped base plate. The hole on the plate has a 1 7/16 opening. Will the PC bushings fit on it?
Thank you! The PC guide bushings fit both the base plates that came with my DWP611.
הסבר טוב מאוד. תודה.
great. Thanks so much. Out of curiosity, the dewalt DWP611 and it's plunge base both come standard with the acrylic base plates correct?
Thanks! Mine did. I believe they always do.
I have a Hitachi router do you know where I can buy a centralising pin from?
Thank you! I would suggest searching any of the major woodworking vendors, such as Rockler, Woodcraft, etc. If you don't find what you are looking for, send them an email inquiry. They can usually point you in the right direction.
Is that compatible to Dewalt DW618? Please reply and thank you so much
Thank you! The Jasper adapter plate says in its instructions that it will fit the DeWalt 618.
Gary Lundgren Crafts what about the bushing? I see some at Amazon and Ebay but it doesn’t say the fitment for the bushing..
@@jaimegenovajr3257 Thanks. It says on the package near the top that it fits the Porter Cable bushing. ". . . to use Porter Cable style guide bushings." Use the link in the video description to see that.
Gary Lundgren Crafts thank you so much sir
Could you please tell me if that Jasper router base will fit on a Milwaukee 5615 router?
Thank you! The one I featured does fit Milwaukee routers models 5615/5616/5619 series. You can find it on Amazon.com at this link: amzn.to/2Wp6on4
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts : thanks for the reply but I looked at my combo kit that comes with a plunge base and that base except the collars.
Thanks!
Hello sir what was the model number for the dewalt base and also for the guide bushings. Thank you for the great video.
Thank you! The DeWalt base comes with that router. My instruction/user guide doesn't give a parts list.
The guide bushings are at this link Woodriver 10 Piece Brass Router Bushing Set With Case Porter*Cable compatible
amzn.to/2HWDRx0
If you have the Bosch adapter and centering pin do you still need to change the plate? It seems unnecessary.
Thank you! Sometimes we change the base plate to use other types for different purposes such as: circle jigs, pattern trimming (similar to template cutting but the bearing on the bit follows the pattern whereas the bit on a bushing doesn't use bearings), in a router table we typically use bearing bits too, and other specialty jigs we sometimes use. Thanks!
I have followed your steps on my Ryobi router and have difficulty, I have blown out 4 bushings and am left with just the hole , no collar. I did center, and used a 1/4 bit in a 1/4 collar with a 5/16 outer dia. . Is is the operator or the machine at fault ? thanks
Thank you! Are your bushing guides coming loose? If so, take a look at this video for getting them tight easily. ruclips.net/video/Fy-Cpogkv8E/видео.html
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts bit and bushing are tight, but it appears my sliders for the plunge have a little sway/play in them.Could I be going sideways to hard? 5/8 deep in spruce 2x4
If you're hogging out 5/8" depth in one pass, that is probably too much. I would suggest no less than 3 passes of 3/16" per pass. Or 2 passes at 1/4" deep and the 3rd of 1/8" deep. Thanks!
wait the dewalt comes with a base that excepts the bushing collar in the box
Thank you! It will accept Porter*Cable standard bushing collar.
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts i bought the powertec guide bushing set will this work?, im not a dewalt fan but if the base works out the box then thats a win
@@suspensefulness Thanks. I'm not familiar with the Powertec guide bushings. But if they are compatible with the Porter*Cable bushings, it should work. From what I see online, it should work.
You get old, you learn, you get wise... and then we die before we really can get rid of all our crap.
That is why there is believe, you can enter living forever ;-)
different screw colors makes it idiot proof.great
Thank you!
The link to your shop doesn't work and copying of text doesn't either.
An effective way to lose customers I imagine.
Thank you. Thanks for letting me know. I tried the link and was able to connect with it. Can you tell me which one you tried? Thanks!
I think I found it. Let me know if it works for you. Thanks! I'm sure there's more I need to fix. 🙂
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts
All links should be coloured BLUE to indicate that they are functioning links.
Read down through your text and you will notice that MOST of your references to other sites are not blue and so, do not work.
Alternatively, I notice that I cannot copy any of the text either in order to do a copy and paste into my browser.
@@Tinker1950 Thanks for your suggestions. I notice some links are in blue and some are not. Perhaps that's a good indicator for me to find broken links. I will look into that on all my videos. I appreciate letting me know of broken links. 👍
Great video... thanks.
One thing though... all your jump edits get a little "annoying". It might be better to just leave them out.
Thank you! The cuts were in my early videos. I do better in later videos. I address that to viewers in my channel intro so new people will know. Thanks.
So lost
Thank you! I understand that these things with routers can be quite confusing. It took me a while to understand some things. I found that watching some videos over and over helped. Also, experimenting in the shop to see how and what works. Thanks!
A 13 minute video for2 minutes worth of information. Sometimes you just need to give the information without all the woodworker geek chit chat.
Thanks for watching. Obviously you are an advanced woodworker. Many of my viewers do appreciate the details and slower pace as they are in the early learning process. That is why I list this channel as educational, not entertainment.
Thanks for the comment! 👍