Thank you so much for the video! Works perfectly! Mine was at 1, I’ll try 4, and 5 as I learn the car better! Amazing car, can’t beat it for the money!
you post such good info i am just getting into trying to tune my trucks for what i want to do but i have a difficult time understanding the manuals your videos been helping me a lot thanks man
I m not going to complain much about my 5 day old Kraton 6s being down . I hope it’s just the damn servo . I have throttle and no steering . Reset the esc per the directions but not sure . Tried to reset the calibration but it would start to re start with the beep sequence right before I have to turn off the esc to complete the process . Ugggh . I hope it was doing an automatic shutoff after how far I got and it knows to keep the setting s and restart . I can do this ! 🦅
Thank you so much for this video, just got my first Armma Typhon and couldn't understand the punch settings. This is hands down (pun intended 😁) the best and well explained video on the punch settings I've found.
Awesome brother! Welcome to the RC RUclips family. Check out my Library for tons of advice on Arrma related parts. The typhon is very interchangeable with the Kraton which is my rig. The differentials and things like that are all very similar… so have fun. If you ever have a question about anything feel free to reach out to me in any one of my videos. Also if you want to get involved in a jump competition that I hold on my channel check out some of my latest videos regarding this. There are still two jump competitions that are going to be held one for this month which is starting now (announcement video pending). And another gym competition in the month of August which the grand prize is over $600 in aluminum upgrades from the best of the best, M2C racing.
This is taking me a few rides just to reset the esc to factory even though I know it’s easy it’s not very well explained jn the manuals . I just noticed the gray colors and black boxes . I ll get it but not today . Hopefully everything works after I put the new servo in and I hope that’s the issue . 5 days old , lol .
I have a arrma felony and mine is set to 4 and that works well when I have my avc set to 50% it find it alot easy to get the spektrum esc programmer and that makes it alot easy than manual, alot of times messing with all these setting from the factory really will mess up your car or truck, just let them alone!!
Hey I got question I just got kraton 6s and I wanted to know should I change my punch settings to like 5 or 6 or what do recommend I put the punch settings at? And is it okay that I put the high speed gearing in the car and leave it
I just got in to rc hobby I have a hyper go h16bm and I wanted a good car so I went with the ARRMA kraton 6s I drive it on 4s right now as it was advise by some people and I’m good with controlling it
Hey! Congratulations on grabbing what I feel is literally a the best RC in the world. I would be happy to answer your questions. You are more than OK to put the high-speed gearing on your RC. Especially if you’re looking for more speed. However, that may not be necessary for you at least right now because if you’re looking for more speed, you can simply just upgrade to the 6s battery for the time being and you’ll definitely get that satisfactory jump in speed you’re looking for. It’s definitely better on the motor and the ESC to run the lower stock gearing. You’ll find that your ESC and your motor will run at lower temperatures which is overall good for the health of your rig. Needless to say both of those components, the ESC and the motor are rated to handle the high-speed pinion gear just fine. What you may find with the higher tooth pinion is a little bit higher likelihood of stripping teeth, and breaking an internal component. So… If you’re happy with the speed at 6s, you might as well simply stick with the lower gearing, which again is overall better for the health of your rig as you acclimate and get more experience under your belt, controlling these amazing rigs . When it comes to the punch setting, I personally like to set mine all way to the top punch, because I like to have the most control and burst available for doing front flips and backflips. You need immediate torque when wanting to take those kind of controls in the air. And… I’m a glutton for maximizing speed and maximizing everything. So yeah, punch nine for me. But I do know a lot of people that are perfectly fine with running punch five or six, it really just depends on your bashing style. Thanks for commenting, if you have any other questions I’m happy to help
@@EastTactics thanks so much I’m get a 6s battery and stick with the stock gearing. And I’m move the punch up today and see how that works. What should I do to the rig as of now I just took it out the box last week and have drove it about 3-4x times is it anything I need to do other then change the punch? Will me changing the punch be okay on the rig
I have a 2s battery and it only has 2 beeps for punch and goes back to 1 after I’m confused. Also I only have 6 of 11 settings it just goes back to 1 after 6.
One thing that gets confused, because they sound very similar, is Cogging, and stripped input or rings gears on your differentials. My guess, since you've done a bunch of experimenting with different gearing and punch settings, is that you might have a stripped input gear either in the front, or the back differential. Potentially even in the center diff between the mesh of the crown gear and the motor pinion. Alot of times it's difficult to detect a worn input gear because they are smaller and burried deep in the bottom of the Diff covered with grease, but even if one tooth is worn down the teeth skipping under high torque sounds just like cogging. Have you eliminated this possibility yet?
Ummm… I know this is definitely going to work for the stock blx185 on the Arma Kraton. I’m not 100% sure what esc you’re running. However most have the ability to adjust your punch setting and my guess is it in a similar fashion. I would try the steps that are outlined here and see if you get the same beeping patterns. But actually before that I would probably just look at your instruction manual if you have it. If you don’t you could check arms website. To see how to set the punch setting for that specific ESC you’re running
Got a arrmagranite 4x4 mega can not find the conecter for the plug to bind,any suggestions,does this model need to be binded,brand new with controller ?
Charles Needom, You should be fine to get everything set up without needing to bind it. Just be sure to set your throttle end points, steering ends points, etc
Hey. I am very new to rc but have a lot of cars. I wonder if i tell you what cars i have could you made me a list over what things i need to buy to them? I mean like diff oil, shock oil, grease and so on? I understand if it is to much to ask about:) Kindly
@@EastTactics Hey man! And thanks for the answar. I have Arrma Infraction 6s v2, Typhon 3s, Granite 3s. A Hpi wr8 ford fiesta flux ken block version newest. And a Axial RBX10 🙂
How do I get my esc to default settings? When I turn on my esc it's always blinking red. And when I do hold it down for 4 seconds to set it to default and it never turns green. It stays blinking red. Need help!! Can't steer at all!!
Check out these two videos, there’s a special tactic you can try, particularly when it comes to the four green lights of death. However it might work for you as well. Let me know how it turns out. ruclips.net/video/0TaUS5HEGRw/видео.html ruclips.net/video/i_EkU30vmB0/видео.html Also I think it might be worth noting, I started having ESC problems when my servo was on it’s last leg and then it went out. When your server was going bad I think it messes with your ESC
So I follow ya .. I seen u backed it down because of the cogging .. question .. what punch setting are you using now .. and is there a sweet spot to not damage diffs from this
Lebaron, So I decided to keep my punch setting on the maximum after dropping to the 16 tooth pinion gear. The cogging has completely gone away, While keeping punch setting nine. I personally really enjoy having the maximum punch setting so that I can pull off Stunts faster in the air. As far as Sweet Spot goes, I can tell you that I have not broken a single thing since I’ve dropped to 16t and upgraded my pin behind the planetary gears (in the rear) to a 2.25 mm hardened steel shaft picked up from McMaster.com. The stock pins are definitely not 2.25 mm thick even though they say they are. Tons of slop! I have a video on that specifically if you want to check it out in my library, and in the description of that video is a link directly to the specific rod on their website. That said... I do think a bigger contribution to my not breaking things is simply dropping down to the 16 tooth pinion gear, the better quality less slop pin is just a bonus and might be the reason why down the road I’ll tempt the idea of perhaps a 17 tooth and still get by without breaking stuff. However, I don’t happen to have a 17 pinion on hand so I’ll stick with the 16 tooth. The difference in speed for one tooth or a few teeth is so negligible I really just think it’s pointless to mess with the drive train by pushing five more miles past 65 LOL. Another important thing I’ve noticed to prevent breakage in the rear differential Is running diff fluid that’s not too high. I’ve seen some people put 80,000 CST in the rear and in my opinion that’s just asking for trouble. It comes Stock at 10,000cst. The lower the diff fluid in the rear the less pounds of instant Torque you’re slamming into it. With lower differential fluid the gears like it more, Specifically in the rear, which for whatever reason is the most fragile differential in the system. I run 20,000 CST in the rear 200,000 CST in the center and 80,000 CST in the front to mitigate ballooning. If I go along time without breaking anything I’ll likely experiment with tossing 40 or 50 K fluid in the rear and maybe 500,000 in the center, maybe 100,000 in the front just to see what happens. From what I understand the thicker you go the more traction you get but again you’re putting more load on the gears. Hope all that helps.
You mean the spectrum ESC? It’s a different brand so it might be different. However I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the same. If you have the instruction manual check there. And if you don’t have the instruction manual jump over to Arrma website scroll to the very bottom of the page and look for the manual section
Thanks man, this was very helpful. Are you having any heat issues with a bigger pinion? I have a fan on my motor but am still wary of heat since I mostly run on grass.
I recently dropped to the 16 tooth pinion To eliminate a Cogging/stutter issue I was having. The 16t for the stock motor and stock ESC is really, in my opinion, as far as you want to push it. It’s still an upgrade from the stock speed gear, Toting 60+ mph. Not that speed runs are my thing anyways (bashing is) As far as overheating, the hobby wing heat sink and fan has really helped keeping me from overheating. However when I was running the 20t I was actually running into drivetrain issues first, My guess is that I probably would have overheated my ESC and motor on a long run especially in grass. you want to keep your engine below 150° and ESC below 130°. Having a heat sensor on hand is always a nice complement to you arsenal. But yeah I’m on 16 tooth now, and I am completely happy with it. Down the road if I ever run my ESC to death or my motor I’ll definitely upgrade to a higher end combo. I’ve linked in the description likely what I would pick up, come that day. Thanks for the question, bash on brother! 😎💪
There really shouldn’t be much of a delay at all when applying Forward throttle, a lot of times people think that there is a delay with reverse because it registers a little bit differently. So… Are you experiencing a one second delay when your vehicle sitting at a standstill. And then you pull the trigger? If that’s the case I would consider checking the battery power on your remote, going in and unplugging and plugging in your receiver components. Making sure none of them are dirty or malfunctioning from debris. If no that works I might consider doing a factory reset on my ESC. Watch this video to understand this reversed thing I’m talking about. ruclips.net/video/jg_iVaNUoY8/видео.html Have you made any modifications to your stock set up. What size pinion are you running?
@@EastTactics just got it and all stock. did the throttle and brake points. Maybe i did those wrong but i will do a factory reset see if it changes things.
I just picked up the new vortex blx 3s and sane thing theres a delay i have the smart elecronix in it does mine also have the punch setting? Im running 100c 5000 mah spek g2 battery
@@nolimitrc1 I increased my punch setting and it actually helped abit. Though I went to setting 5 (way too much) just a wheelie craes truck is all that makes it 🥲
Some ESC’s are different. Do you still have the user manual. It’s the ESC itself that’s going to be telling as to how many punch it can go up to. Can you look at the side of the ESC find some markings that indicate what model ESC it is. One thing you need to be sure about, is whenever changing parameters in the ESC you need to make 100% sure you’re even on the right setting for all you know you might be impacting the brake level. That’s why it’s important to have the instruction manual that belongs to the ESC so that you know what lights indicate what when going through the set up process I mean, the simple answer is if the ESC only allows up to a five punch. Then puther at five.
It changes the amount of immediate power thrown at the drivetrain. You’ll find at Punch setting nine, which is the highest one. That it’s a completely different beast. You’ll be able to see a big difference in your attempts to do backflips because the inertia kicks into the drivetrain much faster.
Five is the stock setting, so it should already be set at five. It’ll still be a beast, just not quite as quick off the line, Or in your case quick to Willy! with the notorious since those things flip extremely easily even without a punch setting nine, you might find it a bit oversensitive in the flip category and Willie category if you’re on punch setting nine. Plus it’s a little bit easier on your gears less breakages when you Steer away from point setting nine. I personally have mine set on point setting six.
It will Willie pretty easily without doing anything But punching the throttle. However if you want to turn it up even more then install the high-speed pinion gear and crank the punch setting up tonine. I would also highly recommend getting a wheelie bar because if you want to Willie a lot without one you’re simply just going to tear up your spoiler and lay it up on her back a lot. Now if you want to take it even another step forward as far as giving her some serious punch off the line increase the center differential fluid to 500,000 cst. Lastly if you’ve got A desire to attempt standing back flips off the line then consider putting silicon earplugs in your center differential. If you’re new to the hobby though take some time to get used to your Kraton A bit before you start dialing it up. If you ever have any questions I’m always happy to help
Thanks for the video. The best part is you counting with your fingers. I'm sure that helps certain people more than you know.
No other text or video I’ve seen described the meaning of the long beep. Thanks a lot for this, it answered a lot of questions
Thank you so much for the video! Works perfectly! Mine was at 1, I’ll try 4, and 5 as I learn the car better! Amazing car, can’t beat it for the money!
you post such good info i am just getting into trying to tune my trucks for what i want to do but i have a difficult time understanding the manuals your videos been helping me a lot thanks man
Glad to help, feel free to hit me up anytime!
I m not going to complain much about my 5 day old Kraton 6s being down . I hope it’s just the damn servo . I have throttle and no steering . Reset the esc per the directions but not sure . Tried to reset the calibration but it would start to re start with the beep sequence right before I have to turn off the esc to complete the process . Ugggh . I hope it was doing an automatic shutoff after how far I got and it knows to keep the setting s and restart . I can do this ! 🦅
You got this!
Thank you so much for this video, just got my first Armma Typhon and couldn't understand the punch settings. This is hands down (pun intended 😁) the best and well explained video on the punch settings I've found.
Awesome brother! Welcome to the RC RUclips family. Check out my Library for tons of advice on Arrma related parts. The typhon is very interchangeable with the Kraton which is my rig. The differentials and things like that are all very similar… so have fun. If you ever have a question about anything feel free to reach out to me in any one of my videos. Also if you want to get involved in a jump competition that I hold on my channel check out some of my latest videos regarding this. There are still two jump competitions that are going to be held one for this month which is starting now (announcement video pending).
And another gym competition in the month of August which the grand prize is over $600 in aluminum upgrades from the best of the best, M2C racing.
@@EastTactics thanks so much, definitely earned a sub. Everything sounds awesome, can't wait to really get into the rc world and get involved!
Perfectly explained. Got 15t pinion in mine now and turned the punch up from 4 to 9, cant wait to see her unleashed now.. Thanks
Lexusant rip your diffs
This is taking me a few rides just to reset the esc to factory even though I know it’s easy it’s not very well explained jn the manuals . I just noticed the gray colors and black boxes . I ll get it but not today . Hopefully everything works after I put the new servo in and I hope that’s the issue . 5 days old , lol .
really helped ya boi out man thx im reaserching on this esc and by all the info i got im convinced this is the one!
Glad to hear it! Thx for watching
I have a arrma felony and mine is set to 4 and that works well when I have my avc set to 50% it find it alot easy to get the spektrum esc programmer and that makes it alot easy than manual, alot of times messing with all these setting from the factory really will mess up your car or truck, just let them alone!!
Yes, too much tweaking can be a bad thing. Thanks for commenting
great video, great job, thank you for the show.. see you on the next one
Awesome video it helped me out
Thank you very informative
Glad it was helpful!
You got new subs bro! Good explanation
Dope. I need to set mine. Thanks
My kraton 6s v3 loves punch nine with stock gearing and Arrma backflip Lp the 4s tire.
👌
Hey I got question I just got kraton 6s and I wanted to know should I change my punch settings to like 5 or 6 or what do recommend I put the punch settings at? And is it okay that I put the high speed gearing in the car and leave it
I just got in to rc hobby I have a hyper go h16bm and I wanted a good car so I went with the ARRMA kraton 6s I drive it on 4s right now as it was advise by some people and I’m good with controlling it
Hey! Congratulations on grabbing what I feel is literally a the best RC in the world. I would be happy to answer your questions. You are more than OK to put the high-speed gearing on your RC. Especially if you’re looking for more speed. However, that may not be necessary for you at least right now because if you’re looking for more speed, you can simply just upgrade to the 6s battery for the time being and you’ll definitely get that satisfactory jump in speed you’re looking for. It’s definitely better on the motor and the ESC to run the lower stock gearing. You’ll find that your ESC and your motor will run at lower temperatures which is overall good for the health of your rig. Needless to say both of those components, the ESC and the motor are rated to handle the high-speed pinion gear just fine.
What you may find with the higher tooth pinion is a little bit higher likelihood of stripping teeth, and breaking an internal component. So… If you’re happy with the speed at 6s, you might as well simply stick with the lower gearing, which again is overall better for the health of your rig as you acclimate and get more experience under your belt, controlling these amazing rigs .
When it comes to the punch setting, I personally like to set mine all way to the top punch, because I like to have the most control and burst available for doing front flips and backflips. You need immediate torque when wanting to take those kind of controls in the air. And… I’m a glutton for maximizing speed and maximizing everything. So yeah, punch nine for me. But I do know a lot of people that are perfectly fine with running punch five or six, it really just depends on your bashing style.
Thanks for commenting, if you have any other questions I’m happy to help
@@EastTactics thanks so much I’m get a 6s battery and stick with the stock gearing. And I’m move the punch up today and see how that works. What should I do to the rig as of now I just took it out the box last week and have drove it about 3-4x times is it anything I need to do other then change the punch? Will me changing the punch be okay on the rig
I have a 2s battery and it only has 2 beeps for punch and goes back to 1 after I’m confused. Also I only have 6 of 11 settings it just goes back to 1 after 6.
What rig are we talking about here? Do you have a BLX 185 ESC?
My senton is cogging, I've reset the esc, tried different gearing, tried different punch settings and it's still there. What's going on?
One thing that gets confused, because they sound very similar, is Cogging, and stripped input or rings gears on your differentials. My guess, since you've done a bunch of experimenting with different gearing and punch settings, is that you might have a stripped input gear either in the front, or the back differential. Potentially even in the center diff between the mesh of the crown gear and the motor pinion.
Alot of times it's difficult to detect a worn input gear because they are smaller and burried deep in the bottom of the Diff covered with grease, but even if one tooth is worn down the teeth skipping under high torque sounds just like cogging. Have you eliminated this possibility yet?
Hello will this work for an arrma vortex?
Ummm… I know this is definitely going to work for the stock blx185 on the Arma Kraton. I’m not 100% sure what esc you’re running. However most have the ability to adjust your punch setting and my guess is it in a similar fashion. I would try the steps that are outlined here and see if you get the same beeping patterns. But actually before that I would probably just look at your instruction manual if you have it. If you don’t you could check arms website. To see how to set the punch setting for that specific ESC you’re running
Can a v3 arma typhon 3s get to 9 or only 5
What ESC are you running? Is it the BLX 185?
BLX 100
The stock one
Got a arrmagranite 4x4 mega can not find the conecter for the plug to bind,any suggestions,does this model need to be binded,brand new with controller ?
Charles Needom, You should be fine to get everything set up without needing to bind it. Just be sure to set your throttle end points, steering ends points, etc
Hey. I am very new to rc but have a lot of cars. I wonder if i tell you what cars i have could you made me a list over what things i need to buy to them? I mean like diff oil, shock oil, grease and so on? I understand if it is to much to ask about:) Kindly
Happy to help, however I most knowledgeable with Arrma 6s vehicles. Particularly the bashers. So if you want to start with that.
@@EastTactics Hey man! And thanks for the answar. I have Arrma Infraction 6s v2, Typhon 3s, Granite 3s. A Hpi wr8 ford fiesta flux ken block version newest. And a Axial RBX10 🙂
How do I get my esc to default settings? When I turn on my esc it's always blinking red. And when I do hold it down for 4 seconds to set it to default and it never turns green. It stays blinking red. Need help!! Can't steer at all!!
Check out these two videos, there’s a special tactic you can try, particularly when it comes to the four green lights of death. However it might work for you as well. Let me know how it turns out.
ruclips.net/video/0TaUS5HEGRw/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/i_EkU30vmB0/видео.html
Also I think it might be worth noting, I started having ESC problems when my servo was on it’s last leg and then it went out. When your server was going bad I think it messes with your ESC
So I follow ya .. I seen u backed it down because of the cogging .. question .. what punch setting are you using now .. and is there a sweet spot to not damage diffs from this
Lebaron, So I decided to keep my punch setting on the maximum after dropping to the 16 tooth pinion gear. The cogging has completely gone away, While keeping punch setting nine. I personally really enjoy having the maximum punch setting so that I can pull off Stunts faster in the air.
As far as Sweet Spot goes, I can tell you that I have not broken a single thing since I’ve dropped to 16t and upgraded my pin behind the planetary gears (in the rear) to a 2.25 mm hardened steel shaft picked up from McMaster.com. The stock pins are definitely not 2.25 mm thick even though they say they are. Tons of slop!
I have a video on that specifically if you want to check it out in my library, and in the description of that video is a link directly to the specific rod on their website.
That said... I do think a bigger contribution to my not breaking things is simply dropping down to the 16 tooth pinion gear, the better quality less slop pin is just a bonus and might be the reason why down the road I’ll tempt the idea of perhaps a 17 tooth and still get by without breaking stuff. However, I don’t happen to have a 17 pinion on hand so I’ll stick with the 16 tooth.
The difference in speed for one tooth or a few teeth is so negligible I really just think it’s pointless to mess with the drive train by pushing five more miles past 65 LOL.
Another important thing I’ve noticed to prevent breakage in the rear differential Is running diff fluid that’s not too high. I’ve seen some people put 80,000 CST in the rear and in my opinion that’s just asking for trouble. It comes Stock at 10,000cst. The lower the diff fluid in the rear the less pounds of instant Torque you’re slamming into it. With lower differential fluid the gears like it more, Specifically in the rear, which for whatever reason is the most fragile differential in the system. I run 20,000 CST in the rear 200,000 CST in the center and 80,000 CST in the front to mitigate ballooning.
If I go along time without breaking anything I’ll likely experiment with tossing 40 or 50 K fluid in the rear and maybe 500,000 in the center, maybe 100,000 in the front just to see what happens. From what I understand the thicker you go the more traction you get but again you’re putting more load on the gears. Hope all that helps.
Does this also work for the v2 version?
You mean the spectrum ESC? It’s a different brand so it might be different. However I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the same. If you have the instruction manual check there. And if you don’t have the instruction manual jump over to Arrma website scroll to the very bottom of the page and look for the manual section
Thanks man, this was very helpful. Are you having any heat issues with a bigger pinion? I have a fan on my motor but am still wary of heat since I mostly run on grass.
I recently dropped to the 16 tooth pinion To eliminate a Cogging/stutter issue I was having. The 16t for the stock motor and stock ESC is really, in my opinion, as far as you want to push it. It’s still an upgrade from the stock speed gear, Toting 60+ mph. Not that speed runs are my thing anyways (bashing is)
As far as overheating, the hobby wing heat sink and fan has really helped keeping me from overheating. However when I was running the 20t I was actually running into drivetrain issues first, My guess is that I probably would have overheated my ESC and motor on a long run especially in grass.
you want to keep your engine below 150° and ESC below 130°. Having a heat sensor on hand is always a nice complement to you arsenal. But yeah I’m on 16 tooth now, and I am completely happy with it. Down the road if I ever run my ESC to death or my motor I’ll definitely upgrade to a higher end combo. I’ve linked in the description likely what I would pick up, come that day. Thanks for the question, bash on brother! 😎💪
🤨 i was just wondering if i could fix the delay when i apply my throttle. Its a good sec before response (granite V3)
There really shouldn’t be much of a delay at all when applying Forward throttle, a lot of times people think that there is a delay with reverse because it registers a little bit differently. So… Are you experiencing a one second delay when your vehicle sitting at a standstill. And then you pull the trigger? If that’s the case I would consider checking the battery power on your remote, going in and unplugging and plugging in your receiver components. Making sure none of them are dirty or malfunctioning from debris. If no that works I might consider doing a factory reset on my ESC.
Watch this video to understand this reversed thing I’m talking about.
ruclips.net/video/jg_iVaNUoY8/видео.html
Have you made any modifications to your stock set up. What size pinion are you running?
@@EastTactics just got it and all stock. did the throttle and brake points. Maybe i did those wrong but i will do a factory reset see if it changes things.
Oh yeah… Be sure to check the throttle trim on your controller. It’s a dial that should be at about the 6 o’clock position
I just picked up the new vortex blx 3s and sane thing theres a delay i have the smart elecronix in it does mine also have the punch setting? Im running 100c 5000 mah spek g2 battery
@@nolimitrc1 I increased my punch setting and it actually helped abit. Though I went to setting 5 (way too much) just a wheelie craes truck is all that makes it 🥲
what if it only goes up to 5
What rig are we talking about? What ESC model?
@@EastTactics not sure but its the brushless senton ?
Some ESC’s are different. Do you still have the user manual. It’s the ESC itself that’s going to be telling as to how many punch it can go up to. Can you look at the side of the ESC find some markings that indicate what model ESC it is.
One thing you need to be sure about, is whenever changing parameters in the ESC you need to make 100% sure you’re even on the right setting for all you know you might be impacting the brake level. That’s why it’s important to have the instruction manual that belongs to the ESC so that you know what lights indicate what when going through the set up process
I mean, the simple answer is if the ESC only allows up to a five punch. Then puther at five.
@@EastTactics yup looked up the online manual and got it all sorted out appreciate you for taking your time and guiding me👍😁 have a great day
What does the punch settings do?🤔
It changes the amount of immediate power thrown at the drivetrain. You’ll find at Punch setting nine, which is the highest one. That it’s a completely different beast. You’ll be able to see a big difference in your attempts to do backflips because the inertia kicks into the drivetrain much faster.
@@EastTactics ok ok so what about at 5? I have an notorious 6s
Five is the stock setting, so it should already be set at five. It’ll still be a beast, just not quite as quick off the line, Or in your case quick to Willy!
with the notorious since those things flip extremely easily even without a punch setting nine, you might find it a bit oversensitive in the flip category and Willie category if you’re on punch setting nine. Plus it’s a little bit easier on your gears less breakages when you Steer away from point setting nine. I personally have mine set on point setting six.
I’m about to get Keaton 6s how do I get it to wheelie good
It will Willie pretty easily without doing anything But punching the throttle. However if you want to turn it up even more then install the high-speed pinion gear and crank the punch setting up tonine. I would also highly recommend getting a wheelie bar because if you want to Willie a lot without one you’re simply just going to tear up your spoiler and lay it up on her back a lot.
Now if you want to take it even another step forward as far as giving her some serious punch off the line increase the center differential fluid to 500,000 cst.
Lastly if you’ve got A desire to attempt standing back flips off the line then consider putting silicon earplugs in your center differential. If you’re new to the hobby though take some time to get used to your Kraton A bit before you start dialing it up. If you ever have any questions I’m always happy to help