Great video and lots of good information. As a BMW Tech, I have to add, this very critical bit of information. Make certain your battery is good, properly charged and if it was replaced, it needs to be properly registered - Battery Registration is very important- basically your BMW alternator output is controlled by the DME/ECU and if you do not register the battery- it will not charge the battery properly. Ive seen many turbos fail due to failure to replace and register batteries. The Auxiliary pump is electric and only runs after shut off. If the battery is weak, your computer will shut the auxiliary pump off prematurely in order to save battery power so the car will start up next time. Look up BMW's Battery replacement information on the N63 engine. It is way more frequent than any other model. If your battery is good, be certain to have a battery charger/power supply connected when performing the bleed procedure. Again, if the battery is weak, the bleed procedure will not initiate. Also see BMW Service Bulletin SI B61 30 14
Okay jcx2bby, awesome great instructional video. Thanks. My hooptie is a 2013 E70 X5 50I, 65,000 miles, virgin to being fondled by a seasoned mechanic. I'd like to add a few things to this that I believe is extremely important. Learnt through my own trial, error, and pain. Please forgive my spelling and grammar that I am about to spit at you.First other than the error code here is how to tell if it's the turbo water pump that is whats shot causing the code and you don't need a fancy code reader gadget. After you have driven and your car is hot (it will be way hotter than normal) because when this little pump is shot your turbo's are going to be scorching. Turn the car off, open the hood and listen right above the location of the little pump, if you hear it running and it is making little clicking sounds then it is for sure shot and it's the reason that your coolant keeps getting low, the blistering hot turbo's are evaporating what coolant is barely able to get to them. Do not continue to drive the car when you get the error message, you may be setting yourself up for a disaster to your wallet. The car will continue to run blistering hot until it either burns off all of your coolant or the lack of coolant starts a chain reaction of breaking everything to include the turbos. What this video didn't show you was why the little pump was shot. After you get it out of the car and like me you have to know what is inside of it you more than likely will go at it to open it up. Before you do so shake it. You will probably hear that clicking sound. When you open it up pieces of conductive ceramic impeller will fall out. That is what was making the clicking noise. Now taking the old pump apart becomes an critical step in the process because you will need to inventory the pieces to make sure that none of them made it out of the pump and into your turbo's or other critical parts, absolutely imperative!! The little pump has a magnet in it that the impeller slips over and when power is applied to the magnet that causes the impeller to rotate, it is kept lubricated by the coolant, when the coolant runs low the impeller is running dry. You need to periodically check your coolant levels. These parts don't have much tolerance for running dry. If the coolant keeps getting low you need to find out why. Preparing to repair: before you even touch anything with a tool, open the hood and check what kind of hose clamps that you have. Unlike this video mine still had the factory hose clamps that require a special 80 dollar pair of pliers to remove. I tried everything to get the things to snap lose, prying with a screwdriver, horn nose clamp pliers from the auto store, nothing worked, the things are made of kryptonite, stronger than superman. And there was no way that I was going to get the bottom hose clamp off of the little pump. That left the Dremel, I simply cut on top of the clamp connector and they popped lose. You still have to digger with them a little to get the clamp the rest of the way off. So if you have those clamps you need to be prepared with the right tool to deal with them before you even start. Next, as this clip fails to mention until parts are already removed, first thing jack the car up, remove the skid plate and put a drain pan under the car and set the car back down. Before you remove hoses or the coolant reservoir tank in front of the turbo pump, suction the coolant out of the reservoir tank, saves you a big mess. Everything else is like the gentleman in this video says to do it. Most important thing he says is to prime that new little pump, I consider it critical to prime that little pump. Don't forget to do what the author says and run the priming sequence when done. Also I know I shouldn't have to mention this since we are all master mechanic pro's here but don't forget to replace the coolant when you are done or the priming sequence is futile. Don't run over your drip pan. Wish that I could add pics. Thanks for the video and good luck!!!
This worked for me thank you so much. 750i 2012, was getting same message. Engine hot drive moderately on cold start. Changed Turbo coolant pump (aux pump) as specified and boom. All good! I would hear a light ticking sound after turning car off ,guess that was the faulty pumping still trying. Thanks again my friend.
@@ramisiljazi9540 Not sure if it’s necessary to bleed the system, no symptoms just an annoying message saying the car is hot when indeed it’s not. Also after changing I realized the faulty pump was making noise before when i turned car off, noise stopped after part change. performance wise i didn’t feel a difference , but not replacing will lead to turbo failure eventually. Hope this helps it’s all I got lol
Thank you very much for sharing FCP Euro!!! I just bought a Brand new thermostat for my 2011 BMW 328i xdrive, at orielys. Now iam going to get my water pump from FCP Euro. Thanks to you , my gosh you cannot play around with buying Japanese parts, for a BMW the computer will read it saying it’s a boot leg lol and it won’t work, must have the best salute to you brother 👨🏼✈️ BMW 4 life 💙🖤
It's nice to get a comment from another enthusiast. Many times I get comments from people who are fed up with bmw and tired of the repairs, expense, etc. Thanks for commenting. FCPEuro is awesome. Have never let me down yet. And their lifetime warranty on oil is unbeatable. Has saved me 100s of dollars.
So I just ordered this unit from FCP Euro because of this video. I will keep it inside my x5 as backup when I begin to live in it full time. And yes, I need to make the intro video as well as the overlanding explainer video to show the completed rig...it's basically done now. Great video!
thanks for the video i have 2012 750i with two errors code 20A504 and 20A608 both related to this pump ...I'm planning to replace it ....do we use same coolant fluid as engine coolant?
My 2011 X5M is blowing black smoke.. I had code turbo intercooler fault DTC:002F1 D/ 002F29 also the engine is misfiring upon start up. I checked the intercooler coolant and it was empty, so I filled it, did the cycling but didnt see the fluid move at all!. I took it for a quick drive and came back and let it cool down, i check the fluid and levels and it was empty. I looked under the car when I first filled it and while it was idling and there was no fluid leaks... what is going on?
@@kobidog17 my guess is bad injector somewhere causing the smoke. Not sure about your coolant level... If you keep filling it up and it keeps disappearing with no visible leaks, obviously it's burning it, most likely due to a head gasket. Sad to say but you may have to take it to a professional and get it checked out
@@jcx2bby I had the injectors check out and they said they were fine.. the original index 12's... it is going back into the shop tomorrow... on going problem for over a year now. Thx for your help!
There is a fill line in the tank that you will use to know when it has enough. I buy BMW coolant at the dealer. It doesn't come premixed, so I mix it 50/50 with distilled water only.
@@jcx2bby Ok :) I have an error code on the AUX pump on ISTA, so I assume it is defective, it is also cold in and around the tank after a long drive. Engine temp. is perfectly fine.
Hello thank you for this great video, I have the same issue and just ordered my parts. May I ask if one of your symptoms for this problem is not having hearer? My air vent jsit blowing cold air.
You are correct 100% it was very challenging to change that, the hose was tough to take out so what I did, I use my hair blow dryer to heat the hose and that came out very easy. However, I bought the parts at amazon and the passenger side is blowing cold air lol. It’s ok for now as long I have heat to pass this winter:) thank you for your video they are very helpful.
I have noticed that my cars turbo aux pump isn't running after a 1hr drive at highway speeds & some traffic. I don't have any codes and car is running fine the temperature outside is in the 50s...is it possibly not being triggered due to ambient Temps? Car does show running temp on dashboard.
Turbochargers run so hot that they need cooling despite cooler ambient temps. If it's not running, and you're sure, I'd replace it. Take no chances on the N63 lol.
@@jcx2bby lol yeah I hear you. It's the route I went I overnight shipped it and should be here tomorrow. I appreciate your time making the video by the way. Very well documented.
Hello. I replaced the AUX pump and do exactly as you say at full heat, gas pedal 10 sec. etc. Heard it start hissing and the coolant disappeared from the tank like in your video but it never comes back? the tank was completely dry and the sound i heard was another pump? from under the second tank for engine cooling. Let it run for more than 10 minutes. but it never stopped, had to stop it myself when i had to drive away. Maybe I should have waited even longer? At least the AUX pump now works, gets heat in the cabin again when using the residual heat function.
Rene, was it the Aux pump you replaced or this little turbo/intercooler pump? The turbo pump wouldn't affect heat in the cabin. For the bleeding procedure, honestly, as long as you aren't overheating and the coolant is at proper level , you don't have to let the process 'complete'.
@@bmw6022 ok so that's the Turbo pump you changed. The N63 has 3 water pumps on it. The main mechanical one on the front of the engine, driven by the belt, an Electrical Aux pump down by the pass side front tire (very hard to see) and the turbo pump. You also have 2 reservoirs for all this. The turbo reservoir is right on top center of the engine. The main reservoir is on the driver's side. Make sure both are full. The turbo pump only runs when the engine is off, to cool down the turbos. It will vibrate slightly and make a little hum.
@jcx2bb7 great video. Question: i'm gong to do a lower temp thermostat, should i do that at the same time as this fix? does this job get you half ways to replacing the tstat?
Yes it gets you close. Be prepared for an onslaught of coolant to come out when you remove the thermostat enclosure. If you have time, order the real bmw coolant from FCPEuro or wherever you get your stuff. Thanks for watching.
Long term effect is that you ruin the turbos. The reason this cooling pump is there is to continue to run antifreeze/coolant through the turbos for 20 min or so after the engine is turned off. This cools the turbos down but also cools the oil that is in the turbos and and the lines going to and from them. If oil in the lines stays hot, it will congeal and clog the lines ruining the turbos in very short order. It will all depend on how hard you have been driving your car, how hot the turbos get and how fresh your oil is, etc. Personally I would not chance it. Get this error taken care of asap.
After running I check the reservoir and the fluid is cold shouldn’t it be hot or at least warm? Just wondering if my pump is bad as I have no lights on dash other than loss of power from motor shown on dash from time to time.Do you think I might have a bad pump? And what is the bmw number for the pump as I went to euro site and couldn’t find it on that site to match same numbers you had on video.
I would think the coolant would be warm, but it will depend on many factors e.g. how long did you run the car, what is the ambient temp, etc. To get the part# specific to your car go to realoem.com and look it up. That way you know for sure you have what will fit your vehicle.
quick question, I'm getting a cd9001 on an m6, charge air coolant system no communication with coolant pump. is it about this pump you're changing or one of the intercooler ones?
To be honest, I'm not sure about your situation. To my understanding the pump I show here strictly only cools the turbos after the car is turned off. There is another electric pump down low in front of the passenger side of the motor that is probably the one responsible for cooling around the intercoolers. Even if I'm right on that, I'm not sure that that would fix your specific error. Sorry
Well, not really. Assuming that the battery has enough voltage, I'm not aware of any other reason. Sometimes if the hood is open that can throw the computer into fits for various things.
I had the same issue, @11:08 OP said to turn it on automatic, I missed this step and it did not work the first few times... 2 years later I hope this helps someone else
@@jcx2bby yes the temperature. The little white lines by the redline on the cluster. I know on e90s those go down as the car would get warmed up. Is it the same as the x5?
@@williamghau1150 not as far as I know. Mine sure doesn't. The lines on the tach are permanent, at least on my E70 X5 so that wouldn't be possible. I think the M series cars might have had this feature though, not sure.
@@jcx2bby just finished replaced it bro but unfortunately it still has the error when I start the vehicle. I’m confused now. Not sure what else could be the issue.
Hey man I need some help here I did change the turbo coolant pump but the radiator light turn on when the car is start for a long time but previous problem is when cold start car the radiator light is on. Do you have any idea about this?
@@jpayne1001 not too bad of a job. I have a new Gates pump you can have if you want it. It's the warranty replacement for the pump that failed in this video. I don't blame you if you don't want it lol.
Hey, I'm not sure if anyone still Monitors these videos, But i have just changed my actuator but when i hold down the peddle for 10 seconds nothing happens, no noises, no coolant pumping through the hoses, it doesnt start the bleeding proceedure, any ideas why?
@@jcx2bby Hey, Thanks for the reply, my car is an x5M so it's a little different than the one in the video. It wasn't making much noise, but once i connected it to a scanner it confirmed that the pump was actually circulating the coolant.
The auxiliary water pump and turbo coolant pump are not the same thing. I'm showing the turbo pump. Your aux pump is down in front of the pass side front tire and yes, it is a bigger unit.
Are you sure it is running all night? I know they can run for 25 min or so, and if you have an old battery, it can discharge it pretty low. If it is indeed running all night if be suspicious of a bad temp sensor. That should be what tells the ecu to start and stop the pump.
@@CustomBarberChairsAtlanta Ah. Bummer. Have you scanned it for any codes? If it doesn't have any, I'd probably replace the temp sensor, there are 2, and see if that helps. You may have to ask BMW to diagnose it if all else fails. Good luck to you on this. If you figure it out, I'd love to hear what the solution was.
@@CustomBarberChairsAtlanta ok there's 2 of them. 1 in the thermostat housing and one on the pump. I have some other videos up that show those things. Also.... I just remembered that someone commented one time that they had a bad pump that would never stop running. It is possible the pump itself is the issue.
That's one way for sure. I just 'prefer' to buy the molded hoses if they are available. Sometimes when hoses get older, they can kink when they get hot. Especially the smaller ones with tighter bends. I OCD about that kind of stuff...but regular hose would probably do just fine.
Fyi - anyone reading this you can source 3/8in moulded EPDM hose and cut the same size which is what I did from any auto parts store. While you’re at it replace the tee’s with brass 1/2in tees like the author mentioned. Be sure to mark the current hoses locations and orientation to quickly reestablish your angles on the new tees/hoses. Btw - there is a white or yellow paint on I believe the supply hoses going to each turbo that I mimicked onto the new hoses to keep my OCD in check 😉. I also used new stainless factory style crimp connector clamps for a more original look and peace of mind than using worm style clamps. I used this part which had most of the same pre molded angles as original from Advanced Auto Parts hose - Dayco Molded Heater Hose: EPDM Rubber, Direct Fit, 3/8" Inside Diameter
Great video and lots of good information. As a BMW Tech, I have to add, this very critical bit of information. Make certain your battery is good, properly charged and if it was replaced, it needs to be properly registered - Battery Registration is very important- basically your BMW alternator output is controlled by the DME/ECU and if you do not register the battery- it will not charge the battery properly. Ive seen many turbos fail due to failure to replace and register batteries. The Auxiliary pump is electric and only runs after shut off. If the battery is weak, your computer will shut the auxiliary pump off prematurely in order to save battery power so the car will start up next time. Look up BMW's Battery replacement information on the N63 engine. It is way more frequent than any other model. If your battery is good, be certain to have a battery charger/power supply connected when performing the bleed procedure. Again, if the battery is weak, the bleed procedure will not initiate. Also see BMW Service Bulletin SI B61 30 14
Thanks for the great details Mike!
Okay jcx2bby, awesome great instructional video. Thanks. My hooptie is a 2013 E70 X5 50I, 65,000 miles, virgin to being fondled by a seasoned mechanic. I'd like to add a few things to this that I believe is extremely important. Learnt through my own trial, error, and pain. Please forgive my spelling and grammar that I am about to spit at you.First other than the error code here is how to tell if it's the turbo water pump that is whats shot causing the code and you don't need a fancy code reader gadget. After you have driven and your car is hot (it will be way hotter than normal) because when this little pump is shot your turbo's are going to be scorching. Turn the car off, open the hood and listen right above the location of the little pump, if you hear it running and it is making little clicking sounds then it is for sure shot and it's the reason that your coolant keeps getting low, the blistering hot turbo's are evaporating what coolant is barely able to get to them. Do not continue to drive the car when you get the error message, you may be setting yourself up for a disaster to your wallet. The car will continue to run blistering hot until it either burns off all of your coolant or the lack of coolant starts a chain reaction of breaking everything to include the turbos. What this video didn't show you was why the little pump was shot. After you get it out of the car and like me you have to know what is inside of it you more than likely will go at it to open it up. Before you do so shake it. You will probably hear that clicking sound. When you open it up pieces of conductive ceramic impeller will fall out. That is what was making the clicking noise. Now taking the old pump apart becomes an critical step in the process because you will need to inventory the pieces to make sure that none of them made it out of the pump and into your turbo's or other critical parts, absolutely imperative!! The little pump has a magnet in it that the impeller slips over and when power is applied to the magnet that causes the impeller to rotate, it is kept lubricated by the coolant, when the coolant runs low the impeller is running dry. You need to periodically check your coolant levels. These parts don't have much tolerance for running dry. If the coolant keeps getting low you need to find out why. Preparing to repair: before you even touch anything with a tool, open the hood and check what kind of hose clamps that you have. Unlike this video mine still had the factory hose clamps that require a special 80 dollar pair of pliers to remove. I tried everything to get the things to snap lose, prying with a screwdriver, horn nose clamp pliers from the auto store, nothing worked, the things are made of kryptonite, stronger than superman. And there was no way that I was going to get the bottom hose clamp off of the little pump. That left the Dremel, I simply cut on top of the clamp connector and they popped lose. You still have to digger with them a little to get the clamp the rest of the way off. So if you have those clamps you need to be prepared with the right tool to deal with them before you even start. Next, as this clip fails to mention until parts are already removed, first thing jack the car up, remove the skid plate and put a drain pan under the car and set the car back down. Before you remove hoses or the coolant reservoir tank in front of the turbo pump, suction the coolant out of the reservoir tank, saves you a big mess. Everything else is like the gentleman in this video says to do it. Most important thing he says is to prime that new little pump, I consider it critical to prime that little pump. Don't forget to do what the author says and run the priming sequence when done. Also I know I shouldn't have to mention this since we are all master mechanic pro's here but don't forget to replace the coolant when you are done or the priming sequence is futile. Don't run over your drip pan. Wish that I could add pics. Thanks for the video and good luck!!!
This worked for me thank you so much. 750i 2012, was getting same message. Engine hot drive moderately on cold start. Changed Turbo coolant pump (aux pump) as specified and boom. All good! I would hear a light ticking sound after turning car off ,guess that was the faulty pumping still trying. Thanks again my friend.
Outstanding! Thank you for taking the time to comment here, truly. Congrats on your success.
What was your symptom too knowing it was the turbo coolant pump (aux pump)? I can’t bleed the system on a n63 motor can that be the issue?
@@ramisiljazi9540 Not sure if it’s necessary to bleed the system, no symptoms just an annoying message saying the car is hot when indeed it’s not. Also after changing I realized the faulty pump was making noise before when i turned car off, noise stopped after part change. performance wise i didn’t feel a difference , but not replacing will lead to turbo failure eventually. Hope this helps it’s all I got lol
@@autowraps1159 I appreciate the reply!
So yeah. I skipped this step. Kept hearing whirring. Do this step. It fixed my problem. Thanks for the instructions.
Thanks for taking the time to comment amd congrats on the fix
Thank you very much for sharing FCP Euro!!! I just bought a Brand new thermostat for my 2011 BMW 328i xdrive, at orielys. Now iam going to get my water pump from FCP Euro. Thanks to you , my gosh you cannot play around with buying Japanese parts, for a BMW the computer will read it saying it’s a boot leg lol and it won’t work, must have the best salute to you brother 👨🏼✈️ BMW 4 life 💙🖤
It's nice to get a comment from another enthusiast. Many times I get comments from people who are fed up with bmw and tired of the repairs, expense, etc. Thanks for commenting.
FCPEuro is awesome. Have never let me down yet. And their lifetime warranty on oil is unbeatable. Has saved me 100s of dollars.
So I just ordered this unit from FCP Euro because of this video. I will keep it inside my x5 as backup when I begin to live in it full time. And yes, I need to make the intro video as well as the overlanding explainer video to show the completed rig...it's basically done now. Great video!
Faithfully watch all your stuff, I'm excited to see the X5 transformed!
So u have a part number from fcp
thanks for the video i have 2012 750i with two errors code 20A504 and 20A608 both related to this pump ...I'm planning to replace it ....do we use same coolant fluid as engine coolant?
Yup. Same stuff. Bmw blue coolant.
My 2011 X5M is blowing black smoke.. I had code turbo intercooler fault DTC:002F1 D/ 002F29 also the engine is misfiring upon start up.
I checked the intercooler coolant and it was empty, so I filled it, did the cycling but didnt see the fluid move at all!. I took it for a quick drive and came back and let it cool down, i check the fluid and levels and it was empty. I looked under the car when I first filled it and while it was idling and there was no fluid leaks... what is going on?
Black smoke usually indicates too much fuel .... Are those the only two codes you have?
@@jcx2bby I get a turbo boost code and cylinder misfires
@@kobidog17 my guess is bad injector somewhere causing the smoke. Not sure about your coolant level... If you keep filling it up and it keeps disappearing with no visible leaks, obviously it's burning it, most likely due to a head gasket. Sad to say but you may have to take it to a professional and get it checked out
@@jcx2bby I had the injectors check out and they said they were fine.. the original index 12's... it is going back into the shop tomorrow... on going problem for over a year now. Thx for your help!
@@kobidog17 good luck, I am interested to hear what you find out from the shop. Hopefully something not too expensive
Hello. Have F01 750i N63 and will change the pump, but wondering how much coolant should be in the tank? mixing ratio?
There is a fill line in the tank that you will use to know when it has enough. I buy BMW coolant at the dealer. It doesn't come premixed, so I mix it 50/50 with distilled water only.
@@jcx2bby Ok :) I have an error code on the AUX pump on ISTA, so I assume it is defective, it is also cold in and around the tank after a long drive. Engine temp. is perfectly fine.
Hello thank you for this great video, I have the same issue and just ordered my parts. May I ask if one of your symptoms for this problem is not having hearer? My air vent jsit blowing cold air.
Replace your heater control valve 100%
You are correct 100% it was very challenging to change that, the hose was tough to take out so what I did, I use my hair blow dryer to heat the hose and that came out very easy. However, I bought the parts at amazon and the passenger side is blowing cold air lol. It’s ok for now as long I have heat to pass this winter:) thank you for your video they are very helpful.
I have noticed that my cars turbo aux pump isn't running after a 1hr drive at highway speeds & some traffic. I don't have any codes and car is running fine the temperature outside is in the 50s...is it possibly not being triggered due to ambient Temps? Car does show running temp on dashboard.
Turbochargers run so hot that they need cooling despite cooler ambient temps. If it's not running, and you're sure, I'd replace it. Take no chances on the N63 lol.
@@jcx2bby lol yeah I hear you. It's the route I went I overnight shipped it and should be here tomorrow. I appreciate your time making the video by the way. Very well documented.
@@Chaos1187me thank you and good luck!
Awesome video, what is the size for the brass t fittings? Thank you
1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 brass PEX T-fitting. I got mine at Menards' for around a dollar.
Hello. I replaced the AUX pump and do exactly as you say at full heat, gas pedal 10 sec. etc. Heard it start hissing and the coolant disappeared from the tank like in your video but it never comes back? the tank was completely dry and the sound i heard was another pump? from under the second tank for engine cooling. Let it run for more than 10 minutes. but it never stopped, had to stop it myself when i had to drive away. Maybe I should have waited even longer? At least the AUX pump now works, gets heat in the cabin again when using the residual heat function.
Rene, was it the Aux pump you replaced or this little turbo/intercooler pump? The turbo pump wouldn't affect heat in the cabin.
For the bleeding procedure, honestly, as long as you aren't overheating and the coolant is at proper level , you don't have to let the process 'complete'.
@@jcx2bby I changed the same pump as you in the video. Small pump under the small tank in the middle of the engine. N63B44.
@@bmw6022 ok so that's the Turbo pump you changed. The N63 has 3 water pumps on it. The main mechanical one on the front of the engine, driven by the belt, an Electrical Aux pump down by the pass side front tire (very hard to see) and the turbo pump. You also have 2 reservoirs for all this. The turbo reservoir is right on top center of the engine. The main reservoir is on the driver's side. Make sure both are full.
The turbo pump only runs when the engine is off, to cool down the turbos. It will vibrate slightly and make a little hum.
Great video. Thanks
Appreciate your feedback
@jcx2bb7 great video. Question: i'm gong to do a lower temp thermostat, should i do that at the same time as this fix? does this job get you half ways to replacing the tstat?
Yes it gets you close. Be prepared for an onslaught of coolant to come out when you remove the thermostat enclosure. If you have time, order the real bmw coolant from FCPEuro or wherever you get your stuff. Thanks for watching.
How I buy it
The pump? FCP euro
Hi, just wanted to check, what is the long term affect if you don’t change it right away?
Long term effect is that you ruin the turbos. The reason this cooling pump is there is to continue to run antifreeze/coolant through the turbos for 20 min or so after the engine is turned off. This cools the turbos down but also cools the oil that is in the turbos and and the lines going to and from them. If oil in the lines stays hot, it will congeal and clog the lines ruining the turbos in very short order. It will all depend on how hard you have been driving your car, how hot the turbos get and how fresh your oil is, etc. Personally I would not chance it. Get this error taken care of asap.
After running I check the reservoir and the fluid is cold shouldn’t it be hot or at least warm?
Just wondering if my pump is bad as I have no lights on dash other than loss of power from motor shown on dash from time to time.Do you think I might have a bad pump?
And what is the bmw number for the pump as I went to euro site and couldn’t find it on that site to match same numbers you had on video.
I would think the coolant would be warm, but it will depend on many factors e.g. how long did you run the car, what is the ambient temp, etc.
To get the part# specific to your car go to realoem.com and look it up. That way you know for sure you have what will fit your vehicle.
the small reservoir in front is for the intercoolers, the larger one on drivers side is for the engine/turbos
How do you replace the little hose from the radiator to the auxiliary water pump
I have it covered in these two videos somewhere.
ruclips.net/video/PvnsPC8v8HE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/H2GqDfFQpos/видео.html
Good
Thanks.
quick question, I'm getting a cd9001 on an m6, charge air coolant system no communication with coolant pump. is it about this pump you're changing or one of the intercooler ones?
To be honest, I'm not sure about your situation. To my understanding the pump I show here strictly only cools the turbos after the car is turned off. There is another electric pump down low in front of the passenger side of the motor that is probably the one responsible for cooling around the intercoolers. Even if I'm right on that, I'm not sure that that would fix your specific error. Sorry
Me to, ever solved it?
Did u fix it ??
@@ashotarzumanyan9958 no bro sorry. better off with an m4, much more reliable and easier maintenance on it
Did you had a warning light engine running hot at the cold start?
Yes.
What yeae is this x5m? The coolant reservoir on my 2012 x5m is on the top right.
2013. Mine is also not an M. If you have the S63, it might be a bit different placement.
Any idea why i can't do the bleed process? I've tried before, but i don't get any circulation of the coolant after holding the gas pedal down.
Well, not really. Assuming that the battery has enough voltage, I'm not aware of any other reason. Sometimes if the hood is open that can throw the computer into fits for various things.
I had the same issue, @11:08 OP said to turn it on automatic, I missed this step and it did not work the first few times... 2 years later I hope this helps someone else
Does this require coding???
Nope! Plug it in and go
After installing mine. I got battery draining code, and a bunch of other stuff going on
And the engine hot drive moderately still appears after start up even after the car has been sitting for a week
@@PnwDcoe yes. That's a symptom of this.
@@jcx2bby symptom of what?
Hi. I need to replace this on my x5 I have the exact same error. The little lines on the redline is supposed to go down when the engine is warmed up?
Hi Will. I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean by little lines on the redline. Are you talking about temperature?
@@jcx2bby yes the temperature. The little white lines by the redline on the cluster. I know on e90s those go down as the car would get warmed up. Is it the same as the x5?
@@williamghau1150 not as far as I know. Mine sure doesn't. The lines on the tach are permanent, at least on my E70 X5 so that wouldn't be possible.
I think the M series cars might have had this feature though, not sure.
@@jcx2bby thanks for the info. I’m tackling this job tomorrow. Will follow this DIY. Hope I don’t need a code reader to remove the error.
@@jcx2bby just finished replaced it bro but unfortunately it still has the error when I start the vehicle. I’m confused now. Not sure what else could be the issue.
Hey man I need some help here I did change the turbo coolant pump but the radiator light turn on when the car is start for a long time but previous problem is when cold start car the radiator light is on. Do you have any idea about this?
I'm using bmw e71 n63
Is it code 2EA9? Is that what you mean by radiator light?
Yes
@@jasonho8709 did you clear the code after you changed the pump?
Yes I did could it be the wiring problem?
Have the same error message for my f10, will that fix it as well
What engine? N63, N55, etc?
@@jcx2bby N63
@@jpayne1001 I'm fairly confident it will then. This is a very specific code, referencing only that little pump.
@@jcx2bby okay thanks, will look into it as soon as possible
@@jpayne1001 not too bad of a job. I have a new Gates pump you can have if you want it. It's the warranty replacement for the pump that failed in this video. I don't blame you if you don't want it lol.
Hey, I'm not sure if anyone still Monitors these videos,
But i have just changed my actuator but when i hold down the peddle for 10 seconds nothing happens, no noises, no coolant pumping through the hoses, it doesnt start the bleeding proceedure, any ideas why?
Was your hood still open by chance? If so, close it and try again
@@jcx2bby Hey, Thanks for the reply, my car is an x5M so it's a little different than the one in the video.
It wasn't making much noise, but once i connected it to a scanner it confirmed that the pump was actually circulating the coolant.
@@pancakesaredope310 ok, right on. Congrats on the success.
My engine hot error is still displaying after changing the pump. Anyone know why? Do I have to reset the computer ?
Yes you have to reset the codes. I had the same thing happen.
Thank you. How did you reset it ?
@@felixroche1233 used a code reader. Just a generic one from Harbor freight
Yeah I have x6M s63 auxiliary water pump is bigger
The auxiliary water pump and turbo coolant pump are not the same thing. I'm showing the turbo pump. Your aux pump is down in front of the pass side front tire and yes, it is a bigger unit.
@jcx2bby are you referring to UK or US passenger side, I've been searching for the aux pump in my 2013 x5 35i drive?
My pump keeps running all night long and drains the battery in the morning? Anyone have the same issue?
Are you sure it is running all night? I know they can run for 25 min or so, and if you have an old battery, it can discharge it pretty low.
If it is indeed running all night if be suspicious of a bad temp sensor. That should be what tells the ecu to start and stop the pump.
@@jcx2bby I’m positive, I can come back into the garage 2 hrs later and I still hear it running.
@@CustomBarberChairsAtlanta Ah. Bummer. Have you scanned it for any codes? If it doesn't have any, I'd probably replace the temp sensor, there are 2, and see if that helps. You may have to ask BMW to diagnose it if all else fails. Good luck to you on this. If you figure it out, I'd love to hear what the solution was.
@@jcx2bby I had a feeling it might be a failed sensor. It’s not throwing any codes at the moment. I’ll give that a try and let you know. Thanks
@@CustomBarberChairsAtlanta ok there's 2 of them. 1 in the thermostat housing and one on the pump. I have some other videos up that show those things.
Also.... I just remembered that someone commented one time that they had a bad pump that would never stop running. It is possible the pump itself is the issue.
I just buy 3/8 heater hose and cut it to the length I need, why spend more then necessary I say.
That's one way for sure. I just 'prefer' to buy the molded hoses if they are available. Sometimes when hoses get older, they can kink when they get hot. Especially the smaller ones with tighter bends. I OCD about that kind of stuff...but regular hose would probably do just fine.
Fyi - anyone reading this you can source 3/8in moulded EPDM hose and cut the same size which is what I did from any auto parts store. While you’re at it replace the tee’s with brass 1/2in tees like the author mentioned. Be sure to mark the current hoses locations and orientation to quickly reestablish your angles on the new tees/hoses. Btw - there is a white or yellow paint on I believe the supply hoses going to each turbo that I mimicked onto the new hoses to keep my OCD in check 😉. I also used new stainless factory style crimp connector clamps for a more original look and peace of mind than using worm style clamps. I used this part which had most of the same pre molded angles as original from Advanced Auto Parts hose - Dayco Molded Heater Hose: EPDM Rubber, Direct Fit, 3/8" Inside Diameter