X5M(S63 Engine) Owners, Keep Your Turbos Alive - Check the Aux Turbo Coolant Pump
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
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One device you need to maintain your X5M, is this bluetooth voltage analyzer and logger, it connects to the battery and graphs out the cranking voltage! It does what it says, I use it and am more than happy with it. It'll tell you if your battery is getting weak, replace it immediately before your engine stalls at WoT. Clean (and add di-electric grease to) all your batter terminals, cable terminals to your positive and negative connection points of your car to maximize power delivery to your BMW, minimizing any issues.
Bluetooth Car Voltage Analyzer and Logger: tidd.ly/2HEpoL7 (Download Torque for free)
I wanted to get the word out there, check your aux coolant pump flow every time you pump gas!! Or more! It will pay off.
The pump costs $230+ new from parts stores, or $100 flat from the dealership. Check yours, as it may be burnt out, and no check engine light will come up. Carly can throw a code if it's broken, but may throw one even if it's brand new, the only way to confirm it's working is to see the flow, or in this case, feel for flowing coolant. If you don't feel anything, you better diagnose it by taking it apart! I've had brand new pumps just jitter instead of spinning and pumping. This cheap part can save you from thousands in repairs. The hot-V of the V8 gets really hot, since it exhausts into the V, normal V8 engines exhaust out the sides. They did this for performance, but now we must suffer a hot-V.
This pump runs off an IC in the pump, the coolant is 105C, that means the integrated circuit, solid state devices, are exposed to very hot temperatures, this can lead to premature failure. The brushless motor is strong for it's size and reliable, but the solid state devices can fail without warning, that's why checking it is so important.
Also, I didn't mention or show this, but take off the cover with the M colors on it, and you'll find rubber coolant hoses connected to all the aluminum pipes with cheap hose clamps, those connections come loose and start spilling coolant, causing a mess! I did this right after I got the car, and it was to remove all those crappy hose connections, and put high quality stainless hose clamps on there. I check them every once in a while for leaks, and can tighten them up if needed. You could also wrap silicone(held in place with a little electrical tape) around the hose, and put the hose clamp on top of that, it will help create a better seal. Metal to natural rubber causes cracks and leaks, so the silicone will help reduce stress on the rubber and prolong it's lifespan.
Hope this helps!
Let me know if you have any questions!
Cheers, David.
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Thank you. I’m new to the S63 and I want mine to last as long as possible. I’ll be sure to check when I get home. 🙌
Nice! The S63 is a beast of an engine. I'm still enjoying mine every day! With great power comes great responsibility.
I would also recommend changing your engine oil more frequently than they recommend, as it can help reduce wear and reduce risk of encountering other problems in the S63 that are oil related. Oil is cheap if you replace it yourself, so it's a small price to pay to reduce wear and risk. Also, get only quality oil filters, I trust Mann only, I've had problems with other brands.
Cheers!
David.
@@DavidSunshine which oil are you using ?
@@krankrolling Hi,
I use Castrol Edge FTT 0W40, European Formula.
Cheers,
David
There is a “recall” on this part and will be replaced for free at the dealer. My 2012 has 110k miles and just mine replaced. Thanks for the video and awareness of this part and potential problem
Lucky! Glad they are fixing yours. Did they mail you to say it's a recall fix? Or do you have to ask them? Mine is 2013, no recall on mine cuz apparently they fixed it... Still seems to be a problem prone part though. I'll be keeping an eye on it, and I would recommend any S63 owner keep an eye on it as well, especially if it's new, to make sure it doesn't fail prematurely. Cheers!
David.
So we can splice the wireing and run a digital scan inside car to keep and eye on voltage .once we turn car off .
Nice work
Yup! That's a great idea. Or you can buy a car battery Bluetooth volt meter, and it can keep track of the voltage from a distance, and even keep a log of it. Then you can connect to it by your phone, less convenient than just a volt read out, but has some benefits.
Cheers!
David.
Hey if there's no vibration in the left line that means the pump isn't working?
Hi,
That's the feed line to the pump(it leads down to the pump's intake, so it's sucking on the left side), so you should feel some vibrations from that fluid getting pulled on by the impellers. If you don't, but the pump is spinning, it might be that there is air in the system and needs to be bled or filled up. I didn't do anything special though, I just filled the left coolant tank(for intercooler system, not the right one which is the main radiator). Do you have leaks on the coolant line connections? There's a bunch of them all above the turbos. If those leak then your coolant goes low over time which can lead to low levels and air in the system, it won't throw any troubles and your turbos will just cook over the and seize up. It's a really bad design with no sensors to warn you, which is why it's so important to check the proper operation yourself, which you're doing now so that's great!
My pump failed and it didn't even say a thing. Luckily I caught it cuz I have the energy meter, which I keep an eye on to make sure the pump pulls about 12w. If it doesn't, that means it isn't circulation coolant properly throughout the turbos.
If you install a Bluetooth energy meter you can check on it from your phone too, without going under the hood.
Sometimes the pump just fails, I had one fail after 1 day, brand new from BMW!
Good luck!
Cheers,
David.
@DavidSunshine sounds good I can definitely feel vibrations when the car is turned on but when it's off there's barely any vibration can't even tell of its working or not
Can you find me a link for the aux coolant pumps? I’m not sure what the right ones are.
Hi,
It's the Auxillary Turbo coolant pump, as show here: www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=11517629916
It's about the same price from the BMW dealership part's counter, but a brand new one from them failed a day later, so I don't think their quality control is great. GATES is a great brand, so I would actually go that route before getting another BMW pump.
It doesn't take much to replace, and I could do it with a few tools in a car park. Just need to replace it, and top up the coolant. You should probably bleed the system from the top bleed screws, but I never did, instead, I just brought it up to operating temperature and did a few WoT launches, it purged all the bubbles out, and it started pumping fluid after that. I had a wireless amp meter on it, so I could see when the pump was in cavitation, without that, you will have to check the hose for vibrations to verify that it's pumping and flowing coolant through the turbos, instead of cavitation(which sounds like vibration of the impeller), or it's just spinning without any turbulent flow through the hoses, which are both bad, and if that's the case, you should go drive around and do a few more high rev pulls or launches.
Hope that helps!
Cheers,
David.
Do you know if this pump failing will cause a engine loss of power malfunction also those pipes are super hot I don’t hear my car cooling off anymore once parked as it used too please let me know thanks .
Hi Denis,
The engine power loss isn't the pump. Scan with Carly and see what it says. I had that and it was just the cam shaft position sensor, I cleaned the connection and it was fine since. Just wiggle the connector and it'll be fine too.
Cheers,
David.
David Sunshine hi David the only codes that were received were for the aux coolant pump off for the turbos and it seemed rather hot of the hoses like to burn your hand if touched. I’ll be changing that out today and resetting to see if it goes away .
Denis Reckovic hey Denis! Any luck with your truck. My truck is doing the same thing. Let me know if it’s possible
@DENIS74199 what did u find out? I'm going through this now and had my truck inspected and they said the same... can u confirm this was your issue? 🙏🏾
Do you now how to coolant bleed the system cause it is different from other bmw I have bmw x6M 2014 thanks
Hi Sunny,
I actually don't have the bleed procedure. There are two coolant systems, one for the intercooler which is connected to this aux Turbo coolant pump, that's the one we're working on here, then there's the engine coolant system which will be similar to the other engine coolant systems, with the reservoir on the driver side. After swapping the pump, I just topped up fluid in the passenger side reservoir and ran the engine, driving around. There was air in the system but after flooring it a few times it seemed to have self-bled. From this forum, there's some info on flush and bleed, sounds like one user suggests flooring it as well.
The next time I flush, I was thinking I could disconnect the top hose and fill coolant there until the air is mostly out. There's also a screw there, intake and output hoses, if you have a syringe you could fill in fluid until every bubble is out of the system. I might give that a try when I flush the system.
Good luck!
Cheers,
David.
I checked today and mine was vibrating I could feel it pushing liquid through. However the little resvoir by the engine oil cap was cold. Is that normal? Can anyone advise please
Hi,
That's great that you feel vibrations, that means you have flow. If there's even 100ml of air in the system, you'll have pump cavitation and flow will stop. If both tubes are vibrating then your system is flowing nicely, those 2 tubes should be warm. The reservoir has no flow, so it can be the ambient temperature. It's only where expansion fluids go, or used for make up fluid. When the engine is cooled, open the passenger side intercooler coolant reservoir cap and make sure the level is topped up to max. You can also check your engine coolant level on the driver side coolant reservoir cap. Both must be good to maximize cooling of the S63.
Hope that helps!
Cheers,
David.
I just got the pump today, mine is making some bearing grinding noise so it'll need to be replaced.
Do you know what the procedure is to replace the turbo aux pump? Do I go from the top of removing the air intakes or do I have to remove the radiator to access it?
Hi,
Ya it'll be good to replace it
It's easy, you can do it from the top by just removing the intake.
Then a couple torx and it's out.
The pain is the coolant lines but if you can get your hands in there it'll be ok. You'll want the proper sized hose clamps on hand to replace the factory ones, they garbage. It's the same size as the ones up top. I replaced all of mine while I was at it, since those fail all the time when the rubber goes bad. You might want new hoses when you do this job, but check it out first and see if that's the case.
I didn't do a special bleed procedure after doing mine, but that's probably a good idea. I just poured coolant into the lines from the top of the hoses to prime it the best I could and remove as much air from the system as possible. No need to remove the radiator, just be careful not to cut your hand on the sharp metal brackets, wrap them in black tape before you jam your hand in there.
Cheers!
David.
@@DavidSunshine Thank you so much, appreciate it.
Do you have a part number for the pump
Yup, for my 2013 it was "11517629917", purchased at the dealership for $100 CDN, surprised it was so cheap cuz it was $350 at Lordco. I'm guessing that it was discounted maybe cuz it was a recalled part in the previous year? Not sure why. Good luck!
What about that crickets I heard in your engine
Lol I wouldn't bother them in their natural habitat.
I think that was actually a car driving by with a squeaking belt, they need to get a Gates brand belt, those are awesome and can fix a squeaking problem, it worked for me in my past cars.
Cheers!
David.
Do you know which code is logged? 00A6D1??
You'll see 002EA9 for a Turbocharger coolant pump fault, but it'll come back if you clear the codes, even if you have a new pump in there as it's working fine. I think it's just bad programming on their part, BMW ignores that code at the dealership. But if you unplug your pump, or if it's actually broken, it'll throw that code, and they will continue to ignore it, which is stupid. So basically you need to verify the pump is pumping on your own, with your hand or an energy meter. It's a pretty bad system, I wish it had an engine light when the pump failed, but maybe in the future they will add that diagnostic feature.
You should try unplugging the pump, and seeing what code you see, for me, I throw that code whether I have a working pump connected (after a day or two of driving) or not (right away).
Cheers,
David.
bad design if it won’t warn you with error code. Seems critical.
Haha, yup, that's what I thought!! I troubleshot this stuff a lot, it never once warned me with a check engine light, and yes, it may take months or years to have a failed Turbo, but I think it is critical as well! BMW programming doesn't suggest this. If you go and unplug the aux Turbo pump, it won't even twitch, will just keep running like nothing is wrong! This is very alarming. That's why I installed the energy meter and check it every once in a while. I also had a Bluetooth energy meter in there for a while and was checking every drive for a few weeks until I gained confidence in it, now I open the hood and check it every month or so. At least I won't go that long with heat soak cooking my oil.
If I can help one person with this info, and save a Turbo, I'm happy!
Cheers!
David.
That might have been turned off by bmw because it was killing battery
I wouldn't put anything past BMW!
Anyway engine need rebuild after 50000 km
That could be the case, in some cases. What specific problems would require a rebuild every 50,000kms? I have friends who had no issues over 200,000kms from the S63, they maintained it religiously though. I could see a failed aux pump causing clogged oil lines and needing a rebuild. I would recommend changing the engine oil every 10,000kms instead of 25,000 like the internal says. It's only $50 on sale for the oil so if you do it yourself it's not that bad. Mahle filters only, as the other ones break, and if that happens, then yes, the engine would probably wear down prematurely cuz there's nothing but gunk following through the turbo coolant lines, and the rest of the engine.
These will last over 200,000kms if maintained properly, with very little issues. Then you may start to run into major issues.
Cheers,
David.
@@DavidSunshine I'm joking ofcourse, because heard so many times that bmw's 4.4 twin turbo not reliable.
@@ivanmamedov90 lol, every joke has some truth behind it. The S63 is a great engine, but it's complicated too so it needs routine maintenance otherwise it could need some rebuilding, I think that's where the stories about rebuilds comes from. If users don't change the engine oil often, that could cause issues over time(excessive oil consumption, turbo line clogs, VANOS issues). The coolant lines for the turbos can leak, so I've replaced the hose clamps with stainless steel ones to keep that from happening, but if that goes unmanaged it could also lead to major issues, similar to the aux coolant pump.
The X5/X6 partition can also crack and leak into the engine, gotta replace or seal that before it creates huge issues.
So like any BMW engine, if we keep up with the maintenance, it should perform well for a long time.
Cheers!
David.