USMC03-1408 - That is very humbling.. Thanks!! I’ve got a few more projects on deck, hope to post more very soon. More importantly.. Semper Fi, DevilDog! Thank you for your service 🇺🇸👍🏼
I saw you, USMC--me3ig, trying to control the freedom of speech of a disabled Iraq War Veteran, jarhead. I have every right to speak out against my crooked cop father victim-blaming me for being raped while deployed to your bullshit war.
This is the first I've seen of these paint videos that is actually intelligently done and isn't just slopping paint mindlessly all over every part of the weapon all in 1 pass.
Thanks, Jeff! Just a touch of OCD .. 😂 I like things “just so.” In terms of the AR, not everyone is as confident with a complete disassembly, and that’s ok I suppose... Rattle-can camo works, but isn’t going to cut it with me. In addition, I had a vision in mind for this AR, before I even started procuring parts to build it from the ground-up. Purpose-built for deer hunting, I tried to cherry pick the colors most commonly associated with my deer hunt camo of choice, Realtree Xtra. It works very well ..thanks again, for the kind comment 🙂👍🏼
Nice! Yeah I thought it was laziness but I guess you're right, probably 80% of people don't have the tools or know-how to break everything down. I like to know I'm not helpless in the event that there are no gunsmiths.
Thanks, Travis! I had a lot of fun with this project. The 4 different colors that I used are very similar to the colors found in the ‘Realtree Xtra’ hunting camo pattern. (My deer hunting camo of choice). It actually pairs up nicely, despite the ripped shapes.
Watched this video over a year ago when I first started learning to stencil and copied parts to do my first paid job. Just happened across it in my saved videos. Understand now what a detailed and outstanding job you did right there, kudos
Definitely the sweetest one I've seen.... very nice! Making it all align from the mag well to the mag is just that massive extra attention to detail that 99% don't bother with.
THE WILD LIFE - An Outdoorsman's Blog - - Much obliged, my friend! More projects coming soon! The idea with the 300BLK was to break away from Montactical’s “Riptile” standard color scheme, and try to mimic and use the 4 primary colors found in the “Realtree Xtra” hunting-camo pattern. (My deer hunting pattern of choice) The 2 Magpul 10rd mags I did with this rifle utilize “-5” capacity-reduction plugs, which meet legal requirements for deer hunting in Michigan.
Haha! Thanks.. This particular Anderson Lower seemed actually very well made.. Runs like a Rolex, the tolerances and specs were spot on, and at Anderson’s Sub-$80 price point, it didn’t break my heart to paint it 🤘🏼😎 Happy Thanksgiving
DeadisBetter - Thank you very much! This project was one of personal favorites. Built from the ground up, using my imagination. Purpose-built for deer season, (hence the two10rd mags, I use -5 limiters in them) I tried to use the 4 most common colors in the hunting camo pattern, Realtree Xtra. It’s a joy to shoot, and garners intrigue from other shooters at the range. Thanks again for the kind words! Consider subscribing, more projects lined up soon! 🇺🇸
@barry parks - Thanks! I had a lot of fun with this project. It’s a joy to shoot.. purpose-built for deer hunting. Hence, the two 10rd magpul mags. I run “-5 limiters” in them to make them compliant for Michigan deer season.
Much obliged… The camo pattern, and stencil pattern, is called “Riptile.” It was designed by James from Montactical, and he sells this stencil pack, among others, at freedomstencils.com. His original design called for different colors, tailored more for the desert. I tried to cherry pick the four main colors found in the Realtree Xtra pattern, my hunting camo of choice. So, I called this pattern: “Woodland Riptile.”
I appreciate the fast response. Are you going to put out any more videos on Duracoating. I watched all your other videos and I enjoyed watching you master the art. I just started Duracoating back in June. I’ve done magazines, tumblers and ammo boxes. Now it’s time to do a rifle.
Thanks, Jeff! I will definitely put out more content as soon as I can. I had a few projects outlined for last summer & fall, but I caught the wu-flu and it nearly killed me. I’ve also been considering an overhaul of this channel, including a name-change. Not doing this commercially yet, just as a hobby these days.. good to hear you’re Duracoating.. it’s a fun way of personalizing your stuff! Have a great day!
This is a beautiful job, I like how you matched it with the magazines to look as one continuous peice, outstanding! I've never actually seen a left handed rifle
@Joey Zee - Thanks, Joey! Lefty AR15s aren’t technically “necessary,” but if you shoot from the left shoulder, it makes the experience MUCH more pleasant... and slightly safer, as well. (The ejected brass doesn’t pass in front of your face). The only two components that make it a truly “Lefty AR” would be the upper receiver (with the ejection port & forward assist), and the Bolt Carrier Group. An ambidextrous safety switch and charging handle (which I prefer) is really all a left-handed shooter would require on a “Standard” AR15, and you’d be good to go.
@@p99shooter your video gave me inspiration for the paint on mine, not nearly as good as yours but I really like mine, I did white, navy, and blue and black. But yours is definitely one of the nices ones I've ever seen
Daniel Hosier - Thanks, Daniel! James from Montactical designed the Riptile pattern with a specific set of colors in mind. But his colors mimic more of an arid desert climate (Nevada). I did do a Rifle in those Riptile colors, (video of it on my channel) and it looks sweet. For this 300BLK, I tried to choose 4 of the primary colors found in the “Realtree Xtra” Camo pattern, which mimics the climate in N Michigan where I hunt Whitetail. (The two Magpul 10-rd Mags that I painted use “-5 rd plugs” to make them ‘hunt-legal’ in Michigan)
Ever since I seen Montactical do that Riptile and you doing this I am going to dive in and do this to my fightlight Raider scr. There are so many black guns out there. Its nice to see some detailed artwork others appreciate. Kudos to you fine work.
Warlord2029 - Thanks! For my very 1st attempt at Duracoating a rifle, I just did a single color of Sunrise Bronze using the disposable, Preval, “Shake-N-Spray” kit. It worked very well, but I wanted to try doing more detailed designs that could only be achieved via airbrushing. I invested a whopping $60 for a complete airbrush/ compressor kit off of Amazon. It works great! Go for it! Just take it slow, take your time, let the diff coats cure, and keep the airbrush super clean between coats..
That’s very kind of you… …Much obliged, Sir! My first couple of projects, including this 300BLK, were simply done with a basic, $60 airbrushing combo kit off of Amazon. It’s best used for very small hobby projects, or for cake makers. Excessive run times would continuously empty the smallish tank, and subsequently, the motor would run hot due to the constant re-filling. Additionally, that would also add moisture into the lines, and create a whole new set of problems. I now run a Dewalt pancake style compressor with the 6lb tank. SO much better. One can always do creative things without an airbrush. The biggest advantage is having more control over fine detail.
Fantastic job! I'm glad I came across this video because that is kind of the vision I've had except opposite on colours with more tan and brown under and green on top. I've seen guys use netting and stuff but that reptile stencil is nice. Again sir...GREAT WORK!
Mike - Thanks! The mesh that I used came with a Riptile Kit: www.freedomstencils.com/products/riptile-camouflage-stencil-kit You can get a similar mesh pattern by buying a cheap 2-pack of those collapsible laundry bags at Walmart, and cutting a large swatch to use!
Mike - nope, baking not required.. Ceracoat requires baking. With Duracoat, patience is KEY. I find that for best results, when doing multiple layers, is to wait no less than 24 hours for cure time in between coats. Cure time can be sped up a bit by baking painted parts at 200°F for 20 mins, though. As time goes on.. weeks, months, and even years, the finish gets tougher and more durable with age..just like a fine wine
@@p99shooter ok thanks. I was gonna rattle can it but don't want it to wear off shortly. It's going on to be on my bolt action .308 so we'll see. Thanks again.
Another two questions, sorry. How long do you wait before pulling off the vinyl stickers? Just the same 24 hours? And do you spray a clear coat of some kind on top? Thanks again.
bass779 - You’re too kind! It’s sort of cliche’, but Duracoat is just like a fine wine. When applied “correctly,” the coating will get better, and stronger, with age. Opening day of Michigan 2017 deer season was very rainy, but the finish repelled the water nicely..
Slinkman2021 - Thank you! Building & painting an AR from the ground up is fun and a great experience. I think it’s an interesting paint scheme. I tried to use colors commonly found in my State’s foliage.
@@p99shooter I am really wanting to do a riptile paint job on my Aero 5.56. I’m wanting to be a base color of flat dark earth, and do a bronze color rattle snake skin mesh, then do a dark brown final coat over, and have the snake skin come through the stripes.
Slinkman2021 - That would look really slick.. good vision👍🏼 Consider going with Bronze on your small parts, too. Bolt catch paddle, safety paddles, trigger, etc. (Taping off what ain’t visible on those parts, of course.) It’d make the Bronze snakeskin pattern really pop. 🐍😈
@@p99shooter Yeah I think so as well, I'm pretty stoked about the idea. I didn't really even think about the small parts, good call. I'm definitely going to do that. It will be my first paint job so I'm not sure how clean it will turn out but I'm sure that I'll get it.
Ha! Thanks! There’s no way you can ruin any of your airbrushes! Now, you ARE mixing an epoxy hardener at a 12:1 ratio into your paint, but as long as you take your brush apart and clean it promptly, the paint won’t have a chance to harden up and seize up the internal components of your airbrush. I keep plenty of Duracoat “reducer“ on hand, (works like a paint thinner), and cleans up everything nicely. The stencil kit is called “Riptile,” can be obtained at freedomstencils.com
Thanks for the questions, L L! For airbrushes, I usually run ‘PointZero’ brand..gravity-feed for fine detail, or siphon-feed for larger surface areas. The compressor’s PSI can vary, but somewhere in the 35-50psi range is usually sufficient. I was initially just using a basic, 1/5 HP little air compressor. (the air brushes came with it as part of a kit.) Damn thing was more appropriate for a baker painting cakes.😂 I have since upgraded my compressor to a Dewalt, pancake style. The problem with those small tanks, is that they empty too quickly during the project, so the motor is constantly running to refill the tank during the job. Hence, it gets really hot, and then starts spitting moisture out the nozzle. Which is no damn good. Probably wouldn’t hurt for me to do a quick video on my setup/equipment. Thanks again!
@p99shooter thank you so much for the response. I'm gonna subscribe and hopefully when you get the time to make a video of that I'll check it out. I wanna get started in it but not sure how to set it up.
So sorry to hear that Kirk. I would be MORE than happy to transfer any knowledge I have about lefty-AR builds for you. I haven’t put out any content for a while, as I’ve had distractions. But you’ve just given me inspiration for a video.
@@richarde5718 - thanks, Richard! It’s made of a heat resistant vinyl, very forgiving for the peeling process.. you can use any type of mesh for the mesh pattern, but I think they include a mesh pattern with the kit now. You can obtain the kit here: www.freedomstencils.com/products/riptile-camouflage-stencil-kit
Thanks! Though right-handed, I’ve always enjoyed shooting long guns from the left shoulder due to my being cross-eyed-dominant. Lefty ARs just made sense to me. I still shoot pistol from the right hand. I’m not sure of the availability right now, but if you are still looking for a pre-made lefty AR, I highly recommend checking out Stag Arms. Great rifles.
Thank you. The paint is made by Duracoat. Before spraying, you mix Duracoat’s clear, epoxy hardener into the paint at a 12:1 ratio. When it dries, and cures, you get a very durable finish which helps protect your project from water, oils, solvents and natural wear and tear. The Duracoat colors I used for this project are: #79 Magpul Flat Dark Earth #T8 Tactical Woodland Green #T9 Tactical Woodland Brown #4 Matte Black
@Plaidcladcanuck - Thanks! If you were to check out the other Lefty Riptile AR I did on my channel, take note of the colors I used. They came part of a kit, and were pre-determined by the pattern’s designer. Works well in the Southwest US, but for this 300BLK, I went with colors found in my state of Michigan. If you were to go with all “tan-ish” colors, in order to help this particular pattern stand out a bit, I would recommend going with vastly varying shades of colors in the “Dark Earth” category. See the attached link below.. I believe there are approximately 17 colors in the FDE palate of colors, not to mention their “tactical” line of colors. Don’t forget a little Matte Black to make the pattern pop! www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/duracoat-standard-colors-earths-p/dcdarkearths-liquids.htm
Paul De Joseph - Cool! Have fun! That’s unfortunate about the hardener.. I wanna say that the last few times I’ve bought Duracoat paints online, small hardener bottles were included... Also, gotta have plenty of Reducer on hand for airbrush cleanup and whatnot. In terms of multiple coats? Shouldn’t need multiple coats for Riptile, because in a sense, this pattern already has 2-3 layers to it.. just make sure your base coat has thorough coverage. I’ve got a video coming soon demonstrating a distressing technique.. 😎👍🏼
@@p99shooter lol have plenty of reducer. Bought that by accident is stead of hardener. In was going to email them in a minute to see if any gardener will do buddy is a auto painter. I do have the little ones that came with the paint. Do I have to media blast my stuff or will brake clean and acetone work? I can't wait I hope it come out as good as yours. Can't wait for the next video. Subscribing to you now. Thanks for the help and advice
Brake Clean/ Acetone, or Duracoat’s Tru-Strip aerosol.. any of which is fine, and definitely required for degreasing. (Duracoat won’t adhere well to any oily spots).. Degrease 1st, then rough up the surface 2nd (to aid adhesion).. Media Blasting can ALWAYS give you the most consistently roughed-up surface, but in my very first attempt at Duracoating an AR15, I only used a 3M Scotch-Brite pad for roughing up the surface, and it still looked GREAT. (My Sunrise Bronze AR, the subject of my next vid..). Duracoat usually applies very thin, so deep scratches and imperfections can still show through sometimes, so rough your surface as evenly as possible, if that makes sense... 🇺🇸😎👍🏼
Dan C. - Sorry you had some issues.. I was just using a small, 1/5HP style compressor. It seems to max out at 60psi. Because of it’s smallish tank, it kicks on often, and refills as you go. What kind of issue did you have? Duracoat inventors, Lauer Custom Weaponry, have a help-line for painting questions.. I’ve utilized it myself..
when i first started it seemed to work fine about 5 min into the project it just stopped spraying tried to clean it that didn't work. i couldn't get my compressor up that high on the psi. maybe around 30psi. it was a master airbrush compressor. any suggestions would be appreciated. i figured i would try one of those pancake ones from lowes that i can go up that hi on.
Hi, Edward- great question..Actually, the muzzle device on this project is not a suppressor, but is actually a linear compensator made by Aluma-Lite. The Duracoat holds up just fine on this rifle. For extreme heat protection, as on suppressors, Duracoat makes a paint that is extremely tolerant to heat called “Dura-heat.” Haven’t used it, but I’m told it works well.
Thanks, Jeff! I recently got a DeWalt pancake-style compressor, and I’ve been keeping the output set btwn 40-50 psi. It seems to be a good amount for Duracoat work.
@@Ruby_Sterling - Thank You! The number stencils for the “111” were just from a basic stencil pack from a Joann’s Fabric shop. The Riptile stencils are from FreedomStencils.com
Vahan Gabriyelyan - Great question. Clear coating will always add that extra layer of protection for the finished product, but it’s completely optional. Duracoat is already resistant enough to repel water and minor handling. With hard use, your firearm can “wear” in the high-traffic spots, adding character to it’s finish. 😎👍🏼
On this 300BLK, it is the plastic MOE, because the paint will adhere to it. However, I DO have the “rubberized” MOE+ on my Bronze Stag-152L. HIGHLY recommend the MOE+. Very comfortable!
Thanks for the questions! For airbrushes, I usually run ‘PointZero’ brand..gravity-feed for fine detail, or siphon-feed for larger surface areas. My PSI can vary, but somewhere in the 35-50psi range is usually sufficient.
@@p99shooter Thanks for the answers. What size tip do you use? Needless to say your videos makes me really want to do my own painting. There's a shop out here that charges $385 for camo pattern that dont look nearly as nice as what you did in this video.
@@UnfundedLiability - That’s very flattering! You should totally DIY. It’s really fun, and it’s great art therapy. I’ve been meaning to do a video on my set up, this might inspire me
Thanks, Jeff! I did media blast the scope. I used the same media for all the parts, 120grit Aluminum Oxide... I just made sure to surgically tape off both lenses, the rubberized magnification dial, and the windage/elevation dials. I used masking tape, then gorilla tape on top of that, as it is more robust. There were still a few granules that found their way into the magnification dial, as it felt a little gritty when turning it. But eventually I was able to use compressed air to get them out.
Hey, QBERT ~ I find that waiting 24 hrs gives the best results. Pro tip: if you have any “gummy residue” left behind after ALL of your stencils have been peeled, a small amount of orange Goo-B-Gone on a paper towel wipes it away nicely. It won’t remove the new Duracoat paint.
WhenPigsDie - Thanks! Used it for deer season this year. It was a joy. The two 10-rd Magpul mags I painted on this project have “-5” round limiters in them to make them hunt-legal in Michigan.
Thanks, Corey! Much appreciated.. This project was one of my personal favs.. The “Riptile Mesh” that I used came included with the Riptile Stencil pack from FreedomStencils.com However, you can always improvise a mesh pattern, as well. Good alternatives would be to pick up a cheap mesh laundry bag from Walmart or the dollar store, or even use a piece of mesh from a produce bag of oranges or pears. I’ve even seen Halloween cobweb doilies from the Halloween stores used.. You only need a swatch of fabric approximately the size of a standard envelope, so the possibilities are endless! Good luck!
Brandon Clark - Brandon Clark - Hi, great question.. It was a pretty basic, non-adjustable, Low Profile Gas Block. It was one I just happened to have on hand for this build. I believe it was made by CMMG, or Yankee Hill. However, after scouring the internet, I can’t seem to find this “exact” model available for sale anywhere. I can tell you that I would’ve bought it from either Brownell’s or MidwayUSA. The market is SO saturated with AR parts these days, I wouldn’t be surprised if this model was discontinued. I can, however, tell you that it rides on a 16” CMMG barrel (mid-length), with a Spikes Tactical Melonited mid-length gas tube. Flawless functionality so far. 👍🏼
THANKS! I am wanting to build and 300 blackout so I trying to get a parts list of things that are proven to work well together. I have just mixed things about the 300 blackout. Awesome looking guns that you build!!
Jay Lawrence - Hello.. Great question.. Yes, indeed.. at the time I bought them, the stencils came in one long roll.. with a small swatch of mesh.. Their website now looks like they sell them in separate sheets. www.freedomstencils.com/products/riptile-camouflage-stencil-kit
Thanks.. I ordered all of my Duracoat paints through Lauer Custom Weaponry. Numerous online retailers sell them, though. www.lauerweaponry.com The airbrush kit I used is available on Amazon as a complete kit for about $60-$70. Everything you need to DIY. It came with a decent small air compressor, hoses, and 2 brushes made by PointZero. A siphon-feed (glass bottle on the bottom) and the gravity-feed (cup on top). The latter being best for sharp-shooting fine lines and detail work. The hardener that you mix into the Duracoat paint can gunk up the airbrush’s needle-tips. Just keep them clean as you go, and in between different colors or coats. It’s a helluva lot of fun.. give it a try! Just take your time!
Chris V. - Thanks! In lieu of using the original colors that this pattern was designed for, I tried to use the 4 primary colors found in the “Realtree Xtra” hunting camo pattern. It works surprisingly well!
Thanks! And yeah, had a couple dudes voice concerns about that. Duracoat applies so thin, that it doesn’t exceed any tolerances. Zero fitment issues, and with proper prep, it won’t flake off and get into the action.
Awesome paint job bro, my one question is what do we do if we don't have an airbrush as I'm assuming a spray can will spray to much for the "outline" of the stencil
Sid .S - Thank you very much, Sir. And, excellent question. After doing a few rattle-can projects, I decided to invest in a quite basic kit to get the sharp detail that an airbrush provides. I believe there are some “fine-tip” spray-can nozzle attachments available. Which could technically work as well. However, I was going for a more durable finish, which Duracoating provides nicely. Try practicing your spray-can technique on something other than the rifle, if looks good, give it a shot! Try and think about mixing it up with different colors, too… Have fun!
Tellitallnow - great question..in simplest terms, the finish seems to improve with age, just like a fine wine. It repels water nicely, and gun oils / lubricants are no problem. In terms of torture testing, I’m pretty OCD with my firearms, so I try not to beat up on them too bad. However, if one were to put a Duracoated rifle to the test, by running it hard in the field, training hunting, etc., you may get some wear in the appropriate spots.. giving it a battle-worn appearance. Bonus 👍🏼 Duracoat has about 350 different colors. With a basic airbrushing kit, you can make a masterpiece out of a what would normally be a mundane looking firearm. Go for it!
Thanks for all efforts to video, showing the entire process and products used. Your enjoyment & pride in your work paid off big-time. Love the layers & detail. Just watched for the 3rd time. - Outstandingly Camouflaged!! ...(🤔is that an oxymoron?) Lol.
Paul De Joseph - Thanks, Paul! You can get the RIPTILE stencils right from the guy who designed it, James, at FREEDOMSTENCILS.COM . Also, a wide variety of Duracoat paints are stencil kits are available at LAUERCUSTOMWEAPONRY.COM . James’ original RIPTILE pattern had 4 specific colors, and they look great, but for this 300BLK build I tried to choose the most common colors found in the Realtree Xtra hunting camo pattern. (My deer hunting camo of choice). Take your time, and have fun! It’s awesome 😎
@@p99shooter thank you so much for the links. I might copy your paint job but change the design a little so not copy you too much lol. Great job I hope mine comes out that good. Oh how many coats did you do for the base coat and final coat?
Thanks! IKR! Magpul’s FDE is practically the perfect color alternative to black.. I knew I had to incorporate it somehow into this scheme. I tried my best to mimic the 4 primary colors found in the “Realtree Xtra” hunting Camo Pattern, my deer hunting camo of choice. It works really well together, imho
@@cliffthompson4149 - Hi, Cliff. That is VERY flattering, thanks.. I “was” looking into starting an LLC a few years ago to take online orders, but it’s such a niche art form that it didn’t initially look like I could take in enough orders to justify all the costs involved, FFL red-tape, shipping, etc. It’s pretty much just a hobby for me at this point. I’ve done a few projects for local friends, but if by some chance you’re ever in the Metro-Detroit area, I’d be happy to help you out!
@p99shooter thanks for responding. I live in South carolina, and we have a lot of copper head snakes. Deadly, but beautiful color patterns. Your cammo work looks much like those patterns. In autumn, you can't see these things at all until they move. I guess I'm just going to practice before I attempt to screw up my rifle 😂
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I was captivated by the music. Great job on the camouflage, truly!
@@sportopaul3482 - thanks!
I’ve seen a million of these camo paint AR vids ..... this one is probably the nicest one I’ve seen. Awesome job senior
USMC03-1408 - That is very humbling.. Thanks!! I’ve got a few more projects on deck, hope to post more very soon. More importantly.. Semper Fi, DevilDog! Thank you for your service 🇺🇸👍🏼
Thanks brother, Semper Fi.
I saw you, USMC--me3ig, trying to control the freedom of speech of a disabled Iraq War Veteran, jarhead. I have every right to speak out against my crooked cop father victim-blaming me for being raped while deployed to your bullshit war.
You are not fucking welcome for my service, "marine".
enjoy San Antonio, and the bullshit you thought you were "protecting".
Super clean best example I've seen. Yet
Thanks!
This is the first I've seen of these paint videos that is actually intelligently done and isn't just slopping paint mindlessly all over every part of the weapon all in 1 pass.
Thanks, Jeff!
Just a touch of OCD .. 😂 I like things “just so.” In terms of the AR, not everyone is as confident with a complete disassembly, and that’s ok I suppose... Rattle-can camo works, but isn’t going to cut it with me. In addition, I had a vision in mind for this AR, before I even started procuring parts to build it from the ground-up. Purpose-built for deer hunting, I tried to cherry pick the colors most commonly associated with my deer hunt camo of choice, Realtree Xtra. It works very well ..thanks again, for the kind comment 🙂👍🏼
Nice! Yeah I thought it was laziness but I guess you're right, probably 80% of people don't have the tools or know-how to break everything down. I like to know I'm not helpless in the event that there are no gunsmiths.
I'm 4 years late, just stumbled on this video. I'm so glad I did, you sir did an amazing job. BEAUTIFUL !!!
Thanks, Travis! I had a lot of fun with this project. The 4 different colors that I used are very similar to the colors found in the ‘Realtree Xtra’ hunting camo pattern. (My deer hunting camo of choice). It actually pairs up nicely, despite the ripped shapes.
Nice, im gonna try this on one of my cheaper ARs. Great video
Watched this video over a year ago when I first started learning to stencil and copied parts to do my first paid job. Just happened across it in my saved videos. Understand now what a detailed and outstanding job you did right there, kudos
Thanks, James! Much obliged!
This project was a personal favorite of mine. Took my time, enjoyed the process 🙂
3:54 I was really Happy, 6:38 I was really confused, at 8:50 I was amazed.
Definitely the sweetest one I've seen.... very nice! Making it all align from the mag well to the mag is just that massive extra attention to detail that 99% don't bother with.
Thanks! Just a touch of OCD 😂
I’m going to try my hand at this in hopes of some day achieving this level of mastery.
Fitting music by the way... birth of an angel
This is the sickest looking paint job I've seen on a stock. Awesome work
Thanks! I had a lot of fun with this project 😎
That was one of the most satisfying gun videos Ive ever watched. Great work.
Much obliged! One of the nicest comments I’ve ever received, thanks!
Beautiful job 👏👏👏
Thanks, Scott!
As one DuraCoater to another, my air brush cup cover is off to you, sir! Bravo!
THE WILD LIFE - An Outdoorsman's Blog - - Much obliged, my friend! More projects coming soon! The idea with the 300BLK was to break away from Montactical’s “Riptile” standard color scheme, and try to mimic and use the 4 primary colors found in the “Realtree Xtra” hunting-camo pattern. (My deer hunting pattern of choice) The 2 Magpul 10rd mags I did with this rifle utilize “-5” capacity-reduction plugs, which meet legal requirements for deer hunting in Michigan.
Very nice work man! Your attention to detail shows in the final outcome.🇺🇸👍
@@GoodisBest4u - Thank you!
A perfect paint job on an Anderson lower! Royal paint job on a pile of hot garbage rifle! You, Sir, are an awesome artist.
Haha! Thanks.. This particular Anderson Lower seemed actually very well made.. Runs like a Rolex, the tolerances and specs were spot on, and at Anderson’s Sub-$80 price point, it didn’t break my heart to paint it 🤘🏼😎
Happy Thanksgiving
Excellent break up pattern. I think the best I’ve seen.
Thanks! It pairs well with the colors found in the ‘Realtree Xtra’ pattern.
Best one I've seen hard work and customizing pays off
Much obliged, Jon… this one was very satisfying to do. Glad you enjoyed it!
Truly a work of art I will be trying to paint my to small hand guns with your technique just alot tinier
Ok... This is ....
..By far... the nicest, most relaxing video I have ever had the pleasure to watch.
Who ever you are, thank you. You are a master.
DeadisBetter - Thank you very much! This project was one of personal favorites. Built from the ground up, using my imagination. Purpose-built for deer season, (hence the two10rd mags, I use -5 limiters in them) I tried to use the 4 most common colors in the hunting camo pattern, Realtree Xtra. It’s a joy to shoot, and garners intrigue from other shooters at the range. Thanks again for the kind words! Consider subscribing, more projects lined up soon! 🇺🇸
Excellent job. This may be the best paint job ive ever seen.
02cents - Thanks! My deer hunting camo of choice is ‘Realtree Xtra’, so I tried going with the main colors found in that pattern.
Much love! This was an amazing paint job!
Thanks! Personal favorite of all of my projects!
Turned out beautiful.
Thanks! I had so much fun with this project
Very nice job
Tommy Roberts - Thanks!!
Wow bro. Impressive work. Sick paint job on the AR. Semper Fi.
gixxerrydder - Thank you so much!
It was a really fun experience, and it’s one of my personal favorites.
🇺🇸
Very nice I liked the Dura coat and airbrush great video thanks
Clarence Main Jk - thanks! And thanks for subbing👍🏼 More projects coming soon!
Well done! Really nice look!👍👊
Thanks!
This is hands down the most amazing job I've seen! Absolute Maestro with the detail!🤙🏼
Thanks, Reaper! 🫡
This project was a personal favorite of mine 🤘🏼
One of the best paint job have ever see. 👍
L M - Thank you very much!
Wow this is fantastic. What an awesome video!
@Matthew Tomlinson - Thanks, Matthew! You’re too kind..👍🏼
This project was one of my personal favs 😎
I really liked the upside down dust cover
Dancing Panda - Thanks! That was custom made by LEOARMORY.com. Had to specify the upside-down printing for a Lefty-AR.
@@p99shooter that's what I was noticing about your rifle. It's for a lefty. No wonder it looked odd at first when I seen the thumbnail.
Looks fantastic.
@barry parks - Thanks! I had a lot of fun with this project. It’s a joy to shoot.. purpose-built for deer hunting. Hence, the two 10rd magpul mags. I run “-5 limiters” in them to make them compliant for Michigan deer season.
Awesome job thanks for sharing
Thanks!
Ill second that comment!... ive watched a bunch of videos and this is the best one ive seen! Hats off to you my friend... well done and thank you.
Wayne Wilson - Thanks, Wayne! Much appreciated! And..I’ll be uploading a brand new one today.. 🇺🇸
I just went to the stor and gonna try a low cost one..lol
Very nice job. What camo pattern is that? I'm sorry if it's been answered
Much obliged… The camo pattern, and stencil pattern, is called “Riptile.” It was designed by James from Montactical, and he sells this stencil pack, among others, at freedomstencils.com. His original design called for different colors, tailored more for the desert. I tried to cherry pick the four main colors found in the Realtree Xtra pattern, my hunting camo of choice. So, I called this pattern: “Woodland Riptile.”
Amazing work
Thanks! I had a lot of fun with this project. 😎
I appreciate the fast response. Are you going to put out any more videos on Duracoating. I watched all your other videos and I enjoyed watching you master the art. I just started Duracoating back in June. I’ve done magazines, tumblers and ammo boxes. Now it’s time to do a rifle.
Thanks, Jeff! I will definitely put out more content as soon as I can. I had a few projects outlined for last summer & fall, but I caught the wu-flu and it nearly killed me. I’ve also been considering an overhaul of this channel, including a name-change. Not doing this commercially yet, just as a hobby these days.. good to hear you’re Duracoating.. it’s a fun way of personalizing your stuff! Have a great day!
Props. That thing is beautiful!
Jason Byrd - Thanks, Jason!
This is AWESOME. thanks for this im gonna use this technique on my model tanks and planes.
Interesting! Glad you enjoyed 🙂
One of the best so far, great job!!
Jayson Morales - Thanks, Jayson!
This is a beautiful job, I like how you matched it with the magazines to look as one continuous peice, outstanding! I've never actually seen a left handed rifle
@Joey Zee - Thanks, Joey! Lefty AR15s aren’t technically “necessary,” but if you shoot from the left shoulder, it makes the experience MUCH more pleasant... and slightly safer, as well. (The ejected brass doesn’t pass in front of your face).
The only two components that make it a truly “Lefty AR” would be the upper receiver (with the ejection port & forward assist), and the Bolt Carrier Group.
An ambidextrous safety switch and charging handle (which I prefer) is really all a left-handed shooter would require on a “Standard” AR15, and you’d be good to go.
@@p99shooter your video gave me inspiration for the paint on mine, not nearly as good as yours but I really like mine, I did white, navy, and blue and black. But yours is definitely one of the nices ones I've ever seen
@Joey Zee - That’s awesome! Interesting colors! I’ll bet it looks great..
😎👍🏼 .. and thanks for subbing!
Beautiful paint job!...awesome production!
Starman57 - Thank you!
Best I’ve seen so far excellent job I’m using this cheers bro *YOINK*
Thanks! I had a lot of fun with this project. I was very pleased with the results, also!
Nice job. Awesome. 👍👍👍👍👍
Wow! That looks amazing, very well done 👍
Adam Bean -Thanks, Adam!
Outstanding job, this is exactly what I was wanting to do on my creedmore and this validates that concept. Well done video!
Daniel Hosier - Thanks, Daniel! James from Montactical designed the Riptile pattern with a specific set of colors in mind. But his colors mimic more of an arid desert climate (Nevada). I did do a Rifle in those Riptile colors, (video of it on my channel) and it looks sweet. For this 300BLK, I tried to choose 4 of the primary colors found in the “Realtree Xtra” Camo pattern, which mimics the climate in N Michigan where I hunt Whitetail. (The two Magpul 10-rd Mags that I painted use “-5 rd plugs” to make them ‘hunt-legal’ in Michigan)
That turned out amazing.
Jonathan Clodfelter - Thanks!
That came out sooo sweet
Thanks, Brian!
@@p99shooter my friend painted one of my guns, but he’s going paint another one and I’m going to have to copy this gun. Lol looks sooo nice
Ever since I seen Montactical do that Riptile and you doing this I am going to dive in and do this to my fightlight Raider scr. There are so many black guns out there. Its nice to see some detailed artwork others appreciate. Kudos to you fine work.
Warlord2029 - Thanks! For my very 1st attempt at Duracoating a rifle, I just did a single color of Sunrise Bronze using the disposable, Preval, “Shake-N-Spray” kit. It worked very well, but I wanted to try doing more detailed designs that could only be achieved via airbrushing. I invested a whopping $60 for a complete airbrush/ compressor kit off of Amazon. It works great! Go for it! Just take it slow, take your time, let the diff coats cure, and keep the airbrush super clean between coats..
5 years old still one of the best jobs I've seen. Any one have ideas for the mini air sprayer that doesn't require an air compressor?
That’s very kind of you…
…Much obliged, Sir!
My first couple of projects, including this 300BLK, were simply done with a basic, $60 airbrushing combo kit off of Amazon. It’s best used for very small hobby projects, or for cake makers. Excessive run times would continuously empty the smallish tank, and subsequently, the motor would run hot due to the constant re-filling. Additionally, that would also add moisture into the lines, and create a whole new set of problems. I now run a Dewalt pancake style compressor with the 6lb tank. SO much better.
One can always do creative things without an airbrush. The biggest advantage is having more control over fine detail.
@@p99shooter Thanks P99 I’ll look around.
That looks sick!!!!
Thank you very much!
Fantastic job! I'm glad I came across this video because that is kind of the vision I've had except opposite on colours with more tan and brown under and green on top. I've seen guys use netting and stuff but that reptile stencil is nice. Again sir...GREAT WORK!
Mike - Thanks! The mesh that I used came with a Riptile Kit:
www.freedomstencils.com/products/riptile-camouflage-stencil-kit
You can get a similar mesh pattern by buying a cheap 2-pack of those collapsible laundry bags at Walmart, and cutting a large swatch to use!
@@p99shooter do you have to bake duracoat?
Mike - nope, baking not required.. Ceracoat requires baking. With Duracoat, patience is KEY. I find that for best results, when doing multiple layers, is to wait no less than 24 hours for cure time in between coats. Cure time can be sped up a bit by baking painted parts at 200°F for 20 mins, though. As time goes on.. weeks, months, and even years, the finish gets tougher and more durable with age..just like a fine wine
@@p99shooter ok thanks. I was gonna rattle can it but don't want it to wear off shortly. It's going on to be on my bolt action .308 so we'll see. Thanks again.
Another two questions, sorry. How long do you wait before pulling off the vinyl stickers? Just the same 24 hours? And do you spray a clear coat of some kind on top? Thanks again.
Awesome job...
Thanks, Tommy! This project was a personal favorite of mine.
Awesome Job Friend!
Love it!
@ BigSil48 - Thanks! I was happy with the results 😎👍🏼
It totally, hands down, without equivocation pays to have talent and artistic capabilities!! LOL awesome job brother!!!
Thanks!! 😎🇺🇸
Excellent way to shoot/edit this. Well done
bass779 - much appreciated! Thanks!
p99shooter Probably the coolest/best execution of a paint job I've ever seen. I can't believe you take it to the field! This belongs in an art gallery
bass779 - You’re too kind! It’s sort of cliche’, but Duracoat is just like a fine wine. When applied “correctly,” the coating will get better, and stronger, with age. Opening day of Michigan 2017 deer season was very rainy, but the finish repelled the water nicely..
This is absolutely badass
Slinkman2021 - Thank you! Building & painting an AR from the ground up is fun and a great experience. I think it’s an interesting paint scheme. I tried to use colors commonly found in my State’s foliage.
@@p99shooter I am really wanting to do a riptile paint job on my Aero 5.56. I’m wanting to be a base color of flat dark earth, and do a bronze color rattle snake skin mesh, then do a dark brown final coat over, and have the snake skin come through the stripes.
Slinkman2021 - That would look really slick.. good vision👍🏼 Consider going with Bronze on your small parts, too. Bolt catch paddle, safety paddles, trigger, etc. (Taping off what ain’t visible on those parts, of course.) It’d make the Bronze snakeskin pattern really pop. 🐍😈
@@p99shooter Yeah I think so as well, I'm pretty stoked about the idea. I didn't really even think about the small parts, good call. I'm definitely going to do that. It will be my first paint job so I'm not sure how clean it will turn out but I'm sure that I'll get it.
So bad ass! Is there anything I should know before I potentially ruin my airbrush?
What stencil kit is that?
Ha! Thanks! There’s no way you can ruin any of your airbrushes!
Now, you ARE mixing an epoxy hardener at a 12:1 ratio into your paint, but as long as you take your brush apart and clean it promptly, the paint won’t have a chance to harden up and seize up the internal components of your airbrush. I keep plenty of Duracoat “reducer“ on hand, (works like a paint thinner), and cleans up everything nicely.
The stencil kit is called “Riptile,” can be obtained at freedomstencils.com
Awesome very nice , similar to what I want. What kind of air gun and compressor set up did you use and psi ?
Thanks for the questions, L L!
For airbrushes, I usually run ‘PointZero’ brand..gravity-feed for fine detail, or siphon-feed for larger surface areas.
The compressor’s PSI can vary, but somewhere in the 35-50psi range is usually sufficient.
I was initially just using a basic, 1/5 HP little air compressor.
(the air brushes came with it as part of a kit.)
Damn thing was more appropriate for a baker painting cakes.😂
I have since upgraded my compressor to a Dewalt, pancake style. The problem with those small tanks, is that they empty too quickly during the project, so the motor is constantly running to refill the tank during the job. Hence, it gets really hot, and then starts spitting moisture out the nozzle. Which is no damn good.
Probably wouldn’t hurt for me to do a quick video on my setup/equipment. Thanks again!
@p99shooter thank you so much for the response. I'm gonna subscribe and hopefully when you get the time to make a video of that I'll check it out. I wanna get started in it but not sure how to set it up.
outstanding job!
HBeretta - Thanks!
Wow! Amazing work! You should take orders!
TheSmoov82 - Much appreciated, Sir!
I’d like more information on the build please. I lost my right index finger to a table saw, so now I have to learn to shoot left handed.
So sorry to hear that Kirk.
I would be MORE than happy to transfer any knowledge I have about lefty-AR builds for you.
I haven’t put out any content for a while, as I’ve had distractions.
But you’ve just given me inspiration for a video.
Amazing...what is the stencil material?
@@richarde5718 - thanks, Richard! It’s made of a heat resistant vinyl, very forgiving for the peeling process.. you can use any type of mesh for the mesh pattern, but I think they include a mesh pattern with the kit now. You can obtain the kit here: www.freedomstencils.com/products/riptile-camouflage-stencil-kit
I love this paint job and would love it on my ar! Awesome work!!
Adam shinny77 - Thanks, Adam! I had so much fun doing it..thanks for subbing, too..😉 I’ve got a few more projects on deck.. stay tuned!
Nice to see another lefty shooter! There aren’t many of us. 😉👍🏻 Would you mind sharing your build, as I would love a left-handed AR for my own!
Thanks! Though right-handed, I’ve always enjoyed shooting long guns from the left shoulder due to my being cross-eyed-dominant. Lefty ARs just made sense to me. I still shoot pistol from the right hand.
I’m not sure of the availability right now, but if you are still looking for a pre-made lefty AR, I highly recommend checking out Stag Arms. Great rifles.
Wow what a beauty, Im going to do mine like that but with just the desert tan dark earth and a little black
Thanks! And those colors that you picked for your project should look cool 😎👍🏼
Nice work, sir which colour are you using for spraying? Will you please tell me about the colour brand and name?
Thank you. The paint is made by Duracoat. Before spraying, you mix Duracoat’s clear, epoxy hardener into the paint at a 12:1 ratio. When it dries, and cures, you get a very durable finish which helps protect your project from water, oils, solvents and natural wear and tear.
The Duracoat colors I used for this project are:
#79 Magpul Flat Dark Earth
#T8 Tactical Woodland Green
#T9 Tactical Woodland Brown
#4 Matte Black
Gorgeous work brother. What 3 colours might you suggest to get a tan-ish type pattern. Thank you
@Plaidcladcanuck - Thanks! If you were to check out the other Lefty Riptile AR I did on my channel, take note of the colors I used. They came part of a kit, and were pre-determined by the pattern’s designer. Works well in the Southwest US, but for this 300BLK, I went with colors found in my state of Michigan. If you were to go with all “tan-ish” colors, in order to help this particular pattern stand out a bit, I would recommend going with vastly varying shades of colors in the “Dark Earth” category. See the attached link below..
I believe there are approximately 17 colors in the FDE palate of colors, not to mention their “tactical” line of colors. Don’t forget a little Matte Black to make the pattern pop!
www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/duracoat-standard-colors-earths-p/dcdarkearths-liquids.htm
Ok I finally have all my parts and paint. I forgot to buy the harderner. The stencils just came in today. How many coats of each paint?
Paul De Joseph - Cool! Have fun! That’s unfortunate about the hardener.. I wanna say that the last few times I’ve bought Duracoat paints online, small hardener bottles were included...
Also, gotta have plenty of Reducer on hand for airbrush cleanup and whatnot. In terms of multiple coats? Shouldn’t need multiple coats for Riptile, because in a sense, this pattern already has 2-3 layers to it.. just make sure your base coat has thorough coverage.
I’ve got a video coming soon demonstrating a distressing technique.. 😎👍🏼
@@p99shooter lol have plenty of reducer. Bought that by accident is stead of hardener. In was going to email them in a minute to see if any gardener will do buddy is a auto painter. I do have the little ones that came with the paint. Do I have to media blast my stuff or will brake clean and acetone work? I can't wait I hope it come out as good as yours. Can't wait for the next video. Subscribing to you now. Thanks for the help and advice
Brake Clean/ Acetone, or Duracoat’s Tru-Strip aerosol.. any of which is fine, and definitely required for degreasing. (Duracoat won’t adhere well to any oily spots).. Degrease 1st, then rough up the surface 2nd (to aid adhesion).. Media Blasting can ALWAYS give you the most consistently roughed-up surface, but in my very first attempt at Duracoating an AR15, I only used a 3M Scotch-Brite pad for roughing up the surface, and it still looked GREAT. (My Sunrise Bronze AR, the subject of my next vid..). Duracoat usually applies very thin, so deep scratches and imperfections can still show through sometimes, so rough your surface as evenly as possible, if that makes sense... 🇺🇸😎👍🏼
@@p99shooter I got the scotch brite pads. I'll order the duracoat true strip along with some more harderner. Again thanks for everything
JUST WONDERING WHAT PSI WHERE YOU RUNNING THE COMPRESSOR AT? I HAD ONE OF THOSE LITTLE COMPRESSORS FOR MY PROJECT AND IT DIDN'T WORK OUT SO WELL.
Dan C. - Sorry you had some issues.. I was just using a small, 1/5HP style compressor. It seems to max out at 60psi. Because of it’s smallish tank, it kicks on often, and refills as you go. What kind of issue did you have? Duracoat inventors, Lauer Custom Weaponry, have a help-line for painting questions.. I’ve utilized it myself..
when i first started it seemed to work fine about 5 min into the project it just stopped spraying tried to clean it that didn't work. i couldn't get my compressor up that high on the psi. maybe around 30psi. it was a master airbrush compressor. any suggestions would be appreciated. i figured i would try one of those pancake ones from lowes that i can go up that hi on.
So how does that duracoat hold up on the suppressor after a hundred or so rounds?
Hi, Edward- great question..Actually, the muzzle device on this project is not a suppressor, but is actually a linear compensator made by Aluma-Lite. The Duracoat holds up just fine on this rifle. For extreme heat protection, as on suppressors, Duracoat makes a paint that is extremely tolerant to heat called “Dura-heat.” Haven’t used it, but I’m told it works well.
Beautiful work. What pressure are you running through your airbrush.
Thanks, Jeff! I recently got a DeWalt pancake-style compressor, and I’ve been keeping the output set btwn 40-50 psi. It seems to be a good amount for Duracoat work.
Clean. Where did you get the number stencils?
@@Ruby_Sterling - Thank You!
The number stencils for the “111” were just from a basic stencil pack from a Joann’s Fabric shop. The Riptile stencils are from FreedomStencils.com
@@p99shooterthanks!
I prefer Cerakote but that was a very well done video and a fantastic finished product. You certainly earned the right to be proud of a job well done.
Wouldn’t matte clear help protect the finish? Can you spray it if needed
Vahan Gabriyelyan - Great question. Clear coating will always add that extra layer of protection for the finished product, but it’s completely optional. Duracoat is already resistant enough to repel water and minor handling. With hard use, your firearm can “wear” in the high-traffic spots, adding character to it’s finish. 😎👍🏼
How long did you let it cure before you removed the stencils - the full month?
Good to go after 24-48 hrs for peeling stencils 👍🏼
Are you using the Magpul MOE or the MOE plus pistol grip?
On this 300BLK, it is the plastic MOE, because the paint will adhere to it. However, I DO have the “rubberized” MOE+ on my Bronze Stag-152L. HIGHLY recommend the MOE+. Very comfortable!
Well done, Very nice.
Trays7940 - Thanks!
What kind of air brush are you using to spray? What is the PSI your running it at?
Thanks for the questions!
For airbrushes, I usually run ‘PointZero’ brand..gravity-feed for fine detail, or siphon-feed for larger surface areas.
My PSI can vary, but somewhere in the 35-50psi range is usually sufficient.
@@p99shooter Thanks for the answers. What size tip do you use? Needless to say your videos makes me really want to do my own painting. There's a shop out here that charges $385 for camo pattern that dont look nearly as nice as what you did in this video.
@@UnfundedLiability - PointZero Dual-Action 7cc Gravity-Feed Airbrush 3 Tip Set (.2mm .3mm .5mm) www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNHGG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1ZG5Y83WKZETW9XZYJGQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@UnfundedLiability - That’s very flattering! You should totally DIY. It’s really fun, and it’s great art therapy. I’ve been meaning to do a video on my set up, this might inspire me
Great video, awesome job. Did you media blast the scope, if so what grit was used so it won’t get damaged
Thanks, Jeff! I did media blast the scope. I used the same media for all the parts, 120grit Aluminum Oxide... I just made sure to surgically tape off both lenses, the rubberized magnification dial, and the windage/elevation dials. I used masking tape, then gorilla tape on top of that, as it is more robust. There were still a few granules that found their way into the magnification dial, as it felt a little gritty when turning it. But eventually I was able to use compressed air to get them out.
What kind of media are you blasting the parts with? I was going to get some walnut shell but thought I'd ask first.
Hi, Jacob.. Duracoat recommends prepping surfaces with 60-120 grit Aluminum Oxide media. Blasted at approx 60-80psi
@@p99shooter Thanks going to start off with krypek on an AK.
gran bel lavoro! stupendo direi,complimenti
ERMES Zago - La ringrazio molto, Signore!
How long do you let it dry before removing the stencils ?
Hey, QBERT ~ I find that waiting 24 hrs gives the best results.
Pro tip: if you have any “gummy residue” left behind after ALL of your stencils have been peeled, a small amount of orange Goo-B-Gone on a paper towel wipes it away nicely. It won’t remove the new Duracoat paint.
@@p99shooter Thanks!
Never in my life has spray paint gotten me this hard
Comment of the year 🏆 😂
Gonna do this but with rattle cans. Won't be as clean but it'll still be cool and a better fit to my budget.
That’s awesome, thanks! 😎
Great job...
Was wondering if I could get into contact with you about inquiry on duracoat project. Thank You...
Excellent work sir! I'll probably do my first duracoat pattern with stencils soon. Your time and efforts paid off on this one. Well done!
WhenPigsDie - Thanks! Used it for deer season this year. It was a joy. The two 10-rd Magpul mags I painted on this project have “-5” round limiters in them to make them hunt-legal in Michigan.
Do you sell the mesh or know where I can get it? You did an amazing job the best I've seen.
Thanks, Corey! Much appreciated.. This project was one of my personal favs.. The “Riptile Mesh” that I used came included with the Riptile Stencil pack from FreedomStencils.com
However, you can always improvise a mesh pattern, as well. Good alternatives would be to pick up a cheap mesh laundry bag from Walmart or the dollar store, or even use a piece of mesh from a produce bag of oranges or pears. I’ve even seen Halloween cobweb doilies from the Halloween stores used.. You only need a swatch of fabric approximately the size of a standard envelope, so the possibilities are endless! Good luck!
@@p99shooter thank you very much for responding sir this is a great help.
What gas block did you use???
Brandon Clark - Brandon Clark - Hi, great question.. It was a pretty basic, non-adjustable, Low Profile Gas Block. It was one I just happened to have on hand for this build. I believe it was made by CMMG, or Yankee Hill. However, after scouring the internet, I can’t seem to find this “exact” model available for sale anywhere. I can tell you that I would’ve bought it from either Brownell’s or MidwayUSA. The market is SO saturated with AR parts these days, I wouldn’t be surprised if this model was discontinued. I can, however, tell you that it rides on a 16” CMMG barrel (mid-length), with a Spikes Tactical Melonited mid-length gas tube. Flawless functionality so far. 👍🏼
THANKS! I am wanting to build and 300 blackout so I trying to get a parts list of things that are proven to work well together. I have just mixed things about the 300 blackout. Awesome looking guns that you build!!
Brandon Clark - NICE! Have fun with your build! Thanks for the sub, too.. I have a few more projects on deck!
Where did you get the stencil that was that long? From Montactical?
Jay Lawrence - Hello.. Great question.. Yes, indeed.. at the time I bought them, the stencils came in one long roll.. with a small swatch of mesh.. Their website now looks like they sell them in separate sheets.
www.freedomstencils.com/products/riptile-camouflage-stencil-kit
Great job,
Where can I get those sticker stencils?
Thanks! Pattern: RIPTILE
freedomstencils.com
where did you get the stencil sheet?
Freedomstencils.com
That's nice where did you buy the paint and can you use any airbrush?
Thanks.. I ordered all of my Duracoat paints through Lauer Custom Weaponry. Numerous online retailers sell them, though.
www.lauerweaponry.com
The airbrush kit I used is available on Amazon as a complete kit for about $60-$70. Everything you need to DIY. It came with a decent small air compressor, hoses, and 2 brushes made by PointZero. A siphon-feed (glass bottle on the bottom) and the gravity-feed (cup on top). The latter being best for sharp-shooting fine lines and detail work. The hardener that you mix into the Duracoat paint can gunk up the airbrush’s needle-tips. Just keep them clean as you go, and in between different colors or coats. It’s a helluva lot of fun.. give it a try! Just take your time!
nice pattern and looks great.....not sure how effective though
Chris V. - Thanks! In lieu of using the original colors that this pattern was designed for, I tried to use the 4 primary colors found in the “Realtree Xtra” hunting camo pattern. It works surprisingly well!
Very good job. Definitely wouldn’t have painted the entire mag though.
Thanks! And yeah, had a couple dudes voice concerns about that. Duracoat applies so thin, that it doesn’t exceed any tolerances. Zero fitment issues, and with proper prep, it won’t flake off and get into the action.
Awesome paint job bro, my one question is what do we do if we don't have an airbrush as I'm assuming a spray can will spray to much for the "outline" of the stencil
Sid .S - Thank you very much, Sir. And, excellent question. After doing a few rattle-can projects, I decided to invest in a quite basic kit to get the sharp detail that an airbrush provides. I believe there are some “fine-tip” spray-can nozzle attachments available. Which could technically work as well. However, I was going for a more durable finish, which Duracoating provides nicely. Try practicing your spray-can technique on something other than the rifle, if looks good, give it a shot! Try and think about mixing it up with different colors, too… Have fun!
How does the dura coat hold up? Anyone ever put it to the torture test?
Tellitallnow - great question..in simplest terms, the finish seems to improve with age, just like a fine wine. It repels water nicely, and gun oils / lubricants are no problem. In terms of torture testing, I’m pretty OCD with my firearms, so I try not to beat up on them too bad. However, if one were to put a Duracoated rifle to the test, by running it hard in the field, training hunting, etc., you may get some wear in the appropriate spots.. giving it a battle-worn appearance.
Bonus 👍🏼
Duracoat has about 350 different colors. With a basic airbrushing kit, you can make a masterpiece out of a what would normally be a mundane looking firearm. Go for it!
Thanks!!!! Will be purchasing the kit very soon!!
Thanks for all efforts to video, showing the entire process and products used. Your enjoyment & pride in your work paid off big-time. Love the layers & detail. Just watched for the 3rd time. - Outstandingly Camouflaged!! ...(🤔is that an oxymoron?) Lol.
Thanks! It’s one if my favorite projects!
I have been looking at paint jobs this whole week. By far this my favorite. Where did you buy the paint from and stencils?
Paul De Joseph - Thanks, Paul! You can get the RIPTILE stencils right from the guy who designed it, James, at FREEDOMSTENCILS.COM . Also, a wide variety of Duracoat paints are stencil kits are available at LAUERCUSTOMWEAPONRY.COM . James’ original RIPTILE pattern had 4 specific colors, and they look great, but for this 300BLK build I tried to choose the most common colors found in the Realtree Xtra hunting camo pattern. (My deer hunting camo of choice). Take your time, and have fun! It’s awesome 😎
@@p99shooter thank you so much for the links. I might copy your paint job but change the design a little so not copy you too much lol. Great job I hope mine comes out that good. Oh how many coats did you do for the base coat and final coat?
Ngl, I would have been tempted to just stop with the FDE. it looks so good.
Thanks! IKR! Magpul’s FDE is practically the perfect color alternative to black.. I knew I had to incorporate it somehow into this scheme. I tried my best to mimic the 4 primary colors found in the “Realtree Xtra” hunting Camo Pattern, my deer hunting camo of choice. It works really well together, imho
@@p99shooter u agree. It's cool looking and actually an effective camo
It's 2024 now. Are you still doing this art? I was asking because I was wondering if you could do custom work like this for others?
@@cliffthompson4149 - Hi, Cliff.
That is VERY flattering, thanks..
I “was” looking into starting an LLC a few years ago to take online orders, but it’s such a niche art form that it didn’t initially look like I could take in enough orders to justify all the costs involved, FFL red-tape, shipping, etc.
It’s pretty much just a hobby for me at this point. I’ve done a few projects for local friends, but if by some chance you’re ever in the Metro-Detroit area, I’d be happy to help you out!
@p99shooter thanks for responding. I live in South carolina, and we have a lot of copper head snakes. Deadly, but beautiful color patterns. Your cammo work looks much like those patterns. In autumn, you can't see these things at all until they move. I guess I'm just going to practice before I attempt to screw up my rifle 😂