Dont ask - Thanks! I did two other rifles (just one color) with the Preval Shake-n-spray kit, but this was my very first attempt at airbrushing. It was easier than I thought it’d be! Thanks again!
@@p99shooter thanks bro !!!!!! You rules !!!!!!!!!! Marvellous Amazing paint job !!!!!! It's so realistic effect !!!!!! Really you are a genious !!!!!! Congratulations !!!!!!!
make shift - Thanks! The finish is holding up VERY well, too. I just took it up to the range again yesterday, and always get compliments..and per usual, what usually draws attention 1st.. is the Diamondhead T-Brake Compensator.. It puts on a real fireworks show.. 💥✨💥✨💥 ..haha
Thanks!!! I had so much fun with this project. The finish is holding up remarkably well. Also, I have a different optic on it now. Vortex OPMOD Strikefire II, in FDE. Fantastic optic. I appreciate the comment! 👊🏼😎
Definitely one of the best videos on painting a firearm I’ve seen. Firearm is apart, prepared for paint. Then it’s airbrushed not rattle canned. Very professional. I have a couple ARs I am interested in doing. Thanks for the awesome video.
Clarence Main Jk - Thank you, Sir! Believe it or not, this was my very first attempt at using an airbrush. Just a $60 kit I ordered off of Amazon. For the first rifle I ever did, I used the “one-and-done” Preval sprayer. One color only... I knew if I wanted to do any detailed work, I was going to have to make the leap into airbrushing. Thanks for the compliment! More projects coming soon!
@ Rick Oshe'a - Thank you so much! This actually was my first “from the ground up” build, and it was also my first attempt at airbrushing. It was a great experience. I may actually do a follow-up video on her soon, as I’ve been running a different red dot on her, and to show how much the finish has improved with time. Thanks, again!
THATS A VERY VERY NICE JOB MAN!! Ive just done solid colors. Recently took a leap to stencils of digital camo with od, fde, and blk. turned out nice. Now doin a snow multi cam. should be nice. People need to try this project. Its really not to hard
Mike Stremlin - Thanks! Much appreciated👍🏼 .. I too, enjoy the process. I think it’s a great way to personalize your firearm, and a fun exercise in creativity. I’ve got more projects coming soon!
You're the first painter on RUclips I've subscribed to. Watched a couple of your videos and love what I'm seeing so far and gives me ideas so thank you for that. And plus, the music is awesome. I'll actually throw on some HZ/Meditation music when I go to sleep so I really enjoys watching your videos. Keep it up man
WingChunWilly - Thank you so much! I really appreciate the kind words 👍🏼 Good timing on subbing, too..thanks! I literally just finished a brand new Duracoat project today. It is one of the most ambitious projects I’ve ever done, and I think it turned out incredible. I’ll be posting it within the next few days .. clue:🦆
literally felt like therapy with the music, satisfying to watch. You did a gorgeous job on that gun that is such a sick idea man keep up the good work!
Patrick O'Neil - I truly appreciate the kind words. I am truly humbled 😌. Thank you so much. 😎👍🏼 It was only my 2nd time working with Duracoat, but my 1st attempt at airbrushing. Almost 3 years later, the finish has only improved. Come to think of it, I believe you’ve inspired me to do an “update” video on this one.. thanks!
Thanks! It was my first attempt at airbrushing, and was a great learning experience.. only thing I’ve changed to it now is I have a StrikeFire II up top, in lieu of the Trijicon
B Well - Thanks! Believe it or not, this was my first attempt at airbrushing. It was just a basic kit off of Amazon. It was a lot of fun! Thanks for checking it out, and for the compliment 😎👍🏼
brad swan - Thanks, Brad! I really appreciate the comment.. It’s a joy to shoot. One of my personal favs.. It’s almost 2yrs old, and the finish is still improving as it ages.
I saw that pattern done by Montactical and really liked it. I liked it SO much that I did a shotgun in that pattern. I used 4 colors instead of 3, but only because I had them on hand. I'm a cheapskate, so I cut my camo patterns out of Frog Tape. It worked just fine (no color bleeding). I get complements on it all of the time. I recommend they hit up the Montactical channel and try some of his schemes out. Yours came out really good. Good job!
Kentucky Justice - Thanks!! And yes, FrogTape would work nicely. I played around with some different colors for my 300BLK. I made a video for that one, too. I primarily wear Realtree Xtra camo during deer season, and tried to use the primary colors found in that pattern.
Great job! I hope to paint mine in the same pattern but with a snow camo scheme. Did you bake between layers of paint? If not, how much air dry time did you allow between coats? Thanks!
Bill Amidon - Thanks, Bill! A Riptile snow scheme would look AWESOME. The colors used on this rifle were from a kit, (Montactical’s original color scheme). I did play around with different colors (woodland-style) for a 300BLK build. (In another video on my channel). In terms of “time between coats,” you should wait about an hour between coats of the same color. When switching to a whole new color in the process, letting the colors cure overnight is best. I didn’t bake between layers, but if waiting overnight isn’t an option, you can speed up “cure time” by baking parts at 200°F for 20 mins, and let them cool down to room temp before proceeding.
p99shooter Thanks! Thats all I needed to know. I'll put the parts under warm halogen work lights over night between coats and bake when all coats have been applied. Thanks again.
Pete Bentley - Thanks, Pete! The Brake and Handguard (as well as the backup sights) are all made by Diamondhead. (Product names are in he description) I think their slanted angles compliment each other beautifully. The Handguard is very comfortable for the off-hand, and the Brake mitigates recoil wonderfully. Diamondhead makes several different lengths for that handguard, and on a pistol-length barrel, the lateral fireballs from this Brake would be impressive.. 🔥😎🔥
Wow. I’ve never had a problem with any of my airbrush parts “melting.” Now, you should be mixing the Epoxy Hardener into your paint at a 12:1 ratio. If you are mixing too much hardener into your paint, and don’t clean the sprayer after every session with Duracoat Reducer/ Thinner after you are done painting, the airbrush parts can and will “Sieze up.” When you are done wiping all the parts off with Duracoat Reducer during cleanup, you just need to make sure you wipe off any excess reducer (especially on plastic parts) with a dry cloth when you are done.
Awesome job. I see you're using 2 kinds of airbrush pens or is that the same one. If so what airbrush pen would you recommend? I want to try it on my son's S&W M&P 1522 to see how it comes out before I try it on my AR.
+Vladimir Parra -Thanks! They are both made by PointZero. The siphon feed, with the bottle below, will hold more paint. So it worked well for full layers. For sharpshooting, thin lines and whatnot, the gravity feed (with the cup on top) worked very well. It offers the best control. The hardener, when mixed into the Duracoat, can gum up the tips. Keeping 'em clean along the way really helps. Good luck, have fun!!
Very Nice! This video inspired me to do a paint job. Looks like you used FDE for the 3rd coat. I am getting ready for my first one. Looks like your 1st coat is arctic shadow? I am guessing. What are the first two coats? I would be really grateful if you could share that. I am really loving that paint job.
Thanks, Fred! The base coat I used was Desert Beige. Then sprayed Snow Gray through the mesh to get the scale effect. You don't have to use the same colors, you can mix it up, too!
If applied properly, Duracoat is just as durable as Cerakote, imo.. “Cure time” is the big difference. Duracoat cures via air-drying, and Cerakote cures via baking the painted parts.
+Ye Olde Pirate - Thanks, Pirate! And yes, my workbench is WAY too tidy.. haha.. My late Father always stressed to me the importance of maintaining a tidy, organized and well-appointed workbench.. 😎👍🏼
Absolutely.. The chosen paint colors in this particular project were included as part of a complete kit by the Riptile Pattern’s creator, James from Montactical. For my next Riptile Camo project, I painted my 300BLK using woodland-style colors more appropriate to the topography of my home state. The great thing about this pattern is being able to play around with the colors to make it your own! And yes, I’ve encountered a rattler in the field. It can be unsettling to the uninitiated. 🐍
+Clyde Wurster - Thanks, Clyde! Absolutely.. for surface prep, you CAN rough up the surfaces with a scotch-brite pad, but media-blasting your parts will give you a MUCH more consistent finish and help the Duracoat adhere better. The colors that I used were pre-selected as part of a Riptile kit, but don't be afraid to choose your OWN colors from Lauer Custom Weaponry that are appropriate for your environment. (About 250 to choose from!) I just posted a video on my channel of my 300 BLK AR15 that I will be using for Michigan Deer Season. I used "Woodland" colors for it, (brown, fde, green, etc.) I did these projects with a $60 Airbrushing kit that I bought off of Amazon. Lastly... Take your time, and don't rush it! An hour between coats is enough, but overnight is MUCH better for cure time. Also, you may get some "tacky" spots from where you peel the stencils. Gently wipe these spots off with some orange "Goo-B-Gone" on a soft cloth. Takes it right off, without removing the paint.. good luck! Let me know how yours turned out!
I sure do appreciate that, Andrew. I currently have to remain being just a how-to guy for now. Too much red tape with AFT (at this time) to be able to take orders via shipping and whatnot. I’m humbled, though.. thanks again!
+Jason Lewis - Thanks! The finish is extremely durable. Water and oils are repelled nicely. I use either Hoppes #9 or CLP for cleaning, and neither of them have had any negative effect on the finish. The only wear in the finish so far, and it is very minor, is from the ejected brass casings hitting the triangular "deflector block" on the upper receiver. But that happens no matter what kind of finish you have on the upper.
Thanks, Jeff! The handguard is a Diamondhead, VRS-T, free-float handguard (13.5”). Muzzle brake & flip-up sights also made by Diamondhead.. Full Parts list in video description 😎👍🏼
@Rodrigo Castro - Interesting idea! Ironically, I have an old Telecaster I’ve been considering painting this very pattern.. If I do it, I’ll post it here!
PrometheusDigitaI - That’s great! Good luck! Believe it or not, to maximize space on my bench, this is just a basic, clamp-on vice from Harbor Freight. $20.00. For “basic” firearm repair or builds, it is more than adequate. If I need a more “robust” vice, I’ve got one Bolted on another heavy bench out in the garage. www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-inch-table-swivel-vise-97160.html
Jeremy Steckman - thanks! It was my first attempt at airbrushing.. It was a lot of fun to do.. I played around with the Riptile colors a little bit for my 300 Blackout deer rifle.
Samuel Collier - Thanks, Samuel! There are only 2 “unique” parts required to build a true “Lefty AR15,” or “left-hand ejecting AR15.” They are: a Lefty Upper Receiver, and a Lefty Bolt Carrier Group (BCG). That’s it, all other parts are normal/standard. The only 2 parts that will make your AR build fully ambidextrous, is an Ambi-Thumb Safety, and Ambi-Charging Handle. Truth be told, swapping out those two Ambi parts on a standard AR15 are all a Southpaw actually requires. The “deflector block” that protrudes behind the ejection port is designed to deflect brass away from your face on a standard AR. However, if you want your build to be a little unique, and you don’t want brass flying in front of your face.. Stag Arms makes a great flat-top Lefty Upper. *note: On a M4-style Lefty Upper Receiver, the Ejection Port Cover swings UP, not downwards like a standard AR. Engraved port covers would display upside down.
Mike Stremlin - Hi, sorry for the late reply.. never got the notice 🤔 Both airbrushes are made by PointZero: PZ-276 Siphon feed for heavy spraying, PZ-360 Gravity feed for sharpshooting. They were sold as a combo with the air compressor off of Amazon.
@Skrily Fn - Thanks! Not bad, considering it was my first time ever using an airbrush, lol. I built this AR from the ground up. It’s a lot of fun to shoot, and it’s very accurate. I have a different red dot on it now, so I may do a follow-up vid soon. Thanks for watching!
Why did you media blast? To remove old paint? Or to better remove dirt, oils etc...? Provide better mechanical adhesion for the paint? All of the above?
Hi- that’s correct.. always degrease first, and THEN do the media blasting. It removes the previous paint/finish, and roughs up the surface in such a way that it gives the paint better adhesion. It also helps to prevent flaking or chipping. (There is almost always some wear that will occur in areas that have a lot of handling or use, but that adds to the charm). If you don’t have access to media blasting equipment, You can always use a 3M Scotch-Brite pad to rough up the surface, as well. It will definitely work, but media blasting will give you the most consistency when roughing up the surfaces.
@Hdrider17 - Thanks! Glad you enjoyed! The vise is just a rudimentary, clamp-on, table-vise from Harbor Freight, by Central Forge. It’s super-compact, and sturdy enough to handle any small/medium tasks. www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-inch-table-swivel-vise-97160.html
I keep watching this video all the time. Did you disassemble the butt stock before you Duracoat it and then assembled it after the base coat. Also did you media blast it or did you scuff it up.
Hi, Jeff- all I really did for this Magpul ACS-L stock was to just remove the black rubber butt-pad before media blasting, and thoroughly degrease it. Oh, you could tap out the roll-pins and springs on the actuating lever and whatnot, but 100% disassembly is not totally necessary. You would just have to make sure you blast plenty of air into the nooks and crannies, and manipulate the mechanism while blasting air in there to get all the granules out of there before painting.
Also- media blasting is recommended, but absolutely NOT required for Duracoating. A cheap, green, 3M Scotch-Brite pad is quite sufficient for roughing up the surface. Media blasting is simply more consistent. 😎
I really appreciate the info, I've done a lot of magazines and ammo boxes. Now I just have to pull the trigger and DuraCoat a AR now. (No pun intended)😅
p99shooter am I able to do this myself? I tried looking on their site but didn’t see this on there. I love tiger stripes but this in itself is awesome!
Christorpher Ellis - Absolutely you can DIY! I picked up a basic airbrushing kit on Amazon (small compressor and 2 airbrushes) for less than $80. Then just buy some Duracoat paint & hardener and some stencils.. If you’re just doing a single color, you can order a “one-off” shake-n-spray bottle. If you want to get fine detail painting (sharpshooting lines) airbrushing is the way to go. This was my first attempt at airbrushing Duracoat paint. I did one in Sunrise Bronze with Shake-n-spray. That one looks super-sweet.
freedomstencils.com Have fun! It’s a really fun pattern to play around with. The colors in THIS Riptile pattern, and the mesh, were included as part of a kit. I also wanted to try something different I also painted a Lefty 300BLK AR15 using woodland colors. GOOD times
Hi, Erik.. no, not at all.. Both airbrushes are made by PointZero: PZ-276 Siphon feed for heavy spraying, PZ-360 Gravity feed for sharpshooting/ fine detail.
Oumar Nicolas - Hello! That is a 7cc gravity-feed airbrush made by PointZero. Excellent for making sharp lines.. I use a very simple air compressor, as well.. PointZero Dual-Action 7cc Gravity-Feed Airbrush 3 Tip Set (.2mm .3mm .5mm) www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNHGG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oohqDb944S3Y1
Superbly well-done...I'm less concerned about whether a part comes FDE or black when it is on special right now. I am building my first AR and trying to build the nicest one possible (direct not gas piston) without breaking the bank. For about a year, I've been collecting parts one at a time when they were on an exceptional discount. Going with Aero Precision Lower, Upper, and Guard...all total for M4E1 w/ 7" guard only $174 + some FFL and shipping! :) By the way, whose handguard is that? I LOVE it! Magnificent rifle, well done!
Thanks, Chris..I appreciate the feedback! The free-float handguard is a Diamondhead VRS-T-556, (13.5"). They are available in 4 different lengths. (8.75", 10.25", 13.5", and 15"). It's quite comfortable. Additional Diamondhead parts that I included are the Polymer back-up sights, and the muzzle comp. It's called the T-Brake 556. I like how all their angles compliment each other.. just wrapping up another Duracoat video I did for my 300Blackout AR15. I'll be posting it soon. Thanks again!
+Chris Lay - Hi, Chris. My Riptile Kit DID include the mesh. I ordered mine (Kit# TID70) from here: www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1172 I'd add on at least a 4oz bottle of Reducer for cleanup and whatnot. You'll burn through it fairly quickly. The mesh isn't listed in the "included items" of this kit, but it came with mine. Feel free to hit me up if you have more questions!
@@hawwwgjaw - this particular swatch of mesh came with a complete paint kit for the Riptile pattern.. but you can always improvise, go to the dollar store and buy a laundry bag. It has a very similar mesh pattern. I saw one dude use a net bag that came with tangerines haha
Gaetano Incandela - Thank you so very much! This basically was only a how-to-Duracoat vid, but I’ve been getting a number of offers, like your’s. It’s very flattering, thanks again.. I can’t do it yet, because I’ll have some legal hoops to jump through, but I may be able to take orders in the not too distant future..I’ll let you know! Where are you at? I’m in Michigan
It’s a method of surface prep. Basically, it uses an air powered spray gun that sprays sand, or aluminum oxide at high-pressure, which removes the original coating, paint, etc. It preps the surface by “roughing up” the surface to help the paint adhere better. It is more uniform than sanding, or using a scotch-bride pad. It is highly recommended, but NOT necessary.
Joshua Mocaby - Thank you. I totally understand. In terms of surface prep, if you’re just “scuffing” the external surfaces with a ScotchBrite pad for example, you can then meticulously tape off the internal areas and keep them black/ original. However, media blasting all surfaces provides the best adhesion. Duracoat applies very thin, and is VERY safe to paint everything.. inside and out.. Even the small holes for the safety switch, hammer/ trigger pins, etc. What you NEVER want to get any paint on, is inside the barrel. You MUST plug/ tape off BOTH ends of the barrel, and tape off the small hole for the gas port.
Oh, I know. I built and painted my own AR15. I started with a coat of high temp primer used on engine blocks. I was very careful to plug and tape off anywhere that could have created a functionality issue. I went with a basic woodland camo motif, but instead of using vinyl cut outs for patterns, I wrapped pieces of my rifle in different diameter twines between coats. It turned out rather well. I wish I could share a pic of it with you.
@@TheOriginalSindini - In terms of the “T - Numbers” in between the picatinny rails, I wasn’t too worried about covering them. This particular AR is streamlined for target shooting. A nice red dot, and some backup sights. Easy-peezy 😎
Thinus Diedericks - Outstanding! Congratulations! Thanks!! I appreciate the positive feedback! Consider subscribing, should be posting more vids soon.. C-YA
This has got to be one of, if not the best AR refinish videos Iv ever seen.
Nothing worse that 20 minutes of how to apply a sticker.
Well done!
👍👍
Dont ask - Thanks! I did two other rifles (just one color) with the Preval Shake-n-spray kit, but this was my very first attempt at airbrushing. It was easier than I thought it’d be! Thanks again!
@@p99shooter thanks bro !!!!!! You rules !!!!!!!!!! Marvellous Amazing paint job !!!!!! It's so realistic effect !!!!!! Really you are a genious !!!!!! Congratulations !!!!!!!
@@p99shooter i suscribe !!!!!!
sickest paint job I've seen so far on an AR. Well done
make shift - Thanks! The finish is holding up VERY well, too. I just took it up to the range again yesterday, and always get compliments..and per usual, what usually draws attention 1st.. is the Diamondhead T-Brake Compensator.. It puts on a real fireworks show..
💥✨💥✨💥 ..haha
I agree with you.
that's sad. lookup atacs-ix
the speed buidling with the cat was the best part. What a good cat to not throw everything to the ground, as they like to do.
HA! Thanks.. That’s Wiley, he’s fascinated by all human tasks. 😆
how can you dislike this master piece?? awesome!!
Thanks!!! I had so much fun with this project. The finish is holding up remarkably well. Also, I have a different optic on it now. Vortex OPMOD Strikefire II, in FDE. Fantastic optic. I appreciate the comment! 👊🏼😎
Beautiful rifle, nice paint job. I really enjoyed how fast you assembled it, wish I was that fast! Thanks for sharing.
Chooch - Thanks! I thought Time-Lapse assembly would look interesting.. Especially my cat, Wiley, whom stopped by to supervise completion.. LOL
Definitely one of the best videos on painting a firearm I’ve seen. Firearm is apart, prepared for paint. Then it’s airbrushed not rattle canned. Very professional. I have a couple ARs I am interested in doing. Thanks for the awesome video.
Clarence Main Jk - Thank you, Sir! Believe it or not, this was my very first attempt at using an airbrush. Just a $60 kit I ordered off of Amazon. For the first rifle I ever did, I used the “one-and-done” Preval sprayer. One color only... I knew if I wanted to do any detailed work, I was going to have to make the leap into airbrushing. Thanks for the compliment! More projects coming soon!
Very nice. Looks great.
Eric Hayes - Thank you, Sir!
so far the best painted AR on the net greetings from Poland. Maciek
Dziękuję bardzo, przyjacielu!
(Thank you very much, my friend!)
Beautiful work & cool cat
john wiles - Haha! Thanks! That’d be Wiley.. He’s such a snoop.. LOL
Wow! Nicely done.
Robert Franklin - Thanks!!
By far one of the best videos on RUclips well put together well described the quality is superior
@ Rick Oshe'a - Thank you so much! This actually was my first “from the ground up” build, and it was also my first attempt at airbrushing. It was a great experience. I may actually do a follow-up video on her soon, as I’ve been running a different red dot on her, and to show how much the finish has improved with time. Thanks, again!
This is completely badass one of the best camo I've ever seen
dantxxl - Thank you so much! I had a lot of fun with this build.. the finish still looks and feels great!
THATS A VERY VERY NICE JOB MAN!!
Ive just done solid colors. Recently took a leap to stencils of digital camo with od, fde, and blk. turned out nice. Now doin a snow multi cam. should be nice. People need to try this project. Its really not to hard
Mike Stremlin - Thanks! Much appreciated👍🏼 .. I too, enjoy the process. I think it’s a great way to personalize your firearm, and a fun exercise in creativity. I’ve got more projects coming soon!
Hella good job.love the pattern inside the riptide.
Thanks! This project was a great learning experience 👊🏼😎
You're the first painter on RUclips I've subscribed to. Watched a couple of your videos and love what I'm seeing so far and gives me ideas so thank you for that. And plus, the music is awesome. I'll actually throw on some HZ/Meditation music when I go to sleep so I really enjoys watching your videos. Keep it up man
WingChunWilly - Thank you so much! I really appreciate the kind words 👍🏼 Good timing on subbing, too..thanks! I literally just finished a brand new Duracoat project today. It is one of the most ambitious projects I’ve ever done, and I think it turned out incredible. I’ll be posting it within the next few days .. clue:🦆
@@p99shooter well I'm definitely looking forward to seeing it.
literally felt like therapy with the music, satisfying to watch. You did a gorgeous job on that gun that is such a sick idea man keep up the good work!
Patrick O'Neil - I truly appreciate the kind words. I am truly humbled 😌.
Thank you so much. 😎👍🏼
It was only my 2nd time working with Duracoat, but my 1st attempt at airbrushing. Almost 3 years later, the finish has only improved.
Come to think of it, I believe you’ve inspired me to do an “update” video on this one.. thanks!
Great work and great video!
RyanKC - Thanks, Ryan! Much appreciated!
Excellent job, it looks awesome.
Thanks! It was my first attempt at airbrushing, and was a great learning experience.. only thing I’ve changed to it now is I have a StrikeFire II up top, in lieu of the Trijicon
Incredible journey. Thank you!!
….Much obliged, Sir!
That is incredible I've got to learn how to build a lefty AR
looks killer! I'm more of a 9" roller kind of guy so i'll leave this to experts like yourself!
B Well - Thanks! Believe it or not, this was my first attempt at airbrushing. It was just a basic kit off of Amazon. It was a lot of fun! Thanks for checking it out, and for the compliment 😎👍🏼
Nice job looks great 👍
brad swan - Thanks, Brad! I really appreciate the comment.. It’s a joy to shoot. One of my personal favs.. It’s almost 2yrs old, and the finish is still improving as it ages.
Beautiful work, sir.
Thank you, Sir!
Wonderfull Painting.
Thanks!
I saw that pattern done by Montactical and really liked it. I liked it SO much that I did a shotgun in that pattern. I used 4 colors instead of 3, but only because I had them on hand. I'm a cheapskate, so I cut my camo patterns out of Frog Tape. It worked just fine (no color bleeding). I get complements on it all of the time. I recommend they hit up the Montactical channel and try some of his schemes out. Yours came out really good. Good job!
Kentucky Justice - Thanks!! And yes, FrogTape would work nicely. I played around with some different colors for my 300BLK. I made a video for that one, too. I primarily wear Realtree Xtra camo during deer season, and tried to use the primary colors found in that pattern.
Great job! I hope to paint mine in the same pattern but with a snow camo scheme. Did you bake between layers of paint? If not, how much air dry time did you allow between coats? Thanks!
Bill Amidon - Thanks, Bill! A Riptile snow scheme would look AWESOME. The colors used on this rifle were from a kit, (Montactical’s original color scheme). I did play around with different colors (woodland-style) for a 300BLK build. (In another video on my channel). In terms of “time between coats,” you should wait about an hour between coats of the same color. When switching to a whole new color in the process, letting the colors cure overnight is best. I didn’t bake between layers, but if waiting overnight isn’t an option, you can speed up “cure time” by baking parts at 200°F for 20 mins, and let them cool down to room temp before proceeding.
p99shooter Thanks! Thats all I needed to know. I'll put the parts under warm halogen work lights over night between coats and bake when all coats have been applied. Thanks again.
Fantastic time-lapse
Thanks!
Don't care much for the paint job,but loved the really nice muzzle brakes on his rifle.really that's what make his gun really standout now!!!!!
Pete Bentley - Thanks, Pete! The Brake and Handguard (as well as the backup sights) are all made by Diamondhead. (Product names are in he description) I think their slanted angles compliment each other beautifully. The Handguard is very comfortable for the off-hand, and the Brake mitigates recoil wonderfully. Diamondhead makes several different lengths for that handguard, and on a pistol-length barrel, the lateral fireballs from this Brake would be impressive..
🔥😎🔥
Awesome job!
Nicholas Jones - Thanks, brother! I’ve got a few projects in progress right now, and will be posting them soon.
Nice job. Looks great.
GSNCLN - Thanks!
Duracoat melts the parts in my siphon feed airbrush. How do you do it?
Wow. I’ve never had a problem with any of my airbrush parts “melting.” Now, you should be mixing the Epoxy Hardener into your paint at a 12:1 ratio. If you are mixing too much hardener into your paint, and don’t clean the sprayer after every session with Duracoat Reducer/ Thinner after you are done painting, the airbrush parts can and will “Sieze up.” When you are done wiping all the parts off with Duracoat Reducer during cleanup, you just need to make sure you wipe off any excess reducer (especially on plastic parts) with a dry cloth when you are done.
Wow ! You did a great job on that 👍👍Unfortunately now you have me thinking I wanna do it to one of mine. Great job great video!
Thanks! You can do this.. This was my very first attempt at airbrushing.. it’s so worth it 🙂
@@p99shooter lol I’m looking up the paint that you used and an airbrush kit as we speak. That was the exact color combo I was looking for.
Absolutely breathaking. You can make some money if you advertise. Especially in south east texas. Do you do orders?
Very nice job sir!
Thank you, Sir!
Awesome job. I see you're using 2 kinds of airbrush pens or is that the same one. If so what airbrush pen would you recommend? I want to try it on my son's S&W M&P 1522 to see how it comes out before I try it on my AR.
+Vladimir Parra -Thanks! They are both made by PointZero. The siphon feed, with the bottle below, will hold more paint. So it worked well for full layers. For sharpshooting, thin lines and whatnot, the gravity feed (with the cup on top) worked very well. It offers the best control. The hardener, when mixed into the Duracoat, can gum up the tips. Keeping 'em clean along the way really helps. Good luck, have fun!!
p99shooter great! Found it on Amazon. Thanks again.
Did you mix hardener with each paint color, or just the first base coat? If so, did you use the same ratio?
Is that a HVLP or airless spray gun? AMAZING video! Thank you...
that looks fantastic dude. so crisp
Thanks!!! It's an absolute joy to shoot, and the Duracoat finish is holding up remarkably well..
Very Nice! This video inspired me to do a paint job. Looks like you used FDE for the 3rd coat. I am getting ready for my first one. Looks like your 1st coat is arctic shadow? I am guessing. What are the first two coats? I would be really grateful if you could share that. I am really loving that paint job.
Thanks, Fred! The base coat I used was Desert Beige. Then sprayed Snow Gray through the mesh to get the scale effect. You don't have to use the same colors, you can mix it up, too!
Fred Stripe I just completed my 300 Blackout using different colors.. check out this one.. enjoy!
ruclips.net/video/cbHYAfckCvo/видео.html
Absolutely Badass !!!!!!!!
1st attempt ever at airbrushing Duracoat! I had a lot of fun with this build. She’s a smooth shooter, too. Very comfortable & accurate.
@@p99shooter you have a special talent hopefully your making $$$ doing this haha
How does duracoat stand up to cerakote? Is the finish as nice and does it have the same amount of integrity?
If applied properly, Duracoat is just as durable as Cerakote, imo..
“Cure time” is the big difference. Duracoat cures via air-drying, and Cerakote cures via baking the painted parts.
Very nice job...🤘🤘🤘
Great video!
bishop2355 - Thanks!! I had so much fun with this build, it’s still running very well..
beautiful paint work,,,, your shop is way too neat!
+Ye Olde Pirate - Thanks, Pirate! And yes, my workbench is WAY too tidy.. haha..
My late Father always stressed to me the importance of maintaining a tidy, organized and well-appointed workbench.. 😎👍🏼
I would say Your Dad "Did Good",,
Ever been surprised by a snake in the wild. Great natural camo like deer, squirl. Maybe urban camo should be blue shades, grey.
Absolutely.. The chosen paint colors in this particular project were included as part of a complete kit by the Riptile Pattern’s creator, James from Montactical. For my next Riptile Camo project, I painted my 300BLK using woodland-style colors more appropriate to the topography of my home state. The great thing about this pattern is being able to play around with the colors to make it your own! And yes, I’ve encountered a rattler in the field. It can be unsettling to the uninitiated. 🐍
NICE JOB!!!!
James Hoover - Thanks, James!
Great looking rifle. Any thoughts or recommendations on what you learned or things you would differently painting your rifle? Tks
+Clyde Wurster - Thanks, Clyde! Absolutely.. for surface prep, you CAN rough up the surfaces with a scotch-brite pad, but media-blasting your parts will give you a MUCH more consistent finish and help the Duracoat adhere better. The colors that I used were pre-selected as part of a Riptile kit, but don't be afraid to choose your OWN colors from Lauer Custom Weaponry that are appropriate for your environment. (About 250 to choose from!) I just posted a video on my channel of my 300 BLK AR15 that I will be using for Michigan Deer Season. I used "Woodland" colors for it, (brown, fde, green, etc.) I did these projects with a $60 Airbrushing kit that I bought off of Amazon. Lastly... Take your time, and don't rush it! An hour between coats is enough, but overnight is MUCH better for cure time. Also, you may get some "tacky" spots from where you peel the stencils. Gently wipe these spots off with some orange "Goo-B-Gone" on a soft cloth. Takes it right off, without removing the paint.. good luck! Let me know how yours turned out!
p99shooter thanks for the reply, great recommendations. can't wait to try doing my ar-10.
+Clyde Wurster You're most welcome, sir. Best of luck on your AR10 project!
That is one of the best I’ve ever seen, I wonder if you do custom orders
I sure do appreciate that, Andrew. I currently have to remain being just a how-to guy for now. Too much red tape with AFT (at this time) to be able to take orders via shipping and whatnot. I’m humbled, though.. thanks again!
Very nice. Looks great. How does the paint hold up againt lube and cleaning?
+Jason Lewis - Thanks! The finish is extremely durable. Water and oils are repelled nicely. I use either Hoppes #9 or CLP for cleaning, and neither of them have had any negative effect on the finish. The only wear in the finish so far, and it is very minor, is from the ejected brass casings hitting the triangular "deflector block" on the upper receiver. But that happens no matter what kind of finish you have on the upper.
Beautiful gun, what hand rail are you using.
Thanks, Jeff! The handguard is a Diamondhead, VRS-T, free-float handguard (13.5”). Muzzle brake & flip-up sights also made by Diamondhead.. Full Parts list in video description 😎👍🏼
Wow bro i like this great job !!!! I wanna painting my guitar with your technics !!!!!!!
@Rodrigo Castro - Interesting idea!
Ironically, I have an old Telecaster I’ve been considering painting this very pattern.. If I do it, I’ll post it here!
@@p99shooter hahahah your guitar with this technics be look so great !!! THINK ; AMAZING TELE REPTILE SKIN GUITAR !!!!!!!!!
@@p99shooter DO IT !!!!!!!!!
Yup you convinced me to do mine 😀 what Vice are you using?
PrometheusDigitaI - That’s great! Good luck! Believe it or not, to maximize space on my bench, this is just a basic, clamp-on vice from Harbor Freight. $20.00. For “basic” firearm repair or builds, it is more than adequate. If I need a more “robust” vice, I’ve got one Bolted on another heavy bench out in the garage.
www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-inch-table-swivel-vise-97160.html
@@p99shooter
Thanks just picked one up on sale 🙂
Great video! What handguard is that?
Thanks! The free-float handguard is the Diamondhead VRS-T (13.5”).
All primary components listed in video description.. Thanks again!
Dude I love this pattern it would work awesome for the grassland at my buddy's farm
Jeremy Steckman - thanks! It was my first attempt at airbrushing.. It was a lot of fun to do.. I played around with the Riptile colors a little bit for my 300 Blackout deer rifle.
Samuel Collier - Thanks, Samuel! There are only 2 “unique” parts required to build a true “Lefty AR15,” or “left-hand ejecting AR15.” They are: a Lefty Upper Receiver, and a Lefty Bolt Carrier Group (BCG). That’s it, all other parts are normal/standard. The only 2 parts that will make your AR build fully ambidextrous, is an Ambi-Thumb Safety, and Ambi-Charging Handle. Truth be told, swapping out those two Ambi parts on a standard AR15 are all a Southpaw actually requires. The “deflector block” that protrudes behind the ejection port is designed to deflect brass away from your face on a standard AR. However, if you want your build to be a little unique, and you don’t want brass flying in front of your face.. Stag Arms makes a great flat-top Lefty Upper. *note: On a M4-style Lefty Upper Receiver, the Ejection Port Cover swings UP, not downwards like a standard AR. Engraved port covers would display upside down.
Great video I'm gonna subscribe
Special thanks to my friend Jim @ C&J Guns, Fraser, MI for helping me with the media blasting of the parts!
what air brush did you use for that project? I like how you got fine tuned with the black outlines. Thanks
Mike Stremlin - Hi, sorry for the late reply.. never got the notice 🤔
Both airbrushes are made by PointZero: PZ-276 Siphon feed for heavy spraying, PZ-360 Gravity feed for sharpshooting. They were sold as a combo with the air compressor off of Amazon.
Best job I have ever seen in my life would you be interested to do mine
Very sick man !
@Skrily Fn - Thanks! Not bad, considering it was my first time ever using an airbrush, lol. I built this AR from the ground up. It’s a lot of fun to shoot, and it’s very accurate. I have a different red dot on it now, so I may do a follow-up vid soon. Thanks for watching!
p99shooter Awesome! Glad to hear! That’s impressive. You did a great job. Have fun with it
Why did you media blast? To remove old paint? Or to better remove dirt, oils etc...? Provide better mechanical adhesion for the paint? All of the above?
Hi- that’s correct.. always degrease first, and THEN do the media blasting. It removes the previous paint/finish, and roughs up the surface in such a way that it gives the paint better adhesion. It also helps to prevent flaking or chipping. (There is almost always some wear that will occur in areas that have a lot of handling or use, but that adds to the charm). If you don’t have access to media blasting equipment, You can always use a 3M Scotch-Brite pad to rough up the surface, as well. It will definitely work, but media blasting will give you the most consistency when roughing up the surfaces.
p99 - that is a sick paint job, very nicely done! What make and model vice is that you have mounted to your bench?
@Hdrider17 - Thanks! Glad you enjoyed! The vise is just a rudimentary, clamp-on, table-vise from Harbor Freight, by Central Forge. It’s super-compact, and sturdy enough to handle any small/medium tasks.
www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-inch-table-swivel-vise-97160.html
I keep watching this video all the time. Did you disassemble the butt stock before you Duracoat it and then assembled it after the base coat. Also did you media blast it or did you scuff it up.
Hi, Jeff- all I really did for this Magpul ACS-L stock was to just remove the black rubber butt-pad before media blasting, and thoroughly degrease it. Oh, you could tap out the roll-pins and springs on the actuating lever and whatnot, but 100% disassembly is not totally necessary. You would just have to make sure you blast plenty of air into the nooks and crannies, and manipulate the mechanism while blasting air in there to get all the granules out of there before painting.
Also- media blasting is recommended, but absolutely NOT required for Duracoating. A cheap, green, 3M Scotch-Brite pad is quite sufficient for roughing up the surface. Media blasting is simply more consistent. 😎
I really appreciate the info, I've done a lot of magazines and ammo boxes. Now I just have to pull the trigger and DuraCoat a AR now. (No pun intended)😅
That's awesome! I want a lefty in this pattern too.
This is too awesome!!
Christorpher Ellis - Thank you for the compliment! It was a super-fun project, finish is still fantastic 👍🏽
p99shooter am I able to do this myself? I tried looking on their site but didn’t see this on there. I love tiger stripes but this in itself is awesome!
Christorpher Ellis - Absolutely you can DIY! I picked up a basic airbrushing kit on Amazon (small compressor and 2 airbrushes) for less than $80. Then just buy some Duracoat paint & hardener and some stencils.. If you’re just doing a single color, you can order a “one-off” shake-n-spray bottle. If you want to get fine detail painting (sharpshooting lines) airbrushing is the way to go. This was my first attempt at airbrushing Duracoat paint. I did one in Sunrise Bronze with Shake-n-spray. That one looks super-sweet.
thats the best i have seen yet, great job
+GSTONE - Thanks!
Really like it . Going to try same thing on mine could u send link on stencils
freedomstencils.com
Have fun! It’s a really fun pattern to play around with. The colors in THIS Riptile pattern, and the mesh, were included as part of a kit. I also wanted to try something different I also painted a Lefty 300BLK AR15 using woodland colors. GOOD times
Would you mind sharing what gun you used to lay down the base coat?
Hi, Erik.. no, not at all..
Both airbrushes are made by PointZero: PZ-276 Siphon feed for heavy spraying, PZ-360 Gravity feed for sharpshooting/ fine detail.
Man that turned out great... good vid
CSA Rebel - Thanks! Much appreciated 😎👍🏼
Building an AR from the ground up is a great experience.
Greetings p99shooter, what is that silver device that you use for "outlining" stencils at this moment 3:53 ?
Oumar Nicolas - Hello! That is a 7cc gravity-feed airbrush made by PointZero. Excellent for making sharp lines.. I use a very simple air compressor, as well..
PointZero Dual-Action 7cc Gravity-Feed Airbrush 3 Tip Set (.2mm .3mm .5mm) www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNHGG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oohqDb944S3Y1
@@p99shooter Hello and thanks you for the infos.
Great vid - music - cat!
Erik Hafer - Thanks, Erik! And Wiley the Cat thanks you, too.. haha
wow,... that looks great...greetings from germany
habs gleich - Vielen Dank mein Freund! Grüße aus Michigan USA
Where do you get the stencil kits from?
Kaptain Kash -
www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/montactical-peel-n-spray-template
Superbly well-done...I'm less concerned about whether a part comes FDE or black when it is on special right now. I am building my first AR and trying to build the nicest one possible (direct not gas piston) without breaking the bank. For about a year, I've been collecting parts one at a time when they were on an exceptional discount. Going with Aero Precision Lower, Upper, and Guard...all total for M4E1 w/ 7" guard only $174 + some FFL and shipping! :) By the way, whose handguard is that? I LOVE it! Magnificent rifle, well done!
Thanks, Chris..I appreciate the feedback! The free-float handguard is a Diamondhead VRS-T-556, (13.5"). They are available in 4 different lengths. (8.75", 10.25", 13.5", and 15"). It's quite comfortable. Additional Diamondhead parts that I included are the Polymer back-up sights, and the muzzle comp. It's called the T-Brake 556. I like how all their angles compliment each other.. just wrapping up another Duracoat video I did for my 300Blackout AR15. I'll be posting it soon. Thanks again!
wow that looks amazing
Admir Suljic Thanks! It's tedious, but a lot of fun 😎👍🏼
Well damn! Nice work
Where did you order the riptile Camo kit? And was the mesh included?
+Chris Lay - Hi, Chris. My Riptile Kit DID include the mesh. I ordered mine (Kit# TID70) from here: www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1172
I'd add on at least a 4oz bottle of Reducer for cleanup and whatnot. You'll burn through it fairly quickly.
The mesh isn't listed in the "included items" of this kit, but it came with mine. Feel free to hit me up if you have more questions!
p99shooter sweet, thanks for the reply. Looks great by the way!!
Also @ freedomstencils.com or montactical.com
that is super cool. Nice rifle, good vid.
+dkroll92 - Thanks!
Chingona 👌
¡Gracias! ¡Feliz Año Nuevo!
Feliz año 2024
Amazing!
Flat Matrix - Thank you very much!
Very nice! Would you consider be commissioned to do a BMX bike Fram and fork Exactly the same?
That’s an interesting idea!
I would pay you well shipping and all.
Master piece
luke mcclellan - Thanks! Much obliged, sir..
Nice
Oscar Garcia - Much appreciated!
Ive been searching for a mesh like that. Where can i get that at?
@@hawwwgjaw - this particular swatch of mesh came with a complete paint kit for the Riptile pattern.. but you can always improvise, go to the dollar store and buy a laundry bag. It has a very similar mesh pattern. I saw one dude use a net bag that came with tangerines haha
No voice.. so relaxing
Rob - ‘Much appreciated! Thanks, Rob 🇺🇸
Thank u sir
You’re very welcome!
It was my very first attempt at airbrushing. It was a great learning experience
awesome
Alex - Thanks, brother!
amazing
Thanks, Arthur!
What is that spray thing called?
Jørgen Egeskow-Gjerka - It’s called an AirBrush. My AirBrushes are made by Point Zero.
Mmm wow
badass
Thanks!
This is the best AR 15 I have ever seen in my life would you do mine
Gaetano Incandela - Thank you so very much! This basically was only a how-to-Duracoat vid, but I’ve been getting a number of offers, like your’s. It’s very flattering, thanks again.. I can’t do it yet, because I’ll have some legal hoops to jump through, but I may be able to take orders in the not too distant future..I’ll let you know!
Where are you at? I’m in Michigan
media blast?
It’s a method of surface prep. Basically, it uses an air powered spray gun that sprays sand, or aluminum oxide at high-pressure, which removes the original coating, paint, etc. It preps the surface by “roughing up” the surface to help the paint adhere better. It is more uniform than sanding, or using a scotch-bride pad. It is highly recommended, but NOT necessary.
savage!!!
DC scooters - Thanks!
Looks great, but I cringed when you coated the internals.
Joshua Mocaby - Thank you. I totally understand. In terms of surface prep, if you’re just “scuffing” the external surfaces with a ScotchBrite pad for example, you can then meticulously tape off the internal areas and keep them black/ original. However, media blasting all surfaces provides the best adhesion. Duracoat applies very thin, and is VERY safe to paint everything.. inside and out.. Even the small holes for the safety switch, hammer/ trigger pins, etc. What you NEVER want to get any paint on, is inside the barrel. You MUST plug/ tape off BOTH ends of the barrel, and tape off the small hole for the gas port.
Oh, I know. I built and painted my own AR15. I started with a coat of high temp primer used on engine blocks. I was very careful to plug and tape off anywhere that could have created a functionality issue. I went with a basic woodland camo motif, but instead of using vinyl cut outs for patterns, I wrapped pieces of my rifle in different diameter twines between coats. It turned out rather well. I wish I could share a pic of it with you.
siiiiick!!!!🔫
Jay Uribe Thanks, Jay! More vids to come soon..
While I wouldn't do this to a real firearm because I would probably fuck it up, I'm gonna do this to some of my air rifles
Fucking epic 👍🏼 Great Job
Brandon FFA - Thanks! 🤜🏼💥🤛🏼
On the rail... can't paint the numbers!!
Of course ya can do what ever 😅
😂👍🏼 Well, Duracoat is applied in pretty thin coats, so if there are any stamped letters or numbers, they’re still legible..
@@TheOriginalSindini - In terms of the “T - Numbers” in between the picatinny rails, I wasn’t too worried about covering them. This particular AR is streamlined for target shooting. A nice red dot, and some backup sights. Easy-peezy 😎
Hey I'm lucky number 10 000 viewer!! LOL :-) Great work!!
Thinus Diedericks - Outstanding! Congratulations! Thanks!! I appreciate the positive feedback! Consider subscribing, should be posting more vids soon.. C-YA
I'm in love
Mgtow Life - that’s very kind! Thanks!
Do you have contact info? I am interested in getting some work done.
That music....
“Passing Time” by Kevin McLeod 🙂 Title fit the project, I was thinkin’..