1cc Diesel Model Engine Re-Conversion
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Patreon - / jellyfishmachine
I initially made this engine as a diesel, and ended up converting it to glow fuel. In this video i converted it back to diesel, mostly just for fun!
Some of the tools and supplies I use:
These are Amazon Affiliate links and i will recieve a small share of any purchases.
Sherline Lathe - amzn.to/4cnme7Y
Sherline Mill - amzn.to/4eVRay6
Hand Tools:
Diamond Sharpening Stone - amzn.to/3xFinnI
Files - amzn.to/3ziPSg4
Watchmaker's Screwdrivers - amzn.to/4eKxfSw
Dumont Straight Tweezers - amzn.to/45QGXPo
Dumont Curved Tweezers - amzn.to/3VP45ZM
Magnifier Loupe - amzn.to/3RRvMjr
Jewelers Saw - amzn.to/45TWAFK
Saw Blades - amzn.to/4byOIuA (1/0 - 3/0 for this type of work))
Precision Tools:
Steel Rule - amzn.to/3Y41jmr
Dial Calipers - amzn.to/4bt2O0a
Dial Indicator - amzn.to/3Wf3G4x
Indicator Base - amzn.to/3zm0fjj
V-Blocks - amzn.to/3VKuPun
Odds And Ends:
Anodizing Dye - amzn.to/45IUMzj
Loctite Retaining Compound - amzn.to/3XGpy9W
Oil Bottles - amzn.to/4bpYI9a
Editing Rig:
Computer - amzn.to/3zpG9Vs
Monitor - amzn.to/4cz7iUa
Headphones - amzn.to/4eMtgFe
Some Very Useful Books:
Watchmaking - amzn.to/4cz6bns
Toolmaking - amzn.to/3XN59jG
Clock Repair - amzn.to/4clBe6B
Autobiography of a Superhuman - amzn.to/3VTDR8K
Practical Watch Escapement - amzn.to/3RNNXGR
I love diesels build them most of the time but the small ones like more ether about 35 percent and about 2 percent nitrate I think it will start easier and run smoother Thanks for posting and keep up the good work
Yep, the stuff we sell for this size/type of engine is 35% kerosene, 35% ether, 28% castor oil & 2% Isopropyl Nitrate. Best to use proper 1st press castor, not the red Klotz stuff.
35% ether is better for small diesels. The compression screw ius actually adjusting the ignition timing, so if you keep that in mind it's obvious what the effects will be.
You have a low powered, piston ported engine, they are not good for high power, but run equally well in both directions as the timing is symmetrical, which can be advantageous for "pusher" applications.
I used to race diesels, so got pretty familiar with them. Get it right and they are instant starters hot or cold.
Redeemed! Very good work. Before he passed away a good friend of mine designed a diesel helicopter.
It was nice to see, thank you!
THEN, I had no idea about it, but I used to have a motor like that,
(Diezel) what a disaster!
later also had a COX engine with a plastic line-controlled spitfire,
it turned better (I was still young and found it very exciting!)
later when I was/was financially stronger with an Osmax 4.07CC balsa airplane (construction kit) and ROBBE RC control
a lot of LOL!
(I hardly have the time for it now!) Too many hobbies, too little time!
(Besides, I only have granddaughters)
Healthy and Friendly Greetings from the Netherlands!
Rob
(By the way, I forgot to say, it's very good that you can make this, hats off and respect!)
My 'penny worth' for for what for what it's worth. (I'm sure you know this already). Years ago when I flew model planes the general consensus was that the needle valve thread needs to be a super fine pitch, this gave a more precise control of the fuel mixture ratio....
Very interesting. You control the engine speed primarily by adjusting the size of the combustion chamber. It's brilliant!
I was out over the past week with some guys that were flying small diesels in some Tomboy vintage design models. I flew a lot of my own diesels back in my youth and remember the stink more than the fun.... Although diesel combat WAS fun.... But these guys were using a new formula that replaced the big diesel truck kero with odorless paraffin lamp fuel. Sometimes also sold as "odorless kerosene" I believe. This was a night and day difference in the smell of the exhaust and the stink of the exhaust oil. It also converted me and the 1cc PAW I have is now not going to be sold.
I don't know where you got your recipe but you're a bit shy on ether for the small engines. You want more like 30% ether, 25 to 28% castor oil, and the rest this no odor paraffin. And we can get a boost by using big truck diesel ignition improver which can be found at the big truck stop fuel stations. The guys with this new odorless formula are using 3% in their mix. They are also only mixing about 100cc at a time which lasts a good day of many flights with the small engines. This fuel made the engines easy to start and pretty easy to tune. If you try it I don't think you'll be dissapointed.
In the run I could tell when you went overcompressed. It showed up with the slightly harsher exhaust note which stayed until it started to overheat the engine and it would sag off. Which you fixed by backing the compression off.
I would also suggest that your contra piston is a little loose. I've never had an engine yet of any size where I could push the contro piston in with finger pressure. I'd suggest making a new one which needs light taps from a small brass hammer or brass bumper to seat it. It's a fine touch though on this small stuff to get a fit where the firing will bump it back up and where you need the screw to push it back down. But the fit you have I would suggest is too loose even for a1cc engine.
I hope you give that paraffin style low odor fuel a try. After what I saw and DIDN'T smell this past week I'm going to give diesels a second chance.
It looks to be over propped. Revs should be higher for more efficiency. Amazing talent. I used to use 1% Amyl Nitrate in the fuel.
You do great machine work, good job!
Nice work... Brings back good memories of flying control line planes with baby bee motors as a teenager. I don't think the school sport field maintenance guy was very happy as the fuel destroyed the paint on his table, and left dead patches on his pristine cricket pitch where we started them up. Lots of priming by squirting fuel into the exhaust ports was our probably misguided approach.
Звук дизеля, как бальзам на душу. Превосходная работа
…love the finger…takes me back 50 years and diesel engines with my friends…
you'll like the next video, lots of finger flipping and a very stubborn engine!
It's odd that it doesn't want to break into that sort of "burp... burp.... burp" style of running that other diesels like. I do agree though. I ran a bunch of diesels back in my teens. And the stink from the burnt fuel is very real. Even to requiring a long soak in the tub or multiple washings to remove the smell from my skin. Your glow version is a lot more user friendly in that regard.
Nah it smells good
Idk why people call me weird
Glow fuel is toxic and gives me headaches. Model diesel fuel less so. If you substitute white spirit (in the USA aka mineral spirit) for the paraffinic fuel base (typically house grade kerosene) the odour problem with model diesel fuel is eliminated.
A better fuel recipe for small diesels is 35% di-ethyl ether (John Deere premium starting fluid typical) 35% paraffinic fuel base (kerosene typical) and 30% lubricant grade castor oil (i.e. Klotz Benol).
Да то выхлопа у меня тоже головная боль..от горелой касторки ..
that sounds so awesome
Замечательная работа в стиле ретро поршневой впуск .
Great engineering work. I enjoyed the video. You are a skilled craftsman. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing:
~25 years ago I was flying U-control 1/2A with 3 up combat with a super simple basically indestructible home brew planes with 049 black widow motors. My third black widow motor I got was a dud, would barely get 14K rpm, where my other two 049's was in the 18K rpm range with 10% nitro thimble drone 5" prop.
Troubleshooting the dud, a friend showed me how to lap sand the case at the carb/tank mount (1500 grit sandpaper put on glass and sprayed with wd40 and sanded in a figure 8 pattern), it knocks off the bulge of the 4 course carb/tank mounting screws (a black sharpie put on before the sanding will show the progress). This did not seem to help the dud motor,,,,but I got an idea.
Why not try it on where the cylinder screws in (effectively changing the timing). I passed my idea by a buddy that road raced the two stroke Yamaha RD400 (and was a auto/diesel mechanic), he said I should raise the exhaust ports (so not remove material, but add to it), so I made a 0.010" base gasket, this made it a super dud motor, lol.
To scientifically gauge what I was about to attempt I measured the height of where the cylinder screws in to the case (see picture of the red lines where I measured - from case to where cylinder screws in), I call this deck height, my normal two good motors was 78 thou (0.078"), the dud was 84 thou, instantly a big grin appeared. With the precision these cox motors are built to, wth was going on with this spec, 0.006" too tall.
I started by taking 5 thou off (glass/sandpaper/wd40, same as I mentioned above) and retesting, result was better, another 5 thou, even better, another 5 thou and was getting hard to start. Then I thought why it was hard to start, hmmm, way to much compression, perfect, the head gaskets were 5 thou, I can compensate with head gaskets, so for every 5 thou I removed from the deck, I added 1 more head gasket.
After continuing this process a few more times (I went down to 53 thou from 84), it turns out, 15 thou off the good motor (was 78 thou, now reduced to ~63 thou with 4 head gaskets (1 original +3)) was the best.
Results are with 10% nitro, Thimble Drone 5x4 balanced prop and plastic reed valve.
Bone stock good motor with 78 thou deck height = 17-18K rpm,
Bone stock dud motor with 84 thou deck height = 14K rpm,
Best was reducing to ~63 thou deck height (on all motors), with a total of 4 head gaskets, 25Krpm and one hit 26Krpm. A gain of 7K rpm!
For pictures and discussion, google search
coxengineforum black widow tuning
Awesome! My first R/C airplane had a Black Widow on it! raising the cylinder was one of the things that got my first weaver running right, the original transfer port timing is very short, so i raised the cylinder with a cardboard gasket and bam, it started right up and ran nicely. that tipped me off to investigate the transfer porting and that's where i came up with my variant of the ports.
Thanks for the nice story!
Not bad for scratch built, pretty cool if you ask me
I like this small Diesel engine, phantastic 🙂
can you also do some testes like thrust and torque?
amazing video btw, Thank you!
You should build a giant one now lol
What would be very cool would be if he made two of them and made a model airplane to scale and it actually flew because the engine was running okay. It wasn’t perfect but it was good enough to give it a shot😊
ruclips.net/video/GQIDPjnC3nI/видео.html
i'm working on a little more powerful version so it should fly a little better
I wonder how you can make this job without cnc machine...it is so precise and at the end it works perfectly...my lathe ( a PD 400 proxxon) should be arrived by the end of the month, I wish I 'll be able to do a new Cipolla Junior 1,5 cc motor crankshaft, which I lost in flight many years ago...Was my first glow engine when I was a child...I'll show you the pictures, maybe if you can give me some advice how to do it, I would really appreciate it
The real trick is breaking everything down into individual features, and work through it step by each. Have a browse around Home Model Engine Machinist, it's not specific to this type of engine but theres is a wealth of great information.
www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/
After it warms up and you've maxed out your compression could you slowly switch to actual diesel fuel? If so that could make a really good little off grid generator
Nice little diesel motor
I have of one of these I found it when I was a out six itbelonged to my uncle I just turned 60 and I still have it..
That is cool. I dont know why i love half a but i do.
That little thing is a diesel? And I thought the GY6 was underspoken.
Bro how it started without spark plug 😮
Very nice work sir
I don’t understand how these can run without a any kind of glow plug
Diesel is always the answer
awesome
Do you have any videos of the motors in use on a plane?
I guess I could have checked before asking...😊
Yes i do - ruclips.net/video/GQIDPjnC3nI/видео.html
I'm working on a twin cylinder version, it's a little underpowered.
I'd love to know how many h/p that little thing is??
UPDATE:... lol. I had to try to figure it out, and by what I could find online it's about - 0.0625-h/p.
(Approx. 16cc to one h/p, ... decimal representation of 1/16th is 0.0625)
Certainly not many!
have you tried building a rotary engine?
Великолепная работа!
Could this engine run all day?
Лучше за винтом находиться при настройке. Бывает винты разрывает - травмы тогда серьезные.
Да не то что бы разрывает, рука может непроизвольно дёрнулся и сам в винт влезешь. Такое даже чаще бывает
Onde eu consigo um desse????
Love the channel. Hopefully you still have all your fingers please try to get into the habit of not priming the motor with the igniter on the glow plug.
That so cool 😊
Price
Bravo
HI buddy never work over the prop cheers
hola que planos usaste para el motor
Great! What kind of mix do you use?
25% ether, 25% oil, the balance kerosene
@@JellyFishMachine thank you
A bit too much kerosene in the mix me thinks
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
🇮🇩🎀👍👍👍🎀🇮🇩🙏
Can i buy your product?
no, sorry. the time it takes to make one would drive the price way outside of reason.
Sir, have the good sense to run that engine in. Put another way, stop treating it as though it is already run in. It is not & it will require a good half hour of rich running on a weak pitch propeller to keep the load off it.
this one's got a few hours running on it, i finished it in january.
cant beat the smell of diesel
gasoline